My girlfriend performed the rebuild of my Ej20 in my 05 wrx, (new crank, 1new rod, and new main and rod bearings) the very one I both daily and race! She's a very methodical person and watching her do exactly what you did here was amazing. Excellent video Tanner! Whoever gets that motor better take care of it!
This comment doesn’t pertain to this video in particular but I’ve been watching a few weeks now as I’m building my first EJ. Done plenty of Hondas but have my first ej now. This channel is LOADED with so many small and necessary tidbits about these engines. Channel deserves so much love. Just wanted to stop this by and leave a comment.
Good video Tanner, you did miss however the steps for measuring out of round for all the outer diameters of the engine components. This is especially important for for instance if you are going to be reusing any of the components without getting any machine works done to them. Best to always know whether you are out of acceptable specs or not. 👌🏽
I thought you want it oblong let the piston move let them rings get the daily stretches in. 1 stroke 2 stroke o shit 3 broke 4 pistons poke. Next is peek a boo piston I see you.
@@jbarnhill50 😂😂😂 Funny one. Hell nah! What with all the time and money spent, not forgetting the effort, I highly doubt doubt anyone save for maybe the guys from whistling diesel would like for such a thing to happen.
Hay! We're working on a 2013 sti right now! My coworkers blowup and have the upper parts done (headgasket) , a little different than an FA, which im more used to. But we're bringing the guts out, to preform the surgery lol. Great upload T just in time for our lunch break to watch. Relatable content my friend thank you! Thankfully our boss let us use the whole auto shop, parts washer, huge supply of tools and hardware🤤. Business is slow this time of yr, due to the cold -12 right now, WI. Thank you Tanner!
You literally superman saved the day🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼! 8 of my coworkers all drive wrx's and sti's the whole gangs here to help out our youngest guy here, + this video helps him in the learning experience, thank you big time!!
Good job Tanner on showing how to read a Micrometer or Mic for short .I have been reading Mic.s since I was 16 . We do Hard Chrome plating and O.D & I.D grinding . We repair crankshafts all the time and polishing . Again Great job
Thank you Dale, definitely can be a little overwhelming for someone who may just be learning how to read them but once you've got it down it's like riding a bike 🔥
Gotta count and ensure the measurements first and then you will see bigger whp gains👍🏾 thank you for helping us save money and allowing us to learn from you Tanner-sama
You measured some rods with the dial bore anvil at a 45 degree angle to the rod beam. You should always measure the clearance at the top and bottom of the bearing halves, i.e. top is the center of the rod beam, bottom is the center of the rod cap. You also measured the mains on the wrong side. The mains should be measured 90 degrees from the block separation line. The rod and main bores are not round, but oval so the measurements at the side (at the splits) is wider.
I wanted to say THANK YOU. For this information! It is completely correct. Also, how you say to measure can give us an idea of the crush. Thanks again , sir
Do you not have to measure the Engine Main Journals (without bearings) in order to know what bearings to purchase? Just starting my own rebuild, and I am at the step of determining main bearings. But, finding what the Main Journal diameter is, seems impossible to find on the interwebs. It must be above top secret information
I’m hoping to get a type RA block for my 16’. The throwback informative videos are my favorite bro. Thank you 🙏 can’t wait to see the flat 6 start. I’m itching, I’m sure you are also 😂
Handy to know! I've assembled multiple short blocks to heads but never went to a full tear down because i couldn't fully understand the calculations. I'll give my first attempt with my short block after I swap in my ra short block.
Micrometers are hard to use because they're so simple to use. It's rare for something so critical and important to be so easy. Basic addition, we've all done it most of our lives.
Very interesting Vid my dude... Regarding the 'ring gap' shaving, is there a way that you can set them so you don't get that false "rod knock" sound on cold starts, assuming that this is what is causing it on re-honed cylinder walls? Keep this gold coming!
I have one of those fully dressed ver 9 ej207 long blocks out of an STi Spec C Type RA-R with 50,XXX km, or what-not. I'm contemplating on tearing it down and building it to churn out 10K rpms once I acquire all of the specialty tools/upgrades. I know it's semi-closed, but should I send it off to Outfront Motorsports to get fully closed? On another note, I need to find a mentor and possibly take some classes on engine building and machining. I greatly appreciate your videos because they motivate me in a way that helps turn my focus towards engine building/machining as my next career. Thanks, Tanner!
Glad you're giving this info out in a video for us though total goat thing to do. What boost and fuel type did you end up setting the rings for it, was it just a middle ground?
This is the giveaway block so no one knows until the winner is announced what's going to happen with it, or what the end goal is. The block has been built for up to 500hp though
Why you gotta go knocking plasti gauge 😂 I’ve been alright so far using plastic gauge but I’m also pushing 400whp or less on my builds. Phenomenal content and kudos for doing it the professional way (right) !
After watching this video, this gives me even more confidence doing an engine assembly Would you be able to provide a resource where you can get engine build specs. I know a few but they are always missing some type of information. I know you are building this for a capable 500WHP ej25, I just wanted to get additional info on the ring gap. would your measurements be for a max WHP of 500 or there's some additional room for higher numbers?
Thanks for the video! What if you are out of spec by the time you measure your bearing tolerance? Does that mean you loosen or tighten the rod bolts? Noob questions.
@smeedia are you able to tell me what all you got done at your machine shop for your used block? heads etc? this will be my first exp with a machine shop , thanks in advance
@@Smeedia I need a beater car so I could try and build an engine, I feel like there’s a touch to using these precision tools, I’d like to try but don’t know if I trust myself to do it correctly…
Would u ever do a wrx wagon and make it in to a brz swap and wide/flare it just been trying finger out the price of u or me doing it hope to here back from u have a awesome day
Love the 6cyl man🔥. Def helped guide towards my first Subaru. Snagged a New wrx before new gen changed the body. No mods though. Daily as Eventually I will full build my Tacoma’s 3rz. Going turbo with full stand-alone, Haltech actually. All of these videos will be very helpful 🙏🏽
Yo Subie Wizards My cars been running a little funny lately. Car threw code P0103 which is for MAF sensor circuit high input. I cleaned my MAF & air intake and removed the error code. The car is running decent but I've noticed my car barely makes 5 psi and feels sluggish when doing normal driving. But when I do a WOT pull ill hit 18-21 psi depending on the gear in which I do the pull. I'm pretty positive it's a boost leak but what's throwing me off is the fact that I can hit my peak psi numbers but only when I floor it. Otherwise it has the occasional stutter when climbing up to 2500-3000 rpms. Im guessing it shows that I hit 18+ psi but only for a millasec and the boost probably falls off since the car definitely feels a bit slower than normal. Any advice?
Soapy water test is where I would start. Then start back tracking to where the leak could be. If all looks well I'd try resetting ecu learning. Not sure if your on an OTS or pro tune
You have it backwards, the dial is thousandths and the stationary ones are tenths. those would be a outside micrometer, tons of different micrometers out there. That's just generically what you think when you here micrometer.
I always just reference from aerospace, all the inspectors I've worked with in the past always just call em micrometers, point mics or mics. Never heard them called outside micrometers until recently 😅
@@Smeedia I work in missile systems, I just call them mics. If it's different it's called depth mic and so on. I feel ya though :) I do all the machining for my company
Great video. Curious on close deck ej20 with machined larger head studs and the torque they need to be? And how much boost is safe with all the forged internals of course, like you just did here?
It’s what I had, the shop said it’s good for 700hp builds and I really liked mine. Great for launches, only a little heavier than other clutches I’ve driven but that’s the trade off for something that’ll handle the power and is still going to be better to drive than other performance clutches.
@@Smeedia Mitutoyo*? Haha. Mits are good, brown and sharpe, starrett etc. Been doing cnc and manual machining on the aerospace side for about 6 years now!
OLÁ Smeedia 09/08/24 Houve uma importante modificação na forma de determinar uma interna de alojamento de bronzinas. O uso de sistemas e ligas inadequadas e resistência diminuída em bielas tornou-se importante a averiguação de bielas novas e usadas em local com temperatura adequada conferir as deformações no sistema intitulado "de laboratório". Abraços... Roberto Udo Krapf
@@Smeedia For sure! Last night i finished my ring end gap. Today its the rod bearing clearances. Appreciate you making these type of videos man! its super helpful
You a fart smeller brother like you attention to detail. Someone goin to get a nice motor. I built hundreds of roller motors and would love to try to figure out a way to build a four stroke roller bearing motor. Outboards are fun to build and rollers like rpm. Keep up the informative vids big dog✌️
I had thr machine shop do that, but is same same as the crank and main measuring, you'd measure the outside of the piston and verify that against the bore 🙏
Between .0030 and .0035 is what we go off of for our JEs. Values fell between those intervals. When the machine shop hones they verify tolerance and out of round. The torque plates also help to keep everything true
Dude I know you don't treat your micrometer like that off camera when your in work mode...that was hard to watch...slow down think and then act and try not too cling it against the crank or anything especially on either end of the measuring surfaces that touch. I heard cling cling Chang cling and your like ohh ohh...not there ohh ohh...right....ohh nope...mmmmmhhhhhhmmm.there.no there....now we got it I left out a few clings but you get the point your better than that and you did pull up it was just when you first pulled out the micrometer
Man, you made this look so doable! This section, as you said, has always scared me. Do you think it would be a good idea to build a separate engine, and sell the one in the car or just rebuild the one in it? I was thinking of doing the former as to cover costs with the selling of the engine.
Whoever gets this block is going to be so lucky. Such a professional build!
Eyyyyy thank you fox! Excited to get the winner chosen 🔥😁
My girlfriend performed the rebuild of my Ej20 in my 05 wrx, (new crank, 1new rod, and new main and rod bearings) the very one I both daily and race! She's a very methodical person and watching her do exactly what you did here was amazing. Excellent video Tanner! Whoever gets that motor better take care of it!
Definitely very methodical, but enjoyable to do 🔥 glad to hear its still going strong and super cool that she did that too!
This comment doesn’t pertain to this video in particular but I’ve been watching a few weeks now as I’m building my first EJ. Done plenty of Hondas but have my first ej now.
This channel is LOADED with so many small and necessary tidbits about these engines. Channel deserves so much love. Just wanted to stop this by and leave a comment.
Eyyyy appreciate it my friend and always open if you get any questions 🥳
One of the things I don’t miss about machining/fab is all the non stop measuring. Solid video. Lots of useful information
Do not blame you, I absolutely hate doing it but gotta make sure everything is minty 🔥
Tanner, that was the best tutorial on piston and rings assembly and placement I've seen! Details always make the difference
Thank you Brad, and Tried to make one that people could reference in the future. 😁
Good video Tanner, you did miss however the steps for measuring out of round for all the outer diameters of the engine components. This is especially important for for instance if you are going to be reusing any of the components without getting any machine works done to them. Best to always know whether you are out of acceptable specs or not. 👌🏽
I had the machine shop do out of round for us but very good one to add in to be checked. Last thing you want are some oblong shapes 😅
I thought you want it oblong let the piston move let them rings get the daily stretches in. 1 stroke 2 stroke o shit 3 broke 4 pistons poke. Next is peek a boo piston I see you.
@@jbarnhill50 😂😂😂 Funny one. Hell nah! What with all the time and money spent, not forgetting the effort, I highly doubt doubt anyone save for maybe the guys from whistling diesel would like for such a thing to happen.
you the man for helping out the DIY community
Hay! We're working on a 2013 sti right now! My coworkers blowup and have the upper parts done (headgasket) , a little different than an FA, which im more used to. But we're bringing the guts out, to preform the surgery lol. Great upload T just in time for our lunch break to watch. Relatable content my friend thank you! Thankfully our boss let us use the whole auto shop, parts washer, huge supply of tools and hardware🤤. Business is slow this time of yr, due to the cold -12 right now, WI. Thank you Tanner!
Hopefully it helps some people of they decide to rebuild theirs 🔥
Having access to all that's gotta make some projects alot easier 😍
You literally superman saved the day🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼! 8 of my coworkers all drive wrx's and sti's the whole gangs here to help out our youngest guy here, + this video helps him in the learning experience, thank you big time!!
Awesome tutorial man! I remember the first week in Physics Lab all of the classes were on how to use the measurement tools
Knowing how to use percesion tools is a huuuuge must have to know 🔥
Good job Tanner on showing how to read a Micrometer or Mic for short .I have been reading Mic.s since I was 16 .
We do Hard Chrome plating and O.D & I.D grinding . We repair crankshafts all the time and polishing . Again Great job
Thank you Dale, definitely can be a little overwhelming for someone who may just be learning how to read them but once you've got it down it's like riding a bike 🔥
Gotta count and ensure the measurements first and then you will see bigger whp gains👍🏾 thank you for helping us save money and allowing us to learn from you Tanner-sama
Trying to help where I can 🔥🙏
Its cool watching my engine get built!😆
Really good informative video. I like videos like these! Keep it up bud!
😏😏😏
Always appreciate it my man! 🔥😁
You measured some rods with the dial bore anvil at a 45 degree angle to the rod beam. You should always measure the clearance at the top and bottom of the bearing halves, i.e. top is the center of the rod beam, bottom is the center of the rod cap. You also measured the mains on the wrong side. The mains should be measured 90 degrees from the block separation line. The rod and main bores are not round, but oval so the measurements at the side (at the splits) is wider.
I wanted to say THANK YOU. For this information! It is completely correct. Also, how you say to measure can give us an idea of the crush. Thanks again , sir
Great video Tanner! I'm rebuilding my ej257 as well in the very near future with a definite inspiration from your videos. Thank you brother!
Good luck on the rebuild my friend and anytime! 😁
The grandmaster with the finer details, yasss! 🙏🏽🙌🏽
Trying to help others in the future 🔥😁
Do you not have to measure the Engine Main Journals (without bearings) in order to know what bearings to purchase? Just starting my own rebuild, and I am at the step of determining main bearings. But, finding what the Main Journal diameter is, seems impossible to find on the interwebs. It must be above top secret information
I’m hoping to get a type RA block for my 16’. The throwback informative videos are my favorite bro. Thank you 🙏 can’t wait to see the flat 6 start. I’m itching, I’m sure you are also 😂
Duuuuude I'm hardcore itching 🔥
And I don't do alot of the technical videos anymore ao figured I'd squeeze one in 😁
Bro this is amazing! Gonna be so helpful for me in the future, I wish every video was 40 minutes long 😅
Goated! I’m starting my motor break down soon, videos like this are clutch (pun intended)
Eyyyyy 😏
I don't do too many suuuuper technical videos anymore but figured this would be a handy one to make for people who need it
Handy to know! I've assembled multiple short blocks to heads but never went to a full tear down because i couldn't fully understand the calculations. I'll give my first attempt with my short block after I swap in my ra short block.
Once you've done one, the rest are super easy. 🥳 digital tools do make ot 1000X easier too
Been waiting for you to make a video like this . Thank you 🙏
Anytime my man 🙏🙏🙏
love it see your channel has been growing too keep up the good work man
Thank you my friend! 🙏
I needed this thanks man! It will help tons when building my 2l
Glad that it will help! Don't do too many super technical videos anymore so figured it would be a good one to add
Your a true subie educator:) thanks for all the patience.
Just glad I can share my friend 🔥😁
Micrometers are hard to use because they're so simple to use. It's rare for something so critical and important to be so easy. Basic addition, we've all done it most of our lives.
Big facts! Once you understand how they work they're pretty straight forward
Very interesting Vid my dude... Regarding the 'ring gap' shaving, is there a way that you can set them so you don't get that false "rod knock" sound on cold starts, assuming that this is what is causing it on re-honed cylinder walls? Keep this gold coming!
Not really, that's more due to the piston being cold and slapping a little. Hence why the sound goes away after warm up 🙏
I have one of those fully dressed ver 9 ej207 long blocks out of an STi Spec C Type RA-R with 50,XXX km, or what-not. I'm contemplating on tearing it down and building it to churn out 10K rpms once I acquire all of the specialty tools/upgrades. I know it's semi-closed, but should I send it off to Outfront Motorsports to get fully closed?
On another note, I need to find a mentor and possibly take some classes on engine building and machining. I greatly appreciate your videos because they motivate me in a way that helps turn my focus towards engine building/machining as my next career.
Thanks, Tanner!
Glad the videos can help motivate my friend 🔥
As for thr close decking how much power are you looking for? Anything past 500 I'd close deck
Love the content keep doing the in depth videos
Will do my man 🙏 don't so too many technical videos anymore but goijg to start working some in again
Math and numbers 😳🤯🤯🤯. Good job
Lol thank you Thomas 🔥🙏
Good video Tanner really appreciate the content
Thank you Phillip 🙏🔥
Hi, I was wondering if the tools listed in the Amazon list are really precise and of good quality? I have doubts about precision tools on Amazon.
Glad you're giving this info out in a video for us though total goat thing to do. What boost and fuel type did you end up setting the rings for it, was it just a middle ground?
Middle ground, will work fine for either option 🔥
@@Smeedia nice. Give some wiggle room for whoever ends up winning. Getting pumped 2 more days xD
Thanks Tanner for another informative video, what boost levels and hp are you shooting for with this engine? Will it be on pump gas or E85?
This is the giveaway block so no one knows until the winner is announced what's going to happen with it, or what the end goal is. The block has been built for up to 500hp though
@@followtheornghat Thanks
Set up for a middle ground so will be fine for either application 🔥🙏
Very good video man I love the detail
Thabk you my friend! 😁
@Smeedia you are very welcome good sir
Why you gotta go knocking plasti gauge 😂 I’ve been alright so far using plastic gauge but I’m also pushing 400whp or less on my builds. Phenomenal content and kudos for doing it the professional way (right) !
Nothing wrong with it, I just prefer precesion tools 😅
It’s ideal for small engines that most mechanic don’t rebuild anyway, just small engine mechanic use plastic to get close reading
After watching this video, this gives me even more confidence doing an engine assembly
Would you be able to provide a resource where you can get engine build specs. I know a few but they are always missing some type of information.
I know you are building this for a capable 500WHP ej25, I just wanted to get additional info on the ring gap. would your measurements be for a max WHP of 500 or there's some additional room for higher numbers?
I went middle ground but definitely still applicable to higher HP capable engines as well. Used a similar ring gap for Karma 🔥
Can u make a video and how to choose rods and bearing size for block it would be helpful thanks
Bearing size will be determined by your engine tolerances, for rods they're should be a rating on them. But I may he able to make something 🙏
This really been helping me out
Sorry I’m late this is a banger dude 🤟🏾🔥
Eyyy thanks my man, hopefully it helps some peeps out
Thanks for the video! What if you are out of spec by the time you measure your bearing tolerance? Does that mean you loosen or tighten the rod bolts? Noob questions.
If your tolerances are out if spec your going to have to get diffrent sized bearings. So either smaller or larger in thickness 🙏
Thanks
🙏🙏🙏
THANKS you so much. They Really help me in my build.
🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙
Glad it helped 🥳
@smeedia are you able to tell me what all you got done at your machine shop for your used block? heads etc? this will be my first exp with a machine shop , thanks in advance
Resurface, pressure check and hot tank 🙏
Great video...very informative
Thank you cody 🔥😁
plugged me up gonna rebuild my ej207 wish me luck
You've got it 💪
Thank you!
Hope it helps my friend 🔥
Awesome vid tanner. Love you. Sending kisses from chicago
🔥❤🔥🔥❤
How do you know what bearings to buy in the first place? Just trial end error?
I start with Standard size bearings and go from there. Sometimes you end up with 2 sets
Question. When your checking stretch the rod bolts. Don't you have to lube the bolts to get a accurate reading? J/w
Great video super informative!!!
Thank you Pauly! 🙏😁
@@Smeedia I need a beater car so I could try and build an engine, I feel like there’s a touch to using these precision tools, I’d like to try but don’t know if I trust myself to do it correctly…
Start out just practicing with the tools to get familiar with them 🔥🙏
Would u ever do a wrx wagon and make it in to a brz swap and wide/flare it just been trying finger out the price of u or me doing it hope to here back from u have a awesome day
So swap an FA into a wagon? 🤔
Love the 6cyl man🔥. Def helped guide towards my first Subaru. Snagged a New wrx before new gen changed the body. No mods though. Daily as Eventually I will full build my Tacoma’s 3rz. Going turbo with full stand-alone, Haltech actually. All of these videos will be very helpful 🙏🏽
Ohhhhhh you'll love the haltech, it's really not too bad to wire in 🔥😁
Yo Subie Wizards
My cars been running a little funny lately. Car threw code P0103 which is for MAF sensor circuit high input. I cleaned my MAF & air intake and removed the error code. The car is running decent but I've noticed my car barely makes 5 psi and feels sluggish when doing normal driving. But when I do a WOT pull ill hit 18-21 psi depending on the gear in which I do the pull. I'm pretty positive it's a boost leak but what's throwing me off is the fact that I can hit my peak psi numbers but only when I floor it. Otherwise it has the occasional stutter when climbing up to 2500-3000 rpms. Im guessing it shows that I hit 18+ psi but only for a millasec and the boost probably falls off since the car definitely feels a bit slower than normal.
Any advice?
Soapy water test is where I would start. Then start back tracking to where the leak could be. If all looks well I'd try resetting ecu learning. Not sure if your on an OTS or pro tune
@Smeedia Good looks I'll give that a try. I am protuned. Cars been great for the last 2 years on the tune. Just a little issue hopefully 🤞
That very tight ringgab
Like em tight 🤌
Excellent video...💯👌🏆
Thank you 😁😁😁
You should get a small space heater for your workbench to keep those fingies warm
I had one on the floor aimed up at me 😅🔥
Very informative, now i just need an engine to blow up so i can rebuild it😝
Offer up has some cheap ones 🔥
You have it backwards, the dial is thousandths and the stationary ones are tenths. those would be a outside micrometer, tons of different micrometers out there. That's just generically what you think when you here micrometer.
I always just reference from aerospace, all the inspectors I've worked with in the past always just call em micrometers, point mics or mics. Never heard them called outside micrometers until recently 😅
@@Smeedia I work in missile systems, I just call them mics. If it's different it's called depth mic and so on. I feel ya though :) I do all the machining for my company
Where can I message you on this? My brand new ej engine just blew and idk what to do.
Your brand new one?! Who built it?
You can email me if you want to
Tannerwrx525@gmail.com
I thought Oil Control rings are the same as Oil scrapper??
Great video. Curious on close deck ej20 with machined larger head studs and the torque they need to be? And how much boost is safe with all the forged internals of course, like you just did here?
That's going to heavily depend on what internals you use, what did you have in mind?
I'm looking into a Manley set up. I want to be conservative but I'm not sure on the boost the gaskets can take. Looking at 4 to 450 whp
Je pro seals
Manley H tuff rods
CP pistons 99.75
King bearings Pmax coated 🙏
Is the xclutch twin disc a good clutch for high torque. Don’t know if you had experience with that clutch
Very good clutch to go with 🔥
I would either use the ACT mod twin or the X clutch
@@Smeedia do those have heavy clutch peddle since they are for higher torque
As long as you get one that's sprung they are not too bad
@@Smeedia thank you bro
It’s what I had, the shop said it’s good for 700hp builds and I really liked mine. Great for launches, only a little heavier than other clutches I’ve driven but that’s the trade off for something that’ll handle the power and is still going to be better to drive than other performance clutches.
Outside mics, are called OD mics. Inside mics, are called ID mics. Don’t cheap out on these, junk ones will vary .003+-
It's interesting to see what everyone calls em, seen a few names for them now 😅🔥
Can't go wrong with minatoyo for measuring devices
@@Smeedia Mitutoyo*? Haha. Mits are good, brown and sharpe, starrett etc. Been doing cnc and manual machining on the aerospace side for about 6 years now!
Oh nice! I use to be final inspection, assembly inspection and CMM for 3 years!
What engine are you working on rn ?
This is the give away engine 🙏
I thought the pistons were JE?
mitutoyo gang 😤😤
Mitutoyo is the only option 🤌
Hey you forgot the reign gotta have that to work
Oh I had one 🔥🤌
SMEEDIA!!!🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
JEREMY!!!
OLÁ Smeedia 09/08/24 Houve uma importante modificação na forma de determinar uma interna de alojamento de bronzinas. O uso de sistemas e ligas inadequadas e resistência diminuída em bielas tornou-se importante a averiguação de bielas novas e usadas em local com temperatura adequada conferir as deformações no sistema intitulado "de laboratório". Abraços... Roberto Udo Krapf
WOOHOO!
😁😁😁😁
I just finished this on my 1g... its incredibly tedious.
Very very tedious, but the results always pay off 🔥
@@Smeedia For sure! Last night i finished my ring end gap. Today its the rod bearing clearances. Appreciate you making these type of videos man! its super helpful
Don't do too many super technical videos too often so figured it would be a good one to add 🔥
You a fart smeller brother like you attention to detail. Someone goin to get a nice motor. I built hundreds of roller motors and would love to try to figure out a way to build a four stroke roller bearing motor. Outboards are fun to build and rollers like rpm. Keep up the informative vids big dog✌️
😎👍🏻👍🏻
TOM!!!!
LMAO Don't Wale on your Rod That's what she said LOL
Don't beat your rods 😅💀
I think you forgot to show us how to check Piston clearance ?
I had thr machine shop do that, but is same same as the crank and main measuring, you'd measure the outside of the piston and verify that against the bore 🙏
@@Smeedia what was the final number on those pistons Clarence ?
Between .0030 and .0035 is what we go off of for our JEs. Values fell between those intervals. When the machine shop hones they verify tolerance and out of round. The torque plates also help to keep everything true
Watching this video hurts my head my guy.
AyoOo!!!
AYYYYYOOOOO
That towel under the rods bother me. Too much lint!!!!
O, Smeedia
O, the JDM
@@Smeedia 😀
Dude I know you don't treat your micrometer like that off camera when your in work mode...that was hard to watch...slow down think and then act and try not too cling it against the crank or anything especially on either end of the measuring surfaces that touch. I heard cling cling Chang cling and your like ohh ohh...not there ohh ohh...right....ohh nope...mmmmmhhhhhhmmm.there.no there....now we got it I left out a few clings but you get the point your better than that and you did pull up it was just when you first pulled out the micrometer
Talking I need about the bore gauge in the block or the micrometer?
measuring looks a lot like wiring...tedious eeeekkkkk
It's not too bad, I'd just gotta make sure everything's nice and tight 🙏
I'm early again
Yessssssir 🔥
Man, you made this look so doable! This section, as you said, has always scared me. Do you think it would be a good idea to build a separate engine, and sell the one in the car or just rebuild the one in it? I was thinking of doing the former as to cover costs with the selling of the engine.
If you can get another definitely go that route, and it's really not as bad as it seems 😏🙏