YES! That's the proper way to measure ring gap, one feeler, held on its edge. It gives the best tactile feel. I cringe when other guys use the whole feeler gauge stack and start stabbing at the ring gap with it.
I'm a newbie on this whole thing but something I've always wondered is, when you check the bearing specks with the case halves bolted together there isn't any rvt sealant on the halves. But when you're ready to finally put it together then you put sealant on the halves. Does the sealant not change the bearing tolerance?
Great content, I was wondering if you could give me the part numbers for the Manly rods and J& E piston you used that are 2mm longer to match. I'm currently building the same engine.
All that work, all them nice strong internals, but on a semi closed block?. The whole reason you build a forged motor is to remove 'all' of the ej257 weaknesses. One of them being the thin cylinder walls prone to cracking. Build it once, build it properly. 👍 Great videos though 👌
@@PMAutoworks they crack at even stock power levels. Due to detonation and heat cycles. Here in the uk closed decking is a must, during a forged build. Although, some builder go closed deck at 400hp at the crank max. I here iag say 475whp or 550hp lol. Which is fine and some may last, personally I would not risk it. Build it once, build it properly.
I agree. Why would you not close deck the block when it was there to be done. Later if you want more power your have the foundation to do so. It’s about $800 here in Australia to have the inserts put in. It’s a no brainer to keep those cylinder walls solid.
What do you recommend? My car has blowby since I made grimmspeed modifications for more power .. I use a little more than a quarter of oil per gas tank, can I change only pistons and rings or I have to put a short block iag
Do you have an Air and Oil Separator (AOS)? If you don't, then you should get an IAG AOS and go from there. EJ engines will consume oil regardless, however, depending on how much oil is consumed per 1000 miles you may or may not need to replace the short block. Subaru considers a quart of burned oil every 1,000 miles to 1200 to be acceptable. Of course, that's if you have an OEM Short Block. Aftermarket Short Blocks such as IAG will provide their own oil consumption sheet for every 1000 miles. Before buying a new short block, I would do a compression test to make sure is indeed your ring-land causing the blowby/oil consumption. Just because you are consuming oil, it doesn't necessarily mean the pistons are cracked. It could be other components consuming oil such as worn valve guides and seals depending on how many miles you have in your motor. But then again, anything is possible with these Subaru engines. Changing only one piston will not fix any issues at all because if you indeed crack a ring land, it is just a matter of time until the other pistons fail as well. I always recommend replacing the entire Short Block at a minimum but that is just my professional opinion. I hope you find this information helpful.
Mostly because for the power we plan on running it isn't necessary. And since it wasn't necessary we decided to save the money and put it else where. We are building for 350-450hp and don't plan on turning it up past that.
YES! That's the proper way to measure ring gap, one feeler, held on its edge. It gives the best tactile feel. I cringe when other guys use the whole feeler gauge stack and start stabbing at the ring gap with it.
great video. Thanks for sharing your process. I'm building my 06 STI now. just got my IAG stage 4 extreme block the other day! Best of luck!
Thanks!
Like your video, very detail.
Thank you!
I'm a newbie on this whole thing but something I've always wondered is, when you check the bearing specks with the case halves bolted together there isn't any rvt sealant on the halves. But when you're ready to finally put it together then you put sealant on the halves. Does the sealant not change the bearing tolerance?
How long does it take to rebuild an engine???
You make it look easy ...
At 7:10 what aluminum adapter block are you using to secure it to the vise? Thanks @PM Autoworks
What is the wrench for con rod stretch bolt. I like that it lets you watch stretch in one shot
Great Video!!!!! One question tho why open deck?
It's all we need for our horsepower goals. 450whp
Do a build on a ez30 or a h6
more rod to stroke ratio. nice
Amazing!
Great content, I was wondering if you could give me the part numbers for the Manly rods and J& E piston you used that are 2mm longer to match. I'm currently building the same engine.
Could you provide the part # of the manley rods & the JE Piston so I get the right ones. Thank You.
All that work, all them nice strong internals, but on a semi closed block?. The whole reason you build a forged motor is to remove 'all' of the ej257 weaknesses. One of them being the thin cylinder walls prone to cracking. Build it once, build it properly. 👍 Great videos though 👌
True although it depends on what your power goals are. At our goal of 450 whp this motor is all we need.
@@PMAutoworks they crack at even stock power levels. Due to detonation and heat cycles. Here in the uk closed decking is a must, during a forged build. Although, some builder go closed deck at 400hp at the crank max. I here iag say 475whp or 550hp lol. Which is fine and some may last, personally I would not risk it. Build it once, build it properly.
@@christopheredwards357 Stay tuned to see what happens to this block! We are tuning it today and will post a video.
@@PMAutoworks hey i would to speak with you about the price of doing this. Please HMU.
I agree. Why would you not close deck the block when it was there to be done. Later if you want more power your have the foundation to do so. It’s about $800 here in Australia to have the inserts put in. It’s a no brainer to keep those cylinder walls solid.
Why not use an iag block too
Just curious why you guys didn’t close deck the block?
How much did this all cost? For if I were to do build my engine?
What do you recommend? My car has blowby since I made grimmspeed modifications for more power .. I use a little more than a quarter of oil per gas tank, can I change only pistons and rings or I have to put a short block iag
Do you have an Air and Oil Separator (AOS)? If you don't, then you should get an IAG AOS and go from there. EJ engines will consume oil regardless, however, depending on how much oil is consumed per 1000 miles you may or may not need to replace the short block. Subaru considers a quart of burned oil every 1,000 miles to 1200 to be acceptable. Of course, that's if you have an OEM Short Block. Aftermarket Short Blocks such as IAG will provide their own oil consumption sheet for every 1000 miles.
Before buying a new short block, I would do a compression test to make sure is indeed your ring-land causing the blowby/oil consumption. Just because you are consuming oil, it doesn't necessarily mean the pistons are cracked. It could be other components consuming oil such as worn valve guides and seals depending on how many miles you have in your motor. But then again, anything is possible with these Subaru engines.
Changing only one piston will not fix any issues at all because if you indeed crack a ring land, it is just a matter of time until the other pistons fail as well. I always recommend replacing the entire Short Block at a minimum but that is just my professional opinion.
I hope you find this information helpful.
@@xXJhenkillerPR thanks u ... My car has 110k.... The car i drive only 100 mille and use 1/4 oil .. is to much ......the information help a lot
Any reason you stayed open deck besides cost?
Mostly because for the power we plan on running it isn't necessary. And since it wasn't necessary we decided to save the money and put it else where. We are building for 350-450hp and don't plan on turning it up past that.
the title is irrelevant to the content