41:38 Your synchros are on the more warn out side for 1-2… Try double clutching that 1-2 upshift, if you double clutch it should make that 1-2 upshift smooth as butter. Your doing the work for the synchros and taking them out of play when you double clutch…
Also try to learn double clutching on those “casual downshifts” it makes downshifting almost perfectly smooth. At about 44:07 you double blipped because of the timing of the slower downshift, in that time of the double blip you could have just double clutched. Ideally you should be double clutching in every downshift (even when heal toeing). After a few years of really practicing with it the double clutch downshift will make it was easier to make engine speed to gear box and basically eliminate and “jolt” from not having a perfectly matched down shift. That’s how I drove on the track anyways back 15 years ago when I did a little PCA and SCCA racing. I just double clutched my downshifts and it also allowed me to not have to run through the gears on the way down (just double clutch 5-3 or 5-2, whatever gear your going down to)…
I fitted my brass bushes today. Couple of things that might be helpful to others. I used the freezer and hot water trick, worked a treat. The cold brass bushes pressed into the hot housing very easily 👌 The marks in the middle of the shaft are there for a reason, the shaft is staked in the middle so that when it's pressed in it will not rotate in the hole of the splined part. There are three grooves in the bushes, these lineup with the staked lines in the pin, so make sure you align them when you press in the pin to avoid the staked sections making grooves in the brass bushes. Hope that makes sense 😬 Thanks for the video, was very useful 💪
Instead of seating the bronze bushings in completely, couldn’t you tap it back closer to the rod to eliminate the play? The shim seem like it would wear out
Good question. The splined shaft only travels a few degrees in each direction, is lubed, and the bushings aren't pressed in very tight so I wouldn't expect it to wear too quickly. I would have liked a bigger OD on the shim so that it has a bigger contact area with the brass surface but only time will tell. Your suggestion is definitely worth a try because the bushings are also not under tremendous axial load either so I don't think they would move very easily once you squeeze them against the splined shaft to take the slop out.
I replaced my crumbling bushings with the standard plastic replacements so it was nice to see a superior option in your vid. Also to anyone who might be curious, here's a link to the "helicopter" coupler option JE mentions: th-cam.com/video/MZIvrS-pZQw/w-d-xo.html
Hi, Great video, actually it is the best DIY video ! ! ! Where did you buy the bushings ? I checked and i found them for $55 at Pelican & 45 on ebay. Also, would you say the shims make a big difference ? Thanks in advance.
@ 6;55 you can heat ( try BOILING in water) the housing and put the Bronze Coupler Bushings in the freezer overnight they should slide right in.
Thanks. Might give that a shot on my extra coupler next time.
41:38
Your synchros are on the more warn out side for 1-2…
Try double clutching that 1-2 upshift, if you double clutch it should make that 1-2 upshift smooth as butter. Your doing the work for the synchros and taking them out of play when you double clutch…
Also try to learn double clutching on those “casual downshifts” it makes downshifting almost perfectly smooth. At about 44:07 you double blipped because of the timing of the slower downshift, in that time of the double blip you could have just double clutched. Ideally you should be double clutching in every downshift (even when heal toeing). After a few years of really practicing with it the double clutch downshift will make it was easier to make engine speed to gear box and basically eliminate and “jolt” from not having a perfectly matched down shift.
That’s how I drove on the track anyways back 15 years ago when I did a little PCA and SCCA racing. I just double clutched my downshifts and it also allowed me to not have to run through the gears on the way down (just double clutch 5-3 or 5-2, whatever gear your going down to)…
Seriously, you make the best DIY videos for Porsche enthusiasts out there.
I fitted my brass bushes today.
Couple of things that might be helpful to others.
I used the freezer and hot water trick, worked a treat. The cold brass bushes pressed into the hot housing very easily 👌
The marks in the middle of the shaft are there for a reason, the shaft is staked in the middle so that when it's pressed in it will not rotate in the hole of the splined part. There are three grooves in the bushes, these lineup with the staked lines in the pin, so make sure you align them when you press in the pin to avoid the staked sections making grooves in the brass bushes. Hope that makes sense 😬
Thanks for the video, was very useful 💪
Again , thanks for the info Joe , your advice is as usual spot on !!!
16:25
Wouldn’t this play be taken care of once the pin is put back in? And sorry if this is answered 10 minutes later in the video lol
Any noise transmission to the cabin?
None that I could detect and I have a full interior.
@@JoeEngineer thanks for the reply. Good to hear 🙂
Instead of seating the bronze bushings in completely, couldn’t you tap it back closer to the rod to eliminate the play? The shim seem like it would wear out
Good question. The splined shaft only travels a few degrees in each direction, is lubed, and the bushings aren't pressed in very tight so I wouldn't expect it to wear too quickly. I would have liked a bigger OD on the shim so that it has a bigger contact area with the brass surface but only time will tell. Your suggestion is definitely worth a try because the bushings are also not under tremendous axial load either so I don't think they would move very easily once you squeeze them against the splined shaft to take the slop out.
I replaced my crumbling bushings with the standard plastic replacements so it was nice to see a superior option in your vid. Also to anyone who might be curious, here's a link to the "helicopter" coupler option JE mentions: th-cam.com/video/MZIvrS-pZQw/w-d-xo.html
Your bushings were “melted”…
Well, mine are missing…. Lol
Hi,
Great video, actually it is the best DIY video ! ! !
Where did you buy the bushings ?
I checked and i found them for $55 at Pelican & 45 on ebay.
Also, would you say the shims make a big difference ?
Thanks in advance.
I think Pelican. The shims helped me make it as tight as possible but they are not mandatory.