hey brother don't read the comments... some people just have to make sure they criticize someone else because that's the only way they can feel good about themselves....you did a fine job and you really made my future job easy...thank you...
Great video, aside from a couple things 1.You need a trim nail punch 2. You need to put your exposed nails in the accessory groove so they will be hidden and leak proof (you will caulk right over them and viola) 3. YOU NEED TO FOLD YOUR HEADER RETURN OVER THE HEADER FACE AND NOT THE OPPOSITE to shed water proper (sorry for the caps it just seemed necessary) Cheers from Detroit!
Totally agree,looks more like what a newbie does an not a professional mechanic would do Been doing this for 50yrs.would have been kicked off the job.Been sub contracting from same company for 37yrs .So I guess I am doing something right
Absolutely. Also I’d prebend those top corner return tabs before hanging the piece instead of hammering. He could use some proper lefts and rights. Also various sizes of hand seamers. You can also prebend tabs over a casing or windowsill shaped block. Hammering doesn’t allow over bending to make a crisp corner.
Thank you so much for giving your time to us! People like you are why TH-cam is great! Donating your time and knowledge to help someone you don’t even know. I can’t believe vids like this have negative ratings.. I a doing trim coil around my deck facia and if not for people like you I am lost when it comes to corners and how to fit them together. You don’t know how much I appreciate you giving your time and experience! Just to let you know, your time wasn’t wasted!
You're going to have serious water problems under your siding, not only do you not have a drip edge on your bottom flashing, but its actually going to direct the water underneath.
When the top piece was installed, shouldn’t the tab that was bent down at the corner have been bent over the vertical side piece to help keep water out?
Mr. Keeton, you are correct. That's the first thing I thought when I watched him doing it wrong. It is also important to note that, first, the nail holes should be pre-bored just slightly larger than the nail size, and second, that the nails should never be hammered all the way down. Doing the job his way will always result in aluminum that buckles and warps because no allowance has been made foe expansion and contraction.
12:45 if you talking about that... it's metal over metal so the water is just going under the vertical and then back on metal again. I think he was doing it that way for looks cause if you bend over that little top piece last, you're gonna see it.
The top tab bends last. should have glued the metal on with a try polymer caulking and bent your tabs on the ground with a hand brake. this would have prevented the gap on your miters. glue would also help holding those down. decent job though. I install and wrap replacement windows for 12 years now. cool to see others in the craft. Good brake work is under rated.
THEN U DO YOUR JOB WRONG EVERYDAY Eric b...if you can't lap aluminum proper then you should pump the breaks and watch more of these videos...and 13 people have liked that comment! You sound like a window customer, not an installer 🤔
@@jeff6369 i can lap aluminum just fine bud and i can flash anything. But when it comes to window laps like in the video you should glue the back. Thats why my work looks perfect and yours just looks "ok". Thats why my work lasts forever and yours maybe 10 years. Anyone with some experience knows a couple extra little tricks go a long way. If i felt like battling a troll i'd share one of my links and teach you something
Caulking the laps looks like shit.. The cap should not cave in like that and leave a gap..Good window installers not siding guys know how to cap without gaps that need caulked.. Not only does tne caulking look bad after a year or 2 it looks real bad after tne caulk gets dirty..
@@daveyboy8907 im talking about back caulk bud, it holds the laps together so they dont come loose after a little expansion contraction happens. Back caulk lasts for decades as it gets no UV. Any expert with custom bent flashings knows the benefits of back caulking...i guesd you arent that
How do you trim a vinyl window that has trim built in to it already? As in it’s one solid vinyl window but it’s built to be installed and you’re done. Between putting 3/4 foam and siding on, I need to aluminum trim over the vinyl trim to extend the window’s depth, but I have nothing to hammer a trim nails into on the inside by the windows itself because the whole thing’s vinyl
I have a question about the top piece. You fold over the two on each side in an interesting way. First, you fold the top fold down onto the side piece. Then, fold the longer front tab back. I understand this may look pleasing, but wont that allow water to run behind the front tab? It will sit on the top of the top piece and run to the end, then down the side behind the front tab but on the top tab?
+Vincent Minichino Hi Vincent, I think I understand your question and I agree that water will run down the top tab that is folded down. This will be behind the front tab that is folded back, but both surfaces are on top of the side piece (which continues to the top of the board all the way around). So any water that runs off the top should flow off at the sides and would be in between the two layers of aluminum for 3.5 inches, before continuing down the side aluminum wrap. Please let me know if this makes sense. It is harder to describe these things without additional pictures.
calvin miracle exactly bro who the hell turns the face of a header not to mention it got folded after the top so water can run right behind it. Plus where are his miters at hahaha Gene HACKman in the house. Flat metal benders crack me up. Where’s the crown profile? Heck even a 5 yr old could use a brake buddy if you can’t bend it your self.
I need to get this done on my newly constructed house. It is 1,550 square feet and I have a detached two car garage. I wonder how much it would cost (labor and material). I know there are many variables involved...
Is it ok to sometimes have exposed nails at the corner? Only one of my windows 🪟 out of 20 has two exposed nails at the corner. Not sure why nails were needed when they would be visible.
Correction: bend the side top pieces first-then bend the top down so it serves as a cap flashing When doing it the way you show, water gets in 💦💧😳Just being logical here but thanks for the good video otherwise. Don’t mean to offend...💯👍👊
It is mostly approximate. You will get use to over bending it a little, so it relaxes back to the angle that you are seeking. That part is fairly forgiving. Good luck!
I think dude did very good job for someone who doesn't do it for a living. It would definitely be good enough for me and my house. Hey bro can you give me hand doing entire house capping and siding??? Lol need cheap rates
New construction houses as shown in the video should have windows with a brickmould and nail fins. If there's no brickmould the good vinyl window should have a groove for the aluminum capping. We don't use the nails anymore, it's left in history. But it's a good video for those who looking for ideas or who want to start their own business.
good question had one once , took the scren winndow made a tab like he did on the outside perimeter but inside and sandwinches with caulking and brick part just good caulking or best caulking for extaroir
Thanks, this is helpful. I'm looking at a wrapping job today but have never done one. One question--is it really ok to use galvanized roofing nails thru the aluminum flanges? I've always heard never mix metals due to galvanic corrosion. I suppose with tape, siding, and caulk it won't matter.
Your right, aluminum nails should have been used to nail down the flange. I wouldn't expect very much corrosion in this case since most of the aluminum is covered with a pvc coating and the connections "should" be protected from water. Also, even if every galvanized nail failed, the aluminum wrap would still be held in place by the j-channel and aluminum trim nails. Some people don't install a flange at all, but I liked the extra water protection and taping between two flat surfaces. Thanks for the comment and good luck with your work :)
Bear Good Fruit It rots out the back side.... Also years late but. House wrap has to face with the letters up. The outside covering is literally pocketed down to run water off.
On the head, the side should’ve folded first, and the top tab to bend over that piece. Also where the head overlaps the jam, I seen that the two were not flush, and had a small gap.
first of all the sill should project out a 1./2 inch further then the side rails ...the way hes doing it is called picture frame style window trim...which looks cheap 2nd the nailing flange should be 2 in ...hes showing you a little 3/4 inch flange ….if you never done this call a pro.. it takes a lot to do this tools patience and skill ...and van mark brakes suck lol go ahead people hack it up
I do when using aluminum nails because the tend to bend. I prefer Stainless nails. I have nothing to do with this video. Do not cap like this weekend worrier
@@williammclaughlin9208 has nobody here actually installed window trim..."trim nail punch" if you don't know what that is you need to start carrying heavy things and cleaning until someone has a minute to teach you. I only predrill holes in fascia caps, and that's not to keep the nail from bending (TRIM NAIL PUNCH) it is to keep from bending/kinking the alum. But that's another subject...always nail your accessory groove and that's for 3 reasons.. 1.hide nail 2. Avoid unnecessary holes in the alum. 3.ability to adjust your piece if need be. But again, this method requires a trim nail punch...
+Pepe Segovia As long as they are aluminum and fairly well hidden it probably doesn't matter, but I have only seen people use the small aluminum nails that I was using in this video.
timothydarrin Thanks! These were replacement windows with a nailing flange. The 2x4s butt up against the edge of the window, but only cover the nailing flange.
Caulking laps looks like shit. So good for not doing that. And the reason there is gaps in the over laps is because the bends are a little too tight causing the face to concave a bit. Scoring and bending those outside upper tabs would have helped instead of Hammering but good job otherwise. And apparently no one noticed that there is going to be siding going on that wall which means J mold is going around the window and that's going to keep water from reaching the nailing finns on his bends. Water proof. Good, basic bends and installation otherwise. I do everything snug and lock fit when I can. Break work is very under rated. I do a lot of pieces where there is up to five to six bends per piece. Takes thinking and skill. People are so quick to judge others work.
It keeps the water out of the house. The metal keeps the water from getting behind the window and rotting the wood structure of the house. He is going to place a water barrier over the top of the metal edges on the area of the house where the siding goes. This will prevent water from leaking behind the metal flashing he installed.
same, I prefer to miter the corners as well, and bend the "flaps" with vice grip sheet metal pliers as opposed to hammering them over the wood. Though I bet his way is far faster than mine
I just had a crew come in and side a rental. He mitered all the corners. Looks like ass. They did poor quality all the way around, but I'd still rather have seen a straight cut. You miter that corner you better know what you're doing, or it's going to look terrible.
Not really good for tops, water will slide towards the corner and if the caulking is failed with time water will more likely get inside. But I use both options 10-degree angle on small pieces and straight cuts on wide pieces.
aluminum trim detail is so cheesy looking. it would look better to use a nicer wood trim and just paint it. i don't get this finish. nothing personal i just don't get it
This guy is terrible at his job. Will be sending a long to my vid soon. I hope nobody assembles their window wrap following his instructions. Very unprofessional
Yea, we often, in these parts of SW Kansas get something known as hail, very large hail. Since you flashed the outside of the window trim to go under the J channel how do you change the trim after the hail without taking the siding and channel off to change the wrap? I'm currently working a hailstorm after taking a couple of years off and doing other things due to burnout I've found that all the basic rules have changed. One of my customers ran off an incompetent crew that did really neat things like use high quality siding caulk to glue the fascia on as well as the window trim. This other cat also nailed the window trim an the sides of the facings. I was taught the siding biz from a second generation siding man. Rule number 1 was to keep everything independent of everything else so it can be replaced without disturbing the immediate surroundings. It's very......... dirty in these parts. The most common sealant used around the replacement window is silicone. A fella took me by his place and asked me if I'd do the window wraps hail recently damaged. My girlfriend stayed in the car for a few minutes. She got out and asked what the dark brown line was where the window meets the metal trim. It's silicone and crews that use silicone will forever seal the fate of ever using anything but silicone to rid this nasty looking caulk and the dirt it attracts.
hey brother don't read the comments... some people just have to make sure they criticize someone else because that's the only way they can feel good about themselves....you did a fine job and you really made my future job easy...thank you...
Great video, aside from a couple things
1.You need a trim nail punch
2. You need to put your exposed nails in the accessory groove so they will be hidden and leak proof (you will caulk right over them and viola)
3. YOU NEED TO FOLD YOUR HEADER RETURN OVER THE HEADER FACE AND NOT THE OPPOSITE to shed water proper (sorry for the caps it just seemed necessary)
Cheers from Detroit!
Are you saying he should have folded the header sides tabs down first then the tabs of the top of the header down over it on the sides?
@@DD-ne4um That is correct.
Totally agree,looks more like what a newbie does an not a professional mechanic would do
Been doing this for 50yrs.would have been kicked off the job.Been sub contracting from same company for 37yrs .So I guess I am doing something right
Absolutely. Also I’d prebend those top corner return tabs before hanging the piece instead of hammering. He could use some proper lefts and rights. Also various sizes of hand seamers. You can also prebend tabs over a casing or windowsill shaped block. Hammering doesn’t allow over bending to make a crisp corner.
I was really wondering about that . Should he have left a bit more so it meets the side rof the house?
Thank you so much for giving your time to us! People like you are why TH-cam is great! Donating your time and knowledge to help someone you don’t even know. I can’t believe vids like this have negative ratings.. I a doing trim coil around my deck facia and if not for people like you I am lost when it comes to corners and how to fit them together. You don’t know how much I appreciate you giving your time and experience! Just to let you know, your time wasn’t wasted!
For the actual wrapping of a window, skip to 6:45
You should have your sill piece angled so water rolls off, not flat so you’re counting on silicone to seal the bottom
It looks better when you 45 the corners. My windows look way better like that. I dont even use nails. But great video. Keep doing a good job man...
You're going to have serious water problems under your siding, not only do you not have a drip edge on your bottom flashing, but its actually going to direct the water underneath.
When the top piece was installed, shouldn’t the tab that was bent down at the corner have been bent over the vertical side piece to help keep water out?
My man!!! See Rickey knows what's up..
Mr. Keeton, you are correct. That's the first thing I thought when I watched him doing it wrong. It is also important to note that, first, the nail holes should be pre-bored just slightly larger than the nail size, and second, that the nails should never be hammered all the way down. Doing the job his way will always result in aluminum that buckles and warps because no allowance has been made foe expansion and contraction.
12:45 if you talking about that... it's metal over metal so the water is just going under the vertical and then back on metal again. I think he was doing it that way for looks cause if you bend over that little top piece last, you're gonna see it.
@@CougarLand lengthen the top piece to come down further to the bottom of piece bending back.. a shorter one wouldnt look good you are correct
The top tab bends last. should have glued the metal on with a try polymer caulking and bent your tabs on the ground with a hand brake. this would have prevented the gap on your miters. glue would also help holding those down. decent job though. I install and wrap replacement windows for 12 years now. cool to see others in the craft. Good brake work is under rated.
Where are you located?
I do 6-10 replacement windows everyday with my buddy...Gotta caulk those laps bro they're too loosey goosey c'mon you uploaded an instructional video
THEN U DO YOUR JOB WRONG EVERYDAY Eric b...if you can't lap aluminum proper then you should pump the breaks and watch more of these videos...and 13 people have liked that comment! You sound like a window customer, not an installer 🤔
@@jeff6369 i can lap aluminum just fine bud and i can flash anything. But when it comes to window laps like in the video you should glue the back. Thats why my work looks perfect and yours just looks "ok". Thats why my work lasts forever and yours maybe 10 years. Anyone with some experience knows a couple extra little tricks go a long way. If i felt like battling a troll i'd share one of my links and teach you something
Caulking the laps looks like shit.. The cap should not cave in like that and leave a gap..Good window installers not siding guys know how to cap without gaps that need caulked.. Not only does tne caulking look bad after a year or 2 it looks real bad after tne caulk gets dirty..
@@daveyboy8907 im talking about back caulk bud, it holds the laps together so they dont come loose after a little expansion contraction happens. Back caulk lasts for decades as it gets no UV. Any expert with custom bent flashings knows the benefits of back caulking...i guesd you arent that
ericb studios 👍🏼👍🏼 yeah that's better.. lol I have seen so many shitty installers caulk the seams that it drives me nuts lol take care man
Nice informative video! Thanks for sharing
How do you trim a vinyl window that has trim built in to it already? As in it’s one solid vinyl window but it’s built to be installed and you’re done. Between putting 3/4 foam and siding on, I need to aluminum trim over the vinyl trim to extend the window’s depth, but I have nothing to hammer a trim nails into on the inside by the windows itself because the whole thing’s vinyl
I'd like to do this to my window but with PVC! Is there a video to help me out ?? Great work overall though !
I have a question about the top piece. You fold over the two on each side in an interesting way. First, you fold the top fold down onto the side piece. Then, fold the longer front tab back. I understand this may look pleasing, but wont that allow water to run behind the front tab? It will sit on the top of the top piece and run to the end, then down the side behind the front tab but on the top tab?
+Vincent Minichino Hi Vincent, I think I understand your question and I agree that water will run down the top tab that is folded down. This will be behind the front tab that is folded back, but both surfaces are on top of the side piece (which continues to the top of the board all the way around). So any water that runs off the top should flow off at the sides and would be in between the two layers of aluminum for 3.5 inches, before continuing down the side aluminum wrap. Please let me know if this makes sense. It is harder to describe these things without additional pictures.
You should j the poening and start casings with a 5. 8ths by 1 half to hook j and cover to window stop
Vincent Minichino
I'd fire anyone who does this to a window it looks like crap. Prime example why people don't like vinyl siding anymore. It's all about the installer
calvin miracle exactly bro who the hell turns the face of a header not to mention it got folded after the top so water can run right behind it. Plus where are his miters at hahaha Gene HACKman in the house. Flat metal benders crack me up. Where’s the crown profile? Heck even a 5 yr old could use a brake buddy if you can’t bend it your self.
Is this needed if I do pvc trim board?
Do they sell pre bent aluminum where i can just cut it to size for my window ?
Do you have any info on doors?
What do you use for padding the windows if you needed more than 3/4 of an inch?
I need to get this done on my newly constructed house. It is 1,550 square feet and I have a detached two car garage. I wonder how much it would cost (labor and material). I know there are many variables involved...
The exact video I've been looking for.
Ll
Pop
How much of the window seal is wrapped, in the area where the screen rests? Is there a standard practice?
Looks nice man
Is it ok to sometimes have exposed nails at the corner? Only one of my windows 🪟 out of 20 has two exposed nails at the corner. Not sure why nails were needed when they would be visible.
Correction: bend the side top pieces first-then bend the top down so it serves as a cap flashing When doing it the way you show, water gets in 💦💧😳Just being logical here but thanks for the good video otherwise. Don’t mean to offend...💯👍👊
How to make a box for on top of a column?
mitered corners are the way to go but I understand that option isn't always available in renovations
Why doesn't anyone miter the bottom side pieces and the top??? Looks so much better and professional
How do you measure the angle of the bend on the brake?
It is mostly approximate. You will get use to over bending it a little, so it relaxes back to the angle that you are seeking. That part is fairly forgiving. Good luck!
I think dude did very good job for someone who doesn't do it for a living. It would definitely be good enough for me and my house. Hey bro can you give me hand doing entire house capping and siding??? Lol need cheap rates
New construction houses as shown in the video should have windows with a brickmould and nail fins. If there's no brickmould the good vinyl window should have a groove for the aluminum capping. We don't use the nails anymore, it's left in history. But it's a good video for those who looking for ideas or who want to start their own business.
very nice job, well done all the way through
Did you put that over pressure treated wood?
Doesn't look like it. But it should stay dry under the aluminum.
do you have a video for trimming out a replacement window in a brick home?
good question had one once , took the scren winndow made a tab like he did on the outside perimeter but inside and sandwinches with caulking and brick part just good caulking or best caulking for extaroir
Thanks, this is helpful. I'm looking at a wrapping job today but have never done one. One question--is it really ok to use galvanized roofing nails thru the aluminum flanges? I've always heard never mix metals due to galvanic corrosion. I suppose with tape, siding, and caulk it won't matter.
Your right, aluminum nails should have been used to nail down the flange. I wouldn't expect very much corrosion in this case since most of the aluminum is covered with a pvc coating and the connections "should" be protected from water. Also, even if every galvanized nail failed, the aluminum wrap would still be held in place by the j-channel and aluminum trim nails. Some people don't install a flange at all, but I liked the extra water protection and taping between two flat surfaces. Thanks for the comment and good luck with your work :)
Bear Good Fruit It rots out the back side.... Also years late but. House wrap has to face with the letters up. The outside covering is literally pocketed down to run water off.
@@Alamyst2011 I didn't see any house wrap, just foam insulation.
@@johnbriggs7514 Foam is house wrap. It also has a directional flow.
@@Alamyst2011 Can you tell me more. I see no directional features on foam or tyvek.
On the head, the side should’ve folded first, and the top tab to bend over that piece. Also where the head overlaps the jam, I seen that the two were not flush, and had a small gap.
Acrost?
first of all the sill should project out a 1./2 inch further then the side rails ...the way hes doing it is called picture frame style window trim...which looks cheap 2nd the nailing flange should be 2 in ...hes showing you a little 3/4 inch flange ….if you never done this call a pro.. it takes a lot to do this tools patience and skill ...and van mark brakes suck lol go ahead people hack it up
Im assuming you're a Tapco fan? why do van marks as you put it suck?
Why wouldn’t you make 1 more bend onto the sheathing so you can nail the aluminum onto sheathing and never ever leak
Have you ever pre-drilled nail holes for fascia metal?
I do when using aluminum nails because the tend to bend. I prefer Stainless nails. I have nothing to do with this video. Do not cap like this weekend worrier
@@williammclaughlin9208 has nobody here actually installed window trim..."trim nail punch" if you don't know what that is you need to start carrying heavy things and cleaning until someone has a minute to teach you. I only predrill holes in fascia caps, and that's not to keep the nail from bending (TRIM NAIL PUNCH) it is to keep from bending/kinking the alum. But that's another subject...always nail your accessory groove and that's for 3 reasons..
1.hide nail
2. Avoid unnecessary holes in the alum.
3.ability to adjust your piece if need be.
But again, this method requires a trim nail punch...
Also, use right angle snips and straights for the cut on your outside flange. or just use Lefts and rights.
what about double windows
got question sir ? what's the best option nails or staples?
+Pepe Segovia As long as they are aluminum and fairly well hidden it probably doesn't matter, but I have only seen people use the small aluminum nails that I was using in this video.
How did you measure to know you needed 10" strips?
Greg Stephens You measure the dimensions of the casing you are wrapping.
Great video. It looks like your 2x4 blocking overlaps the jambs of the window. Is that true?
timothydarrin Thanks! These were replacement windows with a nailing flange. The 2x4s butt up against the edge of the window, but only cover the nailing flange.
Very helpful. Thank you!
Always bend the two bends that arawy from the bend that go on the window
Caulking laps looks like shit. So good for not doing that. And the reason there is gaps in the over laps is because the bends are a little too tight causing the face to concave a bit. Scoring and bending those outside upper tabs would have helped instead of Hammering but good job otherwise. And apparently no one noticed that there is going to be siding going on that wall which means J mold is going around the window and that's going to keep water from reaching the nailing finns on his bends. Water proof. Good, basic bends and installation otherwise. I do everything snug and lock fit when I can. Break work is very under rated. I do a lot of pieces where there is up to five to six bends per piece. Takes thinking and skill. People are so quick to judge others work.
The 3rd wu chang is watching this video aka me wassup
12.41 negative lap
what about a brick mould bend?
rammex rammex 1x1x5/8x5\8Rx3\4. Brick mold
I would have thought that the top would go over the side lap myself
thanks for sharing Good Fruit.. God Bless : )
I would rather have vynil windows with the j pocket it in it already and forget all that water trap bullcrap
I hear ya...Amateurs...See how pretty the brake was? Renter...
Use shims in the window seems instead of nails through cap. I hate seeing nails in the window cap.
Shims. never heard of that but. Wen done with color nails nailed in proper place with nail punch and you would see the nails
If placed the aluminum in the utility grove and caulked you would never see the nails.
I might be slow, but why would you want to do this? Why not just paint it?
To never paint again.
It keeps the water out of the house. The metal keeps the water from getting behind the window and rotting the wood structure of the house. He is going to place a water barrier over the top of the metal edges on the area of the house where the siding goes. This will prevent water from leaking behind the metal flashing he installed.
@@keithfillinger3182 it also locks in moisture causing further rot
Why don't you 45 your corners. Wouldn't it look a bit more professional if you made them? Or is there a reason you leave them straight?
It's just preference
dont like it man quality is good but i woulda 45 my corners.looks so much better
same, I prefer to miter the corners as well, and bend the "flaps" with vice grip sheet metal pliers as opposed to hammering them over the wood. Though I bet his way is far faster than mine
I just had a crew come in and side a rental. He mitered all the corners. Looks like ass. They did poor quality all the way around, but I'd still rather have seen a straight cut. You miter that corner you better know what you're doing, or it's going to look terrible.
Not really good for tops, water will slide towards the corner and if the caulking is failed with time water will more likely get inside. But I use both options 10-degree angle on small pieces and straight cuts on wide pieces.
@@joshchristensen97 yea bc it takes an engineer to cut straight thanks for the comment
Thank you
Que jeopardy music
Why not 45 your corners
13 minute video that, without the extra talking, could have been 5 minutes.
Looks alright for a shed
You could have framed that widow out with vinyl brick mold and forgot all about the crappy job you did wrapping it.
Only butchers don't mitre the face corners...It looks much nicer...A good capping job is blind nailed...
Didnt even prime and seal the bare wood I bet by now that wood is rotted ,
A man's tin snips speaks volume...and it tells me that you don't have a clue....WISS Red & Green handle snips..
If I worked this slow and crappy I would be fired
That piece hanging out doesn't look right. I don't like the way that looks.
Lol....that was so negative in a way that could not be constructive at all
..thanks for your generic mindless comment...no1 cares what u think..
aluminum trim detail is so cheesy looking. it would look better to use a nicer wood trim and just paint it. i don't get this finish. nothing personal i just don't get it
Cause It's relatively maintenance free.
@@TT-ez3hr Exactly. Painting exteriors suck. And trim constatntly needs it. 'Specially in the north.
Ok what English language you using because you keep saying CUT ACROST. What the hell is ACROST? There is and has never been a T in Across
It is a variant called Englisht... ;)
@@beargoodfruit1726 LOL
too much talking
BUTCHER!!!!
Tom Kat stfu
Too much talking just "DO IT!"
Lol
Get a camera stand
I thought the same thing. Would've been nice to see the brake in action.
Why did you repeat yourself at the beginning of the video?
This guy is terrible at his job. Will be sending a long to my vid soon. I hope nobody assembles their window wrap following his instructions. Very unprofessional
Yea, we often, in these parts of SW Kansas get something known as hail, very large hail. Since you flashed the outside of the window trim to go under the J channel how do you change the trim after the hail without taking the siding and channel off to change the wrap?
I'm currently working a hailstorm after taking a couple of years off and doing other things due to burnout I've found that all the basic rules have changed. One of my customers ran off an incompetent crew that did really neat things like use high quality siding caulk to glue the fascia on as well as the window trim. This other cat also nailed the window trim an the sides of the facings.
I was taught the siding biz from a second generation siding man. Rule number 1 was to keep everything independent of everything else so it can be replaced without disturbing the immediate surroundings.
It's very......... dirty in these parts. The most common sealant used around the replacement window is silicone. A fella took me by his place and asked me if I'd do the window wraps hail recently damaged. My girlfriend stayed in the car for a few minutes. She got out and asked what the dark brown line was where the window meets the metal trim. It's silicone and crews that use silicone will forever seal the fate of ever using anything but silicone to rid this nasty looking caulk and the dirt it attracts.
@@archaicroger, what caulk should be for windows?
@@1weirddoe571 OSI QUAD CAULK or NOVAFLEX
Don’t ever do this
I hope this isn't this guys day job.
You sir, just made my job very easy! Thanks