Basic run down of a subwoofer installation. This method will be using a line out converter to tap into our rear speakers to get the low frequency for the subwoofer.
Sushi your first try on an accord like this? I have done many 90’s civics but I got a ‘16 touring and wouldn’t want to fuck anything up. Sometimes I just overthink stuff cuz I am actually pretty handy lol
This is a good video for adding a powered sub into the Honda Accord. I'd like the add a fuse jack so that you don't mess up the existing fused circuit. However, I'd do a few things every differently. First, I would not add the sub to the rear door, I would add that to the accessory fuse. This way, you won't mess up your rear powered door if the fuse is blown. Second, I would not route the positive power cable through the side wall of the car, I'd find another grommet on the firewall away from the car side so I don't have to send the power cable through the fender. I'd also route the power cable to the other side of the car away from the control wire to eliminate the magnetic interference to the control signal. I'd also keep this power cable away from the existing care wiring harness or wrap if with tape because it could get hot driving the amp. Third, I'd not tie the ground wire to the seat back bolt, this is NOT the proper ground point for the car. There is a proper vehicle ground bolt on the left or right side of the trunk, run the ground wire there or you risk loosing ground to the sub when the car bouncing on the road. Last but not least, spend money on a good mono amp or two channel amp that can be bridged mono, you don't want to have to go back to swap out the amp because it could not cut it. Finally, to get the most out of the amp, you may consider upgrading the car battery because this car has a wimpy battery. No matter how good your amp is, the weak link is always the power source. After over 20 years doing mods on my cars, I stopped doing it because I can afford better cars with kick ass factory sound system. How does one improve an 8 channels, 11 speakers system from the manufacturers?
I know the video was posted some time ago, but I’m looking to install subs into my car with a line out converter. This video was a great help, thank you
Dude, you are awesome!! I didn't install a subwoofer, but I installed a radar detector with the receiver mounted underneath the license plate. I was going nuts trying to figure out how to get through the firewall until I found your video. Thanks a million!!
@Duc Le ty for your post. I did everything init except now I need to make a change. The factory radio in the ex-l has a different signal so when I use the LOC it doesnt sound as good so I have to tap into the signal before the factory amp or else it doesnt sound very good even with my expensive upgrades.
I was able to drill two holes through the firewall on the drivers side with a uni-bit and 18" extension and run two 4 gauge wires to the battery (One for each amp). You just have to be careful and know where to drill. Here's a description of what I did for the installation in the below link:My goal was to install a great sounding audio system while retaining the factory head unit and keeping the car as stock looking as possible. The system consists of an Audio Control LCQ1 LOC under the passenger seat; JL HD1200/1 pushing a single JL 12W7 in an Audio Enhancers ported enclosure; JL HD600/4 pushing a pair of JL C5 650's in the doors and Focal PC 165's in the rear deck; JL HD-RLC volume controller in the center console (To control sub); VIAS GSR-02X SiriusXM Satellite Radio Interface; Optima yellow top battery. Custom polypropylene rings were made to fit the 6.5's in the stock speaker locations. Custom amp racks were fabricated to fit the amps in the corners of the trunk. All NVX wiring, cables, and fuse holders were used. Separate 4 AWG wires were home run to each amplifier from the battery. Also upgraded the factory grounds under the hood. I've had no issues with lights dimming or sound cutting out. Also note - I disabled the ANC Unit (Active Noise Cancelling Unit). This can be done by simply unplugging the unit. Do not attempt to disconnect the factory microphones as it is not necessary and you will most likely damage the headliner while doing so.th-cam.com/video/WP3I1ryCyng/w-d-xo.html
+Duc Le Thank you. It sounds pretty awesome! I saw your video on how to add the courtesy lights in the doors using the dsub connectors. Worked like a charm!
@@Leviathanas1well the more you learn. By no mean I'm an audio expert, but this method works for me and it sounds better than before with the extra bass.
@@ducducgoose problem with what you did, you don't get any bass. You only get mid signal from it. The only way to get anything is by this method. Also, your method lacks enough signal output to do it right as well. Just pointing it out as it seems so many people have done this wrong. I'm an audio engineer and don't mind helping out.
i have the same car. pluged it in #3 fuse which is turn on/off key, it was empty when i did it. works great, try it wiyhout tapping into windows fuses. also i used 7.5 amp no need for more 20 is way too much
You dont need to remove fender liner. Just pop out the grommet and push a hanger thru. tape wire on to it feed thru, then put the grommet on the inside and slide it up. Pretty simple.
I followed this video for my install on my 2015 Accord. I was instructed by Crutchfield to use fuse #37 which is 7.5 amps. My amp seems to be powering up just fine. But I am not getting anything from the subwoofers themselves. So I am guessing 7.5 is enough - as it is only telling the amp to turn on, correct? I think I have a poor connection with the connecters I used for the rear speakers/ Line out converter.
Thanks Duc Le for sharing the video. Long weekend coming up and I'm planning on using the 3 days to upgrade my sound system. What I'm not clear about is how did you connect your amp back to the Head unit? Is the Head unit going straight to your front L/R and Rear L/R speakers and the amp is only being used for the sub? I have a 2014 EXL with navi currently equipped with the 7 speaker Premium setup which I find lacking and the OEM sub rattles like crazy- I'm trying to plan everything out by trying to order the proper equipment. I too will be using a JL sub in a box much like what you have. One of my options is to bypass the factory amp and run the speaker cables back to the trunk where the amp will be. I will need a line-out converter though near the Head unit so that the RCA cables can go back to the amp. Also does the add-a-circuit turn on the amp when the car is turned on or does the amp turn on/off when the radio is turned on and off? Thanks!!
Hi R C, thanks for stopping by my channel. To answer your question I am not connecting to the OEM headunit. What I did was I have the amp lead wire connect to the add-a-circuit which is connect to the fuse right under the driver side (this way the amp can turn on when you start the car). Then the power cable runs from the amp to the battery to get power. In order to get signal to the amp and then to the sub you would use a line-out-converter (LOC) to get that signal. The LOC will have 5 wires. 1 set for the left channel, 1 set for the right channel, and 1 ground cable. So what I did was I use a quick-connector and connect the LOC left channel to the left rear speaker, you will have to find which wire is positive and which one is negative. Then do the same for the right channel to the rear right speaker. Finally the LOC will have an RCA cable that you connect to the amp. Here is a link of a quick schematic that I put together. Hopefully this makes more sense lol. docs.google.com/drawings/d/1GxBs1Vg9YztS0a3x2Ilaf7KfesrXv3O_NyMBLBHZfnU/edit?usp=sharing
Thanks again Duc Le for the additional info. I think I understand how you approached your setup. I'm looking at getting that JL sub and an Amp with enough power to supply the current stock speakers/ JL sub as well as allow headroom for aftermarket speakers in the future. I can disconnect at the factory amp input, add the LOC and then 9-wire the 4 speakers and run back to the aftermarket amp. From there, I can finish-off power and fuse connection on the amp.
did the exact same setup only question is do I need to strip the rear speaker wires? I have the quick connectors but my sub isn't hitting and the sub is fairly new
No need, with the quick connector you don't have to strip or splice any wires. Just attach two wires together with the quick connector and you're good to go.
Which of the rear speaker do you tap into? My accord has a red and yellow cables connected to the harness and have two solders on the ends. What exactly would I tap in to? It's a 16 lx
Hey great video. Do you have to connect to both rear speakers? I have a factory sub and want to just connect the line out converter to that. Will that work? Or do you have to connect to the rear speakers?
Hey. I appreciate the video. Helped me a lot. Almost done with my set up. Just one thing. I can't get the power cable to the battery through the grommet you recommended. It seems like it's just coiling and I can't see it. I tried multiple times. You mentioned moving the wheel well in your video. How do I go about doing that? If I could find a vid on that my job would be done.
Hey McKirven, so what you want to do is turn your wheel to the right. Then look under the wheel well and you should see some tabs that's holding the wheel well plastic. You want to remove those tab so that way you have an easier access to the cable. To be honest it was really difficult for me at first as well, it took several tries before I managed to route the cable through. I highly recommend another person helping you out with running the power cable to the battery. Good luck with the install!
I actually took off one tab that was sorta like inverted into the wheel well and shoved my hand(which I have a rather large hand) and fed the wire up and used my other hand to grab it and pull it out. Took like 5mins
I like the vid but if you tap your woofers into the rear speakers aren't you lowering the ohms that the amp channel is going to see? So let's say 4ohm deck and sub speakers would equal 2ohms at the amp?
Hello Duc, I have Honda Accord 2013. Can I use power, remote wire and earth wire from the loc straight to amps earth, remote and power wire port. Instead of using different spot to earth Loc and use my remote wire from fuse to the Amp. Thanks.
Jassi I don't think it works like that. My set up is LOC will tap to the two rear speakers and ground the wire from the LOC to the car. I have the power from the car battery to the amp. The remote wire goes from the fuse the the amp. I hope that make sense.
I used the rear left window fuse for remote on but I found out that if you drive awhile the window still works after being turned off and the sub would go full volumne and emite just bass. I used the 7.5 accessory fuse for the 12v sockets and it has fixed the problem
@@dwreck3029You must connect the remote wire to the fuse for the cigarette lighter, the remote wire tells the amp when to turn on, the cigarette lighter is only on when the cars on so its perfect. Do not use the window fuse it will cause problems with the amp turning on when the cars off
you still active? installing my subs and looking into ELD, the system that manages the alternator output and limits your battery to 12.5 volts. I am putting in a 2nd battery and big 3 and am nervous there will be an issue with the ELD limiting alternator to 12.5 volts and bypassing the battery management with the big 3... any experience?
Would it be a surprise that I'm still active? Lol To answer your concern I honestly don't know about ELD limiting. Your best bet is probably visiting the accord forum and ask on there. Or you can always try it out and share your result. I'm sure someone will find it useful in the future.
Hey hows it going Duc Le, as always i enjoy all the video you make, helps me alot and gives me confidence is doing things to my 2015 accord sport, before i would be just like you, going out and just doing it but since I've became a quadriplegic (although i can walk and still use both hands), I get scared at times that if i start something and I can't finish it. My question today is regarding audio system in my 2015 accord sport, is it possible to use the stock radio from a 2015 accord ex and put it in my car without any custom wiring, I know it will fit physically but would it be a plug n play install. Thank you so much for your time and God Bless you and your family john k
john jkizer thanks John! Sorry to hear about your situation. However, that doesn't mean you aren't able to achieve greater things. it means a lot to me that these videos are helping you out. Regarding to your question. You are able to use the stock head unit (radio) to install your subwoofer. I believe the ex trim doesn't have the stock subwoofer in the rear, if so you can follow the steps in this video to install your subwoofer. I wish you the best of luck, and feel free to let me know if you have any other question. I usually reply to comment pretty quick. Good luck!
That rattling noise is because I haven't put everything back yet. I want to test the system out before putting everything back just in case something didn't go right.
I don't remember the RMS, but it's a Rockford Fostgate Prime model and it was a 500watts amp. I didn't experience any voltage drop or dimming. There's also a knob control that I run from the amp up to where the shift knob was so I can control how much bass I want and I have it at maybe 1/5 of the way and had plenty of bass to fill the car.
Looking at your dimension, I think it might partially covering the spare tire space. I made my box really shallow and it stills cover half of my spare tire. Then again I'm using somewhat thick subwoofer, if you get a shallow subwoofer you might be able to save more space in the trunk.
I have a 2014 accord lx I was wondering can I use a speaker wire harness to connect the LOC instead of splicing the both rear speakers. This model doesn't have the stock sub.
Old post but if you upgrade your rear deck speakers you can use an after market connector and solder in an extra set of wires 1 set to the speaker and one to the loc. If you plan to add a highs amp then just use the connector to the loc and speaker wire from the amp to the speaker
I really like your video thanks for all the helpfull info. I have a problem on mine , i did the same on my car but i have a 2014 manual accord, i have lot of interference in mine , i hear the sound of the engine in the subwoofer on the iddle and as soon as the car is in low rpm. Does anyone bad the same problem , i really cant find what it can be .
+ZovieHD Because I still have the backseat down just in case if it didn't work I can go back to check what's wrong before putting everything back together.
Does your car make a loud pop noise when turning off car.. my loc2 is kicker brand and it has a remote wire that yours doesn't. Every time I turn off my car it make a loud pop
@@ducducgoose thx I figured it out. I just switch the remote tap to accessories instead of left window ND it work. For some reason the power on ampwas still on, on the windows fuse. When the car was off
@@oodavidyyf8416 ah yes, I forgot. There's some residual power on the window when you turn the car is off. Tapping into the accessories fuse slot is the right way.
ANC is auto noise canceling, which send out a low frequency noise to cancel out other noise. We don't hear this cause the frequency it's playing at. This is a way to keep the cabin a little more quiet. That's why if you don't disable it, then it could interfere with your subwoofer based on the frequency it's playing at. Hope that helps.
@@ImChrisKardiac you can keep it stock with the method I showed in this video. What you will need to buy is a LOC( line out converter). You'll keep your stock radio and be able to add a subwoofer to your car.
Do you have the 7 speaker system with the small subwoofer between the 2 rear speakers? Would that subwoofer be better to tap into than the rear speakers?
@@ducducgoose so I ended up tapping into my factory subwoofer instead of the speakers for anyone with the 7 speaker system. I’m assuming it would still work if I tapped into the speakers instead.
@@Michael_Scarn556 it should work, the Line out converter (LOC) all it is doing is converting low frequency and feed that to the amp and output that to the sub.
So I hope someone can help before I go to a shop but I bought a Honda 2015 from my brother and he had sub woofers and amp installed and it worked great but just recently the speakers only have bass and I first thought it was a fuse or maybe a shortage.
If it was a fuse or shortage, then you wouldn't get any power to the speaker at all. I'm thinking the speakers might be the problem. I would check the setting on your head unit, make sure the bass isn't max out. Also is this happening on the front or rear speakers?
On my '16 you can wedge some rubbery weatherstripping in the spots the deck rests against the metal from underneath in the trunk (the OEM felt is not enough.) I also found that the far back corners on top rattled against the windshield at the point where the windshield, rear pillar, and plastic deck meet. You can use something thin like a screwdriver to wedge some rubber between the windshield and the plastic deck to prevent it from rattling. I had to do those 2 things just to get rid of the rattle from the wimpy stock subwoofer! Not sure how it would hold up against aftermarket. But I have been totally rattle free forever since I did this.
+Duc Le yes, I unplugged the ANC behind the head unit and disabled it in the radio. My subwoofer starts humming when I turn off my car and open the door.
Kevin Vo hey bro did you end up fixing your rattling? I did exactly what he's showing to do but im getting rattling when i turn off the car n open door too. I'm like i disconnected the ANC and it's still rattling. Pls help
When I turn on the car , the sub starts humming , after two or the thumps, it stops and everything works perfectly, what's causeing that , I plug the remote to a 7.5 fuse
Do you know which slot did you plug the remote wire to? I plugged mine to the rear power window, some one else tries the accessories and it works better.
Poor ground. He says in the video attach ground to cars chassis on these hondas there a sensor on the ground so the whole vehicle will not have a ground that supports any aftermarket installations
CaptainSpitz the RCA cable goes from the amp to the LOC and the kit gives you more than enough length. As for remote, power and ground cable, the kit I got gave me more than what I need to finish the job.
First of all tapping to the front speakers would required a lot of works, and it doesn't send out as much low frequency as the rear speakers. Front speakers are meant for mid-high frequency range. Second, the line out converter converts low frequency from the rear speakers into the amp which then power the subwoofer and convert that into bass. So it's better and easier to just tap to the rear speakers.
@@LeoF0F 😂 not really, all the places I took it to get it install they told me they couldn't do it unless they cut off the microphones and it could affect to make calls 🤷♂️.
Here is a checklist steps you can go through: 1) Check and make sure all connections are secured. 2) The Line Out Converter is grounded. 3) Line Out Converter is connected to the correct speakers positive and negative line. 4) Add a circuit fuse has two fuses installed, (it will not work if you only have one fuse installed) 5) Make sure your amp is turned on when you start the car. These are a basic steps you can check to see why your system isn't working. Good luck!
Hey Alex Ramos, I got it thru katzkin, which is a 3rd party company that does leather seats. I got it when buying my car thru the dealership and had them installed it as well since they gave me a discount for it. You can still order the seats and take it to a shop and have them install it for you. So far the quality has been awesome, I got it for 4 years now and the leather quality is still in great condition, as long as you take care of it.
JesusChristIsTheOnly TRUTH I bought mine when I bought the car so I had some discount. If you check Katzkin website they can give you an estimate for how much it cost.
zTeC Poseidon If you installed your fuse on the window slot that is most likely the problem. Somebody suggested using the cigarette lighter since that is only powered when the car is on. Makes sense since you can still roll windows down until a door is opened.
@@ducducgoose I didn't think you were still active and would even respond. I was referring to the grommet, mine was so high up! I'd say it was 8-12" from the top of the foot rest pedal. I have a 2015 EX-L Sedan though, so maybe placement is a little different?
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Thanks, I used this video to install my first amp/sub great guide.
Sushi your first try on an accord like this?
I have done many 90’s civics but I got a ‘16 touring and wouldn’t want to fuck anything up. Sometimes I just overthink stuff cuz I am actually pretty handy lol
This is a good video for adding a powered sub into the Honda Accord. I'd like the add a fuse jack so that you don't mess up the existing fused circuit. However, I'd do a few things every differently. First, I would not add the sub to the rear door, I would add that to the accessory fuse. This way, you won't mess up your rear powered door if the fuse is blown. Second, I would not route the positive power cable through the side wall of the car, I'd find another grommet on the firewall away from the car side so I don't have to send the power cable through the fender. I'd also route the power cable to the other side of the car away from the control wire to eliminate the magnetic interference to the control signal. I'd also keep this power cable away from the existing care wiring harness or wrap if with tape because it could get hot driving the amp. Third, I'd not tie the ground wire to the seat back bolt, this is NOT the proper ground point for the car. There is a proper vehicle ground bolt on the left or right side of the trunk, run the ground wire there or you risk loosing ground to the sub when the car bouncing on the road. Last but not least, spend money on a good mono amp or two channel amp that can be bridged mono, you don't want to have to go back to swap out the amp because it could not cut it. Finally, to get the most out of the amp, you may consider upgrading the car battery because this car has a wimpy battery. No matter how good your amp is, the weak link is always the power source. After over 20 years doing mods on my cars, I stopped doing it because I can afford better cars with kick ass factory sound system. How does one improve an 8 channels, 11 speakers system from the manufacturers?
thanks! actually answered about 5 questions between the video and comments
I know the video was posted some time ago, but I’m looking to install subs into my car with a line out converter. This video was a great help, thank you
You're welcome! I'm glad you find it helpful.
one of the best videos out there!!
+subie_cuhh Thanks!
Great guide. Finishing my installation today
great! hope the installation goes well!
awesome, thanks for making the video! It looks possible after watching.
Dude, you are awesome!! I didn't install a subwoofer, but I installed a radar detector with the receiver mounted underneath the license plate. I was going nuts trying to figure out how to get through the firewall until I found your video. Thanks a million!!
lol that firewall was no joke!
Great video dude
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome!
Great job explaining it an. Thank you.
@Duc Le ty for your post. I did everything init except now I need to make a change. The factory radio in the ex-l has a different signal so when I use the LOC it doesnt sound as good so I have to tap into the signal before the factory amp or else it doesnt sound very good even with my expensive upgrades.
I was able to drill two holes through the firewall on the drivers side with a uni-bit and 18" extension and run two 4 gauge wires to the battery (One for each amp). You just have to be careful and know where to drill. Here's a description of what I did for the installation in the below link:My goal was to install a great sounding audio system while retaining the factory head unit and keeping the car as stock looking as possible. The system consists of an Audio Control LCQ1 LOC under the passenger seat; JL HD1200/1 pushing a single JL 12W7 in an Audio Enhancers ported enclosure; JL HD600/4 pushing a pair of JL C5 650's in the doors and Focal PC 165's in the rear deck; JL HD-RLC volume controller in the center console (To control sub); VIAS GSR-02X SiriusXM Satellite Radio Interface; Optima yellow top battery. Custom polypropylene rings were made to fit the 6.5's in the stock speaker locations. Custom amp racks were fabricated to fit the amps in the corners of the trunk. All NVX wiring, cables, and fuse holders were used. Separate 4 AWG wires were home run to each amplifier from the battery. Also upgraded the factory grounds under the hood. I've had no issues with lights dimming or sound cutting out. Also note - I disabled the ANC Unit (Active Noise Cancelling Unit). This can be done by simply unplugging the unit. Do not attempt to disconnect the factory microphones as it is not necessary and you will most likely damage the headliner while doing so.th-cam.com/video/WP3I1ryCyng/w-d-xo.html
+TV Wiz Very clean indeed, great job!
+Duc Le Thank you. It sounds pretty awesome! I saw your video on how to add the courtesy lights in the doors using the dsub connectors. Worked like a charm!
+TV Wiz thanks I tried to share what I do to my car so other can do it too. :D
+Duc Le I've seen quite a few of your videos. They are very helpful!
Great video bro
Good video thanks
nice n clean job
Thanks!
Where did you buy the foot rest and pedals at?
for your ground cable I saw you add it to a nut that's in the back seat .where there is an existing ground. there no Interference
Very good start, just a few pointers and thoughts to make it better.
I do what I can with a stock head unit. If there's another method please show me your way.
@@ducducgoose www.driveaccord.net/threads/final-solution-active-noise-cancelling-feedback-and-aftermarket-audio.415113/
@@Leviathanas1well the more you learn. By no mean I'm an audio expert, but this method works for me and it sounds better than before with the extra bass.
@@ducducgoose problem with what you did, you don't get any bass. You only get mid signal from it. The only way to get anything is by this method. Also, your method lacks enough signal output to do it right as well. Just pointing it out as it seems so many people have done this wrong. I'm an audio engineer and don't mind helping out.
@@Leviathanas1 gotcha, I'll look thru the thread and make the adjustments needed. Surprisingly the setup I have still produce a decent amount of bass.
When you unplug the ANC from the head unit, are you still able to use the handsfree talk system? Or does unplugging it make the microphones useless?
Handfree system work as usual. ANC will not affect it.
i have the same car. pluged it in #3 fuse which is turn on/off key, it was empty when i did it. works great, try it wiyhout tapping into windows fuses. also i used 7.5 amp no need for more 20 is way too much
That's good to hear that your method works. I used 20amp because it was what the power window uses so I wanted to have the same amp rating.
@@joetheschmoe492 on your add a circuit did you add one fuse or 2? I believe there are 2 slots on the add a circuit and it requires 2 fuses.
@@joetheschmoe492 if you're using slot #3 then it only need 7.5a fuse.
You dont need to remove fender liner. Just pop out the grommet and push a hanger thru. tape wire on to it feed thru, then put the grommet on the inside and slide it up. Pretty simple.
I followed this video for my install on my 2015 Accord. I was instructed by Crutchfield to use fuse #37 which is 7.5 amps. My amp seems to be powering up just fine. But I am not getting anything from the subwoofers themselves. So I am guessing 7.5 is enough - as it is only telling the amp to turn on, correct? I think I have a poor connection with the connecters I used for the rear speakers/ Line out converter.
Dan R that could be a possibility, if that doesn't work try a different fuse slot with higher amp and see. Good luck!
Thanks Duc Le for sharing the video. Long weekend coming up and I'm planning on using the 3 days to upgrade my sound system. What I'm not clear about is how did you connect your amp back to the Head unit? Is the Head unit going straight to your front L/R and Rear L/R speakers and the amp is only being used for the sub? I have a 2014 EXL with navi currently equipped with the 7 speaker Premium setup which I find lacking and the OEM sub rattles like crazy- I'm trying to plan everything out by trying to order the proper equipment. I too will be using a JL sub in a box much like what you have. One of my options is to bypass the factory amp and run the speaker cables back to the trunk where the amp will be. I will need a line-out converter though near the Head unit so that the RCA cables can go back to the amp. Also does the add-a-circuit turn on the amp when the car is turned on or does the amp turn on/off when the radio is turned on and off? Thanks!!
Hi R C, thanks for stopping by my channel. To answer your question I am not connecting to the OEM headunit.
What I did was I have the amp lead wire connect to the add-a-circuit which is connect to the fuse right under the driver side (this way the amp can turn on when you start the car). Then the power cable runs from the amp to the battery to get power. In order to get signal to the amp and then to the sub you would use a line-out-converter (LOC) to get that signal. The LOC will have 5 wires. 1 set for the left channel, 1 set for the right channel, and 1 ground cable. So what I did was I use a quick-connector and connect the LOC left channel to the left rear speaker, you will have to find which wire is positive and which one is negative. Then do the same for the right channel to the rear right speaker. Finally the LOC will have an RCA cable that you connect to the amp.
Here is a link of a quick schematic that I put together. Hopefully this makes more sense lol.
docs.google.com/drawings/d/1GxBs1Vg9YztS0a3x2Ilaf7KfesrXv3O_NyMBLBHZfnU/edit?usp=sharing
Thanks again Duc Le for the additional info. I think I understand how you approached your setup. I'm looking at getting that JL sub and an Amp with enough power to supply the current stock speakers/ JL sub as well as allow headroom for aftermarket speakers in the future. I can disconnect at the factory amp input, add the LOC and then 9-wire the 4 speakers and run back to the aftermarket amp. From there, I can finish-off power and fuse connection on the amp.
sounds good! Good luck with the installation!
did the exact same setup only question is do I need to strip the rear speaker wires? I have the quick connectors but my sub isn't hitting and the sub is fairly new
No need, with the quick connector you don't have to strip or splice any wires. Just attach two wires together with the quick connector and you're good to go.
Which of the rear speaker do you tap into? My accord has a red and yellow cables connected to the harness and have two solders on the ends. What exactly would I tap in to? It's a 16 lx
Sorry, I can't quiet remember which color was positive and which was negative. I would have to check it tomorrow and see.
What do you use to tap into the speaker
where did you buy the foot rest and pedals?
I bought them on eBay. I've made a video review of the pedals in another video.
where did you buy your steel pedal accord? Tnx
Hey great video. Do you have to connect to both rear speakers? I have a factory sub and want to just connect the line out converter to that. Will that work? Or do you have to connect to the rear speakers?
hey Jared if you have a factory sub you should be able to connect your aftermarket sub to your factory sub using your line out converter I believe.
Where did you buy the adapter
Do u lose the rear speakers when u tap into them to hook up the loc for the sub? Or do u still get sound from the tears?
The rear speakers still works with this setup.
Hey bro thanks for the vid, what loc did you use? A good one or just any loc
Thanks man, I just grab a generic LOC from advance Auto, or any local automotive parts store
what size wire did you run to the second rear speaker to make it long enough to connect to the LOC
i believe it was 14 gauge
on the rear deck speakers which cable is the positive and negative
I believe black is negative and red is positive.
You should do a video on installing tweeters and just buying the tweeter assembly from the ex model or higher
Sounds like a good idea, I'll keep that in mind. Thanks!
Hey. I appreciate the video. Helped me a lot. Almost done with my set up. Just one thing. I can't get the power cable to the battery through the grommet you recommended. It seems like it's just coiling and I can't see it. I tried multiple times. You mentioned moving the wheel well in your video. How do I go about doing that? If I could find a vid on that my job would be done.
Hey McKirven, so what you want to do is turn your wheel to the right. Then look under the wheel well and you should see some tabs that's holding the wheel well plastic. You want to remove those tab so that way you have an easier access to the cable. To be honest it was really difficult for me at first as well, it took several tries before I managed to route the cable through. I highly recommend another person helping you out with running the power cable to the battery. Good luck with the install!
I actually took off one tab that was sorta like inverted into the wheel well and shoved my hand(which I have a rather large hand) and fed the wire up and used my other hand to grab it and pull it out. Took like 5mins
I like the vid but if you tap your woofers into the rear speakers aren't you lowering the ohms that the amp channel is going to see? So let's say 4ohm deck and sub speakers would equal 2ohms at the amp?
Nevermind...I see. Tap the oem speaker wire for signal to rca and then wire sub to amp channel. Looks like I am getting one. Thanks!!!
For the "add a circuit" set up where do you splice it into?
I plugged it into a fuse slot under the driver seat. Use the accessory slot. You can find it in the owner's manual to figure out which slot it is.
Hello Duc, I have Honda Accord 2013. Can I use power, remote wire and earth wire from the loc straight to amps earth, remote and power wire port. Instead of using different spot to earth Loc and use my remote wire from fuse to the Amp. Thanks.
Jassi I don't think it works like that. My set up is LOC will tap to the two rear speakers and ground the wire from the LOC to the car. I have the power from the car battery to the amp. The remote wire goes from the fuse the the amp. I hope that make sense.
I used the rear left window fuse for remote on but I found out that if you drive awhile the window still works after being turned off and the sub would go full volumne and emite just bass. I used the 7.5 accessory fuse for the 12v sockets and it has fixed the problem
So i plug the power wire from the line in converter into the window fuse or the remote to the amp to the window fuse ?
@@dwreck3029You must connect the remote wire to the fuse for the cigarette lighter, the remote wire tells the amp when to turn on, the cigarette lighter is only on when the cars on so its perfect. Do not use the window fuse it will cause problems with the amp turning on when the cars off
i might of missed it in the video. did you use stock or aftermarket stereo? thanks
carlos acevedo stock head unit
Have you upgraded your stock battery and if so what did you go to?
I did not upgrade my battery, although I might upgrade.
how do you keep the rear deck from rattling? My JL W3's make it shake hard it sounds like shit inside
I would look into sound deadening material.
Hi, where did you connect your amp to your factory head unit?
I have it mounted to the back of the subwoofer box.
why remove the wheel well when u can just use the close hanger to fish it through
did u use speaker converters for rear stock subs
The sport model doesn't have a rear stock sub. I've purchased a line out converter and tap to the two rear speakers to get the signal for my sub.
you still active? installing my subs and looking into ELD, the system that manages the alternator output and limits your battery to 12.5 volts. I am putting in a 2nd battery and big 3 and am nervous there will be an issue with the ELD limiting alternator to 12.5 volts and bypassing the battery management with the big 3... any experience?
Would it be a surprise that I'm still active? Lol
To answer your concern I honestly don't know about ELD limiting. Your best bet is probably visiting the accord forum and ask on there. Or you can always try it out and share your result. I'm sure someone will find it useful in the future.
Hi Duc, nice tutorial. What size/gauge power cord did you use? Gonna give this a shot. Hope I don't screw it up. How long did this take you?
Brad Hatch I want to say it was 4 gauge, and it took about 1.5 hrs or so
Hi Duc, thanks for the reply. Do you have a tutorial on installing an amp fuse to the battery?
Brad Hatch I actually don't have a tutorial for that. There should be plenty of videos on TH-cam that can show you how to do that.
Hey, where are your custom pedals from?
I bought it on eBay, there's a review video that I've made for it. I think I might included a link if I remembered.
thanks dood!
Hey hows it going Duc Le, as always i enjoy all the video you make, helps me alot and gives me confidence is doing things to my 2015 accord sport, before i would be just like you, going out and just doing it but since I've became a quadriplegic (although i can walk and still use both hands), I get scared at times that if i start something and I can't finish it.
My question today is regarding audio system in my 2015 accord sport, is it possible to use the stock radio from a 2015 accord ex and put it in my car without any custom wiring, I know it will fit physically but would it be a plug n play install.
Thank you so much for your time and God Bless you and your family
john k
john jkizer thanks John! Sorry to hear about your situation. However, that doesn't mean you aren't able to achieve greater things. it means a lot to me that these videos are helping you out.
Regarding to your question. You are able to use the stock head unit (radio) to install your subwoofer. I believe the ex trim doesn't have the stock subwoofer in the rear, if so you can follow the steps in this video to install your subwoofer. I wish you the best of luck, and feel free to let me know if you have any other question. I usually reply to comment pretty quick. Good luck!
What's the rattling noise I have the same one n I dnt know what it is already screwed my license plate good
That rattling noise is because I haven't put everything back yet. I want to test the system out before putting everything back just in case something didn't go right.
How many RMS is this amp? Have you experienced any voltage drops/dimming?
I don't remember the RMS, but it's a Rockford Fostgate Prime model and it was a 500watts amp. I didn't experience any voltage drop or dimming. There's also a knob control that I run from the amp up to where the shift knob was so I can control how much bass I want and I have it at maybe 1/5 of the way and had plenty of bass to fill the car.
would a 28x14x14 box fit in my honda accord 2009 trunk tightly in the back? I don't want the box to block the way to the extra tire space.
Looking at your dimension, I think it might partially covering the spare tire space. I made my box really shallow and it stills cover half of my spare tire. Then again I'm using somewhat thick subwoofer, if you get a shallow subwoofer you might be able to save more space in the trunk.
Thanks, I decided to just get a single 12 inch instead of 2 10 inches. Its a rockford fosgate punch p3 btw, I will keep you updated.
+Tony Tran awesome! I have an older model JL W1, and even that my box still takes up a good amount of space lol. Good luck on the install!
did you have to disconnect the mic's so you don't get back motor noise?
yes I disconnected the ANC
i saw you have the illuminated door sills did you do them yourself?
+nfsjay32 Yes I did and I've made a tutorial video on how to install them as well.
What kind of line out converter did you buy
I don't quiet remember, I think I got it at a local automotive store.
I have a 2014 accord lx I was wondering can I use a speaker wire harness to connect the LOC instead of splicing the both rear speakers. This model doesn't have the stock sub.
you can use quick connectors and tap from the LOC wires to the rear speakers wires. This method is less risky as you won't be cutting or splicing.
Old post but if you upgrade your rear deck speakers you can use an after market connector and solder in an extra set of wires 1 set to the speaker and one to the loc. If you plan to add a highs amp then just use the connector to the loc and speaker wire from the amp to the speaker
bsmb091011 B can u send a link for the connector your talking about?
I really like your video thanks for all the helpfull info. I have a problem on mine , i did the same on my car but i have a 2014 manual accord, i have lot of interference in mine , i hear the sound of the engine in the subwoofer on the iddle and as soon as the car is in low rpm. Does anyone bad the same problem , i really cant find what it can be .
You're welcome, I think a few thing you can check is whether you disabled the ANC. There's video on how to do that.
what is the rattle from? the license plate?
+ZovieHD Because I still have the backseat down just in case if it didn't work I can go back to check what's wrong before putting everything back together.
what kind of amp kit did you use???
I went to a local automotive store and picked up an amp kit. I can't remember which brand it was, but it had enough to power my amp.
Did you locate the factory amp on your car ?
I did not.
hey, are you controlling the subs from the factory headunit?
Yes, I'm using a line out converter to get the signal to the sub
how do you remove the wheel well?
It should be held by a few screws. Turn your wheel to the side you can have better access.
I guess adding a circuit is smarter then just tapping the remote wire to the accessory fuse lol. What did you do to disable the ANC?
I physically removed the ANC harness behind the dash. You can youtube how to disable ANC from other youtubers. Should takes about 5 min to do.
What does desabling the ANC is for?
Does your car make a loud pop noise when turning off car.. my loc2 is kicker brand and it has a remote wire that yours doesn't. Every time I turn off my car it make a loud pop
I do not get any popping sound when I turn off the car.
@@ducducgoose thx I figured it out. I just switch the remote tap to accessories instead of left window ND it work. For some reason the power on ampwas still on, on the windows fuse. When the car was off
@@oodavidyyf8416 ah yes, I forgot. There's some residual power on the window when you turn the car is off. Tapping into the accessories fuse slot is the right way.
any dash messages after? I have a 16 an I'm planning on doing the same thing
No error at all with this method.
+Duc Le hey man I connected everything like u did but the amp plays a low note when I turn the car off but then it turns off when I open any door
what brand is the line out converter
Hey Carlos I got the Line Out Converter at O'riely Auto Parts.
What’s does disabling the amc do?
ANC is auto noise canceling, which send out a low frequency noise to cancel out other noise. We don't hear this cause the frequency it's playing at. This is a way to keep the cabin a little more quiet. That's why if you don't disable it, then it could interfere with your subwoofer based on the frequency it's playing at. Hope that helps.
I gota 2015 accord coupe. Im wondering if i remove the radio what do I connect it to in the back of it? Is that what the cross over box is for?
The stock radio won't have any output for a subwoofer. The only way you get that is if you install an aftermarket radio.
@@ducducgoose any way to keep it stock? Add an adapter?
@@ImChrisKardiac you can keep it stock with the method I showed in this video. What you will need to buy is a LOC( line out converter). You'll keep your stock radio and be able to add a subwoofer to your car.
@@ducducgoose perfect jus got one.
@@ImChrisKardiac nice! Good luck with the install!
Is that a micro 2 fuse add on you used?
I believe so
Do you have the 7 speaker system with the small subwoofer between the 2 rear speakers? Would that subwoofer be better to tap into than the rear speakers?
I have the sport model so it didn't come with a 7 speakers system.
@@ducducgoose so I ended up tapping into my factory subwoofer instead of the speakers for anyone with the 7 speaker system. I’m assuming it would still work if I tapped into the speakers instead.
@@Michael_Scarn556 it should work, the Line out converter (LOC) all it is doing is converting low frequency and feed that to the amp and output that to the sub.
Hey, where did you get those seat covers from ? can you share the link ?
Mohit Bachhav it's from a company called katzkin. When I purchase the car I had the dealer contact katzkin and have it installed for me.
Nice. Thanks :) :)
So I hope someone can help before I go to a shop but I bought a Honda 2015 from my brother and he had sub woofers and amp installed and it worked great but just recently the speakers only have bass and I first thought it was a fuse or maybe a shortage.
If it was a fuse or shortage, then you wouldn't get any power to the speaker at all. I'm thinking the speakers might be the problem. I would check the setting on your head unit, make sure the bass isn't max out. Also is this happening on the front or rear speakers?
*no interference?
Where can I find the adjustable line output converter ?
I got mine at O'riely Auto parts, but you should be able to find it at your local automotive store. Just ask the worker about it.
I've been looking for it online. Can't seem to find it. But thanks.
Where did you get the connecter for the fuse panel? can you send me a link?
+Darin Hill you can find them on amazon. They are low profile add a fuse.
Thanks.
It rattles my rear deck when bass is present... any tips on how to fix this problem?
27JDub27 use sound deadening material. You can TH-cam on how to do that.
On my '16 you can wedge some rubbery weatherstripping in the spots the deck rests against the metal from underneath in the trunk (the OEM felt is not enough.) I also found that the far back corners on top rattled against the windshield at the point where the windshield, rear pillar, and plastic deck meet. You can use something thin like a screwdriver to wedge some rubber between the windshield and the plastic deck to prevent it from rattling. I had to do those 2 things just to get rid of the rattle from the wimpy stock subwoofer! Not sure how it would hold up against aftermarket. But I have been totally rattle free forever since I did this.
What type of converter should I use for 2 subwoofers? Do I tap the rear speakers only?
If you're using the stock head unit, there isn't any sub output. You will have to tap to the rear speakers.
Thank you for your reply. For 4 channels do I need 2 converters? For front and rear speakers?
@@user-qp5qx8zp4y I'm not too familiar with multiple speakers setup, but I think most use a crossover to handle that.
What is the cable you used to connect to the remote wire
+Daraine Harris Are you talking about the red cable? If so then that is an add-a-circuit cable.
+Duc Le Yeah, thanks
I installed my subwoofer, but when I turn off my car, the subwoofer is still rattling. How would I fix that??
+Kevin Vo have you disable/disconnect the ANC that's located behind the head unit?
+Duc Le yes, I unplugged the ANC behind the head unit and disabled it in the radio. My subwoofer starts humming when I turn off my car and open the door.
+Kevin Vo which fuse slot did you connect the wire to under the driver dash? I connect mine to the rear power window.
Kevin Vo hey bro did you end up fixing your rattling? I did exactly what he's showing to do but im getting rattling when i turn off the car n open door too. I'm like i disconnected the ANC and it's still rattling. Pls help
Cant use windows.. they still have power when car is off. U have to use another slot
What JL sub is that?
+Donald Sun It's an old model 12W1 sub.
When I turn on the car , the sub starts humming , after two or the thumps, it stops and everything works perfectly, what's causeing that , I plug the remote to a 7.5 fuse
Do you know which slot did you plug the remote wire to? I plugged mine to the rear power window, some one else tries the accessories and it works better.
Watch "Installing a Subwoofer on a honda Accord (ANC Disable)" on TH-cam
th-cam.com/video/emNW755Hvgg/w-d-xo.html
10:08
Poor ground. He says in the video attach ground to cars chassis on these hondas there a sensor on the ground so the whole vehicle will not have a ground that supports any aftermarket installations
How much speaker wire and RCA cable wire did you need?
CaptainSpitz the RCA cable goes from the amp to the LOC and the kit gives you more than enough length. As for remote, power and ground cable, the kit I got gave me more than what I need to finish the job.
ok koo! Thanks for your response
Are your leather seats heated?
Yep, I got it installed when I upgraded to leather seats
Doesn't the front speakers give more bass? Why not tap into those
First of all tapping to the front speakers would required a lot of works, and it doesn't send out as much low frequency as the rear speakers. Front speakers are meant for mid-high frequency range.
Second, the line out converter converts low frequency from the rear speakers into the amp which then power the subwoofer and convert that into bass. So it's better and easier to just tap to the rear speakers.
how did you tap into the rear speakers? i can’t see it close enough in this video
I tapped to the wire that is connected to the rear speakers using quick connectors
Duc Le thanks, can you provide a link where i can get the ones you used?
@@claytonsterchi534 if you search on eBay for "quick connectors wire" you should get plenty of products for you to choose.
I did the same thing but it's not pushing any bass out to my subs. helppp!
Is your amp on? Check your lead wire
@@ducducgoose yes it is on! it pushes out sound but no bass. just high if I switch it to high output. but no bass after trying multiple settings
When I have all my doors closed, my sub sound goes out and it starts to hum. What may be the issue
Hi did you figure out the issue ?
@@mxnshadow did you?
@@LeoF0F 😂 not really, all the places I took it to get it install they told me they couldn't do it unless they cut off the microphones and it could affect to make calls 🤷♂️.
Could I use the same method for a 2016 sport?
You should be able to.
Duc Le appreciate it
Hey Bro will this work for 2017 Accord 4dr sedan, EX-L
jay syed yep, I believe the EX-L had a stock rear subwoofer, you can tap from LOC to the subwoofer instead of tapping into the two rear speakers.
Duc Le ok I'll try this thanks
You also say no need to cut wires, how exactly did you do that?
using quick connectors. You can find those at automotive stores.
+Duc Le thanks I'll check it out...
no problem man, good luck with the install.
what do u connect the two 20 amp fuses to
I used "add a circuit fuse" and from there I connect it to my rear power windows fuse which is located under the driver side.
@@ducducgoose DOES IT MATTER IF IT IS A MINI ADD A CIRCUT FUSE?
@@thomasboi305 I'm not sure, might need to check on clearance and see if it fits
i did the steps but no sound coming from the sub is there something i miss
Here is a checklist steps you can go through:
1) Check and make sure all connections are secured.
2) The Line Out Converter is grounded.
3) Line Out Converter is connected to the correct speakers positive and negative line.
4) Add a circuit fuse has two fuses installed, (it will not work if you only have one fuse installed)
5) Make sure your amp is turned on when you start the car.
These are a basic steps you can check to see why your system isn't working.
Good luck!
+Duc Le thx..
Hey Duc !!! Will this work for honda accors lx 2014 ?
Kee Truong it should work for that trim as well.
Duc Le thank you very much ... can you please help me list out all the required equipments that you used ?
Duc Le oops nevermind i found it at 0:10
why 2 20amp fuses?
I don't have a lot of knowledge in electrical system, but you need two because one is to power the rear window and one is to power the sub.
Hey buddy where did you get the leather seats?
Hey Alex Ramos, I got it thru katzkin, which is a 3rd party company that does leather seats. I got it when buying my car thru the dealership and had them installed it as well since they gave me a discount for it. You can still order the seats and take it to a shop and have them install it for you. So far the quality has been awesome, I got it for 4 years now and the leather quality is still in great condition, as long as you take care of it.
Duc Le how much if you dont mind?
JesusChristIsTheOnly TRUTH I bought mine when I bought the car so I had some discount. If you check Katzkin website they can give you an estimate for how much it cost.
My subs make a very deep bass sound when my doors are closed, but when I open it it stops. Why is that?
zTeC Poseidon If you installed your fuse on the window slot that is most likely the problem. Somebody suggested using the cigarette lighter since that is only powered when the car is on. Makes sense since you can still roll windows down until a door is opened.
zTeC Poseidon I have the same problem as you, did you solve it?
zTeC Poseidon if you didn’t figure it out it’s your noise canceling. You have to disable it
I'm sure you already answered this multiple times, but where are the ports under the driver side panels?
What port are you referring to? Is it the plastic grommet? If so it's towards the back close to the foot rest pedal.
@@ducducgoose I didn't think you were still active and would even respond. I was referring to the grommet, mine was so high up! I'd say it was 8-12" from the top of the foot rest pedal. I have a 2015 EX-L Sedan though, so maybe placement is a little different?
@@souk9292 lol I'm still pretty active. Glad you've found the grommet!
Appreciate it!