Never rebuilt an engine and probably never will, but this is all interesting and educational. Thanks for teaching me so much. Your waffle is your experience talking and everyone can learn from other peoples experience.
Hi James. I'm 55, and since TH-cam (and internet general speaking) I've learned more than the rest of my life before in so many different subjects. This is THANKS to you and all people who are ok to share their precious knowledge. So, like others, thank you for sharing, and thank you for waffling. Big thumbs up.
WOW finally someone understanding honing. I race my kids in motocross on small bore 2 strokes and the only cylinder/piston lubrication is from the fuel/oil mixture. I have found that exactly what your saying allows me to extend my piston maintenance to 9 mos (approx 30 races) on a bore with just ring replacement every 3 mos. 45 deg cross hatching lightly between bores allows my lubrication and compression requirements to stay near a fresh bore condition. Thanks Jim great video.
Love the way that you say… this is the point I will do a cut in the video.. And never get around doing it..😂 Natural speech anyway is appreciated over edited professional commentary
Some great info here especially as I'm currently rebuilding my Fazer engine. Had a big end failure so the oil pump came in for some close attention but seems fine. As a new one was nearly £300 didn't want to buy one if I didn't need it. The reast of the engine is in good shape and plenty of oil everywhere so not sure why it failed. Its great to get some good inside knowledge for all the stuff that's not in the manual. Excellent video, looking forward to the next one.
Go thru all your oil ways that u can get at with rifle brushes and solvent U may have lost oil pressure there uf youd picked up some air during hard braking ive noticed thers more bikes with a deeo concerntrated Well were the oil concerntrates and the oil pick up lives this is a mod im consideringdoing to my fzr1000 sump if the exhaust allows for it
I just started watching some of your videos and i must say, absolutely fantastic job on sharing your knowledge. I love working on small engines. I actually have a 05 600 GSXR throat I recently did the valve shims. absolutely incredible your attention to detail and providing accurate information.
Thank you so much for your in depth videos. I know youre hard on yourself for rambling but i appreciate it. There arent many videos on Gsxrs going in depth on engines. I have a 600 but the premise is the same. So, thank you sir.
Please stop being so upset with yourself, it's dragging your viewers down as well. Every little tidbit you mention from your vast experience is interesting. If you start waffling, it's fine, just keep going.
I find this subject on high mileage engines interesting i want to know how this longterm?? Owner rode this bike and what oil he used and how frequently did he change it thanks
Friction causes heat, that heat is what causes wear, check your temps, when riding hard your temps will likely be lower than when you're in slow moving traffic and at idle, especially in summer. So basically how you ride does not matter to an extent, obviously regular maintenance does. The oil make does not really matter much either as it all comes from the same refineries (although I'd still stay away from the very cheapest), just as fuels from petrol stations do. They will likely have different additives, or different levels of certain additives for long shelf life and corrosion inhibitors, but they will all have them.
@@HalfdeadRider hi thanx for your input but i beg to differ to a degree Hi rpm will surely load parts more ! The force of the piston on the cyl bores rises expenentially as revs rise as u r going faster and thd cooling air reduces engine temps but the piston is still passing thru the bore many more times per second than it would at lower revs A race engine will always require a rebuild far more frequently than the street engine were talking about I have to differ re oils as well ive spoken to a motorcycle mech whos mechanic friend said that a certain french oil ( motul) was putting him out of business i tend to agree as ive tried a quality mineral oil and in the same engine the said motul semi synth ( not even the too specd oil) and the difference was honestly night and day i couldnt believe it theres no turning back for me I do believe this particular engine recieved lots of regular luv with really good oil and prob not a lot of track time if any of course todays metallurgy has changed simewhat and coated cylinders r an amazing advancement
My 2 cents worth. 2005 Kawasaki Zx10r with 102k miles. Everything in the engine is original except consumables, spark plugs air filter etc. Change my oil every 3500 or so miles regular cheap oil. Used motorcycle oil prb 2 or 3 times. I believe the longevity comes from mostly just not pinging it off the rev limiter every chance you get. Liter bikes are over built. Use the torque they provide at low and midrange and don't make it scream all the time. That all being said, I plan on doing some work on it sometime soon that's why this series is interesting for me also.
I think of Microns as thousands of a Millimeter and it all makes sense. But I'm pedantic and when I'm working on anything made to metric or imperial specs I stick to the corresponding measurement system.
I think he would too, I don't know if you are from here (UK), but we use a mix of imperial and metric. And you think of a micron as a thousandth of a millimetre because that is what it is.
Yeah never read any specs / clearances in motorcycle manuals calling for microns Bmw claim they work to a thousanth of a millimetre on their s1000rr engines who knows but i suspect the FOne guys do but then theyd have the appropriate measuring gear in the form of lasers measuring pulse widths etc
I love the waffle which then gets rudely interrupted with a "shut up Jim, get to the bloody point" It's like you have two little brains going in separate directions :)
Hi Jim, love you explaining things lol, very informative, would you be able to advise me on what grit AO hone I need for my 4xv yam r1 engine for de glazing the cylinders, can’t wait for you next videos, cheers 👍
Good vid. About a month ago I rebuilt my fzs600 engine I ended up doing the valve adjustment while messing with the timing chain and such. Your idea would have been so much simpler to just pop the camshaft in on its own.
WD40 and white kitchen towels work for me when cleaning engine bores out after honing work. Keep cleaning until you have clean white kitchen towel with just WD40.
hello, where can I buy aluminum carbide honing machines 240 for gsxr 750 k6, please give me a link to the store because I need to do honing of culinders and I don't have them in stores. kind regards
good job! the pistons are bore 72mm? what Is the year of Building of the this engine? 2001, 2003, 2005 ...? you can tell me the interaxis between cylinders? thank you
Hey Jim dont b so f- -ken hard in ya self thats the viewers job lol now im rebuilding my fzr1000 engine with iron bores what grit should b used on the fixed hone please
It's made by Moore and Wright, can't remember the exact model without going to the workshop. Unfortunately I've got beer in my hand so that's not happening 🤣
I bought a unknown 1989 VFR 800i engine as a spare then decided to blue print it on the kitchen table (yes I am married & yes she did moan) to my disappointment it needed nothing. Fitted shells & rings, seats cut new valves & the shimming job from hell (find a man with a surface grinder before you start is my advice) gearbox needed more work selector forks & output bearing. The gaskets are unbelievably expensive 2 head gaskets £130 1 selector fork £40 try figure that out!!??
I want to see the engine bill with a modify engine not stock I want bigger Pistons or bigger cans at least a set of camps and it shows how to do that not stock crap I want more it I want more horsepower that bad boy give me another one like that
Never rebuilt an engine and probably never will, but this is all interesting and educational. Thanks for teaching me so much. Your waffle is your experience talking and everyone can learn from other peoples experience.
Hi James. I'm 55, and since TH-cam (and internet general speaking) I've learned more than the rest of my life before in so many different subjects. This is THANKS to you and all people who are ok to share their precious knowledge. So, like others, thank you for sharing, and thank you for waffling. Big thumbs up.
WOW finally someone understanding honing. I race my kids in motocross on small bore 2 strokes and the only cylinder/piston lubrication is from the fuel/oil mixture. I have found that exactly what your saying allows me to extend my piston maintenance to 9 mos (approx 30 races) on a bore with just ring replacement every 3 mos. 45 deg cross hatching lightly between bores allows my lubrication and compression requirements to stay near a fresh bore condition. Thanks Jim great video.
Great video Jim and great tips along with some great explanations, don’t underestimate how much is taught in the “waffling”…. Thanks again.
Love the way that you say… this is the point I will do a cut in the video..
And never get around doing it..😂
Natural speech anyway is appreciated over edited professional commentary
Jim , please waffle on ... I'm getting an education here. ....
Each video could be an hour for all I care ... Great work!
Some great info here especially as I'm currently rebuilding my Fazer engine. Had a big end failure so the oil pump came in for some close attention but seems fine. As a new one was nearly £300 didn't want to buy one if I didn't need it. The reast of the engine is in good shape and plenty of oil everywhere so not sure why it failed. Its great to get some good inside knowledge for all the stuff that's not in the manual. Excellent video, looking forward to the next one.
Go thru all your oil ways that u can get at with rifle brushes and solvent U may have lost oil pressure there uf youd picked up some air during hard braking ive noticed thers more bikes with a deeo concerntrated Well were the oil concerntrates and the oil pick up lives this is a mod im consideringdoing to my fzr1000 sump if the exhaust allows for it
I would love to have you re fresh the engine in my bike. You are so the guy for this!!
I just started watching some of your videos and i must say, absolutely fantastic job on sharing your knowledge. I love working on small engines. I actually have a 05 600 GSXR throat I recently did the valve shims. absolutely incredible your attention to detail and providing accurate information.
Thanks 👍
Great videos could listen to you "banging on" all day, your skills and knowledge is envious in a great way 👍🏻
Thank you so much for your in depth videos. I know youre hard on yourself for rambling but i appreciate it. There arent many videos on Gsxrs going in depth on engines. I have a 600 but the premise is the same. So, thank you sir.
I appreciate that!
You make really the best videos on enginerebuids! I learn a lot from you, thank you very much for that! Greetings from Budapest
Don't stop the waffling, like most others have said, your waffling has real gems of information.
Please stop being so upset with yourself, it's dragging your viewers down as well. Every little tidbit you mention from your vast experience is interesting. If you start waffling, it's fine, just keep going.
I find this subject on high mileage engines interesting i want to know how this longterm?? Owner rode this bike and what oil he used and how frequently did he change it thanks
Friction causes heat, that heat is what causes wear, check your temps, when riding hard your temps will likely be lower than when you're in slow moving traffic and at idle, especially in summer. So basically how you ride does not matter to an extent, obviously regular maintenance does.
The oil make does not really matter much either as it all comes from the same refineries (although I'd still stay away from the very cheapest), just as fuels from petrol stations do. They will likely have different additives, or different levels of certain additives for long shelf life and corrosion inhibitors, but they will all have them.
@@HalfdeadRider hi thanx for your input but i beg to differ to a degree Hi rpm will surely load parts more ! The force of the piston on the cyl bores rises expenentially as revs rise as u r going faster and thd cooling air reduces engine temps but the piston is still passing thru the bore many more times per second than it would at lower revs A race engine will always require a rebuild far more frequently than the street engine were talking about I have to differ re oils as well ive spoken to a motorcycle mech whos mechanic friend said that a certain french oil ( motul) was putting him out of business i tend to agree as ive tried a quality mineral oil and in the same engine the said motul semi synth ( not even the too specd oil) and the difference was honestly night and day i couldnt believe it theres no turning back for me I do believe this particular engine recieved lots of regular luv with really good oil and prob not a lot of track time if any of course todays metallurgy has changed simewhat and coated cylinders r an amazing advancement
My 2 cents worth. 2005 Kawasaki Zx10r with 102k miles. Everything in the engine is original except consumables, spark plugs air filter etc. Change my oil every 3500 or so miles regular cheap oil. Used motorcycle oil prb 2 or 3 times. I believe the longevity comes from mostly just not pinging it off the rev limiter every chance you get. Liter bikes are over built. Use the torque they provide at low and midrange and don't make it scream all the time. That all being said, I plan on doing some work on it sometime soon that's why this series is interesting for me also.
@@karlvanboxel561 a race engine is engineered within an inch of its life, very different.
Great information, thank you!
Great job 👍🏻👍🏻
Great video. Are the new parts generic, oem or a mixture of both? Would like to see a video of you honing the bore.
"fucking pain in the bum". Retracting arguably the wrong word reminds me of a boss I had who used to saying "fucking heck"
I think of Microns as thousands of a Millimeter and it all makes sense. But I'm pedantic and when I'm working on anything made to metric or imperial specs I stick to the corresponding measurement system.
I think he would too, I don't know if you are from here (UK), but we use a mix of imperial and metric. And you think of a micron as a thousandth of a millimetre because that is what it is.
Yeah never read any specs / clearances in motorcycle manuals calling for microns Bmw claim they work to a thousanth of a millimetre on their s1000rr engines who knows but i suspect the FOne guys do but then theyd have the appropriate measuring gear in the form of lasers measuring pulse widths etc
I love the waffle which then gets rudely interrupted with a "shut up Jim, get to the bloody point" It's like you have two little brains going in separate directions :)
Is it important to make sure that the ring ends are 120° apart or is that a pointless exercise.
A good day can turn brown really easy if you aren't familiar with these internals! Lol
Hi Jim, love you explaining things lol, very informative, would you be able to advise me on what grit AO hone I need for my 4xv yam r1 engine for de glazing the cylinders, can’t wait for you next videos, cheers 👍
Good vid. About a month ago I rebuilt my fzs600 engine I ended up doing the valve adjustment while messing with the timing chain and such. Your idea would have been so much simpler to just pop the camshaft in on its own.
I wonder what oil he was using throughout the lifetime of the bike. It was obviously changed often and was a good oil
You have lot to learn about engines.
WD40 and white kitchen towels work for me when cleaning engine bores out after honing work. Keep cleaning until you have clean white kitchen towel with just WD40.
hello, where can I buy aluminum carbide honing machines 240 for gsxr 750 k6, please give me a link to the store because I need to do honing of culinders and I don't have them in stores. kind regards
Theoretically what would happen if the cylinder wall was damaged? Do they machine it out? Does the clearances therefore change?
Suzuki engine good
good job! the pistons are bore 72mm? what Is the year of Building of the this engine? 2001, 2003, 2005 ...? you can tell me the interaxis between cylinders? thank you
Yes carry on with your waffle please :)
do you have a link to the gasket set?
Hey Jim, where are you finding your parts? I’m in the US and I’m having issues locating NEE OEM parts for my rebuild.
😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮Your Cleaning 🧹🧼 Awesome 👍😎 Looking A Platinum Gold 🥇
Hey Jim dont b so f- -ken hard in ya self thats the viewers job lol now im rebuilding my fzr1000 engine with iron bores what grit should b used on the fixed hone please
I'd go with 180 grit...
Я так понимаю диаметр цилиндра 72 мм , а гугл пишет 70 .
What is the Bore gauge that your using please?
It's made by Moore and Wright, can't remember the exact model without going to the workshop. Unfortunately I've got beer in my hand so that's not happening 🤣
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV thats all good, thank you.
Noo not imperial haha
I bought a unknown 1989 VFR 800i engine as a spare then decided to blue print it on the kitchen table (yes I am married & yes she did moan) to my disappointment it needed nothing. Fitted shells & rings, seats cut new valves & the shimming job from hell (find a man with a surface grinder before you start is my advice) gearbox needed more work selector forks & output bearing. The gaskets are unbelievably expensive 2 head gaskets £130 1 selector fork £40 try figure that out!!??
Where all here for the waffle . Stop apologising. Just amazing how little wear on that engine .......could of got away with just a head rebuilding?
I want to see the engine bill with a modify engine not stock I want bigger Pistons or bigger cans at least a set of camps and it shows how to do that not stock crap I want more it I want more horsepower that bad boy give me another one like that