Whirlpool Cabrio F71/Suds code diagnosis and repair (W10820039)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มิ.ย. 2019
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Welcome, we diagnose and repair this Whirlpool Cabrio washing machine’s F71 error code or also known as the SD or suds code. A few things to check would be.
1. Is it draining? Could be took many suds so clean washer with afresh tablets or vinegar.
2. Hub, you could have a damaged hub. This is the part that connects the basket to the motor below. It also act as the transmission on this model. As it fills with water the basket floats and disengages from the motor and only spins the agitator. As it drains it falls back down to re-engage the motor to pin the basket for spin. It’s a really cool design. So if this hub is damaged it won’t re-engage the spin.
3. You want to make sure the basket will lift up and back down. You can check this by lifting the basket up and than back down again. If it does than great. If it don’t than you need a bearing and shaft Assembly. Here is a link to a video on how to replace one. • Washer sounds like an ... link for the part will be in the description.
To my knowledge those three checks should help you figure out your issue. If you need more assistance let me know in the comments below and I will see what I can do to help. Thanks for watching and like and subsribe!
Disclaimer:
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Your video saved me potentially hundreds of dollars and many hours. Found an upgraded version of the part on Amazon... Only $10 & shipped the next day. Thank you so much!
I just installed the hub drive kit. I ran a normal cycle without clothes in it after installation with no SD error code. So far so good. This may have fixed our problem. We will see what happens over the next few loads of laundry. Thank you!!!
Wife said the washer kept going into SD error and beeping. I said "I don't know, I'm a motorcycle mechanic not a washer mechanic" After the "Look" I went and watched it work for 20 minutes, very entertaining. During spin I heard gears grinding and came to TH-cam. After your video I took it apart and found the hub pretty much had no splines left. Surprised it spun at all. Thanks for the help, no couch for me tonight. :)
Thank you that was an easy fix. The only issue that I ran into was the stripped gear left space between the metallic shaft and the plastic part. This left room for corrosion. With some light sandpaper an ice pick and a wire brush elbow grease and some WD-40 she went right back together thank you again!
THANK YOU! My husband was able to replace the part with the help of this video!!!
Thank you!!! I was going crazy after replacing the bearings!
Thank you for the video, I fixed my washer easily!
Thank you so much. Repairman told me it was the control board and that I needed a new washer without even doing anything. I watched a few videos, ran the diagnostic, and followed your instructions. Now I have my own set of socket wrenches and a working washer!
This is the video I’ve been looking for. Thank you sir!
Awesome video! We were having the no drain issue and sure enough, the gear was stripped. Part ordered with your link and will have it tomorrow! Thanks!
Super helpful video! Same problem. Just need parts now!
Wonderful video. Very helpful, worked like a charm.Thank you
Man yeah! Glad to help.
Excellent video! Thank you for explaining not just the what and how, but also the why behind this repair.
Glad to help!
Great video thanks appliance brother
I think you just saved me $$$ and a whole lot of aggravation! Spin cycle just completed went kaput late last night on my Cabrio, soaked clothes. Trying "Drain and Spin" and it SOUNDED like it was trying to engage/spin...but nothing. Finally went into Diagnostic mode, that F71 error shows up. Went through cycles, the C9 showed nothing. Found this video.
Followed these exact instructions here earlier this morning. Yeah that middle small part (2:02), the teeth were just grinded down to almost nothing - and I was really hoping for that when I first saw this video last night! Stinks I can't seem to find a local place near me that would just sell me this part so I can take care of it today..oh well. I did find the part, should be here tomorrow and HOPEFULLY that is the 100% fix! But no ques. this had to be replaced anyway.
Thank you so much for this video, I REALLY really appreciate it!
Was given a cabrio platinum, long store short i thought was pump but checked that and seemed in good shape, saw your video and sure enough that was problem. Thank yoy so much. I will subscribe
Thanks so much. That Fixed my washer.
Excellent!
BTW, this fixed my SD issue, didn't have to enter the pump hoses at all. $28 and 30 min, back to 100%. Thanks!
If the lower part of the splines is wearing out, do you recommend putting a little JB weld on the inner hub piece (and letting it dry) before screwing in the larger hub?
Thanks!
I trust the website link guys! Got exactly what I needed from there.Bro my gear was so dirty like ten years dirty that I almost didn’t even get the bolts off 😂 my hub is good now thank you. It helped hope someone sees my feedback
Where did you get your kit? I'm thinking this is my issue
@@bethallor2527 link is in this very TH-cam videos bio/ description
Agitator won’t come off does it need to be fully drained first?
Thanks so much, this is just what i needed
What is 5d mean
That five is supposed to look like and “s” that’s means suds code. Suds code may indicate your using too much soap. Run it’s with nothing in and and see if you still get the code.
If you still get the code and the water won’t drain it could be a drain pump issue. Look into that if it won’t drain.
If it will drain you may need a hub like features in this video. The basket may not be able to move either. It’s a floating basket when it fills with water. Have to check the hub and shaft if you have to go further.
Good luck!
Great video! I am not getting either of those errors, I keep getting the "oL" error for Over load. Does this fix work for that as well?
Got the chrome cap off, got the bolt out of the center of the agitator, having a though time getting the agitator out ... any tips or tricks I should know about ? - thanks !
lift it the little that it will then slide a belt under it and pull up on each side rocking it back and forth. It will come loose
Little off subject, but I see where the washplate should lock with the basket when turned by hand.
Is that right regardless of what cycle it was stopped in?
I have a Bravos I changed the pump in. Now it gives Suds error.
I don’t remember it doing that before with the bad pump in it.
The washplate turns by hand and does not lock with the basket.
I think it did okay until the spin cycle but not sure.
I think it was just not draining and I changed the pump.
Hi I have a question I got the old hub off but putting the small new hub on it is stuck do I need to apply some kind of lubricant to push it all the way down
My washer is acting like yours, but giving a LD code. No hose blockage, lid lock is fine, and drain pump is fine. Tried to check pump switch and from what I see that’s fine too. The piece on the shaft looks fine, but I can’t remove it from the machine for some reason. My machine isn’t drained, but there’s barely water in the actual basket. In diagnostics mode drain is the only thing that gives me issues
Same issue with me. Were you able to resolve it?
Mine wont even get power :( any suggestions?
2:06 to the basket more like to the SPIN DRUM
Hey I’m having this same code come up on mine when I get into the diagnostics like you shown how to on this video, it washes an everything but when it gets to the last couple stages of the normal cycle it stops an flashes the SD an the clothes are soaking wet everytime, do you think it’s the gear like in this video or do you think it could be something else, im taking it all apart today like you shown to check it out
Mine just started doing the same, what worked for you?
Hi, I’ve messed with my washer about three times now, replaced the hub kit twice. It will work for a while, then crap out again on Sd fault. I am getting the F 71 friction alarm based on the C8 test. I don’t really want to do the shaft replacement thing, but I am thinking that is where I am at this stage of the game. I did clean the shaft up really well with some emery cloth and got it nice and smooth, although it is still pitted, and It worked for quite a while after that, but now it is messing up again. Anything I can do now other than replacing the shaft and bearings? Machine is nearly 12 years old, so I’m thinking I may just go shopping.
We have a similar issue. The shaft is so corroded I can’t get a new hub to fit on. The old one only fits on because it’s worn out. Any recommendations to help fix the shaft?
Hey Michael, not sure how deep you have gotten into this yet, but to clean the shaft really well, I took the tub completely out of the washer. The tub typically will not come out on its own. You can pull on it all day long by hand and it will not come off the shaft. I had to make a puller with a bottle jack and a 2x4. That’s how I got the tub out of there. Once the tub is out of the way, you can clean the shaft really well. But, the main problem is still going to be that the splines are worn out where the little geared bushing rides. If it is not on an area of the shaft that has good clean splines, it will just keep stripping out. So I made a little spacer that’s not quite 1/8” tall and put it under the little geared bushing. This keeps the little bushing elevated where it is always on good splines. Additionally, I drilled and tapped a hole in the geared bushing and put in a set screw to keep it from sliding up down on the shaft. Only thing about this is it messed up the stack height of all the pieces. So I took it back apart, and had a spacer made at a local gasket shop and put it over the shaft underneath the tub. So in essence, I elevated the tub and tried to correct for the stack height. This was pretty cumbersome, but so far it is working. Good luck and let me know if you have additional questions.
Great video! I have the exact same washer as in the video. I am having an issue with it in that the impeller/agitator, as well as the basket, do NOT spin at all. I used to be able to manually spin the impeller/agitator, and it would rotate with the basket in parallel. However, it recently stopped doing this and is completely stuck (ie, it does NOT give clockwise/counterclockwise). When I go into diagnostics mode, no error codes are displayed and the machine goes directly into "88". When it starts the diagnostics tests, I can see the washer attempt to spin the impeller and basket after a quick rinse, but it is only able to move it a tiny bit (1/4") and then it completely stops. (As if the "brakes" were engaged.) Would you happen to know what could be causing this?
No more brakes on these washing machines . You have a bind some where. Try the turn the basket to break it free. I find the bearings on some of these go bad and they get stuck. If you have an airplane noise afterwards than you know you have bad bearings. Makes a roaring noise during spin. It will drive you nuts lol. If you can’t break it free you will have to take it apart to find the bind. Could be a piece of clothing stuck between the basket and tub or seized motor etc. both of those are rare but possible. Good luck!
@@BeardedApplianceRepair I had that load roaring noise and now it’s not spinning during wash or drain cycle in any wash cycle. I have to wait till it’s done and set it to drain and spin so it’s not soaked. Would it be that there is something stuck and go into the repair as you did here?
I’m having the same problem as yours where can I find the part at?
Great video - but I am having the hardest time trying to take off the agitator even though I took off the nut. Is there a step I’m missing or is there something else I need to do to get it off?
Tried to use the flat head screw driver to pry it loose but still won’t come off. And starting to damage the agitator.
There is a bolt holding it in the center. Make sure you get that off first.
That should be the only thing holding the agitator on. If you have the bolt off try some rust buster or wd40 to try and loosen it up in the shaft. It can be a pain to get off. Some can be seized and you have to boil water and pour it in. Soaking it can loose. It up too.
Good luck!
Bearded Appliance Repair I’ll give it a shot and hopefully get back to you with some good news once I’ve tried it.
@@josezapata8427 I had a hard time with mine too. I pryed it up with a couple short knives, worked it up and down and side to side, slowly freeing it from the center. It worked, but it took some sweat.
@Jake Britton - I had to get local repair specialist to work on it and he told me that in 15yrs that he’s been doing this he has never ran into a situation like this. He had to cut and break the agitator into pieces to get it off and had to replace that part as well. Needless to say when it was all said and done I spent what I would have on a new washer, but they left it running like new and have not had any issues since.
Regardless of what these other people say you almost always have to break the agitator and buy a new one the agitators are welded onto the shaft literally from all the corrosion and use and yes I've had to use a 4-in grinder cutter to get off some of these agitators
Just replaced my pieces. Seemed easy enough. I got it all put back together and started a load. Now I’m getting a new code. OL. Any ideas??
make sure your basket spins freely and the basket moves up and down on the shaft. If there is a bind in anyway you will get the overloaded (OL) code. If you find the bind you will have to find out what is causing it and resolve it from there.
Just took it all back apart and the bottom of the shafts is super rusted and looks like it was eaten up and not ridgety like the top
Our gears are in great condition, but we are still getting the code. The washer will work for 10 minutes and then the code will appear, what do you advise?
My Whirlpool Cabrio Platinum washer WTW8540BW1 will not stop filling with water. I just replaced the driveshaft and bearings. It ran 5 or 6 loads fine and now this is happening.....any ideas? When I run the diagnostic check, I get error code F70 and F81, but it does run the complete diagnostic cycle. The water inlet valve appears to be working fine and the washer doesn’t fill with water when the power is off to the machine. Thanks for any advice!
Tube to pressure switch is clogged, disconnect at control board and blow in it
I know this video is older so I’m not sure I’ll get a reply, but I’m doing this repair by myself and I CANNOT for the life of me get that bolt off! Does anyone have any tips on how to get that bolt off?
I get f 32 any idea what's the problem
Where can I get the parts? I'm positive this is my issue
This is definitely my issue. Trying to remove the hub to replace and it gets stuck on the shaft about a cm up. Anyone have any ideas on how to get it loose so I can change this damn part??
Lately i have had to change the hub about once a week. Is there something else causing the hub to go out that fast?
What part of the hub is getting damaged? If it’s the inner spline, your shaft is probably the cause. Look at the shaft when you replace it next and see if something looks off. Not sure what else could cause it.
Shaft could be worn. I couldn't find any parts available to replace the shaft. Why would they use such crappy parts for an area that is under a great deal of torque stress?
Jake Britton what’s your model number. I’ll see what I can find for you.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair WTW6600SW2
Jake Britton amzn.to/2ObUQB7 here is the shaft. Comes with bearing as well. Will need an extra tool to press the bearing in though. I have made a video on how to change them out. th-cam.com/video/tmEShMg2WSY/w-d-xo.html
Replacing the bearing can be a tough job. Depending on if everything comes out easy or not. Good luck if you decide to try and knock it out.
So changing the hub did not solve the problem?
Did you say it was Suds error code it showed?
Yes is was a suds code. Keep in mind if you have the version with the shifter/actuator this video will not help you. This washer has a completely different design. This is a direct drive unit. The other with the shifter has a transmission and motor. You might need the hub but just wanted to let you know this is a different washer than the other video you commented on.
Yes the hub fixed this specific washer
Bearded Appliance Repair Thanks for clearing that up.
Will adding affresh and cycle on 'clean washer work? 🤔
Yes it can. That’s the first thing would try. If you’re still getting the code you will have to investigate further.
Great video! I need your advice if you could! My washer is making an airplane noise and shaking / jumping very hard. I couldn't figure out which part needs to be replaced! Here is the Model # GTWN7450H1WW
I really would appreciate your help.
It’s the tub bearing for the noise. The oem part is around $100 and an hour or more of work. Out of balance issue can be suspension rods or the bearing.
What to do when youve replaced the hub and is still not draining
If it is not draining you may have a bad drain pump or something stuck in it. This video was supposed to show the suds code and it not working properly due to the hub causing that code. This washer drained just fine. sounds like you have to investigate the drain issue your having.
Mine is doing ol help
Mine says oL
Is it draining? If water is not draining investigate that.
Could be suspension rods causing the error too. Check the rods to see if they are wore out.
Could be the hub as well. Will have to take it apart to figure that out though.
What specifics can you tell me. Ol code could be caused by a number of reasons.
I am having this problem. I read in the comments about an actuator/shifter. How can I tell which machine I have? Here is the model number, if that helps.
model: WTW8540BW1
type: 580-05
serial: C41172375
Thank for any help!!!!
You do not have an actuator/shifter on your model. This video features a similar washer to yours. Take out the wash plate and inspect that hub. That may be what you need.
Glad to help and excellent question!
@@BeardedApplianceRepair
Thanks again, was NOT looking forward to buying a new washer!!!
Bought a drain pump and hub kit today. Planning on installing them tomorrow.
@@ricktinker8033 how did it go?
@@chrisno6669
Replaced hub kit and drain pump. Runs like new.
Thanks!!!!!
Why do I have to change it every 3 months?
How the heck did anyone get that bolt off!!!!
Why can't they make the part out of metal? I think I will make a cast of it out of aluminum
So, my warranty company sent a tech out to "fix" this issue. The first time he fishe around the tub with a wire and pulled out a sock and a tiny pair of underwear that had to have been there for about 8 years. It worked for a few days and stopped working again, throwing the same code. He came back again, (forget what he did) it worked for a couple weeks). Then, started doing it again, finally he took the whole thing apart, he said it was thoroughly rusted (big long center bolt part-showed me and did replacement) worked for about two weeks. Now it's not working again, same code. Of course, I'm using the correct detergent in proper amounts. I even took a recording last time, there wasn't a sud in sight. He was a royal jerk, but is coming back tomorrow, told me that I was doing something wrong. I've done a lot of laundry. Not sure why I'd be screwing up my own washer.