I started my electrical apprenticeship about a year ago after HVAC install for 5 years. I always wanted to be a service tech but it never worked out that way. I watch your videos and still have dreams of being a good service tech. Your content is gold. You're a good tech.
@@arthouston7361 As the owner of a 4.0L Jeep, and as someone who has worked on several 4.0L Jeeps, you're not wrong. Although, by some miracle, mine doesn't leak a drop! Previous owner put over $1,000 into making sure it didn't leak before I bought it two years ago. It's not a question of "IF" it'll start leaking, it's a question of "WHEN" and "WHERE" - but at least for now, I have one of the extremely rare non-leaking Jeeps. I've gone and jinxed myself, haven't I?
For these systems an oil separator in the discharge line seems like an idea to make the compressors last longer... Have it separate out a good part of the trapped oil and link it back to the suction with a capillary tube and cut-off solenoid for the pump-down. Considering how much time you spent on just this service call, it's likely cheaper to install these than just call you every other year. But hey, if the customer doesn't want to do it, it's more money for you later. Win-win.
Those all-in-one boxes/islands would probably be good ideas if they were designed as modules with repair in mind. One section has a problem? Just pull a few bolts and that section can be removed for easy repair or replacement. But of course that makes the initial purchase price much higher so they don't do it.
A suggestion that I could make is to resolve the oil issue is to put a cap tube after the txv to the suction line after the sensing bulb. Make a p trap with the cap tube after the txv to let oil get trapped but still let a little refrigerant after it has cleared all the oil out. This is the engineering mind that I have going that says how to fix the issue. I have run into this same issue before with failed power heads even on box systems. More info for the other techs in the field to pickup on when they find things like this.
Only 1 coil doing all the work for some time but only noticed when 2nd power head went out. In the mean time coils just an oil accumulator. Knew immediately the solonoid valve was good. I always changed power heads live. pump down raise tstat to de energize solonoid in and out. 43fc i think. Easy peasy. 😊
I have not finished it, but I ❤ this video. Great work. I also like the idea of using that wire brush for cleaning the copper before disassembling the component.
A big issue might be, the txv entering on the bottom and the sucction leaving at the top. Back in trade school we talked about it because the refrigerent has to move up against gravity and the oil falls back inside and stays down, im pretty sure if enter from top end put a nice p trap in there it might fix the issue. But i know its a pain since you dont have any space in there
Oil separator, Chris... It would solve this, use either a piston with a pulsing solenoid or a small capillary with pump down cutoff solenoid. Catches something like 98% of the oil, which would not solve the problem but definitely delay the onset of the symptoms. Otherwise 10/10 vid.
one of our guy's hand got burned when he was unsweating a condenser and oil caught fire and spewed a jet of flame, even though the system was at 0 psi... refrigerant can get trapped behind oil, that's why it sometimes "burps" doing recovery and the microns shoot way up. we now no longer unsweat compressors, dryers, evaporators or condensers
We take care of a Kairak rack for one of our customers. I’m dreading the day I have to make repairs like this in their extremely busy line. So far since I’ve been with this company (1.5 years) it’s dumped the charge 3 times from lines rubbing out. They refuse to do any maintenance.
If the Restaurant doesn't want to lift the rack to do a proper repair, is it possible to use a thick epoxy resin to coat the floor of the rack instead? Use a thick enough Epoxy and it should flow into the holes and plug them up, then set into a strong plastic sheet sealing the rotten area away from any water coming from the rack area itself such as when you're cleaning it... That won't be cheap, but it should cost a HELL of a lot less than lifting the entire rack to replace the rotted sheet metal would...and it would have the benefit of being done while the rack is running too...
Awesome in-depth video, Chris, with great team work. You put a lot into it going through everything and covering the important details. It was one thing to see all that oil come oil which makes you feel sorry for the compressor, but it was quite another to see your new 'look' when it came to the closing commentary! Is compressor oil actually from the proverbial 'fountain of youth' (which would explain the high cost of compressor oil as well as why HVACRs never seem to get old or at least age much more slowly), or does it make your make your hair fall out (which would explain the lack of facial hair and cap)?
Out of curiosity: What kind of gaskets are in the solenoid valve you brazed in? The valves our company usually uses have rubber o-rings that get roasted if you do not cool the valve during brazing or disassemble it before hand… great video as always. Keep it up.
What you could do is come onsite with a couple buckets of Flex Seal and just pour it all over the bottom of the rack. Why? I did it on a similar job... and it worked..
Discharge oil separator like they use in ultra low temp refrigeration is a fantastic idea if they're gonna do stupid stuff like having the suction on the top instead of the bottom
Oh those are especially fun, when the whole drain line freezes. Had to make a 3/8 hose out of vinyl tubing that I use to run hot water while snaking down drain line.
Yeah I do the same, I defrost the drain line while using a shop vac to remove the water first than the pan chiller gets defrosted last if it’s not already defrosted
Doesn’t the oil coat the inside of the pipes and prevent heat transfer while the refrigerant still goes through the coil? I don’t think it traps refrigerant in the evaporator.
I had a contractor install a dual evap in a walk in and they left the individual temp controls install so only one evap would run and rhe other would accumulate all the damn oil so id lose all the oil in the compressor. I had to twin them. Running a compressor ar half capacity with large line sets is a recipe for disaster
forfgive me for being cheap but I can't believe you'd use quality pair of knipex pliers to unbraze when the cheap blue handle k mart special would do just fine
So looking by the setup looks like a P.F. Chang’s. We do work for them here in Chattanooga. They have almost identical setup with custom built stuff and condensing unit is in rack. Ended up 7/9 of their evaporation coils had leaks. We ended up going back with all new heat craft coils since somehow the coils couldn’t be sourced. Leaks were so bad we were going back every month to top off charge
They were sourcing those original coils from a vendor that was getting them custom specd and built in bulk orders for those coil assemblies they we're installing during their retrofit shutdowns
I hope you know the risks of brazing with those types of gloves on. You should be using leather and not something that can melt to your hand. Just FYI. Safety first.
Build quality is just sad on these units. But then again customer doesnt want to pay for quality so true wont build anything decent and you end up fixing this crap.
I don't understand how people can let their equipment get to such a terrible status, I know there's been worse but this is bad enough for a total replacement of the system (In my eyes at least)
I started my electrical apprenticeship about a year ago after HVAC install for 5 years. I always wanted to be a service tech but it never worked out that way. I watch your videos and still have dreams of being a good service tech. Your content is gold. You're a good tech.
I, like watching what I did for 25 years. Was big in restaurant refer, work.
Retired/back disability
Oil leaking like it was a BMW
Or a 4.0 L Jeep.
Cool comment! Really like it
Also doesn’t have any turn signals, so can confirm, BMW.
More like an any vehicle that has not been maintained well.
@@arthouston7361 As the owner of a 4.0L Jeep, and as someone who has worked on several 4.0L Jeeps, you're not wrong.
Although, by some miracle, mine doesn't leak a drop! Previous owner put over $1,000 into making sure it didn't leak before I bought it two years ago. It's not a question of "IF" it'll start leaking, it's a question of "WHEN" and "WHERE" - but at least for now, I have one of the extremely rare non-leaking Jeeps.
I've gone and jinxed myself, haven't I?
For these systems an oil separator in the discharge line seems like an idea to make the compressors last longer...
Have it separate out a good part of the trapped oil and link it back to the suction with a capillary tube and cut-off solenoid for the pump-down.
Considering how much time you spent on just this service call, it's likely cheaper to install these than just call you every other year. But hey, if the customer doesn't want to do it, it's more money for you later. Win-win.
Yeah but to be fair it would likely plug up the return line because they don’t do good maintenance
@@HVACRVIDEOS That is a very valid concern. Any added part is another possible point of failure.
Get that system a hotdog for all that mustard!
Those all-in-one boxes/islands would probably be good ideas if they were designed as modules with repair in mind. One section has a problem? Just pull a few bolts and that section can be removed for easy repair or replacement. But of course that makes the initial purchase price much higher so they don't do it.
Frankenstein outdoor unit lol
It needs a hundred oil traps as the pipe work falls down to the multitudes of evaps lol😂😂😂
I'm amazed at the lack of food scraps in the reach in section!
A suggestion that I could make is to resolve the oil issue is to put a cap tube after the txv to the suction line after the sensing bulb. Make a p trap with the cap tube after the txv to let oil get trapped but still let a little refrigerant after it has cleared all the oil out. This is the engineering mind that I have going that says how to fix the issue. I have run into this same issue before with failed power heads even on box systems. More info for the other techs in the field to pickup on when they find things like this.
Only 1 coil doing all the work for some time but only noticed when 2nd power head went out. In the mean time coils just an oil accumulator. Knew immediately the solonoid valve was good. I always changed power heads live. pump down raise tstat to de energize solonoid in and out. 43fc i think. Easy peasy. 😊
12:07 - Yeah. The boss always gets the easy TEV!
"We are cool" 😎 most cool statement
Great video Chris! I really appreciate your explanations in the closing words. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks
I have not finished it, but I ❤ this video. Great work. I also like the idea of using that wire brush for cleaning the copper before disassembling the component.
OMG! So much oil coming out, that compressor is done for!Awesome video! Be careful working on these units!
Like always great info Chris. Thanks from florida
A big issue might be, the txv entering on the bottom and the sucction leaving at the top. Back in trade school we talked about it because the refrigerent has to move up against gravity and the oil falls back inside and stays down, im pretty sure if enter from top end put a nice p trap in there it might fix the issue. But i know its a pain since you dont have any space in there
What's this chris struck oil dude ya gonna be rich as heck 😂 lol
Oil separator, Chris... It would solve this, use either a piston with a pulsing solenoid or a small capillary with pump down cutoff solenoid. Catches something like 98% of the oil, which would not solve the problem but definitely delay the onset of the symptoms. Otherwise 10/10 vid.
when that solenoid to Tee Joint cooled it shrunk and pulled back, hopefully there is still enough engagement @11:31 mark
One of sensible comment at the last part of this video❤️
one of our guy's hand got burned when he was unsweating a condenser and oil caught fire and spewed a jet of flame, even though the system was at 0 psi... refrigerant can get trapped behind oil, that's why it sometimes "burps" doing recovery and the microns shoot way up. we now no longer unsweat compressors, dryers, evaporators or condensers
Holy oil Batman.
Polishing the ...
We take care of a Kairak rack for one of our customers. I’m dreading the day I have to make repairs like this in their extremely busy line. So far since I’ve been with this company (1.5 years) it’s dumped the charge 3 times from lines rubbing out. They refuse to do any maintenance.
Wait, wheres my bucket of popcorn?
Great Video. Nice work and Good Job. Thank you for sharing
You shaved! :D
No, good job! Love seeing something that makes you guys go "Huhh.. interesting"
gotta be honest, miss the sporlan intro. Quality, Integrity, Tradition.
I needed a change after 900 videos with the same Intro
It sucks trying to find a job in HVAC I like this, I like bringing people comfort and what better way than airflow and heat displacement
There isn't enough refrigerant velocity through the txv when the powerhead is bad, traps the oil.
Thanks for the hat bro. Fits perfect.
"The road to hell is paved with good intentions". Great educational video!
If the Restaurant doesn't want to lift the rack to do a proper repair, is it possible to use a thick epoxy resin to coat the floor of the rack instead? Use a thick enough Epoxy and it should flow into the holes and plug them up, then set into a strong plastic sheet sealing the rotten area away from any water coming from the rack area itself such as when you're cleaning it...
That won't be cheap, but it should cost a HELL of a lot less than lifting the entire rack to replace the rotted sheet metal would...and it would have the benefit of being done while the rack is running too...
We've done this using flex seal, it's held up 5 years now.
@@RT-qd8yl Wow. Flex Seal FTW
Awesome in-depth video, Chris, with great team work. You put a lot into it going through everything and covering the important details. It was one thing to see all that oil come oil which makes you feel sorry for the compressor, but it was quite another to see your new 'look' when it came to the closing commentary! Is compressor oil actually from the proverbial 'fountain of youth' (which would explain the high cost of compressor oil as well as why HVACRs never seem to get old or at least age much more slowly), or does it make your make your hair fall out (which would explain the lack of facial hair and cap)?
Out of curiosity: What kind of gaskets are in the solenoid valve you brazed in? The valves our company usually uses have rubber o-rings that get roasted if you do not cool the valve during brazing or disassemble it before hand… great video as always. Keep it up.
That valve is too small to really protect, just gotta go for it hot and fast and cool it afterwards
Awesome video great info
I love it, grind...grind... Darn it! 😅
Love the kitchen stuff!
Good troubleshooting Chris
Great job !
What you could do is come onsite with a couple buckets of Flex Seal and just pour it all over the bottom of the rack. Why? I did it on a similar job... and it worked..
Discharge oil separator like they use in ultra low temp refrigeration is a fantastic idea if they're gonna do stupid stuff like having the suction on the top instead of the bottom
Yeah but like on a real rack you need an oil separator oil differential valve and a oil reservoir
Nice job.
Thanks!
Add oil to that compressor for sure lol
Those pan chillers are a nightmare! Drains constantly clog and fan motors burn out.
Funny I’ve got a call on one of those pan chillers freezing up at another store tomorrow
Oh those are especially fun, when the whole drain line freezes. Had to make a 3/8 hose out of vinyl tubing that I use to run hot water while snaking down drain line.
Yeah I do the same, I defrost the drain line while using a shop vac to remove the water first than the pan chiller gets defrosted last if it’s not already defrosted
Would using the exhaust of the vacuum to blow all the water out work? That way you wouldn’t damage your vacuum.
La position du bulbe ?
Doesn’t the oil coat the inside of the pipes and prevent heat transfer while the refrigerant still goes through the coil? I don’t think it traps refrigerant in the evaporator.
Send that system straight to the hospital. (Serious infection).
did you see the joint move at 38.08?
sorry 11:30
I had a contractor install a dual evap in a walk in and they left the individual temp controls install so only one evap would run and rhe other would accumulate all the damn oil so id lose all the oil in the compressor. I had to twin them. Running a compressor ar half capacity with large line sets is a recipe for disaster
What do you think about the new R454b that will replace 404A?
Delfield coils do this a lot.
Pumping a scroll compressor down to 2 psi is a no no.
I think that is the last of the worries by the looks of this place
forfgive me for being cheap but I can't believe you'd use quality pair of knipex pliers to unbraze when the cheap blue handle k mart special would do just fine
Tools are meant for work, I refuse to baby my tools
Good job Chris, Shaven face for a change.
Shows the process of troubleshooting a technician has to do when the problem isn't obvious.
Question... was there also predator blood/ leak detector in that system?. Oil looked suspicious to me..
About 50% sure that’s a CCF
So looking by the setup looks like a P.F. Chang’s. We do work for them here in Chattanooga. They have almost identical setup with custom built stuff and condensing unit is in rack. Ended up 7/9 of their evaporation coils had leaks. We ended up going back with all new heat craft coils since somehow the coils couldn’t be sourced. Leaks were so bad we were going back every month to top off charge
They were sourcing those original coils from a vendor that was getting them custom specd and built in bulk orders for those coil assemblies they we're installing during their retrofit shutdowns
did not know land rover also made coolers.
I hope you know the risks of brazing with those types of gloves on. You should be using leather and not something that can melt to your hand.
Just FYI. Safety first.
Wow
Brazing a2l might be sus?
Looks like a PF changs
Build quality is just sad on these units. But then again customer doesnt want to pay for quality so true wont build anything decent and you end up fixing this crap.
Ole pf and their messy setups
What what what what are you saying? you've made mistakes? I've been doing this for over 40 years. I've never made one single mistake.
Is that mineral oil?
No it’s dirty overheated Poe oil
@@HVACRVIDEOS at first I thought it was Canola oil... then maybe 5W15 ... then settled on Mineral oil.
Alas, I was wrong on all three counts.
Oh dear heavens that’s bad! The compressor needs oil really bad! Compressor without oil: *seizes up* *ded* did you like the joke HVACR VIDEOS? - Riley
😋
I don't understand how people can let their equipment get to such a terrible status, I know there's been worse but this is bad enough for a total replacement of the system (In my eyes at least)
For some. All they see is money being spent. Repair is a fraction of the cost compared to replacement
If the roof is leaking I would say in that situation a diesel powered air compressor would be a better option ? No?
74 thumbs up
Custom islands are the worst!
Man that electrical is ugly looking. I guess as long as it's not burning it's fine.
Yeah I would love to make it look pretty but the customer isn’t too interested in me doing that….
👍🏿
The beard! Noooooooo
How are there always comments from before the video was posted?
just youtube bugs
Early video access for channel members
Try looking in the video description, I'll say Patreon.
The channel members typically get access to the video before the public
❤❤👍👍👍👂🇿🇲
“…And the sight glass is clear!” 🫡