I watched this a couple times, as I was taking my carburetor off. The video quality is excellent, and I got mine torn down to the very last part, and cleaned everything up. Mine was dirty and crusty, and I used all the tips you recommended, right down to the stranded wire. No one was more surprised than I when I pulled the cord and our 4550 started right up! This unit had not run since last year. I have never worked on an engine, before. My hubby fixed supper for me, he was so proud. Bottom line; anyone can fix a carburetor after watching this video! I did drag out every tool we owned. Thank you for a wonderful video!
I watched 4 or 5 different videos before finding yours. I'd just about given up. I had the generator apart every time I watched a different DIY. You're the only guy who told me to clean the jet inside the carburetor. THANK YOU! I thought that might come out, but I was worried I'd ruin timing or flow... again, THANK YOU! The generator started sooner than it ever had before, too. Like half a pull, rather than 3 pulls.
We have used the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
Great video. I followed your instructions for removing and cleaning the carb and my Champion generator fired right up on the first try. I then worked on my 2700PSI Honda 5.0hp pressure washer that had been stored for approx. 20 yrs, with gas in it. Carb was a little different but I followed the same basic steps and it turns out that this too is alive! Again, great video. Thanks!
Awesome video, got my Champion running again on gas (worked on LP) using your video to clean the carburetor jets just in time to be prepared for Laura here in Texas, Thanks!
Awesome video👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽 my generador is a Dewalt 7000 I used for two or three times three years ago and I never used it again, now after three years I try to used it won’t start ! Is been sitting on my garage all this time , first thing I drained the gasoline put fresh gas and won’t start! Next I check the gas valve and works and also make sure goes all the way to the carburetor. Try again and nothing! After I watch this video I took the carburetor a part and I found out that the plug that holds the jet on place was clog completely clogged !! I didn’t use a wire but I use I toot pick clean it out very good put it back together and start it right away!!!
Excellent video.. Thank you for posting this. I was able to fix my 10,000 watts Firman generator in a matter of an hour and everything is working perfectly. Cheers
thanks, your video help me get my generator to start, my carburetor was clogged up with old fuel and crap after sitting for two years. after watching your very helpful video i opened my carb up (i have never opened up any kind of carb before watching your video) and seen it was clogged cleaned the tiny holes with a tiny wire like you did and now it runs like brand new, thanks
Great video guys, this really helped me. Could not get my champion generator running for today’s storm, watched your video and it’s running perfectly now. Thanks again hope all is well with you we should be getting 8 to 10 inches of snow today.
I got tired of this happening too. I converted to propane by drilling a hole in the air breather, screwing in a 1/4 inch barbed brass fitting. Hooked my propane bottle with 1/4 in hose which had a regulator and a petcock valve to the brass fitting in the air filter box. Run your choke setting wide open for adequate air mixture and adjust your RPMs with the amount of propane you give it at the bottle. Gasoline only lasts 6 months in the tank then gums up the carb like in this video, LP never goes bad. You won't have to change oil in the generator because there is no carbon burned with the clean LP. Engine runs cleaner, smoother, cooler and lasts longer. The only caveat here is there is no LP cutoff if the generator dies. The LP will keep pumping out and can be a fire hazard if unattended. You can buy an electronic cutoff valve for the propane bottle that plugs right into the generator. If it quits, it shuts off the propane at the valve. Great video here guys, many thanks.
I know this is an old post but would like more detail on converting my generator to propane or natural gas. Every year I have to clean the fuel intake system. Thanks
Got mine workin after cleaning that little screw hole that holds the jet inside the carb. Had it apart twice. First cleaned the big jet and put it together without cleaning that little screw. Watched this vid. Took it apart and cleaned that hole in that screw and generator fired right up. Had to adjust the throttle to keep it from surging but works fine now. Thanks
@5:00 That "... some sort of electrical "sensor" on the bottom." is actually a fuel shut-off solenoid with broken plastic in evidence. It immediately shuts the fuel off to keep the EPA ever-so-happy over unburned fuel vapors escaping during shutdown. That's the same EPA that made the manufacturers put the breather vent from the valve cover to the carb so that the incoming carb air is contaminated with various oil and combustion products. The """Jet""" you removed is actually an Emulsion Tube and it's retainer's passageway was not expanded or "reamed" since no metal was removed by your copper wire strands. That hole was just cleaned. Fuel in the oil is 99% a problem with carb float needle valve allowing tank fuel to bypass the float valve shut off and go to the crankcase It doesn't matter how much oil is in the container - it's the actual level in the crankcase that matters. Oil is 'FULL' when the level is up to the top of the fill plug hole and just starting to run out which means you are running with minimum oil right out of the gate. Too low oil level means that the low oil sensor will shut down the genset with no restart until the oil is serviced. What you are relying on is a conditioning from cars and trucks to use the DIPSTICK to check oil level - The center checkered part of the gen-set's fill plug is **not** a dipstick but just a way to pull oil out of the crankcase to check it's color / cleanliness. Does that gen-set have an on demand 'Run / Idle' circuit? It shouldn't be running @ 3600 RPM without an electrical load on it - rather at a reduced, idle RPM. Nice generator there!
Thanks for sharing! Great shirt, I'm making a custom JD 240 into a Ford JD 325 as a hydraulics actuated implements project to compliment my Ford YT16 electronic actuated implements project garden tractor.
The sensor is a fuel cuttoff valve and anti backfire... I think has another name also. Prevents fuel getting into the already hot engine head and backfiring.
I have a Champion like yours (but a bit less powerful). Was at the cabin this weekend and tried to get it started (probably for the 10th time this summer) but still no luck. It only runs if I keep spraying carb cleaner in it but, as soon as I stop spraying, it stops. Came back home today and watched your video... Now I can't wait to go back to the cabin and try to properly clean the carb following your instructions. Hope it will work, fingers crossed. Also, how did you manage to connect a battery to it so you don't have to pull the cord to start it? Can you do a follow-up video on this?
Good luck with repairing your generator! Some models, like Paul's, came with electric start and a battery. Many smaller models only have the pull start.
I think technically, the "sensor" triggers the magneto from being grounded or not... at least in my Champion generator design. If the sensor oil level is low, the magneto is grounded so the engine dies or won't start. Technically, this can be bypassed and not even used... though not a good idea if you're running your generator regularly and/or often. Though I'm used to checking oil always before use and inspecting around the engine also for leaks.
@@jafinch78 hey bud the sensor isnt a sensor it's a tiny valve in the carb bowl it opens when key is put in start position and closes when key is turned off, and is actually a normally closed solenoid valve . Its purpose is stop fuel flow after the engine is turned to prevent the from backfiring or dieseling after its shut off. Sometimes the coil which pulls in the solenoid will fail and wont allow fuel into the bowl, just remove the switch from bottom of carb and with a pair of pliers pull the spring loaded pin out and break it off and put back on carb...
@@timothysims3500 Right if the fuel shutoff solenoid. Great call. I typically like keeping the fuel shutoff or anti-backfire solenoid whole, unless needing to operate the engine soon, with the riders and tractors so if I forget to throttle down... I don't have to deal with the backfire. I know on mine, the only sensor is the oil level sensor that I bypassed on my Champion 4000W to get er going and troubleshoot the not starting condition. I also had to clean the pull start levers since weren't moving out and in really smooth. One of those risky almost seems like the engine was seized... though was hoping and praying was just the pull cord stuck. Otherwise, the cord and oil level sensor issues, mine wound up having way loose valve lash is all engine wise... or at least seemed when I worked on last.
@@timothysims3500 I've got the 4000W model that isn't the key start. Though thanks for the advice and affirmation. Good call. Have had to do on the riders and garden tractors that have the anti-backfire solenoid a few times. Can hook up a 9V battery and test with too... though is easier if no other shut-off switches are bad or off position to just listed when turning over in a no starter powering condition.
Glad you mentioned the wire trick. If you have the carb in hand run every passage - works like magic. Needle tip is usually viton rubber. I use Stabil and it helps for the snow blower. Really I need to use pure gas but who wants to chase that down. Good fix enjoyed it. _ _Dan_
A little trick when using wire strands as reamers... tap them individually with a hammer to flatten them out...that creates a gentle scraping edge. Most of the yellowish film is ethanol residue and brake clean and a small sponge work great on the bottom of the float bowl. Don't get brake clean on the rubber tip of the needle valve as it will swell and not seat properly. The perforated tube is generally referred to as an emulsion tube. Also there is probably a press in jet on the top as well as two others that run horizontal on either side of the butterflies and ending in the throat (very tiny exit ports so prone to clogging). Those will be on the inside side of the throat and should be blown out from the inside out. You'll need a straw nozzle on your brake clean to properly clear the little dude's from the inside out. Best of luck.
Hey! You misidentified some parts in this video. The long brass tube is not the jet. It is what is known as the emulsion tube. The actual jet is the device that i think you called the jet retainer. It it the part that you used the wire on to clean. You also called the device on the bottom of the carb a sensor. It is not a sensor. It is actually a solenoid that shuts off gas flow to the jet when the low oil sensor activates. Other than that it is an excellent video.
You guys are a hoot. Entertaining to say the least. Eric you need to keep a closer eye on Paul and administer that tough love when its warranted. Paul, when you check the oil level of ANY equipment with a screw in dipstick, after you wipe it clean, insert it back in without screwing it in (bottom thread of dipstick contacting top thread of crankcase) otherwise you'll read high by about 3/4" which is alot. Reality is that your actual level is too low...Eric you know better...but heck it's not your unit. Lol. Keep on filming guys!
Fuel in the crankcase is very dangerous and is basically a gasoline fire waiting to happen...fuel in the crankcase is usually caused by a carb float valve that is stuck in the down (open) position. It is the job of the float and needle valve to keep the fuel level in the bowl in check, as the carb bowl fills the float rises which is in essence riding on a see-saw with the needle valve and as it rises it forced the needle valve downward finally reaching the needle valve seat which stops any more fuel from entering into the bowl, if stuck open fuel will continue to enter the carb bowl then up into the upper section of the carb where it overflows into the carb tunnel and eventually begins filling the cylinder. The solenoid on bottom with the 2 wires stops fuel flow when the engine is shut off this preventing backfires and prevents the engine from continuing to run after shutting the engine off...it in a nutshell is a "normally closed" switch that is connected to the battery via the key ignition and opens when key is turned to the on position and closes when key is turned off
@@timothysims3500 I was asking in order to get others to think and to get the most accurate answer which you explained it great . I’m not the best at spelling or explaining especially on this phone. I’m old and I have big fingers and I’m always hitting the wrong letters. I’ve always been a do it myself person in everything. I’m disabled, and in constant pain some better then others . But life is good so what I’m trying to say is you don’t know what people are going through so be kind be polite it will make things better for everyone there is too much meanness to go around. So put a smile on and spread kindness and try and left up and not tear down be positive and not negative for life is a gift given each day by Gods own hand be blessed everyone and walk in peace !
Pull the fuel line off at the carburetor inlet and drain it into a container... or if youre feeling lazy simply burn it off by running the engine.... that way you don't have to store it. Lol
That's not a sensor on the fuel bowl it's a "cut off" valve...its a normally closed valve that opens when the key is turned on and shuts when the key is turned off....its designed to stop fuel from entering the carb once the engine is turned off so that it wont backfire or continue sputtering and coughing until it finally dies. If it malfunctions, just remove it from the bottom of the bowl, pull the tiny spring loaded pin out of it and break it off then put back on carb
Thats not the crankcase breather tube. It is only the oil drain. Crankcase breather runs into the air filter assembly. The tube you are discussing is called an emulsion tube, and the plug you are referring to is the main jet. The sensor is the fuel cutoff solenoid. It frequently sticks open and let fuel drain from the tank into the carb and then the engine.
The 2 wires leading to the carburetor are for the tiny fuel cutoff valve inside the carburetor. Known as "normally closed? Valve, when the key is turned to the start position the switch is energized and opens to allow fuel to flow and when the key is turned off it shuts off the flow...it is designed to stop backfiring or vapor running to where it backfires or continues running after the mower is shut off
the carb can leak fuel in the cylinder, eventually flooding the cylinder and a hydro-lock fatality when first started, but in this case it all went slowly into the crankcase: so never forget to close your fuel valve, and stick to pull-starters :-)
Just a little twist of the carb and the rod pops right out. Needle nose pliers for the spring. Reverse to re-install. 4 months later, I'm sure you've figured it out by now
Yea its easiest to put those on the carb before you put the carb on the mounting studs...if the tiny coil spring gives u a hard time run a length of thread through the hole that the spring rests in and tie it to the part of the spring that goes in the hole then pull the spring to the eye with the thread...that tiny spring counteracts the action of the governor and keeps engine from undulating or revving up and down while its running
I have a Briggs and Stratton Storm Responder we turned on once but never used. I paid over $1000 for it. I put up on Ebay and two years later have been offered less than $200 I put up on another ap and several people want if for $300 but when I went to turn on it starts with starting fluid but wont run. I have paid over $100 now for fixes I changed oil, air filter and gas and used the gas storage chemicals,I have drained the gas and oil and opened the air filter but it still dies. At this point I have contacted Briggs and Straton for several years by email calls etc. Nothing! It sits in basement just making me hate it. Can anyone tell me how to fix it as I want to give it away but nobody wants a dead generator. I guess that's why in two years I never got a bid. I am an old lady who cant just throw away money and really need a little help. I have watched hours of video and thought it was the oil sensor but after searching for hours found out that no oil sensor is on this model. I wanted to just pull the yellow wire and be done. Please have mercy on me I need it out of my house. By the way its heavy. Thanks
If I had to guess It was most likely an oil overfill sensor kicking the generator off. Changing the oil I think did the trick more than cleaning out that carburetor.
I know it always makes us feel manly, but that carburetor in 2024 is $20. At the time this video was posted it was $12. Take off the old one throw it away and bolt on a new one and you'll be done in minutes
I have a Briggs and Stratton Storm Responder we turned on once but never used. I paid over $1000 for it. I put up on Ebay and two years later have been offered less than $200 I put up on another ap and several people want if for $300 but when I went to turn on it starts with starting fluid but wont run. I have paid over $100 now for fixes I changed oil, air filter and gas and used the gas storage chemicals,I have drained the gas and oil and opened the air filter but it still dies. At this point I have contacted Briggs and Straton for several years by email calls etc. Nothing! It sits in basement just making me hate it. Can anyone tell me how to fix it as I want to give it away but nobody wants a dead generator. I guess that's why in two years I never got a bid. I am an old lady who cant just throw away money and really need a little help. I have watched hours of video and thought it was the oil sensor but after searching for hours found out that no oil sensor is on this model. I wanted to just pull the yellow wire and be done. Please have mercy on me I need it out of my house. By the way its heavy. Thanks
I watched this a couple times, as I was taking my carburetor off. The video quality is excellent, and I got mine torn down to the very last part, and cleaned everything up. Mine was dirty and crusty, and I used all the tips you recommended, right down to the stranded wire. No one was more surprised than I when I pulled the cord and our 4550 started right up! This unit had not run since last year. I have never worked on an engine, before. My hubby fixed supper for me, he was so proud. Bottom line; anyone can fix a carburetor after watching this video! I did drag out every tool we owned. Thank you for a wonderful video!
I watched 4 or 5 different videos before finding yours. I'd just about given up. I had the generator apart every time I watched a different DIY. You're the only guy who told me to clean the jet inside the carburetor. THANK YOU! I thought that might come out, but I was worried I'd ruin timing or flow... again, THANK YOU! The generator started sooner than it ever had before, too. Like half a pull, rather than 3 pulls.
Glad to hear this video helped you! Persistence pays off. :)
We have used the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
Great video. I followed your instructions for removing and cleaning the carb and my Champion generator fired right up on the first try. I then worked on my 2700PSI Honda 5.0hp pressure washer that had been stored for approx. 20 yrs, with gas in it. Carb was a little different but I followed the same basic steps and it turns out that this too is alive! Again, great video. Thanks!
Best video that I've seen on dealing with generator fuel delivery issues. Thank You
I'm glad you found the video to be helpful!
Nothing like getting a generator running for coach Andy Reid:) Thanks for sharing.
Just had the same issue today. Followed your video and had it purring like a kitten in about 45 minutes. Thanks! Keep up the good work!
Great to hear! Thanks for watching!
Awesome video, got my Champion running again on gas (worked on LP) using your video to clean the carburetor jets just in time to be prepared for Laura here in Texas, Thanks!
Great to hear! Stay safe!
Awesome video👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽 my generador is a Dewalt 7000 I used for two or three times three years ago and I never used it again, now after three years I try to used it won’t start ! Is been sitting on my garage all this time , first thing I drained the gasoline put fresh gas and won’t start! Next I check the gas valve and works and also make sure goes all the way to the carburetor. Try again and nothing! After I watch this video I took the carburetor a part and I found out that the plug that holds the jet on place was clog completely clogged !! I didn’t use a wire but I use I toot pick clean it out very good put it back together and start it right away!!!
Excellent video.. Thank you for posting this. I was able to fix my 10,000 watts Firman generator in a matter of an hour and everything is working perfectly. Cheers
Glad to hear my video helped you! Cheers!
thanks, your video help me get my generator to start, my carburetor was clogged up with old fuel and crap after sitting for two years. after watching your very helpful video i opened my carb up (i have never opened up any kind of carb before watching your video)
and seen it was clogged cleaned the tiny holes with a tiny wire like you did and now it runs like brand new, thanks
I've cleaned out carburetors before but since I hadn't done this particular type, this really helped me out. Thanks for posting.
@@kylencorey5898 I think this video is about fixing small engine repairs. Big trust issues might be discussed in another video.
Thank you so much! I thought i had cleaned everything but didn't see the jet. Thank heaven for people like you!!
Hi
Nice job guys. It seems like Champions are notorious for this.
Great video guys, this really helped me. Could not get my champion generator running for today’s storm, watched your video and it’s running perfectly now. Thanks again hope all is well with you we should be getting 8 to 10 inches of snow today.
Glad to hear your generator is running again! Stay safe with all that snow. Please subscribe if you would like to see more helpful videos.
Great video! I will follow your instructions. Thanks
Thanks man. This video is just what I needed to get my generator started!
Just found this and it fixed my problem! Thanks.
I got tired of this happening too. I converted to propane by drilling a hole in the air breather, screwing in a 1/4 inch barbed brass fitting. Hooked my propane bottle with 1/4 in hose which had a regulator and a petcock valve to the brass fitting in the air filter box. Run your choke setting wide open for adequate air mixture and adjust your RPMs with the amount of propane you give it at the bottle. Gasoline only lasts 6 months in the tank then gums up the carb like in this video, LP never goes bad. You won't have to change oil in the generator because there is no carbon burned with the clean LP. Engine runs cleaner, smoother, cooler and lasts longer. The only caveat here is there is no LP cutoff if the generator dies. The LP will keep pumping out and can be a fire hazard if unattended. You can buy an electronic cutoff valve for the propane bottle that plugs right into the generator. If it quits, it shuts off the propane at the valve. Great video here guys, many thanks.
I know this is an old post but would like more detail on converting my generator to propane or natural gas. Every year I have to clean the fuel intake system. Thanks
The cutoff solenoid would be the way to go to be safe and not waste fuel thinking. Thanks for sharing.
Got mine workin after cleaning that little screw hole that holds the jet inside the carb.
Had it apart twice. First cleaned the big jet and put it together without cleaning that little screw. Watched this vid. Took it apart and cleaned that hole in that screw and generator fired right up. Had to adjust the throttle to keep it from surging but works fine now.
Thanks
The little screw that that holds the "jet" is actually the jet. The other piece is the emulsion tube.
Awesome video so glad that you used the generator I have. Seems to be a pain to do, but worth it when you need the power.
Great video. Really helped me.
What did you use for a replacement gasket?
Still relevant today, just done all this to get my generator working.
@5:00 That "... some sort of electrical "sensor" on the bottom." is actually a fuel shut-off solenoid with broken plastic in evidence. It immediately shuts the fuel off to keep the EPA ever-so-happy over unburned fuel vapors escaping during shutdown. That's the same EPA that made the manufacturers put the breather vent from the valve cover to the carb so that the incoming carb air is contaminated with various oil and combustion products.
The """Jet""" you removed is actually an Emulsion Tube and it's retainer's passageway was not expanded or "reamed" since no metal was removed by your copper wire strands. That hole was just cleaned. Fuel in the oil is 99% a problem with carb float needle valve allowing tank fuel to bypass the float valve shut off and go to the crankcase
It doesn't matter how much oil is in the container - it's the actual level in the crankcase that matters. Oil is 'FULL' when the level is up to the top of the fill plug hole and just starting to run out which means you are running with minimum oil right out of the gate. Too low oil level means that the low oil sensor will shut down the genset with no restart until the oil is serviced.
What you are relying on is a conditioning from cars and trucks to use the DIPSTICK to check oil level - The center checkered part of the gen-set's fill plug is **not** a dipstick but just a way to pull oil out of the crankcase to check it's color / cleanliness.
Does that gen-set have an on demand 'Run / Idle' circuit? It shouldn't be running @ 3600 RPM without an electrical load on it - rather at a reduced, idle RPM.
Nice generator there!
Great video, I learned a lot.
Was there gas in the oil afterwards at any point of the few hour test run?
Thank you for this video
My pleasure
My ph3100RI generator will not turn over howdo I get too the strater
what happened with the damaged gasket? When you reverse the video, the "fix" isn't apparent. Thx!
Thanks for sharing! Great shirt, I'm making a custom JD 240 into a Ford JD 325 as a hydraulics actuated implements project to compliment my Ford YT16 electronic actuated implements project garden tractor.
The sensor is a fuel cuttoff valve and anti backfire... I think has another name also. Prevents fuel getting into the already hot engine head and backfiring.
Very cool!
I have a Champion like yours (but a bit less powerful). Was at the cabin this weekend and tried to get it started (probably for the 10th time this summer) but still no luck. It only runs if I keep spraying carb cleaner in it but, as soon as I stop spraying, it stops. Came back home today and watched your video... Now I can't wait to go back to the cabin and try to properly clean the carb following your instructions. Hope it will work, fingers crossed. Also, how did you manage to connect a battery to it so you don't have to pull the cord to start it? Can you do a follow-up video on this?
Good luck with repairing your generator! Some models, like Paul's, came with electric start and a battery. Many smaller models only have the pull start.
THAT " SENSOR " IS A FUEL SHUTOFF VALVE THAT WHEN ENERGIZED (KEY ON) WILL ALLOW FUEL FLOW.
I think technically, the "sensor" triggers the magneto from being grounded or not... at least in my Champion generator design. If the sensor oil level is low, the magneto is grounded so the engine dies or won't start. Technically, this can be bypassed and not even used... though not a good idea if you're running your generator regularly and/or often. Though I'm used to checking oil always before use and inspecting around the engine also for leaks.
@@jafinch78 hey bud the sensor isnt a sensor it's a tiny valve in the carb bowl it opens when key is put in start position and closes when key is turned off, and is actually a normally closed solenoid valve . Its purpose is stop fuel flow after the engine is turned to prevent the from backfiring or dieseling after its shut off. Sometimes the coil which pulls in the solenoid will fail and wont allow fuel into the bowl, just remove the switch from bottom of carb and with a pair of pliers pull the spring loaded pin out and break it off and put back on carb...
And is powered with 12vdc from the battery through the key switch...that's the "click" you hear when you turn the key on
@@timothysims3500 Right if the fuel shutoff solenoid. Great call. I typically like keeping the fuel shutoff or anti-backfire solenoid whole, unless needing to operate the engine soon, with the riders and tractors so if I forget to throttle down... I don't have to deal with the backfire. I know on mine, the only sensor is the oil level sensor that I bypassed on my Champion 4000W to get er going and troubleshoot the not starting condition. I also had to clean the pull start levers since weren't moving out and in really smooth. One of those risky almost seems like the engine was seized... though was hoping and praying was just the pull cord stuck. Otherwise, the cord and oil level sensor issues, mine wound up having way loose valve lash is all engine wise... or at least seemed when I worked on last.
@@timothysims3500 I've got the 4000W model that isn't the key start. Though thanks for the advice and affirmation. Good call. Have had to do on the riders and garden tractors that have the anti-backfire solenoid a few times. Can hook up a 9V battery and test with too... though is easier if no other shut-off switches are bad or off position to just listed when turning over in a no starter powering condition.
Glad you mentioned the wire trick. If you have the carb in hand run every passage - works like magic.
Needle tip is usually viton rubber.
I use Stabil and it helps for the snow blower. Really I need to use pure gas but who wants to chase that down.
Good fix enjoyed it.
_ _Dan_
House of Broken Dobbs Things _ with Dan Dobbs n
A little trick when using wire strands as reamers... tap them individually with a hammer to flatten them out...that creates a gentle scraping edge. Most of the yellowish film is ethanol residue and brake clean and a small sponge work great on the bottom of the float bowl. Don't get brake clean on the rubber tip of the needle valve as it will swell and not seat properly. The perforated tube is generally referred to as an emulsion tube. Also there is probably a press in jet on the top as well as two others that run horizontal on either side of the butterflies and ending in the throat (very tiny exit ports so prone to clogging). Those will be on the inside side of the throat and should be blown out from the inside out. You'll need a straw nozzle on your brake clean to properly clear the little dude's from the inside out. Best of luck.
When can I bring mine over?
Whats the hose that goes into the top of the gas tank?
vent.
Hey! You misidentified some parts in this video. The long brass tube is not the jet. It is what is known as the emulsion tube. The actual jet is the device that i think you called the jet retainer. It it the part that you used the wire on to clean. You also called the device on the bottom of the carb a sensor. It is not a sensor. It is actually a solenoid that shuts off gas flow to the jet when the low oil sensor activates. Other than that it is an excellent video.
thank you for this clarification as i destroyed my jet getting it out and needed to know the proper name so I can order a new one.
You guys are a hoot. Entertaining to say the least. Eric you need to keep a closer eye on Paul and administer that tough love when its warranted. Paul, when you check the oil level of ANY equipment with a screw in dipstick, after you wipe it clean, insert it back in without screwing it in (bottom thread of dipstick contacting top thread of crankcase) otherwise you'll read high by about 3/4" which is alot. Reality is that your actual level is too low...Eric you know better...but heck it's not your unit. Lol. Keep on filming guys!
Just what does the solenoid on bottom of carb do ? That may be the problem of fuel in the crank case .
Fuel in the crankcase is very dangerous and is basically a gasoline fire waiting to happen...fuel in the crankcase is usually caused by a carb float valve that is stuck in the down (open) position. It is the job of the float and needle valve to keep the fuel level in the bowl in check, as the carb bowl fills the float rises which is in essence riding on a see-saw with the needle valve and as it rises it forced the needle valve downward finally reaching the needle valve seat which stops any more fuel from entering into the bowl, if stuck open fuel will continue to enter the carb bowl then up into the upper section of the carb where it overflows into the carb tunnel and eventually begins filling the cylinder.
The solenoid on bottom with the 2 wires stops fuel flow when the engine is shut off this preventing backfires and prevents the engine from continuing to run after shutting the engine off...it in a nutshell is a "normally closed" switch that is connected to the battery via the key ignition and opens when key is turned to the on position and closes when key is turned off
@@timothysims3500 I was asking in order to get others to think and to get the most accurate answer which you explained it great . I’m not the best at spelling or explaining especially on this phone. I’m old and I have big fingers and I’m always hitting the wrong letters. I’ve always been a do it myself person in everything. I’m disabled, and in constant pain some better then others . But life is good so what I’m trying to say is you don’t know what people are going through so be kind be polite it will make things better for everyone there is too much meanness to go around. So put a smile on and spread kindness and try and left up and not tear down be positive and not negative for life is a gift given each day by Gods own hand be blessed everyone and walk in peace !
Is this the same for a firman? Need to know ASAP please
At 7:01 & 9:12, that's the emulsifier Tube.
how do you take the fuel out the tank
Pull the fuel line off at the carburetor inlet and drain it into a container... or if youre feeling lazy simply burn it off by running the engine.... that way you don't have to store it. Lol
Whats kind of avr regulator used this generator? Would you mind, Please?
That's not a sensor on the fuel bowl it's a "cut off" valve...its a normally closed valve that opens when the key is turned on and shuts when the key is turned off....its designed to stop fuel from entering the carb once the engine is turned off so that it wont backfire or continue sputtering and coughing until it finally dies. If it malfunctions, just remove it from the bottom of the bowl, pull the tiny spring loaded pin out of it and break it off then put back on carb
how long did that take you?
Thats not the crankcase breather tube. It is only the oil drain. Crankcase breather runs into the air filter assembly. The tube you are discussing is called an emulsion tube, and the plug you are referring to is the main jet. The sensor is the fuel cutoff solenoid. It frequently sticks open and let fuel drain from the tank into the carb and then the engine.
Hi, tell me, please, the two wires from the carburetor coil, where are they connected?
The 2 wires leading to the carburetor are for the tiny fuel cutoff valve inside the carburetor. Known as "normally closed? Valve, when the key is turned to the start position the switch is energized and opens to allow fuel to flow and when the key is turned off it shuts off the flow...it is designed to stop backfiring or vapor running to where it backfires or continues running after the mower is shut off
Take the yellow low oil shut off wire off the back to eliminate if its the low oil or too much oil from keeping it from starting
good vedio
I think I heard some chipmunks talking during assembly
the carb can leak fuel in the cylinder, eventually flooding the cylinder and a hydro-lock fatality when first started, but in this case it all went slowly into the crankcase: so never forget to close your fuel valve, and stick to pull-starters :-)
anyone have a fix for loping? runs fast then slow fast then slows
Most likely a dirty carb causing the engine to run lean.
Having the same problem. Same motor just 7200w (9200 surge). I give this a try..
Good luck!
Smart man
Are you in michigan?
I wish you had shown how to reinstall the throttle rod and spring - it's always the hardest part!
Just a little twist of the carb and the rod pops right out. Needle nose pliers for the spring. Reverse to re-install. 4 months later, I'm sure you've figured it out by now
Yea its easiest to put those on the carb before you put the carb on the mounting studs...if the tiny coil spring gives u a hard time run a length of thread through the hole that the spring rests in and tie it to the part of the spring that goes in the hole then pull the spring to the eye with the thread...that tiny spring counteracts the action of the governor and keeps engine from undulating or revving up and down while its running
Turn off the fuel, let it run until engine off by itself ! My generator still run after seven years and it the same one !
Your issue was the oil ,not the carburetor. There’s an oil sensor indicator for less or over flow
waking the dead device is fixed!
It is not a sensor on the carburetor, it is a solenoid.
You need to watchyour comp.on TH-cam
Just got say very informational. AND HILARIOUS....not my engine hahahha
Glad you enjoyed it
I have a Briggs and Stratton Storm Responder we turned on once but never
used. I paid over $1000 for it. I put up on Ebay and two years later
have been offered less than $200 I put up on another ap and several
people want if for $300 but when I went to turn on it starts with
starting fluid but wont run. I have paid over $100 now for fixes I
changed oil, air filter and gas and used the gas storage chemicals,I
have drained the gas and oil and opened the air filter but it still
dies. At this point I have contacted Briggs and Straton for several
years by email calls etc. Nothing! It sits in basement just making me
hate it. Can anyone tell me how to fix it as I want to give it away but
nobody wants a dead generator. I guess that's why in two years I never
got a bid. I am an old lady who cant just throw away money and really
need a little help. I have watched hours of video and thought it was the
oil sensor but after searching for hours found out that no oil sensor
is on this model. I wanted to just pull the yellow wire and be done.
Please have mercy on me I need it out of my house. By the way its heavy.
Thanks
You think you have a big D because you have a push start... while Im sitting here with a pull start
If I had to guess It was most likely an oil overfill sensor kicking the generator off. Changing the oil I think did the trick more than cleaning out that carburetor.
Looks like a low fuel sensor
I know it always makes us feel manly, but that carburetor in 2024 is $20. At the time this video was posted it was $12. Take off the old one throw it away and bolt on a new one and you'll be done in minutes
That's ok, cause it's not my engine 🤣
You'll get ZERO help from Champion. Find a good local shop to fix it. Champion warranty and customer service worthless.
You should never ever run a generator indoors. Not ever. They kill a lot of people.
I have a Briggs and Stratton Storm Responder we turned on once but never
used. I paid over $1000 for it. I put up on Ebay and two years later
have been offered less than $200 I put up on another ap and several
people want if for $300 but when I went to turn on it starts with
starting fluid but wont run. I have paid over $100 now for fixes I
changed oil, air filter and gas and used the gas storage chemicals,I
have drained the gas and oil and opened the air filter but it still
dies. At this point I have contacted Briggs and Straton for several
years by email calls etc. Nothing! It sits in basement just making me
hate it. Can anyone tell me how to fix it as I want to give it away but
nobody wants a dead generator. I guess that's why in two years I never
got a bid. I am an old lady who cant just throw away money and really
need a little help. I have watched hours of video and thought it was the
oil sensor but after searching for hours found out that no oil sensor
is on this model. I wanted to just pull the yellow wire and be done.
Please have mercy on me I need it out of my house. By the way its heavy.
Thanks