Hey everyone. No I didn’t knurl it. It’s absolutely completely unnecessary on something of this diameter. Knurling where it isn’t absolutely necessary is annoying because it is hard on the fingers and gets dirty. Knurl yours if you like. Me no like. No need to keep commenting on that.
I fully understand that, having cleaned a pound of vintage grime out of 50-70 year old knobs on old electronics. With you know what disgusting stuff in it. At least denture cleaner helps here.. Looks nice, though. If you never ever touch it, that is.
You so smart! You anticipated my comment, sigh, and it was gonna be [one of] my 1st comment (s). Great job. Love your channel! Not a machinist, but my grandfather was an engineer with Martin (before Lockheed!) and had a home shop filled with Craftsman™ machines. I wonder how they'd stack up against affordable Asian machines of today. Sadly he passed long before I had even a clue what machining was... sometimes I get a little misty watching you and thinking, "if I only knew then, what I'm learning now. " 😢 Thanks again
@@mattrahmanI actually did a video on that exact topic a while back. I think it’s in my Absolute Beginner’s series, but I don’t recall for sure. I compare the value for money of a 1965 Bridgeport, a modern Asian machine, and a 1965 Southbend hobby lathe. The TL;DW is that (correcting for inflation) the old Southbend (or Atlas, Craftsman, etc) is about the same price as current Asian machines but actually less well made and vastly fewer features. That’s not to say those old machines aren’t wonderful. They are great, and one should use what one gets the most joy from. But the facts are pretty clear on what you spend and what you get (got).
Just checked and it is indeed the first video in my Absolute Beginner’s playlist is where I did the deep dive on the value proposition of Asian hobby machines compared to vintage American options.
Yup, was going to ask about knurling 😄😄😄 If you don't like knurls, you could do what they did on the original knob and cut recesses around the outside. A round nose bit and a hex block could make it look right nice 😋
The fact that you went back and fixed the off-center dish detail on the crank handle made me SO HAPPY. Literally no one would notice it in operation, but it would have kept us all awake at night.
Quinn: can I just say (because we do become accustomed to such good work) THANK YOU - it’s easy to forget how much work goes into these superb, GENEROUS, healing, relaxing, informative, inspiring videos…so I offer you 🌺 and lifelong thanks.❤
Is it weird that I have never touched a lather or milling machine and still watch every video? Its fun to learn how this stuff is made even if I wont do it myself.
I _hadn't_ ever touched a machine tool until I found this channel. Now I have a small 8x16 lathe, and it's safe to say I learned to use it almost entirely from Quinn's videos 👍 Just last week I hit my first dimensions to within a few hundredths of a millimeter. It feels exactly as good as Quinn makes it look! 😊
One use at school in 1984 - made a nice aluminium and brass dice/holder - then nothing more. So no, I don’t think it’s weird at all. I’ve watched every episode as well and most times on the day of release.
Me, too. To the best of my knowledge, I’ve never been in the same room of any of this gear at any scale. I am confident that they would recognize me for the cower I am and kill me on sight.
Not weird at all, these are just great videos! I'm on the other end of the spectrum, I do this stuff for a living and I still watch these every Saturday!
I want to say that I really appreciate your putting the “why” into these videos. Even if I never make a crank handle, some day that idea of drilling deeper for a set screw so it can drive with something other than friction will be valuable.
@@seananderson5850I have nothing but praise for Matt and the crew at Precision Matthews. Any time I have had an issue, they were prompt in getting back to me with a fix, whether a part was faulty or something that needed adjustment. I purchased one of their 12X36 lathes as well as a bench top mill, the model Quinn had before the new one.
@@seananderson5850 I needed a replacement set of bolts to mount a 4 jaw chuck on my lathe. I had the chuck for more than a year before needing it on the lathe (beginner) so I did not notice the missing hardware until I needed the chuck. Sent an email to Precision Mathews to get the specs and order the part and they just shipped me the bolts. Sure they were just bolts but they responded so quickly I was happy. I am very happy with my Lathe (PM1340GT) and Mill (PM835) several years later...
@@robertoswalt319 same here. I have a 1236. There were some issues, PM (Matt) were nothing but pleasant, reasonable and accommodating. Would buy from them again 12/10.
I felt that screw drop deep, deep in my soul. When I need one screw I buy or make 4, because I will drop and forever lose at least one, but sometimes two and rarely three of the bastards. I just consider it to be Metallicor's share of the project. He demands blood and swarf and fasteners and will not be content until He receives what He is owed.
I have an RF40 clone from now gone House of Tools. The gears were really hard to change, eventually I tore it down and found sand in the gearbox, gears were not hardened and obviously at one point not properly engaged and the teeth deformed. I gambled and got the replacement gears from Grizzly tools, because the machines looked similar and had the same tooth count. I was pleasantly surprised to find the new gears were case hardened! All the shafts and keyways needed major deburring, and the bearings all replaced with precision Japanese manufactured precision bearings. It now it runs like a dream.
A feature I've been putting on my knobs is a shallow o-ring groove for a fat o'ring. Then I can kinda roll my hand on it for faster smooth feed. Also helps with that slow hand over hand motion two hand smooth feeding.
That was a tricky piece of fault analysis and I struggled initially to picture what the issue was. Excellent video as always and the new fine feed handle is really classy.
I have replaced the crank wheel on my mill too and I added a spinner handle as well. Here's a tip for using it going down in Z, when you are cranking down on the crank wheel, use light pressure from your other hand on the larger drilling handle to counteract the spring force. You can turn the crank wheel very smoothly then. As you said, going up is not a problem. Nice video!
I have it on good authority you can find pristine Bridgeports, Deckels, and Schaublins for bargain basement prices in the aisle over from the unicorn saddles. Free shipping too.
You came to mind today while i was touring a boat that had Calliopes. One was air driven and one was steam driven. Both used MIDIs to do the music. He had installed a rather large (maybe 6-7 feet long) Cleaver-Brooks oil fired boiler into his boat. The roof swings back and he attaches a chimney to use it. Even with the roof open it gets around 90F. inside. It is so loud that he needs both foam ear plugs and ear muffs. He said that one note from the lowest whistle costs $1.50, so a rather large carbon footprint to play it. . I love seeing peoples passions..
Excellent problem analysis and solution. I'm always impressed by your knowledge, skill and problem-solving. Intelligence plus experience equals a fine machinist.
Top report and I agree completely with you about Asian machines. Love the carbide rounding-over-bit tip as well. Every time I watch your movies I learn something new.
Another awesome project Quinn! I really appreciate that you clearly spent a good deal of time working to correct something you felt was deficient with your machine, even though it technically still “worked.” I catch crap all the time for trying to improve the operation of my tools and shop even though things “work” but no one seems to understand that you can accomplish so much more when you enjoy what you’re doing (and can do it efficiently/effectively)and for that things need to do more than just “work.” Anyway, I relinquish my soapbox now. Thanks for all that you do Quinn!
I’ve been watching your channel for years and the scale of the parts you usually make didn’t hit me until you said “M6”. Everything snapped into proper perspective in a “Whoa….” moment. Precision and craftsmanship you’re achieving on these scales is insane! ❤
I always learn something I can use in my shop from these videos. Since I work on much larger parts and have the room, the shop is filled with good used machines including a Rockwell Mill that is about 2/3 the size of a Bridgeport, highly prized by home machinist. For a small shop those small import machines are the way to go.
Sweet. I have a Tormach 440 at the moment and love what it can do and the things I have learned. That being said, I intend entirely on purchasing a Precision Matthews benchtop mill and lathe as additions to my tiny shop. I love their quality for the price and footprint and some jobs are just manual jobs. I love it!
I work on arcade an amusement games and sometimes our giant claw machines and other games have a cheaky double set screw hidden somewhere. It's not consistent, so it's an important lesson to learn before struggling with a gear puller and making a mess of the shaft.... :D
I have an experiment for you if you would like to try it. By putting a small pin in the gear tooth running the shaft between centers you can check the run out to the gear in relationship to the body dia, There can be run out between the gear and the shaft. A .100" pin if it fits to the crown clearly into the tooth will give you gear run out to the shaft. this is caused when the shaft is not indicated in to the hob when the gear is cut.
Doubling up set screws is fairly common in manufacturing as well. After you've been called out to the same machine 6 times in one night because the infeed table height hand wheel came off you'll throw a second set screw behind it so your radio finally shuts up for 5 minutes.
Just a thought, and probably more trouble than it’s worth, but would some sort of slide out or flip up/out handle work to increase the effective radius and mechanical advantage to make it better overcome the return spring force for use in boring operations? Or maybe just a spin handle on a bar that could be inserted in the edge of the wheel and held with a little thumb screw. These would obscure the DRO window a bit, but maybe not so much as to be a problem.
Quinn, I enjoy your videos! You explain so clearly and with a touch of fun - you are a good instructor. I was thinking when you were testing the initial runout that the centre holes on the shafts were not exactly centred to explain the runout error but you ended up covering that. Thanks!
Great video, thank you. I am considering improving my similar Mills’ Knob too, but may opt to add either a drive socket or spigot on it to allow me to use my cordless drill as a power downfeed whilst using my boring bar occasionally, just a thought…
Always find your videos interesting... My mill is a Hafco Metalmaster, made in China, and it is surprisingly well made. My fine feed is more off to one side of the quill axis and has a rather nice adjustable-for-zero graduated scale on the hand wheel as is common on lathes. I've had it for some years now and it has proven to be accurate and reliable. It did cost $3500NZ and is now listed at $1000 dollars more (inflation). It could be a bench machine but it came with a stand and coolant system built in which is nice to have.... I plan to plumb that system for the old Boxford Model "A" lathe that sits by the side of it in the shop. The lathe has proper provision for drainage already built in so it should be just a valve or two and some tubing. One of those jobs that need me to find my "round tuit"... :-)
We're in a beautiful point in time where companies are making tools for non-professionals, even down to small equipment We're not forced to buy the tool that would last years for someone using it day in day out, but instead budget items for folks who would use it intermittently, that'll last years in their hands too!
Good on Precision Matthews for switching out the shaft. The knob you made, however, is both better-looking, and probably feels better, than the factory original. 👍
Thank you so much for sharing the teardown and repair. We have had exactly the same binding issue on our PM728 quill. Now I feel confident tackling it (well, asking the boss if I can take it apart😊).
The cheap Asian made machinery has been amazing for the hobbyist, before these machines were available the model engineer normally had to do all their milling on the lathe which would normally be a Myford, Southbend or similar machine and they would usually have had to build most of the tooling as well as there was relatively little available and it was expensive. Currently its a great time to be a home based machinist, we have the Internet for spreading knowledge and information quickly and easily, cost effective imported machinery and tooling, cheap used industrial machinery because of the decline of industry and its move to almost all CNC based.
Cheap milling machines have been around since the late 70's/early 80's at least. I have one from then, many people do. A company called Rong Fu builds them in various guises, RF25, RF30 etc, actually pretty good machines and one my Father acquired for model engineering himself. I believe you can pick up an RF25 nowadays for less than £2k or thereabouts new. Not quite as large as Quinn's, but the table on mine is deeper in the Y axis so allows for more flexibility in hold down options on larger parts like road wheels for traction engines and steam rollers etc. I know these weren't particularly expensive machines to buy new as lots were used in colleges in the 80's and 90's as training machines which is where he got his from (and worked at teaching people how to use them.) I don't mean to be contrary to you for the sake of it, my point is that although they were available the internet has made them far more accessible to a much greater extent to many more people that otherwise would not have had access to, or knowledge of, them and that can only be a good thing for all of us... but they were out there. lol
Hi Quinn, Great repair Job. I have to say, I’m not sure I would have ever figured it out. I’m thinking about getting a Mill just like the one you have, so if it has the same problem, I know what it is. 😁👍👍
I bought a used table saw and it came with a plywood "knob" for adjusting the height of the blade. When that failed, I made a better metal one, and it was so much better just as a flat wheel, that I did give in to the temptation and "leave it right there" for a few years. But one day I was cleaning the shop and getting ready to toss out some junk, when I realized this junk could be combined to make a speed handle for that knob. It made a big difference.
I have a bunch of slightly sketchy router bits from my dead tree carcass mutilation adventures - never thought to use them on the mill! That's awesome! Totally using that.
Nice. It's so cool that you show us how stuff works. Wow, didn't that sound sophisticated. Oh well. Hey, did you think about knurling the... Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Quinn, I had a problem with a mill purchased from Precision Matthew. And they were very helpful in trying to correct the problem. Matt and his tech support guys are very pleasant to work with. They sent me any parts that were defective to try and resolve the issue. I think PM sent you that mill for free. I think your mill has a 5 year warranty. If it's Taiwan made. It's unfortunate that you have to fix it yourself with the replacement parts.
This particular mill has a 5yr warranty. They do that on their "ultra precision" items. Not because they're made in taiwan, but because the ultra precision ones also have nicer guts like ground gears. The more robust parts allow them to warranty the machine for longer. The normal PM taiwanese machines have a 3yr warranty.
Big Thanks for all tips. I wait for this moment every week...... Keep the 3D drawing in the upper corner, good for understand the movement (EMCO unimat 3) Gratings from Sweden.
I gotta say it speaks well to Precision Matthews that despite the critiques they keep supporting you in that style. Good on them, and good on you for not whitewashing!
maybe a radial pattern of slots or cutout features to aid in whole hand grippiness, love the project as always, your workflow is extremely easy to watch and learn from. Cheers!
Giggling aside, another thing the import machines give is standardization; accessories that fit many machines makes for better price and selection for them.
Quinn, my PM-728 Is five digits higher than yours, so probably built in the same run. My fine feed has always been smooth, so it does sounds like an issue with the shafts in yours. I like your idea for a larger wheel, so I think I'll be doing the same soon.
Around 16:00 : Freaking THANK YOU. Every time I hear "Cheap Chinese blah blah blah", I cringe and usually correct it. These machines are wonders and I'm so glad I live in an era where I can buy $17 stepper motors, $2000 mills, etc. The amount of ingenuity required to hit the capability vs cost is impressive to say the least.
Quinn, what about trying to three point shim stock into the feed knob front support bushing and see if it helps, does nothing, or ties up the system? Trace up what you can get out of a piece of flat stock and cut it out then slide the little legs down between the shaft and the bore.
Amazing how different the different models are. My PM-727V had a knob similar to the one you made with a spinner handle as well as a constant force quill spring. Also, the clutch for the fine feed engage felt like it was toothed not friction drive.
I have the same mill, but got mine a year or two earlier than you. Mine came with a nicer wheel for the fine feed. It looks like the clutch knob, only much larger diameter. Luckily mine hasn't had any of the issues yours had (yet).
Nice fix Quin. I have big brother to this mill. It has the same head, but with the knee instead of the column adjustment. I will be looking out for these issues.
Love that handle, makes the mill look twice as fancy ;) Regarding Chinese stuff: I lately almost exclusive get that stuff for electronic test and measurement equipment, also at work .. for exactly the same reason. For what that stuff costs, it is plain and simply amazing. Yes, the software and UI tend to be a little bit clunky and not quite as polished than the big western brands .. but they cost a third or even less. And many of the features that are options with the big name brands and tend to double the price are included in the base package. And yes, people using 100k equipment (they didn't pay for, of course) give me a bad time about it. Those brands have learned though .. they now sometimes sell the same thing, with their label stuck to it. I obviously won't name any company here, but anyone who is even remotely in the business knows which brands I'm referring to.
People underestimate how much stuff cost to make when they look at used machines. For example a Deckel S1 grinder which people say about that it is built extremely sturdy for what it does cost about as much in the 60s as one to one and a half single family homes.
Quinn, I love your content and anxiously await each new posting. As to this episode, would it have helped to set the shafts up concentrically and recut the centerers? then the rest of the features could be inspected on a true running shaft. I'm a recently "semi" retired machinist and have been fixing my mistakes for over 50 years.
Looks and seams to work great Quinn, thanks for sharing this upgrade video. 25:17, yes it is a bit longer than your some of your videos. That's great customer service from Precision Matthews, kind of too bad the replacement ?fine feed? shaft is just going to sit in your drawer rather than theirs.
I didn't think about knurling, (so thank you for the comment.) I did wonder about exposed aluminium transferring Al'oxide "dirt" to your hands or gloves while you turn it - would a quick powder coat (when I are next doing that) help prevent the wheel "painting" your fingers black?
Hey everyone. No I didn’t knurl it. It’s absolutely completely unnecessary on something of this diameter. Knurling where it isn’t absolutely necessary is annoying because it is hard on the fingers and gets dirty. Knurl yours if you like. Me no like. No need to keep commenting on that.
I fully understand that, having cleaned a pound of vintage grime out of 50-70 year old knobs on old electronics. With you know what disgusting stuff in it.
At least denture cleaner helps here..
Looks nice, though. If you never ever touch it, that is.
You so smart! You anticipated my comment, sigh, and it was gonna be [one of] my 1st comment (s).
Great job. Love your channel! Not a machinist, but my grandfather was an engineer with Martin (before Lockheed!) and had a home shop filled with Craftsman™ machines. I wonder how they'd stack up against affordable Asian machines of today. Sadly he passed long before I had even a clue what machining was... sometimes I get a little misty watching you and thinking, "if I only knew then, what I'm learning now. " 😢
Thanks again
@@mattrahmanI actually did a video on that exact topic a while back. I think it’s in my Absolute Beginner’s series, but I don’t recall for sure. I compare the value for money of a 1965 Bridgeport, a modern Asian machine, and a 1965 Southbend hobby lathe. The TL;DW is that (correcting for inflation) the old Southbend (or Atlas, Craftsman, etc) is about the same price as current Asian machines but actually less well made and vastly fewer features. That’s not to say those old machines aren’t wonderful. They are great, and one should use what one gets the most joy from. But the facts are pretty clear on what you spend and what you get (got).
Just checked and it is indeed the first video in my Absolute Beginner’s playlist is where I did the deep dive on the value proposition of Asian hobby machines compared to vintage American options.
Yup, was going to ask about knurling 😄😄😄
If you don't like knurls, you could do what they did on the original knob and cut recesses around the outside. A round nose bit and a hex block could make it look right nice 😋
The fact that you went back and fixed the off-center dish detail on the crank handle made me SO HAPPY. Literally no one would notice it in operation, but it would have kept us all awake at night.
Quinn: can I just say (because we do become accustomed to such good work) THANK YOU - it’s easy to forget how much work goes into these superb, GENEROUS, healing, relaxing, informative, inspiring videos…so I offer you 🌺 and lifelong thanks.❤
Is it weird that I have never touched a lather or milling machine and still watch every video? Its fun to learn how this stuff is made even if I wont do it myself.
I _hadn't_ ever touched a machine tool until I found this channel. Now I have a small 8x16 lathe, and it's safe to say I learned to use it almost entirely from Quinn's videos 👍
Just last week I hit my first dimensions to within a few hundredths of a millimeter. It feels exactly as good as Quinn makes it look! 😊
Same here!👊
One use at school in 1984 - made a nice aluminium and brass dice/holder - then nothing more. So no, I don’t think it’s weird at all. I’ve watched every episode as well and most times on the day of release.
Me, too. To the best of my knowledge, I’ve never been in the same room of any of this gear at any scale. I am confident that they would recognize me for the cower I am and kill me on sight.
Not weird at all, these are just great videos! I'm on the other end of the spectrum, I do this stuff for a living and I still watch these every Saturday!
Literally a third of my working day is fixing things so that I can use the things that I just fixed to fix something. Bravo!
I want to say that I really appreciate your putting the “why” into these videos. Even if I never make a crank handle, some day that idea of drilling deeper for a set screw so it can drive with something other than friction will be valuable.
Glad you got a handle on the problem.
As Quinn would say: 🤦♀
ISWYDT 😂
Fair play to Precision Matthews for sending the replacement shafts
Do you think they would send such perfect parts to us "normal" people too?
@@seananderson5850I have nothing but praise for Matt and the crew at Precision Matthews. Any time I have had an issue, they were prompt in getting back to me with a fix, whether a part was faulty or something that needed adjustment.
I purchased one of their 12X36 lathes as well as a bench top mill, the model Quinn had before the new one.
Quinn's stuff has made them a lot of money. 🧐🧐🧐
@@seananderson5850 I needed a replacement set of bolts to mount a 4 jaw chuck on my lathe. I had the chuck for more than a year before needing it on the lathe (beginner) so I did not notice the missing hardware until I needed the chuck. Sent an email to Precision Mathews to get the specs and order the part and they just shipped me the bolts. Sure they were just bolts but they responded so quickly I was happy. I am very happy with my Lathe (PM1340GT) and Mill (PM835) several years later...
@@robertoswalt319 same here. I have a 1236. There were some issues, PM (Matt) were nothing but pleasant, reasonable and accommodating. Would buy from them again 12/10.
Excellent problem solving on this issue!
I felt that screw drop deep, deep in my soul. When I need one screw I buy or make 4, because I will drop and forever lose at least one, but sometimes two and rarely three of the bastards.
I just consider it to be Metallicor's share of the project. He demands blood and swarf and fasteners and will not be content until He receives what He is owed.
😂👍
My theory is to buy at least 3. One to use, one to lose and one for the shed.
And don't get me started on losing those pesky washers in placed that are near impossible to reach.
My dad once said, “Figure out how things work, then figure out how to fix them.” Wise words, and you just demonstrated it!
Gotta love the ocean sounds setting. I always half-expect to hear a seagull or two whenever I turn mine on.
I have an RF40 clone from now gone House of Tools. The gears were really hard to change, eventually I tore it down and found sand in the gearbox, gears were not hardened and obviously at one point not properly engaged and the teeth deformed. I gambled and got the replacement gears from Grizzly tools, because the machines looked similar and had the same tooth count. I was pleasantly surprised to find the new gears were case hardened! All the shafts and keyways needed major deburring, and the bearings all replaced with precision Japanese manufactured precision bearings. It now it runs like a dream.
I love your subtle sense of humour and your videos. Thanks for the many years of interesting videos
Ocean vs Screech setting on the lathe 👍
I give you serious props for the way you logically stepped through everything to determine the issue. It's definitely not immediately obvious
A feature I've been putting on my knobs is a shallow o-ring groove for a fat o'ring. Then I can kinda roll my hand on it for faster smooth feed. Also helps with that slow hand over hand motion two hand smooth feeding.
That was a tricky piece of fault analysis and I struggled initially to picture what the issue was. Excellent video as always and the new fine feed handle is really classy.
I have replaced the crank wheel on my mill too and I added a spinner handle as well. Here's a tip for using it going down in Z, when you are cranking down on the crank wheel, use light pressure from your other hand on the larger drilling handle to counteract the spring force. You can turn the crank wheel very smoothly then. As you said, going up is not a problem. Nice video!
That’s a good tip!
I have it on good authority you can find pristine Bridgeports, Deckels, and Schaublins for bargain basement prices in the aisle over from the unicorn saddles. Free shipping too.
Is that right next to the massless beams and frictionless surfaces? Next aisle over from the turboencabulators?
Hey Quinn, I love the pinned 3D CAD representation of what your machining. Nice touch.
You came to mind today while i was touring a boat that had Calliopes. One was air driven and one was steam driven. Both used MIDIs to do the music. He had installed a rather large (maybe 6-7 feet long) Cleaver-Brooks oil fired boiler into his boat. The roof swings back and he attaches a chimney to use it. Even with the roof open it gets around 90F. inside. It is so loud that he needs both foam ear plugs and ear muffs. He said that one note from the lowest whistle costs $1.50, so a rather large carbon footprint to play it. . I love seeing peoples passions..
Excellent problem analysis and solution. I'm always impressed by your knowledge, skill and problem-solving. Intelligence plus experience equals a fine machinist.
Oh wow snap! I did this to my machine a month or so ago 🙂 Putting on the bigger wheel has made it much better for my aging hands.
Top report and I agree completely with you about Asian machines.
Love the carbide rounding-over-bit tip as well.
Every time I watch your movies I learn something new.
Another awesome project Quinn! I really appreciate that you clearly spent a good deal of time working to correct something you felt was deficient with your machine, even though it technically still “worked.” I catch crap all the time for trying to improve the operation of my tools and shop even though things “work” but no one seems to understand that you can accomplish so much more when you enjoy what you’re doing (and can do it efficiently/effectively)and for that things need to do more than just “work.” Anyway, I relinquish my soapbox now. Thanks for all that you do Quinn!
I’ve been watching your channel for years and the scale of the parts you usually make didn’t hit me until you said “M6”. Everything snapped into proper perspective in a “Whoa….” moment. Precision and craftsmanship you’re achieving on these scales is insane! ❤
Your opening reminded me of how I used to talk to myself when I was drinking!😂❤ never could quit until, you know, I quit.
Nice little project! I appreciate your perseverance and problem solving with the worm runout issue. Thanks for sharing!
The best thing about well fitted parts, is the plop it makes when taken apart.
Excellent video!
I ordered a PM-833TV largely because of your videos on this mill.
It just went out for delivery
😁
I always learn something I can use in my shop from these videos. Since I work on much larger parts and have the room, the shop is filled with good used machines including a Rockwell Mill that is about 2/3 the size of a Bridgeport, highly prized by home machinist. For a small shop those small import machines are the way to go.
Sweet. I have a Tormach 440 at the moment and love what it can do and the things I have learned. That being said, I intend entirely on purchasing a Precision Matthews benchtop mill and lathe as additions to my tiny shop. I love their quality for the price and footprint and some jobs are just manual jobs. I love it!
I work on arcade an amusement games and sometimes our giant claw machines and other games have a cheaky double set screw hidden somewhere. It's not consistent, so it's an important lesson to learn before struggling with a gear puller and making a mess of the shaft.... :D
I have an experiment for you if you would like to try it. By putting a small pin in the gear tooth running the shaft between centers you can check the run out to the gear in relationship to the body dia, There can be run out between the gear and the shaft. A .100" pin if it fits to the crown clearly into the tooth will give you gear run out to the shaft. this is caused when the shaft is not indicated in to the hob when the gear is cut.
Ratcheting die holder - very slick. Not seen before.
i love watchin things get improved
day by day i love watchin Quinn
Doubling up set screws is fairly common in manufacturing as well. After you've been called out to the same machine 6 times in one night because the infeed table height hand wheel came off you'll throw a second set screw behind it so your radio finally shuts up for 5 minutes.
Thanks for sharing this process with us Quinn, helps a lot!
Thank you Quinn. Now I know what's wrong with mine I can fix it thanks to your video!
Just a thought, and probably more trouble than it’s worth, but would some sort of slide out or flip up/out handle work to increase the effective radius and mechanical advantage to make it better overcome the return spring force for use in boring operations? Or maybe just a spin handle on a bar that could be inserted in the edge of the wheel and held with a little thumb screw. These would obscure the DRO window a bit, but maybe not so much as to be a problem.
I loved this video and especially your statement about Asian hobby mills
Quinn, I enjoy your videos! You explain so clearly and with a touch of fun - you are a good instructor.
I was thinking when you were testing the initial runout that the centre holes on the shafts were not exactly centred to explain the runout error but you ended up covering that.
Thanks!
Great video, thank you. I am considering improving my similar Mills’ Knob too, but may opt to add either a drive socket or spigot on it to allow me to use my cordless drill as a power downfeed whilst using my boring bar occasionally, just a thought…
Yay! It's Blondihacks time!!!
Super work!
I love how thin and delicate the narrow end on the spinner sleeve gets, but once its assembled you'd never know it. Beautiful.
Always find your videos interesting...
My mill is a Hafco Metalmaster, made in China, and it is surprisingly well made. My fine feed is more off to one side of the quill axis and has a rather nice adjustable-for-zero graduated scale on the hand wheel as is common on lathes. I've had it for some years now and it has proven to be accurate and reliable. It did cost $3500NZ and is now listed at $1000 dollars more (inflation). It could be a bench machine but it came with a stand and coolant system built in which is nice to have.... I plan to plumb that system for the old Boxford Model "A" lathe that sits by the side of it in the shop. The lathe has proper provision for drainage already built in so it should be just a valve or two and some tubing. One of those jobs that need me to find my "round tuit"... :-)
We're in a beautiful point in time where companies are making tools for non-professionals, even down to small equipment We're not forced to buy the tool that would last years for someone using it day in day out, but instead budget items for folks who would use it intermittently, that'll last years in their hands too!
Good on Precision Matthews for switching out the shaft. The knob you made, however, is both better-looking, and probably feels better, than the factory original. 👍
Thank you so much for sharing the teardown and repair. We have had exactly the same binding issue on our PM728 quill. Now I feel confident tackling it (well, asking the boss if I can take it apart😊).
The cheap Asian made machinery has been amazing for the hobbyist, before these machines were available the model engineer normally had to do all their milling on the lathe which would normally be a Myford, Southbend or similar machine and they would usually have had to build most of the tooling as well as there was relatively little available and it was expensive.
Currently its a great time to be a home based machinist, we have the Internet for spreading knowledge and information quickly and easily, cost effective imported machinery and tooling, cheap used industrial machinery because of the decline of industry and its move to almost all CNC based.
Cheap milling machines have been around since the late 70's/early 80's at least. I have one from then, many people do. A company called Rong Fu builds them in various guises, RF25, RF30 etc, actually pretty good machines and one my Father acquired for model engineering himself. I believe you can pick up an RF25 nowadays for less than £2k or thereabouts new. Not quite as large as Quinn's, but the table on mine is deeper in the Y axis so allows for more flexibility in hold down options on larger parts like road wheels for traction engines and steam rollers etc. I know these weren't particularly expensive machines to buy new as lots were used in colleges in the 80's and 90's as training machines which is where he got his from (and worked at teaching people how to use them.) I don't mean to be contrary to you for the sake of it, my point is that although they were available the internet has made them far more accessible to a much greater extent to many more people that otherwise would not have had access to, or knowledge of, them and that can only be a good thing for all of us... but they were out there. lol
For me the frustration of the oriental kit is that often they have made such a good job, to stumble on the last like bit is just a shame.
Thanks for the unit conversion!
Thank You Blondi - A pleasure as usual. And good to hear you cracking the whip on some of your cringy commenters!
Hi Quinn, Great repair Job. I have to say, I’m not sure I would have ever figured it out. I’m thinking about getting a Mill just like the one you have, so if it has the same problem, I know what it is. 😁👍👍
I bought a used table saw and it came with a plywood "knob" for adjusting the height of the blade. When that failed, I made a better metal one, and it was so much better just as a flat wheel, that I did give in to the temptation and "leave it right there" for a few years. But one day I was cleaning the shop and getting ready to toss out some junk, when I realized this junk could be combined to make a speed handle for that knob. It made a big difference.
I have a bunch of slightly sketchy router bits from my dead tree carcass mutilation adventures - never thought to use them on the mill! That's awesome! Totally using that.
Interesting detective work.
Well now I gotta go make one of these for my mill. Very nice!
Nice.
It's so cool that you show us how stuff works.
Wow, didn't that sound sophisticated. Oh well.
Hey, did you think about knurling the...
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Quinn,
I had a problem with a mill purchased from Precision Matthew. And they were very helpful in trying to correct the problem. Matt and his tech support guys are very pleasant to work with. They sent me any parts that were defective to try and resolve the issue. I think PM sent you that mill for free. I think your mill has a 5 year warranty. If it's Taiwan made.
It's unfortunate that you have to fix it yourself with the replacement parts.
This particular mill has a 5yr warranty. They do that on their "ultra precision" items. Not because they're made in taiwan, but because the ultra precision ones also have nicer guts like ground gears. The more robust parts allow them to warranty the machine for longer. The normal PM taiwanese machines have a 3yr warranty.
What other bench top mill they carry is made in Taiwan.
Great work Quinn, fantastic troubleshooting Cheers.
That is SWEET! I am definitely copying that for my 728. Thanks!
I have a milling machine like this one (with an Australian twist - 240 volt) and I love it.
Thanks for the lesson in troubleshooting. Being able to identify the root cause of a problem makes it easy to fix (assuming you have the tools).
Big Thanks for all tips. I wait for this moment every week...... Keep the 3D drawing in the upper corner, good for understand the movement (EMCO unimat 3) Gratings from Sweden.
Nice quality of life improvement.
Nice detective work. And nice knob.
I gotta say it speaks well to Precision Matthews that despite the critiques they keep supporting you in that style. Good on them, and good on you for not whitewashing!
maybe a radial pattern of slots or cutout features to aid in whole hand grippiness, love the project as always, your workflow is extremely easy to watch and learn from. Cheers!
Quinn, I appreciate you not giving into temptation. That dead horse might have gone dangerously unflogged. Well done.
Giggling aside, another thing the import machines give is standardization; accessories that fit many machines makes for better price and selection for them.
Both me and the wife thank you for switching over from screech to ocean while machining that piece of aluminum.
Great job. Thank you 😊
Quinn, my PM-728 Is five digits higher than yours, so probably built in the same run. My fine feed has always been smooth, so it does sounds like an issue with the shafts in yours. I like your idea for a larger wheel, so I think I'll be doing the same soon.
That crank handle should be fine for boring heads. Simply start at the *bottom* of the bore and bore upwards.
Around 16:00 :
Freaking THANK YOU. Every time I hear "Cheap Chinese blah blah blah", I cringe and usually correct it. These machines are wonders and I'm so glad I live in an era where I can buy $17 stepper motors, $2000 mills, etc.
The amount of ingenuity required to hit the capability vs cost is impressive to say the least.
To get a bigger knob to clear the DRO window, just start with a bigger knob, then mill off the side that covers the window! What could be easier! 😁😁
Quinn, what about trying to three point shim stock into the feed knob front support bushing and see if it helps, does nothing, or ties up the system? Trace up what you can get out of a piece of flat stock and cut it out then slide the little legs down between the shaft and the bore.
Amazing how different the different models are. My PM-727V had a knob similar to the one you made with a spinner handle as well as a constant force quill spring. Also, the clutch for the fine feed engage felt like it was toothed not friction drive.
Very nice work Quine
Really neat, useful mod!
Very nice job 👏
I have the same mill, but got mine a year or two earlier than you. Mine came with a nicer wheel for the fine feed. It looks like the clutch knob, only much larger diameter. Luckily mine hasn't had any of the issues yours had (yet).
Nice fix Quin. I have big brother to this mill. It has the same head, but with the knee instead of the column adjustment. I will be looking out for these issues.
Looks great!
So when are you adding a power feed to the quill? Let’s face it, it’s waiting to be done…
Love that handle, makes the mill look twice as fancy ;)
Regarding Chinese stuff:
I lately almost exclusive get that stuff for electronic test and measurement equipment, also at work .. for exactly the same reason. For what that stuff costs, it is plain and simply amazing. Yes, the software and UI tend to be a little bit clunky and not quite as polished than the big western brands .. but they cost a third or even less. And many of the features that are options with the big name brands and tend to double the price are included in the base package. And yes, people using 100k equipment (they didn't pay for, of course) give me a bad time about it.
Those brands have learned though .. they now sometimes sell the same thing, with their label stuck to it. I obviously won't name any company here, but anyone who is even remotely in the business knows which brands I'm referring to.
Excellent work, as usual.
You should make a nice hollow ground screwdriver for that lovely little brass screw that you made 😉 ❤
It needs to have "aaaaand YAHTZEE" printed in the well feature. Nice work.
People underestimate how much stuff cost to make when they look at used machines. For example a Deckel S1 grinder which people say about that it is built extremely sturdy for what it does cost about as much in the 60s as one to one and a half single family homes.
Yea, But now tiy can get one in good shape for inder 500 bucks
Very nice build
Good work!
Quinn, you are a megastar and an inspiration to hobby machinists like me, however, the material is aluminium not aluminum!, love from England.
"Chamfers are what separates us from the animals" 😂
Quinn, I love your content and anxiously await each new posting. As to this episode, would it have helped to set the shafts up concentrically and recut the centerers? then the rest of the features could be inspected on a true running shaft. I'm a recently "semi" retired machinist and have been fixing my mistakes for over 50 years.
Excellent content and explanations.
Looks and seams to work great Quinn, thanks for sharing this upgrade video. 25:17, yes it is a bit longer than your some of your videos. That's great customer service from Precision Matthews, kind of too bad the replacement ?fine feed? shaft is just going to sit in your drawer rather than theirs.
I didn't think about knurling, (so thank you for the comment.) I did wonder about exposed aluminium transferring Al'oxide "dirt" to your hands or gloves while you turn it - would a quick powder coat (when I are next doing that) help prevent the wheel "painting" your fingers black?
Thanks for this. My g0704 started slipping. I havent used the fine feed much since i got it new but doing a part this weekend it started acting up.
Nice repair. 👍🏻
Gut gemacht 🙌