DIY: WARNING! Watch This Before Re-Fitting Loose Or Squeaky Floorboards
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- Never nail or screw down loose floorboards without checking what's underneath them first. If floorboards are loose there may be pipes (gas or water) or electricity cables directly underneath.
Fantastic video. Real life TH-cam is the best. No cheery dystopia where everything works
Always! ATB, Des
Sound advice. I put a screw straight through a mains cable. My flat had no earth rod or RCD which meant a surge of electricity melted all the the internal wiring in my combi boiler. I ended up forking out for a full rewire and new combi boiler. Quite an expensive mistake to make.
So very sorry to hear about that mate. What a disaster. I know it's really corny and really annoying when people try and be philosophical (wait for it ...) but thank goodness you're still around to tell the tale buddy. Thanks for sharing. Take care, Des
Thanks so much for making this video, you helped me sort my dodgy hall floorboards and avoid a lot of stress!
Delighted to have helped my friend. Best wishes, Des
Makes a lot of sense in this video..got to be so careful!! Thank you for your help
Glad it was helpful! Des
Fantastic bud. I've got loads of floorboards I need to re fit as they are noisy and hardboard has been fitted over them and nailed about 10cm apart so about 100 nails per metre! Glad to see your still doing the videos, Dave (aspect security)
Hiya Dave. Great to hear from you my man. Hope you and yours are healthy and happy mate. You ought to upload some of your DIY jobs Dave. I'm sure they'd be really popular. Contact me if you fancy meeting up any time mate. Take care, Des
Thanks for the video, I'm having carpets refitted and the our upstairs is like a bloody trampoline with our floorboards so this video was exactly what I wanted to see, thanks alot.
My pleasure buddy. Glad it helped. Best wishes, Des
Nice to see you pre-drilling the boards, so many people would just drive the screw straight in and split all the boards, only thing i would have done in addition, is to drill a countersink for each screw head, puts less stress on the wood
Hi there. Fair enough. That would work even better. ATB, Des
Love your honesty in your videos pal. 👍🏾
No BS here buddy. Shooting straight from the hip! Lol. Take care, Des
Caveman does it again! thanks for the infinite wisdom on DIY buddy👍🏻 right off to sort my floor out😊
Any time my friend. Des
good work fella. A good tip is also to install Safe Plates which are galvanized metal plates that you put over the top of pipes and cables. You can get them at toolstation or S/fix.
Sounds like a great idea. Will check them out. Thanks for head's up mate. Des
Thanks for this. Were you adding a length of wood underneath? Be good to see a bit more on that & filling the gaps at the end.
Very neat and informative, thank you very much. Would be very useful to show what kind of screws you've used for the floor. Am interested in my case.
Please see link below. These are the only ones I use these days although you can get cheaper though. Basically, you need a wood screw about 50mm long and countersunk. The sharper the better. Even if they're very sharp and it states that you don't need to drill a pilot hole you will need to drill a pilot hole at the edge of the timber as it will almost certainly split. Not so important if not on the edges though. Hope this helps,
www.screwfix.com/p/turbo-silver-pz-countersunk-multipurpose-screws-4-x-50mm-200-pack/48145
Best wishes, Des
Legend, this has just been a huge help!
Delighted to hear that. Thanks for watching, Des
This was really useful! Going to check out some more for sure!
Glad it was helpful!.. Stay safe and well, Des
Good Tips Mark and Describe And Position of Screws
Helps to prevent unnecessary tears my friend and works well for me. Caution is necessary when you're working so close to water pipes. ATB, Des
Thank you ....I learnt a lot from this video and it’s helped my confidence to have a go at a similar problem I’ve got 👍
Great to hear! Best of luck my friend, Des
Ive had similar nightmares. Ive seen areas on your example where multiple boards have been removed in one location. The tongue and grove is mostly gone when you remove boards. Ive used ply in many areas like these as it reduces the fixiing points and gives lesst chance of squeek spots of nipping of services...
Thank you sooo much for this video I was stressed but this has made it easier and I now know what to do
You are so welcome! It's quite scary pulling up floorboards and seeing all those pipes and wires underneath. Just concentrate, take your time and you'll be fine. Best wishes, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 you are fantastic keep up with these very informative videos truly grateful I was frustrated and you made all that go away stay safe and stay blessed thanks again
Good content and presentation, cheers.
Glad it was helpful! Des
Just watching this before I attempt the exact same in my house, except have to do the whole upstairs, same size room as that and the landing and a large bedroom! Thanks for the advice !
Good luck with the job mate. Hope it turned out OK. Fingers crossed, Des
Great vid, you changed my mind about screwing some boards down through the carpet. I see that that could be catastrophic.
Plse don't even think about it. It will end in tears. ATB, Des
I need to do this exact same thing with some loose floorboards in the upstairs bedrooms of a house i've just bought, then i'm thinking of sanding and polishing them (put a rug over instead of carpets), hoping you'll do a video on that!
Hi there. Sopunds like a great idea. I've already done that myself in a previous property but no plans to do it in the future. Sorry! Best wishes, Des
Great work mate... very good and informative video....
My pleasure. Des
thanks for the video, very informative!
My pleasure, Des
Have a few boards i need to replace. Never done it before so some good advice here. Would never have thought about marking on top of the new boards where any pipes or wires are.
No problem 👍 Des
Very helpful video. Thanks.
You're welcome!
I'm marking the route of cables on the boards so it will be obvious in future as some are in cut channels in the top of the joists immediately covered by the floorboards.
Great idea buddy. I do exactly the same thing. ATB, Des
Excellent video! What type of screws do you use? Cheers
Here we go buddy:
www.screwfix.com/p/turbo-silver-pz-double-countersunk-multipurpose-screws-4mm-x-50mm-200-pack/48145
I think the floor was previously worked on by bodgit and scarper. I had the same problem. I had just repaired my bathroom floor with new floorboards. I screwed them down and they looked great. I later had new central heating installed and the so-called tradesmen that installed it ripped the boards up with a crowbar and destroyed every board they took up.
Unfortunately, this is an all too common occurrence. Many simply couldn't give a damn. I would be furious myself. Stay safe and well, Des
Same here, had a rewire - now got 1920s floorboards in 4 pieces, lumps in carpet where they've left wood splinters. Can't buy those size boards anymore.
@@myriampontague8824 You don't need to get the same size floorboards, as long as it's a large enough area you can replace a set with different sized boards.
Thanks (new home owner!)
My pleasure. Congrats on your new home. These days that's a significant achievement indeed. Be proud. Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 stuck on the rental market is the hardest thing. You earned my subscription, my drill set comes can't wait to get some more diy'ing
Good luck with everything my friend. Sounds like you deserve it. Best wishes, Des
Thanks guv. Very helpful.
My pleasure buddy. Des
Chances are dodgy pipework like that is noisy and banging all over the place. I'd be tempted to lag them if you've got the boards up.
The state of those T&G boards . I would rip it all out and put new chipboard down . Would look nicer and no trouble from creaks and carpet will lay flat.
Thanks from OCB.
Thanks simple common sense my good man
Thank you. Indeed! ATB, Des
Made the mistake of screwing plywood down without checking, straight into a copper central heating pipe! Wish I'd watched this first...
For what it's worth mate we've all done it at some point. But the beauty of that is most of us have never done it again! Take care my friend, Des
Interesting to watch your video -- your floorboards appear to be identical to the ones I have. I am about to screw down the floorboards I have and am interested to know what screws you used and what screw bits you used; as I have screwed down identical floorboards in another room but found the boards cracked/split when screwing the screws. I did try pre-drilling but this was time consuming and also found that the screw bits I used only lasted for about 15 screws before the screw bit became rounded as when the screw head came into contact with the floorboard, they became quite tough to countersink into the board.
Hi there and thanks very much for your comments. I understand exactly where you're coming from.
In the past, if I needed to screw down floorboards, or anything actually, I used to go straight to my favourite tupperware container full of old screws, nails and all sorts of crap. I had no idea what type they were or what they were for - as far as I was concerned they were screws and would surely do the job? Not so. Like yourself, I ended up splitting the ends of wood and damaging whatever it was that I was trying to fix. However, in recent years I've learned my lesson - use the appropriate fixture for the job in hand. If you want to secure timber, for example, use a wood screw. So simple it's actually embarrassing to admit that I didn't 'get it' and simply thought that someone was trying to con me out of buying something I didn't actually need. So, to answer your questions:
Now, I always buy screws with countersunk heads and tend to go for the ones that don't need pre-drilling. They cost a bit more but are far more effective and actually do the job properly. However, if I'm screwing down floorboards I always drill a pilot hole first as I know that they will almost certainly split the wood as it's so near to the end of the timber. I also make sure that I get a reasonable length screw of around 60mm or so to make sure that I can actually hit the joist and have plenty of length to anchor the screw and keep it there. This is especially important in older properties where the joists may be different sizes, hacked to bits and warped. In this vid I used the following which are a little expensive:
www.screwfix.com/p/turbo-silver-pz-double-countersunk-multipurpose-screws-5-x-60mm-100-pack/25456
However, I'm sure you could get away with something a little cheaper.
Regarding the drill bits, I use these and they serve me well but there may be better and cheaper out there:
smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MSMCWP8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&th=1
If you buy drill bits suitable for 'impact drivers' they'll stand the test of time and last for ages.
Hope this helps, Des
I wanted to ask a question please, I had carpet removed and new engineered wood flooring put on top of old floor boards. I was told by the contractor that the squeaky floor boards couldnt be fixed only to see this video, consequently i now have brand new engineered wood squeaky floors. I presume the only way to fix this is to have the new floor lifted and this job done that you have just demonstrated. Please advise?
Hi there and thanks for dropping by. Firstly, I must make it clear that I am not a qualified joiner / carpenter/builder. However, I do know that floor boards squeak because wood is rubbing together. This could be a few reasons, i.e., floorboards not fixed properly as in this vid, rotten joists which move around when walked upon, which in turn will cause the floorboards to rub together and squeak. In a nutshell, most of these squeaks can be fixed but it requires some prep work which may include removing / replacing existing boards and sometimes the joists underneath. This can be time consuming and expensive especially if you hire someone else to do the job for you. Over time, squeaks may reappear but probably from other areas unless you haven't done a proper job first time round. It is therefore NOT true to say that they cannot be repaired as I have done this many times myself and got a great result even though I am an amateur. Perhaps the contractors didn't want to get involved with the repair work? All I know, is that you appear to have been misled and I'm really sorry to hear that you are understandably disappointed with your new floor. Personally, I'd be extremely annoyed. There may , of course, be other factors regarding your floor that I am not aware of which may have driven their advice to you but unless it is out of the ordinary then the information you have been given seems rather dodgy to me. Hope this helps, Des
I need to do a very similar job. What diameter/length screws are you using? When inserting a hole prior to screwing in the screw, how wide do you make the hole? Do you use special type of screws? People say to use floorboard screws? Thx.
Hello there. I tend to use 50mm wood screws or thereabouts. Even if they're supposed to be self-tapping (i.e. no pilot hole required) I always drill a pilot hole anyway because boards do tend to split being so close to the edge of the timber. I use a 3mm drill bit to make the pilot hole. Being so small they do tend to be a bit fragile though so you need to be a little careful. Hope this helps. Des
my floorboards of upstair one bedroom done other left to do another day
one bedroom have been screwed down
but now when i sit downstair under the room thats not been done yet
i hear creeky sound of the roof structure every 5/10 minutes any reason why?
thanks for this video very helpfull
You're welcome, Des
What do you do if there isn't a joist to drill into? or if there's only one side where it's safe to drill - such as if a pipe runs along where the other joist should be?
Drill a short screw through your board at an angle into a board parallel to it, and you can put a small bracket over the seam to brace it together more.
The bad thing is that when these idiots pull up a board to put a pipe or wires in they break the tongue of the board and usually this damages the board next to it. Also when I fit a new board back in I cut the tongue off as this makes it easier to fit. Keep the videos coming. 👍
I refitted the floorboard in my bathrooms which were rubbing against each other and causing squeaking and groaning. They were in a terrible state, I was amazed how careless the previous workmanship was. A bit like the boards in the video. Work had been done before for piping and wiring. I guess alot of first time diyers do a terrbible first job but even the professionals can be sloppy. Happily my boards don't squaek anymore, It was painstaking work. Every board had to be removed and reset to stop them rubbing against each other.
Agree with your sentiments entirely. Sounds like you did a great job sorting this issue though. Respect, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 sorry forgot to say, love your video
Thank you. Very best wishes, Des
Your videos are brill :)
Glad you like them! Des
Good video, thank you. some videos don’t warn about potential pipe and cable damage. Did you use any particular type of screw to tighten down the floor boards, or will any do?
Hi John. Please read through the other comments where I address similar questions. Thanks, Des
Do you have an suggestions for floorboards that squeak after screwing them down?
When i bought my house alot squeaked so i screwed down every floorboard in the house. A couple years on they have started again. Would the screws need tighting or would i be something else?
Hi there, timber squeaks when it rubs against another piece of timber. There could be a few reasons but the most likely one is that they simply need tightening as you have suggested. Obviously wood expands and contracts and there may be movement in a property which may all contribute to the screws working loose and / or the timber degrading thus losing it's grip on the screws. Try tightening them, or using fatter screws and / or longer screws. That should do it. Best wishes, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 thanks for the reply des. Fatter screws is a good idea.
If I'm laying carpet after, I always mark where wires or pipes are under floor.
Shouldn’t those electrical cables run through the joists?
Old houses and buildings regulations change all the time.
Thanks
No problem
informative, many thanks.
Thank you for watching and for your time. ATB, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 :-)
Thank you for your help. I do most of my DIY as I live alone I would have probably electrocuted myself had I have not seen this video 😳😳😳 or burst a pipe somewhere!!!!!
You are so welcome! Des
Whats the name of the extension used in your impact driver?
Looks like a DeWalt 50mm Impact bit. Pz2 I’d expect (standard UK Screw head). These go straight into your impact driver rather than needing a bit holder.
Btw did this fix your squeaky floors?
Yes it did Mr K. Spot on. ATB
How would one relay the carpet afterwards?
Hi there. I've covered this in other videos. Plse check them out. Thanks, Des
Never touch wires
ANYONE KNOW WHAT THEY USE THESE DAYS....I have a similar upstairs floor. Do they use chipboard boards if you replace the floor. Is chipboard in newer upstairs houses?
Thanks for this! Great idea about marking. Will be sure to ask the trades to do this on future projects, if they lift boards! When screws do you use? I have found wood screws often split the boards.
My pleasure. Many wood screws will split the boards especially as you typically screw very near the edges. I would always recommend drilling pilot hole first, even for those screws where no pilot hole stipulated. ATB
@@21stcenturycaveman33 ok thanks! And what screws did you use? 5x50mm?
Hi there. 50mm would be best for 18mm floorboards (especially old floors because joists can be a little uneven and chopped about) Defo no shorter than 40mm. Take care, Des
I would have just replaced the floor. Couldn't stand knowing all that crap was under there. I would have also put the correct joist repair plates in and checked for other surprises. Never seen 15mm copper heating pipe used as impromptu cable trunking before!
Thanks for the insights! I ripped up my carpet and have a lot of nice 100 year old creaky floor boards I have sanded and want to polyurethane. I get that screws really hold, but might not be as aesthetic. Are there any advantages to nailing? Going to thumbs up and subscribe to support your interesting channel! Happy 2022!
Thanks very much indeed for your support - appreciated. The only advantages of nailing that I can think of are that certain types of nail allow you to pretty much conceal the nail head and also that they may, to some, appear more rustic. Other than that I think that's about it to be honest. Take care and best wishes, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 Thanks Des! That's very helpful!
Nothing new mate, these electricians and plumbers lift floorboards and never put back properly. Pure laziness 😡
That much is truefor sure! ATB
I'm a plumber and it pisses me off seeing this, I always try to bore holes through the joist instead of notching to avoid this problem all together
I reckon a lot of tradespeople do this on purpose in order to force you to call them back, discover "a new issue" and charge you extra to fix it...
Common problem with older houses, where the pipes and wires have been laid through notches in joists. Which was normal practice.. A tradesman’s job is to put back boards as well as possible, with as little damage as can be helped. Those are tongue and groove boards, you can’t simply lift them up (like normal boards) or run a blade through the edges to free them up safely.
You have to also consider cost implications. As a plumber, I’ll do my best to make good the places where I’ve been. It’s not my job however to properly fit and secure the entire floor. Many times customers say they will sort it out themselves, they’ll replace a few of the broken boards if necessary. Whether they do that after you leave - that’s on them so it’s not always a case of blaming the trades. Too often a carpet is going back down, so as long as the boards aren’t in danger of flipping up/through again customers are often not phased. People prefer to save money and do some of the work themselves where possible. Not always of course lol, but often.
@@Anakinuk007
I would have thought most customers would like far more than you are ever prepared to do and pay far less than you would want 😂😁👍
Where do you go to get the boards from and cut to size?
How to I replace upstairs bathroom flooring? Wouldn't it be hazardous falling down to the first floor?
Hi there, please see below:
th-cam.com/video/Su25RPQ0ntU/w-d-xo.html
But be cautious:
th-cam.com/video/0jUq7xHNsdM/w-d-xo.html
Hi great useful video can you tell me what screws you used? I was going to use decking screws 🤔
Hi there and thanks for dropping by. From memory I used 50mm Turbo Silver screws purchased from Screwfix. These are very sharp screws and you don't normally need a pilot hole. However, you will need to drill pilot holes when securing floorboards because you're working close to the end of the boards and they WILL split. Another downside is the cost - they are a quality screw but they do cost more than some others. You can use decking screws and I've done so many times in the past. Essential that you drill pilot holes first though and you will need countersunk. Best wishes, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 Thankyou Des thats great!
Iv got the same problem in my bedrooms they not floor boards but that big square boards and parts of the boards are quecking am yet to put down carpet can u advice please I had new radiators fitted in bedrooms but the builders just foamed the holes
Hello there and thanks for watching. The boards are squeaking because the edges of the boards are rubbing together. This is because the fixings (e.g. nails or screws) have lost their anchor. If they bounce when you walk on them it may also be because the timber joists are rotten. However, it's probably just a case of screwing them down more thoroughly but please be careful what's underneath and make sure you are screwing into the joists underneath. I would also suggest putting a bead of flexible frame sealant on the edges of the boards where they butt together. Hope this helps. ATB, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 would using the glue gun be any good as I said previously the builders put foam in which I wasn't really happy with
Hi again. If, by a glue gun, you mean a hot melt gun then no. If you mean a cartridge gun which you squeeze with a trigger and the glue comes out of the tube then yes - absolutely. Personally, I wouldn't be too concerned with the expanding foam as this can be cut back and will ensure no draughts through the holes.It may also prevent pipes banging a little. Just cut flat to the floor with something like a stanley knife or similar and it should be fine mate. ATB, Des
Found out the hard way cut straight through a gas pipe today
Damn! Bet that was scary mate. I would have been bricking it.Hope it got sorted and everyone safe. Take care. Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 Yeah had to call the fire brigade they came and shut the gas off and an engineer is coming tomorrow to fix it so it should be fine
MiNz how much did that cost you? Lol
Thank you for this - very helpful! Do you have any tips for draft proofing/filling the gaps in-between the boards and what to use? Thanks!
Josh, get yourself some flexible frame sealant, apply to the gaps, tool with a wet trowel or scraper. Job done. You just need something to smooth out the sealant. If you wet the blade (steel or plastic - it doesn't matter) the job will be easier. Piece of cake. This will work a treat mate. ATB, Des
Great thanks will give that a go. Followed your video tonight for repairing the floorboards and it worked brilliantly! No more squeaking or lifting floorboards! Thanks 🙌🏻
Delighted to hear that Josh. Best wishes buddy.
What did you use to fill the cracks after they had all been screwed down ?
Hi there. Flexible frame sealant finished with a wet spatula. Worked a treat. ATB, Des
I used paper mache for large gaps, then caulk when thats dry, that was followed by Rustoleum chalky floor paint, looks like a brand new floor now
Did you drill brand new holes then screw through them or did you use self tapping screws?
Hi there. Drilled new holes first as the wood would split otherwise. ATB, Des
Hi im putting some new floorboards now but having trouble with one. All the screws go in no problem apart from two. They just keep on turning im using 40mm screws what do u recommend. Any yes m screwing into the joists?
Hi Matt. You need longer screws my friend. ATB, Des
Great video, did you put a baton between? Also I'm just wondering what you do if there is nothing to fix a screw to?
Hiya Chris, if there's nothing obvious to screw into you need to add something to enable this. Preferably you will need to add a baton(s). If this is not possible because you've got nothing to secure the baton to then you will have to remove enough timber flooring in immediate area and replace with a single or larger piece to spread the load if that makes sense. This in itself will probably reveal joists which you can attach to and add supports if necessary. Stay safe and well, Des
Ah brill thanks
So what did you do with the ones that were left loose deliberately (1.35) because of the cables/pipes underneath? Was any work needed to be done with those cables/pipes?
Hi there. The ones that were deliberately left loose were fixed into place. If there wasn't anything to screw into I fixed battens to existing joists and screwed into those. All boards were fitted back. ATB, Des
My 2 bedroom upstairs sqeaking all over
Both rooms, if you step out the bed every one downstairs hear you also the staircase is the same thing will this method fix my problem since it's the entire house ? Or any other suggestions will help ,oh its wood floor with carpet thanks inadvance for your reply
Hi there. I'm assuming it's an older property? Squeaks occur when the edges of boards rub together because they are not secured properly or the fixings have come away and do not anchor the boards properly. This is a time consuming task but this method will work just fine. The stairs could be a tricky one because to sort them out effectively you really need to be able to access the underside of the stairs which is normally very difficult. As per my video, before banging in any nails or screws check first. Hope this helps, Des
Squeaking can also be caused by boards bowing horizontally (across their narrower size breadths).
Did you use any particular type of screws?
Hi there. Some decent quality countersunk wood screws from Screwfix. ATB, Des
daymn... i feel sea sick.
Yeah same here, why is that?
What screws you use, always thought was best to hammer nails in?
Hi there. Personally, I dont like using nails because they split the wood and they are more difficult to retrieve. It also causes more damage to the timber lifting it again. Use wood screws but drill a pilot hole first. ATB, Des
I’m after a pair of cargo shorts like that ,, were they from Debenhams ?
So sorry - can't remember. Des
What size screws are you using please
Hi there. 50mm. Des
21st Century Caveman great video got the same problem myself
Wow, I thought my floors sucked.
How thick are those floorboards?
About 18mm. Des
Such shoddy crap workmanship people have to put right.Plain laziness!
You're right. Inexcusable . ATB, Des
NOOICE!
Thanks buddy. Hope you're well. Des
Are you filming in my new house?
Just getting it ready for you buddy. Want it to be spot on when you move in. ;?)
What is the block of wood at 8:23 for?
Hi there. This was a piece of timber I cut to act as a batten to secure the floor board too. Des
Bedroom? No offence to the author but this always winds me up when you see properties advertising a room like this as a bedroom. Useful for a nursery for an infant but they are outgrowing that space in a couple of years. Potential for a small office or walk in closet perhaps but nothing more
Hiya buddy. I referred to it as a 'bedroom' because that's what it's called here in the UK! So not trying to glorify this mediocre space at all. I do, however, entirely agree that despite it's label it's far too small and impractical for it's intended use. My partner uses it as a craft room but the uses you have suggested are really common. Best wishes and thanks for dropping by. Des
Only problem with permanent marker is if the wife decides on stained floorboards.
Point well made Sir. That needs to be determined well in advance!
would have installed new boards to them lifted up anyway
Those cables should be min 50mm down through joist. Some seriously poor and unsafe work done in the past....
No surprises there mate. Stay safe and well, Des
What barbarian put wires and water pipes directly under the floor boards with only a notch? Is this how codes and standards work in the UK?
Hiya Matt. Unfortunately, this sort of discovery is all too common buddy. Just a typical example of cowboy operators. Really poor job. Take care, Des
wow those notches are WAY over-stuffed with power lines and there are no nail guards. That is NOT GOOD. You are hiding a serious fire problem that you have revealed.
Hi there. Unfortunately, here in the UK most pf the stuff is like this. ATB, Des
Chap, I've just watched you cut out a floorboard with a full-depth jigsaw without checking for cables or pipes.
Hi there buddy. Not sure what video you were watching buddy but it's definitely not this one! No jigsaw in this clip. Also, I never cut through any flooring unless I check for cables or pipes beforehand which is the whole point of these vids. Thanks for dropping by. ATB, Des
good idea to mark floor boards
Agree. Someone else's thoughtfulness has helped me in the past and helped me out tremendously. Pass it on, that's what I say. ATB, Des
good to see a drill driver used and not an impact I was on site the other day and every one was using impact so noisy and bad practice
Hiya buddy. Everyone seems to have one these and I can understand why to vbe honest - I use one myself. However, as you say they are noisy and can be very distracting to be fair. have a great weekend my friend. Des
such bad work not put down right