Reloading Manuals: The Right One Makes a Difference!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 เม.ย. 2024
- This is part one of a two part series.
Reloading has rules, and not following them, "will hurt you". Sometimes very seriously, or worse.
We'll cover the importance of having the right reloading manual when you're new to reloading. As well as what types of information a good reloading manual should have.
I'll show you examples of different manuals that are available, and help you decide what manual is right for you. Surprisingly, that answers isn't the same for everyone.
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Many moons ago I decided I wanted to get into muzzleloading. The FIRST thing I did was buy all the printed literature I could find. After studying everything thoroughly I then selected my first frontstuffer...then my second and so on until I had almost 50 consisting of duplicates of about everything made! back then they were dirt cheap! anyway they were so much fun building a load in the field or on the range I thought to myself "wow I've hunted for the past couple decades and never thought about reloading" I only had a couple family members that reloaded and never saw them on a regular basis so I did exactly the same thing I did with blackpowder guns...I bought every manual on the market at the time before I purchased a press or single component and studied them thoroughly. I'm now an old man with many years of safe muzzleloading, hand loading and reloading experience/knowledge behind me. I always recommend buying and reading manuals before proceeding with the idea of getting into either hobby. I've heard of people buying presses, molds, dies etc. first and then buying a manual and never proceeding with the hobby due to fear of blowing themselves up. In those cases it's best for those people to have a mentor.
@hercules1073 Wow, that's a nice collection of muzzleloaders! Do you still have and use them?
No one in my family reloaded. And none of my friends or there parents did either. So, like you, I read everything I could, reloaded those first rounds and I loved the process. I also cast as well.
When I was a kid, my father belonged to a hunting club and I would go up with him on occasion. At that time, I had no idea about reloading. The odd thing was that none of the guys at that club ever mentioned reloading. I assumed, that ammunition had to be made in a factory with commercial equipment. I had no idea that you could buy equipment and reload on a bench at home. So, I actually came across reloading by accident.
Thank you for taking the time to watch the video and for sharing your story here. I hope you keep tabs on this channel for future videos. I really want to share the shooting sports and reloading with as many as we can. And comments like yours help to do that.
Good info, thanks!
Thank you for watching. I'm glad you thought the information I presented was helpful and worth watching.
Great advice.
I appreciate the compliment. I'm glad my advice was helpful.
Very well explained. I had no friends or family that reloaded but i wanted to. Like you I wanted to learn all this, and be as safe as possible so I bought each loading manual I could.. I was lucky to start with the Lee and Lyman manuals as you showed. I have lots of others as I bought other brands of bullets etc I had to acquire those manufacturers manuals. Great presentation and valuable info I wish i had known back then.
Thank you for watching the video. Your statement about wishing that you had the information I presented when you started was extremly kind and means a lot to me. Thank you for your support.
Well done. I find that I need multiple reloading manuals to compare data, as you may find two or more printed data manuels showing differing start and/or max loads for the same components. And while usually close, the difference is sometimes significant.
Thank you for the compliment about this video. It's great to get feedback so I know what I'm doing right and what I may need to improve. Very appreciated. You're point about using multiple manuals is an important point that I'll be covering in my next video. davecollins6113 has also pointed out how reloading data can be at odds with each other when comparing different published sources. It's an important point to cover. Thank you for watching the video and for your feedback.
great video..reloading is serious business...
Thank you for watching and for your comment. I'm trying my best to make content that's helpful. Feedback allows me to know what I'm doing right or wrong. Thank you!
I have been buying reloading equipment for 4 years now, and getting as many manuals as I can along the way. I have made about 200 rounds so far, and am in need of more bullets. I have 3,500 primer and 3 pounds of powder, but only have about 350 bullets right now. I still have some tools to get also. At this point I have at least 30 different manufacturer's latest reloading manuals, and another 30 by people like Philip B. Sharp, Ken Waters, Elmer Keith, P. O. Ackley, Wooters, Nonte, Whelen, John and Robert Traister, Massoro, Zeglin, Mann, Edward Mantunas, Bryan Litz, etc.. I have 4 more on wildcatting, and two on cartridge conversion. I have learned a great deal from reading these books that I would never had gotten in a life time other wise. I too recommend getting as many reloading books as one can afford. Can never have too many!
See my comment below as far as recommendations of which to get first, second etc...
Having more than one source of reloading information is a good idea. I'll cover that in the next video. If you're looking for bullets, check Midwayusa, Midsouth Shooters, and others, they have sales right now. I see that you took the time to write a very detailed comment below. I don't have the time to read it through right now because of the holiday weekend. But I'll be sure to read it through when I can. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
@@reloadersjournal I have been buying Solid Copper bullets from Lehigh Defense so far. They cost a lot and that is one reason that I only have a small amount right now, other than having to buy a lot of equipment, books, primers, and powder. Once I have all the tools all my money can go towards bullets, powder, and primers. Whoever said that reloading would save one money flat out lied!
@@thetexasr.a.t.2059 Have you considered plated bullets to keep costs down at least for now?
@@reloadersjournal I am building my self-defense and hunting ammo first. After that I will be getting Hornady XTP bullets for plinking (a.k.a. - target practice). They still cost a bit but not nearly what the Lehigh Defense solid copper bullets do. Yet they are as cheap of a bullet that I am willing to put in my gun to try and negate any fouling of the barrel. Anyway, here is a video that shows what my self-defense ammo will do in gel [how many 9mm rounds do you think it would take to equal one of these]: th-cam.com/video/5Bo44nokg88/w-d-xo.html
@@reloadersjournal As far as having more than one manual for load data is a very good idea so long as Richard Lee's is not one of them (that is a manual to glean loading data from), nor should it be an out dated one unless one has older powder and primers [always a good idea to keep the dates about the same]. Also one should never use data from books that do not do their own pressure testing as that data is not verified. Current powder and current primers need current manuals that pressure tested their data. And again Richard Lee did not do pressure testing.
Good video. Today people want everything online. Books necessary for the reloader. Buy as many as you can afford. Buy old manuals for information and techniques, they will be at bargain prices.
Thank you for watching and for your comment. I agee, having multiple sources of reloading data and tips about reloading from multiple sources of published data never hurts.
I'm new but thankfully I'm only interested in 1 ammunition for 1 pustol... 10mm auto for a glock 40.
I'm going to be very cautious and once I've got it down... I'll be set. I'm going to buy 5-10lbs of powder which will last a lifetime for me. And I'm going to eventually be casting the same bullets over and over again (I have the kkm barrel so it can handle cast).
Very quickly ill be making the same exact rounds over and over again with all the variables the same.
I got the glock 40 in 10mm and fell in love. But now I NEED to reload because of the price tag on 10mm
One of the great things about reloading, is being able to bring your cost per round down compared to buying ammunition at retail prices. In general, the more expensive ammunition is off the shelf at retail, the more you "save" by reloading your own. Just keep in mind that even though you're reloading for one caliber, mistakes can still happen. Read your manual, don't let your mind wander or allow outside distractions, and enjoy the process. Thank you for your comment!
Most every different manual will tell you a different technique or tool to use. One will test a certain bullet, one won't, another will show different powders used with the same weight bullet, although they are different styles as well, in a given cartridge. Reading across the data from 5-10 manuals, you will see certain powders are in all of them, with that bullet weight, another may only be in two or three of those manuals. The charge weights will vary from one to the next, look at the brass used, the primer, and the bullet style and design, and, their chamber and barrel are definitely different to yours dimensionally, and the powder lot number is different, it all affects the outcome. Some charges may vary by a lot, some by very little, you need to sort out why the highs and lows are there, and then look at what is a common range across all of them. Could also be a misprint. In other words, you need to learn how to interpret the data, it is really only a general guide, you can evaluate performance of a powder, what bullet weights you can use it with in your gun for versatility. What it is not listed for, is also important, for versatility and performance, bullet weights affect the burn rate. The manuals are usually close, to most guns, there are exceptions though, you may have one, you may not. Such is life with reloading, but, it is not difficult to understand or do, just have to read it thoroughly, and understand each step.
Thank for your comment. The points you make are very important. And new reloaders get confused and don't know what to do when they see data that uses the same bullet and powder yet the starting and max loads are different. The other point that I planned on mentioning is that load data is more than just powder and bullet as you point out. Very valid points. Thank you for taking the time to share your thoughts. And thank you for watching this video.
In the Lee manual, on page 37, it states:
"Bullets seated deeper than normal will reduce case capacity and increase pressure. This is not too critical for large rifle cases, but extremely important for pistol loads. Good load data specifies bullet seating depth or over all cartridge length. Do not seat the bullet to deep.
On page 96, of the Lee manual, under the section of “The Latest Information On Pressure”, it states:
"2) the extreme expansion (XTP and Gold Dot) handgun bullets have a large and deep nose cavity that makes them longer than a regular bullet of the same weight. This requires deeper depth resulting in higher pressure. Seating depth is very critical for handgun ammunition because of the small cases and large bores. ... … The usable volume of … … … the 45 ACP is 1.14cc. Seating bullets 1/16” deeper … .. … reduces the volume … 0.16cc for the 45 ACP. That’s ... ... ... a whopping 14% ... . This large volume reduction has an equally large effect on pressure that is made more critical because the maximum pressure for the 45 ACP is 1/3 of [plus 60,000 pound range as mentioned below. Keep in mind the 45 Colt working pressure is a mere 14,000 psi.] …
On page 157, of Lee's manual under "Minimal Overall Length", It states:
This is critical on most handgun cases. A small reduction in overall length can cause dangerous pressures because of reduced capacity caused by seating the bullet too deep. See details on page 96."
On page 133, of the "Complete Reloading Guide", under "Loads For Handgun Cartridges", in bold font right under the heading it states:
Loads for handguns ... with less case capacity ... when loading ... ... ... mere tenths of a grain of powder can make the difference between a good load and one that is dangerous. Approach the loading of handgun ammunition with these facts in mind."
Plus on pages 88 thru 89, of the Lee manual, under "Signs Of Excessive Pressure" is a list of seven pressure signs and then the manual states the following:
"It must be emphasized that these signs will not manifest themselves in ... low pressure rounds. These are signs of pressure in the plus 60,000 pound range. If you are loading for a gun designed to operate at 15,000 pounds pressure, you will most likely never find a loose primer because the gun would have blown up and spread the primer and gun parts over a wide area."
And on page 158, of the Lee manual, in the section of “How To Read The Load Data”, under “XTP” it states :
“Use these loads for the Hornady XTP, Speer Gold Dot, or Remington Golden Saber bullets.
Now on page 270, of the Lee manual, under the “250 grain XTP” it gives load data with three different seating depths, because the data was taken from three different brand bullets, yet clumped together as if one. So if someone where to take the data developed for the shorter bullet and turn around and used it with the longer bullet they could very well raise pressures far above the 10% reduced starting charge weight. Especially if they use a case with smaller case capacity than that used in the development of the load data, as well as a hotter brand primer than that which was used to develop the data in the first place. Keep in mind that just changing the brand of primer can cause as much as a 2,000 psi rise in pressure alone, which can by itself swallow up the safety margin. Then throw in a case that has a reduced volume than the tested one and on top of all that seating the wrong bullet father in to the case, because it has a deeper hollow point and thicker cooper jacket, than what was used to developed the load data could easily displace the primer into one's own eye - so to speak.
Or another way to put it would be as written in the book "Ammunition, Demystified" (page 17-18):
War Stories #1
"I used loading data from one manufacturer for the equivalent weight bullet made by a different manufacturer. I picked a starting propellent load based on the projectile weight I was loading. I fired two previous shots without much apparent problem. After the third shot, imagine my surprise when I dropped the lock block on my Ruger no.1 and found the whole primer, cup and anvil, missing! I immediately ceased shooting that ammunition and rifle until I got the rifle taken apart, inspected for various and sundry loose metal pieces from the primer, and successfully put them back together. The ammunition was broken down, never to be fired in that particular arrangement again. I know I do not want to do that again! While the bullet weight is an important factor in selecting the powder type and weight for your firearm, the ability of the bullet to engrave by the rifling (think of friction and radial stiffness) also dramatically affects the peak pressure a given powder load will attain. Use only the loading data published by the bullet manufacture! Substitution of loading data for equivalent weight bullets can get you into deep yogurt!"
And I know for a fact that other manuals have stated not to switch brands of bullets even if they are of the same type. I would post them here if I had the time to wade through 30 different manuals to find where they spoke of such, but I am tired just having to have dug up the above and below.
One can head the warnings of reloading or not, but what ever they do they should not teach others to ignore them just because they might so choose.
Again, the Richard Lee loading manual does not do pressure tests themselves, they only take test data from others that do and jumble it all together, of which they lose the test barrel length, case brand, primer type and brand, as well as bullet brand. And some 45 caliber bullets are .451" and some are .452" diameter. These are all important elements, as one should never take data made for one specific brand and type bullet and turn and use it with a different brand or type bullet. This is due to Brinell hardness and bearing surfaces can be different, as well as the shape can be slightly different with longer or shorter lengths, all of which can cause extremely high pressure issues. One should only use data straight from a reputable data source [see paragraph below] that does their own pressure testing which give the test barrel length, case brand, primer type and brand, and most of all the brand of the type bullet used in developing the data. Each one of these elements that are changed is a compromise of which if all are compromised at the same time could very well add up to a recipe for disaster.
First off, I am not implying that Lee plagiarized the data in their manual, just that they jumbled data from different sources together and lost key elements in the doing. And it has always been a given that one should use the starting loads and work their way up. This 10% reduction covers for smaller bore diameters, different lots of powder, different brand/lots of primers, and different brands of cartridge cases. These alone can take up that 10% relatively easy. Especially in pistol cartridges, as a little goes a long way in such small volume chambers. And the .001" difference in diameter with a stiffer jacket can definitely cause pressure issues when it comes to using load data for one brand bullet [i.e. - the smaller one] and using it for another brand bullet e.g. - the larger one].
Lyman, Speer, Nosler, Sierra, Barnes, Swift, Berger, Norma, Lapua, VihtaVuori, Accurate, Western Powder, Hodgdon, or even Hornady reloading manuals are far better suited than Richard Lee's for gleaning load data from, as they all not only do their own testing but they all give the test barrel length, case brand, primer type and brand, as well as the bullets brand and type for each load recipe.
Lyman has most everyone's bullets and many powders too, so it is a good all around manual to get first. Then once one figures a particular bullet they want to use they should get the bullet manufacturer's manual, and try and get the powder manufacturer's manuals that they plan to use as well. Then as one decides to use other manufacturer's bullets and powders they should add these manuals as well. And Lyman also has a Cast Bullet reloading manual for those who wish to cast their own bullets.
There are also other reloading manuals that do not pressure test their loading data and those should not be used for load data but can be used to glean information of the reloading process. So once one has all the powder and bullet manufacture's manuals they could continue to add these other manuals for the knowledge in the first half of them (only).
Yet again Richard Lee's manual throws out one of the carnal safety rules of "never use load data developed for one brand of bullet for another brand of the same style bullet". Keep in mind that it is always better to throw out Richard Lee's manual than any of the safety rules. But with all that said Richard Lee's reloading manual has a wealth of knowledge in the front half that makes the book well worth having. Just do not ignore the Cautions, Warnings, and Nevers there within.
Thanks for taking the time to comment. Your points are all valid. I'm glad you took the time to make everyone aware of details that should be considered.
My goal of this video was a basic introduction to manuals; why you need one, and how to choose one. My hope is that those that are considering, or new to reloading, will buy a manual and learn about all of the details that you mention.
As you point out, there are many variables to consider. In fact, I did run into one issue which I'll mention in the next video. It didn't lead to an accident, but it taught me a lesson about bullet profiles.
As you know, manuals are not customized to every firearm. Even when barrel length is given in a manual, there's still the fact that the chamber may be smaller or larger than my rifle or handgun, which will have an effect on pressure. You also mention differences in lot numbers of powder and primers which also result in an increase or decrease in pressure. The best we can do is use as many recommended components as called for and work up loads slowly. I'll also cover that in the next video. Thanks again for your comments!
@@reloadersjournal And a definite thanks for your videos on reloading manuals. Not many teach to start with manuals. A reloading manual is the first thing one should buy before any other reloading tools. The first half should be read and re-read before ever attempting to reload ammo or even buying any reloading tools. As knowledge is the most important thing toward a safe Handloading journey. Once one has studied and understands all the warnings they should then develop a reloading process that allows them to implement all the safety checks before during and after the reloading process. Then one can intelligently buy the correct equipment the first time around, without being stuck with tools that do not forebode well with the safety checks
Personally, I think the Lee manual is probably the best general loading manual. The load data tends to be a bit more conservative than some, but it has a broader range of information than some of them.
I'm loading primarily for 38 SPL, and the Lyman manual is pretty weak for that specific round.
Lee does have more reloading data in general. I just took a look at the load data for 38 Special in the Lyman 51st edition. You're right, it only has reloading data for 11 loads. Four of them are jacketed HP and the rest are cast lead bullets. Very good point! This will be helpful for those that are looking for a manual and plan on reloading 38 Special. Thanks for your comment.
@@reloadersjournal Another point, is it's not only just 11 loads. The powder selection is WAY more limited. Accurate No.2 doesn't even show up in loads greater than 125 gr. outside of one 150 grain lead bullet.
Accurate No.2 is considered one of the better powders for 38 spl. But, Lyman doesn't think so.
@@SlavicCelery I wasn't aware of that since I don't own a 38 spl. Thank you for making me and others aware of that.
What is the purpose of the hands constantly moving on front of the camera? Very irritating.
Sorry it irritates you. Since I don't show my face, the only way to emote or emphasize is with my hands. What suggestions do you have other than showing my face or just keeping my hands out of frame?