Thanks so much for this video ! I am doing a 2001 Tahoe engine into a 1955 Pontiac . I removed the Tahoe harness and took out unused wires ( using a turbo 350 trans ) . I spent a lot of time just sorting and cleaning up the harness. This new harness would have been an easier solution . Great work you have done on this whole job. The suggestion to use fusible links was needed , Other videos I have seen don't stress that at all ! Thanks a lot . I look forward to your next video. Dan Clayton , N Y
Thanks for this.. I picked up what appears to be the exact same harness... every single thing matches up with what you show. The paperwork and everything is the same. On the fuse box cover is "JDMSPEED Interchange 4L60E DBC 202312." I searched that number and found it... I've gone through your entire video and did everything you directed. Much appreciated...Hope to try it this weekend. Going to shoot you a thank you $$..
@@rust_hoarder_garage I unlocked the pcm.. threw the harness on... and have some sort of issue.. it fires up and dies within seconds.. almost as if VATS is still on... but swapped the pcm into my 70 Nova LS swap.. and it ran.. So.. I know the PCM is unlocked... I'm getting a 5v ref error P0122 code. the only one... I've verified with a meter back to the pcm on 2 of the three wires on the TPS.. but the ground I've not confirmed yet.. Hoping it's just a bad TPS or ground on it.. Either way.. your video and diligence to go through and verify are and were extremely helpful... when I get this thing running.. I'll update.. I'm just running it on the stand at this point. I also meant to mention that the paperwork with mine lists all the sensors needed.. oddly it lists an oil pressure sensor.. I've not seen a standalone harness that uses that... I have a gauge on mine.. Thanks again!
First off, the paperwork is usually garbage and does not match the harness. If the MAP sensor is not working or scaled wrong it will act as if VATS is on, same thing can happen with the MAF. I would verify every wire on the harness, if there is a swapped wire on the MAP or MAF sensor it can fry the sensor. This assumes your fuel system is working, injectors are good and not sticking, and as a sanity check a NOID light will tell you if the PCM is shutting down the injector signals. Others have found that the MAP sensor signal wire was tied to a 12v line on a harness that was made for the manual transmission, this will certainly fry the MAP sensor.
@@rust_hoarder_garage Appreciate that insight. I've not used a NOID light, yet. But the injectors are new...I have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up and all is good there.. I have the MAF hooked up as well.. I'll check that MAP sensor signal wire as well... One thing of note.. when it fires up.. the longest it has ran is about 3-4 seconds (DBC by the way) it runs at quite a high idle speed. Given a replacement TPS was relatively inexpensive... I'm going to throw one on there and see if that P0122 code resolves, as well. Thanks again for the insight and responses.. I'm sure like many of us, you've got lots going on!
I would put a cheap scanner on it and look at the TPS position being read before replacement and check every wire back to the PCM if it is not responding to movement. Verify the signal wire is not tied to 12v by checking continuity back to all of the fuses, there should be none. Also, if this is a DBC engine you don't have the EGR port open on the front right side of the intake, correct? If the engine was an early one with EGR it will have a huge vacuum leak with that port open. As far as being busy there aren't enough hours in the day.
All good. I believe I found the same one but at $125. Can’t find one at $84, I tried filtering by lowest price first and couldn’t find one at that price point. Not that price is a huge issue. But it could also be in your video at the time posting they were sold out
I did a quick search and found this one for $80, looks similar, could be the same harness by another seller. www.ebay.com/itm/386189200879?hash=item59eaab8def:g:bmsAAOSw6~NlMhiB&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4AmoEZe5GinLMaKb6kYpnVkMVCYzuDxjW8r1X3u0zapF4FUgC0kV%2FJr1Vhdlg%2F1zjw%2BV7usNME4yH8B9aSRmC6tqNzgkHJPgmVXHoVGPf%2Fo%2FasBqfUyxgWYiVote1a1gcpb5dticPAimBg1qGKa6vPfX6GMt2uXolxUb3bay5%2F7y1wjVlNuyr5MwBRlj5cMqMghPJ2chUJv%2Ba2PS2XpGJp%2BzBWaXeoDENd2vxoGJnhfkOdFm4%2FzqmV8kuZek0jk5VGdIdg8fWhTLpHp9iNnp1MloUHw4e333mpA86bYeuiKS%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5bg_eGuYw Myself I think I like the JY Performance harness better, felt like better quality and comes with the injector adapters. www.ebay.com/itm/265573621581?hash=item3dd56bdf4d&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8O0fvVkRNiwSLcd9yyqpl2b0wtqFEvWawqXion5F0FpgDtBHwFHft7hACYDka2BnaQXVMhf6CUz7iX2F5qGuTrN%252FzdlvbF0PnOJIkjoJ2bE6G8gK5Wd7gBd9MWXt4ysKsXKjXy9XTLlHg%252FDzQFRBxGmr3eepHVI3e91w%252FMMy3R6sW1IWU3FyPYqX1bZC%252B69ubampLTAXwKmsPEAPOCgmJtBlQuiY4P48K3hyjflpEFNoC%252Bh0MRKk5wWX%252ByIgayx7dRnJQc1rKYyAKL29QZh5lhMCiIEgobxTF2eZWygHHmgUYu8%252BAM3qAwK0vKR80inHBA%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK
I'm in the middle of stuffing a 02 LM7 into my 94 S10. I'm keeping the motor stock and am using the factory wiring harness. You can remove all the wires you're not using, but you do not have to. I did not modify the harness at all except for a couple wires by the factory fuse block. Not sure why more people do not use the factory harness. Typically is about free and is factory quality over China junk.
Very true, I made my own harnesses for years. Thing is with the trucks I have found that most of the factory harnesses I have removed have corroded wires at the PCM connection because of where the PCM is mounted, in the north east the winters are tough on trucks. That plus the cost of a relay/fuse box, having the PCM leads already long enough to run into the car, and the time savings make a $100 harness an easy choice for me. So far I have had no issues with my ebay JY Performance harnesses and have already bought 6 more. In the end it is up to you what you decide to use.
I really do watch and am learning a lot from your videos. Gotta ask any chance of sharing the part number for this harness it seems to be blured out? I have to get my 2nd truck up and running before my trusty current truck goes down. I'm between a rock and a hard place literally. Thanks again
Sorry if it is blurry, I did not intentionally blur anything out, I just took the picture of the ebay auction. The harness is listed an unbranded, no part number or any information came with it. Myself I would buy the ebay JY performance harness that came with the free injector adapters and change the MAF sensor connector to the truck style. Still need to repin it to make it match up to the Vortec prints but I liked that harness better.
Great video however I would like to know the part number for the O2 sensors that are case grounded that you personally are using. There are too many options and I need to not revisit them later! Thank you so much
For case grounded O2 sensors I use 2000 Z28 LS1 sensors, they will have the correct black 4 pin connector for the DBC harnesses. This particular harness I do not plan on using on a car, it just feels much cheaper than the Ebay JY Performance harnesses I have used. The JYs are about $100 shipped so still cheap and I think are a better quality harness. I am running the JY DBC harness that I re-pinned on video to match the Vortec prints with the case grounded O2s on my 55 turbo Buick.
my wires wer the same as you said so i made the changes and still running. rich and black smoke, i think i gotta check over my 02s or something, i got the ones suggested on the instructions.....
Have to scan the car when running and look at the data. Running rich enough to make black smoke is more common to be a temperature sensor issue than O2s, assuming the tune is good.
Great video. I have a harness very similar. It helped me greatly. I am working on first 5.3 vortex swap. Trying start on engine stand. Could you explain what’s needed to hook up starter and grounds needed to start? Or would you prefer DM or email to detail steps? Thanks for the help.
@@rust_hoarder_garage Thank you. Very informative. I couldn’t tell from the video, Did you run the wire straight from starter to positive post on Battery? Also, do I need to hook up a ground for the starter to the ground post on the battery also? If so do you have any videos of that? Thanks.
starter is not part of the wiring harness, I am using a remote starter switch. Battery positive to the starter lug, battery negative to the engine block, starter switch connects between the starter main lug where the battery connects and the starter small solenoid terminal.
@@rust_hoarder_garage Thank you. In another video you said you used 2000 z28 Camaro o2 sensors. I have the square connectors on my harness also. Should I buy the Camaro o2 sensors as well?
If you are using this harness or one that is wired for case grounded O2 sensors, then yes, you want 2000 Z28 O2 sensors. They will have the black 4 pin square connector that matches the harness.
I currently have a 99-02 dbc harness except for t56 would your under dash bundle match up with mine if not how would i go about finding out love the videos great info
Why are the Amazon pics show the injector plugs in numerical order and not firing order. Have you gone through the injector wiring? Do these (injector wires) need to be rewired?
@@rust_hoarder_garage the video is awesome thank you. I kept having a cylinder fill with fuel so I’m assuming it was wired wrong which caused a misfire and hydro lock. After a small fire I ordered another one and this time I’ll take your advice and bug the whole thing. Thanks again.
bug the whole thing out and verify no injector signal wires are tied to ground. Myself I would not buy another one of this particular harness, I prefer the ones made by JY Performance on Ebay. Still have to go through them but the quality seems much better. Bench test your injectors as well, I now do it with every engine that has sat idle for over 6 months, I lost an engine from a stuck open injector as well. I have videos showing how I bench test them.
Do have any recommendation on the brand or type that would be good. I have a couple of these but this style is not waterproof. Thank you for sharing your time and knowledge on these subjects.
That is an inline fuse, not a fuseable link. A fuseable link is a short length of sacrificial wire that will melt like a fuse if the wire is shorted, GM used them for years on the power leads that fed the car. There are pre-cut lengths of it on Amazon. You could use an inline fuse instead as long as it is mounted somewhere out of the weather.
Thanks, I have never had to change one of these things on any car or truck. I saw some with the ends on them and some is just wire. My research says that if you have a 10gauge wire it is recommended to use a wire 14g.
Mine have been working fine, I would recommend them. It is still a low dollar harness so I would check every wire for correct location and check for the ALDL 12v hot being tied to the tach wire. PCM and fuse box should be mounted inside the car, the connectors are not weather tight. Drive by cable harness is built to the LS1 print which I re-pin when using a truck engine and tune, still worth it and I would never spend $500 for anyone’s harness.
@rust_hoarder_garage Thanks alot, i appreciate it... Im going to get one then! I have a truck engine also, 5.3 LM7... Where did you get the information for the Pin color locations...
Question. Would it be possible to use a vortec engine ecu and flash it to a camaro bin and not have to Rewire it? Or would it still need to be Rewired?
Sure, if I were using an LS1 tune I would leave the wiring pinned to the LS1 print. I would still check every wire in the harness for problems before use.
Im installing a dbc conversion hpi harness for a gen 3 4.8l/4l60e in my squarebody gmc. Im about to start wiring it to power tomorrow. Im dumb with wiring, do you have a video of installing it? Im adding a couple relays for the fans and derale trans cooler.
I have not gone over a plug by plug install yet, but I have gone over the connections. I have an engine I plan on starting on a stand, and can do a plug by plug install video, but it won’t be for at least a couple weeks.
I have gone over the ebay LS harness relay wiring in the 51 Hudson first start video, and have gone over relays for single speed and dual speed fans, as well as fuel pump controls all in different videos. Lots of information in multiple videos, more than just what the titles list.
I don't think so, I would of mentioned it in the video since I checked every wire. I still have this one in a box, have not installed it on anything yet. I have an engine that I am going to start on the stand soon so I think I will use the harness then.
Thanks for the reply. I just purchased this harness. I could not find the jy harness anywhere. I followed your repinning and fixes. Hope everything works out. For sure beats reworking a factory harness.
Should work fine after a repin and check every wire for position to be safe. From what I remember that one had one of the alternator wires in a wrong PCM pin location and an injector connector was laid out in the wrong place.
Myself I would not use this harness, too many things wrong with it, and it felt cheap compared to the JY Performance harness I reviewed in the other video. Both are from Ebay.
All my harness plugs were also keyed differently so all the truck sensors would not plug in... Chinese crap. I threw mine in the trash & am going to use a stock truck harness.
If it was one of these exact harnesses it is possible since I have not installed it on an engine to verify the connectors yet. I didn't like the way this one was compared to the others I have used off Ebay made by JY Performance. The JY harnesses felt like better-quality and are working well. Neither are the same quality as OEM, use whatever works best for you.
@@rust_hoarder_garage I would be curious to see if the sensor connectors on yours are different also. Mine isn't the exact same seller, but is built just like that one with the dual MAF connectors. My engine and sensors are from 2003 LQ4.
I will have to see, I may use the harness on a run stand, but it just felt like too low of a quality to use on one of the builds. I don't like the dual MAF sensor connectors and the whole thing just felt cheap. Also it is set up for a 1999-2002 drive by cable setup, so if you have a 2003 it should be drive by wire unless it came from an express van as far as I know. Not sure if that is why you ran into different connector types, but I will know when I try it on an 02 or older setup. The 2003 engine I used in the 1951 Hudson build is running drive by wire and a JY Performance harness.
Thanks so much for this video ! I am doing a 2001 Tahoe engine into a 1955 Pontiac . I removed the Tahoe harness and took out unused wires ( using a turbo 350 trans ) . I spent a lot of time
just sorting and cleaning up the harness. This new harness would have been an easier solution . Great work you have done on this whole job. The suggestion to use fusible links was needed ,
Other videos I have seen don't stress that at all ! Thanks a lot . I look forward to your next video. Dan Clayton , N Y
Thanks, hope it helped!
Yes I have a Siberian Husky and a German Sheppard that runs his trap just as much lol.
Huskies are the BEST! Well other than tumbleweeds of fur LOL.
Thanks for this.. I picked up what appears to be the exact same harness... every single thing matches up with what you show. The paperwork and everything is the same. On the fuse box cover is "JDMSPEED Interchange 4L60E DBC 202312." I searched that number and found it... I've gone through your entire video and did everything you directed. Much appreciated...Hope to try it this weekend. Going to shoot you a thank you $$..
Thank you and thank you for watching 👍
@@rust_hoarder_garage I unlocked the pcm.. threw the harness on... and have some sort of issue.. it fires up and dies within seconds.. almost as if VATS is still on... but swapped the pcm into my 70 Nova LS swap.. and it ran.. So.. I know the PCM is unlocked... I'm getting a 5v ref error P0122 code. the only one... I've verified with a meter back to the pcm on 2 of the three wires on the TPS.. but the ground I've not confirmed yet.. Hoping it's just a bad TPS or ground on it..
Either way.. your video and diligence to go through and verify are and were extremely helpful... when I get this thing running.. I'll update.. I'm just running it on the stand at this point. I also meant to mention that the paperwork with mine lists all the sensors needed.. oddly it lists an oil pressure sensor.. I've not seen a standalone harness that uses that... I have a gauge on mine..
Thanks again!
First off, the paperwork is usually garbage and does not match the harness. If the MAP sensor is not working or scaled wrong it will act as if VATS is on, same thing can happen with the MAF. I would verify every wire on the harness, if there is a swapped wire on the MAP or MAF sensor it can fry the sensor. This assumes your fuel system is working, injectors are good and not sticking, and as a sanity check a NOID light will tell you if the PCM is shutting down the injector signals. Others have found that the MAP sensor signal wire was tied to a 12v line on a harness that was made for the manual transmission, this will certainly fry the MAP sensor.
@@rust_hoarder_garage Appreciate that insight. I've not used a NOID light, yet. But the injectors are new...I have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up and all is good there..
I have the MAF hooked up as well.. I'll check that MAP sensor signal wire as well... One thing of note.. when it fires up.. the longest it has ran is about 3-4 seconds (DBC by the way) it runs at quite a high idle speed. Given a replacement TPS was relatively inexpensive... I'm going to throw one on there and see if that P0122 code resolves, as well.
Thanks again for the insight and responses.. I'm sure like many of us, you've got lots going on!
I would put a cheap scanner on it and look at the TPS position being read before replacement and check every wire back to the PCM if it is not responding to movement. Verify the signal wire is not tied to 12v by checking continuity back to all of the fuses, there should be none. Also, if this is a DBC engine you don't have the EGR port open on the front right side of the intake, correct? If the engine was an early one with EGR it will have a huge vacuum leak with that port open. As far as being busy there aren't enough hours in the day.
I have the same harness did same changes and the tack wire wasn’t hooked up to 12v either. Good stuff brother
Thanks for watching and good luck with the swap!
I just purchased this harness, thank you for this video
Glad I could help!
Have a link by chance to the harness
I do not on this one, but I put a picture of the auction in the video. There is no manufacturer name.
All good. I believe I found the same one but at $125. Can’t find one at $84, I tried filtering by lowest price first and couldn’t find one at that price point. Not that price is a huge issue. But it could also be in your video at the time posting they were sold out
I did a quick search and found this one for $80, looks similar, could be the same harness by another seller.
www.ebay.com/itm/386189200879?hash=item59eaab8def:g:bmsAAOSw6~NlMhiB&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4AmoEZe5GinLMaKb6kYpnVkMVCYzuDxjW8r1X3u0zapF4FUgC0kV%2FJr1Vhdlg%2F1zjw%2BV7usNME4yH8B9aSRmC6tqNzgkHJPgmVXHoVGPf%2Fo%2FasBqfUyxgWYiVote1a1gcpb5dticPAimBg1qGKa6vPfX6GMt2uXolxUb3bay5%2F7y1wjVlNuyr5MwBRlj5cMqMghPJ2chUJv%2Ba2PS2XpGJp%2BzBWaXeoDENd2vxoGJnhfkOdFm4%2FzqmV8kuZek0jk5VGdIdg8fWhTLpHp9iNnp1MloUHw4e333mpA86bYeuiKS%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5bg_eGuYw
Myself I think I like the JY Performance harness better, felt like better quality and comes with the injector adapters.
www.ebay.com/itm/265573621581?hash=item3dd56bdf4d&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8O0fvVkRNiwSLcd9yyqpl2b0wtqFEvWawqXion5F0FpgDtBHwFHft7hACYDka2BnaQXVMhf6CUz7iX2F5qGuTrN%252FzdlvbF0PnOJIkjoJ2bE6G8gK5Wd7gBd9MWXt4ysKsXKjXy9XTLlHg%252FDzQFRBxGmr3eepHVI3e91w%252FMMy3R6sW1IWU3FyPYqX1bZC%252B69ubampLTAXwKmsPEAPOCgmJtBlQuiY4P48K3hyjflpEFNoC%252Bh0MRKk5wWX%252ByIgayx7dRnJQc1rKYyAKL29QZh5lhMCiIEgobxTF2eZWygHHmgUYu8%252BAM3qAwK0vKR80inHBA%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK
I'm in the middle of stuffing a 02 LM7 into my 94 S10. I'm keeping the motor stock and am using the factory wiring harness. You can remove all the wires you're not using, but you do not have to. I did not modify the harness at all except for a couple wires by the factory fuse block. Not sure why more people do not use the factory harness. Typically is about free and is factory quality over China junk.
Very true, I made my own harnesses for years. Thing is with the trucks I have found that most of the factory harnesses I have removed have corroded wires at the PCM connection because of where the PCM is mounted, in the north east the winters are tough on trucks. That plus the cost of a relay/fuse box, having the PCM leads already long enough to run into the car, and the time savings make a $100 harness an easy choice for me. So far I have had no issues with my ebay JY Performance harnesses and have already bought 6 more. In the end it is up to you what you decide to use.
@rust_hoarder_garage donor for my swap used to be my daily driver. Still ran and drove great but chunks of the frame were falling off.
I really do watch and am learning a lot from your videos. Gotta ask any chance of sharing the part number for this harness it seems to be blured out? I have to get my 2nd truck up and running before my trusty current truck goes down. I'm between a rock and a hard place literally. Thanks again
Sorry if it is blurry, I did not intentionally blur anything out, I just took the picture of the ebay auction. The harness is listed an unbranded, no part number or any information came with it. Myself I would buy the ebay JY performance harness that came with the free injector adapters and change the MAF sensor connector to the truck style. Still need to repin it to make it match up to the Vortec prints but I liked that harness better.
Great video however I would like to know the part number for the O2 sensors that are case grounded that you personally are using. There are too many options and I need to not revisit them later! Thank you so much
For case grounded O2 sensors I use 2000 Z28 LS1 sensors, they will have the correct black 4 pin connector for the DBC harnesses. This particular harness I do not plan on using on a car, it just feels much cheaper than the Ebay JY Performance harnesses I have used. The JYs are about $100 shipped so still cheap and I think are a better quality harness. I am running the JY DBC harness that I re-pinned on video to match the Vortec prints with the case grounded O2s on my 55 turbo Buick.
my wires wer the same as you said so i made the changes and still running. rich and black smoke, i think i gotta check over my 02s or something, i got the ones suggested on the instructions.....
Have to scan the car when running and look at the data. Running rich enough to make black smoke is more common to be a temperature sensor issue than O2s, assuming the tune is good.
@@rust_hoarder_garage I’ll have to check into that thanks
@@rust_hoarder_garage I got no 02 sensor readings….
Did you check every wire on the harness for pin location? Are you using 2000 z28 case grounded O2 sensors with square black connectors?
@@rust_hoarder_garage I went thru em but I wasn’t sure what wires are signal, low and high reference to match em to pins on ecu…
Great video. I have a harness very similar. It helped me greatly. I am working on first 5.3 vortex swap. Trying start on engine stand. Could you explain what’s needed to hook up starter and grounds needed to start? Or would you prefer DM or email to detail steps? Thanks for the help.
Thank you, this video is for a different brand harness but the steps are similar
th-cam.com/video/cY-0iY9VjEk/w-d-xo.html
@@rust_hoarder_garage Thank you. Very informative. I couldn’t tell from the video, Did you run the wire straight from starter to positive post on Battery? Also, do I need to hook up a ground for the starter to the ground post on the battery also? If so do you have any videos of that? Thanks.
starter is not part of the wiring harness, I am using a remote starter switch. Battery positive to the starter lug, battery negative to the engine block, starter switch connects between the starter main lug where the battery connects and the starter small solenoid terminal.
@@rust_hoarder_garage Thank you. In another video you said you used 2000 z28 Camaro o2 sensors. I have the square connectors on my harness also. Should I buy the Camaro o2 sensors as well?
If you are using this harness or one that is wired for case grounded O2 sensors, then yes, you want 2000 Z28 O2 sensors. They will have the black 4 pin square connector that matches the harness.
I currently have a 99-02 dbc harness except for t56 would your under dash bundle match up with mine if not how would i go about finding out love the videos great info
I can’t say, I have not bought a T56 harness yet, if you use a meter and the the pcm pinout list you can confirm it.
Mine keeps popping the 10 amp fuse soon as hook up battery any help
good stuff!
Thank you!
Built on a budget sent me
Cool if you like low budget builds it is all I do!
Why are the Amazon pics show the injector plugs in numerical order and not firing order. Have you gone through the injector wiring? Do these (injector wires) need to be rewired?
Because the pictures are not accurate, all information is in the video including an injector layout defect.
@@rust_hoarder_garage the video is awesome thank you. I kept having a cylinder fill with fuel so I’m assuming it was wired wrong which caused a misfire and hydro lock. After a small fire I ordered another one and this time I’ll take your advice and bug the whole thing.
Thanks again.
bug the whole thing out and verify no injector signal wires are tied to ground. Myself I would not buy another one of this particular harness, I prefer the ones made by JY Performance on Ebay. Still have to go through them but the quality seems much better. Bench test your injectors as well, I now do it with every engine that has sat idle for over 6 months, I lost an engine from a stuck open injector as well. I have videos showing how I bench test them.
@@rust_hoarder_garage thanks, I appreciate it.
Great vid! Where on the harness is a good place to solder in those fused links 30 amp 10g wire???
Thanks
I would use crimp style butt splices with heat shrink style insulation right at the wires where they connect to the starter lug.
Do have any recommendation on the brand or type that would be good. I have a couple of these but this style is not waterproof.
Thank you for sharing your time and knowledge on these subjects.
They are the type that you access the fuse by popping the top off with a 10 amp primary wire. 30 Amps.
That is an inline fuse, not a fuseable link. A fuseable link is a short length of sacrificial wire that will melt like a fuse if the wire is shorted, GM used them for years on the power leads that fed the car. There are pre-cut lengths of it on Amazon. You could use an inline fuse instead as long as it is mounted somewhere out of the weather.
Thanks, I have never had to change one of these things on any car or truck. I saw some with the ends on them and some is just wire. My research says that if you have a 10gauge wire it is recommended to use a wire 14g.
So the JY Performance harnesses are good? Do You Recommend?
Mine have been working fine, I would recommend them. It is still a low dollar harness so I would check every wire for correct location and check for the ALDL 12v hot being tied to the tach wire. PCM and fuse box should be mounted inside the car, the connectors are not weather tight. Drive by cable harness is built to the LS1 print which I re-pin when using a truck engine and tune, still worth it and I would never spend $500 for anyone’s harness.
@rust_hoarder_garage Thanks alot, i appreciate it... Im going to get one then! I have a truck engine also, 5.3 LM7... Where did you get the information for the Pin color locations...
wire colors may not be the same as GM on the cheap harnesses, but the pinouts need to be, they are listed on LT1swap.com
Question.
Would it be possible to use a vortec engine ecu and flash it to a camaro bin and not have to Rewire it? Or would it still need to be Rewired?
Sure, if I were using an LS1 tune I would leave the wiring pinned to the LS1 print. I would still check every wire in the harness for problems before use.
Im installing a dbc conversion hpi harness for a gen 3 4.8l/4l60e in my squarebody gmc. Im about to start wiring it to power tomorrow. Im dumb with wiring, do you have a video of installing it? Im adding a couple relays for the fans and derale trans cooler.
I have not gone over a plug by plug install yet, but I have gone over the connections. I have an engine I plan on starting on a stand, and can do a plug by plug install video, but it won’t be for at least a couple weeks.
@@rust_hoarder_garage I mean wiring up the under dash stuff and relays.
I have gone over the ebay LS harness relay wiring in the 51 Hudson first start video, and have gone over relays for single speed and dual speed fans, as well as fuel pump controls all in different videos. Lots of information in multiple videos, more than just what the titles list.
thanks for sharing new sub
Thank you and thanks for the sub!
Did the trans plug have to be rewired on this harness?
I don't think so, I would of mentioned it in the video since I checked every wire. I still have this one in a box, have not installed it on anything yet. I have an engine that I am going to start on the stand soon so I think I will use the harness then.
Thanks for the reply. I just purchased this harness. I could not find the jy harness anywhere. I followed your repinning and fixes. Hope everything works out. For sure beats reworking a factory harness.
Should work fine after a repin and check every wire for position to be safe. From what I remember that one had one of the alternator wires in a wrong PCM pin location and an injector connector was laid out in the wrong place.
What’s the link to this harness this is the one I need lol
Myself I would not use this harness, too many things wrong with it, and it felt cheap compared to the JY Performance harness I reviewed in the other video. Both are from Ebay.
All my harness plugs were also keyed differently so all the truck sensors would not plug in... Chinese crap. I threw mine in the trash & am going to use a stock truck harness.
If it was one of these exact harnesses it is possible since I have not installed it on an engine to verify the connectors yet. I didn't like the way this one was compared to the others I have used off Ebay made by JY Performance. The JY harnesses felt like better-quality and are working well. Neither are the same quality as OEM, use whatever works best for you.
@@rust_hoarder_garage I would be curious to see if the sensor connectors on yours are different also. Mine isn't the exact same seller, but is built just like that one with the dual MAF connectors. My engine and sensors are from 2003 LQ4.
I will have to see, I may use the harness on a run stand, but it just felt like too low of a quality to use on one of the builds. I don't like the dual MAF sensor connectors and the whole thing just felt cheap. Also it is set up for a 1999-2002 drive by cable setup, so if you have a 2003 it should be drive by wire unless it came from an express van as far as I know. Not sure if that is why you ran into different connector types, but I will know when I try it on an 02 or older setup. The 2003 engine I used in the 1951 Hudson build is running drive by wire and a JY Performance harness.
really, it is confused
Needed work but fixable.