Dude, you're gonna love the Everlast welder and water cooler. I've had my everlast TIG, plasma, and that exact water cooler for about 3 years. It welds great and I've had zero failures. The torch it came with was a hunk of garbage that weighs like 40 pounds. I bought a new water cooled 20 size torch and it's a dream to use now. Once you use a water cooled torch, you'll never go back to anything else!
Ever thought of torsion bar setup? They tuck away nicely. Sprint cars use them on all four corners. You could use hydraulics to rotate the index section of the torsion bar and once it gets to ride height the torsion would be your spring actuation.
Robert Elmo 😂😂😂 His style is pretty much inline with how I like things. I imagine it will resemble some of those badass hot wheels I used to play with back in the day.
Lovin' the fab 'Son'. Keep it up for you are an inspiration to me to complete my one Son's '66 Mustang before he graduates HS. Also, he loves watching the videos and tells me the new ideas he's thought of from watching your video. (I've got a mini Kyle on my hands.) All in all keep up the excellent work & ideas plus top notch fabrication for you have shown everyone that anything is possible if you put you mind to it and so, 'Get to Work Son'. Thanks
I love what you're doing with the Bibbster. It's genius. The kind of genius that is capable of influencing or repulsing the automotive world at the same time. I think it's revolutionary. I need to tell you that when I look at the 'quarter panel' and try to wrap my head around what you have loosely planned I'm concerned. I realize you're old school hot rod vision, however, I can clearly see a flying buttress. Look at the new gt40. A set up similar to that would allow you to use 2 smaller rads positioned in the arch of both buttresses. I realize I'm leaning toward supercar styling cues. I like big butts and I cannot lie! I trust you can deuce coupe the back half of the Bibbster and prove me wrong. You've got my attention
I just watched the update, if I could add food for thought? Front struts, look into 32 way adjustable coilover. You can change the length of the strut at the bottom by the spindle or cut the factory strut. Also if you look up and older TH-cam post ( mid mounted mazda ) I know the rear is independent but look at the math and idea. Your show is great, it has helped me so much and gave me so many more ideas. Keep it going and having fun is what it about, have a good day
I like where you’re going with the solid strut idea. It’d be trick to fab a coil over looking “spring and strut” out of metal. Non function because it would all be metal, but you’d be able to flex your fab skills. Does that make sense?
To stay with your design, go with your plan on making the strut solid and switch your hydro setup to an airbag coil over. That way you get the best of both worlds. Not only does it function/drop the way you want it to but you get the quality ride. Plus like you said in your other video, you want the suspension to be out of sight and bare bones. This way you clean up the strut area and hide the suspension in the chassis.
I like the front end design so just a thought, if you run a coil over do some custom ones with the hydraulic ram incorporated in the body would look clean. You could do some custom shorter struts strip the standard ones and mod the case / bracket location and do a screw closure to put them back together again with shorter internals, as they are probably twin tube gas over oil you can represurise them by fitting a schrader valve. A very cool innovative build.
You sure do a lot of camera work for a solo operation. I've tried it in my own videos, so I appreciate your efforts. I know how repositioning the camera over and over slows you down, but the results are great!
And on the front suspension have you thought about modifying where and how the strut mounts to the spindle? like building somewhat of a drop bracket for the spindle that lowers the strut mount.
Nice! I agree with you, I think that will look awesome having them strut towers sticking up! Mount some big ole headlights up beside em! Its gonna look cool!
i find it funny people care your cutting this up there's a million fox body's out there and moste were rode hard and put up wet cutting up this one just makes it better.thanks for the great vids.
How about running your coolant straight through the 1 5/8" bars? I know a lot of drag car use the cage for crankcase ventilation to the rear. Just a thought.
Have you heard of JRi shocks? They're a hydraulic ride height adjusting coil over. I've seen other companies make similar shocks for street/hot rods. Might be something to look into and see if it'd work with a cantilever set up for the front. Can't wait to see the final product on this build. Keep the videos coming.
nice update! +1 cantilever coilover front! can you mount all the hydraulic cylinders inside the rockers, then cantilever arms perpendicular at the firewall? would kinda look like the back of a "fender" in tube...
Dude the bibster is gonna kick so much ass..for a Ford..lol. I've enjoyed watching you work on it but I am excited to see it finished. And I will add that I appreciate the way you explain things. Makes me feel like even my dumbass could do it. Of course I can NOT, but I like your style man.. bravo
Watching your latest installment and you talked briefly about the master cylinder mounting, had you considered mounting it under the cowl by turning it 90 degrees and using a bell crank?
Solid mount the spindles to upward tubes off the hymes and build inboard suspension from the lower cross bar to the upper bars. Kinda like f1 but more upright.
Since your goin to use hydraulics use light duty hydraulic rams in the front they'll enable you to raise and lower the car but also be used as a shock just use a pressure valve so you can adjust the stiffness of the ride from inside the cabin. Atleast then you can still use coil springs in the front like you want and keep light tension on the Rams so you make use of both the Rams and coil springs but keep a decent functioning suspension.
on your rear cooling you mentioned "hard piping" it in aluminum and hiding it away... ever consider doing it in copper? do copper lines and fittings (much like you'd plumb a kitchen or bathroom) and then adapt to rubber where you had to make connections at. It'd look cool and you wouldnt have to hide it. could do some other copper accents to help make it blend in with the overall build.?
hey kyle. would it pay off to make a strut drop as such? where the strut mounts to the spindle, could you make a bracket to drop the strut down the the height you need it? could make something real cool looking with dimple dies ect ect. not sure how that would effect geometry but seeing as your making this thing from scratch, thought it might be some food for thought. love how this thing is coming so far, looks badass!
Go cantilevered set up. You will save a mile of space and can put it in almost any location if you calculate the pivot ratio properly. I was advised to use a Torrington bearing on the pivot between the rod and the coilover. Its what I'm doing on my 33 Dodge ratrod.
I think you should use a straight front axle out of an early ford (pre '49) Lots of options on the front suspension with such a setup. You could use the transverse leaf, coil overs or even air bags. Good luck!
Hey, cool build. Here's a idea for the front suspension, Formula 1 set up like the Plymouth powler. Hinged door with tube up ward to a hinge to a coilover inside the frame rails.
When you come to LST your going to have to fill me in on what you think of that Everlast machine. I have wanted to update my machine for quite a while now.
just a question, why did'nt you go for a overhanging pedalbox, or a normal race pedal box? that will give you a lot more space under the hood, and looks so much cleaner when done propperly
I use the hydraulic throwout bearing system with my tremec builds> Using lightweight upper and lower control arms and adjustable coil overs would seem to solve your space /drop issues. Drop spindles for that set up are dirt cheap- fwiw.
I wonder if Strange or Qa1 , perhaps Viking would have struts that would work - perhaps something based on another Ford platform. I can see the engineering/ fab issue your dealing with. Like your idea of still being able to get off the shelf parts for the car. Perhaps they have a chart of strut lengths and if Ford has one the right length- then your just dealing with spindle drop.
Did you want to be able to lower the car with hydraulics? A drop spindle will only gain you an inch or two. You can also do cantilever airbags, like Ridetech, to make in compact and also be able to dump it frame in ground.
Thing is I've always had an eye for design, but have ZERO skill set to get there. But I think I have a pretty good idea of where you're going here. Mostly that's because as I said earlier you have a knack for explaining your vision.
Guess I wasn't paying attention....never thought the strut was a thought. That thing screams for a straight beam axle set-up! A couple coilovers and done. If you really wanted it to look naked up front, put torsion bars in tubes in the firewall area You still need a shock somewhere....or bag the swimgarm at the firewall. That would be tough spacewise though. Straight axles front and rear!
The Fab Forums, your struts are really long....they are probably not using the whole tube. You might be able to find some race struts and lose 5" or so of height.
Saving you some more space re: brakes/clutch, have you thought of a wilwood/tilton/other manufacturer bias pedalbox, that way brake hydraulics and clutch hydraulics are moved inside the car, and it moves the accelerator cable point which might be easier to work with too.
what type of filler wire are you using and dia ? I hope to what you think of everlast I have herd that its a great units BUT the warranty is crap ???? Please let me know on video whats happens the everlast products
+John Versluis will do. I have a ton of high level fabricator friends that love the Everlast machines....and I think the warranty is 5 years which I believe is the best in the business.
+Adam Pierce No it wouldn't fit the foxbody era....this build is all about doing something different and upper and lower control setup is used all the time
I wrote the comment before I watched your video to the end. I see your philosophy and understand what you are trying to do. Sorry for shooting from the hip.
I know you want to stay true with the fox body parts, but the problem with McPherson struts, is you have to have a support directly above the strut. This is due to the strut itself acting as a suspension member (usually the steering kingpin axis and controls motion of wheel through travel). I'm assuming you've thought about using bags, but so has everyone else... That being said, I might have a few ideas on how to hydraulically control this even with adjustable ride height.
@@Thefabforums Yes I believe it is the Amazon list. Is there another list of other tools somewhere not from Amazon? I'd love to know what pipe bender you're using.
I know you're wanting to go all metal on this thing but I love the red color on it. You should do bare metal on the body and the red on the tube and inside of it.
Excellent work, the way you describe how and why makes it pretty easy to get my head wrapped around what you are trying to do. What is the name of the music used at 8:35? pretty catchy tune. Keep up the good work and Thank you.
Awesome dang looking good bro . Im not really a welder my self but you give a motivation to start building something so just got me a new welder im about to get down on building a steel bumper on my truck ..
Cantilever front suspension. You can place the shocks horizontally, or close to it, and also use horizontal adjusting rams . Some of the ones I've seen online become artwork that you want to show off.
Hey Kyle, That welder and torch cooler looks awesome but do you have a link of where I could buy one? All help in finding a good deal on one of these setups is much appreciated. Thanks in advance, Pete.
Never mind I found the Australian dealer and the prices are very reasonable but I will have to go for the power TIG 255 EXT because I only have single phase 240 volt power and the power TIG 325 EXT is 415 volt 3 phase.
it would have way too much caster if the struts where laid back.... they need to stay similar to the factory angle I have though about hydro steering but the problem is that its too dangerous for public roads
Cantilevers up front!! race car tech but it'll allow you to run the shocks close to horizontal, saving on strut tower height. just a thought, might be a bit of work but it would look ridiculously cool, looking rad so far man!
You could use a solid I beam axle in the front and run the hydraulic ram over the front of the motor and use one ram on bell cranks attached to the cylinder on one end and coil overs on the other.
Any reason for not going with airbags? Might of missed it, but counter leaver bags at the front how you where going to mount the hydraulics. Hidden away 👌
That front end is going to be tricky! I am pretty curious as to how your suspension rig comes together. Going to look uber cool! Are you going with straightish front fender....Kind of carry on the rocker pannel/lower door pannel sides with a rolled over (the tire) fender Kyle? Keep the existing hood drop angle with Rolled fenders outboard so to speak? Does that even make sense ? :) lol! I think I get where you are going....Time will tell!
Love the Bibbster and the channel! I've seen rock buggies utilizing the chassis tubing to flow coolant to the rear radiator setup, maybe an option. Regardless nice work keep creating cool stuff!
I would think the caster sweep would be horrible with the solid strut as described. A hanging Howe or willwood pedal assembly would also put the cylinders and reservoirs internal, cleaning up the firewall and solve some heat issues. Just some thoughts
+blueduece64 it may actually have a better caster sweep with the way I have looked at doing it....I thought about a lot of the internal setups but they would be true to the fox body era.
The Fab Forums interested to see, have you guesstimated sweep travel? Easy to do if you have both pivot points guesstimated. Love the vids, and fresh take. watching from the mid state
i thought you were gonna do a hotrod style front end, like with a 2wd cherokee front axle with radius arms and hydraulics. im interested to see what you will build!
Gonna need dual radiator caps. One on radiator. One with a high pressure relief rating at the highest point in engine's coolant system, between the intake manifold and thermostat. Then you can fill the engine first, put the front cap on, then fill radiator. You could bleed system at heater-core fittings on front of the intake, but functionally I'm sure having a cap up there will give the peace of mind anyone would want, along with safety factor of pressure relief redundancy(nobody wants a radiator full of hot coolant bursting right behind them).
Looking good son ! You say that you're almost done with the 1 5/8 tube then continuing with 1 1/2 . Does 1/8 " make that much difference ? besides weight savings
Check out what Finnegan is installing on the front end of his C-10. I don't think he has videos out but I saw a picture on his Facebook page. Probably costs $20k but it is a pretty slick set up.
From someone who owns a Fox body. I find it refreshing to see someone do something different with one. This is cool thanks for something original.
+Gerald Grandfield thanks
Most likely the best car building series on youtube at the moment, keep it up!
+TomVD thanks
I agree 100%
Dude, you're gonna love the Everlast welder and water cooler. I've had my everlast TIG, plasma, and that exact water cooler for about 3 years. It welds great and I've had zero failures. The torch it came with was a hunk of garbage that weighs like 40 pounds. I bought a new water cooled 20 size torch and it's a dream to use now. Once you use a water cooled torch, you'll never go back to anything else!
I am stoked
Ever thought of torsion bar setup? They tuck away nicely. Sprint cars use them on all four corners. You could use hydraulics to rotate the index section of the torsion bar and once it gets to ride height the torsion would be your spring actuation.
+Dirt Heretic 83 I have but it has been done before...plus I like the idea of staying true to the fox theme
I know what you mean. Stick with that theme. Also, could use lowering struts with shorter travel.
You are so far ahead of me, I'm still trying to envision what this thing is going to look like when he's done...lol..
Robert Elmo 😂😂😂 His style is pretty much inline with how I like things. I imagine it will resemble some of those badass hot wheels I used to play with back in the day.
Hats off to you on this wild build!! Serious skills! Can't wait for the end results! I wish you luck on the rest of the build!
thanks
Love how the rear radiator mounting bar lines up with side door bars, looks very slick! 👌
+Mosquito Trail thanks
Lovin' the fab 'Son'. Keep it up for you are an inspiration to me to complete my one Son's '66 Mustang before he graduates HS. Also, he loves watching the videos and tells me the new ideas he's thought of from watching your video. (I've got a mini Kyle on my hands.) All in all keep up the excellent work & ideas plus top notch fabrication for you have shown everyone that anything is possible if you put you mind to it and so, 'Get to Work Son'. Thanks
thats awesome
Cant wait to check it out at Ponies In The Smokies brother! Thanks for the support!
no problem
Like hearing more on your thought process. Makes me rethink mine and approach stuff from different angles.
+pro1342 thanks
The koolest part was when you tacked in the firewall piece and the headers looked brand new 😁keep doin work son I'll keep watching
+Hoagie Sherlin lol...Yeah I wondered how many would notice
I love what you're doing with the Bibbster. It's genius. The kind of genius that is capable of influencing or repulsing the automotive world at the same time. I think it's revolutionary. I need to tell you that when I look at the 'quarter panel' and try to wrap my head around what you have loosely planned I'm concerned. I realize you're old school hot rod vision, however, I can clearly see a flying buttress. Look at the new gt40. A set up similar to that would allow you to use 2 smaller rads positioned in the arch of both buttresses. I realize I'm leaning toward supercar styling cues. I like big butts and I cannot lie! I trust you can deuce coupe the back half of the Bibbster and prove me wrong. You've got my attention
thanks....stay tuned
I just watched the update, if I could add food for thought? Front struts, look into 32 way adjustable coilover. You can change the length of the strut at the bottom by the spindle or cut the factory strut. Also if you look up and older TH-cam post ( mid mounted mazda ) I know the rear is independent but look at the math and idea. Your show is great, it has helped me so much and gave me so many more ideas. Keep it going and having fun is what it about, have a good day
+Philip Baker You can't shorten the body of the strut though
True but with your rim size the bottom of the strut could be pushed down almost to the bottom of the rim then add drop spindles?
I like where you’re going with the solid strut idea. It’d be trick to fab a coil over looking “spring and strut” out of metal. Non function because it would all be metal, but you’d be able to flex your fab skills.
Does that make sense?
To stay with your design, go with your plan on making the strut solid and switch your hydro setup to an airbag coil over. That way you get the best of both worlds. Not only does it function/drop the way you want it to but you get the quality ride. Plus like you said in your other video, you want the suspension to be out of sight and bare bones. This way you clean up the strut area and hide the suspension in the chassis.
+Jason Postal I actually prefer a hydro setup vs airbags when combined with coil overs for a ton of reasons.
Great details of the build... like how its coming out. Looking forward to your next video...
+Craig Caggiano thanks
Thanks for the videos. Great fun to watch your madness get expressed in metal.
+Jeff Barr thanks man
I like the front end design so just a thought, if you run a coil over do some custom ones with the hydraulic ram incorporated in the body would look clean. You could do some custom shorter struts strip the standard ones and mod the case / bracket location and do a screw closure to put them back together again with shorter internals, as they are probably twin tube gas over oil you can represurise them by fitting a schrader valve. A very cool innovative build.
yeah that basically the plan
I am just amazed “girdle it and maybe stroke it” made me laugh that much. Great build lovin it.
+jimmyredgt lol
SLA front suspension. Also, touch bases with Modern Driveline to see if they have a hydraulic clutch setup of the bib buster.
Enjoying the build.
+Flyingmikey62 will do
Loving the bibster man!👍🏻👍🏻..and the use of off the shelf parts...AWESOME!
+CHVLKiD Thanks, that's what I'm after
Great series! Cant wait too see it go down the road. Hope you can drift it!
thanks
You sure do a lot of camera work for a solo operation. I've tried it in my own videos, so I appreciate your efforts. I know how repositioning the camera over and over slows you down, but the results are great!
+mcgyverdude Yeah very few realize what I go through to make these vids
Besides drop spindles. Can you see flipping and swapping driver and passenger spindles for additional drop on the shock absorbers?
+Joseph Marhx it would mess up the caster and brake mounting
And on the front suspension have you thought about modifying where and how the strut mounts to the spindle? like building somewhat of a drop bracket for the spindle that lowers the strut mount.
yeah I think thats what I am going to end up doing
Nice! I agree with you, I think that will look awesome having them strut towers sticking up! Mount some big ole headlights up beside em! Its gonna look cool!
Bro solid axle, radius arms and pancake bags for the front!!!
then it would be like all the rest of the hotrods....I want something different
i find it funny people care your cutting this up there's a million fox body's out there and moste were rode hard and put up wet cutting up this one just makes it better.thanks for the great vids.
yeah for sure
One of my favorite videos yet...content style everything that was dope...
+Nathan 909 thanks
How about running your coolant straight through the 1 5/8" bars? I know a lot of drag car use the cage for crankcase ventilation to the rear. Just a thought.
+bykrdood7 mainly because of hear transfer. Almost all of these tubes will remain exposed. I also would want to have any rust issues.
Have you heard of JRi shocks? They're a hydraulic ride height adjusting coil over. I've seen other companies make similar shocks for street/hot rods. Might be something to look into and see if it'd work with a cantilever set up for the front. Can't wait to see the final product on this build. Keep the videos coming.
+CaptainYodelstein Yeah Mittler Bros has something similar on the market
Nice work. You have a god given gift. Your very smart.
+Dylan Rose Thanks man
nice update! +1 cantilever coilover front! can you mount all the hydraulic cylinders inside the rockers, then cantilever arms perpendicular at the firewall? would kinda look like the back of a "fender" in tube...
thats basically how its going to end up
Nice plasma table!
Dude the bibster is gonna kick so much ass..for a Ford..lol. I've enjoyed watching you work on it but I am excited to see it finished. And I will add that I appreciate the way you explain things. Makes me feel like even my dumbass could do it. Of course I can NOT, but I like your style man.. bravo
+Jason Clark Thanks man
Watching your latest installment and you talked briefly about the master cylinder mounting, had you considered mounting it under the cowl by turning it 90 degrees and using a bell crank?
I did
Solid mount the spindles to upward tubes off the hymes and build inboard suspension from the lower cross bar to the upper bars. Kinda like f1 but more upright.
Thought of a push rod set up? Have the shock and spring in front of the engine
they are cool and will probably use that on a future build but its not true to the fox era
Hi, with the brake master cylinder will you be putting a booster on to? If not why not? Thanks,
+OldDog NewTricks no booster
Have you thought about getting the Wilwood pedal assembly? they tuck up under the dash.
it would look better, and give you more room up front
+Kraken Fodder I have....I like the idea of staying true to the foxbody era
Since your goin to use hydraulics use light duty hydraulic rams in the front they'll enable you to raise and lower the car but also be used as a shock just use a pressure valve so you can adjust the stiffness of the ride from inside the cabin. Atleast then you can still use coil springs in the front like you want and keep light tension on the Rams so you make use of both the Rams and coil springs but keep a decent functioning suspension.
on your rear cooling you mentioned "hard piping" it in aluminum and hiding it away... ever consider doing it in copper? do copper lines and fittings (much like you'd plumb a kitchen or bathroom) and then adapt to rubber where you had to make connections at. It'd look cool and you wouldnt have to hide it. could do some other copper accents to help make it blend in with the overall build.?
copper would be cool for an old style look....I think the aluminum will have more of a modern look and be much lighter
Nice Kyle. Its coming together!
+Double R Restorations thanks
hey kyle. would it pay off to make a strut drop as such? where the strut mounts to the spindle, could you make a bracket to drop the strut down the the height you need it?
could make something real cool looking with dimple dies ect ect. not sure how that would effect geometry but seeing as your making this thing from scratch, thought it might be some food for thought.
love how this thing is coming so far, looks badass!
yeah I may do something similar
Go cantilevered set up. You will save a mile of space and can put it in almost any location if you calculate the pivot ratio properly. I was advised to use a Torrington bearing on the pivot between the rod and the coilover. Its what I'm doing on my 33 Dodge ratrod.
cool
I think you should use a straight front axle out of an early ford (pre '49) Lots of options on the front suspension with such a setup. You could use the transverse leaf, coil overs or even air bags. Good luck!
+Junk Mikes World Yeah but none of those are from the foxbody era....plans are to replicate that look in a modern way
Hey, cool build. Here's a idea for the front suspension, Formula 1 set up like the Plymouth powler. Hinged door with tube up ward to a hinge to a coilover inside the frame rails.
+redlinepaul410 it's already been done though
Ok, cool. I also inboxed u on facebook with pics.
+redlinepaul410 doing something different is part of what this build is about
When you come to LST your going to have to fill me in on what you think of that Everlast machine. I have wanted to update my machine for quite a while now.
+Chris Stoughton Will do
just a question, why did'nt you go for a overhanging pedalbox, or a normal race pedal box? that will give you a lot more space under the hood, and looks so much cleaner when done propperly
mainly because I like the idea of staying true to the fox era and because I already had this stuff
What will you do about the oil filter next to the header? Remote filter setup?
+Potato Pete No just run a shorter filter
I use the hydraulic throwout bearing system with my tremec builds>
Using lightweight upper and lower control arms and adjustable coil overs would seem to solve your space /drop issues.
Drop spindles for that set up are dirt cheap- fwiw.
+Fr. Rusty Matheny Yeah but everyone does that kind of setup and it's not true to the fox body platform
Good point.
I wonder if there is shorter Ford strut that will hold the weight and have the right damping - hmmmm??
I wonder if Strange or Qa1 , perhaps Viking would have struts that would work - perhaps something based on another Ford platform.
I can see the engineering/ fab issue your dealing with.
Like your idea of still being able to get off the shelf parts for the car.
Perhaps they have a chart of strut lengths and if Ford has one the right length- then your just dealing with spindle drop.
Did you want to be able to lower the car with hydraulics? A drop spindle will only gain you an inch or two. You can also do cantilever airbags, like Ridetech, to make in compact and also be able to dump it frame in ground.
+Davion Hill yeah the drop spindle would just be to lower the point were the strut attachment point is....hydro will allow it to lay frame
Thing is I've always had an eye for design, but have ZERO skill set to get there. But I think I have a pretty good idea of where you're going here. Mostly that's because as I said earlier you have a knack for explaining your vision.
+Jason Clark thanks
Guess I wasn't paying attention....never thought the strut was a thought. That thing screams for a straight beam axle set-up! A couple coilovers and done. If you really wanted it to look naked up front, put torsion bars in tubes in the firewall area You still need a shock somewhere....or bag the swimgarm at the firewall. That would be tough spacewise though. Straight axles front and rear!
yeah all those ideas are cool but they have all been done....and they wouldnt be true to the fox body era
The Fab Forums, your struts are really long....they are probably not using the whole tube. You might be able to find some race struts and lose 5" or so of height.
Looking Great, as far as the front suspension why not make a push rod type setup?
+LilDvl89 trying to keep it true to the foxbody
Saving you some more space re: brakes/clutch, have you thought of a wilwood/tilton/other manufacturer bias pedalbox, that way brake hydraulics and clutch hydraulics are moved inside the car, and it moves the accelerator cable point which might be easier to work with too.
I have but I like the idea of using as many fox parts as I can on this thing
The Fab Forums yeah, makes sense, keep it up, hope you get it done in time :)
The pushrod front suspension seems like a good idea and i think in keeping with the modern hotrod theme efi would be way to go
yeah
Do a rat rod leaf spring set up. It’s yours and it’s coming out bad ass. Love how your brining your vision to life!
+Ty Reed thanks...rat rods setups are cool but I'm looking to do something different than what already out there
When the floorboard is installed will there be room for your heels with the pedal assy. that low?
+The Maverick yeah all of that is still the same as it came in the mustangs
what type of filler wire are you using and dia ? I hope to what you think of everlast I have herd that its a great units BUT the warranty is crap ???? Please let me know on video whats happens the everlast products
+John Versluis will do. I have a ton of high level fabricator friends that love the Everlast machines....and I think the warranty is 5 years which I believe is the best in the business.
+John Versluis sorry....er70s and dia. changes depending on what I'm working on.
Cool project!
thanks
Great update, just out of curiosity what do you pay for you tubing? just looking to see if what my local metal yard charges is normal.
not sure the per foot price I think they are a little over $100 per 20' stick for moly
What about a cantilever style suspension for the front, to tuck everything inwards instead of upwards?
+platinumchopper won't be any space inwards with all the turbo stuff and fuel
The Fab Forums yeah I see what you mean. I will be racking my brain on some cocktail napkins. Can’t wait to see what you come up with
Enjoyed this episode more than others (I still enjoy others). Not real sure why, but it was good man, keep it up.
+Kirch93 thanks
have you considered losing the struts and using upper and lower control arms?
+Adam Pierce No it wouldn't fit the foxbody era....this build is all about doing something different and upper and lower control setup is used all the time
I wrote the comment before I watched your video to the end. I see your philosophy and understand what you are trying to do. Sorry for shooting from the hip.
I know you want to stay true with the fox body parts, but the problem with McPherson struts, is you have to have a support directly above the strut. This is due to the strut itself acting as a suspension member (usually the steering kingpin axis and controls motion of wheel through travel). I'm assuming you've thought about using bags, but so has everyone else... That being said, I might have a few ideas on how to hydraulically control this even with adjustable ride height.
yeah the strut will remain in the factory location and function as it should.
The pipe bender, welding table and other shop tools are not on your tool list. Could you please add them?
you talking about my amazon list?
@@Thefabforums Yes I believe it is the Amazon list. Is there another list of other tools somewhere not from Amazon? I'd love to know what pipe bender you're using.
@@bostoncarter1026 the one I have is the 105hd.
It's made by pro tools. The think it is very similar to the jd squared unit as well
The Fab Forums Thank you Kyle. I’m loving your channel.
I know you're wanting to go all metal on this thing but I love the red color on it. You should do bare metal on the body and the red on the tube and inside of it.
Excellent work, the way you describe how and why makes it pretty easy to get my head wrapped around what you are trying to do. What is the name of the music used at 8:35? pretty catchy tune. Keep up the good work and Thank you.
thanks man
Awesome dang looking good bro . Im not really a welder my self but you give a motivation to start building something so just got me a new welder im about to get down on building a steel bumper on my truck ..
+A DAY WITH PEKE awesome...glad I could help ;)
Dude the leverage off your suspension links through the hydraulic cylinders and into your frame is going to be insane.
thanks
Have you thought short lowering coilovers, also was the thought of rear independent suspension considered?
the strut length is the issue not the coil over it self...I stuck with the live axle mainly because I already had it and its true to the fox era
I just started following your channel and I'm already hooked on this bibster build. Great stuff.
+Japjongetje awesome...thanks
What kind of tubing to use for roll cage/chassis??? Does it matter?
yeah DOM mild steel of Chromoly
Cantilever front suspension. You can place the shocks horizontally, or close to it, and also use horizontal adjusting rams . Some of the ones I've seen online become artwork that you want to show off.
yeah....im looking to do something different than whats already been done, but same kind of idea
Make the cantilevers the running Mustang symbol...or a Ford oval.
Hey Kyle,
That welder and torch cooler looks awesome but do you have a link of where I could buy one?
All help in finding a good deal on one of these setups is much appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Pete.
thanks - you can check them out here
Thanks for the quick reply but do you have a link so I could go have a look at the price of the welder/cooler.
Thanks again,
Pete.
Never mind I found the Australian dealer and the prices are very reasonable but I will have to go for the
power TIG 255 EXT because I only have single phase 240 volt power and the power TIG 325 EXT is 415 volt 3 phase.
You could get some DEI Gold heat barrier to help with your heat soaking issue
probably gonna do that
looking really good kyle. going to try and make it down to PITS this year
+troy king awesome....thanks
Looks good dude I think Wilwood has what your looking for
Would front pushrod suspension be too complicated?
no but it wouldnt be true to the fox era theme
Ever considered laying the front struts back to match the angle of the windshield and incorporating hydraulic steering? Just a thought.
it would have way too much caster if the struts where laid back.... they need to stay similar to the factory angle
I have though about hydro steering but the problem is that its too dangerous for public roads
Just wondering how you doing turbo with carb on the engine?
blow thru carb
I cant remember if you mentioned oit on a previous video but what about fuel tank?
+skerky10mm probably gonna go in the cowl area
Looking killer dude,the rear tubes are looking sweet nice layout so far.Triangulate your suspension points to the MAX 👍
+MRTYREMULISHA thanks
how do you like the eastwood metal conditioner? ive been thinking about getting one
+Dick Cage love it !
Think if you look at the ariel atom suspension you might get some ideas for the front suspension
+VENOMVETTE not really interested in doing anything that's already been done
Cantilevers up front!! race car tech but it'll allow you to run the shocks close to horizontal, saving on strut tower height. just a thought, might be a bit of work but it would look ridiculously cool, looking rad so far man!
+Jody Barrett thanks
Hey mate. Not sure what your running ecu wise if any. Have you thought about fly by wire for the throttle?
havent thought that far ahead yet
i would deff give it a double coil over cantilever strut setup. the look would be bad ass running parallel to the motor
Yeah the mock ups I have dome look awesome, but probably going to try and still to the traditional strut setup is I can get a decent look out of it.
You could use a solid I beam axle in the front and run the hydraulic ram over the front of the motor and use one ram on bell cranks attached to the cylinder on one end and coil overs on the other.
+Shaun Phillips that's kind of the theme
+Shaun Phillips that's kind of the theme
Any reason for not going with airbags?
Might of missed it, but counter leaver bags at the front how you where going to mount the hydraulics. Hidden away 👌
+Taylormade I have a lot of reasons but mainly space, rigidity, noise and to just be different.
The Fab Forums fair enough, wicked build either way 👍
Looking good Kyle.
+DERICK CLUTE thanks
That front end is going to be tricky!
I am pretty curious as to how your suspension rig comes together.
Going to look uber cool!
Are you going with straightish front fender....Kind of carry on the rocker pannel/lower door pannel sides with a rolled over (the tire) fender Kyle? Keep the existing hood drop angle with Rolled fenders outboard so to speak?
Does that even make sense ? :) lol!
I think I get where you are going....Time will tell!
+Smokin07ram No front fenders....what you see is basically what it will be
Love the Bibbster and the channel! I've seen rock buggies utilizing the chassis tubing to flow coolant to the rear radiator setup, maybe an option. Regardless nice work keep creating cool stuff!
+BuildTrainChill thanks man
I would think the caster sweep would be horrible with the solid strut as described.
A hanging Howe or willwood pedal assembly would also put the cylinders and reservoirs internal, cleaning up the firewall and solve some heat issues. Just some thoughts
+blueduece64 it may actually have a better caster sweep with the way I have looked at doing it....I thought about a lot of the internal setups but they would be true to the fox body era.
The Fab Forums interested to see, have you guesstimated sweep travel? Easy to do if you have both pivot points guesstimated. Love the vids, and fresh take. watching from the mid state
i thought you were gonna do a hotrod style front end, like with a 2wd cherokee front axle with radius arms and hydraulics. im interested to see what you will build!
+RC Spear Rock it will be hotrod ish
Also... Curious. Are these the wheels that will be on the finished product?
+Jason Clark yes
Gonna need dual radiator caps. One on radiator. One with a high pressure relief rating at the highest point in engine's coolant system, between the intake manifold and thermostat. Then you can fill the engine first, put the front cap on, then fill radiator. You could bleed system at heater-core fittings on front of the intake, but functionally I'm sure having a cap up there will give the peace of mind anyone would want, along with safety factor of pressure relief redundancy(nobody wants a radiator full of hot coolant bursting right behind them).
+Jeff Evans Yeah if I just have a vent up from it will fill the entire system from the rear.
I was driving a car with a rear rad setup when a coolant hose blew.... Not pleasant!
What do you use to make mock up sheet metal panels, the thick paper type stuff. Is that just scrap or is it specifically for that?
+Conner Wheatley it's called chip board. I try to reuse it as much as I can
The Fab Forums alright cool, thanks!
+Conner Wheatley No prob
thanks looks better than card board
Try looking at heat shields that drifters use for there master cylinders. It might be able to get you in the direction your looking for
+Richard Culbertson yeah I'm gonna have to figure something out
Looking good son ! You say that you're almost done with the 1 5/8 tube then continuing with 1 1/2 . Does 1/8 " make that much difference ? besides weight savings
+mike jones Yeah that 1/8 along with the reduced wall thickness makes a huge weight difference
Check out what Finnegan is installing on the front end of his C-10. I don't think he has videos out but I saw a picture on his Facebook page. Probably costs $20k but it is a pretty slick set up.
yeah I have seen those....they are pretty cool for sure