Warning: How to Fix A Sagging Beam
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 มิ.ย. 2024
- Fixing an under designed structural beam by adding LVL. Framing and carpentry skills needed to straighten the LVL, remove hangers, cut back the joists, add LVL, and the best tools for the job.
To be clear, this beam was not failing, it was not the engineer's fault. This design was submitted "prescriptively" and this beam was under designed by the draftsman and no one caught it. Now, its fixed.
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0:00 Don't Do this
0:31 Why is the Beam Sagging?
1:23 Who's Responsible?
3:42 Why'd This Happen?
4:11 The Wrong Way to Jack a Beam
8:09 The Right Way to Jack a Beam
16:53 Plumbing is in the Way!
19:45 Adding LVL Step by Step
21:16 Temp Wall
21:45 Surgical Removal of Joist Hangers www.diablotools.com/products/...
22:58 Cutting Back the Joists
24:31 Proper Fastener Location Strong Tie SDWS Timber Screw
25:48 Adding Roseburg LVL www.roseburg.com/engineered-w...
27:52 How to Fasten LVL
28:45 Reinstall Hangers
29:57 Removing the Column
31:50 Cleanup
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Oh and another takeaway, if you use a drone for commercial work, you need to be part107 certified. Commercial work includes social media like TH-cam if you plan to make an income off of that. I watched a video about this last May and then purchased the Part 107 Course sso.teachable.com/secure/2458... I studied and learned for 1 month and then took my test. I scored a 95%, which is a testament to how good Greg and the crew over there teach. That link will save you $100 off the course and support this channel.
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Retired builder and remodeler here for thirty years. You did the right thing by stepping up when you didn't have to. By the time you spend all the time, money, and possibly attorneys avoiding the fix, you're better off just fixing and keeping your reputation intact.
Had a similar scenario where I removed the siding and trim and bolted a 3/4 length 1/2" steel plate direct to outside of beam using a engineering formula I had to research myself to give to the project engineer. Whole lot better then removing hangers and trying to wedge in a strengthener. We planned on Rim trimming when we were done, but the owner liked the primer painted plate and bolts so we decorative cut the ends of the steel plate and painted it. Looked like it was intentional from the start which is always a goal.
Flitch plates are very handy when you don’t want the hassle of an I beam.
This is how a good business should operate, outstanding
Little bit of generosity goes along way Tim. Your company just got stronger.
I wish I could say I've never had a jack kick out. Even though I knew nobody got hurt, I tensed up watching the guys cranking on the jacks (well, only the first five time I saw it). Good job (and smart business) to take care of an issue outside normal warranty parameters. We all make mistakes, not everybody fixes them. Also, did my heart good seeing one of the crew going over the driveway with the magnet. If you'd spent several thousand dollars fixing the beam but the owner got a flat tire, that's the story he'd tell everyone who would listen.
Dog stepping on a nail is the one that got me. In my defense, I informed her not to let the dogs out back that night because we hadn't done a thorough job of clearing the yard of debris, but she put them out. I never put it in writing and I didn't block her door, so my insurance just ate it.
I'm sure she tells anyone who will listen about her dog having to go to the vet because of a nail in the foot.
Quick tip that I learned from our concrete guy while remodeling a flip house: Set the post on the flat surface (garage floor) and put your bottle jack ON TOP of the post. The post becomes a wide safe base for the bottle jack and all the action is happening up top. Far less likely to slip out like that. Edit: Just realized that you figured that out later in the video. thanks for this upload yall!
Can also nail on a skirt that will encase the jack and prevent it from kicking out. It's dangerous to jack something up when the jacks and posts aren't plumb and the mating surfaces flat.
Another tip is to nail the post on at the top. You add a scrap of lumber to nail it to.
Let's see now... you have been in business for a long time. You do the right thing even when you don't have to... you have been in business for a long time... I wonder if there is a connection there? Thanks for another video. By the way, that is a beautiful house you built.
Nope those two facts cannot be related to each other 🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@AwesomeFramersYes, plenty of production builders that build crap day after day and have been in business for a LONG time as well. The difference is that your clients will hire you again and might even invite you to little Jimmy's graduation party.
That made me think of a different story, about getting the contracts.
Contractor: Why do you always offer the contract to us? Our rates at 50% higher than our competitors.
Customer: Yes, but they need twice as many hours....
20 ft span...full kitchen... ext wall w/floor / 2 stories , wall above/rafter load..granite kitchen counter..
USE STEEL...ADD A SAFETY /OVER LOAD FACTOR...?
Flitch , angle......OR a steel post alternstive
Not a builder or engineer, but that sure makes sense to use a steel structure in key parts of the structure.
meal or wood, it doesn't really matter so long as it engineered properly. metal I beams can have more deflection at times than a thick paralams.
I disagree somewhat that it shouldn't fall on the engineer on record. It is his responsibility to double check the architectural design and ensure that it will work with the point loads that are there. But it is a little bit on the architect as well. It shouldn't however be on your company Tim. As a contractor too, as long as we build according to the plan, we can't know what beams will be sufficient in place. This is why we need to be sure to build exactly to the drawings so it doesn't fall back on us..... I do like your videos and content and the way you execute them!! Keep em' coming, CHEERS!
When that registered engineer signs the docs he/she acquires structural integrity.
No engineer was involved until now. The plan was submitted "prescriptive"
No engineer made a mistake. As I stated in the video, the draftsman undersized the beam and no one caught it.
@@AwesomeFramers It's not really the plan reviewers responsibility to catch engineering mistakes. Sometimes they do, but if they don't it's not their obligation. Draftsman have no responsibility at all for sizing members. The owner/builder probably didn't specify engineering design criteria and code minimums are laughable and this beam probably meets those anyway. I am a structural eningieer and a contractor and I don't do the engineering on my own projects because there is so little money involved with having someone else do it. I do specify performance and review their calcs, but I am not the engineer of record on our projects. Curious if this fix was engineered and "wet stamped"?
@@AwesomeFramers A draftsman is not an engineer. Are you saying you didn't have an engineer? If you did, it's still his responsibility.
I rented screw jacks, very safe & lots of control over jacking speed & height. Two days for your crew, engineering, materials plus a bunch of figuring on your part. Not a small repair for a home owner. Good on you for making it right 👍
Screw jacks are the only simple , safe and effective method.
I own a pair use them every couple of years , well worth it.
Been there done that. Use the right tool for the job.
Spread the money loaded costs or go figure
I dont care if you are responsible to fix it,, the fact that you did regardless of this shows integrity. Thats worth more than $$$
Excellent work and act of integrity sharing a mistake, lesson learned and the final repair.
Where is the integrity here ? He made a movie out of this to promote his company and made a buck off of TH-cam
@@andreycham4797those aren’t mutually exclusive. Integrity is technically defined as “the quality of being honest and having strong moral principles.” Fixing an issue that he isn’t required to fix legally (that’s the moral principles in case you missed it) and admitting that he and his company made mistakes in missing the proper sizing of the beam and fixing it at his expense IS a sign of integrity. Posting on TH-cam “to make a buck” has zero to do with it and is an example of being honest about making the mistake. So it’s integrity times two.
@@andreycham4797 you get pennies from YT for videos...LOL
This video came across my feed and was the first of yours that i have watched.
Several observations:
1. Awesome humor
2. Committed to quality work
3. More committed to excellent reputation
4. Not a finger pointer, passing blame (seem willing to own mistakes and/or absorb blame even if not your personal mistake)
5. That's all about good character
Wish you were in Arkansas. You would be my go to.
Thanks
Well said. Also my first recommendation to this channel, that I know of. Liked and subscribed.
@shepgre awesome review I must admit. I have been in the construction business for 35 years and I am all of what you stated. They were in except for number 4 I find it very difficult too withhold the blame when it is somebody else's fault. I find it very difficult to retire now that I have turned sixty four I am still turning tricks for my customers. Although I do believe I am going to finally dissolve benji's custom home improvements company as I haveffectively began handicap ramps and rails incorporate.. I just wish I could get these people to pay me what i'm worth.
Man I wish I'd known about you when we started our build. Huge integrity. I will definitely send anyone that's looking your way.
I've spent 10 yrs repairing, rebuilding, restructuring, lifting leveling squaring up my 100 yr old historic home. I also used to do building moving rigging etc with mobile offices and buildings.
Next time, build concrete block piers and use 20ton jacks with white oak load spreaders. Way easier and safer to manage for lifting, and I've iut 10 beams in my home using this method
Your videos are always very knowledgeable and fun to watch ! Keep up the great work!
Bought two from Amazon, always buy local 😂. Love the humor!
Amazon is based in Washington, so he did technically buy local 😂
@@scooter9023 I know, that’s why I find it so funny.
Warehouse distribution center is probably local?
Blown away that you guys went back and fixed that! In the UK you’d get one phone call to the builder and you’d never hear back from them… EVER!
UK doesn't exist.
It's called Islamabad
This shows how much integrity you have! You did the right thing even though you didnt have too. It was a simple fix and didnt put you out much. Good job as always.
Youd be surprised how many builders would just walk and block the homeowners number.
You guys are awesome taking your responsibility further than required.
good for you guys
just framed a garage with a remodel on a 3 story house with 2 huge beams in the garage supporting a corner 20ft each way on sandy soil on beach in so cal
throughout my time as a builder and remodeler Ive had to fix quite a few things some my fault others not.....its just good business practice
Snap a line at x on beam then install a string at ends with a mark below snapped line at y=end goal distance.
Was just thinking you should slot the pipes out, and then you did exactly that. This was fun to watch. Thanks for sharing, warts and all.
Depends on the business law incorporated. If it's not required by law, the no you're not liable. But, as a builder, we do want our stamp on projects to continue being a positive image. These are non-tangible brand assets associated. Contract's with warranties inform the buyer of if things arise. Outside of it, one may not be required by law, but overall product quality vs lawsuits and other factors, it would be simpler to fix anything that may arise, due to our engineerings. "Always Buy Local" Great work guys 👏🏾🔨
I thought you were going to leave central support! -- OMG you guys went to town on this ! Thank God for Rain.
I wonder about the thought process of the different parties involved here. Do I have it right that the 3/4" deflection is not a structural issue, the beam is strong enough, as is?
First, I'm amazed an inspector noticed it and I'd be curious as to how he wrote it up. Somewhere between "slight deflection in beam, within tolerances" and "Dangerous sagging in beam, potential failure"
Second: How did the homeowner understand what the inspector wrote? I've had homeowners very concerned that a 1/8" check in a 6x6 column was going to cause a catastrophe.
I wonder if the homeowner understood that it's not a structural issue.
Was there any damage to the interior finishes above from the movement? When that jack kicked out that was my first thought.
Great questions. Beam was at its limit when checked by our engineer this month (he is not the EOR for this project). The owner as having some remodeling done and THAT inspector noticed the sag. Owner reached out to us, I drove over there, took some measurements and got our engineer involved.
The mentioned pivot point’ issue. I’m old Sokol here.take it for what it is or isn’t.all the jobs I had to do similar work. I use the large screw jacks. The face is around 5” compared to a hydraulic jack with a 1 1/2” face of the jack piston. I also use a piece of sheet steel to distribute that downward pressure over a larger square ft area. Great video and process of analysis. Thank you for sharing.
8:08 Every carpenter I know has had this happen at some point.
Not-so-pro tip...use an adjustable steel jack post as a progress capture.
You guys are the best
Whew
Technicaly perfect... A great meet for the head of the team ... Great job ... !!!
Tim it shows that your company too include your great brother are men that treat others as you would like to be treated ! Just really impressed you guys took the high road ! Not surprised! But impressed !
It all falls on the engineers' shoulders. They are the one's who hold the responsibility.. That's exactly why nothing can be done without the engineers stamp of approval. His only job is to check the specs of situations like this and be sure that it's not under built.. Now usually LVL's in cases like this, are required to be glued and screwed together at a specific interval, (such as 4 screws high spaced every 8 inches, etc.); which should be listed in the detailed blueprints. And if it's not there, you should always double check with the engineer or at the very least, check with the lumber yard as to recommended spans... You guys may have just installed it wrong; sometimes it actually calls for lag bolts. But again, the engineer should have specified. Whenever I had questionable spans like this, I always got something in writing from the engineer.. even if just a text message.. I always made sure to know exactly what was called for and how it should be installed; and typically we would just over build it. So it called for 16" LVL's.. I would just order 18" LVL's to be sure. The customer was always happy to know that it's over spec. They aren't worried about saving a few hundred dollars on a beam.. Just build it over spec and they will be happy campers.
Youre talking rss screws right? Not just regular construction screws.
We always build any headers overspec too. Just easier to do. No worries.
The engineer does not make the drawing, the engineer gives the specification, the draft man makes the blueprint. In real life it doesn't fall on them.
@@gabemillee3726 Wrong.. The Architect makes the drawing first and then it's up to the engineer to make it happen. They have to "engineer" the drawing and stamp their approval on exactly how it should be built. I built houses for over a decade and have had many meetings with both of them in the room. The engineer has final say on what materials to use and what size, etc.. that's literally his only job. He's the math nerd that tells everyone what has to be used.
@@gabemillee3726 The architect just draws a line across the page and says "I want a beam across here"-- and his job is done. Now the Engineer has to calculate all the weight loads above that area and spec out the size and spans, etc.. Then the framer just builds it to that spec. Again, no one can do anything without the ENGINEER's approval. They have to literally stamp the print, which is a legally binding agreement that he is responsible if they build it to HIS SPEC and it still fails... That's why it costs so much to get that engineer's stamp, because he's taking on a lot of responsibility and liability. So it's not cheap.
Thanks for being an upstanding contractor.
I might guess that the engineer may have used a deflection limit of l/360 which is about 3/4” for. 22’ span. Possibly a cambered beam to begin with may have worked better to mitigate it in hindsight. Wonder if your solution will again deflect but I would estimate about a 25% improvement, so about a half inch which is about l/480. A pretty good result. Enjoyed your video , thanks.
Awesome video. Lots of great tips and tricks for someone that’s going to do a similar thing.
Enjoyed this. Thanks
The way your man was positioned behind both those jacks pumping them up was damned scarry. Never would I in a million years put myself in that position. Lucky no injury. Imagine having that beam land on your head or shoulder. We jacked up the ceiling beam in our living room, reinforced after realigning and putting two 1/4 inch steel plates secured with 24 lag bolts either side. Like your work ethic!!!
Awesome, nailed it, and denailed and nailed it again , Framers! 🔨
That was a FANTASTIC non-edited non-click-bait thumbnail! 👏👏👏
The new tripple hammer bolt is sweet👌
Good people make the world go around. Nice fix!
Wish I could find contractors/builders like AwesomeFramers in So Calif! Even on $3M-$4M houses, construction is often shoddy and cuts corners. The emphasis always seems to be on cosmetic surfaces and finishes to "look expensive", not the underlying construction & mechanical quality -- because that can't be immediately detected.
A testament to your channel's name! Good job :-)
The takeaway is your integrity; you mentioned that you have your name on enough of the houses in the nieghb', let alone making it worse by trying to say it's not your responsibility via lawyering. You make it right, and there's no story for people to tell about Pioneer except that they heed the call back. It's a good business lesson, thanks.
Cool -- i recently jacked up the center of my ~3 story post & beam Victorian, fitted LVLs & posts, on custom lally columns & footers on ledge in the basement. 4 jack points. ALONE. Love your vids, worked for a guy like you in CA when i was 20.
Its great some integrity in building. Thank you
Wow guys you went above and beyond!!👍
Just a tip: I think you missed the opportunity here to show us the amount of sag with a laserline en afterwards in the same way proving you fixed it. There is no way of telling that you did after you took away the 6x6...
In order of decreasing commonality…
• Making mistakes
• Identifying mistakes
• Owning mistakes
• Fixing mistakes
Thanks man, good fix
The problem with hydraulic jacks is that almost always will leak down . I had similar problem an used a steel screw jack. It was my own house so I could raise it in increments over about a week. I actually raised about 3/8" high, bolted a 1/2' x 12" x18 foot steel plate to the double LVL header with 24 1/2" grade 8 bolts thru bolted to the LVLs on16" centers. It eventually settled down to almost level, about 1/8" high.
Technically your company didn’t have to do anything, but good on you to protect your reputation. A flitch beam option would likely have helped with the defection but would be costly. Pro-tip: jack up the ends of the new beam to its final location instead of “beating” it up. I installed many of these beams solo and have had to find ways to complete the job.
I am thinking you have could be customers hanging on the fence with your proposals , if they watch this video , you may just snag a couple .......would or will be custormers....good business and a good fix, I wonder though, could the beam have had a slight crown and it just got turned down when you framed the house,even though you are always watching for crowns in most dimensional lumber , we get spoiled on engineered beams being straight but now and then I have found one with a small crown. Also , many of my larger jobs that had long spans of 40 to 50 ft ,the manufacturer of the beams and girders had made them with crowns in them because the load going on them was heavy enough to level them out, it was amazing to see such beams deflect as much as some have. I have spent a life time of problem solving as they come and as you know, its part of it on restoration work , its great that you did this video to show thinking that may be outside the box, keep em coming , stay safe .
Even you said that your team missed this flaw. A twenty foot span is very long with that kind of load above it. Anything over ten feet should require steel instead of glued wood.
Even steel will sag
Our Structural Engineer is very much of the opinion that you cannot beat steel for large spans like this. I was leaning on him pretty hard last year in an effort to eliminate steel from a proposed design and the required volume of engineered timber to carry the same loads ended up being cost prohibitive compared to steel. Curious about the role your draftsman plays in this? Here a draftsman would fairly strictly be drawing what was prescribed by the structural engineer but you seem to suggest the draftsman in this case was being retrospectively peer reviewed by the engineer which seems a bit backwards......? Regardless, as everyone is saying, kudos for taking this responsibility when you technically didn't have to!!!!
The Engineer is in charge and is responsible for design . The Engineer does the designing. The draftsman does the drawing. It is the Engineer responsibility to check the draftsman's work. If the Engineer missed the draftsman's error it is the Engineer's error. This seems like the Engineer not taking responsibility for his work and passing the blame to the lowest paid individual.
The cost comparison of volume of engineered wood versus steel is a great comment, I would would prefer steel for this span, and the top comment mentions a similar remediation using steel plate reinforcement of wood beam.
@@groverw7507 Yeah, a flitch plate in addition to the extra ply of LVL would be belt and braces for sure….!
Yes that is what i was thinking and if you need more strength bring a welder in as a welder myself i have done this for builders many times.
Even steel sags
Nicely done. 32:12 As far as cutting that column: I wonder if cutting it from both sides at 45 degree downward angle would allow it to slide out. I suspect it would probably just bind the blade at the last second. maybe if you cut one side, then shimmed the kerf then cut the other side.
Dude! That house is beautiful!!
Interesting to watch how different building techniques are used around the world.
In Norway, I think it's more common to use gluelam beam than LVL/LSL for heavy beams.
For joists, it's fairly common to use I-joists with OSB core.
For the temporary support column, I think it is a nice idea to use a pair of wedges under the column.
Use (maybe 10" of 2x6, cut it diagonally, and you easily have 3/8" adjustment, adjustment, and still 6x6 support surface.
When you install it, your cut only need to be approximately, because you can make it exact with the wedges.
When you remove it, you just remove the screws that kept it from moving, then knock the wedges out from under it.
(No need to use the saw to cut it)
Jack on top, always. Good video.
You should install squash blocks on the wood I beams for the temp wall. Also you can use screw jacks on the beam and the temp wall to take the load of the floor system off the beam and spread the load across the slab. A point load without a footing underneath the slab can punch shear through or crack the slab.
Flitch plate would also be something to consider for the beam.
As a builder I know how hard it is to find some good faithful guys. Be thankful that you got guys who help you be the best you can be. They all want top dollar with the knowledge of a guy who wonders what lineal means.
One post jacks up, the other has wedges taking up slack as a securing system if the jacking post deviates from vertical axis. In some cases acro-props can be the secondary.
41 years in the 🔨🔨business - Thank you for doing the right thing. Small cost in the scope of life 😊
On an outdoor patio cover I used #4 rebar epoxied in a 1/2" wide , 1/2" deep grove with structural epoxy to reinforce the bottom of a sagging beam due to a knot. When I let down the jack the next day the sag was gone.
The work you will gain by doing the right thing will more than pay for the time and materials you use. Plus you can sleep well knowing you did the right thing. I wish more people had your attitude.
“Whoop!… there it goes!”
Very interesting...
hats off to you guys for standing by your work.
The allowable deflection, which is designed in is span/360, but with timber, because it is a natural material that moves as it dries, larger deflections are commonplace. I worked on a historic building where the 14" x 12" oak beams over the dining hall took on a sag of 12" over a span of 30ft that was mostly due to self weight. In mitigation they were 350 years old! These beams were then supported by the steel frame for the new roof over and there followed a delicate exercise of pulling up the beams to only take off the load (and no more) on them.
Where web blocking installed each side of web at joist hanger location ? A small gap at top is usually specified in installation details by truss joist manufacturer. I’ve always enjoyed taking out long load bearing walls supporting loads. It’s very important to be aware of necessary bearing capacity at bottom locations of point loads.I’ve found many cases of bottom bearing points not being considered
No need for "web blocking" with www.strongtie.com/facemounthangers_engineeredwoodconnectors/ius_hanger/p/ius
Awesome!
Very honorable of you! So what is the best way to size a beam? Maybe you mentioned it in a video before?
Have an engineer do it 👍
The marketing value of backing your work would be priceless. Sometimes you have to give away a nickel to make a dime.
I noticed that after you were done and took out the post, that you didn't double check to see if the sag came back. I'll bet it did somewhat, but not as much as it was. A better approach would have been to glue the extra piece on along with screwing it, then there wouldn't have been any sag because glue doesn't give like screws do in the wood fibers. The best remedy would have been to "over jack" the beam by about 1/4 inch and then make the fix. My guess would be that you started with a 3/4 sag, ended with a 1/2 sag, but if you would have glued it, you would have ended up with a 1/4 sag, and if you over jacked it, you may end up with no sag at all.
Agree.
I suppose a post-tension cable system could have been designed, if the sag is now that large of an issue.
Agree completely with your comment. The load is now on the repair beam.
Taking that post out, I was thinking that is a place for the electric chain saw. However, why you did not use jack posts from the get go is beyond me.
Love how subtle you were 😂
Lvl sag over time. This is common knowledge. I tried tell a gc we needed a steel plate sandwich between the 4 lvl or better just to use steel beams. He wouldn't pour the floors in concrete like i originally suggested and everything is sagging 1½ inches. Lvls suck in long spans.
you should have used the adjustable steel post jacks to push the beam up rather than hammering it.
Yes and shoring jacks on the floor system and incrementally take the load of the wood I floor system off the LVL beam making it easier to reverse the deflection.
I have found that performing this kind of repair with a 3 ton floor jack allows you to save the energy you would use pounding it in. Really saves you for the end of the day push.
Respect, enige wat ik kan zeggen.
Veel overtredingen zijn dweilen met de kraan open, het grootste gebrek aan respecteren van je rijbewijs en omgeving.
I've done this before by first laying down a long LVL spread the pressure on the concrete slab and using several screw jacks used for suspended slabs to take the sag out of the beam
On another note it is code to put pl premium on each hanger before put in place and nail to prevent vibrations in my area too could only imagine how hard to take apart after the fact
Norm was the King of weekend update, buddy!
"It was under-designed by the draftsman..."
Sorry? Maybe I don't understand what a "draftsman" is, but isn't it an architect or an engineer who designs structures?
Timmy and crew true Maestros, like the name says Awesome framers. Thanks for Sharing...
How did the finished kitchen take it? I'm thinking not so well. I encountered a similar problem with an "architect", but it was a ridge beam. House surgery.
You should be getting a 10 yr structural warranty on the home if you buy it brand new. Not sure if that warranty conveys to the next owner though.
Hey with those 3 point ladders, can you walk them? I tend to ride my ladder around if I'm working up on a ladder, but I've been looking at those post type step ladders. I dont mind carrying a ladder around, but they are lighter. I just dont want to lose the ability to walk them.
Doing cursory calculations for joist spacing for a deck I learned that a joist can be plenty strong but not rigid enough. Likely your original joist was chosen for strength which turned out to be not rigid enough.
Just a question. Doesn't the last ply you put in have to be supported on the ends?
Nope, the triple provided enough bearing
@@AwesomeFramers Thanks for taking the time to respond.
Exactly my question, as I have a similar problem with doubled 2x12’s spanning 19 feet with a light roof load and 2x8 rafters spaced 2’ apart. The 2x12’s probably give plenty enough bearing at the ends but not sure about the sag potential.
Details...
"Little details"
Yes!
💪🙌👍
We all know Schmidt made that show. “MA CALLED. THE BEES ARE BACK”!
whoop there it goes.
since I own a number of my own masons scaffolding, I would have used scaffolds with adjustable foot for this. Put the hydraulic jack under the bottom rail for lifting and keep the feet adjusted up tight for stability. And of course, as you did a board at the bottom to distribute the weight so as not to destroy the pavement. But good job all the same.
I had to hold up a load bearing wall to reframe it. Went to Tractor Supply and bought a 5 ton trailer jack that afixes to the frame to lower and raise the tongue off the ball hitch. Had the local wlding shop weld heavy gage steel tubing to the top. Welded a flat plate to the open end, drilled a big hole in the center so acme thred can fit inside with an attachment to hold two 2x10. Turn the crank handle and it raised and held the roof just fine. No issues with kickout at all. Those jacks come in different tonnage. Use one off of an 18 wheeler trailer if need be.
Ive got to wonder, with the way the 1st version of your jack "jumped" out of position, did you have anything connecting it to the beam ?
I think a slight slope on the driveway the base was sitting on.
I think a slight slope on the driveway the base was sitting on.
Question, what size jacks were you using?
When lifting sagging sagging barns I have a 16 inch wide tree that was cut down in 12 inch logs. I pile them up until they're 16 inches from the beam that needs to be lifted. I rotate the logs so the top is level and use shims where needed. When needed, additional 2X12s can be added. Then I use a 20 ton jack and go slow.
There's no fulcrum effect this way.
It'd be nice to get an update after a year to see if it sagged again or not.
Here in the UK we have these things called "Acro Props". They're absolutely ubiquitous on building sites. I'm surprised you don't seem to have something similar there.
Acrows are not as strong as solid timber
Ameliorate .. My word of the day 😊
Did any cracking in the finishes (drywall, granite counter, floors) occur?
Nope, we had Greg up there watching for that.