Great tip (especially on the gas key) that everyone should know! I bought some bands in a hardware store, that does the job as well, and they rarely need changing. Appreciate all the info you put out there for the community. It's inspiring!
I was finally able to buy a GHK M4 v2 a few weeks ago.....i just paid 850€..........i got it, unpacked it, looked at it....and there was quite alot of receiver wobble, and i was like "are you serious......" because GHK is known for their build quality and everyone loves them. I looked online and found a trick with electrical tape put onto the sides of the lower receiver, i did exactly that, and now my bolt wont travel back or forth.....i was ready to bring this thing back to the shop......I fixed this by simply putting a very thin washer between the front pin and the receiver and the wobble was completly gone and rocksolid. Overall a pretty nice rifle, feels damn real tbh. But 850€ meeeeh. I hope modding this thing with RS parts wont be so difficult.
Nice tip. Only one info: the t8 extended pins are a bit wider than stock ones, allowing to achieve in a more permanent (but also pricey) way the same results.
Thanks buddy, it's a real green eotech and a vortex 3x mini flip to side. The G3 has a Trigicon TA11 3.5X on it. Glass on all is superb. Got most of them from eBay to be honest.
@@OllieTalksAirsoft ah nice dude, only one more question, is there some kind of protection for the magnifier when having it flipped to the side and just using the eotech?
No protection for the vortex as their warranty covers Airsoft and it's a super quick service. With the eotech i usually put on the 552 I have with a lens protector for actually playing. Lens protectors for the exps models are hard to find.
I'd definitely recommend getting the BBF Airsoft AR15 Type Receiver Shim Kit to fix this issue. They are made of stainless steel and do not break with use. Give them a try!
At the contracts stage so hopefully not too much longer, but everywhere shuts down over Christmas so that will slow it down a bit. Start of 2023 hopefully by 1st Feb 🤞
Thought of a more permanent way to do this and that's to use some shim stock and glue a piece on the bottom on the pin holes using green locktite the same way you would use to tighten shotgun actions or shim out the action
Hey Ollie, just found this video! Was great to meet you at NAF, I hope you had a good time. Have you ever used a G&P Magic pin to resolve this kind of issue?
hey, ollie have you ever considered buying a hpa drum mag? I've been thinking about buying one but wanted someone else opinion before making the purchase.
check on the TM GBB discord group im sure a few people on there have got them, I think there may be a few brands now so they will have an opinion on the best one of the bunch.
I heard of two products that offer a solution and I wanted your opinion if you have one. The RA Tech magic pin which tightens the front pin inside the lower with an allen screw... or the Accuwedge which shims the rear pin.
Pretty funny, from last game my MTR16 get some wobble, could find any issue, so it seems, now after something over 40k rounds (Lost a bit track here, could also be even more) the wobble starts. Time to get some hairbands.
Hello, can you help me about my TM Mk18 mod 1. When i shoot the BB doest come out from the barrel. Then i checked the hop up and saw that like zero. Then i adjust the hop up up a little bit (stop when i see the rubber inside the barrel) its working nomarlly. But after i shoots about 30 rounds. I hop up just come back to zero again. How can i fix that. Thank you
Hey Ollie short update from my past basement sessions: Done everything with lubing what you told me to do. (Used the BB session to work it in.) Again used 144a. Tried again with a full load of gas waiting until the valves spits, then got out one complete Load and only bit more. Watched your gg-mod video. Will try to lower mags and aggressively try to put everything in like in the vid :D. Maybe I will weight them! Green gas is more resistent against temperature so better option how I understoood. Would you say: „Test again with green gas! Don‘t worry about your nozzle spring“ Than have a look at your mags!“ I‘m afraid of punishing anything. If temperature drops would green gas be my „144a gas“ during hot summer? Or will I nevertheless put still more stress on my internals? Or is the power now ok when temperature is lower? Nozzlespring upgrade before green gas use? And now: Hearing test: 3 of 5 mags having those minileaks. 2 completely ok. After that relubed from outside router and output valve again. I think I‘ts really nothing important. Little nano „blub“ sound. Won‘t effect anything I think. I will ignore and if everything fails I owned the Lees Precision O-Ring set for the mags. Another user told me that maybe the mechanics under the pusher item of the valve above has got good Funktion but valve below needs some lube. Maybe pushing those pins and take the work. …but first when I played first skirm 😅✌🏽 Some important questions: What’s your experience with the T8 feedlips? What brand for complete set/spare nozzle should I go? There are sets and only nozzle. And what brand for nozzle spring? There is % giving, how many percent should I go for? Have a nice day! Thank you for sharing your big experience and that you take your time for your community 😶🌫️😶🌫️😬😬🤘🏽🤘🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽 Josch
I'd say don't worry about using 144 gas and just use green gas. The best nozzle is the original TM one and the best aftermarket is the Guns Modify or the DP, as for return springs I'd keep it close to the 100% mark, you don't really need the 150% and above. T8 feed lips were ok, seemed to work well but it's best to have all of your mags the same so do one and you should try to do all of them. Personally I'd say lubing or greasing the o rings with lithium should have them seal up nicely. Leave it on for a few hours before re-assembly so the o rings can expand and plump up a little. Good luck 🤙
In my experience you shouldn’t do this mod. Yes the bands work in the short term. But they add a lot more friction and pressure on the pins and the receiver. Once you take the rubber bands off, you’ll find that wobble has actually gotten worse. So it’s okay if there’s a little wobble or some gaps here and there. besides, it’s the same way on the real guns. unless you’re extremely lucky or you spend thousands of dollars on a gun, there’s always gonna be some wobble
The gas key on the top of the bolt will be worn and need replacing. It's riding over the bbs and not punching them , I tank about this in the "mws knowledge drop" video. Also use Geoff's BBs or excel/TM as they are smaller and feed better.
Hands down the most genuine example of a man who truly knows his platform and brand 👍 your a legend Ollie 👌
Great tip (especially on the gas key) that everyone should know!
I bought some bands in a hardware store, that does the job as well, and they rarely need changing.
Appreciate all the info you put out there for the community. It's inspiring!
Thank you ❤️
Just came back to this after experiencing a little wobble today. Brilliant resource as usual Ollie
Great to see you back!
It'll be a weird upload schedule for a month or so more hopefully at the most then I'll be back to regular videos, thanks for your support 😊
Ah no worries, life is usually busy for people. Appreciate the knowledge you always share 🙏
I was finally able to buy a GHK M4 v2 a few weeks ago.....i just paid 850€..........i got it, unpacked it, looked at it....and there was quite alot of receiver wobble, and i was like "are you serious......" because GHK is known for their build quality and everyone loves them. I looked online and found a trick with electrical tape put onto the sides of the lower receiver, i did exactly that, and now my bolt wont travel back or forth.....i was ready to bring this thing back to the shop......I fixed this by simply putting a very thin washer between the front pin and the receiver and the wobble was completly gone and rocksolid. Overall a pretty nice rifle, feels damn real tbh. But 850€ meeeeh. I hope modding this thing with RS parts wont be so difficult.
Nice tip. Only one info: the t8 extended pins are a bit wider than stock ones, allowing to achieve in a more permanent (but also pricey) way the same results.
I have them, but you have to slightly round the retention pins to freely slide in the extended pin grooves.
@@boobe92 didn't have that problem, I guess they just weared down with use
Great to see you back man, and keeping the rest of us in the loop of all these little tips and tricks 😀
hey oli, i love your videos, i even bought an mws after watching them. what are you optics and where did u get them
Thanks buddy, it's a real green eotech and a vortex 3x mini flip to side. The G3 has a Trigicon TA11 3.5X on it. Glass on all is superb. Got most of them from eBay to be honest.
@@OllieTalksAirsoft ah nice dude, only one more question, is there some kind of protection for the magnifier when having it flipped to the side and just using the eotech?
No protection for the vortex as their warranty covers Airsoft and it's a super quick service. With the eotech i usually put on the 552 I have with a lens protector for actually playing. Lens protectors for the exps models are hard to find.
How are you doing recently Ollie, love to see you back.
pretty stressed but glad to be back, next month or so will be patchy but after that its all breaks off 🥳
Good to see you back mate.
I'd definitely recommend getting the BBF Airsoft AR15 Type Receiver Shim Kit to fix this issue. They are made of stainless steel and do not break with use. Give them a try!
ill have to check them out, thanks 😁
@@OllieTalksAirsoft beer can and scissors may well create same effect...
We g3a3, sweeeet 👍, got mine a year ago and its a beast 💪
Keep the videos coming mate and happy holidays 🎄👍
I'm already looking to get more recoil out of it 😅
Thanks buddy you too, bring on 2023 🥳
And he’s back! Excellent video as always dude 👍 how’s the move coming along? 🏠
At the contracts stage so hopefully not too much longer, but everywhere shuts down over Christmas so that will slow it down a bit. Start of 2023 hopefully by 1st Feb 🤞
Thought of a more permanent way to do this and that's to use some shim stock and glue a piece on the bottom on the pin holes using green locktite the same way you would use to tighten shotgun actions or shim out the action
I appreciate these videos as an MWS user 👍🤨
Worked perfectly fine ty!
Hey Ollie, just found this video!
Was great to meet you at NAF, I hope you had a good time.
Have you ever used a G&P Magic pin to resolve this kind of issue?
hey, ollie have you ever considered buying a hpa drum mag? I've been thinking about buying one but wanted someone else opinion before making the purchase.
check on the TM GBB discord group im sure a few people on there have got them, I think there may be a few brands now so they will have an opinion on the best one of the bunch.
@@OllieTalksAirsoft alright thanks!
I heard of two products that offer a solution and I wanted your opinion if you have one. The RA Tech magic pin which tightens the front pin inside the lower with an allen screw... or the Accuwedge which shims the rear pin.
Pretty funny, from last game my MTR16 get some wobble, could find any issue, so it seems, now after something over 40k rounds (Lost a bit track here, could also be even more) the wobble starts. Time to get some hairbands.
Witty witty😉👌👏👏👏
It's pretty normal for even real steel AR's to become loose and wobbly after a lot of takedown and use. Ask any boot
I'm going to try this fix on my ICS, maybe it's cheaper than a magic pin
Hello, can you help me about my TM Mk18 mod 1. When i shoot the BB doest come out from the barrel. Then i checked the hop up and saw that like zero. Then i adjust the hop up up a little bit (stop when i see the rubber inside the barrel) its working nomarlly. But after i shoots about 30 rounds. I hop up just come back to zero again. How can i fix that. Thank you
Hey Ollie short update from my past basement sessions:
Done everything with lubing what you told me to do. (Used the BB session to work it in.)
Again used 144a.
Tried again with a full load of gas waiting until the valves spits, then got out one complete Load and only bit more.
Watched your gg-mod video. Will try to lower mags and aggressively try to put everything in like in the vid :D. Maybe I will weight them!
Green gas is more resistent against temperature so better option how I understoood.
Would you say: „Test again with green gas! Don‘t worry about your nozzle spring“ Than have a look at your mags!“
I‘m afraid of punishing anything. If temperature drops would green gas be my „144a gas“ during hot summer? Or will I nevertheless put still more stress on my internals? Or is the power now ok when temperature is lower?
Nozzlespring upgrade before green gas use?
And now:
Hearing test: 3 of 5 mags having those minileaks. 2 completely ok. After that relubed from outside router and output valve again. I think I‘ts really nothing important. Little nano „blub“ sound. Won‘t effect anything I think. I will ignore and if everything fails I owned the Lees Precision O-Ring set for the mags. Another user told me that maybe the mechanics under the pusher item of the valve above has got good Funktion but valve below needs some lube. Maybe pushing those pins and take the work. …but first when I played first skirm 😅✌🏽
Some important questions:
What’s your experience with the T8 feedlips?
What brand for complete set/spare nozzle should I go? There are sets and only nozzle.
And what brand for nozzle spring? There is % giving, how many percent should I go for?
Have a nice day! Thank you for sharing your big experience and that you take your time for your community 😶🌫️😶🌫️😬😬🤘🏽🤘🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Josch
I'd say don't worry about using 144 gas and just use green gas. The best nozzle is the original TM one and the best aftermarket is the Guns Modify or the DP, as for return springs I'd keep it close to the 100% mark, you don't really need the 150% and above. T8 feed lips were ok, seemed to work well but it's best to have all of your mags the same so do one and you should try to do all of them.
Personally I'd say lubing or greasing the o rings with lithium should have them seal up nicely. Leave it on for a few hours before re-assembly so the o rings can expand and plump up a little.
Good luck 🤙
@@OllieTalksAirsoft The gas god has spoken. 😄🤘🏽 I will use that knowledge and work with it! Thank you 😊
Merry Christmas!
You too buddy ❤️
Awesome :) huge thnx :)
Lookin real drippy ollie
In my experience you shouldn’t do this mod. Yes the bands work in the short term. But they add a lot more friction and pressure on the pins and the receiver.
Once you take the rubber bands off, you’ll find that wobble has actually gotten worse.
So it’s okay if there’s a little wobble or some gaps here and there. besides, it’s the same way on the real guns. unless you’re extremely lucky or you spend thousands of dollars on a gun, there’s always gonna be some wobble
Man is looking more and more like a PMC from tarkov. 😂👍
haha you knows it 🤣
I use and old O-Ring :-D
After I done this
I have get some feeding problem
How can I fix it?
The gas key on the top of the bolt will be worn and need replacing. It's riding over the bbs and not punching them , I tank about this in the "mws knowledge drop" video.
Also use Geoff's BBs or excel/TM as they are smaller and feed better.
even rifles in the real world wobble... live with it lol :)
a few years a got an AR Saver but sadly it didn't fit, but no one likes wobble!
nice
bit cold nowadays eh ollie
😅 just a bit