Cast Iron pump welding repair
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- In this one, we take a cracked cast iron pump, cut off the old discharge port, machine a new one using schedule 80 pipe, and stick weld it back to the pump body using nickel rod. This one was a challenge, but we got the customer back up and running. hope you guys enjoy! Thanks for watching!
#weld #welder #welding #weldshop #fabrication #fabshop #machining #machineshop #stickwelding #stickwelder #shoplife #castiron #smallbusiness #freedom - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Dude I’m not going to tell a welder (that owns his own welding shop about welding) but I am going to say work smarter and not harder, you’ve got a hand truck in the shop and a crane over the bench, use them for hell sakes, I’ve done a lot of the kind of work that you do and I can tell you it will bite you in the butt when you get older, I’m in my 60’s and I have severe arthritis especially in my hands and back, take care of yourself because we’re not bulletproof, ok I’m done, keep up the Great Videos!
I welded cast iron about 35 years ago and it was a beast. It was my first time. It wasn't pretty but it held. I urge or should I say challenge every welder to try it, it will test you to no end. You did a fantastic job. I wish YT was there to help as I had no help whatsoever. In spanish they call it, metal de Azucar( sugar metal). My weld would never have passed an X-ray.
@@yellowdeer7163 I think technology has definitely come a long way, which would make doing the job easier. 35 years ago, things were a lot different in the welding world. I look up to guys that had to make repairs years ago. That required a whole other level of skill. Thanks for watching!
Nice job on the repair. If I would have known you were looking for some 312L I could have fronted you a stick or two as I have some on hand at my shop. I use both 312L and 309L for welding dissimilar metals quite a bit. I'm just north near Ogden.
I just repaired a 1938 Farmall F12 tractor hub/wheel a couple weeks ago for a client, but I used UTP Ni-55 rod. I knocked the flux off the rod and made a couple root passes using TIG method after pre-heating to around 450-degrees and pinged using a needle scaler intermittently.
I then used a cover weave pass of 309L to blend out and flatten down, followed by a slow cooling and wrapped in a welding blanket.
Keep the videos coming.
Mike
@@zmotorsports62 Thanks Mike, I appreciate that. That’s good to know that you are in Ogden. I will make note of that. Thanks for the offer on the rod. I’ll have to try the tig root method on the next one. Thanks for watching!
That was really impressive! I've done a bit of cast iron to mild steel before and it was tough! I used nickel 55 rods- I'll have to give this kind a try! Keep up the great work!
@@JohnWheels Thanks brother, it was a tough one. Sometimes those ones are the funnest. Thanks for watching!
Change your polarity and weld one inch beads in four spots than ping before welding preheat to about 250 than weld your one inch beads ping really good ones completely welded post heat to 250 and cool slowly I've welded lots of cast iron I usually use nickel 99 cast rod
What’s with changing your polarity? Do you mean, straight polarity, as in DC electrode negative? If so, I may have to try that.
@@williamthomas9463 yes sir
Brother have y'all never heard of 309l stainless rod? Much more available and works great for what you're doing. But, who am I? Been welding for over 30 years, and have welded a good bit of cast iron, grey iron, and ductile iron. White cast is simply not weldable. There's a book for about $15 by Lincoln called Metals and How to weld them. I learned alot from it. My welding instructor showed us that and wm graves blue book. Said every welder should have them both. They're both on Amazon. God bless.
I have never broken an insert while parting off. Never. And I have never told a lie. LOL! Using that tool that far away from the chuck without the end supported is going to chatter like crazy. Look into pipe centers, they might be useful to you for jobs like this. What I would have done is flipped it around after facing it off and cut the groove closer to the chuck. Nice work.
@@MyLilMule I will definitely have to invest in some pipe centers. That is a great idea. Thanks for the info, and thanks for watching!
Those portable band saws are sure handy. Lots of good stuff it his one and lots of info in the comments 👍
@@neilheriot2361 I love the portaband. Definitely lots of Info in the comments, good and bad. Lol. Thanks for watching!
Nice video again, you're lucky it welds properly. Another happy customer
@@erikslagter3231 Cast is difficult, but we made it work. Thanks for watching!
When i find a good parameter for a rare rod i write it on the box for the next time i use them (sometimes years later)
@@vettepicking That’s a good idea. Sounds like your memory is like mine. Haha. Thanks for watching!
Rad video my dude. I hate welding cast. I usually just tig braz it. I MT(magnetic particle test) and PT(liquid dye penetrate test) my welds. But its really important for me with cast iron repairs If I do try to weld them. They all almost always crack on me.
If you got an email or an Instagram. I can send you pics of an experiment that I did. I welded up a junk dana 30 or 35. I welded up the mild steel axle tubes to the cast iron differential. And I did this with stick rods and tig rods.
The stick rods where welded with nickel rods that weld like you are dragging mud. And rockmout Brutus A . The Brutus A worked really well. But it runs like a stainless stick rod , cuz it moslty is . I got slang inclusions all in it.
I switched over to the other side with 309 tig rod and rockmounts Brutus A . And I did crack the weld with both of them . But Ita cuz I got overzealous and just put the weld in. It was flowing really nice but I knew better.
When I pre heated the parts to 300 ish, welded 1 inch at a time, kept the inner pass temps to 200-275. I got a crack free weld. And I let the weld sit over night in a FR blanket.
I did a MT test to test the base metal for underbead cracking. And since the rod is mostly stainless. The MT is going to not work or look like cracking at the toes of the weld. So thats why I did A PT test. PT tests is for only surface inspection but I had no cracking on the cast or the weld metal . I did have some porosity at the toes of the cast side.
Rockmount research and alloys has some good stuff. Its just very expensive. And some stuff I dont like but the Brutus A is really good for the dissimilar metals . And it has amazing properties as well.
Again my dude , rad video. That looks amazing for a stick cast iron weld my dude. And also no worries if you dont have an IG or an email and or dont want to share that with a fan. Keep crushing it dude.
@@blueweld75 Thanks for the positive feedback. Cast Iron repairs are always difficult. You can find me on Instagram at freedomfabrication777. I would love to see the pics. Sounds like it’s quite a project. Thanks for watching!
Good little learning video. Thanks for sharing.
@@k20Fritz You bet. Thanks for watching!
Nice job, bluedemon has very good tig rod For cast
@@sergiotapia312 What kind of Tig rod are you referring to?
You could try breaking the flux off those rods and clean them and tig weld it in the future
Another great video. I have a repair coming up on a backhoe with ductile metal. Thanks for the video!
@@michaelbigelow367 Thank you for watching!
Why did you not spin the part around and put the groove in at the chuck end. stick out would have been miles shorter.
Job well done Sir. Thanks for sharing.
@@TheNicko773 Thank you for watching!
Nice video. Thanks for sharing.
@@danramos281 thank you for watching!
When using emery cloth in a lathe ALWAYS cover the ways. Don't and the lathe will be toast.
Great work.
@@tallyman15 Thanks!
Vee cracks.Preheat postheat to stress relieve. Slow cooling process. Brazing is fast still same process. Drill to terminate cracks
Nice repair!
@@earlcavenaugh6459 Thank you!
Nice job, please use a fresh air helmet.
Well done
@@Eric-mr4yf thanks, I appreciate that. Thank you for watching!
Your videos are great and you do a really good job but man i wish you'd use respiratory protection with that rod. Probably lots of nickel and other nasty stuff. Lots of smoke going into your hood. Just thinking of you guys health
Great video as always!! I was wondering if you could’ve used 7018 or dual shield after second pass because you would’ve been from weld to steel pipe? 🤷🏻♂️ just a thought lol
@@larryvollmar8763 Probably could have once I was fusing the weld to the steel coupling. I just figured it was more safe to stick with the nickel rod for the whole process. Good thought though. Thanks for watching!
nice work
@@davidtown6825Thanks!
Looks like the amps are to high. I was just reading up on the electrode and it recommends 70-100 amps for 1/8. It probably why your getting the spatter and the funky arc.
@@codywillard5156 I’ll try running a test with those amps. Thanks for the suggestion and thanks for watching!
Compared to standard 7018 those nickel rods aren't cheap either.
@@DXT61 That is very true. It’s good I only need them once in a while. Thanks for watching!
Correct me if i'm wrong, But from your Torch Test It seems like you have cast iron, Which is different than cast steel correct? So by simply referring to what you have there As cast could be a little confusing for people who don't know there's a difference. Again if i'm wrong let me know.
@@michealmanning7167 You are correct. I thought the same thing when I watched it. I should quit referring to it as “cast”.
Rigid makes a groov roller for Vic fottings. I used them all the time back when i was fittin fire sprinkler systems.
@@Nick-ih5em does it attach to a pipe threader?
@@Freedomfabrication777 yes, I used the rigid 300
@@Nick-ih5em I’ll have to look into it. Thanks for the suggestion!
@@Freedomfabrication777 they are a life/time saver. They also make one to use by hand. (In air groover)
Just a thought maybe break the flux off the rod and clean it then tig it.
@@robertoobregon3750 might be worth a try. Thanks for watching!
That a burkley water truck pump iv rebuild 1000s of them it's common for that to happen to them why not just cut fitting off . Thread the housing and screw in a stainless vatlic fitting they sell a close theads fitting with standard pipe thread. They also make a house that threaded on all the ends that fit that same truck pump. Unfortunately that truck pump model the worst model every thing cast and it's seal type not good for a truck pump application. Packing style last way longer. Our machine shop uses aluminum bronze. I work for a water pump company. I also do all the rebuild that come in.💯👍✌️😉 the color give burkley away every time. 😊
@@josephsaucedo8691 I don’t have a tap big enough, or a lathe big enough, or a chuck big enough to be able to thread that hole. I figured just building a new fitting and welding it on was best scenario for this application. On a smaller pump, I think that would work great. Thanks for watching!
@Freedomfabrication777 no problem I also for get we have a in house machine shop at our shop and a lot of people won't have one on hand. So my bad I heard you say machine and that was what I would have done because of availability. 💯👍✌️😅
@@josephsaucedo8691 You’re good. It’s never a bad thing to think outside the box. I think that’s a great quality if you are a craftsman or mechanic. Thanks for the suggestion.