Excuse the missing clip at minute 4:04 The actual clip that was there seems to be missing. Sorry for the inconvenience :( Also, at 15:08 i said minimum adjustement quantity. I meant minimum injection quanitity :)
@@DailyDrivenClasssics could my injection pump be in the wrong position? Would that cause the hunting on idle and excessive blue smoke out the exhaust?
@@E36TD.... could be. Hunting idle is usually too much fuel ad idle. Connect inpa and set it to 5 mg/ stroke on idle with the engine warmed up. Blue smoke is burning oil. White greyish smoke can also be unburned diesel
Thanks :) There is a bit of information about m51s out there but not a lot, you have to do a lot of forum digging to find most things. And even then a lot of information is unprecise or wrong.
Amazing video as usual, I managed to get my running a little better, noticed that the air temperature sensor under the inlet was covered in carbon, I'm going to clean my inlet and get rid of all the soot, crazy I've just bought a rare e36 td and you are making such useful and detailed content, hats off to you sir you are a genius,. Cheers from England
@E36TD.... @E36TD.... Thanks a lot :) I started this channel precisely to make m51 content because I didn't find any when I was looking for it. Congrats on your newly acquired e36 td:) Hope you can enjoy it, just make sure to refresh the cooling system since the td suffer even more with heat management than the tds counterpart. Thanks for watching !
@@DailyDrivenClasssics I went to the car yesterday, crank no start, I disconnected the air temperature sensor and it fired up, I cleaned it and it started alot better, I wonder if a good clean of the inlet manifold and a new sensor will help, it's full of carbon and soot, I've done a egr delete so I think that will help, I believe oven cleaner is good stuff to use? Do I need to replace the seals on the inlet or are they quite strong when taking it on and off from your experience?
@E36TD.... @E36TD.... A good clean of the intake system will surely help the engine, but I don't think it will affect the cold start behavior. I tried cleaning mine with oven and carb cleaner. The results were a bit dissapointing so I would suggest getting it stripped chemically. If I recall correctly the TIS manual says that seals are supposed to be changed every time you remove the air intake manifold on the aluminium versions and on plastic manifold it is ok to reuse them as long as the rubber is still in good condition. Ive reused mine on the aluminium manifold because I've just recently changed them, so I guess that's ok.
I love this. One note though ! stainless and aluminium alloy does not mix well. You will get corrosion, and you will never get them out again. One should only use steel bolts. If you want to make sure they can be removed again, one can use aluminium paste. as copper paste will corrode the aluminium
@@DailyDrivenClasssics i totally understand that. One needs to get things running. i used to work at a golf club as a mechanic. Thats how i know that stainless bolts in alloy will seeze up and be drilled out. and that's no easy task . resesaleing will last 17000km or so. and there is no shortage of vp37 either
Advance is variably adjusted in the whole spectrum by the means of fuel pressure modulated by modulating piston od the bottom of the pump. So no three settings, its infinitely variable (from base to pump maximum of course) according to water temperature, engine speed and injected quantity.
If it aint leaking there no real reason to do it since the top part requires a lot adjustement to get it back to a good postion. Engine oil is thicker than diesel so seals leak less. Waste veg oil is slightly acidic so it attacks seals more than used engine oil. Havent tried waste veg, but looking for a source. Waste oil works well of i do 50/50 with diesel. Also tried 95/5 oil and gasoline . Also works well especially in winter:)
@@DailyDrivenClasssics i want to be prepared as can be, and inspect the inside of the pump so i can see next time what damage the oil does to the pump. many m51 fans say 90/10 diesel mix is good, also 50/50 isn't that economical. i would go for veg oil, but i don't have a source and its kinda diffucult to get. also my winters are -25c, so i'm definitely adding a webasto and a coolant preheater before the pump. also am planning to adjust the shit out of the timing (maybe even beyond the DME limits) to get as smokeless and as powerful as possible, possibly a 530d turbo. suggestions?
@iplaycs3 @iplaycs3 Running oil is actually good for the pump since friction is reduced compared to straight dieseI. I havent found a lot on people running oil:( so i experimented conservatively. When the temperature is as low as where you live it is definetely necessary to go with a fuel heater especially for oil. Many american guys run 2 tank setups on their trucks. My timing is sitting at 6.5 degrees before tdc and it runs smooth without any smoke only on start up a tiny bit(car still has emission systems). also too agressive timing is bad for idi engine I wouldnt do it. 530d turbo has been done many times, you just need to delete variable geometry or adapt it. And you cant stay low mount since it interferes with the engine mount if im correct. Hope you can get everything sorted :)
You say "all internals look pretty much new and are in amazing condition". Unfortunately, I took apart my tired pump which took 10 seconds cranking on hot and had unstable idle to see what has been damaged and what was worn out. I take it apart, it looks brand new, mirror finish on every surface, not a scratch anywhere, everything is tight. Don't bank on it looking nice.
@Ziurkyss @Ziurkyss From what I've read on forums it is often the electronic top part that goes bad and not the bottom mechanical one. However I don't fully understand the electronic top part and don't know if it is repairable :( I just hope this pump is fine. I'm still in the process of hooking up diagnostics but have trouble doing so. I think youtube is not sending out notifications on comments because on my older videos I'm still waiting for answers to your comments there :) Thanks for the constructive and helpful comments and thanks for the support :)
@Ziurkyss @Ziurkyss I just managed to hook up my pc. I have error codes for the boost pressure sensor and the coolant sensor because the sensor plug is damaged and tomorrow I will figure the minimum injection quantity and injection timing :) Everything is coming together :)
@@DailyDrivenClasssics Great to hear. About the injection setting. You can even set it accurately without computer (with pc it's like about 5mg iirc) by just revving it. You set random injection close to the required, rev it up with full throttle to like 2.5 or 3k rpm and instantly release the throttle. You are looking at how the rpms fall. Let's say the idle at hot is 750rpm, when the rpm is dropping, if the dropping rpm stop before hitting the 750rpm and then drop slower to idle, it's too rich. If the rpms drop below 750 rpm and come back up, it's too lean. This might be the most accurate method of setting it.
@@DailyDrivenClasssics Might be various reasons I didn't reply, there was one time I replied to you on my phone, but then go on the pc, and there is no comment anywhere to be found (again?). If you want and see some use, we can contact in some other platform, maybe I could help with diesels (I tune diesel BMWs for hobby). Oh and the reply to your last comment got deleted twice I guess... I wanted to share a forum link...
I have loved the videos, it was exactly what I was looking for to work on my e34 525tds. Are you thinking about making some performance changes, like a cold air intake? Thank you and continue with this great content
@julioneves1610 @julioneves1610 Thanks for the support! Hope the work your gonna do on your e34 is gonna go smooth :) I think the air intake system is fairly well designed on the m51. For a td it would be more important to retrofit an intercooler. But i don't think I'm gonna do that. Just wanted to get the car back on the road, drive it for a few months and then quickly move on to the next project. Your welcome and I will keep making those videos :)
Jees you really went "all in" on that pump! Well done you! 🙌 The fuel pump on my Range Rover P38 doesn't need resealing just yet, but when it does, your videos will definitely help. 🙌 What country are you in? Thanks for the videos. 🙌
@13harward @13harward Thanks for the Support:) But I could have removed one more plate inside the pump to go deeper and could have disassembled the pump head.But since there are no relevant seals, I didn't do it. Glad to hear my videos help :) I'm from belgium.
@Leo-Archen @Leo-Archen Hi, I tend to confuse these diesel pumps with each other. I'll update the title to correct it. Thanks for the information, and apologies for any confusion. :)
I did this years ago on my e39. Make sure you calibrate the top part with inpa or ista. Best is 4-4,5mg diesel at idle. Very careful tapping needed with inpa hooked up to measure quantity.
@@DailyDrivenClasssics i see. Try loosening top car and tap top of pump alot To the back. That should do it. Also crack few injector lines open to bleed faster.
@@adem335i8 i bled the lines until diesel was everywhere in my room. Top part has been to the back of the pump and to the front. Still not a single ignition :(
Excuse the missing clip at minute 4:04 The actual clip that was there seems to be missing. Sorry for the inconvenience :(
Also, at 15:08 i said minimum adjustement quantity. I meant minimum injection quanitity :)
What size is the triangular socket on the injection pump? 6.5mm ?
@@E36TD.... on the socket it says 7mm
@@DailyDrivenClasssics could my injection pump be in the wrong position? Would that cause the hunting on idle and excessive blue smoke out the exhaust?
@@E36TD.... could be. Hunting idle is usually too much fuel ad idle. Connect inpa and set it to 5 mg/ stroke on idle with the engine warmed up. Blue smoke is burning oil. White greyish smoke can also be unburned diesel
Thank u. Very informative instruction. 👏
My leaky injection pump is next on the list. Cant thank you enough for the video!!! 🙌🏻
@piotrpotrzebny
@piotrpotrzebnyI'm glad it helped, that's why I made it :) Thanks for watching :)
@@DailyDrivenClasssics hats off for you mate. there's not a lot about m51s.. subbed since I've watched your first E34 video💪🏻
Thanks :) There is a bit of information about m51s out there but not a lot, you have to do a lot of forum digging to find most things. And even then a lot of information is unprecise or wrong.
Amazing video as usual, I managed to get my running a little better, noticed that the air temperature sensor under the inlet was covered in carbon, I'm going to clean my inlet and get rid of all the soot, crazy I've just bought a rare e36 td and you are making such useful and detailed content, hats off to you sir you are a genius,. Cheers from England
@E36TD....
@E36TD.... Thanks a lot :) I started this channel precisely to make m51 content because I didn't find any when I was looking for it. Congrats on your newly acquired e36 td:) Hope you can enjoy it, just make sure to refresh the cooling system since the td suffer even more with heat management than the tds counterpart. Thanks for watching !
@@DailyDrivenClasssics I went to the car yesterday, crank no start, I disconnected the air temperature sensor and it fired up, I cleaned it and it started alot better, I wonder if a good clean of the inlet manifold and a new sensor will help, it's full of carbon and soot, I've done a egr delete so I think that will help, I believe oven cleaner is good stuff to use? Do I need to replace the seals on the inlet or are they quite strong when taking it on and off from your experience?
@E36TD....
@E36TD.... A good clean of the intake system will surely help the engine, but I don't think it will affect the cold start behavior. I tried cleaning mine with oven and carb cleaner. The results were a bit dissapointing so I would suggest getting it stripped chemically. If I recall correctly the TIS manual says that seals are supposed to be changed every time you remove the air intake manifold on the aluminium versions and on plastic manifold it is ok to reuse them as long as the rubber is still in good condition. Ive reused mine on the aluminium manifold because I've just recently changed them, so I guess that's ok.
The memories, used to build and modify mechanical vps back in the day.
I love this. One note though ! stainless and aluminium alloy does not mix well. You will get corrosion, and you will never get them out again. One should only use steel bolts. If you want to make sure they can be removed again, one can use aluminium paste. as copper paste will corrode the aluminium
Youre right :) I should have thought abiut that. Unfortunately i just took whatever i could get in a rush :(
@@DailyDrivenClasssics i totally understand that. One needs to get things running. i used to work at a golf club as a mechanic. Thats how i know that stainless bolts in alloy will seeze up and be drilled out. and that's no easy task . resesaleing will last 17000km or so. and there is no shortage of vp37 either
nice vid!
@akriolis79 Thanks man!😇
Advance is variably adjusted in the whole spectrum by the means of fuel pressure modulated by modulating piston od the bottom of the pump. So no three settings, its infinitely variable (from base to pump maximum of course) according to water temperature, engine speed and injected quantity.
@@75L48 learned that after i made that video unfortunately.
thanks, will do this before converting my TDS to waste engine oil.
If it aint leaking there no real reason to do it since the top part requires a lot adjustement to get it back to a good postion. Engine oil is thicker than diesel so seals leak less. Waste veg oil is slightly acidic so it attacks seals more than used engine oil. Havent tried waste veg, but looking for a source. Waste oil works well of i do 50/50 with diesel. Also tried 95/5 oil and gasoline . Also works well especially in winter:)
@@DailyDrivenClasssics i want to be prepared as can be, and inspect the inside of the pump so i can see next time what damage the oil does to the pump. many m51 fans say 90/10 diesel mix is good, also 50/50 isn't that economical. i would go for veg oil, but i don't have a source and its kinda diffucult to get. also my winters are -25c, so i'm definitely adding a webasto and a coolant preheater before the pump. also am planning to adjust the shit out of the timing (maybe even beyond the DME limits) to get as smokeless and as powerful as possible, possibly a 530d turbo. suggestions?
@iplaycs3
@iplaycs3 Running oil is actually good for the pump since friction is reduced compared to straight dieseI. I havent found a lot on people running oil:( so i experimented conservatively. When the temperature is as low as where you live it is definetely necessary to go with a fuel heater especially for oil. Many american guys run 2 tank setups on their trucks. My timing is sitting at 6.5 degrees before tdc and it runs smooth without any smoke only on start up a tiny bit(car still has emission systems). also too agressive timing is bad for idi engine I wouldnt do it. 530d turbo has been done many times, you just need to delete variable geometry or adapt it. And you cant stay low mount since it interferes with the engine mount if im correct. Hope you can get everything sorted :)
You say "all internals look pretty much new and are in amazing condition". Unfortunately, I took apart my tired pump which took 10 seconds cranking on hot and had unstable idle to see what has been damaged and what was worn out. I take it apart, it looks brand new, mirror finish on every surface, not a scratch anywhere, everything is tight. Don't bank on it looking nice.
@Ziurkyss
@Ziurkyss
From what I've read on forums it is often the electronic top part that goes bad and not the bottom mechanical one. However I don't fully understand the electronic top part and don't know if it is repairable :( I just hope this pump is fine. I'm still in the process of hooking up diagnostics but have trouble doing so. I think youtube is not sending out notifications on comments because on my older videos I'm still waiting for answers to your comments there :) Thanks for the constructive and helpful comments and thanks for the support :)
@Ziurkyss
@Ziurkyss I just managed to hook up my pc. I have error codes for the boost pressure sensor and the coolant sensor because the sensor plug is damaged and tomorrow I will figure the minimum injection quantity and injection timing :) Everything is coming together :)
@@DailyDrivenClasssics Great to hear. About the injection setting. You can even set it accurately without computer (with pc it's like about 5mg iirc) by just revving it. You set random injection close to the required, rev it up with full throttle to like 2.5 or 3k rpm and instantly release the throttle. You are looking at how the rpms fall. Let's say the idle at hot is 750rpm, when the rpm is dropping, if the dropping rpm stop before hitting the 750rpm and then drop slower to idle, it's too rich. If the rpms drop below 750 rpm and come back up, it's too lean. This might be the most accurate method of setting it.
@@DailyDrivenClasssics Might be various reasons I didn't reply, there was one time I replied to you on my phone, but then go on the pc, and there is no comment anywhere to be found (again?). If you want and see some use, we can contact in some other platform, maybe I could help with diesels (I tune diesel BMWs for hobby).
Oh and the reply to your last comment got deleted twice I guess... I wanted to share a forum link...
@@DailyDrivenClasssics I just sent you a message there. Yes, temperature sensor is a must because it will work as if the engine was cold.
I have loved the videos, it was exactly what I was looking for to work on my e34 525tds.
Are you thinking about making some performance changes, like a cold air intake?
Thank you and continue with this great content
@julioneves1610
@julioneves1610 Thanks for the support! Hope the work your gonna do on your e34 is gonna go smooth :) I think the air intake system is fairly well designed on the m51. For a td it would be more important to retrofit an intercooler. But i don't think I'm gonna do that. Just wanted to get the car back on the road, drive it for a few months and then quickly move on to the next project. Your welcome and I will keep making those videos :)
Jees you really went "all in" on that pump! Well done you! 🙌
The fuel pump on my Range Rover P38 doesn't need resealing just yet, but when it does, your videos will definitely help. 🙌
What country are you in?
Thanks for the videos. 🙌
@13harward
@13harward Thanks for the Support:) But I could have removed one more plate inside the pump to go deeper and could have disassembled the pump head.But since there are no relevant seals, I didn't do it. Glad to hear my videos help :) I'm from belgium.
Fingers crossed this resolves your running problems :)
Hope is always good:) But if i can spoiler, it didnt :(
Hallo .
I didnt get it , why u speak of a VP 37 one , this is clearly a VE 6/10 E2400 , R515 specs.
So why u called it a VP 37 ?
Thanks .
@Leo-Archen
@Leo-Archen Hi, I tend to confuse these diesel pumps with each other. I'll update the title to correct it. Thanks for the information, and apologies for any confusion. :)
You're welkome 🙂
ohh is that how the hammer mod works
Pretty much it just increases full delivery right from idle😀
I did this years ago on my e39. Make sure you calibrate the top part with inpa or ista. Best is 4-4,5mg diesel at idle. Very careful tapping needed with inpa hooked up to measure quantity.
Yes i managed to hook up inpa just recently but the car wont start right now so im doing diagnostics rn :(
@@DailyDrivenClasssics did you set timing right via clock dial and rotating of pump? Altho it should start even without that
@@adem335i8 yups 🥲 and it wont start. I wanted to adjust timing with inpa aswell
@@DailyDrivenClasssics i see. Try loosening top car and tap top of pump alot
To the back. That should do it. Also crack few injector lines open to bleed faster.
@@adem335i8 i bled the lines until diesel was everywhere in my room. Top part has been to the back of the pump and to the front. Still not a single ignition :(