How to Properly Flash a Window
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 เม.ย. 2020
- Last summer we hired a new crew member. When it came time to hang windows, I clamped a GoPro to the fascia and recorded the installation. This can be used as a reference for new crew members, but it can also be used to show potential clients our methods.
We have used Huber Engineered Wood Zip System for 11 years and now. One major reason we like this system is the simplicity of flashing openings and penetrations. Managing bulk water is very important for the longevity of the structure, but it also lowers our risk. Thanks to ZIP System for sponsoring this video.
Check out my blog for the rest of the installation. www.awesomeframers.com/blog/h...
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From a glazier to a framer, we’ll done! Exactly how I do flashing and install.
I like that awesome is looking creatively at balancing costs time quality and endurance. I think many windows we see on utube are over flashed- of course if you are spending 1,000mplus on some houses/sites (you know who I’m talking about) spending $60 on materials let insuppose makes sense .
Thanks I have seen so many not do this step.
Can't fail with this video. I always wondered why it was so drafty near the windows. 😊
Corner tape should be installed prior to flashing the sill
Thanks for sharing such a simple and effective way. I watched some other videos and they tape the entire opening then caulk and install window then retake with sill open. 🤷🏻♂️🤦♂️ such a waste of money for the same air and water tight results.
always , always , always ! , thanks , that will stick with me now !😮 , excellent footage on How To
Nice job guys! That's a proper way to install a window and I've been installing new construction and replacement windows for over 40 years! Nice tight seal!
Thanks!!
Thanks for showing me that little batwing trick in the corner. I'm going to remember that one.
How lucky is Shane getting taught off of you guys
How do you caulk/foam/insulate the window on the inside after you have it set like in this video?
Thank you
Very nice
Thanks so much John
Always always always!!! Great video!
Thanks Frank ;-)
Great video! Quick question. You mentioned in one of your reply’s you seal the window along the bottom in the inside as to direct water out the front where nail flange is. What product do you seal it with? And is the the same product you used along the top and side nail flange prior to installing? Appreciate all the insight and time you guys spend on these videos! Cheers.
Not them, but, I believe in acrylic or poly caulking a little more than just a painter's grade latex caulking. However if you flash the window right, and then seal around the window with the spray foam, the foam should do the same thing so long as the foam adheres to your window and the flashed sill.
Got start with the corner. Piece and them lay the bottom tape.
Great video! Why do you put the zip tape on the inside of the window for the bottom section? Why not the outside like you did for the top and sides?
The sill gets taped as a sill pan, then window set on it, after install the legs and head of the window get taped to the wall. This allows any moisture to be able to drain. Well that's the conventional wisdom.
The corner tape should go in first, then the tape covering the sill on top if it. I understand that there is still tape going over that, but it's best practice to cover all your tape edges unless they are adhering to the wall or framing
I don't agree and if you look at other manufacturer's instructions, sill is taped, then corner pieces from there. It doesn't actually matter since its all stuck together and rolled.
You don't need to cut the tape. All you have to do is stretch it down over the corners.
Maybe stretch on bottom all the way, better integrity...But I see your point...if a penetration, it would have to get around top seal, then the stretch (very unlikely)
@@AwesomeFramers I must demur…it’s technically reverse shingled unless the corner goes on first…
Liquid flash on sill and up t inches on flange-simple easy monolithic I’m critical area to be flashed. When you compare prosocco liquid flash at proper thickness to zip tape, esp full stretch , in sill and up 4-6 inches. No that much more expensive and less than an hour to set ; no worries Re rolling tape vigorously and fully, no ripples fish mouths in tape etc.and do repeat, OF water gets in, and it will. How does it exit this Sherman? You’ve sealed off bottom flange and all four interior sides
Shane, you’re supposed to laugh at the bosses’ jokes, buddy 😅
I really want some of this but in the uk its 400 quid, gutted because I can't find anything similar to fix a leaking summer house
So a couple bought my grandparents home and they want to seal the windows. The house is over 100 years old and I have been helping them restore it, that will be key when we get around to that
Wow! Am I over flashing zip wall systems? this is exactrly how I flash regular typar homes, but on zip systems I was taught to flash the entire opening. Top, sides, and bottom, and bring the tape from the outside all the way flush to the inside. Tons of zip tape(which isn't cheap).
I guess the argument is, they caulked under the fin and taped over the fin. The flashing inside the frame wouldn't prevent water intrusion from getting in. That said, I flash the framing as well. I don't want water inside the wall cavity. I'd rather have it weep on the drywall side in a worst case scenario.
Great Video. As a new soon to be home owner(new build). I want to know about some standards. I see you used the stretch to overlay the corners (which were cut with zip tape), to prevent water intrusion.
1)Is it better or safer to just use the stretch period instead of overlaying, as this would provide better integrity?
2)Also, I see you did not put zip tape around the perimeter of frame before you installed the window, is this minimum standard ? Is it overkill if you did or just a peace of mind thing???
3)Also , is there a minumum overlap of tape on bottom of sill required.??
There is no inherent advantage in a single piece sill with the Stretch tape. Minimum overlaps are 1" with the Zip tapes. I say save the money and use the 6" for the sill and Stretch in the corners. When the tapes bond to each other (don't forget to roll the tape), this stuff isn't going to come apart.
I don't see any advantage in putting Zip around the opening, then hanging the window, then taping again. Some people do that for air sealing, but it isn't necessary for weatherizing the window install.
Nice, low-cost, quick-to-install flashing detail. I presume you use sealant/backer rod for interior air sealing? If so, what sealant do you use? Do you slope your sills 5 degrees or don't you find that necessary?
I don't bother with the sloped sill
I disagree...5 degree is slope not a bad thing....small detail that just makes sense!
Do you install any kind of z flashing over the top of the window here?
For the corners I would first place the 6” down in each then the roll all along.
Thank you! What screws did you use for installing the window? Also, I saw you measure the diagonals from corner to corner, how could you change that if it were off?
Hey Vinny great questions. I buy 2" wood screws because the head has a low profile. GRK makes a great cabinet screw that works very well too. As far as adjusting the window, a prybar on the inside of house between the window unit and framing will move the window. Keep in mind that if you are 1/4" (we never are) out of square you only need to move 1/2 that, or 1/8". Typically we are at most 1/8" out of square so just a small adjustment is required.
@@AwesomeFramerswhen I was installing windows I used a 7.5 x 120mm T25 masonry screw most of the time.
How would you do this if your house is wrapped, say tyvec. Same way?
What about aluminum flashing on top of the window?
How is the sill sealed to the framing? You’re not taping the bottom nailfin. Are you caulking the back of the bottom nailfin when you do the others? Thanks for the info!
Best practice is to not tape the bottom nailfin because if a little water (or condensation) somehow gets past the sides or top, it needs a way out. I'm not sure what the best practice is on whether to caulk the bottom nailfin. Logic would suggest you leave that out too for the same reason.
I'm trying to learn how to do this so I have a couple questions if you don't mind answering them. You first put the flashing tape on the sill and up the sides, then you followed with flex tape on those bottom corners. Why not put the flex tape in those corners then put the tape over that on the sill/sides? Seems like that would be the better way to shed water if it got in and ran down the sides. My second question is why not tape all the way up the sides and the top of the opening? Wouldn't that be a good idea to prevent any air that gets behind the window from making its way into the house? I know that some people don't put sealant on the bottom flange of the window so that any water that gets in can escape (not sure if you did that here or not) but if you did and the window has a great seal to the sheathing then I guess I can see why you wouldn't need to run tape all the way up the sides and across the top.
Hey Josh, great questions. The reason I used the Stretch Tape in the bottom corners over the sill tape is because back in the day that is how the premade corners installed. I did ask around and it seems like this is a 50% prefer 1 way and the other 50% the other. I think its important to understand that these are "self-terminating" flashings and bond so well that it doesn't ultimately matter.
As to taping the sheathing to the jam all the way around for air sealing, we've blower door tested hundreds of windows installed this way (when the house is finished) and they are air tight. What I didn't show in this video is the other part of the process, sealing from the backside. That is the builders job and not the framers, so I just showed this portion in this video.
Never seal the bottom flange to the sill, we seal the backside of the window on the inside of the house to the sill there. This allows water to drain.
@@AwesomeFramers I appreciate the reply!
How often do you roll the tape ?
Do you also tape the top corners or no?
Wait you got Shane to smile ha ha .
How come you cut the initial zip tape instead of just stretching that piece over the corners?
The initial piece was Zip Tape, not Zip Stretch Tape. I think the idea here is to save a bit of money and using less stretch tape.
What would you do here if you didn’t have the stretch tape available for the bottom corners?
There are a few other brands of tape. Tyvek makes one called flex wrap.
Great question Caleb. I wouldn't personally use a non acrylic tape. Here is the method recommended th-cam.com/video/m_mZFT3R6Hs/w-d-xo.html
I would highly recommend using the Stretch Tape. You can buy it on Amazon.
I don't flash windows anymore. Since my neighbor complained. 😂😂😅😅
We bought a house and didn't realize that it wasn't wrapped or flashed until the floor near a window seemed wet. Is there a way to remedy this without removing tearing vinyl siding?
Hi Michelle, I'm sorry to hear about that. To properly repair the siding should be removed. Besides the leak, damaged sheathing or framing may need to b addressed as well.
I had to do this to my house. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Same! We have water coming into our house from the window! I would venture to say we got mold in that wall, too!!!
Why don’t we use pressure treated wood for our sills??
What brand windows do you prefer to use?
Hi Crystal, we use PlyGem
Do you caulk the bottom nail flange?
Great question. No never caulk behind the bottom flange. Water needs a way out. Instead inside we'll caulk the frame to the sill as a back dam.
I always wondered why not tape the bottom of the window. You calk all around. If the window is sealed ,air tite then where would potential water come from.?
good question. The thinking is that not sealing the window to the sill on the outside can allow water to drain, so we only tape the legs and head of the window after setting the window on a flashed sill. Personally I've seen windows leak (my house had no flashing) and the water goes nowhere but just sits on the sill.
Do you caulk behind the bottom flange too?
Nope, the idea is to be able to let water out. Though in reality that's not going to work
fastener? what kind?
I don’t know, I like to do my windows like you do a skylight.
Not just pee and stick on the framing waiting for caulking to fail. Then water gets led inside (but at least the framing is protected?) leaving the insulation and interior sheathing waiting for doom.
All tyvek, blueskin, zip tape, tuck tape etc etc people wrap the framing and not seal the windows….
Please share the 'strechy' corner product name/manufacturer
www.huberwood.com/zip-system/stretch-tape?gclid=CjwKCAiAg8OBBhA8EiwAlKw3kjSs7dfkFO0t7IRqONBcs52TI8qySt3xmqZtvw9k5Pg1xMIIKguEghoCFfcQAvD_BwE
No metal flashing?
You did not fasten the head flange, any reason why?
Excellent question Dan 👍
That's a throwback to my training way back. All our windows had a sticker that said "don't nail through top flange". I can't find anything current that shows this. I was told it was because the sawn headers, usually 6x, could shrink and pull the window.
I doubt that is actually an issue now since we use LVL headers.
@@AwesomeFramers I worked in Gig Harbor 6,7 years ago and the guy's I worked for didn't screw or nail either. They gave me some BS answer that made no sense! I'll go with your answer, thanks!
Are you caulking the back of the bottom flange?
No, if water gets back there you want it to fall out, in fact, they should have put horseshoe shims behind the screws on the bottom flange.
@@generalshrooms That's what I thought, but he said something about always passing energy pressure tests. Perhaps they backer rod and caulked the interior to seal.
The stretch tape pieces should have been first, then the standard tape
That tape on the bottom flange bothers me. I think the bottom should be left open in a few places, to allow water to drain if it somehow gets in there. That's why sloped sills are often incorporated into modern windows.
The window sits on top of that sill flashing, this allows water to drain to the exterior. It is never a good idea to seal that flange to the wall. I think you and I agree 👍
and then the siding guy comes behind you and puts a hole straight through that
Isn't that lower left screw a little close to the corner?. I also didn't see any screws on the head of the window?. Jumped the gun there my friend.
Jumped the gun in what fashion? Lower left screw is fine, we don't fasten at the header because it allows the framing to move.
Come on Shane don't just stand there!
Did I miss something? Was there any adhesive or caullking used?
Edit. They did caulk. I am having windows installed right now
👍👍 Yep sealant on the back of the fins. This tape is unreal, make surely they roll it 👍
@@AwesomeFramers I forgot to finish my previous comment. I am having windows installed now with traditional staple on flashing. This flashing is stapled to the wood 2x4's of the house, then the window is installed on top of this flashing. Doesn't seem right to me but the installers are claiming it is. I am trying to find videos of similar products. This zip system stuff looks way better than what they are doing here.
@@travisk5589 that is a common detail for the framers to staple up strips of Tyvek or tar paper or whatever the WRB is. Then the siders integrate that with the WRB when they install it.
This is one of the many reasons we made the switch to Zip back in 2009
But did you caulk the bottom of the nailing flange?? I know you definitely caulk sides and top with continuous solid bead… also if it’s a no flange window would you caulk the bottom?? I thought it was a no caulk on bottom to allow for drainage, but so many conflicting videos by so called experts…
At 1:18 you damaged the integrity of the zip board by cutting your flex tape on it… Also at 2:30 do not caulk the bottom flange of the window
Pay attention SHANE
And the paper goes over the bottom flashing? That would be like starting your shingles at the top of the roof. This is not correct not even close. Unless of course at Green plywood is supposed to be waterproof?
Check www.zipsystem.com the grean coating is the WRB, no need for housewrap
Not done correctly.....
Corner should been first....
Gussets should go on first
U didn’t even tape the top inside the window
You did what do my window?
Remember the Zip system counts Entirely on the tape been installed properly and in Dry weather conditions , clean Sheathing . I put the odds on that happening at about 20% in todays market. Stick with your Tyveck if you want a good vapor barrier and to increase your odds on having a good job. I put House wrap odds at about 78% to get installed properly .
Tyvek requires more thinking, planning and detailing. Your point actually proved why we don't use it
Kinda sounds like
Mark Wahlberg.
Mark says thank you 😁
Wrong, tape the corners first
Why?
FYI: www.huberwood.com/uploads/documents/technical/W-1.3-Flanged-Window-Flashing-Sill-pan-with-Flashing-Tape-and-Stretch-Tape-Detail-Wall-ZIP-System_2021-09-17-135608_xdud.pdf
Should be nailed hence the name ‘ nailing flange’
That's not logical, not is it accurate.
Pop a piece of clapboard on the sill so it has some pitch, then get you some tyvek flex wrap an seal that hog up.
I hear you, but I have a strong opinion about this. It takes a lot of water for the sloped sill do do any good. At that point we've got major problems. It seems rational to focus on preventing that to begin with.