Don't be to hard on yourself,you've got a lot going on in your life. Content is content for the watcher,you do solid,good quality work and it's a pleasure just to share in what you're doing.
Kyle I always enjoy your little bits of insight at the end of your vids, im right there with you sometimes my actions don't match what I say I want and I do need to check myself as well, not only to get to where I want but also to keep all the progress I have already made
My actions have never matched what I want but sometimes I 'trip through the door' into what I want...with not much idea of how I got there...Just remember you have that 'Young Hustler' sticker for inspiration and that it is you who have made this channel for what it is. Think you have got some way 'down the road' to where you want to be and from where `I am sat(I should be 'doing work, Son) you seem to be going in the right direction...the biggest changes that are needed in life are of motivation, focus and a rough idea of direction...Think you are on the way there...Keep 'plug'(welding) away, Kyle...consistency is key....you have that is spades...
In the past my actions haven’t matched my goals but I’m working on changing that. The saying, “hard work pays off” has been ringing true with me lately. Great advice as always man.
As always another powerful message in the last few minutes. Something to make me think about and to keep me motivated. A new motto for me "do my actions match what I really want?" Thank you so much for the messages you keep sharing! Now, I do need to go do some work "son" so my actions will equal what I want and that is for my business to not just survive but to grow exponentially starting tomorrow when I open the doors to my shop at 8:00 am and everyday beyond that!
What if you built a cross bar between the strut towers? That is: connect both strut towers to each other, but sweep way down in front of the engine. You could even triangulate it into the structure below. Also could possibly integrate the turbo mount into it ( like a maven performance style mount) for a really clean look. Could make it multi functional. Just a thought. I’ve got to admit, when this build started, I thought it would be awful. But I really like the car now. It’s gonna be a really cool cruiser. 👍🏻👍🏻
I think we're all guilty of being complacent towards our goals. I know I am at times. It's easy to lose sight of the end goal through all the daily shit. Keep trucking along, you'll get there. Just have to remind yourself of the goal, and find motivation any way you can. Fake it til you make it.
Sexy features in that chassis! I hear you.. I spent $5k on a Dynasty 210DX because I wanted the "best." Rationalized it with I'll bring to market specific motorsports parts that I need to make and therefore a niche market is there. Haven't brought those goals much closer to reality yet. 😂
I think we all struggle with following through. Just keep at it, slow and steady. I have been working on 3 separate projects for the better part of this year. I could have had all of them done by now had I stayed focused...but I keep chipping away at them. Persistents is what's important.
Everywhere you look on this build it could be a desktop screensaver. Fabrication, welding, and engineering porn. Also, big fan of the more frequent videos containing less content, if you know what I mean. What you mentioned last video. You get X amount done, you show it, instead of a weeks worth edited down. Thanks for the sweet content.
I'm going to have to agree with you on that question Kyle. I have goals, and at the start I'm all gun hoe, then I will start to taper off. I have to constantly check myself, but I think that's natural. It's the fact that you do check yourself to get back on track that tells you that you really do want to achieve those goals. Glad to see everything coming alone, and your babies are getting big!! It's cool to see them grow through the videos.
I'm diggin it! Gonna need more tire. I've always dreamed of things and keep working at it until it happens. I call it ... making your dreams come true. I'm all in!
The difference between a blower and a strut brace is one is a static load, the other is a dynamic load. If you hit a pothole or any kind of serious bump the motor will move (Putting constant stress load on the engine mounts, since they are the point of least resistance), which in turn is still going to move the other side suspension. Maybe not as bad as joining directly side to side but it will still move. You could try X down to the lower front chassis rail (since it needs to be fixed up anyway).
Can’t wait to see this car roll on its own power ! As for the heads moving, I can’t see it. Especially if you use a plate. Could you not tie that in with your turbo support and back down to the lower cross member for even more rigidity? Just a thought. I believe you mentioned that yesterday. Would quiet down those that oppose your ideas. Anywho, GREAT to see you posting car progress this week. I know it’s tough being summer and all. Enjoy !
Why don't you build a "control arm" that mounts to each control arm on the top. Weld a bracket to fit heim joints on each control arm and bend the bar either above or below the turbo intake manifold piping? It'll add stability through cornering almost like a sway bar but still maintaining an more independent feel? That way you can avoid mounting it to the front of the motor and taking up unnecessary room for the belt driven parts. Just a thought
Ever thought about building some sort of strut tower brace to tie the front end together instead of mounting a tube to the block? Or possibly incorporate both. I’m sure you’ll figure it out.
Hey Kyle. Thanks for the inspirational words. I have only been a sub for a couple months and your words have brought me out of the funk I was in thank you so much. DO WORK SON.
Why not run a heimed tube from the tops of your "shock towers" down towards the center where the turbo is? That would control the inward movement, and you'd have a place to mount headights!
Its easy to get side tracked or burnt out, I have been liquidating my toys because over the last 5-6 years I have been buying way more projects then finishing them. Its hard to treat your work at home like your job, but to be successful and get what you want you really need to do so. I always get mad at myself because at work I can be very anal and always do the best job I can, but at home I rush and end up paying the price.
2 questions; 1 Doesn't the front of the Bibster go up and down ? Which means your stiffener will have to some how go with the movement? 2 If you want to mount braces off the heads do like they do on Formula Atlantic or Fords. Integrate a structure off the heads with spacers and long bolts to the heads and then run your stiffeners off that. You could also mount the head lights etc off the structure. Make the structure out of formed or bent tubing to go with the rest of the build
First I will answer the last question. No, because my actions, and probably your's, are driven by gut/emotion, while what I say I want is intellectualized and lives in another bubble. Don't worry about getting sidetracked cause that is how you 'discover' stuff and it also gets you to stop fixating on what you work on and step back to it later with a fresh outlook. All good and win/win if you embrace it for it's positive outcome. Also, I really like the new format of more frequent videos that are not too 'produced' or edited and just give an update on what's in progress. Nice to see your work a little more often. Also 2, if the Bibster was mine I'd find another way to brace the front, maybe crossed bars to the far side of the chassis, rather than connecting to the engine. It's one thing to use the motor as a stressed member in a motorcyle and totally another in a performance car that may generate more than one G of lateral force in cornering. Just a thought, and sorry to be so wordy. Love your content and look for it every day.
Kyle, look, your upper mount of the hydraylic cylinder has a certain path, it's a circle around the pivot axle of the longtitudinal lever. The end of your planned transverse lever will also have it's path - another circle, wich is smaller than the first one and lies in another plane. This way you're trying to make the cylinder mount to follow two different paths, wich will result in lever and chassis flex. I suppose it won't function properly.
back when i use to street race a 68 cougar with a sbf ever time i would spray the car it would rip the stock motor mounts (i was to cheap to solids at the time ) but i ran a chain with a turn buckle from the head to the frame i was hitting it a 300 shot and that head never moved
10 out of 10 for honesty dude :) I'm in the same boat but sometime like with my car project I think my dreams and goals for it are greater that my ability,,,,,still cracking on with it tho :)
Good progress! "Do work, son!" Just a bit of commentary ... Front hubs - pack the hub with a film of grease between the outer bearing races to provide a "reservoir" of bearing grease so that when the grease gets hot and thins out the grease which was packed in the roller bearings doesn't migrate to the hub between the bearings and cause them to run dry. That is an effect of "grease" called "shear thinning". Centrifugal force can be a bitch; the taper of the bearing inner and outer races can / will funnel semi-liquefied grease into the hubs if they are empty of grease. One mistake with all new parts many years ago was all it took for me to learn that lesson; growl in the front wheel bearings 3 months after a front drum to disc conversion on a '67 RS SS Camaro. But you don't pack the hub tight with grease, there has to be room for expansion as the volume of grease "increases" as it warms up. You don't want that "chamber" too full and have the hot grease "pop" the dust cap or blow inwards past the grease seal. Yeah, I have seen that but not by my own hand (or asinine mistake). Different situation in the rear; the rear axle has a vent to relieve the pressure for "live" rear axle setups - until the vent gets plugged by mud. 4x4's do blow out seals due to excessive pressure build up; personal experience with needing to replace pinion and axle seals once a year until I realized what the problem was caused by - extra long axle vent hose that was tucked into a lateral rib of the pickup bed when I buried it in the mud up to the bed too often.
IF you do end up needing braided brake liens. look into earls 3an brake lines. so many length options , and really fair pricing . just know what your brake component conversion fittings thread info is .
Im working on that right. We all must have the will to do it please understand one point everybody gets tired from time to time no matter what they say
If you did tie the frame into the cylinder heads it would still have flex there because if the rubber engine mounts. I can imagine there is not a solid engine mount. So I would think it would still have movement between that and the trans all being rubber mounted. Would a mount from the tower heading to the turbo mount at the bottom not work? Then the load would be to the frame. And hidden by the body. Put hyme joints at each end so it would still be adjustable? And removable.. just a thought
Maybe just a strut bar for the front that goes under the turbo piping? Attached w/ v-band clamps so you can remove it easily also.. I have no clue, just puttin it out there
Looks like i missed some progress on the bibster. I'd say that the percentage of my action fluctuates up and down daily between 10 and 90 percent towards what I want. Typically it's lower that 50 percent on average though. As we know certain things in our lives require certain responsibilities that consume a majority of that percentage daily. This modern day world we live in isn't designed to allow you to spend your energy do what ever you like when ever you like. The man always wants his piece of your daily efforts first.
Love the build. Quick question. If you swap out the tube that runs from the cylinder upper mount arm to the cage though the fire wall with a coilover (like you have in the rear), could you turn the upper mount arm into an upper control arm? With some suspention movement in the front it might absorb some of the road stress.
The bars you made for the front that are used for the struts if you want to make them strong Pressurize them with compressed air. About 180 lbs that will make them stiffer .
Hey Kyle. Good progress on the Bibbster, man.👊 We've been getting some big rain here lately and looks like y'all have too. At least it keeps the heat down enough not to be miserable in the shop. This fool is interested in hearing more about that bearing grease packer. And to answer your question, I'll be honest and say, my actions don't really match what I say I want, but now you've got me thinkin' and I thank you for it.🙏 Good words. Cheers, brother!
For the front, have you thought doing a down sweeping radius from the top of the control arm to the forward cross member with a heim joint on the bottom to adjust camber.
It is your build, so you have every right to do it how you see fit. A downward sweeping radius similar to the upper control arms would look pretty sick in my opinion! Keep up the good!
Could you just brace those arms together like a regular Mustang shock tower brace? Just an idea. No, my actions do not match what I want, but there isn't much I can do about it now. A work accident that left me with significant spine, neck, and nerve damage. That stole away my ability to continue in a normal manner, but I carry on as best as I can anyway. On the bright side, I now have some cool titanium pieces holding my spine and neck together. :)
My actions don't match what I want at all :) I struggle to find the motivation to get out in the work shop. Once I'm out there I'm fine. TH-cam motivates me but really I'm just sitting inside watching TV :) Like you say, I should just "Go do work son"
You might want to trianglelate the strut towers. Simply go from a strut tower to fire wall, then from the fire wall to the other strut tower, then across from tower to tower or at least from strut tower to strut tower, Look at older mustangs about 65 and up and you'll find these types of braces. also if you're going to tie into the fire wall make sure it's reinforced otherwise you'll tear through the fire wall. it's never a good idea to tie your suspension in to your motor plates or motor especially if your motor is not mounted rigid. Normally it's made to flex on the motor mounts, and if you have engine plates up front and then in between the motor and transmission you then can tie them all together and make them solid. however you'll experience vibration throughout the whole front end. if you tie in your engine solid you'll need to adjust the suspension for engine rotational torque. Hope some of this may help. Something like this th-cam.com/video/CKgCh6ttDGc/w-d-xo.html
I personally dont think you need another brace i think you should just put a coil over where you have thay solid straight link in the front. So its similar to the rear.
The Fab Forums I would use the same pipe you used for the frame, weld on a plate that you can bolt to both heads and then bolt the the arms up toward the mount. That way its removable. There wouldn't be much pressure on the engine/heads. Its basically just holding it in place and the force should be on the pipe/arms
Hey .love ur series..kool that raybestos sponsor something.but truthfully,I don't think that's enuff stopping power for that machine..looks awesome tho man.enjoy ut
lol...brakes made to stop a 3500lbs car on something thats only gonna weigh 2000lbs. I guess if it doesn't get the job done I could always upgrade later.
The Fab Forums that's what I'm thinking about. From tower to tower to connect them side to side run them down in front of the motor. Motor plates would work but they are a pain in the butt and will look like ass on that setup.
Dont hook it to head man..side load is gonna be bad.could damage that area of head.imagine u hitting a really bad pothole.ur head gonna feel that.believe it
in all honesty, my actions dont really match with what i want too often. i dont have the big money, so i decided at one point to make my own milling machine, wich is a goal that is kinda out of scope but i want to do it. i do own pretty much every other tool except for a milling machine, not that i would really need one, but i'd simply like to experiment with it, see what it can do, se what it cant. i bought 3 feet of huge ass i-beam wich i need to file and scrape flat, i got some flat stock to make the compounds and even a decent induction motor for it. i just cant give it a go because i dont really know where to start -> this is the biggest problem of every project i encountered, starting it.
Why go with bearing integrated rotors, they're such an inconvenience You know damn well those rotors are going to have a way shorter life span than the spindle bearings...
Surely thats a BS answer, A skeletanized stand alone spindle and a two piece rotor with an aluminum hat would be WAY lighter. As for it out lasting you, I take it you dont plan on driving it much then...
Beach&BoardFan I was referring to: lighter than the other factory two peice setups. If this thing gets more that a few hundred miles a year put on it I would really surprised.
Do my actions what i want, Some of the time, We cant all way's get what we want if we did get what we wanted in a vehicle then you would have no breaks rotted out floors and thousands to sink into it. Draw back for me is the mechanic's no garage yet that does not stop me because i can be pritty set if i have to change a part, Doing a motor job is a hole nother story. Don't have many tool's yet i make do with what i have
Long time sub enjoy watching your builds. If you get time go and check out my channel on The Red Demon budget build Iam doing. Keep up the good work brother.
Don't be to hard on yourself,you've got a lot going on in your life. Content is content for the watcher,you do solid,good quality work and it's a pleasure just to share in what you're doing.
FINALLY a TH-camr that I can watch from my home town.
Hi there.
Don't think about your actions, just focus on your targets, and everything will come up by itself.
Awesome job.
Kyle I always enjoy your little bits of insight at the end of your vids, im right there with you sometimes my actions don't match what I say I want and I do need to check myself as well, not only to get to where I want but also to keep all the progress I have already made
Real talk! Actions > words
If you reach for the stars you may end up in the sky if you don't reach for anything you will never leave the ground.
Keep up the great work son!
My actions have never matched what I want but sometimes I 'trip through the door' into what I want...with not much idea of how I got there...Just remember you have that 'Young Hustler' sticker for inspiration and that it is you who have made this channel for what it is. Think you have got some way 'down the road' to where you want to be and from where `I am sat(I should be 'doing work, Son) you seem to be going in the right direction...the biggest changes that are needed in life are of motivation, focus and a rough idea of direction...Think you are on the way there...Keep 'plug'(welding) away, Kyle...consistency is key....you have that is spades...
Really looking forward to see the end product. This is an excellent looking rod completely unique.
In the past my actions haven’t matched my goals but I’m working on changing that. The saying, “hard work pays off” has been ringing true with me lately.
Great advice as always man.
As always another powerful message in the last few minutes. Something to make me think about and to keep me motivated. A new motto for me "do my actions match what I really want?" Thank you so much for the messages you keep sharing! Now, I do need to go do some work "son" so my actions will equal what I want and that is for my business to not just survive but to grow exponentially starting tomorrow when I open the doors to my shop at 8:00 am and everyday beyond that!
thanks you for watching
My financial situation doesn't match what I want ,but you & others like you are an inspiration. Love your work. . . Son !
That bearing packer looks like an awesome tool, didn't know those existed. You should definitely do a Friday video about those!
What if you built a cross bar between the strut towers? That is: connect both strut towers to each other, but sweep way down in front of the engine. You could even triangulate it into the structure below. Also could possibly integrate the turbo mount into it ( like a maven performance style mount) for a really clean look. Could make it multi functional. Just a thought. I’ve got to admit, when this build started, I thought it would be awful. But I really like the car now. It’s gonna be a really cool cruiser. 👍🏻👍🏻
I think we're all guilty of being complacent towards our goals. I know I am at times. It's easy to lose sight of the end goal through all the daily shit. Keep trucking along, you'll get there. Just have to remind yourself of the goal, and find motivation any way you can. Fake it til you make it.
Awesome video! Thanks
I have a Matco brand bearing packer one of the best investments I made, I use mine all the time.
No ones actions always match what they want, but actions are only made by the shear will to carry on.
Sexy features in that chassis! I hear you.. I spent $5k on a Dynasty 210DX because I wanted the "best." Rationalized it with I'll bring to market specific motorsports parts that I need to make and therefore a niche market is there. Haven't brought those goals much closer to reality yet. 😂
You could do a sort of x-brace across the front to tie in the top of the struts to the frame and possibly give a spot to mount the turbo
I think we all struggle with following through. Just keep at it, slow and steady. I have been working on 3 separate projects for the better part of this year. I could have had all of them done by now had I stayed focused...but I keep chipping away at them. Persistents is what's important.
Everywhere you look on this build it could be a desktop screensaver. Fabrication, welding, and engineering porn. Also, big fan of the more frequent videos containing less content, if you know what I mean. What you mentioned last video. You get X amount done, you show it, instead of a weeks worth edited down. Thanks for the sweet content.
I'm going to have to agree with you on that question Kyle. I have goals, and at the start I'm all gun hoe, then I will start to taper off. I have to constantly check myself, but I think that's natural. It's the fact that you do check yourself to get back on track that tells you that you really do want to achieve those goals. Glad to see everything coming alone, and your babies are getting big!! It's cool to see them grow through the videos.
I'm diggin it! Gonna need more tire.
I've always dreamed of things and keep working at it until it happens. I call it ... making your dreams come true.
I'm all in!
for sure
The bearing packet nice.... I was my dad's bearing packer
Just watched your latest update on the Bibster and this auto played after. Crazy to see the changes in the car/ new show in just a year
The difference between a blower and a strut brace is one is a static load, the other is a dynamic load. If you hit a pothole or any kind of serious bump the motor will move (Putting constant stress load on the engine mounts, since they are the point of least resistance), which in turn is still going to move the other side suspension. Maybe not as bad as joining directly side to side but it will still move. You could try X down to the lower front chassis rail (since it needs to be fixed up anyway).
Can’t wait to see this car roll on its own power ! As for the heads moving, I can’t see it. Especially if you use a plate. Could you not tie that in with your turbo support and back down to the lower cross member for even more rigidity? Just a thought. I believe you mentioned that yesterday. Would quiet down those that oppose your ideas. Anywho, GREAT to see you posting car progress this week. I know it’s tough being summer and all. Enjoy !
yeah I am excited to get it a little further along
Why don't you build a "control arm" that mounts to each control arm on the top. Weld a bracket to fit heim joints on each control arm and bend the bar either above or below the turbo intake manifold piping? It'll add stability through cornering almost like a sway bar but still maintaining an more independent feel?
That way you can avoid mounting it to the front of the motor and taking up unnecessary room for the belt driven parts. Just a thought
Ever thought about building some sort of strut tower brace to tie the front end together instead of mounting a tube to the block? Or possibly incorporate both. I’m sure you’ll figure it out.
Hey Kyle. Thanks for the inspirational words. I have only been a sub for a couple months and your words have brought me out of the funk I was in thank you so much. DO WORK SON.
thats awesome....glad I could help
Why not run a heimed tube from the tops of your "shock towers" down towards the center where the turbo is? That would control the inward movement, and you'd have a place to mount headights!
Its easy to get side tracked or burnt out, I have been liquidating my toys because over the last 5-6 years I have been buying way more projects then finishing them.
Its hard to treat your work at home like your job, but to be successful and get what you want you really need to do so. I always get mad at myself because at work I can be very anal and always do the best job I can, but at home I rush and end up paying the price.
2 questions; 1 Doesn't the front of the Bibster go up and down ? Which means your stiffener will have to some how go with the movement? 2 If you want to mount braces off the heads do like they do on Formula Atlantic or Fords. Integrate a structure off the heads with spacers and long bolts to the heads and then run your stiffeners off that. You could also mount the head lights etc off the structure. Make the structure out of formed or bent tubing to go with the rest of the build
the bibbster does go up and down but that upper part doesn't move. The hydros will also act as springs
Your neighbor has a nice truck!
First I will answer the last question. No, because my actions, and probably your's, are driven by gut/emotion, while what I say I want is intellectualized and lives in another bubble. Don't worry about getting sidetracked cause that is how you 'discover' stuff and it also gets you to stop fixating on what you work on and step back to it later with a fresh outlook. All good and win/win if you embrace it for it's positive outcome. Also, I really like the new format of more frequent videos that are not too 'produced' or edited and just give an update on what's in progress. Nice to see your work a little more often. Also 2, if the Bibster was mine I'd find another way to brace the front, maybe crossed bars to the far side of the chassis, rather than connecting to the engine. It's one thing to use the motor as a stressed member in a motorcyle and totally another in a performance car that may generate more than one G of lateral force in cornering. Just a thought, and sorry to be so wordy. Love your content and look for it every day.
Kyle, look, your upper mount of the hydraylic cylinder has a certain path, it's a circle around the pivot axle of the longtitudinal lever. The end of your planned transverse lever will also have it's path - another circle, wich is smaller than the first one and lies in another plane. This way you're trying to make the cylinder mount to follow two different paths, wich will result in lever and chassis flex. I suppose it won't function properly.
the upper wont move, just the lower
back when i use to street race a 68 cougar with a sbf ever time i would spray the car it would rip the stock motor mounts (i was to cheap to solids at the time ) but i ran a chain with a turn buckle from the head to the frame i was hitting it a 300 shot and that head never moved
yeah I saw a lot of those setups back in my day.
10 out of 10 for honesty dude :) I'm in the same boat but sometime like with my car project I think my dreams and goals for it are greater that my ability,,,,,still cracking on with it tho :)
nah you have the ability, just have to do the work son :)
I do like the look of the bibster! Could you design a reinforcer between the front suspension? Jump under/over the turbo.
yeah that what I am going to do
Good progress! "Do work, son!"
Just a bit of commentary ...
Front hubs - pack the hub with a film of grease between the outer bearing races to provide a "reservoir" of bearing grease so that when the grease gets hot and thins out the grease which was packed in the roller bearings doesn't migrate to the hub between the bearings and cause them to run dry. That is an effect of "grease" called "shear thinning". Centrifugal force can be a bitch; the taper of the bearing inner and outer races can / will funnel semi-liquefied grease into the hubs if they are empty of grease.
One mistake with all new parts many years ago was all it took for me to learn that lesson; growl in the front wheel bearings 3 months after a front drum to disc conversion on a '67 RS SS Camaro. But you don't pack the hub tight with grease, there has to be room for expansion as the volume of grease "increases" as it warms up. You don't want that "chamber" too full and have the hot grease "pop" the dust cap or blow inwards past the grease seal. Yeah, I have seen that but not by my own hand (or asinine mistake).
Different situation in the rear; the rear axle has a vent to relieve the pressure for "live" rear axle setups - until the vent gets plugged by mud. 4x4's do blow out seals due to excessive pressure build up; personal experience with needing to replace pinion and axle seals once a year until I realized what the problem was caused by - extra long axle vent hose that was tucked into a lateral rib of the pickup bed when I buried it in the mud up to the bed too often.
IF you do end up needing braided brake liens. look into earls 3an brake lines. so many length options , and really fair pricing . just know what your brake component conversion fittings thread info is .
Im working on that right. We all must have the will to do it please understand one point everybody gets tired from time to time no matter what they say
I get sidetrack always got an 65 impala build but keep working on the 66 impala if not that bikes frame work or any other fab but great video
Good message
Brembos would have been badass behind those wheels.
lol...yeah
If you did tie the frame into the cylinder heads it would still have flex there because if the rubber engine mounts. I can imagine there is not a solid engine mount. So I would think it would still have movement between that and the trans all being rubber mounted. Would a mount from the tower heading to the turbo mount at the bottom not work? Then the load would be to the frame. And hidden by the body. Put hyme joints at each end so it would still be adjustable? And removable.. just a thought
engine is all solid mounted
Maybe just a strut bar for the front that goes under the turbo piping? Attached w/ v-band clamps so you can remove it easily also.. I have no clue, just puttin it out there
Looks like i missed some progress on the bibster. I'd say that the percentage of my action fluctuates up and down daily between 10 and 90 percent towards what I want. Typically it's lower that 50 percent on average though. As we know certain things in our lives require certain responsibilities that consume a majority of that percentage daily. This modern day world we live in isn't designed to allow you to spend your energy do what ever you like when ever you like. The man always wants his piece of your daily efforts first.
Love the build. Quick question. If you swap out the tube that runs from the cylinder upper mount arm to the cage though the fire wall with a coilover (like you have in the rear), could you turn the upper mount arm into an upper control arm?
With some suspention movement in the front it might absorb some of the road stress.
yeah it would and that was kind of the original idea...
I thought that might be what you were going for. It looked a bit complex to be a static arm. Awesome build, I look forward to seeing more of it.
The bars you made for the front that are used for the struts if you want to make them strong Pressurize them with compressed air. About 180 lbs that will make them stiffer .
they are strong now
Im the same , a lot going on ... looking fwd to your next. what about that bearing packer ??
You’re killing me. 4x4 wood blocks to hold up that beautiful front end. C’mon Son!!!
grate stuff thanks
are there any other welders that take dual wire spools that epic with my unimig could hold flux and solid
not sure
Hey Kyle. Good progress on the Bibbster, man.👊 We've been getting some big rain here lately and looks like y'all have too. At least it keeps the heat down enough not to be miserable in the shop. This fool is interested in hearing more about that bearing grease packer. And to answer your question, I'll be honest and say, my actions don't really match what I say I want, but now you've got me thinkin' and I thank you for it.🙏 Good words. Cheers, brother!
it has been keeping the heat down for sure. guess that one good thing
Why not wilwood or something like that for your brakes?
For the front, have you thought doing a down sweeping radius from the top of the control arm to the forward cross member with a heim joint on the bottom to adjust camber.
I have, just torn on how it looks. I will probably look at that option again along with some others
It is your build, so you have every right to do it how you see fit. A downward sweeping radius similar to the upper control arms would look pretty sick in my opinion! Keep up the good!
Nice car man 👌🏾👌🏾👌🏾😁
Keep doing work son !!
Excelente 🇩🇴🇩🇴🌎
Could you just brace those arms together like a regular Mustang shock tower brace? Just an idea.
No, my actions do not match what I want, but there isn't much I can do about it now. A work accident that left me with significant spine, neck, and nerve damage. That stole away my ability to continue in a normal manner, but I carry on as best as I can anyway. On the bright side, I now have some cool titanium pieces holding my spine and neck together. :)
no because they may still have some side to side movement
What size are the tires and rims front and back. Specs please. Also for the Goose too? Thanks
wheels are 20 x 9.5 front and back dont remember the tire sizes right off hand. Goose has 15x4.5 up front and 15x10 rear with 275-50's
Awesome
Mig aluminum? Time for a mini all aluminum jet boat project!
lol...those things are rad
what were you using to pack the bearings?
bearing grease packer
Thanks. Its been a while since I have packed any and all I've seen or used was the Teflon cone type. Great to see if there was a better way to do it.
do you weld aluminum a lot ?
yeah
i love this car
I love these videos my man. Always quality content. Mahalo nui loa
My actions don't match what I want at all :) I struggle to find the motivation to get out in the work shop. Once I'm out there I'm fine. TH-cam motivates me but really I'm just sitting inside watching TV :) Like you say, I should just "Go do work son"
Is there a reason you don’t just make a strut tower brace across the two struts?
that alone wont totally fix the problem because it could still move side to side.
Kyle needs to start saying "go finish work son" lol and I need motivation towards my projects to many excuses.
the goal is work not finish. Im not changing spark plug here. These kind of projects take years
You might want to trianglelate the strut towers. Simply go from a strut tower to fire wall, then from the fire wall to the other strut tower, then across from tower to tower or at least from strut tower to strut tower, Look at older mustangs about 65 and up and you'll find these types of braces. also if you're going to tie into the fire wall make sure it's reinforced otherwise you'll tear through the fire wall. it's never a good idea to tie your suspension in to your motor plates or motor especially if your motor is not mounted rigid. Normally it's made to flex on the motor mounts, and if you have engine plates up front and then in between the motor and transmission you then can tie them all together and make them solid. however you'll experience vibration throughout the whole front end. if you tie in your engine solid you'll need to adjust the suspension for engine rotational torque. Hope some of this may help.
Something like this th-cam.com/video/CKgCh6ttDGc/w-d-xo.html
I personally dont think you need another brace i think you should just put a coil over where you have thay solid straight link in the front. So its similar to the rear.
I get sidetracked alot. See ya on the next one.
Ayyy feller south carolina bruther
thats right
Why didn't you use sn95 brakes and spindles?
because I already had the fox stuff and there was no advantage in switching
@@Thefabforums they look better and require no maintenance in between brake jobs, and I thought fox hubs interfere with center caps?
@@MoctezumasRevenge1 yeah those things are true but none will effect this build.
I would imagine that if you connected a plate to both heads it would be fine.
probably what I will end up doing
The Fab Forums I would use the same pipe you used for the frame, weld on a plate that you can bolt to both heads and then bolt the the arms up toward the mount. That way its removable. There wouldn't be much pressure on the engine/heads. Its basically just holding it in place and the force should be on the pipe/arms
Hey .love ur series..kool that raybestos sponsor something.but truthfully,I don't think that's enuff stopping power for that machine..looks awesome tho man.enjoy ut
lol...brakes made to stop a 3500lbs car on something thats only gonna weigh 2000lbs. I guess if it doesn't get the job done I could always upgrade later.
The Fab Forums
The Fab Forums hey it'll stop a 3500 lbs car ar cruising speeds ..yea. not sure when u turn up the wick
Run the saport to the fire wall.
Just bend you a cross bar hugging the front of the engine in between the water pump and thermostat housing.
it would need to be attached somewhere to reduce side to side movement
The Fab Forums that's what I'm thinking about. From tower to tower to connect them side to side run them down in front of the motor. Motor plates would work but they are a pain in the butt and will look like ass on that setup.
1st love, your content bro!!!!!
The more I learn the more I realize I don't know much at all!
yeah me too
Wow # 1 Viewer! Like a guy that didn't wear gloves.
Dont hook it to head man..side load is gonna be bad.could damage that area of head.imagine u hitting a really bad pothole.ur head gonna feel that.believe it
When you finish the bibbster are you going to bring it to foxoctober fest in nc like you did with the grey goose last year ?
I may bring it unfinished this year
👍👍👍👍
in all honesty, my actions dont really match with what i want too often. i dont have the big money, so i decided at one point to make my own milling machine, wich is a goal that is kinda out of scope but i want to do it. i do own pretty much every other tool except for a milling machine, not that i would really need one, but i'd simply like to experiment with it, see what it can do, se what it cant. i bought 3 feet of huge ass i-beam wich i need to file and scrape flat, i got some flat stock to make the compounds and even a decent induction motor for it. i just cant give it a go because i dont really know where to start -> this is the biggest problem of every project i encountered, starting it.
5:50 ahahahhahaa
Obviously my actions dont match. I have not made a video in 2 years!
A single wishbone design that center pivots at the firewall with ends that attach to each strut tower????
Do my actions show what I say I want?... what a gut punch
lol....we all need a good gut punch every once in awhile
Hell no my actions change days changes thats the way it is.
Why go with bearing integrated rotors, they're such an inconvenience
You know damn well those rotors are going to have a way shorter life span than the spindle bearings...
lighter....and they will last my lifetime
Surely thats a BS answer, A skeletanized stand alone spindle and a two piece rotor with an aluminum hat would be WAY lighter. As for it out lasting you, I take it you dont plan on driving it much then...
Beach&BoardFan I was referring to: lighter than the other factory two peice setups. If this thing gets more that a few hundred miles a year put on it I would really surprised.
Do my actions what i want, Some of the time, We cant all way's get what we want if we did get what we wanted in a vehicle then you would have no breaks rotted out floors and thousands to sink into it.
Draw back for me is the mechanic's no garage yet that does not stop me because i can be pritty set if i have to change a part, Doing a motor job is a hole nother story.
Don't have many tool's yet i make do with what i have
My Ideas and Ambition are muted by my lack of facilities..for now..that and a pending divorce,, D'oh!
Long time sub enjoy watching your builds. If you get time go and check out my channel on The Red Demon budget build Iam doing. Keep up the good work brother.
👍👍👍