Home Depot has subfloor screws by Grip-Rite, GRK. Lowe’s has squeak no more and Menards has Grip Fast. They just call them subfloor screws. They almost look like deck screws. As always great videos. Love the enthusiasm and great attitude. You’re a great instructor as well.
Can you do a vid on how to fix bouncy floors. I have a house in the states in NJ built in 1906 and I have a bow on some floors and a bad bounce in them
Hello from newfieland. I just read through 30+ comments. No drama or garbage. Great to see there are still great channels out there. Thanks for the content
As a retired Engineer, I cannot believe how many times I have come across this channel, watched his advice and information, nodded my head in complete agreement, and said to myself, "This guy would have made a hell of an Engineer!". Straight forward information, great explanations of the reasons, and simple effective solutions.
I've got a townhouse that is only 14 yrs. old and we have squeaks up the wazoo. This info will help me fix the floors myself without having to hire a handyman. As a woman, I really appreciate all of your step by step instructions. You are helping to make my renovation more accessible and convenient for me so I don't have to pay to have help doing basics. Thank you!!
Another woman taking charge.. lol...I usually get strange looks by everyone when I’m on a job site with my dad..I’m 42 and 5’ tall but work circles around most the guys lol..I love this kind of work...it’s so satisfying seeing the end results...I’ve also taught myself how to work on my vehicle...some pretty major things too..replaced the entire front end..ball joints control arms struts tie rods everything...talk about a huge pain! But a sledge hammer and a torch helps greatly when u gotta use muscle u don’t have lol...as for working on a building...if ur ripping things out...grab the big sledge hammer...so much quicker and easier and less chance of hurting urself..lol...I learned that the hard way lol
My townhouse was built in 2010. Squeeks after a few years. Redid the flooring in 2018 upstairs. Tons of nails where sticking up. A few boxes of screws later, and it was quiet.
the GRK R4's are the best subfloor screw I have found. star drive, self tapping tip, and they countersink super clean without tearing the OSB and ballooning the surface up. the head is also grooved on the back to increase positive contact and friction.
We just bought a 1966 townhouse with an upper floor that squeaks like crazy! I'm putting this video into my research file for when we eventually remodel! Thank you!
There are screws you can get that go through the carpet then break off the head but I'm not sure how well the hold since have no head. Designed to go through carpet so you don't need to remove it
flooring screws have a coarse thread (to add strength) and are coated to avoid squeaks. I never thought of deck screws as an alternative, which are readily available. Thanks for the tip.
I don't think many in USA use subfloor screws even thought they do exist. I used deck screws. One tip is don't tighten the screw down like crazy or you will pull the floor. Just sink the screw a little bit. I am in the middle of putting down 2 layers of 3/4 pine. I used a planer in one are to make it even using a 6 foot level as I went.
There’s Squeak-No-More screws that can be used without removing flooring. They have threads with different patterns that draw the subfloor and flooring together.
You are a genius! I love the way you envision everything before you do it - taking everything into consideration (hence, Reno-VISION). After watching one of your previous videos I renovated my old RV using your techniques - it was my first time installing new flooring - and it turned out amazing! Keep it up my man - you are helping out SO many people!
In march 2021 I bought a house that was built in 1968 and my wife and I wanted all new carpet put in bedrooms and floating luxury vinyl in the living spaces. I got to work tearing out the old carpet and I discovered that I had a half inch plywood subfloor with a half in particle sheeting stapled down to it. This floor was insanely soft squishy and screamed bloody murder no matter where you walked. It flexed everywhere and there were so many staples it rubbed on. My heart sank a bit because this meant I would have to forever live with the squeaks which isn't even an option if you ask me or tear up all the particle board which was about 1500sq ft. Which I did, that also meant I removed all the the baseboards, door trim, doors and door frames. Then I came back with the 3/4" tongue and groove plywood purchased at record high prices (I was just grateful it was even available to purchase) and laid it over the original 1/2 plywood. Totaling 1 1/4 inch subfloor. I used 2 1/2 construction screws and my impact to fasten all of this down to the floor joist. My impact drill was smoking hot and cant believe it still works. Now when you walk around my house it is so solid you would think it was a concrete slab. Now I am always overkill when I do big projects like this. Anyone else would have just done 1/2 or maybe 5/8 sheeting like you see in this video, but you can see how much it flexes when he steps on it. How anything less than 3/4" is standard practice is beyond me. He steps on it and it flexes, the way I did it with 3/4" tongue and groove over the original 1/2" sheeting it feels like you could park a truck on it. Anyone with a house built in the mid 60's to 70's that has that particle board crap I feel for you, but to me there's no way else to fix it other than replacement.
1 and 1/4 inch flooring is commercial grade flooring! Glad that you took out the particle board. I think the video shows 24 inch spacing between joists. It flexes too much!
Renovating a 1969 home in Michigan . Main floor is 2x8 joists and am in the middle of sistering all of them up with LVL to hold porcelain tile. Ripped out all hardwood and next will be doing exactly this to the original subfloor to get rid of all squeaks before laying another layer of 3/4" ply (perpendicular to the lower sub floor) on top. I found 'Grip-Rite' screws at Home Depot that are recommended as floor screws for anyone looking. Can't wait to see these next videos - thank you!
Jeff, I'd just like to heap upon you all the synonyms for thanks, gratitude and appreciation, in order to thank you for all the knowledge you share... yet, even then, I don't think they'd be adequate. My wife and I finally got a nice little house with "good bones" that we want to renovate, bit by bit, just as we like, with our own hands (it's just sooooooo satisfying!) and your wisdom is priceless!!! Thanks to you, we do most every job with far greater accuracy, skill and quality than ... well, I shudder to think what sort of work we'd have done without it. Thank you seems so weak but, with immeasurable gratitude, I thank you!!!!
Thanks for the confirmation that we did it right! A few years ago, we replaced all of the main floor flooring (mainly cheap carpet and tile) in our late 80's home with hardwood and upgraded tile. After the removal of the old stuff, my son and I drove thousands of floor screws into the subfloor to try to get rid of the squeaks. We probably went a little overboard, driving them every 4 to 6 inches, and marking the joists with string to make sure we didn't miss, but I didn't want to find out after the new stuff was installed that we hadn't put enough in. Fortunately, it worked. The floors are much, much quieter.
That's exactly what my brother and I did. We went through a couple of buckets of flooring screws. Murder on the knees but the silent floors are well worth it.
@@SR-te2db Assuming the OSB didn't get wet or mouldy, suffer fire damage or have a meteor fall through it, it doesn't go bad, so I wouldn't replace it, esp at today's prices. If the subfloor is of a certain era where they used nails and no PL400 adhesive on the tops of the floor joists, as you walk on those floors the OSB will flex (called deflection) and the nails will move. Squeak. The first thing to do (after you've taken up the carpet or whatever flooring you have in those BRs) is to find where the floor joists run, snap chalk lines, and screw the living shyt along those lines. As Ray says above, every 4-6 inches. Cordless drill and knee pads are you friend. That might solve it. If it doesn't, what I've done for clients with flexing OSB or plywood subfloors is I have installed blocking between the floor joists (every 16 inches, if necessary but you could probably get away with every 24 inches). This assumes you have access from below (ie unfinished basement ceiling). I usually use dimensional lumber of the same size as the floor joists. Make your cut for a snug fit, squeeze some PL400 on to the top of the blocking, knock it in with a hammer, use a speed square to make sure it sits squarely between the joists, then drive three 3-inch screws through the floor joists into each end of the blocking. Then go back upstairs and install more floor screws through the subflooring into the new blocking. Yes, it's work. But for my money the silent floors are worth it.
Also, I really appreciate all of your videos. You make it understandable to me. I just remodeled our powder room. Totally gutted it down to the studs and made board and batten walls for my wife's farmhouse style. It looks amazing and I never would have had the confidence to tackle it before watching your videos. Thank you!
Just moved into an older house about 6 months ago. Hired a flooring company to redo practically the whole house and I specifically told them to do this. After the flooring was all installed, I noticed that there were still god awful squeaks all over. Flooring guy said they tried but used up all their screws. Can't tell you how mad I've been as now I have to live with the squeaks for who knows how many years .... unless these next few videos are going to give me a way to fix it (and I hope that's the case!). We have vinyl flooring by the way. Great videos and just wanted to say thanks for all your great videos. You help guys like me who never had anyone teach me these things so know that it is appreciated. Been a subscriber ever since I bought my home. Cheers!
Jeff, your videos are great and thanks to you I am going to save a lot of $$$... I am 62 but when I watch your videos I feel 26 again .... proud to be Canadian !! 💪
Great job explaining this Jeff! Not only did you talk about it, but you show people it actually happening. I'm getting ready to fix the 50 -year-old sub-floor in the Montana home I bought before plan to put new flooring and carpet in. The original owner tried fixing the sub-floor by nailing a particle board floor onto the existing floor. Of course that didn't fix the problem because he didn't bother to screw the top floor through the old floor to the joists! Now I have to pull all that crap off and redo it! Anyway, thanks for the passion and explanations in your videos. Keep up the good work sir and warm regards from MT!
When i installed a hardwood floor I used subfloor adhesive to bond it to the subfloor and carpenters glue in the tong and groove. It was a lot of extra work but the entire floor is a solid monolith. No squeaks there.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Until the electrician comes in and wants the floor up to run cables... A minute with an impact driver (if it were screwed down) turns into a huge pain in the ass.
@@nateislate5551 If using decking screws to secure the subfloor to floor joists, than the adhesive is overkill. Nails cause squeaks over time and pull out, so the adhesives help. With screws, you avoid all of those problems. Using star bit decking screws and a plug-in ~9amp powered (mixing) drill makes the job easier and keeps you from burning out your smaller drills/drivers like I did! Still not a single squeak over all 2,000 sq ft :)
No future flooring job in the near future but I love to learn. You helped me install my first a several other renovation projects. I get better with each project and your videos are to thank. Hands down the best channel to learn from. Thank you
We live in a late 1950's house with floors that have some squeaks, in fact once in awhile we will feel a nail through the carpet. I looked in the basement and notice that we have pretty solid 2X10's placed 16 inches on centre and 9 inch wide tongue and groove planks, 3/4 inch thick, nailed on the diagonal for a sub floor. I'm guessing that's pretty solid and when we replace the old flooring all we have to do is take Jeff's advice in this video. Thanks Jeff, you do great work.
Whoever dislikes these videos are bums. Thanks for being so informative Jeff! Looking forward to eventually renovating/remodeling a home following your tips.
Man, your videos are so good. I knew good carpenters could fix such issues, but the way you have to explain is just awesome. Everything starts to make sense.
Used to work in construction as an electrician when I was frech out of school (collage? , don't know how you say it) ... Yeah, I had a few on each hand 🖐️ 😂
Perfect timing! We are about to replace subfloor made of particle board in one of the rooms. Need to cut all around the walls and remove existing sheets. Can’t wait to hear from you how to do it. You are awesome!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Thank you so much! How to make a straight cut along the wall and not to cut/damage supporting beam/stud ? We found 1 saw, it’s a newer product that cut straight along the wall, but it little expensive. Or should we use Sawzall? but the cut might be not that straight and we can cut supporting joist. Regular electric circular saw does not go flash with the wall. We will have to use it with an angle.
You are a life saver 🙏 My parents have a 99year old house here in Chicago and it’s a brick house but the flooring is so old I be thinking the house flooring will come down one of this days and I been getting interested in these videos and getting the inspire to go for a course of flooring to get my license so I can do my parents flooring and your videos are easy simple and show by detail and explains why… love it thanks
Dear Jeff: Thank you. Your videos are making me smarter and seeing how many subscribers you have confirms that your expertise is well received. Liked and subscribed my friend.
I just went though a floor package rebuild in an older home. Lots of work but came out great. Used lots of your (and others) youtube videos for help. Along with a pail (5000) flooring screws and some joist hangers. Gotta love those "handyman" specials who cut through the meat of the material with a 2" hole saw to run a 1/2" water pipe and a couple of electrical cables...which then rots completely with a 20 year bathroom leak...
Senco sells “subfloor” screws in the states. Couldn’t find them in the big box office stores “IE Hime Depot / Lowe’s” but found it no problem is most lumber yard stores, and always on Amazon.
Good video. I am a framer and in production carpentry we still use pneumatic nailers as our main fastening system for subfloor. However we use ring shank nails which mimic the effects of a flooring screw quite well without the wasted time of screwing down every single sheet.
What about if carpet is over the floors or stairs but also squeaks? Can’t screw through the carpet. Cut nails and glue from underneath? Any other suggestions?
They're usually called deck screws in the US, but sometimes you can find "construction screws" with a smooth section of shank. You also have to be careful because sometimes they sell "deck screws" that are laminating screws (top section of the shank has coarser threads instead of no threads)!
I just did this step. I found several places where the squeaks were coming from the two layers of sub floor flexing. In those cases I put in a grid of screws spaced 6-8 inches apart to basically get the two sub-floor layers acting like one layer. No squeaks and much less flex underfoot!
Having a similar issue myself. Did you use the screws the video demonstrates or another type? How are they holding up? My squeaks are coming from the top layer subfloor where the sheets meet/flex, which are between the joists.
I used 2x10s on 16 centers with Liquid Nail on the joists to glue the 3/4 plywood subfloor. Then I ran 3/4 plywood on top of that the opposite way so not parallel but perpendicular with Liquid Nail between the two. Then put float vinyl finished floor on that. No squeaking. The Liquid Nail holds everything in place for no movement. Oh yeah and I used rim shank nails from a nail gun for the plywood.
Wow! Man you are good! In fact the best I have ever come across when it comes to explaining about renovation and building methodologies. Your explanations are detailed and yet explained very simply. You are really God gifted in your profession and bestowed with an excellent sense of humour and oratory skills/ skills of verbal articulation.
Literally did this yesterday, didn't see any floor screws. Used general construction screws, worked well. I did however find a rotted floor joist near the front entrance... gota figure that out now.
I'm in the process of flattening my subfloor in a 60 year old house in preparation for LVP. Can't wait to see what I messed up or wasted my time and money on as there's no way my wife will let me hold out for the entire series to be released!
Okay, I’m not a construction guy. Just a homeowner that does diy around the house. Can you please decipher what you just wrote. I understand what you mean by “2x10 Douglas fir 16 OC” but nothing after that. Thanks!
Our house built in 1987....nailed subfloor on 14 inch floor trusses....When we recently replaced carpet I put in 2 inch deck screws every 12 inches throughout the house....this took three days but solved the problem...the deck screw did the job
I have a circa 2010 bungalow in Edmonton Alberta and the floors are horrible. The issue is the floating laminate hardwood that was used. I questioned at the time of installation not nailing or glueing it down and the contractor said they couldn't warranty the product if installation wasn't done as specked. The entire house floor squeaks all over and it's become pointless to try to sneak out. lol. Thanks for your vids.
In the states there is a brand called squeak no more, whose screw head can be removed after installation, making a more discreet installation. Saved my floor, thought finding the joists was a pain.
I used these over a year ago and some of them have come back up. The snapped off head started hitting bare feet so I had to remove a couple of them. You can find the old nails using super strong neodymium magnets. One you find the lines from a couple of nails you can mark out the line of where they should be. I did this through carpet and underlay.
I’ve used these with mixed results. There meant to fix squeaks and noises under finished carpet. If you have unfinished flooring or are removing the existing floor covering, I would waste my money on them. What I found they fixed some of the noises and created others, just shifted loads and the source of the sound. If you can, remove the oiled floor covering, use floor screws, deck screws and reattach the whole floor.
Just dealt with a frustrating 2nd floor screeching on a 3/4 plywood floor on several spots (house built in 1990, California)....wasn’t the 2” staples they used. Come to find out it was the hardback running through the 24” OC manufactured floor joists rubbing against the joists (wood on metal/wood on wood). Had to rip out a couple panels to see what the heck was going on. The hardback was installed sub par just to pass the inspection. I could tell the previous owner tried to rectify the noise with nails but missed the mark. BTW, I really like your channel/videos...keep it going!
I am working on my subfloors now. I looked for screws specifically labeled as floor or sub-floor screws but didn't find any. We have drywall, deck and construction screws. I am using #8, torx head construction screws for my screw downs. Actually #10 now that I look.
My house was mid 60's in Southern US. The things they did manage to surprise me in almost every project I begin. The upstairs was 2x8 joists with a 1/2" plywood subfloor. I'm just glad the spacing is 16" OC. On top of the plywood, is 3/4" MDF! The headaches (and $$) this has caused trying to get out sturdy and right! Seems like the experimentation Jeff mentions they were doing is no exaggeration.
My 1945 house... has true 2x10 joists... 1” diagonal tongue ‘n groove subfloor. 1/2” hardwood floors (sanded a few times). It had its squeaks though. I pulled up the old hardwood floors. I put two screws into each board wherever it crossed a joist. THEN I laid 5/8” plywood on top of the 1” subfloor. Good ol’ PL Premium, lol. I ran a bead along each joist AND along the centre of each subfloor board. Then I drove in 2 1/2” screws into the joists and two 1 1/2” screws evenly spaced apart into each diagonal board. There was a reason for this “overbuild”. I had decided to glue down my new hardwood floors from one end of the house to the other. No doorway transitions. There could be no movement at all. The manufacturer recommended it be floating but I wasn’t having that! It’s solid maple and it would’ve sounded like a laminate floor. It’s been 3 yrs now and there is no separation or squeaks or movement of any kind. In fact, you could probably drive a car across these floors with no problem at all. 😄 They are solid!!
When I framed a mansion in Utah we used 7/8" AdvanTech Subflooring with AdvanTech squeak-free polyurethane adhesive with 2-3/8" ring-shank nails. On top of that we installed PEX tubing for floor heat and encased it in 1.5" of gyp-crete underlayment before applying hardwood flooring. It was, by far, the most solid, noise-deadening floor I've ever experienced.
I have looked, but have never found ‘floor screws’ in my area (Massachusetts). Mostly multi-purpose star drive construction screws is all I have seen by grip rite or spax and what I’ve used for subfloors. Always wondered about your references to floor screws in your videos!
Same in PA. I just go for a screw that is “topless” - the threads stop a half inch or so below the head - this lets the subfloor get sucked down tight. Deck screws usually fit the bill.
@Home RenoVision DIY My hallway is squeaky and we are planning on putting vinyl plank OVER existing hardwood, original to house(1959). Can I screw through the existing hardwood to secure the sub floor beneath that to the joists or do I need to rip out the hardwood, screw the subfloor and then install OSB as new subfloor
A close up of a what a flooring screw looked like in comparison to a regular screw would have been nice. Maybe a quick strength test also. Cheers great videos
I think the world of this guy! he actually reminded me of another guy I know - David - owner of Patriot construction new braunfels tx. stand up and knowledgeable !
My house was built in 2018, and we had only lived there about six months before the floor started to creak in multiple locations. I'm so pissed at all the corners that were cut when my house was built. Fortunately, the basement is unfinished and it is pretty easy to find where the squeaks are coming from and address them from underneath, but it's bull$%!t that I have to do it so much.
This is why I refuse to buy one of the mass built pieces of garbage they have going for $300k+ around here. There are big companies that have bought up acres and acres of land and are mass building cul-de-sacs with houses so close you can reach out and touch your neighbor, and they're all being built as cheap as possible. It's absolutely disgusting what some builders get away with.
I’m a first time homeowner (house built in ‘86) and this is SO RELEVANT! Thank you so much and I love learning these tips and tricks! Edit: just wanted to say these videos are very well produced and top-notch quality. Super informative to boot!
I tore out the old sub floor, upgraded to some proper 3/4" ply, construction adhesive on every joist and a bead run along the joint line as the next piece went down. 2" deck screws on 10" centers. Zero squeaks and a rock solid dead quiet floor. A bit time consuming to do and I couldn't afford to pay a pro to do this, but it made a massive difference.
@@turningpoint6643 Now that is over-engineering, I love it. That is my dream floor. I want the one house in the neighborhood that is still standing after the hurricane/tornado/flood/blizzard/meteorite impact. Your home is probably that home.
Last year we bought a house built in the 80s. We pulled up all the carpet and walked every inch of the house several times looking for squeaks, screwing down everywhere we found noise. Only then did we install new carpet. After we brought in furniture, there were new squeaks, particularly in the master bedroom. SqueakNoMore helped a bit but there are still a few irritatingly loud ones! 😂
I'm so happy you are making a subfloor series! We just bought a 1960s home in Québec and just from visiting the home I noticed floor squeaks, wavy flooring...so I can't wait for these videos! I know before starting the kitchen or bathroom, we have to go from the foundation up, and knowing that repairing these issues ourselves is possible without a contractor is so reasuring! Merci pour les vidéos! ; )
Drove a couple large buckets of screws into my subfloors before adding carpet in bedrooms and vinyl over the remainder. But there was more to it than just screws, for my project. I have a house with the 3/4 inch planks laid diagonally across the floor joists. There was at least one generation of additional subflooring over that (except in the LR, which only had hardwood floors over it). Planks flex and not only do the nails squeek but so do the planks themselves as they rub. Since the basement ceiling was down, I cut lengths of 1/2 or 5/8 ply (whatever was available in the garage) to fit the joist cavities where the planks flexed noticeably and most noisily. I held up the ply while my brother drove a couple of screws from above to secure the piece. Then he filled in the rest of the ''field" so to speak as I continued to apply pressure on the piece from below. In effect, we created a plank sandwich. He also screwed into the joists as much as possible. Every 4-6 inches. In other areas where the planks did not rub as much or when I had no help, I drilled screwed into the joists like crazy. A maddeningly squeeky house is now quiet as a church on a thursday afternoon. When I worked building new houses we squeezed PL 400 on the top of the floor joists before dropping the T&G OSB sheets. Then we screwed the sheets down with one of those stand-up screw guns from Hilti.
I usually just look for the answer to my question but you just educated me about the way houses were vs are built. Interesting enough because I'm a DIY and I put down 2 1/4 hardwoods and yes the imperfections could have NEVER been done with anything bigger. Thank you for teaching me something.
.re is a link to a video where I show you the different types of screws and how they work. Cheers! th-cam.com/video/TqQMGgr9Uns/w-d-xo.html
All that damn experimental building is what have a lot of homes jacked up, this is why I dont understand why homes cost so much
Cant wait for the old floors leveling videos
Home Depot has subfloor screws by Grip-Rite, GRK. Lowe’s has squeak no more and Menards has Grip Fast. They just call them subfloor screws. They almost look like deck screws. As always great videos. Love the enthusiasm and great attitude. You’re a great instructor as well.
Can you do a vid on how to fix bouncy floors. I have a house in the states in NJ built in 1906 and I have a bow on some floors and a bad bounce in them
@@jamestaylor2039 you need more bracing in between the joists especially if you have 24 on center..I have the same issue..
Hello from newfieland. I just read through 30+ comments. No drama or garbage. Great to see there are still great channels out there. Thanks for the content
Anyone who knows how to work for a living is welcome here my friend. Cheers!
Check again. I hooked you right up.
As a retired Engineer, I cannot believe how many times I have come across this channel, watched his advice and information, nodded my head in complete agreement, and said to myself, "This guy would have made a hell of an Engineer!".
Straight forward information, great explanations of the reasons, and simple effective solutions.
I've got a townhouse that is only 14 yrs. old and we have squeaks up the wazoo. This info will help me fix the floors myself without having to hire a handyman. As a woman, I really appreciate all of your step by step instructions. You are helping to make my renovation more accessible and convenient for me so I don't have to pay to have help doing basics. Thank you!!
Cheers Josie! Happy to be of help!
My townhome was built in 2002 and I have the same issue. Squeaks everywhere. This info is great. Just waiting to take out the carpet first.
Another woman taking charge.. lol...I usually get strange looks by everyone when I’m on a job site with my dad..I’m 42 and 5’ tall but work circles around most the guys lol..I love this kind of work...it’s so satisfying seeing the end results...I’ve also taught myself how to work on my vehicle...some pretty major things too..replaced the entire front end..ball joints control arms struts tie rods everything...talk about a huge pain! But a sledge hammer and a torch helps greatly when u gotta use muscle u don’t have lol...as for working on a building...if ur ripping things out...grab the big sledge hammer...so much quicker and easier and less chance of hurting urself..lol...I learned that the hard way lol
My townhouse was built in 2010. Squeeks after a few years. Redid the flooring in 2018 upstairs. Tons of nails where sticking up. A few boxes of screws later, and it was quiet.
I had this.. It's only gotten worse in two half years
Nice vid.
Probably worth mentioning to check for cables and pipes!
the GRK R4's are the best subfloor screw I have found. star drive, self tapping tip, and they countersink super clean without tearing the OSB and ballooning the surface up. the head is also grooved on the back to increase positive contact and friction.
Thanks for the info !
Thanks for the information
You’re awesome
GRK is the only brand of screws I'll use on anything anymore. They're far superior to most common brands.
We just bought a 1966 townhouse with an upper floor that squeaks like crazy! I'm putting this video into my research file for when we eventually remodel! Thank you!
There are several tricks, which I’m sure will come in the next videos. This was just one.
Sounds great!
There are screws you can get that go through the carpet then break off the head but I'm not sure how well the hold since have no head. Designed to go through carpet so you don't need to remove it
@@jamesmacintyre1415 In my home, they fixed about 30-50% of squeaks, no effect on the rest. The ones which work, are holding well.
@@juzoli this why live this group. Always great info come out when needed
Couldn’t find flooring screws and my Home Depot, however, there are deck screws that fit the bill, worked like a charm for my 1940s house
flooring screws have a coarse thread (to add strength) and are coated to avoid squeaks. I never thought of deck screws as an alternative, which are readily available. Thanks for the tip.
Deck screws are what I would have used.
I don't think many in USA use subfloor screws even thought they do exist. I used deck screws. One tip is don't tighten the screw down like crazy or you will pull the floor. Just sink the screw a little bit. I am in the middle of putting down 2 layers of 3/4 pine. I used a planer in one are to make it even using a 6 foot level as I went.
There’s Squeak-No-More screws that can be used without removing flooring. They have threads with different patterns that draw the subfloor and flooring together.
What kind of deck screws
Thank you Jeff, you’re no grand piano, but you are “The Man”!!
You are a genius! I love the way you envision everything before you do it - taking everything into consideration (hence, Reno-VISION).
After watching one of your previous videos I renovated my old RV using your techniques - it was my first time installing new flooring - and it turned out amazing!
Keep it up my man - you are helping out SO many people!
Cheers Nate! Well done!
Thanks
In march 2021 I bought a house that was built in 1968 and my wife and I wanted all new carpet put in bedrooms and floating luxury vinyl in the living spaces. I got to work tearing out the old carpet and I discovered that I had a half inch plywood subfloor with a half in particle sheeting stapled down to it. This floor was insanely soft squishy and screamed bloody murder no matter where you walked. It flexed everywhere and there were so many staples it rubbed on. My heart sank a bit because this meant I would have to forever live with the squeaks which isn't even an option if you ask me or tear up all the particle board which was about 1500sq ft. Which I did, that also meant I removed all the the baseboards, door trim, doors and door frames. Then I came back with the 3/4" tongue and groove plywood purchased at record high prices (I was just grateful it was even available to purchase) and laid it over the original 1/2 plywood. Totaling 1 1/4 inch subfloor. I used 2 1/2 construction screws and my impact to fasten all of this down to the floor joist. My impact drill was smoking hot and cant believe it still works. Now when you walk around my house it is so solid you would think it was a concrete slab. Now I am always overkill when I do big projects like this. Anyone else would have just done 1/2 or maybe 5/8 sheeting like you see in this video, but you can see how much it flexes when he steps on it. How anything less than 3/4" is standard practice is beyond me. He steps on it and it flexes, the way I did it with 3/4" tongue and groove over the original 1/2" sheeting it feels like you could park a truck on it. Anyone with a house built in the mid 60's to 70's that has that particle board crap I feel for you, but to me there's no way else to fix it other than replacement.
1 and 1/4 inch flooring is commercial grade flooring! Glad that you took out the particle board. I think the video shows 24 inch spacing between joists. It flexes too much!
Renovating a 1969 home in Michigan . Main floor is 2x8 joists and am in the middle of sistering all of them up with LVL to hold porcelain tile. Ripped out all hardwood and next will be doing exactly this to the original subfloor to get rid of all squeaks before laying another layer of 3/4" ply (perpendicular to the lower sub floor) on top. I found 'Grip-Rite' screws at Home Depot that are recommended as floor screws for anyone looking. Can't wait to see these next videos - thank you!
"I'm no grand piano".... Hmmmm, that's suspiciously something that a grand piano disguised as a man would say.
Execute order 66 (likes)
This comment really keys it in.
😆 bravo sir
That sounds like organ talk to me.
Jeff, I'd just like to heap upon you all the synonyms for thanks, gratitude and appreciation, in order to thank you for all the knowledge you share... yet, even then, I don't think they'd be adequate. My wife and I finally got a nice little house with "good bones" that we want to renovate, bit by bit, just as we like, with our own hands (it's just sooooooo satisfying!) and your wisdom is priceless!!! Thanks to you, we do most every job with far greater accuracy, skill and quality than ... well, I shudder to think what sort of work we'd have done without it. Thank you seems so weak but, with immeasurable gratitude, I thank you!!!!
Thanks for the confirmation that we did it right! A few years ago, we replaced all of the main floor flooring (mainly cheap carpet and tile) in our late 80's home with hardwood and upgraded tile. After the removal of the old stuff, my son and I drove thousands of floor screws into the subfloor to try to get rid of the squeaks. We probably went a little overboard, driving them every 4 to 6 inches, and marking the joists with string to make sure we didn't miss, but I didn't want to find out after the new stuff was installed that we hadn't put enough in. Fortunately, it worked. The floors are much, much quieter.
That's exactly what my brother and I did. We went through a couple of buckets of flooring screws. Murder on the knees but the silent floors are well worth it.
@@user-hm5zb1qn6g I'm contemplating replacing the entire OSB subfloor in a few bedrooms -- is this a bad idea? or will floor screws solve the problem?
@@SR-te2db Assuming the OSB didn't get wet or mouldy, suffer fire damage or have a meteor fall through it, it doesn't go bad, so I wouldn't replace it, esp at today's prices. If the subfloor is of a certain era where they used nails and no PL400 adhesive on the tops of the floor joists, as you walk on those floors the OSB will flex (called deflection) and the nails will move. Squeak. The first thing to do (after you've taken up the carpet or whatever flooring you have in those BRs) is to find where the floor joists run, snap chalk lines, and screw the living shyt along those lines. As Ray says above, every 4-6 inches. Cordless drill and knee pads are you friend. That might solve it. If it doesn't, what I've done for clients with flexing OSB or plywood subfloors is I have installed blocking between the floor joists (every 16 inches, if necessary but you could probably get away with every 24 inches). This assumes you have access from below (ie unfinished basement ceiling). I usually use dimensional lumber of the same size as the floor joists. Make your cut for a snug fit, squeeze some PL400 on to the top of the blocking, knock it in with a hammer, use a speed square to make sure it sits squarely between the joists, then drive three 3-inch screws through the floor joists into each end of the blocking. Then go back upstairs and install more floor screws through the subflooring into the new blocking. Yes, it's work. But for my money the silent floors are worth it.
We do have flooring screws in the states. I know of Grip-Rite and the Simpson Strong-Drive. The Simpson is sold in Canada as well.
Also, I really appreciate all of your videos. You make it understandable to me. I just remodeled our powder room. Totally gutted it down to the studs and made board and batten walls for my wife's farmhouse style. It looks amazing and I never would have had the confidence to tackle it before watching your videos. Thank you!
Just moved into an older house about 6 months ago. Hired a flooring company to redo practically the whole house and I specifically told them to do this. After the flooring was all installed, I noticed that there were still god awful squeaks all over. Flooring guy said they tried but used up all their screws. Can't tell you how mad I've been as now I have to live with the squeaks for who knows how many years .... unless these next few videos are going to give me a way to fix it (and I hope that's the case!). We have vinyl flooring by the way. Great videos and just wanted to say thanks for all your great videos. You help guys like me who never had anyone teach me these things so know that it is appreciated. Been a subscriber ever since I bought my home. Cheers!
"I'm no grand piano!" - too precious :)
Jeff, your videos are great and thanks to you I am going to save a lot of $$$... I am 62 but when I watch your videos I feel 26 again .... proud to be Canadian !! 💪
thank you for this, i bought my first house and my entire second floor squeaks like that, once we recarpet i will do this for sure.
@Grants4u Ltd I don't know what type the floors are made of its all carpeted... What do you do when it's chipboard then?
Glad it was helpful!
Just pull up the carpet and screw the sub floor down now. You can roll the carpet back out and tuck it under the baseboard. Regards...
Funny people have all these expensive homes and hardwood floors, but it squeaks like worn car brakes
@@Chuffin_elltuck it under the baseboard? What's going to hold it taut if he does that? Regards...
Great job explaining this Jeff! Not only did you talk about it, but you show people it actually happening. I'm getting ready to fix the 50 -year-old sub-floor in the Montana home I bought before plan to put new flooring and carpet in. The original owner tried fixing the sub-floor by nailing a particle board floor onto the existing floor. Of course that didn't fix the problem because he didn't bother to screw the top floor through the old floor to the joists! Now I have to pull all that crap off and redo it! Anyway, thanks for the passion and explanations in your videos. Keep up the good work sir and warm regards from MT!
When i installed a hardwood floor I used subfloor adhesive to bond it to the subfloor and carpenters glue in the tong and groove. It was a lot of extra work but the entire floor is a solid monolith. No squeaks there.
That is what makes homeowners the best contractor on the job. They give a damn! Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Until the electrician comes in and wants the floor up to run cables... A minute with an impact driver (if it were screwed down) turns into a huge pain in the ass.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Question: Is it necessary to use adhesive on the floor joists if you only screw the new subfloor down and use no nails at all?
@@kturn5953 Did you find an answer
@@nateislate5551 If using decking screws to secure the subfloor to floor joists, than the adhesive is overkill. Nails cause squeaks over time and pull out, so the adhesives help. With screws, you avoid all of those problems. Using star bit decking screws and a plug-in ~9amp powered (mixing) drill makes the job easier and keeps you from burning out your smaller drills/drivers like I did! Still not a single squeak over all 2,000 sq ft :)
love this guy going an extra mile to show and explain all in details, cheers from fellow canadien 🇨🇦😀
This series is going to be useful to my current project. Hopefully I remember to look for the vids. Thanks Jeff.
You bet
This floor video series has saved me $1400 (so far). Thanks Jeff
Glad to help
I'm about to replace all of my floating floors and carpet. This is very timely advice
cheers I love it when a video is helpful
No future flooring job in the near future but I love to learn. You helped me install my first a several other renovation projects. I get better with each project and your videos are to thank. Hands down the best channel to learn from. Thank you
Squeaky floors will be popular again at some point in the future. They’ll just call it "retro".
Or "Vintage". Remember, vintage never goes out of style...it just becomes more vintage ;).
“reclaimed” squeaks. Millennials will pay extra for that!
It's a home security feature.
@@camaroman101 hahaha that's true, it's impossible to sneak upstairs in my house
@@j10001 you’re so smart and wise and the millennials are so stupid and naive. Haha, you sure showed them! /s
We live in a late 1950's house with floors that have some squeaks, in fact once in awhile we will feel a nail through the carpet. I looked in the basement and notice that we have pretty solid 2X10's placed 16 inches on centre and 9 inch wide tongue and groove planks, 3/4 inch thick, nailed on the diagonal for a sub floor. I'm guessing that's pretty solid and when we replace the old flooring all we have to do is take Jeff's advice in this video. Thanks Jeff, you do great work.
Whoever dislikes these videos are bums. Thanks for being so informative Jeff! Looking forward to eventually renovating/remodeling a home following your tips.
Thanks 👍 You got this!
Man, your videos are so good. I knew good carpenters could fix such issues, but the way you have to explain is just awesome. Everything starts to make sense.
WOOOOOOOO!! 1st thing o noticed was the electrical tape bandaid. Thanks for the videos JEFF
Good call! iF you don't have a bandaid, you don't work for a living and you don't know what you're talking about.
Used to work in construction as an electrician when I was frech out of school (collage? , don't know how you say it) ... Yeah, I had a few on each hand 🖐️ 😂
Best channel on the interweb, the chef would never let you live this down!
Perfect timing! We are about to replace subfloor made of particle board in one of the rooms. Need to cut all around the walls and remove existing sheets. Can’t wait to hear from you how to do it. You are awesome!
that is next saturday. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Thank you so much! How to make a straight cut along the wall and not to cut/damage supporting beam/stud ? We found 1 saw, it’s a newer product that cut straight along the wall, but it little expensive. Or should we use Sawzall? but the cut might be not that straight and we can cut supporting joist. Regular electric circular saw does not go flash with the wall. We will have to use it with an angle.
You are a life saver 🙏
My parents have a 99year old house here in Chicago and it’s a brick house but the flooring is so old I be thinking the house flooring will come down one of this days and I been getting interested in these videos and getting the inspire to go for a course of flooring to get my license so I can do my parents flooring and your videos are easy simple and show by detail and explains why… love it thanks
Dear Jeff: Thank you. Your videos are making me smarter and seeing how many subscribers you have confirms that your expertise is well received. Liked and subscribed my friend.
Awesome, thank you!
I just went though a floor package rebuild in an older home. Lots of work but came out great. Used lots of your (and others) youtube videos for help. Along with a pail (5000) flooring screws and some joist hangers. Gotta love those "handyman" specials who cut through the meat of the material with a 2" hole saw to run a 1/2" water pipe and a couple of electrical cables...which then rots completely with a 20 year bathroom leak...
Senco sells “subfloor” screws in the states. Couldn’t find them in the big box office stores “IE Hime Depot / Lowe’s” but found it no problem is most lumber yard stores, and always on Amazon.
Cheers thanks matthew.
Good video. I am a framer and in production carpentry we still use pneumatic nailers as our main fastening system for subfloor. However we use ring shank nails which mimic the effects of a flooring screw quite well without the wasted time of screwing down every single sheet.
Hey can i ask - can I just put shims in the gaps between joist and subfloor?
I'm just working on replacing the floor now. I appreciate all of these tips. Thanks
They took awhile to find in small quantities, but I found subfloor screws at Menards. Home depot and lowes were both online only.
Cheers Eric!
It's like your videos are submitted directly when I'm getting ready to start a project. God bless you and your videos my friend :) You're a genius.
What about if carpet is over the floors or stairs but also squeaks? Can’t screw through the carpet. Cut nails and glue from underneath? Any other suggestions?
I use the Simpson Strong Tie Sub Flooring Screw works Great
well done Keith. Cheers!
I didn't know that about old growth lumber. I learn something literally every time I watch your videos.
They're usually called deck screws in the US, but sometimes you can find "construction screws" with a smooth section of shank. You also have to be careful because sometimes they sell "deck screws" that are laminating screws (top section of the shank has coarser threads instead of no threads)!
Cheers Thanks!
I just bought an old house and your help ease my anxiety about my long list to do. This helps
I just did this step. I found several places where the squeaks were coming from the two layers of sub floor flexing. In those cases I put in a grid of screws spaced 6-8 inches apart to basically get the two sub-floor layers acting like one layer. No squeaks and much less flex underfoot!
Having a similar issue myself. Did you use the screws the video demonstrates or another type? How are they holding up? My squeaks are coming from the top layer subfloor where the sheets meet/flex, which are between the joists.
I used 2x10s on 16 centers with Liquid Nail on the joists to glue the 3/4 plywood subfloor. Then I ran 3/4 plywood on top of that the opposite way so not parallel but perpendicular with Liquid Nail between the two. Then put float vinyl finished floor on that. No squeaking. The Liquid Nail holds everything in place for no movement. Oh yeah and I used rim shank nails from a nail gun for the plywood.
You’re saving my sanity, thank you so much for this video!
You're so welcome! Happy to help!
Wow! Man you are good! In fact the best I have ever come across when it comes to explaining about renovation and building methodologies. Your explanations are detailed and yet explained very simply. You are really God gifted in your profession and bestowed with an excellent sense of humour and oratory skills/ skills of verbal articulation.
Literally did this yesterday, didn't see any floor screws. Used general construction screws, worked well. I did however find a rotted floor joist near the front entrance... gota figure that out now.
What length screws?
@@matthewsladky7193 I believe 3 inch
Great timing. We're redoing our kitchen and replacing the flooring. I didn't even think to just go over the current subfloor with screws.
I'm in the process of flattening my subfloor in a 60 year old house in preparation for LVP. Can't wait to see what I messed up or wasted my time and money on as there's no way my wife will let me hold out for the entire series to be released!
Same!
I use decking screws (usually deckmate) either 3 or 4 inch I live in Michigan. They work great and heads won't snap
Always love the insight you share. You gotta come back down to Philly again
Working on it!
Again? When was he here?
I did this when i did my kitchen reno and it made a huge difference!
Fyi: i beleive they are called underlay (maybe underlayment) screws in the states
2x10 Douglas fir 16 OC ,pressure blocking ,subfloor PL, screws (yes we have them) No 5/8s osb ,Best grade 3/4
ply or Advantech.
No problem
Okay, I’m not a construction guy. Just a homeowner that does diy around the house. Can you please decipher what you just wrote. I understand what you mean by “2x10 Douglas fir 16 OC” but nothing after that. Thanks!
@@frankcampos1251 Hi Frank , I'm pretty busy today but I will get back on here, and break it down.
Randall
Our house built in 1987....nailed subfloor on 14 inch floor trusses....When we recently replaced carpet I put in 2 inch deck screws every 12 inches throughout the house....this took three days but solved the problem...the deck screw did the job
What’s the difference between floor screws and general screws?
Strength of the screw also general screws cant be used in home construction as they have no shear strength. There is also a code about them.
the top of the shaft is smooth and leaves the head exposed if you don't find the joist!
I have a circa 2010 bungalow in Edmonton Alberta and the floors are horrible. The issue is the floating laminate hardwood that was used. I questioned at the time of installation not nailing or glueing it down and the contractor said they couldn't warranty the product if installation wasn't done as specked. The entire house floor squeaks all over and it's become pointless to try to sneak out. lol. Thanks for your vids.
those floors were designed by wives!
In the states there is a brand called squeak no more, whose screw head can be removed after installation, making a more discreet installation. Saved my floor, thought finding the joists was a pain.
I used these over a year ago and some of them have come back up. The snapped off head started hitting bare feet so I had to remove a couple of them. You can find the old nails using super strong neodymium magnets. One you find the lines from a couple of nails you can mark out the line of where they should be. I did this through carpet and underlay.
Tried this, it didn't work
I tried those in my Canadian 1960s house. It didn't work...
@@JoeSmith-ez3zg true that, didn't work for me
I’ve used these with mixed results. There meant to fix squeaks and noises under finished carpet. If you have unfinished flooring or are removing the existing floor covering, I would waste my money on them. What I found they fixed some of the noises and created others, just shifted loads and the source of the sound. If you can, remove the oiled floor covering, use floor screws, deck screws and reattach the whole floor.
Just dealt with a frustrating 2nd floor screeching on a 3/4 plywood floor on several spots (house built in 1990, California)....wasn’t the 2” staples they used. Come to find out it was the hardback running through the 24” OC manufactured floor joists rubbing against the joists (wood on metal/wood on wood). Had to rip out a couple panels to see what the heck was going on. The hardback was installed sub par just to pass the inspection. I could tell the previous owner tried to rectify the noise with nails but missed the mark.
BTW, I really like your channel/videos...keep it going!
I am working on my subfloors now. I looked for screws specifically labeled as floor or sub-floor screws but didn't find any. We have drywall, deck and construction screws. I am using #8, torx head construction screws for my screw downs. Actually #10 now that I look.
Cheers that will work
I believe that the floor screws that you have are the same that we use for the drywall here in the US. Great video. Thanks
Very informative thank you for sharing your expertise! From Manila, Philippines.
Glad it was helpful! Cheers to the Philipines!
My house was mid 60's in Southern US. The things they did manage to surprise me in almost every project I begin. The upstairs was 2x8 joists with a 1/2" plywood subfloor. I'm just glad the spacing is 16" OC. On top of the plywood, is 3/4" MDF! The headaches (and $$) this has caused trying to get out sturdy and right! Seems like the experimentation Jeff mentions they were doing is no exaggeration.
Oh wow!
My fingers are crossed that you do a video on fixing sagging floors.
Honestly bud you are the best. Love your channel and all the knowledge you share. Stay blessed
I see that you spent approximately $5000 worth of material just for this video. 😉 Thanks Jeff
You bet!
My 1945 house... has true 2x10 joists... 1” diagonal tongue ‘n groove subfloor. 1/2” hardwood floors (sanded a few times). It had its squeaks though. I pulled up the old hardwood floors. I put two screws into each board wherever it crossed a joist. THEN I laid 5/8” plywood on top of the 1” subfloor. Good ol’ PL Premium, lol. I ran a bead along each joist AND along the centre of each subfloor board. Then I drove in 2 1/2” screws into the joists and two 1 1/2” screws evenly spaced apart into each diagonal board.
There was a reason for this “overbuild”. I had decided to glue down my new hardwood floors from one end of the house to the other. No doorway transitions. There could be no movement at all. The manufacturer recommended it be floating but I wasn’t having that! It’s solid maple and it would’ve sounded like a laminate floor.
It’s been 3 yrs now and there is no separation or squeaks or movement of any kind. In fact, you could probably drive a car across these floors with no problem at all. 😄
They are solid!!
Summary: Use screws not nails.
When I framed a mansion in Utah we used 7/8" AdvanTech Subflooring with AdvanTech squeak-free polyurethane adhesive with 2-3/8" ring-shank nails. On top of that we installed PEX tubing for floor heat and encased it in 1.5" of gyp-crete underlayment before applying hardwood flooring. It was, by far, the most solid, noise-deadening floor I've ever experienced.
I have looked, but have never found ‘floor screws’ in my area (Massachusetts). Mostly multi-purpose star drive construction screws is all I have seen by grip rite or spax and what I’ve used for subfloors. Always wondered about your references to floor screws in your videos!
Same situation in Texas as with Massachusetts as far as I know.
Same in PA. I just go for a screw that is “topless” - the threads stop a half inch or so below the head - this lets the subfloor get sucked down tight. Deck screws usually fit the bill.
@Home RenoVision DIY My hallway is squeaky and we are planning on putting vinyl plank OVER existing hardwood, original to house(1959). Can I screw through the existing hardwood to secure the sub floor beneath that to the joists or do I need to rip out the hardwood, screw the subfloor and then install OSB as new subfloor
A close up of a what a flooring screw looked like in comparison to a regular screw would have been nice. Maybe a quick strength test also. Cheers great videos
they look like plain Phillips drywall screw
@@Dave-tw9ib No, they don't. Drywall screws is the least thing you want to use to secure the flooring.
I think the world of this guy! he actually reminded me of another guy I know - David - owner of Patriot construction new braunfels tx. stand up and knowledgeable !
Not seen them actually called floor screws but like deck screws or something with a different name sort of.
They're just black oxide interior wood screws.
@@hedonisticzen could a sheet rock screw serve same purpose you think?
not for long. too weak
@@oklahomachris6298 they look similar but the core of these are steel unlike sheet rock screws.
@@hedonisticzen got ya
Jeff you are a hero!! What is the difference with the Construction Screws those that are golden? Thank you.
I've even seen builders apply a glue to the joist before they lay down the sub floor them screw it down.
Yep Liquid Nail and rim shank nails from a nail gun and 2 perpendicular running 3/4 plywoods before floating floor. No squeaks
That is code / standard practice in all Canadian homes or Glued then screwed
Ahh so happy this video came out now! I'm renovating a house (in the Netherlands) and I had no clue what to do with the squeaky floors. Thanks!
Too many people skip this step and make a new floor feel old!
Cheers to that Daniel! it is all about preparation!
We use GRK 2 5/8", nine gauge for this application in Vermont.
This channel should be renamed "Think 'bout this for a minute..."
I laughed so loud
Lol
Down here we have "squeek no more" screws for flooring sold at Lowe's lol
I started framing in Vermont/new Hampshire in 1984, we glued every deck/floor i ever worked on.
My house was built in 2018, and we had only lived there about six months before the floor started to creak in multiple locations. I'm so pissed at all the corners that were cut when my house was built. Fortunately, the basement is unfinished and it is pretty easy to find where the squeaks are coming from and address them from underneath, but it's bull$%!t that I have to do it so much.
How are you addressing squeaks from underneath
This is why I refuse to buy one of the mass built pieces of garbage they have going for $300k+ around here. There are big companies that have bought up acres and acres of land and are mass building cul-de-sacs with houses so close you can reach out and touch your neighbor, and they're all being built as cheap as possible. It's absolutely disgusting what some builders get away with.
I’m a first time homeowner (house built in ‘86) and this is SO RELEVANT! Thank you so much and I love learning these tips and tricks!
Edit: just wanted to say these videos are very well produced and top-notch quality. Super informative to boot!
This demo must of costed you at least a 1000 dollars in wood! Lol
about 250.00 acyua.ly. Cheers worth it if it helps you all out!
Yeah, at 48 bucks for 7/16 OSB .... it would seem that way ..... joists etc were likely 'cut offs'
*must have
@@alistair1978utube Nah, must of works for me.
You are the man!!! This is exactly the video series i asked for in the comments on another video!! Don't know what I'd do with out y'all!!
Never add screws where they are "missing", that's how I hit my water pipe!
get a lumber detector?
bad water pipe installation in that case.
Must have notched the joist wrong.
I smoke bongs for fun
This is awesome. Thanks for sharing!! My house is from the 1960s, and the squeaky floors is driving me mad 😅… Can’t wait to try this!
Nice just common sense, I always say glue and screw.
I glued and nailed. I used Liquid Nail and rim shank nails on 2 opposite running plywoods and no sounds as the glue will not let it move
I tore out the old sub floor, upgraded to some proper 3/4" ply, construction adhesive on every joist and a bead run along the joint line as the next piece went down. 2" deck screws on 10" centers. Zero squeaks and a rock solid dead quiet floor. A bit time consuming to do and I couldn't afford to pay a pro to do this, but it made a massive difference.
@@turningpoint6643 man, talk about belt and suspenders.
@@turningpoint6643 Now that is over-engineering, I love it. That is my dream floor. I want the one house in the neighborhood that is still standing after the hurricane/tornado/flood/blizzard/meteorite impact. Your home is probably that home.
@@hedonisticzen True, but those previous squeaks dove me nuts.
Last year we bought a house built in the 80s. We pulled up all the carpet and walked every inch of the house several times looking for squeaks, screwing down everywhere we found noise. Only then did we install new carpet. After we brought in furniture, there were new squeaks, particularly in the master bedroom. SqueakNoMore helped a bit but there are still a few irritatingly loud ones! 😂
I'm so happy you are making a subfloor series! We just bought a 1960s home in Québec and just from visiting the home I noticed floor squeaks, wavy flooring...so I can't wait for these videos! I know before starting the kitchen or bathroom, we have to go from the foundation up, and knowing that repairing these issues ourselves is possible without a contractor is so reasuring! Merci pour les vidéos! ; )
Perfect timing as I am about to do some work on the entire subfloor of the house and even replace a section that rotted due to A/C leaking.
Pure gold! I'm buying a 1930s end-of-terrace with suspended flooring that will require attention.
In Dublin Ireland btw
Drove a couple large buckets of screws into my subfloors before adding carpet in bedrooms and vinyl over the remainder.
But there was more to it than just screws, for my project.
I have a house with the 3/4 inch planks laid diagonally across the floor joists. There was at least one generation of additional subflooring over that (except in the LR, which only had hardwood floors over it).
Planks flex and not only do the nails squeek but so do the planks themselves as they rub.
Since the basement ceiling was down, I cut lengths of 1/2 or 5/8 ply (whatever was available in the garage) to fit the joist cavities where the planks flexed noticeably and most noisily.
I held up the ply while my brother drove a couple of screws from above to secure the piece. Then he filled in the rest of the ''field" so to speak as I continued to apply pressure on the piece from below.
In effect, we created a plank sandwich. He also screwed into the joists as much as possible. Every 4-6 inches.
In other areas where the planks did not rub as much or when I had no help, I drilled screwed into the joists like crazy.
A maddeningly squeeky house is now quiet as a church on a thursday afternoon.
When I worked building new houses we squeezed PL 400 on the top of the floor joists before dropping the T&G OSB sheets. Then we screwed the sheets down with one of those stand-up screw guns from Hilti.
I usually just look for the answer to my question but you just educated me about the way houses were vs are built. Interesting enough because I'm a DIY and I put down 2 1/4 hardwoods and yes the imperfections could have NEVER been done with anything bigger. Thank you for teaching me something.