Would you be willing to enable captioning in your videos? It would be a game-changer for your deaf and hard of hearing viewers. After all, everyone deserves to enjoy and learn from your fantastic tutorials! Thanks!
@peggymiller3045 oh absolutely! The captions are set to automatically be enabled. Sometimes it takes a little while for them to generate when a video first comes out but I just checked this one, clicked on the closed captions button at the bottom of the video and the captions appear to be working. You may just have to refresh the video and they should be there. Please let me know if they still aren’t showing up and thank you for the question!
They will sell well now that they are made in the USA,even the Wago haters will buy them,I don't know why American electricians rubbish Wagos, when other countries have nothing but praise for them,now then,the Ideal levers will have the opposite,supposed fault,they will open when you push them into your overcrowded electrical boxes,at the end of the day the Ideal LEEVERS,not levers are a copy of the Wagos.,in my opinion they are inferior.
German Electrician here. Wago nuts are pretty much industry standard here. We use the 221 lever nuts mostly only when connecting flexible and solid wiring together, like on lamps or similar. For normal installation with exclusively solid wiring, we use 2273 models, which are push-in nuts
You don't use 224? It's perfect for lamps, cheaper and also can connect solid to stranded. (It can't connect stranded to stranded, but light circuits in homes are always solid, so it's a non-issue).
@@marekogarek6329 To me the 224s are just impractical. they're bulkier with max. 2 terminals for solid, and 1 terminal for stranded wire, compared to 221s, which have 3-5 terminals for any wire at a nice small and flat size. You also would have to order, store, and carry with you this one extra product just for this one specific usecase. This makes no sense, if you are already having a product with you that covers multiple usecases (lamps, terminal boxes, junction boxes, etc.). IMHO You're not really saving anything from them being a few bucks cheaper (minus ca. 30%/100 pcs in wholesale) with all the hassle. And from the business standpoint, such "savings" would be neglible. Small Items like wire nuts, screws, wall plugs, etc. are calculated so they're included within the service. In a quotation for the installation for a home you would save the customer a few bucks, compared to several thousands for the whole installation.
@@hexise 2273s are very compact and take less space in tightly packed in-wall junction boxes and outlets. 221s are good for connecting stranded wires to solid ones, like on ceiling outlets where you connect the flexible cables of a lamp to the wiring of the house
@@srobeck77It's not "superior" in the slightest. It absolutely is related to patents but it's simply a different design with different characteristics. They're bigger and there still is a potential problem facing outward if pushed in that direction. In fact it's more likely to happen and as nice as the friction 'lock' improvement is, it was especially needed because of this orientation. I'm baffled that he didn't even consider this but it's not a 'problem' either. I've never had a wago flip up and is easy to avoid but now there's another option for all these people. Just like how some prefer a certain wire nut over others. In a box that cramped I wouldn't use an even wider connector but that's just me. You even could tape or a tie a wago at the same width but at a point this seems necessary I'd question why you're using flip connectors to begin with.
@JJFX- just because it’s not happened to you doesn’t mean it doesn’t happen. They are not difficult to open from pushing them into the box. They really aren’t larger than the WAGOs and the more I use them the more I’m starting to like them better than the WAGOs. Aside from the levers locking down I also like how easy the ideals are to push the wire into. You can with the WAGOs but wago doesn’t mention it in their instructions and they are much harder to do it with.
Good presentation. I think you should have commented on the clear plastic wago has where you can clearly see the inserted wire to check your connection where the ideal is opaque and harder to see in a dim light. Also wago makes a series that can accept 10 guage wire which is needed in some applications, especially commercial.
I did film it but ultimately cut it from the video as it was already a lengthy video. I do however mention that Wago has the 221-600 series that can handle up to 10 gauge wire in the video and have links for them in the description of the video. I appreciate the feedback!
He commented on the clarity. Besides, it's obvious, is it not? No offense intended. Nobody sees everything. That's why they have rewind. It's 3 times through to get a good handle on whats being said, unless your expert. And experts are generally teaching and demonstrating, not watching. Imo.
The Ideal has a clear window at the end where the Strangely enough, I've seen videos showing an earlier version of Ideal's lever connectors and the entire body was reasonably transparent. They claim that the surface is textured to reduce slipping, but I'm skeptical. I wouldn't call it opaque. WAGO still has an older version that is opaque. Ideal's level connector is translucent.
6:35 Wago 221s also have two test ports - there's a cutout under one of the levers (left for the 2-port connector, middle for the bigger ones) and that's the test port from wire side.
He said or showed that, and for me, that's a big plus. Rule of my thumb, unless im expert, I go thru anything new, I go thru it 3 times. On the third go thru, the info begins to be yours. Again, my opinion, but that is how the teach students to study, especially when they don't like the subject, but have to learn it.
@@nothankyou5524 He didn't show the second test port on Wagos and he specifically mentions that Ideals have two test ports instead of one, so he was unaware of the second port on Wagos
I used an IDEAL in-Sure x25 Push to connect connector on a junction box a couple years ago. Everyone told me its going to catch on fire, wiring will come lose, it will short out, etc... but none of that happened. Its working just fine. No issues whatsoever.
I’m just a DIYer, and just switched to Wagos over wire nuts a couple of years back and love them. It sure looks like the Ideals have some advantages though. I especially like the idea of the levers locking down *and* facing in the opposite direction you’re pushing from. I have a good assortment of Wagos, but will buy Ideals going forward. Thanks for the detailed review!
Some have criticized the Ideal lever connectors for being thicker. However, the do seem more "substantial" where putting one down on a hard surface, the Ideal seems like it the shell is more durable than the WAGO.
These are a MUST if you're doing a lot of luminaire installs. Particularly when the fixture is stranded wire. I found too many poorly made stranded-solid wire nut connections done by the previous homeowner. These make it nearly impossible to screw up.
I recently bought a multi pack of the Wago connectors for use with a new ceiling fan installation. I have to say this was the easiest electrical connection I have ever done. I didn't experience the potential lifting of the hinge portion of the connector. However, I will keep an eye on that with future use.
Surprisingly wago levers won't open by themselves in Europe. Seems to be an USA problem. We haven't been using wirenuts since nineties and as an full-time electrician since 1999 I haven't seen any problems with lever wagos, new (like in the video) or the older bigger gray ones. Some of the plain spring style connectors in the past were so tight that sometimes the wire slipped in your fingers and you felt like it got in. Those have had some problems, but with the current style from wago, which also has see through casing, that problem is pretty much solved. While doing renovations for a few years, I found hundreds of loose wires "in" wirenuts. Those were installed by the skilled electricians of the time. In Finland, I haven't seen the 15 different sizes of wirenuts though, what I see in the videos from USA. That might have helped with the problem, but how many options did the US electricians have in the 1950s? I do know that twisting the wires together makes a very good connection. It just seems that installing wirenuts is way more work compared to any wago connector for gaining couple milliohms lower contact resistance. And for the added benefit, wago 221 melts like a fuse at 100 amps in under a minute. I'll count that as a safety feature :D (I only tried that once, in a purpose build test setup, should probably check again some time)
@@HowToHomeDIY maybe you are doing it incorrectly up there. actually i am amazed you are using them up there. they must be that much better than what you used before their appearance. considering they are german. europaen!
Wago's 221 line has one key different from all the other lever nuts I have come across on the market. They mark only one lever no matter how many ports. So use it to your advantage, and make that marked port you line side of the connection. That will simplify future testing or repairs. No more guessing what wire is feeding the splice.
I have seen the lever nuts used, and needed to install a ceiling fan. I went to the local big box store and the Ideal brand were available (I was looking for Wagu brand). I purchased the Ideal brand and they worked flawlessly. New fan of lever nuts. I think the differences are minimal, but the advantages are big when you compare to wire nuts.
The one thing I've heard discussed about the WAGO 221 is how compact it is. There might be a few knockoffs that are equivalent in size, but the Ideal ones are clearly bigger, although I'd argue they seem to be more durable. If there's enough space for them, I don't think it's that big a deal.
Fair points! The Wagos are very popular here in Europe and almost nobody uses twist nuts - thankfully. But that's not to say that they cannot be improved.
@@jamescole3152 they still are worse. Prone to vibration and installation failure, much more of a pain to install in general. Also the price differences aren't even that much. Can get 2 terminal ones for just 28-30 cents each (though it seems a lot other places would sell em for round 38-40 cents per 100). And the Wing Nuts are like 18 cents each. The price difference ain't enough to warrant sticking to wing nuts. And if we're going by cheap, ViD (German retailer) and Degson (Chinese) both make UL, VDE and EAC certified connectors which are significantly cheaper. Cheap enough to really compete with the Wing Nuts
My understanding is that single-insertion push-in connectors are the most common connection in Europe. WAGO makes a variety of them. And it's possible to use wire nuts in Europe. There's this common misconception that they're illegal. I've heard they're available, not terribly common, and rarely used because most electricians have heard they're dangerous.
Thanks to you, I am going to use these nuts as opposed to old yellow screw nuts. Quite simply, there is no twisting involved. Threaded/solid simply strip the shield and insert. Sept 2023, the Ideal has come down on Amazon, 300 pieces. Oddly enough they changed the color. Thank you Adam, you made my life a whole lot easier.
@@Yowomboo I won't be taking anyone seriously who is going to frown or fuss over something that's been in use in countries with far stricter and better electrical codes than US in all fairness.
Have purchased and used many Wago nuts - and love them, but I have experienced the unintended lever engagement more than once. Kudos to Ideal for improving on the design.
I was using a few hundred wagos a month ago on some city buses. I didn't like the idea, but that is what they had on the spec sheet. They were very handy, the only problem I found was when using them in a hurry, there is a little ledge or something inside the port that can feel like the wire has hit a stop, but it is just in the opening. I had I think 3 come out while I was finishing the rest of the installs. Totally user error, but if that ledge wasn't there, I wouldn't have made the error. I put small zip ties on some of them to keep them from opening up. Time will tell if they take the vibrations from going down the road.
I've seen some videos of the Ideal that shows a mostly clear body. Not sure if maybe it was for sale in a different market or just an earlier version. The "lock" really doesn't do much. The individual fit of the parts can mean that some don't really have it, and it doesn't do much to prevent the lever from being budged..
Yeah, don’t blame you at all. I will also continue to use them. I will use the Ideals too but can get the Wagos for quite a bit less buying them in larger quantities.
I only ever use the 221 because the push ins are harder to disconnect if need be. But I see why one would use them in production of machinery for example where you just want a quick permanent connection.
Wago push-ins are pita to disconnect (they mangle solid wire quite unsightly). However, 2273 could be literally a lifesaver because they are small and thin - you can jam two of these in place of one 221; the venerable 222 is even worser. Their current rating is not what I care for, though. B-curve breakers only.
Have used the Wago to install a light switch. As a safety to prevent the lever from opening, I wrapped electrical tape around the body of the connector, before pushing the wires back into the receptacle box.
Ideal also has 4 port connectors, whereas Wago doesn’t! But they are both pretty cool to use. I’ve always used tape with the Wago LN, saves me the hassle. Great video!
I've had Wago clips open up on me and actually snapped the plastic lever on one of them after one opened. In all fairness, it was a tight 4" box with two duplex outlets and using the Wago to feed pigtails but still was something that gave pause and made me think I should wrap it in electrical tape.
I've been using the wago 221s on some new installs and repairs. I'm sold. They seem to take up less space in the box and it seems easier to "pack" the box when there is a lot of wires. Makes pigtailing easier. If you have to redo a box, it's much easier. I haven't discarded using wire nuts, but I've come to prefer using these when I can.
it would be interesting to see the loss difference between the two. You could either use a ductor tester or run a known current through the connector and measure the volt drop across it. It would tell you which makes a better connection and is least likely to create a hot join.
There's been some tests done for TH-cam. They were comparisons of different connector types, including wire nuts. The strange thing are the tests that overload them. Good quality lever connectors will start melting when they're driven well beyond their specs, but the metal springs still work and the connection is maintained.
Thanks for the info. I've been frustrated with the Wagos for the reason you brought up. I've only done a couple of them and thought I would start using electrical tape to hold the tabs down. I think I'll try the Ideal Lever Nuts.
On tipp I saw in a video was to bend the cables in a way that the levers face you before pushing them into the box. Works flawless for me. But I tend to clean up messy boxes anyway so that has never been an issue
I just used the wago's for the first time. I was looking for a ground fault error and was taking the connections apart and isolating parts of the circuit. The wire nuts were a pain to take off and put back on without restripping the wires. One thing i noticed was that if you don't use a newly stripped wire the Wago will not hold tightly and I could easily pull the wire out of the connector. I tried to straighten the end of the wire with pliers to mimic a clean wire but if I wiggled the wire I could pull it out. I ended up restripping the wire and tapping the wire to the Wago, Thanks for the video.
Ive been taking wago inline connectors and putting items like resistors between two of them with some shrink wrap on the outside. Wago is simply the best.
I’m sold. I really like the wago except for how easily the levers can be manipulated, so I’ve used tape as a precaution: a process that that is time consuming and in convenient. Seems the ideal ones have solved this issue, thus really making them the best choice. And that locking down lever tab- brilliant. Wago now needs to catch up.
It doesn't really lock down. It sort of locks in, but not really all that well. I can imagine bumping it against something in a box can easily move the lever. However, not being in the fully closed position doesn't matter as long as it's not open. There's a certain point where it meets with a good deal of resistance (starting to compress the spring), and the wire is still locked in place until the lever is almost fully open where it presses down on the spring. The other thing is that with solid wires, the bus bar has a "finger" for each wire, and the spring forces the wire against that finger. It's hard to describe exactly. However, I'm sure that the spring against the bus bar right at the point of the spring is enough to make a solid connection. The WAGO 221 has the bus bar right in the center and there's no conductor for a good 3 mm to the end of the hole.
When these lever type connectors came out , Whether the Wago or the Ideal , They should have also designed a cap that slides on to keep the levers from coming up , But in the meantime I'll wrap them with a little bit of electrical tape or use a piece of heat shrink tubing to keep the levers in place
fun to read all (to the end) comments, people do need to remember this is made for information, what you want to do with it is up to you. I app react gaining knowledge about any product excpecially new ideas and products new to usa. perhaps a lot of the negative stuff is like the people that bad mouth shark bite plumbing... been used for long time in Europe also, just like wagos. cast iron waste pipe , you think we should change? always nice to have an extra tool in your toolbox, like when multi-cutting tools came out, who knew they work. this is of course (imo) a great video, thanks for doing it. Like the straight forward approach.
The lever thing what makes me a little skeptical. Yes you can tape them but that defeats the purpose of using them to work quickly. That the Ideal ones snap shut a bit is a step in the right direction though.
I'm an audio/video tech and have gotten some wagos with some speakers and can say that at least with those the spring lever mechanism is strong enough that I don't seen much chance of accidentally opening one up unless you're really cramming stuff into a box
I use both. With the Ideal when you close them you feel some resistance. With the Wago you feel nothing. Also, it seems with the Ideal you have to push in just a bit harder....resistance again. If you don't the wire will pull out. At first, I thought they were a cheaper imitation, but I think it's an install issue. I tape around both styles when I'm done.
@@ianmcnally8501 My thoughts on that are 'accessibility'. Use a superior tape like Scotch Super 33+ (look at its specs). Pull it tight as you wrap around once, then release and finish with a wrap....that's forever, but lets you in there again easily.
I've used both, the issue with the Ideal is the levers don't always stay shut as you're pushing it into the box. Leading to wired coming out. If you're not careful it can cause a dangerous situation.
I no longer use WAGO lever nuts unless I wrap them with electrical tape. Hence, I don't see the point in using the wagos in the first place. I prefer the Ideal push connectors when using solid wires, or good old fashioned wire nuts when using stranded wire. Installed correctly, wire nuts never fail.
I would like to give my own opinion on the video shown. First of all, thank you for your work and for showing the differences between the two connectors. I would like to mention that I have been a trained electrician in Germany since 1993 and we are of course very familiar with Wago connectors. Unfortunately I have to contradict you that the Wago connectors would open when inserted into the terminal box. This only happens, if at all, if work is not done correctly. But this would also happen with all other types of connectors. I showed your video to other colleagues in my industry, but unfortunately they cannot share your opinion. Basically, the connector from Ideal is OK, but not necessarily better, please don't misunderstand 😀 Ich möchte gerne eine eigene Meinung zu dem gezeigten Video abgeben. Zuerst danke für deine Arbeit und für die gezeigten Unterschiede der beiden Verbindern. Ich möchte gerne erwähnen dass ich in Deutschland seit 1993 gelernter Elektriker bin und wir natürlich mit den Verbindern der Firma Wago sehr vertraut sind. Leider muß ich dir widersprechen dass sich die verbinder der Firma Wago, beim einsetzten in der Klemmdose öffnen würden. Dies geschieht wenn überhaupt nur, wenn nicht korrekt gearbeitet werden würde. Dies würde dann aber auch bei allen anderen Arten von Verbindern geschehen. Ich hab dein Video anderen Kollegen meine Branche gezeigt, diese können deine Meinung leider nicht teilen. Grundsätzlich ist der Verbinder der Firma Ideal auch OK, aber nicht zwingend besser, bitte nicht falsch verstehen 😀
I wonder if the reason it is easier to push solid wires into a closed Ideal connector is that the connector will actually exert less clamping force upon the inserted wire. Less clamping force would tend to fail sooner due to possible resistance build up over time or during an excessive current load event. It would be good to see a test done comparing the clamping force applied to the wire by each brand of connector. Wago has some good videos showing how their connectors hold up under extreme current loads. I am not aware of similar videos for the Ideal connectors. NOTE: I always wrap lever nuts with one full wrap of electrical tape so that the levers will not open. I know this is unnecessary, but I also wrap all wire nuts with electrical tape too. My current product of choice is the Wago. Purchasing in bulk does save money.
I have seen some others compare the clamping force between the two and they actually found the Ideal has a little stronger clamping force than the Wagos.
It's not really clamping force per se that keeps it from escaping, although I'm sure the force does make for a strong electrical connection against the bus bar. The end of the spring that clamps down on the wire serves as a barb. If you remove a wire that was in one, you'll see a ridge on the wire where it slightly cuts into the copper. And the videos are interesting. It's frankly a lot easier to remove a wire from a lever connector than it is from a wire nut. However, the kind of force needed to pull out a wire from a lever connector is enough to damage the connector and is unrealistic.
I've had Ideal product explode on me in the past due to someone somewhere substituting garbage pot metal for the internal conductor material in their push-in connectors. Only seems to happen with the orange 3-port connectors, but nut the yellow 4-port ones.
I love lever nuts, came in handy when i replaced a fan switch with an automatic humidity one. couldnt get it to work thought i had wires switched, didnt, eventually i got my multimeter out and i only had 60v at the feed wire to ground on the switch (as no neutral the switch had to use ground per instruction), then i tested the light switch next to it and it had proper voltage, i then tested the fan line feed to the light switches ground and got 120v, so looks like the fan had a bad ground. now advantage of a lever nut, i just had to unclip the ground from the fan and swap it with the ground from the switch as it was not needed for the light switch. if i had to use standard twist on nuts, my hands would be really sore from twisting and untwisting wires to swap them
Ideal has a newer version of the In-Sure lever connector now. It's the L32/L33/L35 for their 2/3/5 port versions. They're bigger and are rated for wire from 22-10 AWG while their L22/L23/L25 were rated for 24-12 AWG. They're also rated for more current at 30A (UL rating) compared to 20A for the smaller ones. They're also clear compared to textured and translucent. Also the levers are on the same side as the port. They are very different looking. I would compare this to WAGO, where their larger versions are the same design. WAGO also has different series for the 221 including their "green" series made with recycled materials and the "gray" series for hazardous locations.
I like the locking lever on the Ideal. I just used Wagos for the first time and had the levers lift it was a tight box with 12ga wire, I had to reseat them and then when I used them again of course I had to double and triple check to make sure they were closed. I’m going to buy Ideal ones next time. Thanks for your video
I don't think that's a big deal either way. The Ideal ones don't exactly lock. It's a really weak "click" at the bottom, but they can still pop up. If the lever is slightly open on either, the spring is still uncompressed until it meets with some resistance. The wire is still fully locked in until it's fully open.
I'm an electrician from germany and installed many of those wago connectors, old 222 and the newer 221. And never in my life I had a lever open on its own nor I've seen open levers in the wild inside older junction boxes. Not even sure how you would manage to open the lever while pushing the connector in the box. I can only imagine that scenario, when pulling the connnector out and a wire get hooked underneath the lever but even then you most certainly can feel it and the force is not even high enough to open it. My best guess is: either the junctin box is too small or the Installation inside the junction box is too messy.
When pushing back wires into a box, if you are a real electrician, you will never have an issue as you proposed with the wagos. simply learn how to correctly push back wires into a box neatly. You can go in a circular order when wiring them together and push them to the bottom of the box, then fold them back up once and boom, you won't have any trouble with the wagos and your fellow electricians will thank you if they ever have to check that box
Ideal missed an opportunity by not having a four wire model which Wago doesn’t have and probably never will because they have all their factory tooling established for the 2, 3, 5 wire models. Ideal could have included a 4 wire when they initially set up production.
In commercial work where 99% of the motors are 480 volts ( or 575 volts in Canada ) only wire nuts are approved so rather then have some of both types only bench stock wire nuts. Ideal always made great products.
I use WAGO 221 lever nuts on small load locations such as LED lighting, and use regular wire nuts on all other potential high loads like receptacles. I understand that WAGO lever nuts have. ratings well in excess of residential requirements however i am still hesitant to use them when i can anticipate maximum loads over time. The new IDEAL lever nuts seem to be as good if not better than the WAGO 221 lever nut, i especially like the more robust reverse toggle arm which is less prone to pivoting. The WAGO has been around for a long time and everyone seems to carry them so i tend to use that product for lighter load requirements, have no concerns with the Ideal lever so both are acceptable. The WAGO is exceptionally good for viewing the wire insertion and that is a factor for us ageing people, and you can always use a wrap of electrical tape to add additional lever tab security if you are worried about the lever being toggled, however if you are vigilent during install that really shouldn’t be a factor. Cheers
On those Wago specs, there are different current and voltage ratings for the US and European markets. You can see them on the different sides; 32A and 450V for Europe, 20A and 300V for North America. There is no difference in actual capabilities, but of other differences in the wiring and what test authorities want in the two markets. For example, in North America, the largest wire gauge that connector will take is 12 AWG, which is typically used on 20A circuits. However, in Europe wire is measured by cross-sectional area, and those connectors can take 4mm^2 cables, which has about 21% bigger cross-sectional area and are often used on 32A circuits (Europe appears to allow more amperage for a given cross-sectional area, perhaps because voltage drop is not such an issue with 230V standard, whilst in North America standard outlets are 120V - the voltage drop, as a percentage, will just be higher at 120V than 230V for the same current over the same cable type and length). The difference in voltage rating may be because in a typical North American home, the highest voltage difference that will be seen will be 240V between phases, whilst in Europe some countries, like Germany and the Netherlands, commonly have 3 phase power in domestic properties).
wire harness tape is an option as well as electrical tape and has the advantage in the fact that it doesn't stretch like electrical tape does so its even more secure.
The Ideal having latches to hold down the levers is a great idea! But I've never had a problem with the Wago levers flopping, personally. I am just mindful of them when pushing them back into the box.
It doesn't really latch closed. There's a tiny audible click when it's closed all the way, but there's not much resistance to the lever opening until it starts trying to compress on the spring.
Ideal dropped the ball by only offering packs of 10. Do they expect electricians, which might install 50+ of these a day, to buy piles of 10 packs and mess up with opening a bag every 10 lever nut installed?
Probably not. They probably have the DIYer in mind right now. I have no doubt larger quantities will come out later. I have seen on Home Depot’s site where they sell larger quantities of the three port Ideal lever nuts but those are the only ones they have online currently.
Home depot has 50 packs of these on the shelf at my local store. $35 or so. Probably can order in bulk through a supply house, like a real electrician would
They have cardboard boxes of 150 and jars of 500. I bought the jar of 500 of the L22 directly from Amazon for $26, although they seem to have discontinued that particular package. That price was just crazy good at less than 6 cents each. I was bored and counted them, where I think I had 508. I see their latest sell sheet, and now they have the L32/L33/L35 which are (US) rated for up to 30A and for 22-10 AWG wire.
Home Depot near me stocks the 50/bag of the 3 port Ideal lever nut and they ask $35. Or I can order from the Home Depot site, a 50/bag of the Wago 221s for $19.
@@phillipbanes5484 LOL, "usually" being the key word. You obviously don't shop Home Depot and their web site very much. FYI, the 2 port Ideal lever nut 10 pack is $7.48 and the 2 port Wago is $5.98 both "free ship to store." I can also order that Wago in 50 ($17.98) or 100 ($23.49) pack for even cheaper per unit but on Home Depot the Ideal is only in the 10 pack. So you see, the comparison was a reasonable illustration of what choices I have available and addressed both the aspect mentioned in the video of not in stock as well as the price difference.
I didn't ignore it and my comparison was perfectly valid as shown by my second comparison. Your "usually" clause does not apply to this case and to home depot the clause seldom applies, which is not "usually." You would know this if you cross shopped home depot and their web site. Your first post made your ignorance obvious, and you've now confirmed it.@@phillipbanes5484
P.S. if I had "completely ignored it" as you claimed, then I would not have acknowledge it. Ponder on that compared to what you write.@@phillipbanes5484
No real electrician would even think of taping on a wire nut. That messy stuff is for a gouge in the wire. The tape makes a gooey mess. Electricians use it for taping together wires for pulling them through conduit. Then removing it.
that milk white plastic is a disadvantage from an inspection perspective. as for the levers...if you have a concern w/ one, you should've the same concern for the other...run a bit of tape around it if you think its an issue! The fact that WAGO has an "in-line" version is a HUGE advantage for me!
I would be interested to see if the manufacturers have considered the addition of a sleeve to lock the levers down. These could be great with a simple improvement.
Someone should hook both of them up to the same wires and have a "tractor pull ", to see which one holds onto the wire better. You put out very well thought out videos. Thanks.
There's a vid of a guy testing samples at the Upper Midwest Electrical Expo 2023. Did the pull test with both the Ideal In-Sure L2 and WAGO 221. He got it out with a good pull on the Ideal, but obviously way more force than it's ever going to get in practice unless someone is intentionally doing it. A wire nut simply wouldn't pull apart. With WAGO he got the 221 to come loose but couldn't get a connection with a WAGO push-in connectors to come loose. And he was pulling really hard. The shell started to deform with the clear plastic becoming opaque white. It's really just a theoretical test. No way will a real connection ever see that. Having used both the Ideal In-Sure L2 and WAGO 221, I can't see it coming loose in normal conditions unless one forgets to close or it's broken/defective.
Use Wago’s only and very happy. A lot of new lights come with Wago push only in the box, I like them also but prefer 221. Also like the Wago junction boxes for under floor and attic space, neat and lockable with Zip tie
As a cable monkey from Germany i have to point out that the Wago lever nuts are way too expensive for for standard installations. We usually use them when connecting stranded wire or to make temporary connections. They also take up way too much space in junction boxes compared to Wago's regular push in nuts. One last bit. Guys please stop using multi meters on installations. They are high impedance and thus unsuitable for the job. They pick up any stray voltage from induction or capacitive coupling and throw you off. Also there is the danger of having the the dial in the wrong position, giving you false negatives. Voltage testers are specifically designed to avoid these situations. Plus most of them have a push button for low impedance measurement. If used correctly you can use that to test RCDs or deliberately use them to turn off circuits on an RCD without having to run to the panel each time.
My pet peeve with the European round boxes is that they DO NOT HAVE ENOUGH ROOM to add a little bit of length of wire within the box in case the wire for some reason has to be cut shorter due to damage from a previous mis installation. Another irritant is that when installing boxes for drywall use on interior dividing walls is that there is no way to pre mount these boxes to the steel studs so we can run our Smurf ( American nickname for the flexible blue conduit ) into the boxes and then pull lines into them. Have you ever tried installing drywall boxes with a conduit feed into them? The boxes here in Greece suck. They utilize what we in America call remodel boxes that one fits into the drywall after the fact and they utilize flip over supports in the back. BTW, my home here in the Med is wired for both 120 vac 60Hz as well as 220 vac 50Hz. My 120 v system is utilized by my tools and appliances I brought with us from the states. No issues to this date all outlets for 120v system wired for 20 amp service being a bit larger than our 12 gauge wire used in the states is what I specified for use here. Breakers were purchased in the states for use with the system, they are DIN rail mount ( made by Schneider Electric ) so they can be used in boxes made by Hager. Power is supplied from solar for the time being. All boxes were brought in from the states and are UL approved with the appropriate fire ratings.
@@Subgunman I am used to these boxes, worked with them almost my entire life. When handled correctly, they are a breeze to install. I personally like the round boxes for making it easy to sink them into the wall in any desired rotation. Note that here in Germany, we never have mantled reserves inside the junction boxes, since 90% of the time the cables are plastered over. We just don't have that much drywall or wood construction here.
1. The inline Wago has a different AWG range. It's not for wire thinner than 20 AWG. 2. I used three Wagos in an electric guitar to simplify the connections of the two pickups' wires to the controls. It eliminates the need to solder close to the guitar body wood. It also allows for quick trial&error experiments with filter capacitors with no need for soldering, by connecting the capacitor's two leads to the common ground Wago and a pickup signal Wago. The slightly smaller size of the Wagos might make them a better choice than the Ideals, because they need to fit the small space under the control pots.
@@kenbrown2808 : I assume you mean you use lever nuts instead of soldering, rather than lever nuts instead of wire nuts or other kinds of quick connectors. How frequently do your components fail? The two examples I cited -- "installing a controls wiring harness into an electric guitar" and "experimenting with filter capacitors in an electric guitar" -- don't involve literal failure of components, but are similar to failure in the sense that the components might turn out to be undesirable.
@@kenbrown2808 : The reason for my incorrect assumption is that the amount of extra time to undo/redo wire nuts, compared to lever nuts, doesn't strike me as a significant fraction of the replacement job's total time when "frequently" is actually a relatively long time... and failure rates for electrical/electronic components tend to be a relatively long time. What kinds of components tend to fail for you more frequently than yearly?
@@brothermine2292 it's the convenience of just lifting the lever to take out the failed component that makes the difference, and it's chemical metering valves.
Yup, me too. That’s why I’ll continue to use both. I have so many Wagos still too and I buy them in the higher quantities so as of right now they can be quite a bit cheaper.
You can get a mounting backing plate that clicks together and the in line connectors clip into. I bought some as was going to use the inline but then changed my mind and used a din rail mounted topjobs.
Why not just use a Euro style terminal strip? Still has setscrews but has holes to insert the wires before tightening, and full insulation. They can also be cut to length or used as singles. They come in ratings up to 50 amps, maybe higher. Another option is DIN rail mount terminal blocks. They come in a setscrew style or Wago makes them with push buttons as well. Cut a piece of din rail to length, mount it, and then put as many terminal blocks as fit on it. Some can split into multiple wires as well, and some are rated for 250A+. But for your application a Euro terminal strip would be perfect. And more secure than any lever connector. I have some installed in control panels feeding 5HP+ motors that have been there for years and they don't heat up, they don't loosen up, and they're nearly as insulated as the Wagos are. Smaller as well for a given amperage.
You've done some excellent tests with the Wagos subjecting them to weight/pull with your fancy kettlebell weight and running too many amps through them and measuring heat. In that vein, I would really love to see a head-to-head test that includes the Ideals. Yes, the Wagos drop some holding force when the lever pulls open a bit, but how does that reduced holding force compare to the Ideal ones, both when you push the Ideals all the way down to the lock detent and also when someone might forget that extra step? How much heat do the Ideals generate when you run your test 24A through them as compared to the tests you already did on the Wagos? Side note: Another channel, "Everyday Home Repairs", has done an Ideal vs. Wago heat test and the Wagos won that (not by a huge margin, and both were WELL below the design spec of the connectors even being overloaded).
Good video. I didn’t read all the comments but how does the thin metal connector inside compare on both? Are they both thin where they could still cause the same amount of resistance and possibly cause more heat ?
@@HowToHomeDIY my apologies, to correct myself: It’s fascinating to observe that your detailed and informative video about WAGOs has significantly fewer views compared to your other video that refers to WAGOs as “trash” in its thumbnail. It’s just an observation but I’m glad ya see the sparkle in my thoughts pal 💎
No one is giving anyone a run in my book, unless I see interiour parts. I am yet to see a video of Ideal connector disassembled. That's where comparison with stripped 221 should be made. The 221 is not, excuse the pun, ideal design; but at least I know how the fixture grabs the wire. That is *single important thing*. (I have never, ever had 221 accidentally open on me. Neither I've heard of such occurance from fellow electricians; it is extraordinarily hard thing to pull off unlessyou pack your junction boxes blind)
I haven't watched the whole video yet, but i used to think Ideal was a budget brand, however after using Ideal, they are somewhat of a premium product.
I just used these ideal connections in a new ceiling fan installation, and for some smart switches I put in my room. My *only* caveat is that I feel that the pulling force to remove them is less than wagos, but that could have been my fault.
They actually have that already. When closing the levers, there is a slight snap when they are fully home. But this decent is much weaker than the Ideal’s locking mechanism.
Nice evaluation, My question is, can these In-Sure® Lever Wire Connectors 3-Port be used in wet locations? Exterior outlets. the website did not really address that. Thanks
Which lever connector do you think you will be using most? And why?
Would you be willing to enable captioning in your videos? It would be a game-changer for your deaf and hard of hearing viewers. After all, everyone deserves to enjoy and learn from your fantastic tutorials! Thanks!
@peggymiller3045 oh absolutely! The captions are set to automatically be enabled. Sometimes it takes a little while for them to generate when a video first comes out but I just checked this one, clicked on the closed captions button at the bottom of the video and the captions appear to be working. You may just have to refresh the video and they should be there. Please let me know if they still aren’t showing up and thank you for the question!
Once I run out of the wagons, I'll probably switch to the ideal brand.
They will sell well now that they are made in the USA,even the Wago haters will buy them,I don't know why American electricians rubbish Wagos, when other countries have nothing but praise for them,now then,the Ideal levers will have the opposite,supposed fault,they will open when you push them into your overcrowded electrical boxes,at the end of the day the Ideal LEEVERS,not levers are a copy of the Wagos.,in my opinion they are inferior.
I have a bunch of Wagos but I agree, the levers are too easily dislodged. Ideal's solution to that appears to be simple and effective.
German Electrician here. Wago nuts are pretty much industry standard here.
We use the 221 lever nuts mostly only when connecting flexible and solid wiring together, like on lamps or similar.
For normal installation with exclusively solid wiring, we use 2273 models, which are push-in nuts
You don't use 224? It's perfect for lamps, cheaper and also can connect solid to stranded. (It can't connect stranded to stranded, but light circuits in homes are always solid, so it's a non-issue).
@@marekogarek6329 To me the 224s are just impractical. they're bulkier with max. 2 terminals for solid, and 1 terminal for stranded wire, compared to 221s, which have 3-5 terminals for any wire at a nice small and flat size.
You also would have to order, store, and carry with you this one extra product just for this one specific usecase. This makes no sense, if you are already having a product with you that covers multiple usecases (lamps, terminal boxes, junction boxes, etc.).
IMHO You're not really saving anything from them being a few bucks cheaper (minus ca. 30%/100 pcs in wholesale) with all the hassle.
And from the business standpoint, such "savings" would be neglible. Small Items like wire nuts, screws, wall plugs, etc. are calculated so they're included within the service. In a quotation for the installation for a home you would save the customer a few bucks, compared to several thousands for the whole installation.
@@marekogarek6329 224 are outdated
Why do you use 2273 instead of 221 for solid wiring? Is there any special consideration? I thought 221 is great option for solid wiring, thanks.
@@hexise 2273s are very compact and take less space in tightly packed in-wall junction boxes and outlets.
221s are good for connecting stranded wires to solid ones, like on ceiling outlets where you connect the flexible cables of a lamp to the wiring of the house
The Ideal is designed that way as to not infringe on any patent the Wago may have. It makes total sense that they have subtle differences.
Its an interesting "theory" but probably just that. Either way, Ideal seems to be superior by facing away from the wire.
@@srobeck77It's not "superior" in the slightest. It absolutely is related to patents but it's simply a different design with different characteristics.
They're bigger and there still is a potential problem facing outward if pushed in that direction. In fact it's more likely to happen and as nice as the friction 'lock' improvement is, it was especially needed because of this orientation. I'm baffled that he didn't even consider this but it's not a 'problem' either.
I've never had a wago flip up and is easy to avoid but now there's another option for all these people. Just like how some prefer a certain wire nut over others. In a box that cramped I wouldn't use an even wider connector but that's just me. You even could tape or a tie a wago at the same width but at a point this seems necessary I'd question why you're using flip connectors to begin with.
@JJFX- just because it’s not happened to you doesn’t mean it doesn’t happen. They are not difficult to open from pushing them into the box. They really aren’t larger than the WAGOs and the more I use them the more I’m starting to like them better than the WAGOs. Aside from the levers locking down I also like how easy the ideals are to push the wire into. You can with the WAGOs but wago doesn’t mention it in their instructions and they are much harder to do it with.
@@JJFX- he literally showed the superiority, were you drunk during that portion, bruh?
@@srobeck77 If that's what you saw then no, I think you're well ahead of me
Good presentation. I think you should have commented on the clear plastic wago has where you can clearly see the inserted wire to check your connection where the ideal is opaque and harder to see in a dim light. Also wago makes a series that can accept 10 guage wire which is needed in some applications, especially commercial.
I did film it but ultimately cut it from the video as it was already a lengthy video. I do however mention that Wago has the 221-600 series that can handle up to 10 gauge wire in the video and have links for them in the description of the video. I appreciate the feedback!
and the most important thing:
he should have tested how hot they get. all the other points are somewhat moot
He commented on the clarity. Besides, it's obvious, is it not? No offense intended. Nobody sees everything. That's why they have rewind. It's 3 times through to get a good handle on whats being said, unless your expert. And experts are generally teaching and demonstrating, not watching. Imo.
The Ideal has a clear window at the end where the
Strangely enough, I've seen videos showing an earlier version of Ideal's lever connectors and the entire body was reasonably transparent. They claim that the surface is textured to reduce slipping, but I'm skeptical. I wouldn't call it opaque. WAGO still has an older version that is opaque. Ideal's level connector is translucent.
6:35 Wago 221s also have two test ports - there's a cutout under one of the levers (left for the 2-port connector, middle for the bigger ones) and that's the test port from wire side.
rule of thumb is look for the lever with printing. thats where the test point is
He said or showed that, and for me, that's a big plus. Rule of my thumb, unless im expert, I go thru anything new, I go thru it 3 times. On the third go thru, the info begins to be yours. Again, my opinion, but that is how the teach students to study, especially when they don't like the subject, but have to learn it.
@@nothankyou5524 He didn't show the second test port on Wagos and he specifically mentions that Ideals have two test ports instead of one, so he was unaware of the second port on Wagos
I used an IDEAL in-Sure x25 Push to connect connector on a junction box a couple years ago. Everyone told me its going to catch on fire, wiring will come lose, it will short out, etc... but none of that happened. Its working just fine. No issues whatsoever.
The Ideal PTC's are very good. That's what we've been using for months
I’m just a DIYer, and just switched to Wagos over wire nuts a couple of years back and love them. It sure looks like the Ideals have some advantages though. I especially like the idea of the levers locking down *and* facing in the opposite direction you’re pushing from. I have a good assortment of Wagos, but will buy Ideals going forward. Thanks for the detailed review!
Some have criticized the Ideal lever connectors for being thicker. However, the do seem more "substantial" where putting one down on a hard surface, the Ideal seems like it the shell is more durable than the WAGO.
These are a MUST if you're doing a lot of luminaire installs. Particularly when the fixture is stranded wire. I found too many poorly made stranded-solid wire nut connections done by the previous homeowner. These make it nearly impossible to screw up.
Which ones
@@lxp Both of them, opposed to wire nuts.
Just don't use wire nuts when you can use these lever type connectors.
@@Nebulak187 I must admit I really don't like the look of "wire nuts". They look dodgy
@@lxpthey aren’t and a properly twisted connection is superior as it doesn’t rely on the connector to pass the current.
I've seen stranded wire going into a push-in connector. I think the connectors were packaged with the luminaire, which is bizarre.
I recently bought a multi pack of the Wago connectors for use with a new ceiling fan installation. I have to say this was the easiest electrical connection I have ever done. I didn't experience the potential lifting of the hinge portion of the connector. However, I will keep an eye on that with future use.
Yeah, I will continue using Wagos but it is something to just be aware of when using them. They are still great for those applications.
Surprisingly wago levers won't open by themselves in Europe. Seems to be an USA problem.
We haven't been using wirenuts since nineties and as an full-time electrician since 1999 I haven't seen any problems with lever wagos, new (like in the video) or the older bigger gray ones.
Some of the plain spring style connectors in the past were so tight that sometimes the wire slipped in your fingers and you felt like it got in. Those have had some problems, but with the current style from wago, which also has see through casing, that problem is pretty much solved.
While doing renovations for a few years, I found hundreds of loose wires "in" wirenuts. Those were installed by the skilled electricians of the time. In Finland, I haven't seen the 15 different sizes of wirenuts though, what I see in the videos from USA. That might have helped with the problem, but how many options did the US electricians have in the 1950s?
I do know that twisting the wires together makes a very good connection. It just seems that installing wirenuts is way more work compared to any wago connector for gaining couple milliohms lower contact resistance.
And for the added benefit, wago 221 melts like a fuse at 100 amps in under a minute. I'll count that as a safety feature :D (I only tried that once, in a purpose build test setup, should probably check again some time)
@@villehietala9677
neither do they open in australia
@ursodermatt8809 no, they do. Unless you all are getting special wagos that we don’t get here.
@@HowToHomeDIY
maybe you are doing it incorrectly up there.
actually i am amazed you are using them up there. they must be that much better than what you used before their appearance. considering they are german. europaen!
Wago's 221 line has one key different from all the other lever nuts I have come across on the market. They mark only one lever no matter how many ports. So use it to your advantage, and make that marked port you line side of the connection. That will simplify future testing or repairs. No more guessing what wire is feeding the splice.
That is brilliant. I’ll have to remember to do that!
I like it.
A sharpie will do as well
@@DavidCarp-l7w When I count on Sharpie, the print magically disappears in a few months.
I have seen the lever nuts used, and needed to install a ceiling fan. I went to the local big box store and the Ideal brand were available (I was looking for Wagu brand).
I purchased the Ideal brand and they worked flawlessly. New fan of lever nuts. I think the differences are minimal, but the advantages are big when you compare to wire nuts.
The one thing I've heard discussed about the WAGO 221 is how compact it is. There might be a few knockoffs that are equivalent in size, but the Ideal ones are clearly bigger, although I'd argue they seem to be more durable. If there's enough space for them, I don't think it's that big a deal.
Fair points! The Wagos are very popular here in Europe and almost nobody uses twist nuts - thankfully. But that's not to say that they cannot be improved.
Look for the price per 100. 35€ for wago 325$ for us part.
You just have never learned to use the wing nuts. So how can you even make a comparison? Wing nuts are great for solid wire and cost less.
@@jamescole3152 they still are worse. Prone to vibration and installation failure, much more of a pain to install in general. Also the price differences aren't even that much. Can get 2 terminal ones for just 28-30 cents each (though it seems a lot other places would sell em for round 38-40 cents per 100). And the Wing Nuts are like 18 cents each. The price difference ain't enough to warrant sticking to wing nuts. And if we're going by cheap, ViD (German retailer) and Degson (Chinese) both make UL, VDE and EAC certified connectors which are significantly cheaper. Cheap enough to really compete with the Wing Nuts
My understanding is that single-insertion push-in connectors are the most common connection in Europe. WAGO makes a variety of them.
And it's possible to use wire nuts in Europe. There's this common misconception that they're illegal. I've heard they're available, not terribly common, and rarely used because most electricians have heard they're dangerous.
Thanks to you, I am going to use these nuts as opposed to old yellow screw nuts. Quite simply, there is no twisting involved. Threaded/solid simply strip the shield and insert. Sept 2023, the Ideal has come down on Amazon, 300 pieces. Oddly enough they changed the color. Thank you Adam, you made my life a whole lot easier.
Check with you local inspectors, they may frown on these even if they're allowed by code.
@@Yowomboo Does it matter if they "frown" on them if they are allowed by code?
@@Yowomboo I won't be taking anyone seriously who is going to frown or fuss over something that's been in use in countries with far stricter and better electrical codes than US in all fairness.
Thanks!
Have purchased and used many Wago nuts - and love them, but I have experienced the unintended lever engagement more than once. Kudos to Ideal for improving on the design.
skill issue
wago 221 does also have a test port on both sides (below the middle lever)
No matter what size of 2, 3, and 5-hole 221-series Lever-Nut, two test points where the marked handle is, front and back.
You get an A+ for this video. You covered it all.
I was using a few hundred wagos a month ago on some city buses. I didn't like the idea, but that is what they had on the spec sheet. They were very handy, the only problem I found was when using them in a hurry, there is a little ledge or something inside the port that can feel like the wire has hit a stop, but it is just in the opening. I had I think 3 come out while I was finishing the rest of the installs. Totally user error, but if that ledge wasn't there, I wouldn't have made the error. I put small zip ties on some of them to keep them from opening up. Time will tell if they take the vibrations from going down the road.
The flip levers on the Wagos should lock like the Ideal. Also Ideal wire direction is correct. Ideal should use a more transparent body.
Agree with all of that.
I've seen some videos of the Ideal that shows a mostly clear body. Not sure if maybe it was for sale in a different market or just an earlier version.
The "lock" really doesn't do much. The individual fit of the parts can mean that some don't really have it, and it doesn't do much to prevent the lever from being budged..
Thanks for the video. I will stick to my Wago lever nuts. Love these things for the homeowner installing lights, fans.
Yeah, don’t blame you at all. I will also continue to use them. I will use the Ideals too but can get the Wagos for quite a bit less buying them in larger quantities.
Expensive yet. I like the Ideal push connectors for standard residential connections. Wire nuts for heavier loads. Wagos for stranded, such as lights.
If you only have rigid cables, WAGO also has push-in connectors.
However, these do not hold flexible cables or very thin cables like the 221
I only ever use the 221 because the push ins are harder to disconnect if need be. But I see why one would use them in production of machinery for example where you just want a quick permanent connection.
Wago push-ins are pita to disconnect (they mangle solid wire quite unsightly). However, 2273 could be literally a lifesaver because they are small and thin - you can jam two of these in place of one 221; the venerable 222 is even worser.
Their current rating is not what I care for, though. B-curve breakers only.
Personally I'd use the Ideal, the built-in lock on the latch just makes for a safer more secure connection.
You sold me on the Ideal brand, thank you. Plus it's really available at HD if I ever need it in a hurry
Interesting. None of my HDs sell them around me, just Lowes. Guess it’s a regional thing.
Your an excellent communicator. Continuity. Thank you.
Have used the Wago to install a light switch. As a safety to prevent the lever from opening, I wrapped electrical tape around the body of the connector, before pushing the wires back into the receptacle box.
Ideal also has 4 port connectors, whereas Wago doesn’t! But they are both pretty cool to use. I’ve always used tape with the Wago LN, saves me the hassle. Great video!
I have watched a few of your videos and have learned something from all of them that I have seen. Thanks.
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you are finding value in the channel! Thanks a lot for the feedback!
I have experienced the same issue with the WAGO. My last job I used the Ideal and I think they are my go to connectors now.
I've had Wago clips open up on me and actually snapped the plastic lever on one of them after one opened. In all fairness, it was a tight 4" box with two duplex outlets and using the Wago to feed pigtails but still was something that gave pause and made me think I should wrap it in electrical tape.
I've been using the wago 221s on some new installs and repairs. I'm sold. They seem to take up less space in the box and it seems easier to "pack" the box when there is a lot of wires. Makes pigtailing easier. If you have to redo a box, it's much easier. I haven't discarded using wire nuts, but I've come to prefer using these when I can.
it would be interesting to see the loss difference between the two. You could either use a ductor tester or run a known current through the connector and measure the volt drop across it. It would tell you which makes a better connection and is least likely to create a hot join.
There's been some tests done for TH-cam. They were comparisons of different connector types, including wire nuts. The strange thing are the tests that overload them. Good quality lever connectors will start melting when they're driven well beyond their specs, but the metal springs still work and the connection is maintained.
Thanks for the info. I've been frustrated with the Wagos for the reason you brought up. I've only done a couple of them and thought I would start using electrical tape to hold the tabs down. I think I'll try the Ideal Lever Nuts.
On tipp I saw in a video was to bend the cables in a way that the levers face you before pushing them into the box. Works flawless for me. But I tend to clean up messy boxes anyway so that has never been an issue
I just did some wiring for a bathroom upgrade, the ideal connectors were quite a bit cheaper than the wagos at Lowes.
I just used the wago's for the first time. I was looking for a ground fault error and was taking the connections apart and isolating parts of the circuit. The wire nuts were a pain to take off and put back on without restripping the wires. One thing i noticed was that if you don't use a newly stripped wire the Wago will not hold tightly and I could easily pull the wire out of the connector. I tried to straighten the end of the wire with pliers to mimic a clean wire but if I wiggled the wire I could pull it out. I ended up restripping the wire and tapping the wire to the Wago, Thanks for the video.
Ive been taking wago inline connectors and putting items like resistors between two of them with some shrink wrap on the outside. Wago is simply the best.
Great comparison - I was not even aware of the Ideal product. Thank you. (and captions are working today🙂)
So now I will have two lifetime supplies of lever nuts,,,that snap down safety feature was a game changer for me,,,thanks,,enjoy your videos……
😂 yeah I hear ya. I think it’s really smart. I could really go either way. Both do a good job for certain installs.
I’m sold. I really like the wago except for how easily the levers can be manipulated, so I’ve used tape as a precaution: a process that that is time consuming and in convenient. Seems the ideal ones have solved this issue, thus really making them the best choice. And that locking down lever tab- brilliant. Wago now needs to catch up.
It doesn't really lock down. It sort of locks in, but not really all that well. I can imagine bumping it against something in a box can easily move the lever. However, not being in the fully closed position doesn't matter as long as it's not open. There's a certain point where it meets with a good deal of resistance (starting to compress the spring), and the wire is still locked in place until the lever is almost fully open where it presses down on the spring.
The other thing is that with solid wires, the bus bar has a "finger" for each wire, and the spring forces the wire against that finger. It's hard to describe exactly. However, I'm sure that the spring against the bus bar right at the point of the spring is enough to make a solid connection. The WAGO 221 has the bus bar right in the center and there's no conductor for a good 3 mm to the end of the hole.
When these lever type connectors came out , Whether the Wago or the Ideal , They should have also designed a cap that slides on to keep the levers from coming up , But in the meantime I'll wrap them with a little bit of electrical tape or use a piece of heat shrink tubing to keep the levers in place
Wago has a cap, it's intended to waterproof the connections/harsh environments though
@@michaelmm94 that's great because they can be used to keep the levers from coming up and you can use the Wago connectors with confidence
Maybe a built in lock similar to fuel injector connections would work.
Not necessary, work careful😊
I've used Wago for a long time and very pleased with them.
As a electrician for over forty years a properly installed wire nut is by far the safest .
In Finland the use of wire nuts has been ended over 40 years ago.
fun to read all (to the end) comments, people do need to remember this is made for information, what you want to do with it is up to you. I app react gaining knowledge about any product excpecially new ideas and products new to usa. perhaps a lot of the negative stuff is like the people that bad mouth shark bite plumbing... been used for long time in Europe also, just like wagos. cast iron waste pipe , you think we should change? always nice to have an extra tool in your toolbox, like when multi-cutting tools came out, who knew they work. this is of course (imo) a great video, thanks for doing it. Like the straight forward approach.
The lever thing what makes me a little skeptical. Yes you can tape them but that defeats the purpose of using them to work quickly. That the Ideal ones snap shut a bit is a step in the right direction though.
I'm an audio/video tech and have gotten some wagos with some speakers and can say that at least with those the spring lever mechanism is strong enough that I don't seen much chance of accidentally opening one up unless you're really cramming stuff into a box
I use both. With the Ideal when you close them you feel some resistance. With the Wago you feel nothing. Also, it seems with the Ideal you have to push in just a bit harder....resistance again. If you don't the wire will pull out. At first, I thought they were a cheaper imitation, but I think it's an install issue. I tape around both styles when I'm done.
I do the same tape it closed. I was thinking of changing to heat shrink over the connector to seal it forevever.
@@ianmcnally8501 My thoughts on that are 'accessibility'. Use a superior tape like Scotch Super 33+ (look at its specs). Pull it tight as you wrap around once, then release and finish with a wrap....that's forever, but lets you in there again easily.
@thereal1953 yes, I like that technique, I going to do that, see how it goes.
I've used both, the issue with the Ideal is the levers don't always stay shut as you're pushing it into the box. Leading to wired coming out. If you're not careful it can cause a dangerous situation.
It shouldn't matter a I've tried pulling it out. It requires a lot more force to get it where it no longer has the wire locked in.
I no longer use WAGO lever nuts unless I wrap them with electrical tape. Hence, I don't see the point in using the wagos in the first place. I prefer the Ideal push connectors when using solid wires, or good old fashioned wire nuts when using stranded wire. Installed correctly, wire nuts never fail.
I would like to give my own opinion on the video shown. First of all, thank you for your work and for showing the differences between the two connectors. I would like to mention that I have been a trained electrician in Germany since 1993 and we are of course very familiar with Wago connectors. Unfortunately I have to contradict you that the Wago connectors would open when inserted into the terminal box. This only happens, if at all, if work is not done correctly. But this would also happen with all other types of connectors. I showed your video to other colleagues in my industry, but unfortunately they cannot share your opinion. Basically, the connector from Ideal is OK, but not necessarily better, please don't misunderstand 😀
Ich möchte gerne eine eigene Meinung zu dem gezeigten Video abgeben. Zuerst danke für deine Arbeit und für die gezeigten Unterschiede der beiden Verbindern. Ich möchte gerne erwähnen dass ich in Deutschland seit 1993 gelernter Elektriker bin und wir natürlich mit den Verbindern der Firma Wago sehr vertraut sind. Leider muß ich dir widersprechen dass sich die verbinder der Firma Wago, beim einsetzten in der Klemmdose öffnen würden. Dies geschieht wenn überhaupt nur, wenn nicht korrekt gearbeitet werden würde. Dies würde dann aber auch bei allen anderen Arten von Verbindern geschehen. Ich hab dein Video anderen Kollegen meine Branche gezeigt, diese können deine Meinung leider nicht teilen. Grundsätzlich ist der Verbinder der Firma Ideal auch OK, aber nicht zwingend besser, bitte nicht falsch verstehen 😀
I'd like to see a pull test as well as a thermal test when the connector is under a heavy load.
I think he did this. Someone has.
I watched something like this (high power test). Wago does very well, the wire insulation burns before Wago does.
I wonder if the reason it is easier to push solid wires into a closed Ideal connector is that the connector will actually exert less clamping force upon the inserted wire.
Less clamping force would tend to fail sooner due to possible resistance build up over time or during an excessive current load event.
It would be good to see a test done comparing the clamping force applied to the wire by each brand of connector.
Wago has some good videos showing how their connectors hold up under extreme current loads.
I am not aware of similar videos for the Ideal connectors.
NOTE: I always wrap lever nuts with one full wrap of electrical tape so that the levers will not open. I know this is unnecessary, but I also wrap all wire nuts with electrical tape too.
My current product of choice is the Wago. Purchasing in bulk does save money.
I have seen some others compare the clamping force between the two and they actually found the Ideal has a little stronger clamping force than the Wagos.
@@HowToHomeDIY : Thanks and very Interesting. I will have to search for those videos (if they are posted for public viewing).
It's not really clamping force per se that keeps it from escaping, although I'm sure the force does make for a strong electrical connection against the bus bar. The end of the spring that clamps down on the wire serves as a barb. If you remove a wire that was in one, you'll see a ridge on the wire where it slightly cuts into the copper.
And the videos are interesting. It's frankly a lot easier to remove a wire from a lever connector than it is from a wire nut. However, the kind of force needed to pull out a wire from a lever connector is enough to damage the connector and is unrealistic.
@@ypw510 In one test Wagos pull out force was 16 kg.
LOL, I never new my connectors had a test port after using them for the last 10 years.... too funny (Thank you!)
I've had Ideal product explode on me in the past due to someone somewhere substituting garbage pot metal for the internal conductor material in their push-in connectors. Only seems to happen with the orange 3-port connectors, but nut the yellow 4-port ones.
I love lever nuts, came in handy when i replaced a fan switch with an automatic humidity one. couldnt get it to work thought i had wires switched, didnt, eventually i got my multimeter out and i only had 60v at the feed wire to ground on the switch (as no neutral the switch had to use ground per instruction), then i tested the light switch next to it and it had proper voltage, i then tested the fan line feed to the light switches ground and got 120v, so looks like the fan had a bad ground.
now advantage of a lever nut, i just had to unclip the ground from the fan and swap it with the ground from the switch as it was not needed for the light switch. if i had to use standard twist on nuts, my hands would be really sore from twisting and untwisting wires to swap them
Ideal has a newer version of the In-Sure lever connector now. It's the L32/L33/L35 for their 2/3/5 port versions. They're bigger and are rated for wire from 22-10 AWG while their L22/L23/L25 were rated for 24-12 AWG. They're also rated for more current at 30A (UL rating) compared to 20A for the smaller ones.
They're also clear compared to textured and translucent. Also the levers are on the same side as the port. They are very different looking. I would compare this to WAGO, where their larger versions are the same design. WAGO also has different series for the 221 including their "green" series made with recycled materials and the "gray" series for hazardous locations.
I like the locking lever on the Ideal. I just used Wagos for the first time and had the levers lift it was a tight box with 12ga wire, I had to reseat them and then when I used them again of course I had to double and triple check to make sure they were closed. I’m going to buy Ideal ones next time. Thanks for your video
I don't think that's a big deal either way. The Ideal ones don't exactly lock. It's a really weak "click" at the bottom, but they can still pop up.
If the lever is slightly open on either, the spring is still uncompressed until it meets with some resistance. The wire is still fully locked in until it's fully open.
I'm an electrician from germany and installed many of those wago connectors, old 222 and the newer 221.
And never in my life I had a lever open on its own nor I've seen open levers in the wild inside older junction boxes.
Not even sure how you would manage to open the lever while pushing the connector in the box. I can only imagine that scenario, when pulling the connnector out and a wire get hooked underneath the lever but even then you most certainly can feel it and the force is not even high enough to open it.
My best guess is: either the junctin box is too small or the Installation inside the junction box is too messy.
When pushing back wires into a box, if you are a real electrician, you will never have an issue as you proposed with the wagos. simply learn how to correctly push back wires into a box neatly. You can go in a circular order when wiring them together and push them to the bottom of the box, then fold them back up once and boom, you won't have any trouble with the wagos and your fellow electricians will thank you if they ever have to check that box
Ideal missed an opportunity by not having a four wire model which Wago doesn’t have and probably never will because they have all their factory tooling established for the 2, 3, 5 wire models. Ideal could have included a 4 wire when they initially set up production.
In commercial work where 99% of the motors are 480 volts ( or 575 volts in Canada ) only wire nuts are approved so rather then have some of both types only bench stock wire nuts. Ideal always made great products.
Yup, love Ideal wire nuts. Appreciate the feedback!
I use WAGO 221 lever nuts on small load locations such as LED lighting, and use regular wire nuts on all other potential high loads like receptacles. I understand that WAGO lever nuts have. ratings well in excess of residential requirements however i am still hesitant to use them when i can anticipate maximum loads over time. The new IDEAL lever nuts seem to be as good if not better than the WAGO 221 lever nut, i especially like the more robust reverse toggle arm which is less prone to pivoting. The WAGO has been around for a long time and everyone seems to carry them so i tend to use that product for lighter load requirements, have no concerns with the Ideal lever so both are acceptable. The WAGO is exceptionally good for viewing the wire insertion and that is a factor for us ageing people, and you can always use a wrap of electrical tape to add additional lever tab security if you are worried about the lever being toggled, however if you are vigilent during install that really shouldn’t be a factor. Cheers
On those Wago specs, there are different current and voltage ratings for the US and European markets. You can see them on the different sides; 32A and 450V for Europe, 20A and 300V for North America. There is no difference in actual capabilities, but of other differences in the wiring and what test authorities want in the two markets.
For example, in North America, the largest wire gauge that connector will take is 12 AWG, which is typically used on 20A circuits. However, in Europe wire is measured by cross-sectional area, and those connectors can take 4mm^2 cables, which has about 21% bigger cross-sectional area and are often used on 32A circuits (Europe appears to allow more amperage for a given cross-sectional area, perhaps because voltage drop is not such an issue with 230V standard, whilst in North America standard outlets are 120V - the voltage drop, as a percentage, will just be higher at 120V than 230V for the same current over the same cable type and length). The difference in voltage rating may be because in a typical North American home, the highest voltage difference that will be seen will be 240V between phases, whilst in Europe some countries, like Germany and the Netherlands, commonly have 3 phase power in domestic properties).
Shared, liked, watched entire video, and commented, I am already subscribed, thanks for shedding light on these fancy wire nuts.
wire harness tape is an option as well as electrical tape and has the advantage in the fact that it doesn't stretch like electrical tape does so its even more secure.
The Ideal having latches to hold down the levers is a great idea! But I've never had a problem with the Wago levers flopping, personally. I am just mindful of them when pushing them back into the box.
It doesn't really latch closed. There's a tiny audible click when it's closed all the way, but there's not much resistance to the lever opening until it starts trying to compress on the spring.
Ideal dropped the ball by only offering packs of 10. Do they expect electricians, which might install 50+ of these a day, to buy piles of 10 packs and mess up with opening a bag every 10 lever nut installed?
Probably not. They probably have the DIYer in mind right now. I have no doubt larger quantities will come out later. I have seen on Home Depot’s site where they sell larger quantities of the three port Ideal lever nuts but those are the only ones they have online currently.
Home depot has 50 packs of these on the shelf at my local store. $35 or so. Probably can order in bulk through a supply house, like a real electrician would
They have cardboard boxes of 150 and jars of 500. I bought the jar of 500 of the L22 directly from Amazon for $26, although they seem to have discontinued that particular package. That price was just crazy good at less than 6 cents each. I was bored and counted them, where I think I had 508.
I see their latest sell sheet, and now they have the L32/L33/L35 which are (US) rated for up to 30A and for 22-10 AWG wire.
Home Depot near me stocks the 50/bag of the 3 port Ideal lever nut and they ask $35. Or I can order from the Home Depot site, a 50/bag of the Wago 221s for $19.
Interesting. My Home Depot’s don’t stock either device 😂
@@phillipbanes5484 LOL, "usually" being the key word. You obviously don't shop Home Depot and their web site very much. FYI, the 2 port Ideal lever nut 10 pack is $7.48 and the 2 port Wago is $5.98 both "free ship to store." I can also order that Wago in 50 ($17.98) or 100 ($23.49) pack for even cheaper per unit but on Home Depot the Ideal is only in the 10 pack. So you see, the comparison was a reasonable illustration of what choices I have available and addressed both the aspect mentioned in the video of not in stock as well as the price difference.
I didn't ignore it and my comparison was perfectly valid as shown by my second comparison.
Your "usually" clause does not apply to this case and to home depot the clause seldom applies, which is not "usually."
You would know this if you cross shopped home depot and their web site. Your first post made your ignorance obvious, and you've now confirmed it.@@phillipbanes5484
P.S. if I had "completely ignored it" as you claimed, then I would not have acknowledge it. Ponder on that compared to what you write.@@phillipbanes5484
The discussion around taping the wago connector is interesting given my electrical reference book says best practice is to tape the twist on nuts.
No real electrician would even think of taping on a wire nut. That messy stuff is for a gouge in the wire. The tape makes a gooey mess. Electricians use it for taping together wires for pulling them through conduit. Then removing it.
that milk white plastic is a disadvantage from an inspection perspective. as for the levers...if you have a concern w/ one, you should've the same concern for the other...run a bit of tape around it if you think its an issue! The fact that WAGO has an "in-line" version is a HUGE advantage for me!
I guess my first buy will be an assortment kit and I’ll probably go to Lowe’s for my first purchase. I saw ideal, the other day on the shelf.
Yeah I seen Ideal at Lowe's I'll probably try them also. Unfortunately Lowe's doesn't carry Wagos Home Depot does at least in my area.
@@jonathan3982 I’ve also have seen the Wagos at Home Depot but Lowe’s had the large container of ideal
@@clarencewiles963 Must be my area, Lowe's doesn't carry the Wagos.
@@jonathan3982 I’m going to go back and check. I’ll get one or the other but Lowe’s carry’s ideal and Home Depot has the wagos😊
I buy Wagos online. Ideal at Lowes.
I would be interested to see if the manufacturers have considered the addition of a sleeve to lock the levers down. These could be great with a simple improvement.
Someone should hook both of them up to the same wires and have a "tractor pull ", to see which one holds onto the wire better. You put out very well thought out videos. Thanks.
There's a vid of a guy testing samples at the Upper Midwest Electrical Expo 2023. Did the pull test with both the Ideal In-Sure L2 and WAGO 221. He got it out with a good pull on the Ideal, but obviously way more force than it's ever going to get in practice unless someone is intentionally doing it. A wire nut simply wouldn't pull apart.
With WAGO he got the 221 to come loose but couldn't get a connection with a WAGO push-in connectors to come loose. And he was pulling really hard. The shell started to deform with the clear plastic becoming opaque white.
It's really just a theoretical test. No way will a real connection ever see that. Having used both the Ideal In-Sure L2 and WAGO 221, I can't see it coming loose in normal conditions unless one forgets to close or it's broken/defective.
Use Wago’s only and very happy. A lot of new lights come with Wago push only in the box, I like them also but prefer 221. Also like the Wago junction boxes for under floor and attic space, neat and lockable with Zip tie
As a cable monkey from Germany i have to point out that the Wago lever nuts are way too expensive for for standard installations. We usually use them when connecting stranded wire or to make temporary connections. They also take up way too much space in junction boxes compared to Wago's regular push in nuts.
One last bit. Guys please stop using multi meters on installations. They are high impedance and thus unsuitable for the job. They pick up any stray voltage from induction or capacitive coupling and throw you off. Also there is the danger of having the the dial in the wrong position, giving you false negatives.
Voltage testers are specifically designed to avoid these situations. Plus most of them have a push button for low impedance measurement. If used correctly you can use that to test RCDs or deliberately use them to turn off circuits on an RCD without having to run to the panel each time.
My pet peeve with the European round boxes is that they DO NOT HAVE ENOUGH ROOM to add a little bit of length of wire within the box in case the wire for some reason has to be cut shorter due to damage from a previous mis installation. Another irritant is that when installing boxes for drywall use on interior dividing walls is that there is no way to pre mount these boxes to the steel studs so we can run our Smurf ( American nickname for the flexible blue conduit ) into the boxes and then pull lines into them. Have you ever tried installing drywall boxes with a conduit feed into them? The boxes here in Greece suck. They utilize what we in America call remodel boxes that one fits into the drywall after the fact and they utilize flip over supports in the back. BTW, my home here in the Med is wired for both 120 vac 60Hz as well as 220 vac 50Hz. My 120 v system is utilized by my tools and appliances I brought with us from the states. No issues to this date all outlets for 120v system wired for 20 amp service being a bit larger than our 12 gauge wire used in the states is what I specified for use here. Breakers were purchased in the states for use with the system, they are DIN rail mount ( made by Schneider Electric ) so they can be used in boxes made by Hager. Power is supplied from solar for the time being. All boxes were brought in from the states and are UL approved with the appropriate fire ratings.
@@Subgunman I am used to these boxes, worked with them almost my entire life.
When handled correctly, they are a breeze to install. I personally like the round boxes for making it easy to sink them into the wall in any desired rotation.
Note that here in Germany, we never have mantled reserves inside the junction boxes, since 90% of the time the cables are plastered over. We just don't have that much drywall or wood construction here.
This fact seems very under reported on youtubes...
1. The inline Wago has a different AWG range. It's not for wire thinner than 20 AWG.
2. I used three Wagos in an electric guitar to simplify the connections of the two pickups' wires to the controls. It eliminates the need to solder close to the guitar body wood. It also allows for quick trial&error experiments with filter capacitors with no need for soldering, by connecting the capacitor's two leads to the common ground Wago and a pickup signal Wago. The slightly smaller size of the Wagos might make them a better choice than the Ideals, because they need to fit the small space under the control pots.
the primary thing I use lever nuts for is applications where components fail frequently and need to be changed out.
@@kenbrown2808 : I assume you mean you use lever nuts instead of soldering, rather than lever nuts instead of wire nuts or other kinds of quick connectors.
How frequently do your components fail?
The two examples I cited -- "installing a controls wiring harness into an electric guitar" and "experimenting with filter capacitors in an electric guitar" -- don't involve literal failure of components, but are similar to failure in the sense that the components might turn out to be undesirable.
@brothermine2292 you assume incorrectly. I use lever nuts instead of wire nuts in cases where i am needing to disconnect hardware once a year or more.
@@kenbrown2808 : The reason for my incorrect assumption is that the amount of extra time to undo/redo wire nuts, compared to lever nuts, doesn't strike me as a significant fraction of the replacement job's total time when "frequently" is actually a relatively long time... and failure rates for electrical/electronic components tend to be a relatively long time. What kinds of components tend to fail for you more frequently than yearly?
@@brothermine2292 it's the convenience of just lifting the lever to take out the failed component that makes the difference, and it's chemical metering valves.
I like how much space WAGO's save in a box!
Would be awesome if all of the advantages of these two lever nuts were combined. I can see the advantages of both!😊
Yup, me too. That’s why I’ll continue to use both. I have so many Wagos still too and I buy them in the higher quantities so as of right now they can be quite a bit cheaper.
I'd like to see a 10x strip of the inline connectors where I currently use a screw terminal block/strip. Saves having to do fork connectors.
You can get a mounting backing plate that clicks together and the in line connectors clip into. I bought some as was going to use the inline but then changed my mind and used a din rail mounted topjobs.
Why not just use a Euro style terminal strip? Still has setscrews but has holes to insert the wires before tightening, and full insulation. They can also be cut to length or used as singles. They come in ratings up to 50 amps, maybe higher. Another option is DIN rail mount terminal blocks. They come in a setscrew style or Wago makes them with push buttons as well. Cut a piece of din rail to length, mount it, and then put as many terminal blocks as fit on it. Some can split into multiple wires as well, and some are rated for 250A+. But for your application a Euro terminal strip would be perfect. And more secure than any lever connector. I have some installed in control panels feeding 5HP+ motors that have been there for years and they don't heat up, they don't loosen up, and they're nearly as insulated as the Wagos are. Smaller as well for a given amperage.
I wonder how identical Wago and Ideal lever nuts compare under heat and max current tests?
You should do a video comparing the two with the wire in them, pulling on them and see which one is stronger holding onto the wire the longest
You've done some excellent tests with the Wagos subjecting them to weight/pull with your fancy kettlebell weight and running too many amps through them and measuring heat. In that vein, I would really love to see a head-to-head test that includes the Ideals.
Yes, the Wagos drop some holding force when the lever pulls open a bit, but how does that reduced holding force compare to the Ideal ones, both when you push the Ideals all the way down to the lock detent and also when someone might forget that extra step?
How much heat do the Ideals generate when you run your test 24A through them as compared to the tests you already did on the Wagos?
Side note: Another channel, "Everyday Home Repairs", has done an Ideal vs. Wago heat test and the Wagos won that (not by a huge margin, and both were WELL below the design spec of the connectors even being overloaded).
Good video. I didn’t read all the comments but how does the thin metal connector inside compare on both? Are they both thin where they could still cause the same amount of resistance and possibly cause more heat ?
Home Depot sells Ideal connectors in bags of 50 for the two and three ports connectors and bags of 25 for the five port connectors on their website.
Interesting how this info video on WAGOs gets no views but the old one calling them “trash” has over a million.
I didn’t call them trash. It’s in quotations. It’s what gems like yourself called them.
@@HowToHomeDIY my apologies, to correct myself:
It’s fascinating to observe that your detailed and informative video about WAGOs has significantly fewer views compared to your other video that refers to WAGOs as “trash” in its thumbnail.
It’s just an observation but I’m glad ya see the sparkle in my thoughts pal 💎
I’ve already explained it, bud.
I agree with you 100 percent! I have experienced exactly what you talk about in your video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
You are very welcome! I like both connectors when I use lever nuts. Both have their pros and cons for sure. Thanks a lot for the feedback Randy!
what organizations certify these items for electrical use? and are they allowed for use throughout the U.S. States? Great review video!
UL. Yes they are. Appreciate the feedback Jorge!
No one is giving anyone a run in my book, unless I see interiour parts.
I am yet to see a video of Ideal connector disassembled. That's where comparison with stripped 221 should be made. The 221 is not, excuse the pun, ideal design; but at least I know how the fixture grabs the wire. That is *single important thing*.
(I have never, ever had 221 accidentally open on me. Neither I've heard of such occurance from fellow electricians; it is extraordinarily hard thing to pull off unlessyou pack your junction boxes blind)
I see that Lowe's has bulk packs of Ideal brand lever connectors for online ordering, as much as 4000-packs.
Cool
I haven't watched the whole video yet, but i used to think Ideal was a budget brand, however after using Ideal, they are somewhat of a premium product.
The Wago has another test port under the lever with the Wago logo.
Wago sells the Wagobox. It is a snap shut Jbox. Not sure what an inspector would make of it though.
Awesome comparison video!! Thank you! 👍🏼
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
Platt has the Ideal in large tubs for contractors
I'll go for the Ideal every time
Here in the Philippines, we are doing any kinds of wire splicing because we don’t have WAGOS and we have a limited kinds of terminals here
I just used these ideal connections in a new ceiling fan installation, and for some smart switches I put in my room.
My *only* caveat is that I feel that the pulling force to remove them is less than wagos, but that could have been my fault.
Wagos have test ports on both ends too.
Sounds like WAGOs just need to add some little bumps on the transparent plastic to keep the levers from lifting.
They actually have that already. When closing the levers, there is a slight snap when they are fully home. But this decent is much weaker than the Ideal’s locking mechanism.
Nice evaluation, My question is, can these In-Sure® Lever Wire Connectors 3-Port be used in wet locations? Exterior outlets. the website did not really address that. Thanks
My electrician taught me to tape up of the wago and the wires going into it with electrical tape so that exact problem won’t be an issue.
Another great video! Thanks for the comparison.