Making 3D parts for a 3D printer with the 3D printer that the parts are for just makes the whole deal seem even more futuristic. Keep up the great work with your vids! Cheers!
Your channel is my fav for 3D printing. You put engineering (Canadian use this to mean design not machining) into your projects. By the way, I am also a hobby machinist so I have nothing against them just the UK definition of engineer and engineering.
Is there a reason not installing a fuse from the PSU to the mosfet? The original board mosfets are secured with SMD fuses. Now the low load from board mosfet to external mosfet is secure (smd fuses), but no fuse from PSU to heating element (over external mosfet). If the heating element fails it may short and draw a lot of amps. Not enough for the PSU (e.g. 200W) to shut down but enough for the heating element wires or connectors to get very hot. This may be bad without a fuse, or am i wrong?
very underrated comment! i've seen a lot of people installing mosfets between their boards and hotbeds and hotends without adding a fuses. they run their hotends and hotbeads directly off the mosfets and psu. therefore, i'll ad a fuse coming from the mosfet leading to the heating element. what are your thoughts on this after one year?
Just a tip on using boot lace ferrels on your wire ends only use when screws are clamping on to the wire, if the connectors have wire protectors (a thin flap of metal between the screw and wire) use bare wire as you get more contact, it may be the reason your others melted
Yep, if those connectors are melting your really have something wrong with how you connecting in. Edit Accely, Thouse connectors are kinda on the edge. Therre max current is 12amps and the bed is rated for just under 12. www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/phoenix-contact/1751086/277-1959-ND/1926175&?gclid=Cj0KCQjw5NnbBRDaARIsAJP-YR9mAv7QR2SdZBqg0QdgbC8C-4gM9ZPTtO5meLdZVGCqD2Xza4tHWT0aAmPkEALw_wcB If it was me i would just solder a standard screw mount connector in and remove that plugable type. EX www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/on-shore-technology-inc/ED700-2/ED1631-ND/33958
Those ferrules are pretty soft, they will also deform to the shape of the terminal and make good contact. While using bare wire is okay, I wouldn't recommend it in this application. Without the ferrules, bare wire strands can break off when you undo and redo the connector (which I'm sure you do from time to time on a printer) or just by bending the cable. Also, single strands that were not properly inserted could cause a short. Ferrules protect you from these issues. I'd use bare wire only on "one time installation and never touch again" applications with these terminals ;)
I installed one of these mosfets on my Tarantula using the diagram provided in this video. Rechecked everything about three or more times to make sure all wiring was connected to the correct sections. Right above the section where main power is supplied the ground line burned out and the mosfet went into a runaway event. Short of turning the power off to the system the bed would not drop the temperature back to the low side. I removed it and installed another mosfet similar to the one you installed, with the same wiring diagram and the bed has functionality. The vendor is refunding my purchase, and I will order another one down the road for my next build.
I've had my printer for about a week the anycubic mega zero as my first printer. Don't think I need a MOSFET upgrade right meow but when would be a good time?
Nice work, but your circuit diagram @ the 5 min mark doesnt match your actual wiring. The diagram shows power supply to mosfet and to mainboard. But you wired it power supply to mosfet, then mosfet to mainboard. Electrically identical but could be confusing for some people when they're trying to work out what the second set of wires are..
I went for this sort of solution when i started but quickly moved away from it when I realised that even with this mod I would still be pushing things a bit too much. Solution? Silicone heated bed! 220 VAC/600W with an SSR. Problem solved!!! Been some time since you uploaded... miss you PS: Yeah... I know. I only have one video uploaded but that's due to time constraints and most of my free time is taken up by my main channel Biker's Garage 101 Thanks for sharing
So basically, where the old heater wires connected to the mainboard, you connected the mosfets "control" location, then Power in/out to the source voltage, and hotend. Is that correct?
I tired it on mi e mine fire the hotend, and it just starts heating and can't be controlled by the mainboard. Idk what to change. Can you please help,? I'm on discord too.
Nice time lapse of the prints! I’m guessing you’re using an output on the printer control board to trigger each shot, along with some extra code for each new layer in your slicer?
i have a similar mosfet and mine just goes full blast as soon as the printer turns on. anyone have any ideas why? printer= tevo tarantula / control board= mks base 1.4 / mosfet= mkk hotbed-mos+ v2.1 2017.1.1
Would you be willing to give our software a try? We are a small startup completely bootstrapped. Tooks us 5 years to develop our real-time collaborative CAD.
Why don't you use a di-electric grease when installing pin components to the board? That's why your contacts are burning up. Because you're always going to have variances in dimensions between manufacturing companies for contact points. That's why the grease exists. Anyways.. food for thought.
MOSFETs are awesome things. This should not have been needed as an upgrade. It would have been my first 'go to' device to make it happen from the start.
The mosfets on the prusas board are perfectly fine. I don't get why people use external and cheap mosfets to solve issues with connectors. You could just solder a better connector in, or solder the wires directly to the board... Good mosfets don't require a heatsink. The fact that this heatsink is so big means that the mosfet dissipates a huge amount of heat (and thus reduces the heating power of the hotend/bed) or the one who designed this board just doesn't know what he is doing.
funny, after the relay in my bed crapped out, i was gonna buy that exact relay for my printer but banggood is sold out...then i see this video...interesting timing
With the connector being the issue, why don't you just solder a better connector to it, or solder bare wire with e.g. an XT-60 connector to the board directly? The mosfets on the prusas board are perfectly fine. Good mosfets don't require a heatsink. The fact that this heatsink is so big means that the mosfet dissipates a huge amount of heat (and thus reduces the heating power of the hotend/bed) or the one who designed this board just doesn't know what he is doing (or it's just BIGGER IS BETTER marketing, which actually works).
Except you also need to replace the power input connector to the PCB, as that also has the same current drawn from it. I'd much rather see 18A going through wires, than PCB traces. I design PCBs and have serious doubts those are rated for 18A.
Yeah sure, you would need to replace the input terminals too. The PCB shouldn't be a concern. I'm sure prusa did this right. And the external mosfet also sits on a PCB anyway :D So, it's just a question of who did the PCB better. Prusa, or a random chinese guy who thinks bif heatsinks are better. Maybe @nerdville could measure the voltage drop on the external mosfet and compare it with someone who measures on the original prusa mosfet..
It’s not just the connector at fault. In theory they are a suitable rating... The fault is more to do with the wires moving and jiggling the connector. Over time and repeated jiggling this worsens to the point where there is not a solid contact and it arcs. This degrades and melts the plastic housing(s). Using the mosfet is a recommendation for heat beds in general but in this case it doubles as you are separating the connection from printer to power and using screw terminals which form a better connection to the wire. You shouldn’t use any solder on the wires gaining into the mosfet terminals and personally I wouldn’t risk crimping as this could cause a similar issue if not done properly, with wire movement. The only better way would be to solder direct to the board... Regardless, keep an eye out for wire fatigue. I ended up replacing the heatbed wiring with 14awg silicon wire as I got a break in the middle somewhere due to this and I’ve had to replace thermistors several times on my printers for the same as well. Just 2 cents.
Making 3D parts for a 3D printer with the 3D printer that the parts are for just makes the whole deal seem even more futuristic. Keep up the great work with your vids! Cheers!
Your channel is my fav for 3D printing. You put engineering (Canadian use this to mean design not machining) into your projects. By the way, I am also a hobby machinist so I have nothing against them just the UK definition of engineer and engineering.
I saw this channel was at 9,999 subscribers so I had to subscribe to be the 10,000th. I earned it since I watched most of the 18650 series of videos!
I bet this was one of the reasons they went to 24v in the mk3. the connector carries half the current plus it is a different board.
Thanks, just installed this exact MOSFET and this video was a big help.
Please make more videos, I'd like to see your take on enclosed prusa with Acrylic sheets! :)
Thanks for a detailed upgrade.
Awesomely smooth time lapses!
What are the two terminals next to the bed terminal, labeled sig for?
Is there a reason not installing a fuse from the PSU to the mosfet? The original board mosfets are secured with SMD fuses. Now the low load from board mosfet to external mosfet is secure (smd fuses), but no fuse from PSU to heating element (over external mosfet). If the heating element fails it may short and draw a lot of amps. Not enough for the PSU (e.g. 200W) to shut down but enough for the heating element wires or connectors to get very hot.
This may be bad without a fuse, or am i wrong?
very underrated comment! i've seen a lot of people installing mosfets between their boards and hotbeds and hotends without adding a fuses. they run their hotends and hotbeads directly off the mosfets and psu. therefore, i'll ad a fuse coming from the mosfet leading to the heating element. what are your thoughts on this after one year?
fantastic stuff bud
Just a tip on using boot lace ferrels on your wire ends only use when screws are clamping on to the wire, if the connectors have wire protectors (a thin flap of metal between the screw and wire) use bare wire as you get more contact, it may be the reason your others melted
Yep, if those connectors are melting your really have something wrong with how you connecting in.
Edit Accely, Thouse connectors are kinda on the edge. Therre max current is 12amps and the bed is rated for just under 12. www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/phoenix-contact/1751086/277-1959-ND/1926175&?gclid=Cj0KCQjw5NnbBRDaARIsAJP-YR9mAv7QR2SdZBqg0QdgbC8C-4gM9ZPTtO5meLdZVGCqD2Xza4tHWT0aAmPkEALw_wcB
If it was me i would just solder a standard screw mount connector in and remove that plugable type. EX
www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/on-shore-technology-inc/ED700-2/ED1631-ND/33958
Those ferrules are pretty soft, they will also deform to the shape of the terminal and make good contact. While using bare wire is okay, I wouldn't recommend it in this application. Without the ferrules, bare wire strands can break off when you undo and redo the connector (which I'm sure you do from time to time on a printer) or just by bending the cable. Also, single strands that were not properly inserted could cause a short. Ferrules protect you from these issues. I'd use bare wire only on "one time installation and never touch again" applications with these terminals ;)
I installed one of these mosfets on my Tarantula using the diagram provided in this video. Rechecked everything about three or more times to make sure all wiring was connected to the correct sections. Right above the section where main power is supplied the ground line burned out and the mosfet went into a runaway event. Short of turning the power off to the system the bed would not drop the temperature back to the low side. I removed it and installed another mosfet similar to the one you installed, with the same wiring diagram and the bed has functionality. The vendor is refunding my purchase, and I will order another one down the road for my next build.
Are you still about I’m wondering if you up todo a joint project
Great video as usual!
is a 160watt 11 amp psu good enough for 7 steppers hot end 2 fans and 6 end stops on a rumba plus my steppers are barely moving
I've had my printer for about a week the anycubic mega zero as my first printer. Don't think I need a MOSFET upgrade right meow but when would be a good time?
Nice work, but your circuit diagram @ the 5 min mark doesnt match your actual wiring. The diagram shows power supply to mosfet and to mainboard. But you wired it power supply to mosfet, then mosfet to mainboard. Electrically identical but could be confusing for some people when they're trying to work out what the second set of wires are..
I went for this sort of solution when i started but quickly moved away from it when I realised that even with this mod I would still be pushing things a bit too much. Solution? Silicone heated bed! 220 VAC/600W with an SSR. Problem solved!!!
Been some time since you uploaded... miss you
PS: Yeah... I know. I only have one video uploaded but that's due to time constraints and most of my free time is taken up by my main channel Biker's Garage 101
Thanks for sharing
So basically, where the old heater wires connected to the mainboard, you connected the mosfets "control" location, then Power in/out to the source voltage, and hotend. Is that correct?
I tired it on mi e mine fire the hotend, and it just starts heating and can't be controlled by the mainboard. Idk what to change. Can you please help,?
I'm on discord too.
Where is the link at??
How many amped(A) power supply you use?
Good to see you back in full on nerd mode. I wish I understood electronics a bit more :)
Nice time lapse of the prints! I’m guessing you’re using an output on the printer control board to trigger each shot, along with some extra code for each new layer in your slicer?
mman454 octolapse.
I really think you should get the MK2 to MK3 upgrade. Then you wouldn't need a big MOSFET! :)
Always great! Thank you so much.
i have a similar mosfet and mine just goes full blast as soon as the printer turns on. anyone have any ideas why? printer= tevo tarantula / control board= mks base 1.4 / mosfet= mkk hotbed-mos+ v2.1 2017.1.1
What happen to the channel just got here and now im sad youre gone
hey nerdville how are you going long time no c I hope all is well with you and your family and work life balance miss you
We miss your videos
Top! Gute Idee!
Hey, great video about 3D printing. I would like to know what 3D modeling software you currently using?
I'm a Full fledged Autodesk Inventor Professional user, which is a more advanced version of Fusion360. But Fusion360 is pretty powerful
Would you be willing to give our software a try? We are a small startup completely bootstrapped. Tooks us 5 years to develop our real-time collaborative CAD.
Excellent !!!
Why don't you use a di-electric grease when installing pin components to the board? That's why your contacts are burning up. Because you're always going to have variances in dimensions between manufacturing companies for contact points. That's why the grease exists. Anyways.. food for thought.
Awesome!
Good Idea well Done :-))
MOSFETs are awesome things. This should not have been needed as an upgrade.
It would have been my first 'go to' device to make it happen from the start.
The mosfets on the prusas board are perfectly fine. I don't get why people use external and cheap mosfets to solve issues with connectors. You could just solder a better connector in, or solder the wires directly to the board... Good mosfets don't require a heatsink.
The fact that this heatsink is so big means that the mosfet dissipates a huge amount of heat (and thus reduces the heating power of the hotend/bed) or the one who designed this board just doesn't know what he is doing.
funny, after the relay in my bed crapped out, i was gonna buy that exact relay for my printer but banggood is sold out...then i see this video...interesting timing
Sweet
Nice job providing absolutely no links to anything you talked about in the video! :)
Cool
2:20
With the connector being the issue, why don't you just solder a better connector to it, or solder bare wire with e.g. an XT-60 connector to the board directly?
The mosfets on the prusas board are perfectly fine.
Good mosfets don't require a heatsink. The fact that this heatsink is so big means that the mosfet dissipates a huge amount of heat (and thus reduces the heating power of the hotend/bed) or the one who designed this board just doesn't know what he is doing (or it's just BIGGER IS BETTER marketing, which actually works).
Except you also need to replace the power input connector to the PCB, as that also has the same current drawn from it.
I'd much rather see 18A going through wires, than PCB traces. I design PCBs and have serious doubts those are rated for 18A.
Yeah sure, you would need to replace the input terminals too. The PCB shouldn't be a concern. I'm sure prusa did this right. And the external mosfet also sits on a PCB anyway :D So, it's just a question of who did the PCB better. Prusa, or a random chinese guy who thinks bif heatsinks are better.
Maybe @nerdville could measure the voltage drop on the external mosfet and compare it with someone who measures on the original prusa mosfet..
It’s not just the connector at fault. In theory they are a suitable rating... The fault is more to do with the wires moving and jiggling the connector. Over time and repeated jiggling this worsens to the point where there is not a solid contact and it arcs. This degrades and melts the plastic housing(s). Using the mosfet is a recommendation for heat beds in general but in this case it doubles as you are separating the connection from printer to power and using screw terminals which form a better connection to the wire. You shouldn’t use any solder on the wires gaining into the mosfet terminals and personally I wouldn’t risk crimping as this could cause a similar issue if not done properly, with wire movement. The only better way would be to solder direct to the board...
Regardless, keep an eye out for wire fatigue. I ended up replacing the heatbed wiring with 14awg silicon wire as I got a break in the middle somewhere due to this and I’ve had to replace thermistors several times on my printers for the same as well.
Just 2 cents.
is a 160watt 11 amp psu good enough for 7 steppers hot end 2 fans and 6 end stops on a rumba plus my steppers are barely moving