Superb. Thank you. Ran into difficulties yesterday. After decorating I changed all the old sockets and switches for new MK. Nice. One of the switches controlled what I thought was an isolation switch for outside sensor light. I knew the switch was powered direct from a socket in the other room so I replaced the switch with a Fused Spur Switch 3 amp. After doing this the outside lights just stayed on. I couldn't think how the circuit had changed to make the lights stay on so decided to just switch it off and check out a few wiring diagrams here on TH-cam. I can see now exactly what I've done and I need to add an override switch next to my fused spur to allow the full manual override if needed or the sensor switching the lights as required. What a dummy. 😄 Brilliant.... thanks for the vid. Problem solved. Regards Steve
I always use a contactor these days when switching from a PIR. We had some good brand PIRs on a job but we kept loosing them every few months, and we was switching well under load, so far with a contactor they have been going well over the time they was dying. So now I will add a single way contactor in the CU if it is domestic or in an DIN rail enclosure commercially. The relays inside was either welding shut or welding open. I have a feeling it is because we are using LED these days and well the SMPS has an inductive component and not just a resistive like a lamp does, and the PIR manufacturers have not improved there design for the new LED fixtures we are now fitting. With the above job I mentioned I am still waiting for the manufacture to come back with a reason why as they took them all back for testing. So I just see a PIR as a control these days feeding a contactor.
Thanks for the detailed message you are so correct. The video links to an assessment Matt’s learners are carrying out during these difficult times. All the best. Gaz 👍
I see your point but I can honestly say I've never had this situation in the numerous times I've done this with led lamps, and I use the knight pir sensor with the 1kw load limit from TLC so nothing special as regards the pir
Another great video and easy to understand. Would be good idea next time to wire up to show learners like myself. GSH tutors living legends. You guys should be awarded.
Thank you for this, it's been helpful. I was wondering if you could advise me on something, I have an extension cable, running from my outside plug socket, I've connected my ground spike lights to the extension lead, I want to connect a PIR sensor to it, is there an easier way to connect it?
Matt, What various issues would occur if the switch, switched on the PIR...... Or should I place the switch on the switched live... There are times when during the summer months there is plenty of light, but still want to allow a person to switch on lights but if left on the PIR will switched the lights off.
Many thanks for clear instructions Just I have questions the manual override to work with most pir need to be off and on 2 time to work continue on If I use 2 way switch 2 gang one for pir and other for manual override put in this case also need to be off and on 2 time to continue on or no only like normal switch One time switch on or off
7-12-22 If I were going to use a PIR sensor to control drive way and drive entrance pillar lights (I think these are wired into the consumer unit on the same circuit as the two garage strip lights) what amp circuit breaker fuse should I use - or hope to see in the consumer unit… there are two driveway lights and four pillar lights Thanks Paul
I have outside lights with a sensor built in and also a separate PIR by the garage. this has a three wire feed. I put two new light bulbs in and thought that I would clean the separate sensor but I must have damaged it. Can I replace it with an ordinary PIR or a special one? What would the wiring configuration be? Any help would be great.
Thank You. Does anybody know where I can find the circuit diagram symbol for a PIR sensor that meets BS3939? or is this the same as a wiring diagram symbol? Maybe a silly question, sorry in advance. Thanks.
I have one of these in my front porch, its suddenly started turning on and won't go off. Then goes off for a while before coming back on all night. Do you think the sensor is just broken and needs replacing in your opinion? Sensor is clean etc.
This really helps man thanks you!! Somehow my pir is not turning my light on, could it be that there isnt enough current going to the light from switch feed of pir? And also can it be sorted? Thanks
Great video - always helpful to see something like this drawn out and explained! Subscribed! I was wondering, would it be possible to replace the "1 way switch" with a Smart/WiFi relay switch? The use for this would be to override the light from a distance, such as turning the light on/off manually whilst outside (garden lighting etc). Thanks again
For larger loads is a contactor a good solution, (do they make contactors that run coils on 120-240v) or are there sensors that output 24v (heard most contactors use 24)
Have done this countless times, and the amount of times it confuses the customer when you say "leave the switch in the OFF position for the lights to come ON via the sensor" is staggering! 🙄😁
He is doing it wrong! repeating the sensor contacts via a switch is like manually bridging the sensor contacts can damage the sensor controls: here is a simpler and safe method:. th-cam.com/video/Oy1jXfE2jE0/w-d-xo.html
Hi Mat. Ive done exactly that, wago connectors off my existing lighting circuit to a PIR, which is then connected to a 12v transformer with multiple IP rated LED lighting strips in the bathroom. We've found we rarely use the normal switch operated downlights since installation.
Mr J the CPC will follow the same route as the live conductors. Wiring diagrams often don’t show the protective conductor 👍. Thanks for watching and commenting. Gaz
So your not using a blue negative in the diagram????? Is it me I’ve tried to use my blue negative which I thought was correct- but my lights won’t turn off?
Nigel Lewis I will do a video. Basically . live and neutral to the Pir. 3 core and earth to a 4 terminal Junction box, live, neutral and switch live. 3 core and earth then continues to fan, via a 3 pol switch. Twin and earth also from junction box to feed light. Can also put in an override switch for Pir if you wanted
All the integral PIR/Lamp do not have this over ride facility which is ridiculous. its the same with the bathroom extraction fans which do not have time delay off function. All these products should have a warning label " Expensive Rubbish ".
Thanks as always Matt and Gary for helping learners even in lockdown.👍
Superb. Thank you.
Ran into difficulties yesterday. After decorating I changed all the old sockets and switches for new MK. Nice. One of the switches controlled what I thought was an isolation switch for outside sensor light. I knew the switch was powered direct from a socket in the other room so I replaced the switch with a Fused Spur Switch 3 amp. After doing this the outside lights just stayed on. I couldn't think how the circuit had changed to make the lights stay on so decided to just switch it off and check out a few wiring diagrams here on TH-cam. I can see now exactly what I've done and I need to add an override switch next to my fused spur to allow the full manual override if needed or the sensor switching the lights as required. What a dummy. 😄 Brilliant.... thanks for the vid. Problem solved.
Regards
Steve
The world's best teacher thanks
Thanks I will let Matt know 👍🏻
I've done this before... good to see this, i've used four pir to guard a store and trigger a dc alarm
I tried this today on a test bench. It works!
Very helpful and well explained.
Thank you.
Thanks for the amazing support
I always use a contactor these days when switching from a PIR. We had some good brand PIRs on a job but we kept loosing them every few months, and we was switching well under load, so far with a contactor they have been going well over the time they was dying. So now I will add a single way contactor in the CU if it is domestic or in an DIN rail enclosure commercially.
The relays inside was either welding shut or welding open. I have a feeling it is because we are using LED these days and well the SMPS has an inductive component and not just a resistive like a lamp does, and the PIR manufacturers have not improved there design for the new LED fixtures we are now fitting. With the above job I mentioned I am still waiting for the manufacture to come back with a reason why as they took them all back for testing.
So I just see a PIR as a control these days feeding a contactor.
Thanks for the detailed message you are so correct. The video links to an assessment Matt’s learners are carrying out during these difficult times.
All the best. Gaz 👍
I see your point but I can honestly say I've never had this situation in the numerous times I've done this with led lamps, and I use the knight pir sensor with the 1kw load limit from TLC so nothing special as regards the pir
Great video presentation.
Just what I was looking for.
Thanks for sharing.
Another great video and easy to understand. Would be good idea next time to wire up to show learners like myself. GSH tutors living legends. You guys should be awarded.
I am doing this in my garage and this was a huge help! Thank you!
Thanks for the great simple video and the tip about load on the PIR switch. I was going to put 3 20w leds connected
Brilliant.
Thank you mate. I just wired leds into the bath panel, ip rated of course, and wired to a pir and pull cord to overide.
Works perfectly.
You’re actually a better teacher than my supervisor
Great comment 🦾
Cheers, just about to do this in my bathroom!
Keep up the great videos about any tool or device or equipment specialty in these days of covid 19
Thanks as always Ahmed for your support. Stay safe 👍 Gaz
For more lights than the PIR is rated for it can be used to control a contactor instead. Good video. 👍
Simon Aragon Thanks Simon👍. Matt has a video on contactor controlled lights on the channel. Thanks again for commenting and watching. Gaz
There is about 3 videos done and Pir with contactor is one
Good video mate nice and simple
Thanks 👍🏻
I love all the videos from Matt. Keep up the great work 👍
Great video. Very clearly presented. Thanks 👍
Thankyou guys great video, easy to follow. Hope your all keeping safe. This video has been some help 👍
Just what I was looking for.
👍
Thanks for this video it's just what I needed to know. I can now wire the one-way switch
Amazing video. Thank you
Thanks
Thank you for this, it's been helpful. I was wondering if you could advise me on something, I have an extension cable, running from my outside plug socket, I've connected my ground spike lights to the extension lead, I want to connect a PIR sensor to it, is there an easier way to connect it?
Excellent vid for learners
This is a really good video, thank you
Matt, What various issues would occur if the switch, switched on the PIR...... Or should I place the switch on the switched live... There are times when during the summer months there is plenty of light, but still want to allow a person to switch on lights but if left on the PIR will switched the lights off.
Great video,, who can recommend a good PIR for outside lights
Many thanks for clear instructions
Just I have questions the manual override to work with most pir need to be off and on 2 time to work continue on
If I use 2 way switch 2 gang one for pir and other for manual override put in this case also need to be off and on 2 time to continue on or no only like normal switch
One time switch on or off
Thanks Matt. Will part 2 show you actually wiring this with 3-core?
7-12-22
If I were going to use a PIR sensor to control drive way and drive entrance pillar lights (I think these are wired into the consumer unit on the same circuit as the two garage strip lights) what amp circuit breaker fuse should I use - or hope to see in the consumer unit… there are two driveway lights and four pillar lights
Thanks
Paul
Would love to see a wiring diagram for a motion sensor hooked up to a 3-position switch (Sensor/Off/On).
Thanks very much Matt for the video it is very useful.keep it up.want to lean how to wire PIR switch to 2 way switch if any video for this
Ta Matt .. that was really really useful 🤓
I have outside lights with a sensor built in and also a separate PIR by the garage. this has a three wire feed. I put two new light bulbs in and thought that I would clean the separate sensor but I must have damaged it. Can I replace it with an ordinary PIR or a special one? What would the wiring configuration be? Any help would be great.
Thank You. Does anybody know where I can find the circuit diagram symbol for a PIR sensor that meets BS3939? or is this the same as a wiring diagram symbol? Maybe a silly question, sorry in advance. Thanks.
I have one of these in my front porch, its suddenly started turning on and won't go off. Then goes off for a while before coming back on all night. Do you think the sensor is just broken and needs replacing in your opinion? Sensor is clean etc.
Would suggest labelling of PIR Overide switch as such and a use switch with neon indicator. Otherwise override swich can becomes a nuisance switch.
Great idea 👍
I wire PIR’s using a 3 positional switch. It gives you the option for Off, manually on and PIR control automatic.
Tomas Ben Melech I think that is one of the answers me in Matt’s question pack 👍 (also it’s video 5 in this series)
@@GSHElectrical hi, would like to watch this video you are referring to but just came seem to find it, can you help. Many thanks, Ian
This really helps man thanks you!! Somehow my pir is not turning my light on, could it be that there isnt enough current going to the light from switch feed of pir? And also can it be sorted? Thanks
👍
Thanks for this Matt. Btw would it be okay to replace the 1 way switch with a key switch ?
Great video - always helpful to see something like this drawn out and explained! Subscribed!
I was wondering, would it be possible to replace the "1 way switch" with a Smart/WiFi relay switch?
The use for this would be to override the light from a distance, such as turning the light on/off manually whilst outside (garden lighting etc).
Thanks again
For larger loads is a contactor a good solution, (do they make contactors that run coils on 120-240v) or are there sensors that output 24v (heard most contactors use 24)
very good video but still complicated because you didn't mention the color of the wiring
How’s this done with a bigger load like 8 6ft fluorescents
What colours go to the switch. Is it live brown to L1 switch what colour goes to the other part of the switch
Have done this countless times, and the amount of times it confuses the customer when you say "leave the switch in the OFF position for the lights to come ON via the sensor" is staggering! 🙄😁
He is doing it wrong! repeating the sensor contacts via a switch is like manually bridging the sensor contacts can damage the sensor controls: here is a simpler and safe method:. th-cam.com/video/Oy1jXfE2jE0/w-d-xo.html
What happens if PIR is already in switch on position and we switch the over ride on? Chance of short circuit?
could this also be used for some IP rated LED strips in a bathroom?
Did you find an answer to this question, I'm currently considering this, PIR to 12v transformer to led strip lights?
Hi Mat. Ive done exactly that, wago connectors off my existing lighting circuit to a PIR, which is then connected to a 12v transformer with multiple IP rated LED lighting strips in the bathroom. We've found we rarely use the normal switch operated downlights since installation.
@@RTilly91 OK great, Thanks for the quick reply. 👍
cheers
hello sir can i connect three motion sensor in different position to on one light. can you explain how to connect. thank
can pir detect moving vehicles?
Wouldn't it be an issue when switch is turned on and PIR detects motion, there would be a circular live connection.
Of course it's useful
Question: I know this is a basic setup but what about earth?
Mr J the CPC will follow the same route as the live conductors. Wiring diagrams often don’t show the protective conductor 👍. Thanks for watching and commenting. Gaz
Puzzles me why a cpc needs to be taken the sensor, especially one of these plastic twist on photocell type jobs.
So your not using a blue negative in the diagram????? Is it me I’ve tried to use my blue negative which I thought was correct- but my lights won’t turn off?
Can ANYONE direct me to a simple dependable PIR setup where I can power 5 or 10 BRIGHT outdoor lights from a 12 volt car battery?
I want to use a pir to switch a bathroom fan and light but fan need s permanent live because its2 speed
Nigel Lewis I will do a video. Basically . live and neutral to the Pir. 3 core and earth to a 4 terminal Junction box, live, neutral and switch live. 3 core and earth then continues to fan, via a 3 pol switch. Twin and earth also from junction box to feed light. Can also put in an override switch for Pir if you wanted
All the integral PIR/Lamp do not have this over ride facility which is ridiculous. its the same with the bathroom extraction fans which do not have time delay off function. All these products should have a warning label " Expensive Rubbish ".
And what happens to the neutral? And earth?
Boehm Island
Someone watches JW ..
Those pens look absolutely miserable to use xD
I've done this before... good to see this, i've used four pir to guard a store and to trigger a dc alarm