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@@ZEEKUPP I sold the house since then, but checked in with the new owners a little while back. They said there was some minor leakage a few years in, but they touched up the epoxy and haven't had any issues since.

@@beargoodfruit1726 Thank you.

Is there any smoke that lingers from the furnace?

@@ryandraeger6392 I think we were at the upper end of the heating capacity with our big old house, which shortened the time for us. There is a stoker fan that comes in when the thermostat calls for heat. This will generate more heat but also burn through the wood much faster. That said, during the coldest times we needed to refill after 4 hours or so. At moderate temperatures, we could go 8 hours. The wood type and moisture level matter too. Our wood wasn't good quality and had higher moisture than it should have, but we got it all for free and it was our first season. We plan ahead better now.

@@thedampestcrib6004 Yes, it has a dual blower. I think we were on the upper end of the capacity with 3500-4200 sqft and an old house, but it did well. We had to supplement the heat when we got down below 20-25F I believe, but we didn't have it ducted and the home could use more insulation. It still kept us toasty for much of the winter without any added fuel cost.

@beargoodfruit1726 well we have ducted and 80% insulated so far so should be good and 3500 sq ft

@@thedampestcrib6004 You should be in much better shape than we were then. I did need to feed it fairly often (as much as every three hours when it was very cold). I moved about 8 months ago and installed an outdoor wood boiler at the new house with water lines that run to the home. This has drastically increased the amount of time I can go between loading.

@beargoodfruit1726 our is completely destroyed inside so we burn alot no bricks none of the air vents work to help burn but it's 20 years old and out of business

@thedampestcrib6004 Good time for an upgrade then :) I believe this unit counts for the federal rebate, so that should help reduce the cost too.

@@bryandano I didn't, but also didn't think about contacting them at the time. We have moved and installed an outdoor wood boiler for our new house. I put a few videos up and plan to make a summary video at some point before long.

@@scottdarrow1551 We didn't do anything to adjust the pitch. The system still seems to be working well after many years.

@@brucecapron9344 Six months-ish ago and for the reasonable past it has been a free service. Something changed and now they are charging. It sounds like there is a chance it will change back, but I needed to move forward because the net metering law is also changing (Illinois). Glad it wasn't worse though :)

@@BowedSiren640Xbox It is confusing to me too. They said DC always requires conduit, underground, inside, in joists/walls, etc. AC doesn't seem to have the same restrictions. I don't understand why they have different requirements.

@@HerculesRockefellerESQ The lines are actually directly buried, without conduit. I have been told that DC requires conduit in all cases, but they can do direct bury for AC. The whole process took about 2.5 hours, making it a little over $1,000/hr 😬

@@howlandexcavating Thanks, I appreciate it!

@ you’re welcome. I apologize, I wasn’t more specific. I didn’t realize dinner was done when I was commenting so I rushed lol. The problem is the shark bite. You will want a good crimp connection. The pex will expand over 1 inch for every 10° rise in temperature per 100 feet! So every season when you start the fire or during the season, if the fire goes out and the water temperature drops, as the water heats back up the pex tubing will grow in length. Of course, as it cools it gets shorter. Overtime this causes the shark bite connections to leak. This problem is multiplied if the pex is not installed in a sleeve, like most of the commercially produced insulated boiler pipe. The bubble wrap type pipe is less susceptible to this problem because there is space between the pipe and the sleeve (black drainage tile). The urethane insulated pipe will allow a little expansion by compressing the foam that is inside of the sleeve. If you bury the pipe directly in the soil, depending on the soil type, it won’t allow much room for expansion, so the pipe will increase in length significantly. If you get a chance to watch that video, That my friend made you will see near the end I actually have a pump installed midway in a manhole under the ground. This is because my boiler is 500 feet from my house. Anyway, after the boiler is up to temperature in the fall and I start my pumps up, I can actually watch the pipe grow in length inside the manhole. The pipe starts out straight through the manhole, and once it heats up to temperature, it is deflected in a curve. It is amazing and the craziest thing that this pipe can actually increase in size as much as it does! There is a TH-camr called trees to firewood, I warned him about this when he was installing the shark bite connections. Anyway, last year he had some leaks he showed on a video when his water temperature dropped on him. Anyway, I hope this information helps.

@@herculespapadimitrakis3244 Hi, I would just scoop out as much as I could with a cup. You will probably still need to have some towels down to soak up the remaining water.

It is pretty cool to see and climb on 😂

@@Firewoodguy-t6m Thanks!

Thanks! Yes, these aren't very common, especially within a city. The renewable energy, long term cost savings and resilience aspects were the driving factors for us. Thanks!

You are right. I didn't catch it myself and really appreciate the comment. The plumber that hooked it up will be coming back out to fix it in a few days. I will post an updated video at some point. Thanks again!

@beargoodfruit1726 looks great otherwise! Good luck 👍

@@copernicusvanstruselclit9508 Everything seems to have worked well. The frost line in this area is about 2.5 feet down. The foundation had settled over time, but the issues that led to the settling should be resolved now.

@@MrPONCHO467 Hi, I don't think so, but I am currently installing an outdoor wood boiler that will connect to the hydronic radiator heating system I have in my new house (I moved again). This one would be perfect for your application. I will be installing portions of it this weekend and hope to have a video out before long.

@beargoodfruit1726 thank you for the fast response

@@waynerwaldron9336 Menards website has all the documents that should come with it. They are free to download.

Uh Menards has an installation pdf for that model I was checking it out to maybe purchase hope that helps.

@@kingdomcome82 We considered connecting to the ductwork. We have two entirely different ducted systems, so we would have needed to pick on. We also finished a room in the basement at the same time and this is the only source of heat dedicated to that space, but could have split off to heat both. It actually worked fairly well without connecting to the ductwork. I was planning on adding insulation to the basement walls, but we actually moved to another home nearby in the last few months. We bought an outdoor wood boiler for the new house and I plan to share videos on the new system before long as well.

The shorter answer is that it worked pretty well without ducting it in and I moved on to other projects, but I likely would have connected it eventually if we were still there. We do still own the home and use it as a short term rental, so we haven't been using the wood furnace.

@@sathyagopan1980 Hi, no problem. This is the name on Menards site: United States Stove Company™ Hot Blast Wood Stove Furnace Here is the link: www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/fireplaces-stoves/wood-furnaces/united-states-stove-company-trade-hot-blast-wood-stove-furnace-3-500-sq-ft/hb1520/p-1642874267271913-c-12809.htm

@@StreetSmartFinance It would depend on the size of the windows and how efficiently you can use it, but you can do quite a bit. The material is fairly inexpensive compared to the labor for this work.

I sold the home, but talked to the new owner not too long ago and they said it was working well. They said they touched up the epoxy in one area once, but otherwise it has been great.

This is one situation where oversizing would be very helpful. It might have more capacity than needed, but it would help you go longer between times when you need to add more wood, which would be incredibly helpful. We are able to keep up with the set point down to around 25 F, but that requires us to feed it every couple hours when it is that cold. If we had a smaller home (or better insulated), then we would just stoke it less which would make the wood last longer. My general understanding is that the more air you give it, the higher the heat output, but you are sacrificing efficiency and need to add wood more often. When we aren't at the edge of its heating capacity, I try to stoke it to get a hit fire/coals, then close down the oxygen supply to just the normal convection draft. I think this provides the highest efficiency.

In this case more is better … you should have no issue’s keeping your home nice and warm

Hi Victor, It could definitely be installed on the first floor. We just had a convenient spot in the basement. It puts out a lot of heat and has been really nice this winter. Good luck!

Mine is in my attached 2 car garage I ran ductwork under the floor of my family room to the ductwork of the house

@@Jimmy-d1i1r It’s Federally Illegal to have a solid fuel burning appliance in an attached garage. If your house burns down or there are any damages….Insurance will not cover the damages

@ the house was inspected by the insurance company and the town code enforcement before I bought the house because it was zoned commercial and it was being switched back to residential.. no one said anything about it and it’s not being used for cars

I am glad it helped. As a minor update, we use the shower daily and the repair has held up perfectly so far. Good luck!