Just got me a 1955 JOHNSON CD-12 5.5hp from the great lakes area. No nothing about boat motors. Just got the bottom end for a Nordica sail boat. Really nice shape. Wasn't even thinking of rebuilding till I saw this.. going to top it off with a lawn mower engine. Really great video no wasted time at all !!! NO 4 minute intro etc just potent stuff, like a rattlesnake. So thankful.
This video helped alot, just got done putting new seals, gears, water pump and ignition in the 70 6hp johnson my uncle bought new in 72ish. Surprisingly simple engine.
This is hands down, the best video for doing a gearcase reseal on a 1950s--60s OMC. Ordered my parts, and look forward to working on my '58 QD-19 in a couple weeks. Thanks!
Great video. Just purchased a 1960 10hp Sportwin that has only been used for about 10 hours. Needs a good clean up but this video has sorted my lower end out. Thanks.
To get the brass bushing out with minimal damage, get a bolt that easily fit's thru the bushing and grind the bolt head so it's just slightly larger than the hole. Insert the bolt from behind thru the bushing, thru a metal bar and screw a nut on it. Now keep tightening the nut until the bushing is out. This way there's no need for tapping.
Finally, Finally someone takes their time AND gets the camera right in there up close and shows all the parts, plus does it on a clean uncluttered workbench without all sorts of other shit scattered around so you can't tell what came outta the unit and what's left over from some dude's lawn mower rebuild. Well done! (Sure, some of your seal and bushing removal might be done other ways but you got the big idea that we need to see what you're doing and how....) Thumbs up and subbed!!
Never mind my question a moment ago, I found you had answered it in an earlier post. Thanks for the great vid, first time I'm trying this, I will watch it as I work --
Harold Lee Miller check out my other videos..... I feel I do a better job explaining the process. Also don’t use the “tap” method of getting the brass bushing out. Use this method th-cam.com/video/wQRtfWKXyEI/w-d-xo.html using a 5/16th rod (if you have a 20 or 25 hp Lower Unit) or you need to by the OMC tool 0304514
Really would have liked to see the actual work being done. It's still an informative video. Not sure if it's for time. I know you said you didn't want to shake the camera. Just my 2 cents. Thanks for the help.
Awesome video. I’m rebuilding a 1956 15hp gearcase. I put in new shift rod seal, prop shaft impeller seal and O-ring, new driveshaft seal. I have it all together without impeller. Put 9-1/2 psi in gearcase with a pressure tester. Placed in a bucket of water. After a short while I had two tiny bubble streams, both out of the driveshaft seal. Not at the shaft but Where the seal is pressed into the gearcase housing! Metal to metal. So I did not put sealant on the perimeter of the new seal. It was not pre coated like the prop shaft seal. Obviously I can’t remove it without destroying the new seal. Can I apply sealant on the outside of the installed seal and will that seal it up? Should I replace it and use sealant around the outer rim?
This old Outbord sells shift shaft rod removal installation tool for 20 bucks before the pandemic works great easy Peezy I used it 5 times so far best 20 bucks I ever spent last used on 59 35hp Johnson
Hello, Great video! I have a 1969 18hp Fastwin. Where could I purchase a new seal & gasket kit for the gear box. The impeller/water pump parts are available, but no sign of gear box kits. Thank you.
Hi, I’m working on a 1961 10hp and struggling to find an answer to which way the two oil seals (water pump housing and the prop head) are installed. In this video the flat metal part is in the outside. In a few other videos I saw them installed the other way. HELP!
Hey man I got a similar motor. I thought it was the same but the central gear, I think it's called the pinion gear. On the end of the drive shaft. For be it is definitely different than the one in the video. I can't get it off at all. Just wanted to know if you had any tips. It's a 1959 10 hp evinrude sportwin
I picked up a 35 hp 1959 Johnson it looks just like that one on the bottom except bigger it’s got water in lower unit oil no no metal just black 90 wait gear oil with a little water in it 50 bucks and started right up after sitting 20 years
I removed the brass bushing from my rd-19 by using a length of 1/4 inch threaded rod. I mushroomed one end so it would just barely pass through the lower unit housing, but not the brass bushing. I laid a piece of scrap 1/2 inch thick steel (with a 1/4 inch hole drilled in it to receive the threaded rod) on top of the housing, put on a washer and nut and it popped out easily with just a few turns of a wrench.
yeah I don't tap the bushing anymore. You can do what you did, order the correct extraction tool, or sometimes you can buy the right bar stock to where you dont have to mushroom the head (see this video: th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=wQRtfWKXyEI) In the comments of the above video is the part number for the extraction tool
Is there any point to replacing that brass bushing if it was nice and tight when it came out. I don't really want to buy a new one if I there isn't a good reason. Also wanted to mention, many of my lower unit parts were pretty badly gunked up from sitting in a grease/water mixture for nearly ten years. I've been using an electrolysis rust removing process and I am amazed at how well I am able to get these parts back into shape. Including the pinion gear bearings that were all frozen solid. Soaked those in PB Blaster to get them apart and the electrolysis is really doing a great job making things smooth again.
Thomas Tipton if the bushing goes back in tight you should be good to go; as long as you put in a fresh o ring of course. Thanks for the electrolysis tip. Could you share with me what you are using and the process? Thanks!!!
antique-engines.com/electrol.asp will tell you everything you need to know. It's really pretty simple. You'll need a five gallon bucket, some water, an automotive battery charger. (Mine's only a 6 amp and works fine.) Some steel re-bar or other scrap steel, some re-bar tie wire works great for hanging your parts with, and some Arm & Hammer Washing Soda that you'll find in the laundry detergent section. Most importantly, make sure you connect the black (negative) lead to the part you are cleaning. Have fun!
I am about to do the lower unit of my 1957 18 HP Johnson. I noted your seal kits go to 58, any chance that same seal kit will fit my 57? great video and clarity thank you for this.
there is a removal tool for the brass shift bushing. do you by chance know what it is? i think its easier to just bite the bullet and buy the bushing removal rod.
if u guys remove the pinion and gear and its the one with loose roller bearings that fall out. u can use grease to stick them back into place because you will fight for hours trying to balance them in place while inserting pinion gear....
Here is the parts diagram for your lower unit: www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1968&hp=33&model=33802M&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=Gearcase+Group It will be similar but you will have more bearings / seals to worry about that the 10 Hp lower unit in my video (see find numbers 13, 27-31, 43, and 47 in the link above)
JR, Should you be able to turn the drive shaft with your hand? I can only turn it using a pair of pliers. And not the pin to turn the impeller. my drive shaft has a small hole towards the top near the grooves. A pin goes through the shaft and I guess fits into a slot on the bottom of the engine platform.
Great video! You didnt mention about checking the driveshaft brass bushings. I found both my upper and lowers are really worn and sloppy. Does anyone make replacement bushings? Mine is a 1976 25602E
JR, I am joining the lower and upper units after rebuilding the lower unit. Should I be able to turn the drive shaft at this point? And I have to insert the little pin through the drive shaft and aline it in the grove at the engine platform, correct?
Jon Pickett yes you should be able to turn it. You will get some resistance from the rubber impeller but it should turn. And yes to your last question if you are referring the to little pin that sticks in the drive shaft and turns the impeller when the shaft turns
I don’t know if your question was answered but I knock my shift rod seals out the back ! No need to tap ! You can buy a rod to do this job from Richard White with the AOMCI club !
What do you do when your drive shaft is stuck ?it the motor ? my lower gears look like a bomb went off in there I got a replacement lowergear case and driveshaft any help will be good I lubed the crap out of it and it’s hanging upside down on a tree with duckbill clamps for a week now
My '55 lower unit does not have the "dreaded" phillips head screw that everyone says not to remove (when only changing the oil). In that this is a '59 - any idea if that phillips head was added post '55? I know you mentioned at the beginning that most of these lower units were the same throughout the years.
Great video. I do have a evinrude 10hp sportwin. Will this method work for the brass bushing? Do you need a new brass bushing if you use this method rather than tapping it? Thank you in advance.
If you don’t use the tap method then you shouldn’t need a new bushing. If you do NOT use the taping method then you need this: The Bushing Removal Tool and is OMC part 0304514. You can find it on www.boats.net for less than $10
Good idea to grease the freshly installed seals to let first insertion of prop or drive shaft go easily through the seals with a dry seal being damaged...
Purchase a 1/4" x 4" socket head cap screw - grind the OD of the head just slightly larger than the ID of the brass bushing, drop it thru, you have the option of either using a phillips head screwdriver or a long punch that will fit the allen head ID and drive the bushing assy out OR conversely pulling it like gear puller. $2.50 for your custom tool, then you can reuse the bushing
Yes I have. The scotch weld is a fuel and oil resistive sealant. Its not a JB Weld-like epoxy. I find it better than using blue RTV and cheaper than using the BRP gasket sealing compound you can find on Amazon ( amzn.to/2ROLlqD )
Great Video!!!! I like all ur videos they help me alot w my gsrage full of OMC motors. Now i have a 25r72r. The gears look fine but it will slip at high rpm like the prop bushing is bad. Got a new prop. Could the thrush washer cause this?? Thanks
@@thisoldoutboard oh she done! All New gearcase seals and oil, long-to-short conversion, new points and coils, fixed that loose magneto plate, carb kit, new fuel pump and lines, retapped 2 stripped bolt holes in the reed plate, re-added my electric start, and a heavy duty seafoam treatment... my frankentwin is ready for a test run, but today imma go get degreaser/cleaner because I want to spray it with primer before the rains come, it’s gonna be painted to match the Barracuda hydrocycle it’s eventually Powering. I watched your painting video last night. I’m starting that project in a day or 2, needs complete and extensive gelcoat work, it’s been sitting in the weather for a loooooooooooooong time and the gelcoat is a maze of spider cracks, gonna have to resin the entire top half and sand back down and fix some old holes and a couple weaker spots and I have the transom replacement ready to put back together and glass in...
charles spencer will it not shift even when the lower unit is removed from the powerhead? When you say not shift do you mean not even budge or just not engage? If it won't budge you'll probably have to at least take off the skeg and have a peek. If it won't budge then either you didn't assemble the gear train back correctly or your brass bushing is off center not allowing the shift rod to slide (it's in a bind) That's all I can think of off hand.
charles spencer the only thing that would not let it shift is the rod being bent, bushing and rod in a bind, an issue with the clutch dog, and issue with the pivot mechanism that activates the clutch dog
The easiest way to remove the brass bushing is 5/16 steel rod you can buy from lots of places for couple bucks. Just put in from back hammer it light and it will be out.
You mentioned in the video having the spagetti gasket overhang the end of the gasket raceway by a small amount. How much are we talking about? 1/16" on each side? More? Less? You didn't have a great close-up of it when you did that part. Thanks and great video. :-)
Id say 1/16th of an inch is a good ballpark. You don't want to leave too little and unintentionally leave a gap and you don't want to leave too much "tag" end that it binds up the rest of the spaghetti string when you put it all together. The goal is to get a good seal where the spaghetti gasket buts up against the gear case head ( this part: goo.gl/h5MuEa ).
Jon, From the diagram at the link below it looks like you need 303332 www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1969&hp=6&model=6902M&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=Gearcase+Group
A diagram of your gearcase is here - bit.ly/2oXRMcb A diagram of the gearcase in the video is here - bit.ly/2pxCzjW They look to be pretty different especially as to how you extract the gears. Marine Engine is a great website. A link to your motor is: www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1977&hp=115
Can’t get in the website for the shift rod brass bushing part number for my 10 hp 1963 evinrude sportwind can u help me out with the part number.. thanks very helpful video 👍👍
Yes, the o-ring would come with the kit and you would not need to buy it separately. Make sure to watch this video in how to remove the bushing , properly. If you do it this way you may not have to buy a bushing; you could just reuse it. th-cam.com/video/wQRtfWKXyEI/w-d-xo.html
Sorry to bother once again... just making sure before I buy it wats the part number for the lower unit seal kit for my 1963 10 hp evinrude sportwind .. is it the same one as the one you’re using on the video 18-2682 ??
If any one has a qd-20 drive shaft. Mine has a cracked key slot from an exploaded lower pinion gear. I got a new lower prop shaft but i cant find a main drive....
You need drive shaft part number 307756. You may have to find a “cheap” lower unit off eBay and get the drive shaft that way See the chart at the bottom of the page in this link thisoldoutboard.com/johnson-evinrude-lower-unit-compatibility/
thisoldoutboard I will find it for you. Its marineengine.com they have fullpart diagrams with exploded views for ordering from parts list. I bought a main shaft, ill let you know when/if it arrives in proper fashion.
Jon Pickett does this diagram help: www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1969&hp=6&model=6902M&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=Gearcase+Group Find number 8 says it's a "roll pin". It doesn't look like it engages a slot and the description "roll" makes me think it's not a shear pin of some sort I guess you've noticed I'm not as familiar with the 6 hp motors
Jon Pickett yes the drive shaft should turn. Did you have to force the drive shaft through the seals? Try removing the water impeller and seeing it it will turn then
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Just got me a 1955 JOHNSON CD-12 5.5hp from the great lakes area. No nothing about boat motors. Just got the bottom end for a Nordica sail boat. Really nice shape. Wasn't even thinking of rebuilding till I saw this.. going to top it off with a lawn mower engine.
Really great video no wasted time at all !!! NO 4 minute intro etc just potent stuff, like a rattlesnake. So thankful.
Best video of this on TH-cam. Very professional and to the point.
Good views and helping us with the links helped me order the correct parts.
This video helped alot, just got done putting new seals, gears, water pump and ignition in the 70 6hp johnson my uncle bought new in 72ish. Surprisingly simple engine.
This is hands down, the best video for doing a gearcase reseal on a 1950s--60s OMC. Ordered my parts, and look forward to working on my '58 QD-19 in a couple weeks. Thanks!
Great video. Just purchased a 1960 10hp Sportwin that has only been used for about 10 hours. Needs a good clean up but this video has sorted my lower end out. Thanks.
To get the brass bushing out with minimal damage, get a bolt that easily fit's thru the bushing and grind the bolt head so it's just slightly larger than the hole. Insert the bolt from behind thru the bushing, thru a metal bar and screw a nut on it. Now keep tightening the nut until the bushing is out. This way there's no need for tapping.
That is definitely one way to do it and if you can avoid tapping the bushing that would be preferred.
i have to agree with obc it is the best vid for resealing gearcase hands down thanks for the vid
Finally, Finally someone takes their time AND gets the camera right in there up close and shows all the parts, plus does it on a clean uncluttered workbench without all sorts of other shit scattered around so you can't tell what came outta the unit and what's left over from some dude's lawn mower rebuild. Well done! (Sure, some of your seal and bushing removal might be done other ways but you got the big idea that we need to see what you're doing and how....) Thumbs up and subbed!!
Man I can't thank you enough for this. Great video and explanation. I'm rebuilding a 1959 cd-16 5.5hp. Nice work!!!
Never mind my question a moment ago, I found you had answered it in an earlier post. Thanks for the great vid, first time I'm trying this, I will watch it as I work --
Harold Lee Miller check out my other videos..... I feel I do a better job explaining the process. Also don’t use the “tap” method of getting the brass bushing out. Use this method th-cam.com/video/wQRtfWKXyEI/w-d-xo.html using a 5/16th rod (if you have a 20 or 25 hp Lower Unit) or you need to by the OMC tool 0304514
If you get stuck send a question/picture to thisoldoutboard@gmail.com
Really would have liked to see the actual work being done. It's still an informative video. Not sure if it's for time. I know you said you didn't want to shake the camera. Just my 2 cents. Thanks for the help.
best info on old omc lower units !!
Awesome video.
I’m rebuilding a 1956 15hp gearcase. I put in new shift rod seal, prop shaft impeller seal and O-ring, new driveshaft seal. I have it all together without impeller. Put 9-1/2 psi in gearcase with a pressure tester. Placed in a bucket of water. After a short while I had two tiny bubble streams, both out of the driveshaft seal. Not at the shaft but Where the seal is pressed into the gearcase housing! Metal to metal.
So I did not put sealant on the perimeter of the new seal. It was not pre coated like the prop shaft seal.
Obviously I can’t remove it without destroying the new seal.
Can I apply sealant on the outside of the installed seal and will that seal it up?
Should I replace it and use sealant around the outer rim?
Extremely well done , very thorough !
This old Outbord sells shift shaft rod removal installation tool for 20 bucks before the pandemic works great easy Peezy I used it 5 times so far best 20 bucks I ever spent last used on 59 35hp Johnson
Hello, Great video! I have a 1969 18hp Fastwin. Where could I purchase a new seal & gasket kit for the gear box. The impeller/water pump parts are available, but no sign of gear box kits. Thank you.
Hi, I’m working on a 1961 10hp and struggling to find an answer to which way the two oil seals (water pump housing and the prop head) are installed. In this video the flat metal part is in the outside. In a few other videos I saw them installed the other way. HELP!
Can you show where you bought your Brass shift shaft bushing for all 1955 Evinrude 7.5 hp
Hey man I got a similar motor. I thought it was the same but the central gear, I think it's called the pinion gear. On the end of the drive shaft. For be it is definitely different than the one in the video. I can't get it off at all. Just wanted to know if you had any tips. It's a 1959 10 hp evinrude sportwin
Thanks for the video, I'm working on two Evinrude 9.5 motors and this is exactly what I needed.
Back40 Adventures I have one I’m working on now
I can’t get the drive shaft out gonna have to beat it out
Been looking for a video and kit thatd work for my sea king and you did it, thank you!
I picked up a 35 hp 1959 Johnson it looks just like that one on the bottom except bigger it’s got water in lower unit oil no no metal just black 90 wait gear oil with a little water in it 50 bucks and started right up after sitting 20 years
What kit do I order for a 15 hp 1956 fastwin model 15918
Do you not add any sealant to the bearing housing gasket? The gasket between the drive shaft housing assembly and the lower unit
I removed the brass bushing from my rd-19 by using a length of 1/4 inch threaded rod. I mushroomed one end so it would just barely pass through the lower unit housing, but not the brass bushing. I laid a piece of scrap 1/2 inch thick steel (with a 1/4 inch hole drilled in it to receive the threaded rod) on top of the housing, put on a washer and nut and it popped out easily with just a few turns of a wrench.
yeah I don't tap the bushing anymore.
You can do what you did, order the correct extraction tool, or sometimes you can buy the right bar stock to where you dont have to mushroom the head (see this video: th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=wQRtfWKXyEI)
In the comments of the above video is the part number for the extraction tool
Is there any point to replacing that brass bushing if it was nice and tight when it came out. I don't really want to buy a new one if I there isn't a good reason. Also wanted to mention, many of my lower unit parts were pretty badly gunked up from sitting in a grease/water mixture for nearly ten years. I've been using an electrolysis rust removing process and I am amazed at how well I am able to get these parts back into shape. Including the pinion gear bearings that were all frozen solid. Soaked those in PB Blaster to get them apart and the electrolysis is really doing a great job making things smooth again.
Thomas Tipton if the bushing goes back in tight you should be good to go; as long as you put in a fresh o ring of course.
Thanks for the electrolysis tip. Could you share with me what you are using and the process?
Thanks!!!
antique-engines.com/electrol.asp will tell you everything you need to know. It's really pretty simple. You'll need a five gallon bucket, some water, an automotive battery charger. (Mine's only a 6 amp and works fine.) Some steel re-bar or other scrap steel, some re-bar tie wire works great for hanging your parts with, and some Arm & Hammer Washing Soda that you'll find in the laundry detergent section. Most importantly, make sure you connect the black (negative) lead to the part you are cleaning. Have fun!
I am about to do the lower unit of my 1957 18 HP Johnson. I noted your seal kits go to 58, any chance that same seal kit will fit my 57? great video and clarity thank you for this.
Yes it will
there is a removal tool for the brass shift bushing. do you by chance know what it is? i think its easier to just bite the bullet and buy the bushing removal rod.
Yes sir. Link to the tool here: www.ebay.com/itm/274447321176
if u guys remove the pinion and gear and its the one with loose roller bearings that fall out. u can use grease to stick them back into place because you will fight for hours trying to balance them in place while inserting pinion gear....
This video is a huge help. I’ve picked up a ‘68 SkiTwin 33HP. Do you know if the process is similar to what you’ve shown here?
Here is the parts diagram for your lower unit: www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1968&hp=33&model=33802M&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=Gearcase+Group
It will be similar but you will have more bearings / seals to worry about that the 10 Hp lower unit in my video (see find numbers 13, 27-31, 43, and 47 in the link above)
JR, Should you be able to turn the drive shaft with your hand? I can only turn it using a pair of pliers.
And not the pin to turn the impeller. my drive shaft has a small hole towards the top near the grooves. A pin goes through the shaft and I guess fits into a slot on the bottom of the engine platform.
Jon Pickett I can turn it by hand but it's tight. What year and HP motor do you have?
Is there a current source for the higher quality spaghetti seal. The source referenced says it’s out of stock.
I notice the seal kit I bought also didn't include the brass fitting -- any reason it can't be used again, if it isn't visibly damaged getting it out?
Harold Lee Miller you’re right the seal kit doesn’t include the brass bushing. it can definitely be reused if it’s not damaged. Hope that helped!!
Great video! You didnt mention about checking the driveshaft brass bushings. I found both my upper and lowers are really worn and sloppy. Does anyone make replacement bushings? Mine is a 1976 25602E
JR, I am joining the lower and upper units after rebuilding the lower unit. Should I be able to turn the drive shaft at this point? And I have to insert the little pin through the drive shaft and aline it in the grove at the engine platform, correct?
Jon Pickett yes you should be able to turn it. You will get some resistance from the rubber impeller but it should turn. And yes to your last question if you are referring the to little pin that sticks in the drive shaft and turns the impeller when the shaft turns
I don’t know if your question was answered but I knock my shift rod seals out the back ! No need to tap ! You can buy a rod to do this job from Richard White with the AOMCI club !
my motor is from 1983 model number E25RCTE. I do not see that rear in your list for kits, could you please help point me to it?
What do you do when your drive shaft is stuck ?it the motor ? my lower gears look like a bomb went off in there
I got a replacement lowergear case and driveshaft any help will be good I lubed the crap out of it and it’s hanging upside down on a tree with duckbill clamps for a week now
My '55 lower unit does not have the "dreaded" phillips head screw that everyone says not to remove (when only changing the oil). In that this is a '59 - any idea if that phillips head was added post '55? I know you mentioned at the beginning that most of these lower units were the same throughout the years.
Great video. I do have a evinrude 10hp sportwin. Will this method work for the brass bushing? Do you need a new brass bushing if you use this method rather than tapping it? Thank you in advance.
If you don’t use the tap method then you shouldn’t need a new bushing. If you do NOT use the taping method then you need this: The Bushing Removal Tool and is OMC part 0304514. You can find it on www.boats.net for less than $10
One more question, does the power head have to be removed to pull the lower unit.. 1953 Johnson QD14-A 10 HP? Thanks in advance..
On the 10 hps it does NOT
Good idea to grease the freshly installed seals to let first insertion of prop or drive shaft go easily through the seals with a dry seal being damaged...
Agreed Chris, I should've done that in the video.
Hello buddy, I have a 1953 Johnson QD14-A 10hp.. what lower unit seals kit? Also would you happen to know what tune up kit/ carb.. thank you,
1954 kits will work for your motor. Find them here -- thisoldoutboard.com/johnson-evinrude/
@@thisoldoutboard thank you,I really appreciate it. Your videos are life savers.. God Bless
Purchase a 1/4" x 4" socket head cap screw - grind the OD of the head just slightly larger than the ID of the brass bushing, drop it thru, you have the option of either using a phillips head screwdriver or a long punch that will fit the allen head ID and drive the bushing assy out OR conversely pulling it like gear puller. $2.50 for your custom tool, then you can reuse the bushing
Ok. How do you get the spaghetti seal to stay put on the tight bends. Mine keeps falling off.
Damn good video thumbs up for you
Only thing I didn't care for was the Scotch Weld. Have you ever tried pulling one apart that you used that stuff on?
Yes I have. The scotch weld is a fuel and oil resistive sealant. Its not a JB Weld-like epoxy. I find it better than using blue RTV and cheaper than using the BRP gasket sealing compound you can find on Amazon ( amzn.to/2ROLlqD )
Awsome job thanks
Very good!
Do you have a video of how to take off the gearcase from the whole motor?
Great Video!!!!
I like all ur videos they help me alot w my gsrage full of OMC motors. Now i have a 25r72r.
The gears look fine but it will slip at high rpm like the prop bushing is bad. Got a new prop. Could the thrush washer cause this??
Thanks
Cody Goodin the clutch dog may be reversed and or the "ears" of the clutch dog may be worn down. Make sense?
great video!
Hey I just need to swap a long shaft for a short, doesn’t the shaft come out once the water pump housing is off? Or do I need to take that beat off?
You need to disassemble the gearcase to remove the shaft
@@thisoldoutboard oh she done! All New gearcase seals and oil, long-to-short conversion, new points and coils, fixed that loose magneto plate, carb kit, new fuel pump and lines, retapped 2 stripped bolt holes in the reed plate, re-added my electric start, and a heavy duty seafoam treatment... my frankentwin is ready for a test run, but today imma go get degreaser/cleaner because I want to spray it with primer before the rains come, it’s gonna be painted to match the Barracuda hydrocycle it’s eventually Powering.
I watched your painting video last night. I’m starting that project in a day or 2, needs complete and extensive gelcoat work, it’s been sitting in the weather for a loooooooooooooong time and the gelcoat is a maze of spider cracks, gonna have to resin the entire top half and sand back down and fix some old holes and a couple weaker spots and I have the transom replacement ready to put back together and glass in...
I have a 59 evinrude 18 hp and I replaced the seals now it won't shift into reverse do you know what I should look for to solve the problem
charles spencer will it not shift even when the lower unit is removed from the powerhead? When you say not shift do you mean not even budge or just not engage?
If it won't budge you'll probably have to at least take off the skeg and have a peek.
If it won't budge then either you didn't assemble the gear train back correctly or your brass bushing is off center not allowing the shift rod to slide (it's in a bind)
That's all I can think of off hand.
charles spencer the only thing that would not let it shift is the rod being bent, bushing and rod in a bind, an issue with the clutch dog, and issue with the pivot mechanism that activates the clutch dog
shift rod came off clutch dog. its possible and i have had it happen due to imporper install
The easiest way to remove the brass bushing is 5/16 steel rod you can buy from lots of places for couple bucks. Just put in from back hammer it light and it will be out.
You mentioned in the video having the spagetti gasket overhang the end of the gasket raceway by a small amount. How much are we talking about? 1/16" on each side? More? Less? You didn't have a great close-up of it when you did that part. Thanks and great video. :-)
Id say 1/16th of an inch is a good ballpark.
You don't want to leave too little and unintentionally leave a gap and you don't want to leave too much "tag" end that it binds up the rest of the spaghetti string when you put it all together. The goal is to get a good seal where the spaghetti gasket buts up against the gear case head ( this part: goo.gl/h5MuEa ).
Thanks.
Great video! Very helpful. Can you confirm part #304765 is the correct Shift Rod Brass Bushing for 1969 Evinrude 6hp, pease? Thanks much.
Jon, From the diagram at the link below it looks like you need 303332
www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1969&hp=6&model=6902M&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=Gearcase+Group
I agree. I found the part number at Marine Engine.com too. These guys have have the parts, and it looks like good prices. Thanks again.
the 79-82 kits are out of stock on amazon, anyone find any availability on those?
I picked up a '77 Evinrude 115hp...any reason it would be crazy different than this?
A diagram of your gearcase is here - bit.ly/2oXRMcb
A diagram of the gearcase in the video is here - bit.ly/2pxCzjW
They look to be pretty different especially as to how you extract the gears.
Marine Engine is a great website. A link to your motor is: www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1977&hp=115
You are awesome!! I guess it has more to do with HP than age of the motor for why its different
Is there no way to save the brass bushing or will you ruin it during the takedown process? Great video btw
The official OMC tool part number is 327693 from what I have read. They are hard to find.
I'll give that a try. Thanks for the quick reply
Can’t get in the website for the shift rod brass bushing part number for my 10 hp 1963 evinrude sportwind can u help me out with the part number.. thanks very helpful video 👍👍
Hey thanks. Your bushing part number is 303332 and the o-ring that goes with it is 301877.
Im going to buy the seal kit as well .. does the O ring cum in the kit ?
Yes, the o-ring would come with the kit and you would not need to buy it separately. Make sure to watch this video in how to remove the bushing , properly. If you do it this way you may not have to buy a bushing; you could just reuse it. th-cam.com/video/wQRtfWKXyEI/w-d-xo.html
Ok u been very helpful... thanks a lot keep it up 👍👍👍
Sorry to bother once again... just making sure before I buy it wats the part number for the lower unit seal kit for my 1963 10 hp evinrude sportwind .. is it the same one as the one you’re using on the video 18-2682 ??
sper job and video
do i have to have dent spring in a 1975 25 HP evinrude
Yes you do
@@thisoldoutboard do you know where i can buy one.i bought the two bearings.but can not find the spring..thanks
www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1975&hp=25&model=25EL75B&manufacturer=Johnson§ion=Gearcase
@@thisoldoutboard thank u so much..i have been looking for 3 days
@@thisoldoutboard i just look and it says it is unavailable
To get that bushing out try heating it up and dump cold water on it but keep your face away it will shoot out really quick
Or, just buy the shift rod bushing removal tool. Which is what I should’ve done. The tool is found here: www.ebay.com/itm/274447321176
Hi, you could have saved hours with the SVC TOOL,REMOVER 0304514. Great video tho...!!
If any one has a qd-20 drive shaft. Mine has a cracked key slot from an exploaded lower pinion gear. I got a new lower prop shaft but i cant find a main drive....
You need drive shaft part number 307756. You may have to find a “cheap” lower unit off eBay and get the drive shaft that way
See the chart at the bottom of the page in this link
thisoldoutboard.com/johnson-evinrude-lower-unit-compatibility/
@@thisoldoutboard thx i have been looking i thinkni found a place marineonline or something like that. Its an oem replacement for 165$... ouch
Yeah they are not cheap. I’m interested in knowing the site you are buying it off. That would be good information.
thisoldoutboard I will find it for you. Its marineengine.com they have fullpart diagrams with exploded views for ordering from parts list. I bought a main shaft, ill let you know when/if it arrives in proper fashion.
Would you be willing to sell me 3' of spaghetti seal? I've tried 3 time to get get my skag sealed but it still leaks the gear oil.
Great idea .. try getting your hands out of the damn way so we can see how you're taking it apart and putting it back together?
That brass bushing and oil ring pushed right out when he pushed the shift rod in.
not likely without some strikes from a mallet/hammer.
@@ErgoCogita watch and listen at 19:10 in video and you hear and see that the oil ring and brass hit the floor when he pushed the rod in
@@mulespur4806 hahahahah! Sure as shit!
I used a long bolt that I pounded out seal
JR, I have a 1969 Evinrude Fisherman 6 hp.
Jon Pickett does this diagram help:
www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1969&hp=6&model=6902M&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=Gearcase+Group
Find number 8 says it's a "roll pin". It doesn't look like it engages a slot and the description "roll" makes me think it's not a shear pin of some sort
I guess you've noticed I'm not as familiar with the 6 hp motors
jr_marine Yes, #8 is the pin I am referring to. And it couldn't engage in a slot because the drive shaft wouldn't turn at all.
Jon Pickett yes the drive shaft should turn. Did you have to force the drive shaft through the seals? Try removing the water impeller and seeing it it will turn then
I thought they weren't omc til 80somethin?
Negative