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For every person answering with a yes, is a person answering with a no, and then another person answering with a maybe. Bottom line for beginners, consult a reputable how-to manual and triple check each step of progress before testing your end result

It's very interesting. I load only revolver ammo and only 38 special, +p, and .357 magnum. I started because it's so easy to capture my brass! I also didn't like paying $40 + tax for 25 bullets and having my purchase get registered with the state. I can buy bullets, powder, primers, cases, all online, no tracking, not background check. So, since I mainly load the same small number of recipes, my risks are much less. These calibers are more forgiving because of the huge cartridge volume and because the rim determines the head space, and there is no ramp, no auto feed, no magazine. For a beginner it seems like the perfect way to start, plus, shooting a double action revolver is the best training. I think the greatest danger to a beginner is trying to do to many things at once. Keeping it simple has helped me. One other thing. Beginners, Look at the powder in your cases at least 3 times before you seat the bullet. I even have a checklist sheet specifically for this. I created and fired one squib, and I don't ever want another.

You should have ( At Least ) 6 different manuals , compare ( all ) starting and maximum load data . The reason for 6 manuals is there are mis prints and I have found them from time to time . Remember each set of data comes from a different chamber and barrel and your chamber and barrel is different from all the others . Start at the lowest data you have and work up slowly . Also buy a chronograph ( they start at just a little over $100 ) one of the best reloading tools you can have . That way you will know for sure where you are at ! Been loading for 48+ years , it’s a life long and very rewarding hobby . Follow the rules and ( Don’t ) take short cuts !…… When you rifle shoots a 2 inch group with factory ammo and then shoots a 1/2 inch group with hand loads you will know what I am talking about !……

I bought one of these for 45 colt, was one of the purchase’s I regret thee most, a real piece of crap that doesn’t work can’t get the collet tight enough to grab the bullet, it just slips off every time.

I have reloaded for 3 decades. Whenever I am working with a new bullet/ powder/ cartridge, I ALWAYS check load data from multipule sources ( Lee, Lyman and Hogden).. even using different primers can affect pressure.. and I've never found Max loads to be the most accurate 😕

Finding your channel was really helpful . You're easy to understand. I like that you don't waste words. That's huge. Thanks a bunch you earned a new subscription from me. 😊

You must watch your powder charge if you opt to seat deeper. Always start minimum and work up the ladder toward max. A compressed load could be a real disaster.

I am longtime reloader(50+yrs) and always open to any information relating to this wonderful hobby. I am no ballistitian but shoot alot. I will be retiring in the spring of '25 while i can still enjoy what life i may still have. Ill be 74 in December. Thanks for the info and enjoy. Great video. Subbed.

2 different bullets! A detail that should have been noted.

Much appreciated video. Keep it up, please.

The thing to bear in mind about profiles is the case capacity. A high profile bullet will cause you to have to seat deeper to fit the magazine. You may need to reduce the load for deeper bullets. Conversely, a bullet not seated as deep may require more powder to cycle the slide without stove piping. This is a significant factor in small cases like the 9mm but not any concern in say a 30-06 where seating is determined by the chamber fit for a 1/16 jump gap before engaging the riflings. I would suggest taking the barrel out of the pistol and start with the longest OAL that you can and test fit the chamber. Once you have seated enough to fully insert the round in the chamber, reduce the OAL by 1/16 or recommended OAL whichever is the shortest.

I also ran into the bullet profile issue recently. I was loading 45 ACP for the first time and seated to the COAL in the manual. The cartridge wouldn’t “chamber” in my Wilson case gage. So I thought maybe it wasn’t taper crimped enough. Turns out, I was seated too long and the bullet profile was engaging the rifling instead of the case mouth registering on the chamber. I saw a video about the “plunk” test that described the issue I was having. I went to Berry’s Bullets website and seated to their recommended depth and double checked in my actual barrel chamber. Problem solved. But I can’t say that I’ve seen any reloading manuals mention the “plunk” test. Great video.

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Good information. Following.

Very well shown . I ran into the exact same issue with my 1st reloads. I had bought a bunch of boxes of ACME Bullet co. bullets. Great bullets but they are not listed in published data manuals. I had some very light for caliber up to very heavy caliber. Eventually I got thru it with the great advice from ACME. Great folks that helped out a new guy to reloading.

In the Lee manual, on page 37, it states: "Bullets seated deeper than normal will reduce case capacity and increase pressure. This is not too critical for large rifle cases, but extremely important for pistol loads. Good load data specifies bullet seating depth or over all cartridge length. Do not seat the bullet to deep. On page 96, of the Lee manual, under the section of “The Latest Information On Pressure”, it states: "2) the extreme expansion (XTP and Gold Dot) handgun bullets have a large and deep nose cavity that makes them longer than a regular bullet of the same weight. This requires deeper depth resulting in higher pressure. Seating depth is very critical for handgun ammunition because of the small cases and large bores. ... … The usable volume of … … … the 45 ACP is 1.14cc. Seating bullets 1/16” deeper … .. … reduces the volume … 0.16cc for the 45 ACP. That’s ... ... ... a whopping 14% ... . This large volume reduction has an equally large effect on pressure that is made more critical because the maximum pressure for the 45 ACP is 1/3 of [plus 60,000 pound range as mentioned below. Keep in mind the 45 Colt working pressure is a mere 14,000 psi.] … On page 157, of Lee's manual under "Minimal Overall Length", It states: This is critical on most handgun cases. A small reduction in overall length can cause dangerous pressures because of reduced capacity caused by seating the bullet too deep. See details on page 96." On page 133, of the "Complete Reloading Guide", under "Loads For Handgun Cartridges", in bold font right under the heading it states: Loads for handguns ... with less case capacity ... when loading ... ... ... mere tenths of a grain of powder can make the difference between a good load and one that is dangerous. Approach the loading of handgun ammunition with these facts in mind." Plus on pages 88 thru 89, of the Lee manual, under "Signs Of Excessive Pressure" is a list of seven pressure signs and then the manual states the following: "It must be emphasized that these signs will not manifest themselves in ... low pressure rounds. These are signs of pressure in the plus 60,000 pound range. If you are loading for a gun designed to operate at 15,000 pounds pressure, you will most likely never find a loose primer because the gun would have blown up and spread the primer and gun parts over a wide area." And on page 158, of the Lee manual, in the section of “How To Read The Load Data”, under “XTP” it states : “Use these loads for the Hornady XTP, Speer Gold Dot, or Remington Golden Saber bullets. Now on page 270, of the Lee manual, under the “250 grain XTP” it gives load data with three different seating depths, because the data was taken from three different brand bullets, yet clumped together as if one. So if someone where to take the data developed for the shorter bullet and turn around and used it with the longer bullet they could very well raise pressures far above the 10% reduced starting charge weight. Especially if they use a case with smaller case capacity than that used in the development of the load data, as well as a hotter brand primer than that which was used to develop the data in the first place. Keep in mind that just changing the brand of primer can cause as much as a 2,000 psi rise in pressure alone, which can by itself swallow up the safety margin. Then throw in a case that has a reduced volume than the tested one and on top of all that seating the wrong bullet father in to the case, because it has a deeper hollow point and thicker cooper jacket, than what was used to developed the load data could easily displace the primer into one's own eye - so to speak. Or another way to put it would be as written in the book "Ammunition, Demystified" (page 17-18): War Stories #1 "I used loading data from one manufacturer for the equivalent weight bullet made by a different manufacturer. I picked a starting propellent load based on the projectile weight I was loading. I fired two previous shots without much apparent problem. After the third shot, imagine my surprise when I dropped the lock block on my Ruger no.1 and found the whole primer, cup and anvil, missing! I immediately ceased shooting that ammunition and rifle until I got the rifle taken apart, inspected for various and sundry loose metal pieces from the primer, and successfully put them back together. The ammunition was broken down, never to be fired in that particular arrangement again. I know I do not want to do that again! While the bullet weight is an important factor in selecting the powder type and weight for your firearm, the ability of the bullet to engrave by the rifling (think of friction and radial stiffness) also dramatically affects the peak pressure a given powder load will attain. Use only the loading data published by the bullet manufacture! Substitution of loading data for equivalent weight bullets can get you into deep yogurt!" And I know for a fact that other manuals have stated not to switch brands of bullets even if they are of the same type. I would post them here if I had the time to wade through 70 different manuals to find where they spoke of such, but I am tired just having to have dug up the above and below. One can head the warnings of reloading or not, but what ever they do they should not teach others to ignore them just because they might so choose. Again, the Richard Lee loading manual does not do pressure tests themselves, they only take test data from others that do and jumble it all together, of which they lose the test barrel length, case brand, primer type and brand, as well as bullet brand. And some 45 caliber bullets are .451" and some are .452" diameter. These are all important elements, as one should never take data made for one specific brand and type bullet and turn and use it with a different brand or type bullet. This is due to Brinell hardness and bearing surfaces can be different, as well as the shape can be slightly different with longer or shorter lengths, all of which can cause extremely high pressure issues. One should only use data straight from a reputable data source [see paragraph below] that does their own pressure testing which give the test barrel length, case brand, primer type and brand, and most of all the brand of the type bullet used in developing the data. Each one of these elements that are changed is a compromise of which if all are compromised at the same time could very well add up to a recipe for disaster. First off, I am not implying that Lee plagiarized the data in their manual, just that they jumbled data from different sources together and lost key elements in the doing. And it has always been a given that one should use the starting loads and work their way up. This 10% reduction covers for smaller bore diameters, different lots of powder, different brand/lots of primers, and different brands of cartridge cases. These alone can take up that 10% relatively easy. Especially in pistol cartridges, as a little goes a long way in such small volume chambers. And the .001" difference in diameter with a stiffer jacket can definitely cause pressure issues when it comes to using load data for one brand bullet [i.e. - the smaller one] and using it for another brand bullet e.g. - the larger one]. Lyman, Speer, Nosler, Sierra, Barnes, Swift, Berger, Norma, Lapua, VihtaVuori, Accurate, Western Powder, Hodgdon, or even Hornady reloading manuals are far better suited than Richard Lee's for gleaning load data from, as they all not only do their own testing but they all give the test barrel length, case brand, primer type and brand, as well as the bullets brand and type for each load recipe. Lyman has most everyone's bullets and many powders too, so it is a good all around manual to get first. Then once one figures a particular bullet they want to use they should get the bullet manufacturer's manual, and try and get the powder manufacturer's manuals that they plan to use as well. Then as one decides to use other manufacturer's bullets and powders they should add these manuals as well. And Lyman also has a Cast Bullet reloading manual for those who wish to cast their own bullets. There are also other reloading manuals that do not pressure test their loading data and those should not be used for load data but can be used to glean information of the reloading process. So once one has all the powder and bullet manufacture's manuals they could continue to add these other manuals for the knowledge in the first half of them (only). Yet again Richard Lee's manual throws out one of the carnal safety rules of "never use load data developed for one brand of bullet for another brand of the same style bullet". Keep in mind that it is always better to throw out Richard Lee's manual than any of the safety rules. But with all that said Richard Lee's reloading manual has a wealth of knowledge in the front half that makes the book well worth having. Just do not ignore the Cautions, Warnings, and Nevers there within.

Thanks for sharing!!

What about pan lubing? I don't see any recent videos about it. Are people still doing that?

There is alot of misinformation about handloading on the interwebs. I've been reloading for over 30 years and yes, start with a manual, and join a club if there is one locally.

Depending on what gun I'm shooting, and the bullet, I will shoot bullets as is, or use the Lee push-through sizer, or will lubesize. And, if I'm going for extreme accuracy, I will run the lubesized bullets through my hydraulic swage press. Might I suggest when using Alox, you use the following formula: 45-45-10 which is 45% LLAox 45% Johnson Paste Wax, 10% mineral spirits. The bullets won't be tacky to the touch after drying.

I have a kinetic (hammer style) bullet puller and the Hornady die bullet puller. I pasted on the RCBS one due to the lever hitting the other dies on a turret press.

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The LEE APP Press and a Sizing kit is super easy and fast for large amounts. I started after powdercoating so no need for lubrisizer or lube which creates more smoke and is not allowed at most indoor ranges. After casting just powdercoat then push thru a Lee sizer with the APP . Your then ready to load.

H.V. Stent wrote an article called "A Handlaoding Mystery" which was about different manuals having varying load data for the 30-30. He shows how the load data varies by 7 grains between Speer Handloading Manual #7 (with 40 grains) and #9 (showing 33 grains). And while Speer gave the reply that there are bound to be changes between publications, they gave no explanation as to why. And while Sierra, Hornady, Lyman, and Omark all gave answers basically saying stick with the latest data, but Hodgdon's answer was "Some data sources keep loads purposely on the low side. We do this. Some data sources want to keep 30-30 loads super safe, below 35,000, and some crowd 45,000 or more...". But again Speer in their own manuals varied 7 grains between two of their own publications. [see: Handloader's Digest, eleventh Edition, page 97-99] None the less as powder and primers do change over the years it is always best to use the most current load data available. And even then it still varies from one manufacturer to another, whereby leaving the question still up in the air as to which one should one trust. I have noticed in the latest editions that Hornady publishes a much lower charge weights than the others which actually come close to one another. For example take the 45 Colt, Hornady's charge weights for their 250 grain XTP with Accurate #5 is 7.7 to 10.4 grains, while Lyman has10.0 to 11.0 grains, while both Western Powders and Accurate manuals show 9.9 to 11.0 grains. So Hornady has a minimum of 2.3 grains below the others, and a maximum of .6 grain below the other's maximum. Now if we are not to go below the minimum nor above the maximum charge weights we would be stuck between the two publications at 10.0 and 10.4 grains. As these manuals warn that going below the minimum could cause erratic pressures so should we dare start with Hornady's low ball charge weight? Or should we be scared to dare start at the 9.9 to 10.0 grains stated by the others, which is close to Hornady's maximum charge? Funny how they are all using the exact same bullet and powder with modern pressure testing technology and the data as of this day is all over the place. Yet if Hornady was worried about getting sued they would not drop the starting charge weight so low as to create erratic pressures, nor would the others raise the maximum to such heights above Hornady's maximum. If they are all claiming 14,000 PSI what is up with this? Well different primers and lots thereof, as well as different cases, and lots of powder could explain things to some degree. And then there is the difference in the exact diameter as well as the grooves within the test barrels too. So Hornady used their own cases (which may have a smaller useable case volume than the other cases involved) and Winchester WLP primers, while Accurate used Winchester cases and CCI no. 300 primers, and Western Powders used Remington Cases and Remington 2 1/2 primers, while Lyman chose Winchester cases and Winchester WLP primers. So none of these manuals used the same exact components in their texting which could easily account for the differences in recommended charge weights. Just the pressures between different primers can be 2,000 PSI alone, and the useable case volumes between manufacturers could easily explain the majority of the discrepancy themselves. It is well known that Federal makes the hottest primers so keep those extra 2,000 PSI in mind if you choose to go that route. And, while this question will always seem to linger (even though I just explained why here above) as to why are there such differences between one manufacturer's load data compared to other's, simply remember to always start at the beginning charge weights and work up. But as to which one you will believe is best is up to your discernment alone! Plus when making up their mind which data is best perhaps one would do well to see which manual uses the brass they plain on using and stick with their primer choose to boot. Personally, I went with Western Powders, Accurate, and Lyman's data. I used Starline brass and CCI no. 300 primers. Yet my advise is y'all do you as I don't want to get sued.

Great video. I just got one of these and the instructions leave a lot to be desired. This did a great job of showing exactly how this bullet puller works.

It's tough to use reloading manuals for load data when reloading for obsolete cartridges.

Another thought, you must keep up with reloading manuals. Because the reload data is meant for powders manufacturer for that year. Buy in bulk if you can. I have been reloading for over 50 years. I still have all my fingers, two working eyeballs. And hearing. .

Lee and Speer reloading manuals are excellent, there are others, like Lyman, good for shotguns, and cast bullet loads

The lack of variability in brass and primers from manufacturers shows obvious bias towards pushing products consistently from various brands. There's a good bit of stuff you have to work up and test yourself, and then theres crazy stuff like the 255subx 7.62x39 from hornady that still doesn't even have load data in hornady's own reloading manual or online app. Plenty of missing powders that 1 manufacturer will show is fine and the other doesn't include. These companies really leave you on your own.

That is an extremely tight crimp...

I don't see the collet size for a 9mm round...

Will this work in a Dillon XL650 Progressive Reloader?

Plenty of good reloading data online just not on forums. The bullet mfg and powder mfg generally make data available.

More info is best if I'm loading something up I look at my 6 or 7 manuals and compare what different brands recommend and start there some time some manuals will be way off from the others the more knowledge you the safer you are

Great information,especially for newbies like me .I'm one not interested in building a library for reloading,so think it's good that you got to the heart of this important matter. I have the Lyman 50th edition ordered on the way and may look into the Lee one if also essential.Although manuals are vital,they are expensive so I may check deals offered on the Lee manual if I find a need for it. Besides,as a brand new reloading candidate,I wish not to confuse myself with an overdrive of reload info. Someone posted a video stating Lyman's 50th edition is as good as the 51st,which they claim just has more advertising.Thanks for your truly valuable information!

What is the purpose of the hands constantly moving on front of the camera? Very irritating.

I have been buying reloading equipment for 4 years now, and getting as many manuals as I can along the way. I have made about 200 rounds so far, and am in need of more bullets. I have 3,500 primer and 3 pounds of powder, but only have about 350 bullets right now. I still have some tools to get also. At this point I have at least 30 different manufacturer's latest reloading manuals, and another 30 by people like Philip B. Sharp, Ken Waters, Elmer Keith, P. O. Ackley, Wooters, Nonte, Whelen, John and Robert Traister, Massoro, Zeglin, Mann, Edward Mantunas, Bryan Litz, etc.. I have 4 more on wildcatting, and two on cartridge conversion. I have learned a great deal from reading these books that I would never had gotten in a life time other wise. I too recommend getting as many reloading books as one can afford. Can never have too many! See my comment below as far as recommendations of which to get first, second etc...

In the Lee manual, on page 37, it states: "Bullets seated deeper than normal will reduce case capacity and increase pressure. This is not too critical for large rifle cases, but extremely important for pistol loads. Good load data specifies bullet seating depth or over all cartridge length. Do not seat the bullet to deep. On page 96, of the Lee manual, under the section of “The Latest Information On Pressure”, it states: "2) the extreme expansion (XTP and Gold Dot) handgun bullets have a large and deep nose cavity that makes them longer than a regular bullet of the same weight. This requires deeper depth resulting in higher pressure. Seating depth is very critical for handgun ammunition because of the small cases and large bores. ... … The usable volume of … … … the 45 ACP is 1.14cc. Seating bullets 1/16” deeper … .. … reduces the volume … 0.16cc for the 45 ACP. That’s ... ... ... a whopping 14% ... . This large volume reduction has an equally large effect on pressure that is made more critical because the maximum pressure for the 45 ACP is 1/3 of [plus 60,000 pound range as mentioned below. Keep in mind the 45 Colt working pressure is a mere 14,000 psi.] … On page 157, of Lee's manual under "Minimal Overall Length", It states: This is critical on most handgun cases. A small reduction in overall length can cause dangerous pressures because of reduced capacity caused by seating the bullet too deep. See details on page 96." On page 133, of the "Complete Reloading Guide", under "Loads For Handgun Cartridges", in bold font right under the heading it states: Loads for handguns ... with less case capacity ... when loading ... ... ... mere tenths of a grain of powder can make the difference between a good load and one that is dangerous. Approach the loading of handgun ammunition with these facts in mind." Plus on pages 88 thru 89, of the Lee manual, under "Signs Of Excessive Pressure" is a list of seven pressure signs and then the manual states the following: "It must be emphasized that these signs will not manifest themselves in ... low pressure rounds. These are signs of pressure in the plus 60,000 pound range. If you are loading for a gun designed to operate at 15,000 pounds pressure, you will most likely never find a loose primer because the gun would have blown up and spread the primer and gun parts over a wide area." And on page 158, of the Lee manual, in the section of “How To Read The Load Data”, under “XTP” it states : “Use these loads for the Hornady XTP, Speer Gold Dot, or Remington Golden Saber bullets. Now on page 270, of the Lee manual, under the “250 grain XTP” it gives load data with three different seating depths, because the data was taken from three different brand bullets, yet clumped together as if one. So if someone where to take the data developed for the shorter bullet and turn around and used it with the longer bullet they could very well raise pressures far above the 10% reduced starting charge weight. Especially if they use a case with smaller case capacity than that used in the development of the load data, as well as a hotter brand primer than that which was used to develop the data in the first place. Keep in mind that just changing the brand of primer can cause as much as a 2,000 psi rise in pressure alone, which can by itself swallow up the safety margin. Then throw in a case that has a reduced volume than the tested one and on top of all that seating the wrong bullet father in to the case, because it has a deeper hollow point and thicker cooper jacket, than what was used to developed the load data could easily displace the primer into one's own eye - so to speak. Or another way to put it would be as written in the book "Ammunition, Demystified" (page 17-18): War Stories #1 "I used loading data from one manufacturer for the equivalent weight bullet made by a different manufacturer. I picked a starting propellent load based on the projectile weight I was loading. I fired two previous shots without much apparent problem. After the third shot, imagine my surprise when I dropped the lock block on my Ruger no.1 and found the whole primer, cup and anvil, missing! I immediately ceased shooting that ammunition and rifle until I got the rifle taken apart, inspected for various and sundry loose metal pieces from the primer, and successfully put them back together. The ammunition was broken down, never to be fired in that particular arrangement again. I know I do not want to do that again! While the bullet weight is an important factor in selecting the powder type and weight for your firearm, the ability of the bullet to engrave by the rifling (think of friction and radial stiffness) also dramatically affects the peak pressure a given powder load will attain. Use only the loading data published by the bullet manufacture! Substitution of loading data for equivalent weight bullets can get you into deep yogurt!" And I know for a fact that other manuals have stated not to switch brands of bullets even if they are of the same type. I would post them here if I had the time to wade through 30 different manuals to find where they spoke of such, but I am tired just having to have dug up the above and below. One can head the warnings of reloading or not, but what ever they do they should not teach others to ignore them just because they might so choose. Again, the Richard Lee loading manual does not do pressure tests themselves, they only take test data from others that do and jumble it all together, of which they lose the test barrel length, case brand, primer type and brand, as well as bullet brand. And some 45 caliber bullets are .451" and some are .452" diameter. These are all important elements, as one should never take data made for one specific brand and type bullet and turn and use it with a different brand or type bullet. This is due to Brinell hardness and bearing surfaces can be different, as well as the shape can be slightly different with longer or shorter lengths, all of which can cause extremely high pressure issues. One should only use data straight from a reputable data source [see paragraph below] that does their own pressure testing which give the test barrel length, case brand, primer type and brand, and most of all the brand of the type bullet used in developing the data. Each one of these elements that are changed is a compromise of which if all are compromised at the same time could very well add up to a recipe for disaster. First off, I am not implying that Lee plagiarized the data in their manual, just that they jumbled data from different sources together and lost key elements in the doing. And it has always been a given that one should use the starting loads and work their way up. This 10% reduction covers for smaller bore diameters, different lots of powder, different brand/lots of primers, and different brands of cartridge cases. These alone can take up that 10% relatively easy. Especially in pistol cartridges, as a little goes a long way in such small volume chambers. And the .001" difference in diameter with a stiffer jacket can definitely cause pressure issues when it comes to using load data for one brand bullet [i.e. - the smaller one] and using it for another brand bullet e.g. - the larger one]. Lyman, Speer, Nosler, Sierra, Barnes, Swift, Berger, Norma, Lapua, VihtaVuori, Accurate, Western Powder, Hodgdon, or even Hornady reloading manuals are far better suited than Richard Lee's for gleaning load data from, as they all not only do their own testing but they all give the test barrel length, case brand, primer type and brand, as well as the bullets brand and type for each load recipe. Lyman has most everyone's bullets and many powders too, so it is a good all around manual to get first. Then once one figures a particular bullet they want to use they should get the bullet manufacturer's manual, and try and get the powder manufacturer's manuals that they plan to use as well. Then as one decides to use other manufacturer's bullets and powders they should add these manuals as well. And Lyman also has a Cast Bullet reloading manual for those who wish to cast their own bullets. There are also other reloading manuals that do not pressure test their loading data and those should not be used for load data but can be used to glean information of the reloading process. So once one has all the powder and bullet manufacture's manuals they could continue to add these other manuals for the knowledge in the first half of them (only). Yet again Richard Lee's manual throws out one of the carnal safety rules of "never use load data developed for one brand of bullet for another brand of the same style bullet". Keep in mind that it is always better to throw out Richard Lee's manual than any of the safety rules. But with all that said Richard Lee's reloading manual has a wealth of knowledge in the front half that makes the book well worth having. Just do not ignore the Cautions, Warnings, and Nevers there within.

Personally, I think the Lee manual is probably the best general loading manual. The load data tends to be a bit more conservative than some, but it has a broader range of information than some of them. I'm loading primarily for 38 SPL, and the Lyman manual is pretty weak for that specific round.

I'm new but thankfully I'm only interested in 1 ammunition for 1 pustol... 10mm auto for a glock 40. I'm going to be very cautious and once I've got it down... I'll be set. I'm going to buy 5-10lbs of powder which will last a lifetime for me. And I'm going to eventually be casting the same bullets over and over again (I have the kkm barrel so it can handle cast). Very quickly ill be making the same exact rounds over and over again with all the variables the same. I got the glock 40 in 10mm and fell in love. But now I NEED to reload because of the price tag on 10mm

great video..reloading is serious business...

Good video. Today people want everything online. Books necessary for the reloader. Buy as many as you can afford. Buy old manuals for information and techniques, they will be at bargain prices.

Most every different manual will tell you a different technique or tool to use. One will test a certain bullet, one won't, another will show different powders used with the same weight bullet, although they are different styles as well, in a given cartridge. Reading across the data from 5-10 manuals, you will see certain powders are in all of them, with that bullet weight, another may only be in two or three of those manuals. The charge weights will vary from one to the next, look at the brass used, the primer, and the bullet style and design, and, their chamber and barrel are definitely different to yours dimensionally, and the powder lot number is different, it all affects the outcome. Some charges may vary by a lot, some by very little, you need to sort out why the highs and lows are there, and then look at what is a common range across all of them. Could also be a misprint. In other words, you need to learn how to interpret the data, it is really only a general guide, you can evaluate performance of a powder, what bullet weights you can use it with in your gun for versatility. What it is not listed for, is also important, for versatility and performance, bullet weights affect the burn rate. The manuals are usually close, to most guns, there are exceptions though, you may have one, you may not. Such is life with reloading, but, it is not difficult to understand or do, just have to read it thoroughly, and understand each step.

Well done. I find that I need multiple reloading manuals to compare data, as you may find two or more printed data manuels showing differing start and/or max loads for the same components. And while usually close, the difference is sometimes significant.

Good info, thanks!

Great advice.