8 Wire Stripper Features Everyone Should Know
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 พ.ค. 2024
- Wire Strippers are incredibly ingenious! They include so many well thought out features. Which ones do you know about?
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Here are the wire strippers that I have tested out and would recommend. Each of these has different strengths but all are high quality and great for regular use.
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00:00 - Introduction to Wire Strippers
00:17 - Stranded vs Solid Wire Strippers
02:26 - Needle Nose Pliers
03:26 - Wire Grabber
05:16 -Hooks Holes for Terminal Screws
06:41 - Cutting Wires and Creating Hooks
07:12 - Bolt Cutters and Shears
07:33 - Additional Wire Stripper Functions
08:56 - Universal Wire Strippers
13:46 - Conclusion and Further Learning - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
8-32 is not more "coarse threaded" than 6-32. It's just thicker. The "-32" part _is_ the thread size. Otherwise great video! Thanks!
You beat me to it. Yes, they are both coarse thread machine screws, having a thread pitch of 32 threads per inch, versus the fine pitch versions at 40 threads per inch. 🙂
To be super theoretical, in a sense 8-32 is actually a finer thread than 6-32. To maintain the same number of threads at a larger diameter, their angle is slightly increased. Like the other comment mentioned, at this size, 32 is coarse and 40 is fine, but at 1/4" 20 is coarse and 28 is fine. 32 would be extra fine.
As @paulholmes672 said, it’s actually thread pitch, not thread size.
@@Lethal_Bite You are technically correct, which is the best kind of correct :)
Thread pitch, not size
Ive been using strips for 40 years , never knew these functions ! Thanks 😊😊
Besides the Milwaukee guy using the wrong way(timestamp:-11:15) to do a proper crimp on the crimp connectors this video was well put together.
The pin side of the crimper goes on the flat side of the crimp connector while the wire side of a crimp connector goes on the Crimpers cup side to get a solid crimp on the wire.
Otherwise you will get a loose crimp connection and wire can loosen and slip out of the connector overtime especially in any kind of place were there is constant vibration for the connector to deal with.
The good thing if you did the crimping the wrong way and find the crimp connection of the connector loose to the wire, then you can always flip the loose crimped wire in the crimper and re-crimp your connector to the wire right way and have a solid well crimped wire altogether for use.
Ya if you pause on his crimp you can see it's not solid.
Great tip!
Try crimping some wire connectors onto wires in person for yourself and then say that you haven't done/seen any crimping in-person so you don't have any idea of bad and good crimping for yourself.
#2 is a crimper. Use them to crimp the little crimp caps or "beans".
No, number 2 is an extremely poor excuse for a crimper.
Anybody that as ever used a ratchet crimper will agree. They are cheap enough that you can do the job and connection cleanly these days. Any tradesman that comes to me house or business and used that for crimping will get my eyebrows raised.
@@gottliebdee263 Very true. And what's more than that(*) there isn't actually such a thing as a generic "crimper". Each type of terminal and connector requires a different crimping die to properly crimp and not using the correct one will oftentimes leave you with a weak connection or an otherwise insufficient one, often leading to pull-out, pinched cables, damaged insulation or conductors, arcing, intermittent contact or other shenanigans. I recently bought a proper set which contains a ratcheting crimping tool with interchangeable dies, which covers most of the common types of terminals and connectors. It was quite pricey and contains twelve different sets of dies for fourteen different types of crimp terminals and connectors, each with a significantly different shape. You can tell just by looking at the shapes that they are absolutely not interchangeable, while the crimp terminals themselves oftentimes do look quite similar in shape, especially the part where the crimp is applied
(*)You obviously already know this
@@gottliebdee263 So, actually "yeah, but i dont like it" is what you say. Its not great for sure, but if its one of these or some random pliers, or even the good old mangling side cutters, the "cirimper" crimper is brilliant.
@@BinaryBlueBull Ah, yes. I'd actually forgotten that point.
That said, to get a set that does the red, yellow and blue (ring, but and blade crimps), is well with investing in. They are reasonably universal. Once you get to 10mm2 cable it's a different game
Yes it is a cheap crimp, it will be effective for the gauge of the wire that you can strip
I was 100% sure that I had nothing to learn about a pair of strippers. BUT, I didn't know how the bolt cutters work. I knew they were for cutting those "bolts," but I would never have used them because I figured they would destroy the threads. I never noticed they were actually threaded. I haven't cut many of those screws, but when I have I have gone through the trouble of dragging out the dremel and putting a cutting blade on it and all that. Just pulled my old trusty well-worn Klein Tools stripper out and tried it and it's actually really good. Thanks for teaching an old man something new about a tool I've used for probably thousands of hours.
You've used them for thousands of hours, and in all that time you never thought that they were included on that tool for a reason other than destroying the threads? 'Cause that’s a good business decision for a tool company, and customers would love to have that feature.
FFS
Here in the UK nearly 50 years ago I bought a tool similar to the Knipex stripper made by Plasplug. Although I don't do much wiring nowadays, when I need to these strippers are still up to the challenge. Nothing fancy just does the job it was designed for which probably explains how it's survived for so long.
This is a fantastic easy to follow. Super comprehensive video. Thank you.
Don't twist , it scores a line in the wire.
You don't try to cut all the way through the insulation , you just cut the outer sheath and tear the rest of the way.
The "wire cutter" blade is a strip gauge , the straight blade is the standard length you strip off the wire, if you need a longer amount stripped you use the holes to consistently get the same length.
Can you elaborate on the strip gauge? What holes?
@@queueeeee9000 the length of the blade is the same as the distance you normally strip the wire.
If you want to go a longer , and keep it consistent you use the holes as a measurement
@@glennchartrand5411 I see. Thanks for replying!
I've always used that oval tip on the Klein as a wire connection crimper. It wouldn't work well for that on smaller wire, but for the heavier stuff it's fine. Also, I have one of those cheap, stamped steel and plastic auto strippers like the orange and blue one in the background. I think I paid $10 for mine 20 years ago at a state fair and it served me well during my time working in telecomm. Works just like the Knipex you featured.
8-32 and 6-32 screws have the same thread pitch being 32 threads per inch.
Interesting. I would never had thought the little hole was used to put a loop on the end of the wire. I normally just use the tips on mine since they are about the right width to create a perfect loop for most terminal screws on outlets and switches. Well thought out and presented information...probably very helpful for folks who have not done a lot of wiring.
The holes in the "Ears" of the receptacle or switch can be used to make loops as well
I'm more concerned how people didn't figure this out already. I knew every function of wire strippers since I was 8.
@@yaboidustin2447 True and after checking both my pair neither even have that little hole and there are better ways to do that anyway.
I know all these functions because they are written on the tool itself 😆 "loop" "cut insert screws" "crimp" etc
Cool video on this type of tool. I knew several of the features already but I wasn't sure what the holes were for that you used to bend loops in the wire. So I am still learning. Unfortunately they make many different types of these type tools and some have even more features and at that point I think it comes down to personal preference. I think I might pick up a new set to keep in my little toolbox in the house.
Your "wire grabber" is for making a SCREW HOOK,, THE CUTTER IS MADE ESPECIALLY FOR ROMEX.. 8-32 IS NOT MORE CORSE THREADED TNAN A 6 - 32,, THEY ARE EXACTLY THE SAME. blades are called bypass ,not over-lapping,, the automatics can be adjusted to do phone or alarm wire,,, hit once to remove outer ins., hit again and strip all conductors at one time.. One of the knobs is a tension adjustment, the other is a dept setting..... it looked like you had the crimper upside down.. It makes the difference between a good crimp and a failed crimp....
no need to yell
@@stocktonnash Can you please speak up.. I can't hear you....
@@stocktonnashEmphasis! Not yelling. But let us forget about context.
@@twistedhillbilly6157 Bring back the "BLINK" tag.
I don't think these things deal with dept. A depth setting would make sense, though :)
Awesome video!
I think I'm going to grab a few of the 7in1 milwaukee strippers now thanks to your video's recommendation for them.
The EMT pipe reamer will come in very handy
Handyman here. I use both the Milwaukee 7-in-1 and the Klein auto wire stripper, though I cut off the depth stop on the Kleins because it kept loosening. I hear the Irwin auto-strippers are better. I use a Knipex off-set mini bolt cutters as my diagonal pliers. Helps with my elbow, which is prone to inflammation. They've fit in every situation I've needed them to.
I bought an Irwin auto stripper and it absolutely sucks. Klein and Milwaukee so much better.
The Irwin auto stop is nearly useless and loosens all the time as well.
@@Obtuse94 Thanks for the tip, you guys. May have saved me a bad purchase.
I have the Klein Tools 11063W automatic strippers. They are like the Knipex shown in the video, but with the form of the Klein he showed. They have individual blade sections for each wire gauge, like the standard wire strippers. So, they are a bit more manual than the completely automatic strippers, but I feel they give the cleanest result for the effort. I use them a lot when doing automotive wiring and they are my go to over an automatic set similar to the ones he showed or over a standard manual stripper.
This just followed another video i was watching and i am glad it did. i knew most of the functions on those but learned a few, thanks.
This was one of the most helpful and informative DIY videos I've watched in a long time. Great job!
I didn't know about the bolt sheer way cool to learn something new and handy . Thank you
Cool!! Been using those for years and had no idea. Speed square is another tool that usually gets used for one purpose but has many.
Unlike the flat-head screwdriver. It has one purpose, but gets used for many. 😂
@@Guitarplayer724 I thought the flathead started life as a paint can opener and someone figured out they could make screws.
Very nice video. Really helpful. Knipex are on the expensive side of things but they are reliable and you can change it's blades when they become dull.
Thank you sir! I learned a few things.
Very helpful information for what these special pliers are suppose to do, thanks
I knew about the other features, but I had no idea my wire strippers had a bolt cutter! Wow
I had never had a wire stripper with a good bolt cutter. I think its a myth. I go for a mini grinder and small disk usually.
@@eraldylliklein tools hybrid strippers cut bolts like butter
@@andrewlacerenza667 Never had the chance to use their products here in Eastern Europe.
@@eraldylli the Knipex 13718 are very similar minus the crimping feature, but they cut bolts really great too. Highly recommended if in search in the European market.
@@andrewlacerenza667 - Knipex tools are great in the USA too
I always liked my older Cornwell LS series wire strippers. Cutter is on the same portion of the strippers which are below the pivot. The older versions, the non insulated crimper was rounded enough you could use it on insulated terminals as well for an even better crimp without tearing through.
This is an awesome tutorial. Well thought out and put together. I will say it's the best one i've seen on wire strippers. Thank you for this video.
I have had those knipex wire strippers for awhile now and use them daily. They are by far the best I’ve used and have not stopped working like all my other versions of universal wire strippers.
Knipex is the best !!! Better than Klein 1,000%
Just a suggestion. Use a larger aperture or take the camera out of portrait mode. So little is in focus that it's tough to watch. 🍻
yeah - the video, info, and his talking points are all great, the constant shifting in focus/blur though was kind of tough to get through.
Great job making the video, excellent tips and tutorial.
4:45 - Using the (uninsulated) ground conductor to determine gauge of the insulated conductors. Be aware that on older "Romex" (NM cable) the ground conductor may be a size smaller than the current carrying conductors. IIRC, the NEC started requiring a full sized ground in the early 70's
6:10 Thanks for showing a failure and then how to fix it I truly appreciate that 😊
Great video.
I didn’t know several of those items
On the Milwaukee 6 in 1 strippers you showed. You can use the bolt cutter as a hook bending point and if it’s in the closed position it sort of acts as a depth gauge too.
Thank you, this is a useful video. However, at 11:13 the crimper should go the other way around, with the pin on the flat side of the terminal. The open barrel junction of the terminal needs to be closed by the round side of the crimper rather than opened up by the crimper pin.
This is great, can you do a similar video but for multimeters?
When using the Bolt Shears, make sure to thread in from the threaded side.
If you thread it in from the other side & cut, you will have difficulty getting the threaded shaft out.
The fact that you felt you had to write this worries me lol😂😂😂😂😂
You would be surprised what some do
The needle nose pliers end also fits the knurled rings that hold toggle switches in place in dashboard’s ect. Easy way to tighten or loosen when installing or remove without damaging toggle switches or dash.
I have no plans to strip wires. But now I'm ready.
#2 is great for "pre cut" wires on new install for Automotive or low voltage. Manufactures pre cut wires and it's easy and fast to "drop in a wire" to the notch. Yeah I work with bionic people that could pull off 4-6 violently barehandly during an install, but with my small gauge wires.
never knew the cutting screw function. worth watching the video. thanks
Thanks! I learned a lot.
I HATE stripping wires with this type of stripper, but this was really helpful! Hopefully I'll remember some of these when I need them. 😂 I'm still using my automatic strippers 99% of the time though!
I personally really like my Klein Tools 11063W, which are similar to the Knipex you showed, but in the same form factor as the Klein set you showed. I feel they give a really tidy result even if they take slightly more effort than the other type of automatic strippers. I still go back to the manual strippers when I need to tidy up a strip that didn't go well or I have to take off the smallest amount of insulation. Also, I personally hate the style of crimper included in most wire stripper cutters. That little dimple press makes such a crap connection and I would only ever use it for temporary wiring and testing. A proper pair of ratcheting crimpers or at least one with bigger dies and more surface area is totally worth it.
Unbelievable that i have been using these for 30 years and never paid attention to stranded vs non-stranded side of the jaws. Thanks!
Fun fact the hooks can be made with the ears on the outlets and switches. The gap below the needle-nose I believe is used simply as a wire/jacket puller.
Find you a metric pair for the bolt shears... They work great with brass screws. Brass rews are good for 3D prints, you can use them to quickly heat set holes
The "mouse" ears are actually "plaster ears." The "ground" that he used is actually called a bar wire and if it is a grounded wire it is frequently one size smaller than the current carrying conductors. If both bolts have 32 teeth per inch the larger is not coarser. He did not shear the head off, hr cut off the excess bolt. Ron W4BIN
I’m just here to tell you how amazing the thumbnail is
Haha - thanks, brother. I tested three but one crushed the other two in the test. Great to see you in FL, by the way!
Very curious how the Klein 9 inch combination pliers / wire strippers compare to the Milwaukee 7-and-1.
Can you also use the tip to squeeze across the insulation to split it? In telecom, i used the underside of my diagonal cutters that had a set of teeth similar to the ones at the tip of these strippers in between the handles. I would squeeze the jacket of the solid ground wire, move up a little, squeeze again, and then peel the insulation jacket off and cut it. It could be used in case you need to take a little bit more insulation off of a hooked conductor. Just like you showed that you had a little bit more insulation then you wanted on the wire after hooking it. Split it with the teeth, remove it, and dont need to bend the hook again or cut the wire.
Learned a couple things thanks!
Those bolt cutter holes are great to use to twist wires together (if both wires fit through it) - much tighter twist, which you can control with tension on handles
I think you might find you can make the reamer bigger with the catch that flips out. Also when the strippers towards the end of video didn’t completely remove the insulation it can be used to twist it neater than if you completely remove it before twisting it?
Great, well presented and pleasant to watch.
The only description i could find for the "wire grabber" part was a screw tightener/loosener but it wasnt the exact same set of wire strippers although it was mostly the same style head.
When I make the hook and put it around the terminal, I always squeeze the ends tighter around the screw.
Good video!
I like how 90% of the vid is out of focus
Great job explaining dude!
The Knipex strippers don't remove the cut insulator on purpose. You can leave the cut insulator over the stranded wires until you are ready to use the wires. The plastic insulator keeps the wire strands from separating and spreading out, leaving them much easier to deal with.
Makes sense. Kind of like how many fixtures are sold with the jacket separated but not removed.
Yeh if I want to land stranded wire on a receptacle without a crimp connector I’ll leave the insulation on the end of the stranded wire and twist it nice and tight, wrap it around the screw on your switch or receptacle and it keeps the stranded wire tight enough to make a tight connection. Works well in a pinch.
As a junior biomed engineer my favorite tool for stripping very small wires (24 awg or smaller) is the black xcellite universal strippers (similar to the kinipex at the end of the video, though I haven't tried that brand).
However there is still a limit before it starts to damage the conductors. Starting on a loose (-) setting and gradually tightening until it strips helps.
For extremely small wires (30 awg or less) I guess that heated tweezers may be better, but would love to hear from someone with more experience with small wires!
Heated blades in general, but that means a battery to replace.
I remember when I was running conduit every day, all day, we chose to use either a pair of channel locks without the dipped handles on, or my favorite, the reamer screwdriver with replaceable die's. I mean you're not stripping wire the same time you're running conduit.
Great video! I agree not to twist when stripping.
Thank you for the tutorial. It was very informative. :)
those Knipex at the end are ordered and going in my toolbag :)
Amazing cinematography
Wow, what a wonderfully helpful video, thank you.
From Klein's website. Wire Stripper easily cuts and strips 10-22 AWG wire
Multi Tool's narrow, serrated plier jaws pull, loop and bend wire
Cleanly shears 4-40, 5-40, 6-32, 10-32 and 10-24 screws and crimps insulated, non-insulated terminals and 7-8 mm ignition terminals
Cutters and strippers are in front of the pivot to easily reach into tight places
Made in USA
Plastic-covered cushioned handles for comfort
Thanks-a-lot!!! I knew of some, but not all of the applications. Great video !
I use the “wire grabber” part to crimp connectors onto the wire, not sure if that’s correct but it gets the job done
Very Informative, Thanks. Learnt something
Cheers
Love my Milwaukee wire tool. Been using it for a few years now
One favorite trick I use for solid wire is tilt the cutter 30-45 degrees to cut, then straighten it out. This pushes the insulation just a hair, breaking its bond to the wire, making it easy to push off. I also always crimp the wire on screw terminals; if the screw ever backed loose, the wire can't wander off in the box. Never use the push-in holes if you don't absolutely have to.
As a novice, thanks for the tutorial.
With the Knipex style of stripper, it is beneficial to have the insulation stay on the end of the braided wire. You remove the insulation by twisting it between your fingers. This causes the braids to twist together smoothly, making it much easier to remove the insulation and mechanically more secure when putting the wire into a crimp or to twist two wires together (i.e. wire nut). If you leave the strands straight you run the risk of one(many) strands not going into the crimp or around a post(soldering). Same risk as using to small a gauge to strip, where you cut the strands reducing the wire size (amp capability). I learned this in the G-spec soldering class. They even had specs on how the insulation should be cut at 90degree to wire, zero wire nick, not stretching the insulation because it will shrink back and expose to much of the conductor, etc. A little bit of overkill for large gauge wiring. But that one trick really helped while doing house and lamp cord type wiring. It also saves the hands. Gorilla strength to get that last 1/4inch of insulation off by pulling with the strippers one hand vs the other or gentle pinch and twist between two fingers. With most braided wires, think wall heater or light fixtures, the factory leaves the insulation on the end, not because they are lazy or cheap. They do it to protect the strands. Choosing between twist or pull. Twist is much easier on the hands. That is my experience. Give it a try. If it works for you. Great. If it doesn't, no harm.
Stranded wire going around a screw, I twist counterclockwise to wind it clockwise on the screw. This seems to keep it from unraveling.
The setting where the stripped insulation stays on the wire is for marine and small instrument use where the salty sweat from your mittengrabbens would be detrimental to the longevity of the connection! When I'm doing repairs in awkward positions, i invariably feel the need to give the new strip a half twist to ensure there are no whiskers sticking out on my blind side, so the little stripped piece is what i pinch to do that, and then pull it off in one motion. No salt or grime off my hands on the clean wire.
Great video very pleasant to follow.
Interesting, thanks for sharing.
The upper adjustment on the Knipex is not a pressure setting but a insulation thickness setting. If it doesn't cleanly cut the insulation then adjust it for a more aggressive cut. If it nicks the wire adjust it for a less aggressive cut.
I'd say never twist the wire when stripping, because it might damage the core.
The better way is to apply some pulling force when stripping the wire, that way when the sheathe is all the way cut you can feel the breaking, and you can take the signal to stop cutting and start pulling the sheathe out.
Also I find the gripper head good for sorting frayed stranded wire. The teeth of the gripper can be used like a comb or die to straighten individual strands. After that, it can also be used to twist the stands when preparing them to be tinned. (Try avoid twisting the stands when using cold-clamping terminals though.)
Well explained.
Well done, informative video. Thanks for your effort. One small nit-pick though, the 6/32 and 8/32 screw cutters have the same (32 threads/inch) "coarseness". Difference being the diameter of the screw.
On my Milwaukee strippers the hook holders are on one side of strippers and the bolt cutters are on the opposite side but they share the same holes when the strippers are closed
My personal favorite wire strippers don't have any of these functions, just strippers. 2 different sets one goes down to 8g and the other up to 32g. I have 4 different sets of strippers but I like the plain ones the best. Something about being much smaller. So yes, I grab the small strippers, barrel nose pliers, needle nose pliers and diagonal cutters instead of the compound one.
That space between the end and the stripper holes is called the perineum. 😉
I've been using the same wire stripper for 20 years at work, and always wondered what the 6-32 and 8-32 threads were for. I guess I never needed to cut one of those bolts shorter. Is it really that common?
One thing not mentioned is the comfort of the handles. Especially when needing extra force like clipping a small bolt/screw. A lot of these tools have very square profile handles(though usually rubber dipped), rather than rounded. Seems like a lot of hand tool manufacturers put more thought in to the tool end and less in the handle end. Like screw drivers- for some reason, tool makers think that when a person needs a smaller screw driver that it also needs a smaller handle. Like the size of your hand changes when you need a smaller tool. I'm not talking about jewelers tools but just dropping in size from a #3 Phillips to a #1.
Thank you for the information I didn't know that .👍
Great video. I learned something new.
In Europe we use (used?) more often adjustable wire strippers like the Knipex 11 12 160. Seems not to be available on the US market?
Thank you so much for this! I would have never thought to ask.
I had no idea it could cut small bolts and that knippix brand has the length measurement built into the cuttter if i did home electical every day i would totally get a set
Man, here in the Netherlands, the type that's at the 10 o'clock position (flat, red handle) is very common. I'm sad that you didn't show that one :(
I’ve used the wire grabber to squeeze wire crimp joiners.
Amazing video for a simple tool!
Seems like a cool video maybe try reshooting it with a camera that is in focus and I would be able to watch it
That opening below the the serated jaws on top of the strippers. I found a couple of diagrams that show different functions of the opening. Only 1 had a name, which I don't know if all the companies call it the same thing but they called it the mouth of the pliers..lol.
When you're using that screwdriver to back out the screw after you got done cutting it I honestly was thinking damn that screwdriver has seen better days but then I realized that it's a flat head and a Phillips combined and I've never seen one like that it kind of blew my mind a little bit
Gracias por su estupendo vídeo 👏🏼👏🏼
Your “wire grabber” is used to squeeze down crimp connectors. Personally I prefer to use detent crimp tools but that is its function.
The "wire grabber" is actually a terminal cramper. If you use those terminals jackets (don't know the name in english sorry, it is basically a plastic jacket with a metalic tips that you put in the cables, to improve it's contact, specially good when using stranded cable) you then crimp it to lock it in
I was this old....wow! thanks!
One function that I recently came across just messing around is you can use the whole head of the tool to split two strand