So out of curiosity, which wire connector do you think is best? What are you using now? For convenience, there are links to all of them in the video description so you can check them out for yourself!
I have been an EE and a licensed electrical contractor for 42 years. I always twist first and have used Ideal “Tan” wire nuts (with “wings”) for most of those years and used the Ideal “Yellow” type wire nuts before switching. For HVAC #18 or #16 solid copper and Fire Alarm / Automation Controls #18 /#16 / #14 solid copper, I always used different sizes of Ideal wire nuts (blue / orange / grey ) depending on size and number of wires to connect. I have switched to the Ideal “InLine” lever connectors about 8 months ago and will never go back ! I even use 3 “port” connectors for much of our HVAC and thermostat installations, leaving one “port” empty. It’s a great way to test and troubleshoot. (Using a small jumper of the same wire gauge). Beats disassembling connections to test controls. They are much better than Wago as far as the lever locking mechanism. Thanks for the video.
when i was doing my sparky training in the very late 80's i would have loved to have used wago's but then we had to learn how to hard strip wires to the required lengths to double up and not go deep and all that stuff the plethora of tools available these days means that almost anyone can do a job that took proper skills to learn to do back in the day but it also makes life easier and less stresful when you've nicked a wire and then have to run an entire length again, twice, been there, done that, and then i put a drill through the same wire from the other side as i'd left it dangling before i made the final hole in the joist wagos saved the day with their ease of use
One of the benefit of Wago and other lever nuts over the wing nuts is in rewiring a box. A twisted wing nut does just that, twists the wire. If you have to add a wire or remove one, you end up with a twisted wire that you have to try and straighten before it can be reused. It’s very hard to do when your wire doesn’t quite reach outside the box. Having a Wago means you can still connect it without the wire getting all bent and twisted. It also makes adding or removing a wire very easy.
Also, twisting and straightening a wire will work harden it making it more likely to break. This is a concern with wire nuts when doing rework (especially if you don't know how many times the wire has been twisted and straightened out already), not a concern with lever nuts.
@@davidperry4013 Yeah I used to use those. The wagos are so much more flexible though since you can remove the wires (even stranded) without having to strip more insulation.
My experience with Wagos are that they tend to be space hogs and are more expensive. Wire nuts are cheaper and cover more varieties of situations. Where Wagos do best is where serviceability is required.
@@Weuffel not the variation or size I was talking about. Wagos are generally larger per number of wires they accept. Also, wire nuts tend to accept a much larger variety of wire groupings per size. Yes, you can get smaller Wagos for smaller wires. However, they are still very limited in application usage per unit. The ideal orange-blue wire nuts, for example, range from 22 AWG to 10 AWG and can connect up to four 12 AWG wires. Name a Wago with that kind of variety of acceptance. Wagos do have their place but generally they are best suited for maintenance and testing scenarios where quickly swapping connections is important.
The Orange Blue wire nut can not safely handle (5) #12 wires like the Wago can. - You would need the red/yellow version which is larger. I really do enjoy working with lever nuts. Quicker and easier to make modifications, and you can re-use them.
Much as I like the Wagos I had one open up when installing a recessed ceiling light. It was the only one that failed to light when we powered them on and it took less than a minute to find the loose wire, but I learned to be more careful when folding wires into the box.
Personally, I've never had a friendly relationship with wire nuts, so I do like the WAGOs, except for price. I do not recall that you commented on the number of wires you can combine in one of the newer wire nuts. This could be a big factor. Thanks
You made a great educational video, I don’t understand why some comments are so blindly polarized on one or the other! You specifically give examples of who and why and when to use one over the other. I’m not an electrician and I’ve twisted hundreds of wire nuts and still prefer them overall, but there’s some occasions when the quick connects are so convenient that they warrant the higher price so I use both (90 wire nuts). Since quick connects are industry approved its great to have the choice depending on the job, we should be grateful for choices!
I first learned about WAGOs from one of your videos years ago. Over the years I’ve been involved in lots of wiring projects and the WAGO connector was a nice trick to add to the tool bag. I still mostly use wire nuts and save the lever connectors for difficult, temporary, fast, or mix media connections. When the wire nut is easy I go there first.
Yeah I agree with you on that one. Wire nuts are better for permanently splicing at most 3 wires, especially when dealing with things like daisy chained outlets. I know Wagos don't really have enough resistance to cause so much of a voltage drop, but still, if we can avoid certain power issues, why not. For ballasts or light fixtures though, especially since they come with stranded wire, Wagos definitely shine here.
Agree about the Wago 221's. I was running a few accessory circuits in my Suburban and noticed the levers have a way of opening inadvertently if you're not careful. I tried a few of the Ideal connectors and didn't have this problem. Wago 222's have very firm levers that do not have the problem of the 221's. I'd recommend the Wago 222's.
I started using the 3M wirenuts near 20 years ago in industrial, commercial and residential. I use them for almost everything. There are times when the WAGOs are better, so I use them. Each has their use in a project.
Fantastic review! Both the WAGO and IDEAL connectors are great. I've seen these used more and more and they are super helpful when hanging lighting fixtures. GREAT review and presentation! 👍👍👍
I’ve been using WAGOs for a long time especially after opening CB radios and finding someone used wire nuts and they had come off leaving the joint capable of touching the metal chassis. I also use them on 12v systems and 240v here in Australia. As with anything you must strip the wire correctly and insert it correctly and then it won’t come out. There very handy for wiring because if you suddenly realise you need another wire you just use another WAGO with more connections.
I just had to wire nut wires for my 12V transformer to reduce the number of wires going into the COM port and didn't even think to use my WAGO connectors! Doh
I recently wired my electrical system in my cargo conversion camper that I am building. The wago’s were great to work with as I could easily correct any mistakes I happened to make without have to cut wire. To me that is one of the best things with lever connectors.
I personally like the Wagos, especially in a crowded box, because they allow the wires to pivot, making stuffing the connection into the box much easier. I assume the same would be true for Ideals version.
The only time that I have used Wago lever connectors is when I was adding electrical accessories on my Goldwing. Definitely taped those levers down. Was a clean look in very limited space, especially for my big hands.
Thanks for your video and comparison. In my country, Germany, wire nuts are not allowed to use. Tha wagos with the lever are only used if needed (connect stranded and solid wire), because they are expensive. For solid wires the wagos without lever are used. If rewireing is needed ( take out one wire and add another one) the wagos have an advantage.
yes, german. you can simply twist and pull the wires out of the wagos without lever. its quite easy. lever wagos are mostly only used if connect stranded with solid by professionals. price is almost the same, no one care and the customer pay.
I LOVE wago's. This channel always promotes the 221 type. I learned they are inferior due to ease of lever flip up. Check out the 222 type. These have a grey body and orange levers, WHICH, DO, CLICK UP AND DOWN. In fact, the move from down to up sometimes is under so much pressure, I use a tool to flip up the levers. Check out the Wago 222 type - These too come in all the multi wire and wide range of awg's too. What I like MOST about Wago's are the ease in accessing wires for later upgrades without need to further shorten wires each time, like is required when using wire nuts. Also, NO, ARC-ing. Combing a fixtures' tiny stranded wires with much larger, solid wire, house wiring using a wago rocks.
IMHO, the most important feature of a connector is the amount of resistance measured after the connection is made. Less resistance creates less heat and voltage drop, and wire nuts have been demonstrated time and again to provide the best connection. Try it for yourself - same size and length conductors and measure the Ohms.
At my job I got my boss to start using the Ideal 5 port and two port for when we replace fast acting fume hood damper actuators. We have so many that wear out and having to untangle the wires in a wire nut to remove just one of them is a pain. Now we flip the lever, take out the one wire without disturbing the other 4 common wires, and swap in the new one. Especially when the actuator is in an awkward position in the ceiling. Never going back.
Here's two valid points about joints: 1) The number one failure in any electrical wiring is/are the splices usually in the wirenuts. 2) HOWEVER, when done PROPERLY the wirenut is still a far superior option vs a wago or press in splices. The wirenut is stronger and allows the splice to have more surface area which make a better connection. If you're a home owner/DIYer and your working with more than a few conductors i would recommend using a wago vs a wirenut.
Wago is starte of the Art in europe and noone is using wirenuts.. Most countries they are banned or strongly regulated because of their high chance to fail hidden over time and cause fires.. Beside thats connectors are also mich faster and cheaper and easy to check or reconnect.
Wire nuts are illegal in most of the world due to the statistically higher instance of domestic fires caused by their use. Similarly, most countries require that earth wires are sleeved - for this you can buy yellow/green sleeving in any electrical store. For high current or compound junctions in excess of three wires, I typically go to secured block or fast-solder connectors, although these seem to be uncommon in the USA. In Europe we seek to minimize or otherwise manage the number of compound junctions through design. For instance, lighting and switches are connected via star connectors blocks/buses secured in boxes in the attic/loft. Typically an insulated box will contain only one electrical signal - live, neutral or earth. This effectively eliminates any risk of electrical short circuit. You will never see light switch boxes in the UK serving a secondary role as a junction box for wiring! We now use the full lever connectors in the UK - use of wago is trending down. I can appreciate that with lower operating voltages and higher currents, that wire nuts remain popular in the USA but at the very least these should be taped using non-flammable electrical tape (also widely unavailable in the USA). Overall I'd describe domestic USA wiring codes as somewhere between disappointing and dismal.
@@danlux4954 Wire nuts were banned in Britain over 50 years ago (when they were using ceramic caps) and you have to dig through journals to see the evidence. Meaning you would have to take my word for the data. So rather than do that, I suggest you look up the fire statistics on internet for the UK versus the USA. In truth the difference in figures is due to more than just wire nuts. We've never had aluminum wiring in the UK and we operate at higher voltages with correspondingly lower currents. This also means the thermal stress on connections (I2R) is correspondingly lower whereas arc-over is higher due to 240V. We also use ring mains which, despite having disadvantages in terms of fault detection, also reduce thermal heating on wire (since we use max amperage wire on the ring). Altogether, it is hard to see why America made the decisions it made. That said, commercial wiring in the USA is better than domestic. I've worked in Australia, Asia, Africa, USA and UK so I probably have a unique perspective as I've worked in the industry almost exactly 50 years. Generally, I find tradespeople in the UK to amongst the best in the world whereas, unfortunately due to incredibly lax standards, the USA is the worst amongst western countries (but head and shoulders better than elsewhere). I live and work in the USA and I've seen more horror stories here than I care to recount. My advice to ANYONE in the USA is to have an independent inspector check the wiring before the walls are closed and again before moving in. I know for a fact this has prevented fires.
3M T&R+ by the gallon. I use wagos in locations I know I'm going to be separating connections frequently. but I don't use them for live work or corrosive environment work. they fail in less than a year in corrosive environments.
Just have to say, I really love Wago's. I've installed so many of these I've lost count and never had a failure. Yes, you do have the be careful with the levers and the Wago levers are actually easy to break if not cautious. The Ideal pieces do look very nice, I'll have to try them.
Is it right to compare a wire nut with a 5 port WAGO? Can you put 5 wires in that wire nut? It seems I heard that you should never put more than three wires in a wire nut, which means it would take TWO wire nuts for the same 5 wires of the WAGO. Plus the pig-tail wire. Unless you know something else.
I ultimately compared it to all of them. You can put 5 wires in a wire nut. Need to check the capacities though of each wire nut to know how many of what gauge it’s rated for though. There are capacities and best practices. They don’t always align.
I've never had any problem with a wire nut, and just don't like the different metal in the level-type. I was always told that using different metals in a connector can lead to problems. So, two copper wires are going to make better connection if they are in a wire nut vs going copper to tin to copper, or whatever silver metal is in the level connector. If a DIY can't navigate a wire nut, they probably shouldn't be touching wires.
Four different cases in different locations lost power to printer outlets, cubicles, ceiling lights, etc. - in each case it was failed wagos - installed by electricians ! I cut the wagos out and replaced these wagos with " properly installed" wire nuts WITH WIRES TWISTED TOGETHER !!!!! You like wagos so much -:you can have them !!!!! I am going to test one on #12 wire, wired to 20 amp outlet on a 20 amp breaker with a 16 amp load, while monitoring the wago with a laser temp monitor. Bet it gets hot ! You like the wagos - they are all yours !!!! Including the lever junk.
@@HowToHomeDIY The human factor/Ladder of inference will always take things to a questionable level. It's like baseball teams, people can get fanatical about their opinions. :P Personally, I enjoyed the video and now more aware of my choices depending on what I am doing- Have a good one and keep those videos coming!
I have always used wire nuts. I still believe the wire nut is the best option for a permanent (rarely disconnected) connection. I picked up a box of assorted WAGO's the other day. I am using them for prototyping/modifying an electrical system I am installing. It's all 24vac. These have saved me a ton of time over wire nuts and screw type terminal strips. I also have some timer boxes that need servicing on a occasional basis, There are multiple wire connections that need to be made in these boxes that have always been made with wire nuts. I just converted one such timer box over to WAGO's. It is now much neater and more easley serviced. I will still shy away from using WAGO's for line voltage circuits, I just trust wire nuts more.
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Have you tried the Wago 2273 and 773 series ? When it is about space, these are unbeatable. The drawback is that to remove a wire from them you just need to pull like hell on the wire to get them out. Also, they only take solid wire. But more compact you won't find ! And no risk of any lever to get caught anywhere, because there is no lever.
Love the new flexible wire nuts, they work extremely well. But the thing i love most about them is the incredible range of wire sizes and quantities they are compatible with. I've been using a bag of the exact ones he has in the video, and they really are capable of replacing all of the wire nut sizes smaller than the big red ones. A guy used to need a half dozen different sizes of wire nuts to cover the range of applications they're typically used for. Not only do these new ones replace most of the old sizes, I've found these new ones will even work to make reliable splices between itty bitty stranded wires and larger gauge solids. They will quickly and reliably let you splice a #22 stranded wire to a #14 solid, something nearly impossible to do with traditional wire nuts, impossible to do reliably of course. well not anymore! When i first saw a bag of these things on the shelf in Menards, I was skeptical, probably just another overpriced gimmick that overpromises but underdelivers, but nope, i was wrong. They're actually F.M. (f'n magic!) Only thing I don't like about em is that they're kinda expensive when compared to normal "not magic" ones... come on now, I just want the magic wire nuts for nothing, and chicks for free...
I really like the WAGO style. One thing I do after I get everything inserted and seated if group the wires together below the wago by an inch or so and use very small wire ties to secure the wires together. I cut off the tail of the wire tie. That helps eliminate the possibility of a wire coming out due a lever being accidentally lifted when tucking the WAGO in the box.
We use the WAGO 221 series as it covers 20-10AWG 221-612 (2 wire) 221-613 (3 wire) and 614 and 615 (4 and 5 wire respectively). I like them as they are a little larger to work with too.
I am no electrician but am doing electrical stuffs with my new home. IMO, I find that WAGOs are easier for hard-wired ceiling light fixtures as i might change them later down the road. It also easier to connect wires that has been cutting too short for wire nuts. Another advantage is 4+ wires connection, wing nuts are sometime too small. The con to WAGOs is that you do need to wrap the levers in electrical tape if you are using 221s. Wing nuts are better for hooking up water heaters, and any connection that has 3 wires or less. I think both wing nuts and WAGOs are great, just depend on the environment and circumstances.
I used wago and wago generic for many years without any issues. I ise them on high and low voltage systems. They make for a massive time savings in trouble shooting low voltage systems.
I agree with the comments that the 221 levers require care when folding the work back into place after the connection is made. But there are a couple of other things with the wago 221s that require good craftsmanship that no one has mentioned. The first thing is that for solid #12, you have to be careful that the stripped wire is not crowned (slightly bowed) before you insert it into the connector. If the wire is crowned, it can be difficult to get #12 solid to seat fully. For remodeling where #12 solid is involved, I always either strip new where the conductor is already flat, or use my needlenose or kleins to flatten any crown (probably left from previously being twisted into a wirenut). And I always make sure that the stripped wires are all buried right to the back of the connector after they are inserted and the levers fully closed. I first rotate the wago around so that I can see that the connectors are all buried. I then rotate it back so I can see that the levers are all locked down. For light fixtures, the crown may not be a common problem as many lighting circuits are thinner #14 and will seat a little easier, but they should still be flattened, the connection isn't really right if the solid wire is curved inside there. Tge 2nd comment is that if you have say a 5 conductor lever nut all locked in set to go and you then twist it more than one rotation (as if you were twisting a wire nut on multiple solid conductors) you WILL quickly generate enough force to start pulling the wires right out of the connector on the outsides! The wires are getting shorter faster due to being on the outside of the twist as the twisted wire bundle grows grow in thickness, and this generates a lot of force on the connections. If you don't believe this give it a try! Twisting the completed connection around just 180 degrees as mentioned above to check the connection or to point the lever in a safe direction is fine but if you twist the wires more after that half twist you are asking for trouble. Having said all of this, I love the 221s and feel sorry for people that won't try them. For some situations, e.g., small stranded vs larger solid, or even any stranded vs stranded, IMO they are FAR superior to wire nuts. I guarantee you I can pull any small stranded vs larger romex (typical light fixture connection) apart with almost no force, unless a zip tie or some tape wraps have been used as a strain relief an inch or two back from the connection. Also, this stuff about 22 stranded wire in a wire nut connection being OK together with larger solid wire is incomprehensible to me. When you put any force on 22 stranded (as in a twist), the conductors will just tear right apart. If you really have #22 (unlikely, as the smallest legal house wire is way larger than that, even signalling circuits are supposed to be #18 ga and larger, and most fixture wires will be 16 ga minimum) then you should be using a ferrule and then going into a box connection of some kind with that #22. And after that, you'd have to be careful because you can't use a ferrule in most types of connectors (although wago seemes to say they are OK for their connectors). But again, #22 isn't a building wire, so I don't know why people are talking about it here so much being joined to romex. The bottom line is that everything requires craftsmanship, there is no magic bullet. And IMO the lever nuts are the best choice for many situations. I do think wire nuts are fine for solid wires 12-14 where no stranded is involved , perhaps even preferable for connections that shouldn't ever have to be disturbed, such as splices where no device replacement or changes are contemplated.
I do low voltage 18g building automation wiring and the Ideal "lever nuts" are a game changer! The positive snap lock lever is far better than the WAGO loosey goosey levers which can get hung up in the wire raceways.
I am going be installing an automatic transfer switch in my travel trailer so I can have my inverter power coach while dry camping with the solar. I think the Ideal connectors would a better application due movement and vibration of trailer. Thanks for sharing.
Other than when you cram wires into a box to close lid when are the wires disturbed or moved that would cause an accidental tab being lifted up? Do wire nuts never loosen when cramming wires in a box?
@@scoops0406 They have been tested and approved by Underwriters Laboratory (UL) I don't know how long they have been around. I have been using them for about 18 years. Many trades people are reluctant to try anything new. They tired vanilla ice cream when they were 5 years old - and dog gone it - that's all they still eat 50 years later.
Am new to Wago's and in my first use adding one receptical the new junction box was in "hell" (crawl space) and when I checked the new receptical it showed a fault. Sure enough I had tripped open a lever and the wire was out. This was MY FAULT as was not aware of the pinch method or double check. I am sold on Wago and will not go back to wire nuts but I should have not assumed they are fool proof
Yes they can be used in 12v applications. Off the top of my head, the wago gel boxes may fit the scenarios you’re referencing. I personally don’t have much experience using them outside of the home.
When I was rewiring a whole house, I used whatever was bought which were the Ideals and WAGOS....about equal amounts of each. This is the first video I've seen that mentions the extra 'push' you need to secure the Ideals. And as I discovered, if you don't do that extra push, the wires CAN pull back out. Once I realized that, I thought the Ideals were the best device overall. But because of the ease in the WAGO levers flipping up and the extra push required to set the Ideals, I wrapped tape around them all.
I was walking down my street and I saw a guy who was installing an exterior wall sconce. He was trying to connect it up with wire nuts. He used one hand to hold the fixture, another hand to hold the wire nut, and a third hand to grab the wires, and a fourth hand to move the wires so their ends were aligned and could be simultaneously inserted into the wire nut. With lever nuts, that could have been accomplished with only two hands.
As a professional, I use both lever nuts and wire nuts. I use wire nuts when I expect typical loads to be more than 5 amps because the connection is stronger in a properly done wire nut. However, I'll use lever nuts for anything smaller than 5 amps because of ease of use.
I know it's your personal preference as the "man on the job", but the lever nuts should be good up to 20 amp loads (both are rated to 30 amps so 10 amps feels to me like a good safety derating margin). Anything higher than 20 amps, it makes sense to use wire nuts.
@Sembazuru normally your right. However, in my particular line of work, there are a LOT of motor loads. I derate them more because of the inrush current. I also work with 480v circuits, and I will only use wire nuts or connectors that are more robust with those.
Can the lever nuts be used with ALU wire? For example could you butt joint a aluminum wire to a copper wire using the lever nut butt joint you show there? Would save having to use that gooey compound on the joint when using wire nuts.
For old construction, you don't always have the option for a larger box. For new construction, use a bigger box if possible, then it doesn't matter what nut type you have.
I used the Ideal connectors for a light fixture recently and I liked them! But I secured them with electrical tape as you suggested for the WAGOs…. Overkill I know but I wanted to them to be locked in lol.
Normally you wouldn't want to splice 2 wires of different size together, but yeah. I had an led dimmer I had to install and the wire from the dimmer was something like 18 or 20 AWG. I used a wire nut anyways but a lever nut would have been ideal here (no pun intended lol).
Sorry about changing the subject however need your advice My AC on the home quit blowing cold air , I call a tech to work on it , he told me that the system don’t have any refrigerant, so I ask him how we fix this , he reply that the option was add refrigerant and add a leak seal to close any leaks that may be on the system, after he finish he said your system is ok now and was blowing cold air when he was there , however after 20 minute after he left the ac quit blowing cold air again ! I called him back and he said he was coming next day , never show up , I called several time however no one answered the phone . Aside from this un responsable tech what do you think the problem is with my ac ? Currently have a window unit until solve this issue ! Thank you
The wago are still better than the ideal. I've pulled solid wires right out of the ideal, but I do use them for stranded with no issues. The two major things the ideal have on wago is 1) Cheper and 2) they are available at Lowes. Like you said Wago has been around for a while now, and it's disappointing that they still have yet to make a deal with a big box retailer.
If you're doing maintance or renovations. wire nuts are a pita. Lifting a lever to add or remove a circuit is so much easier. Also 1000x easier to isolate live circuits in a wago and add later.
Years ago and my first encounter with WAGO Connectors in an existing installation and whereas a lighting fixture issue was determined to be arching within the WAGO. I have witnessed that a few times since. I'm not convinced and refuse to use them.
This video brought to you by big wirenut. All jokes aside, I prefer Wagos. They will also allow you to bend conductors easier in a tight box. Not worried about the lever coming loose, basic workmanship and it's a non issue. Wirenuts are fine and fast, but when it comes to troubleshooting, the lever nuts (in general) are the best to work with.
For me the Wagos are the winner because you can clearly see that your wire is connected properly. Maybe I'm wrong but from my feeling I also like it more that the Wagos are being locked after inserting the wire as on the other connector the connection relies on the preloaded spring busbar.
When Ideal first introduced these they were sending out free samples to trades people or anyone who asked for them. I managed to get some and they are good. I would not hesitate to use them.
We have both lever nuts at work I like the wago’s more we use them on lighting makes it easier to replace the drivers and power packs without having to turn off the power
We have a 9 year old house. About 6 months ago the 5 way switches in the hallway started acting funny, some switches would work some wouldn't. Long story short a wire nut had come off and shorted out. We had burnt wires in the breaker panel and a large bill for an electrician. I gave him wagos and said replace all wire nuts in all of these hallway boxes.
@@EricksonEtc and I think that is the point. Wire nuts may work well if installed correctly. I think with wago being clear you 100% of the time know if it is done correctly or not. There is no mystery if 1 of your 3 wires wasn't all the way in the nut or not. The house was done by a "professional installer" was not touched by me or a DIYer and failed.
@@bill-8794 think you are focusing on the wrong part. Ok 5 way is called 4 way, but the point is there were 5 switches controlling 1 light circuit. 1 of those wire nuts failed and caused burned wires in the electrical panel. I will try my luck with wago now.
I believe the wagos are less expensive here in Canada. Nice to see some competition. I had a wire pop out of one recently on my motorcycle. It was with stranded wire, if I recall correctly.
You have such a great little channel ... I got hooked on Wago's a long time ago & of course Ideal makes good products as well ... Thx for doing these vids
I like a lot of the features of the new Ideal lever nuts. However, the fact they don't use a clear plastic for the case of the lever nut is a deal killer. In good lighting conditions, you can see whether or not the wire has been properly inserted through Ideal's translucent, rather than clear, plastic. However, when installing, lighting is often far from perfect. That said, I'll never use a wire nut if using a lever nut is an option. For a DIYer like myself, it's simply too hard to know if the two or more wires have been properly connected inside the wire nut. That's a particular problem when connecting two different types (stranded and solid) or sizes of wire. Sometimes the wire nut seems to grab onto the insulation of the wire rather than the wire itself. When that happens, tugging on the wires gives you false confidence that you have a solid connection.
I like Wago!!! I like plug and play. I don't like the wire nuts, you can't see the connection inside the wire nut. Like you can kind of feel if its secure, but you can not see threw the metal and check if its secure.
Where lever nuts really hold their own is on boxes with short wires or were you're fighting for room but as stated cost you can't beat good old wire Nuts.
Its fun how us ppl love wire nuts. They are not accepted in electrical connections where i live, in denmark. But the size comparisent is not complete, when there is no mention of the mini wago's, wich we use when installing equipment. Just google wago 2273-203 for the 3 wire edition. Plus all the stuff they supply for DIN installment... And the 3wire edition is 1,5x1,5x0,5 cm... So considerable smaller than the wago's in the video...
What life expectancy do these plastic things have? The old screw in type connectors live inside a plastic case but font rely on plastic for the connection to still be ok even if the plastic breaks down. Genuinely interested, im no longer working but used to be a electronics tech and seen lots of different connection types over the years with varying failure rates.
Well, I see some practical application for Wago and such, but after 45 years of twisting nuts, I know my connections will not fail. I'm still a wire nut guy.
I've seen Quickfix JB3 and Connexbox carriers and junction boxes made specifically for wagos that they have over in the UK. Is there anything like that here in the US for either lever nut brand? Maybe they're not here because of certification issues...?
When you were comparing the 3M performance wire nut to the 5-port lever nuts I thought of an important question. Is that wire nut rated for 5 12AWG wires? If not, that wasn't a fair comparison.
As 4 me, I'll keep using Ideal winged wire nuts. And I always pree twist. I like the new Ideal lever connectors. In some applications, Like 5 gang light switches. I think they will work better than wire nuts. Tanks 4 all the great information Sir.
WAGO 2273 is the answer.. (also called Compact) they are superior in all points.. no professional electrician in Europe is using the WAGO 221/222. Those are only valid if you don't have solid wires, which isn't the case for most house installation..
WAGO shines with old work! This is OVERLOOKED in so many of these WAGO vs wire nut discussions! If you're working on a house in USA built before 1970 you're going to encounter short leads in boxes and worse yet, rubber and cloth insulated BX. The rubber often breaks when you try to un-twist a wire nut connections. Worse yet, either the wire or the rubber breaks EVERY TIME when you attempt to twist new wire nuts. BTW, I'm in the twist before nut camp, but NEVER with rubber BX. Even with plastic/poly insulation, prior to NEC 300.14, there might be only a tiny stub of wire that breaks when you attempt a proper pre-twist wire-nutting. Or a wire breaks when you un-twist, so you have tiny stub to connect. It's totally typical to use a 2x WAGO for a pigtail to a larger twisted wire-nut connection. This is why I now only use WAGO if I can with old work. PS, I don't endorse WAGO over Ideal Insure, I'm just saying lever connectors have big advantages for old work.
When space is tight, I can attach or detach a WAGO with one hand, even my left hand. And the WAGO connector technology works well in industrial situations with motion and vibration, where wire nuts are not a good choice.
The wirenut replacement would be the wago 2773 series. They only work with solid an 7 stranded wire and are difficult to remove, but the are half the price and size of the 221 series. The 221 is best when stranded wire is involves or the connection is intended to be serviced, like in a light fixture.
A disadvantage of the Ideal vs Wago is in the bottom side inspection on the free-end side. The Wago casing is clear so you can easily see that while the end of the insulation is inside the connector, it doesn't go all the way into the electrical connection part. In this video I couldn't see the insulation part of the wire clearly enough to easily verify that we didn't get the insulation inside the electrical connection part. I do like that the Ideal levers latch down though.
Wagos and wago boxes allow a certain number of wires before you can't fit any more This is extra safe And they should always be placed in a box But I'm in the UK where the rules are so much better 😁 Plus the wago comes in normal 1.0-4.0mm size and the bigger 6mm wire sizes
Okay, it is a wire nut and this is just another video for wire nuts. I've used both. When I doubt if a wire nut will work well or if I think that I'm going to have to dig back into the work soon I Wago. Otherwise the wire to wire contact of the wire nut is better. There was a video and the guy used a thermal camera. The Wago got hotter than the wire nut. I don't think that the difference was significant enough to not use wagos where they would have advantages.
There are wagos without levers. They avoid the lever problem and are also cheaper. They are much smaller but only single-use. You will not be able to push in a stranded wire even after crimping there you need the levers. Wile you cut off about 15mm every time, the rest of the wires are not twisted and mechanically stressed.
An interesting detail for the case you need to perform some work or troubleshooting on powered circuits: Wago can keep your live wire protected while you disconnect/add circuits. Removing a wire nut from a live wire would make me feel a "bit uncomfortable".
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So out of curiosity, which wire connector do you think is best? What are you using now? For convenience, there are links to all of them in the video description so you can check them out for yourself!
i like the Ideal. They work great. I prefer how the close compared to the wago.
I have been an EE and a licensed electrical contractor for 42 years.
I always twist first and have used Ideal “Tan” wire nuts (with “wings”) for most of those years and used the Ideal “Yellow” type wire nuts before switching.
For HVAC #18 or #16 solid copper and Fire Alarm / Automation Controls #18 /#16 / #14 solid copper, I always used different sizes of Ideal wire nuts (blue / orange / grey ) depending on size and number of wires to connect.
I have switched to the Ideal “InLine” lever connectors about 8 months ago and will never go back !
I even use 3 “port” connectors for much of our HVAC and thermostat installations, leaving one “port” empty.
It’s a great way to test and troubleshoot. (Using a small jumper of the same wire gauge).
Beats disassembling connections to test controls.
They are much better than Wago as far as the lever locking mechanism.
Thanks for the video.
Connecting stranded wire to solid, I'd use the Wago or the Ideal.
Wire nuts.
when i was doing my sparky training in the very late 80's i would have loved to have used wago's
but then we had to learn how to hard strip wires to the required lengths to double up and not go deep and all that stuff
the plethora of tools available these days means that almost anyone can do a job that took proper skills to learn to do back in the day
but it also makes life easier and less stresful when you've nicked a wire and then have to run an entire length again, twice, been there, done that, and then i put a drill through the same wire from the other side as i'd left it dangling before i made the final hole in the joist
wagos saved the day with their ease of use
One of the benefit of Wago and other lever nuts over the wing nuts is in rewiring a box. A twisted wing nut does just that, twists the wire. If you have to add a wire or remove one, you end up with a twisted wire that you have to try and straighten before it can be reused. It’s very hard to do when your wire doesn’t quite reach outside the box. Having a Wago means you can still connect it without the wire getting all bent and twisted. It also makes adding or removing a wire very easy.
Also, twisting and straightening a wire will work harden it making it more likely to break. This is a concern with wire nuts when doing rework (especially if you don't know how many times the wire has been twisted and straightened out already), not a concern with lever nuts.
As a diy guy I tinker and reconfigure stuff often. Most people may not need them but to me lever nuts are amazing
I'm never going back to wirenuts after using wagos. There are so many advantages of the lever design.
You can get the push-only ones which are smaller than the lever ones
@@davidperry4013 Yeah I used to use those. The wagos are so much more flexible though since you can remove the wires (even stranded) without having to strip more insulation.
My experience with Wagos are that they tend to be space hogs and are more expensive. Wire nuts are cheaper and cover more varieties of situations. Where Wagos do best is where serviceability is required.
@@ianbelletti6241 There are smaller wagos. 243 Micro is way better than wirenuts.
@@Weuffel not the variation or size I was talking about. Wagos are generally larger per number of wires they accept. Also, wire nuts tend to accept a much larger variety of wire groupings per size. Yes, you can get smaller Wagos for smaller wires. However, they are still very limited in application usage per unit. The ideal orange-blue wire nuts, for example, range from 22 AWG to 10 AWG and can connect up to four 12 AWG wires. Name a Wago with that kind of variety of acceptance. Wagos do have their place but generally they are best suited for maintenance and testing scenarios where quickly swapping connections is important.
The Orange Blue wire nut can not safely handle (5) #12 wires like the Wago can. - You would need the red/yellow version which is larger.
I really do enjoy working with lever nuts. Quicker and easier to make modifications, and you can re-use them.
I’m an electrician and love the 3 m wire nuts. I have been using them for 20 years.
Is time you are comming in to the 21 century, in europe we only use Wago connectors sinds the 80's .. never ever wire nuts anymore..
Much as I like the Wagos I had one open up when installing a recessed ceiling light. It was the only one that failed to light when we powered them on and it took less than a minute to find the loose wire, but I learned to be more careful when folding wires into the box.
Wrap electrical tape around the levers. Problem solved.
Personally, I've never had a friendly relationship with wire nuts, so I do like the WAGOs, except for price.
I do not recall that you commented on the number of wires you can combine in one of the newer wire nuts. This could be a big factor.
Thanks
You made a great educational video, I don’t understand why some comments are so blindly polarized on one or the other! You specifically give examples of who and why and when to use one over the other. I’m not an electrician and I’ve twisted hundreds of wire nuts and still prefer them overall, but there’s some occasions when the quick connects are so convenient that they warrant the higher price so I use both (90 wire nuts). Since quick connects are industry approved its great to have the choice depending on the job, we should be grateful for choices!
I first learned about WAGOs from one of your videos years ago. Over the years I’ve been involved in lots of wiring projects and the WAGO connector was a nice trick to add to the tool bag. I still mostly use wire nuts and save the lever connectors for difficult, temporary, fast, or mix media connections. When the wire nut is easy I go there first.
Yeah I agree with you on that one. Wire nuts are better for permanently splicing at most 3 wires, especially when dealing with things like daisy chained outlets. I know Wagos don't really have enough resistance to cause so much of a voltage drop, but still, if we can avoid certain power issues, why not.
For ballasts or light fixtures though, especially since they come with stranded wire, Wagos definitely shine here.
Agree about the Wago 221's. I was running a few accessory circuits in my Suburban and noticed the levers have a way of opening inadvertently if you're not careful. I tried a few of the Ideal connectors and didn't have this problem. Wago 222's have very firm levers that do not have the problem of the 221's. I'd recommend the Wago 222's.
Just beware that the 222s are not transparent, but do incorporate test ports.
The 222 is huge compared to the 221.
Just a heads up. You can also just push to connect with the wago connector as well. Excellent video and info. Thank you.
my whole reason for commenting, suprised to see this so far down. It´s one of the keypoints of using WAGO's
I discovered that lever flaw a while back. As a good practice, I tape around the Wagos. Yes its an extra step but I can feel better about install.
I started using the 3M wirenuts near 20 years ago in industrial, commercial and residential. I use them for almost everything. There are times when the WAGOs are better, so I use them. Each has their use in a project.
Fantastic review! Both the WAGO and IDEAL connectors are great. I've seen these used more and more and they are super helpful when hanging lighting fixtures. GREAT review and presentation! 👍👍👍
I’ve been using WAGOs for a long time especially after opening CB radios and finding someone used wire nuts and they had come off leaving the joint capable of touching the metal chassis. I also use them on 12v systems and 240v here in Australia.
As with anything you must strip the wire correctly and insert it correctly and then it won’t come out.
There very handy for wiring because if you suddenly realise you need another wire you just use another WAGO with more connections.
I just had to wire nut wires for my 12V transformer to reduce the number of wires going into the COM port and didn't even think to use my WAGO connectors! Doh
I recently wired my electrical system in my cargo conversion camper that I am building. The wago’s were great to work with as I could easily correct any mistakes I happened to make without have to cut wire. To me that is one of the best things with lever connectors.
I personally like the Wagos, especially in a crowded box, because they allow the wires to pivot, making stuffing the connection into the box much easier. I assume the same would be true for Ideals version.
This always makes me wonder how good the connection is.
@@AdrianBoyko why? Because you think you would think of a failure mode that they didn't and didn't test for?
@@VYR1985 Nope… Its just not intuitive that such a wiggly connection can be adequate.
Just used the 3M nuts on a big job. Fantastic, they grab way better than Ideal!
The only time that I have used Wago lever connectors is when I was adding electrical accessories on my Goldwing. Definitely taped those levers down. Was a clean look in very limited space, especially for my big hands.
Thanks for your video and comparison. In my country, Germany, wire nuts are not allowed to use. Tha wagos with the lever are only used if needed (connect stranded and solid wire), because they are expensive. For solid wires the wagos without lever are used. If rewireing is needed ( take out one wire and add another one) the wagos have an advantage.
yes, german. you can simply twist and pull the wires out of the wagos without lever. its quite easy.
lever wagos are mostly only used if connect stranded with solid by professionals. price is almost the same, no one care and the customer pay.
I LOVE wago's. This channel always promotes the 221 type. I learned they are inferior due to ease of lever flip up. Check out the 222 type. These have a grey body and orange levers, WHICH, DO, CLICK UP AND DOWN. In fact, the move from down to up sometimes is under so much pressure, I use a tool to flip up the levers.
Check out the Wago 222 type - These too come in all the multi wire and wide range of awg's too. What I like MOST about Wago's are the ease in accessing wires for later upgrades without need to further shorten wires each time, like is required when using wire nuts. Also, NO, ARC-ing. Combing a fixtures' tiny stranded wires with much larger, solid wire, house wiring using a wago rocks.
222 are much larger. FYI
IMHO, the most important feature of a connector is the amount of resistance measured after the connection is made. Less resistance creates less heat and voltage drop, and wire nuts have been demonstrated time and again to provide the best connection. Try it for yourself - same size and length conductors and measure the Ohms.
At my job I got my boss to start using the Ideal 5 port and two port for when we replace fast acting fume hood damper actuators. We have so many that wear out and having to untangle the wires in a wire nut to remove just one of them is a pain. Now we flip the lever, take out the one wire without disturbing the other 4 common wires, and swap in the new one. Especially when the actuator is in an awkward position in the ceiling. Never going back.
Here's two valid points about joints:
1) The number one failure in any electrical wiring is/are the splices usually in the wirenuts.
2) HOWEVER, when done PROPERLY the wirenut is still a far superior option vs a wago or press in splices. The wirenut is stronger and allows the splice to have more surface area which make a better connection.
If you're a home owner/DIYer and your working with more than a few conductors i would recommend using a wago vs a wirenut.
Wago is starte of the Art in europe and noone is using wirenuts.. Most countries they are banned or strongly regulated because of their high chance to fail hidden over time and cause fires.. Beside thats connectors are also mich faster and cheaper and easy to check or reconnect.
@@mikaamin517 I had wirenuts over 80 years old and no problems.
Wire nuts are illegal in most of the world due to the statistically higher instance of domestic fires caused by their use. Similarly, most countries require that earth wires are sleeved - for this you can buy yellow/green sleeving in any electrical store. For high current or compound junctions in excess of three wires, I typically go to secured block or fast-solder connectors, although these seem to be uncommon in the USA.
In Europe we seek to minimize or otherwise manage the number of compound junctions through design. For instance, lighting and switches are connected via star connectors blocks/buses secured in boxes in the attic/loft. Typically an insulated box will contain only one electrical signal - live, neutral or earth. This effectively eliminates any risk of electrical short circuit. You will never see light switch boxes in the UK serving a secondary role as a junction box for wiring!
We now use the full lever connectors in the UK - use of wago is trending down. I can appreciate that with lower operating voltages and higher currents, that wire nuts remain popular in the USA but at the very least these should be taped using non-flammable electrical tape (also widely unavailable in the USA). Overall I'd describe domestic USA wiring codes as somewhere between disappointing and dismal.
@@davidgapp1457 where is your evidence that fire start because of wire nuts?
@@danlux4954 Wire nuts were banned in Britain over 50 years ago (when they were using ceramic caps) and you have to dig through journals to see the evidence. Meaning you would have to take my word for the data. So rather than do that, I suggest you look up the fire statistics on internet for the UK versus the USA. In truth the difference in figures is due to more than just wire nuts. We've never had aluminum wiring in the UK and we operate at higher voltages with correspondingly lower currents. This also means the thermal stress on connections (I2R) is correspondingly lower whereas arc-over is higher due to 240V. We also use ring mains which, despite having disadvantages in terms of fault detection, also reduce thermal heating on wire (since we use max amperage wire on the ring). Altogether, it is hard to see why America made the decisions it made. That said, commercial wiring in the USA is better than domestic. I've worked in Australia, Asia, Africa, USA and UK so I probably have a unique perspective as I've worked in the industry almost exactly 50 years. Generally, I find tradespeople in the UK to amongst the best in the world whereas, unfortunately due to incredibly lax standards, the USA is the worst amongst western countries (but head and shoulders better than elsewhere). I live and work in the USA and I've seen more horror stories here than I care to recount. My advice to ANYONE in the USA is to have an independent inspector check the wiring before the walls are closed and again before moving in. I know for a fact this has prevented fires.
3M T&R+ by the gallon. I use wagos in locations I know I'm going to be separating connections frequently. but I don't use them for live work or corrosive environment work. they fail in less than a year in corrosive environments.
Good to know about the short-term success in a corrosive environment.
Just have to say, I really love Wago's. I've installed so many of these I've lost count and never had a failure. Yes, you do have the be careful with the levers and the Wago levers are actually easy to break if not cautious. The Ideal pieces do look very nice, I'll have to try them.
Is it right to compare a wire nut with a 5 port WAGO? Can you put 5 wires in that wire nut? It seems I heard that you should never put more than three wires in a wire nut, which means it would take TWO wire nuts for the same 5 wires of the WAGO. Plus the pig-tail wire. Unless you know something else.
I ultimately compared it to all of them. You can put 5 wires in a wire nut. Need to check the capacities though of each wire nut to know how many of what gauge it’s rated for though. There are capacities and best practices. They don’t always align.
@@HowToHomeDIY You are limited by the manufactures directions.
Indeed
Different sizes of wire nuts.
I've never had any problem with a wire nut, and just don't like the different metal in the level-type. I was always told that using different metals in a connector can lead to problems. So, two copper wires are going to make better connection if they are in a wire nut vs going copper to tin to copper, or whatever silver metal is in the level connector. If a DIY can't navigate a wire nut, they probably shouldn't be touching wires.
Four different cases in different locations lost power to printer outlets, cubicles, ceiling lights, etc. - in each case it was failed wagos - installed by electricians ! I cut the wagos out and replaced these wagos with " properly installed" wire nuts WITH WIRES TWISTED TOGETHER !!!!!
You like wagos so much -:you can have them !!!!!
I am going to test one on #12 wire, wired to 20 amp outlet on a 20 amp breaker with a 16 amp load, while monitoring the wago with a laser temp monitor. Bet it gets hot !
You like the wagos - they are all yours !!!! Including the lever junk.
I love how I have gotten the pro wire nut and pro lever nut people both so upset claiming I like one over the other 😂
@@HowToHomeDIY The human factor/Ladder of inference will always take things to a questionable level. It's like baseball teams, people can get fanatical about their opinions. :P Personally, I enjoyed the video and now more aware of my choices depending on what I am doing- Have a good one and keep those videos coming!
I have always used wire nuts. I still believe the wire nut is the best option for a permanent (rarely disconnected) connection.
I picked up a box of assorted WAGO's the other day. I am using them for prototyping/modifying an electrical system I am installing. It's all 24vac. These have saved me a ton of time over wire nuts and screw type terminal strips. I also have some timer boxes that need servicing on a occasional basis, There are multiple wire connections that need to be made in these boxes that have always been made with wire nuts. I just converted one such timer box over to WAGO's. It is now much neater and more easley serviced. I will still shy away from using WAGO's for line voltage circuits, I just trust wire nuts more.
Have you tried the Wago 2273 and 773 series ? When it is about space, these are unbeatable. The drawback is that to remove a wire from them you just need to pull like hell on the wire to get them out. Also, they only take solid wire. But more compact you won't find ! And no risk of any lever to get caught anywhere, because there is no lever.
Excellent video with some very good information and safety tips to follow when using these products . Thanks for sharing. 👍 Artie
Love the new flexible wire nuts, they work extremely well. But the thing i love most about them is the incredible range of wire sizes and quantities they are compatible with. I've been using a bag of the exact ones he has in the video, and they really are capable of replacing all of the wire nut sizes smaller than the big red ones. A guy used to need a half dozen different sizes of wire nuts to cover the range of applications they're typically used for. Not only do these new ones replace most of the old sizes, I've found these new ones will even work to make reliable splices between itty bitty stranded wires and larger gauge solids. They will quickly and reliably let you splice a #22 stranded wire to a #14 solid, something nearly impossible to do with traditional wire nuts, impossible to do reliably of course. well not anymore! When i first saw a bag of these things on the shelf in Menards, I was skeptical, probably just another overpriced gimmick that overpromises but underdelivers, but nope, i was wrong. They're actually F.M. (f'n magic!) Only thing I don't like about em is that they're kinda expensive when compared to normal "not magic" ones... come on now, I just want the magic wire nuts for nothing, and chicks for free...
I really like the WAGO style. One thing I do after I get everything inserted and seated if group the wires together below the wago by an inch or so and use very small wire ties to secure the wires together. I cut off the tail of the wire tie. That helps eliminate the possibility of a wire coming out due a lever being accidentally lifted when tucking the WAGO in the box.
I’ve used the ideals and they’re great.
How do the wago connectors compare with the ideal connectors for thermal conductivity and heat? Which one runs cooler?
We use the WAGO 221 series as it covers 20-10AWG 221-612 (2 wire) 221-613 (3 wire) and 614 and 615 (4 and 5 wire respectively). I like them as they are a little larger to work with too.
I am no electrician but am doing electrical stuffs with my new home.
IMO, I find that WAGOs are easier for hard-wired ceiling light fixtures as i might change them later down the road. It also easier to connect wires that has been cutting too short for wire nuts. Another advantage is 4+ wires connection, wing nuts are sometime too small. The con to WAGOs is that you do need to wrap the levers in electrical tape if you are using 221s.
Wing nuts are better for hooking up water heaters, and any connection that has 3 wires or less.
I think both wing nuts and WAGOs are great, just depend on the environment and circumstances.
Wire nuts will cap caulk tubes with some vinyl tape.
I used wago and wago generic for many years without any issues. I ise them on high and low voltage systems. They make for a massive time savings in trouble shooting low voltage systems.
Not to mention WAY easier to move around wires without breaking them. Doing that with twisted wires begs breakage.
I agree with the comments that the 221 levers require care when folding the work back into place after the connection is made.
But there are a couple of other things with the wago 221s that require good craftsmanship that no one has mentioned.
The first thing is that for solid #12, you have to be careful that the stripped wire is not crowned (slightly bowed) before you insert it into the connector. If the wire is crowned, it can be difficult to get #12 solid to seat fully. For remodeling where #12 solid is involved, I always either strip new where the conductor is already flat, or use my needlenose or kleins to flatten any crown (probably left from previously being twisted into a wirenut). And I always make sure that the stripped wires are all buried right to the back of the connector after they are inserted and the levers fully closed. I first rotate the wago around so that I can see that the connectors are all buried. I then rotate it back so I can see that the levers are all locked down. For light fixtures, the crown may not be a common problem as many lighting circuits are thinner #14 and will seat a little easier, but they should still be flattened, the connection isn't really right if the solid wire is curved inside there.
Tge 2nd comment is that if you have say a 5 conductor lever nut all locked in set to go and you then twist it more than one rotation (as if you were twisting a wire nut on multiple solid conductors) you WILL quickly generate enough force to start pulling the wires right out of the connector on the outsides! The wires are getting shorter faster due to being on the outside of the twist as the twisted wire bundle grows grow in thickness, and this generates a lot of force on the connections. If you don't believe this give it a try! Twisting the completed connection around just 180 degrees as mentioned above to check the connection or to point the lever in a safe direction is fine but if you twist the wires more after that half twist you are asking for trouble.
Having said all of this, I love the 221s and feel sorry for people that won't try them. For some situations, e.g., small stranded vs larger solid, or even any stranded vs stranded, IMO they are FAR superior to wire nuts. I guarantee you I can pull any small stranded vs larger romex (typical light fixture connection) apart with almost no force, unless a zip tie or some tape wraps have been used as a strain relief an inch or two back from the connection.
Also, this stuff about 22 stranded wire in a wire nut connection being OK together with larger solid wire is incomprehensible to me. When you put any force on 22 stranded (as in a twist), the conductors will just tear right apart. If you really have #22 (unlikely, as the smallest legal house wire is way larger than that, even signalling circuits are supposed to be #18 ga and larger, and most fixture wires will be 16 ga minimum) then you should be using a ferrule and then going into a box connection of some kind with that #22. And after that, you'd have to be careful because you can't use a ferrule in most types of connectors (although wago seemes to say they are OK for their connectors). But again, #22 isn't a building wire, so I don't know why people are talking about it here so much being joined to romex.
The bottom line is that everything requires craftsmanship, there is no magic bullet. And IMO the lever nuts are the best choice for many situations. I do think wire nuts are fine for solid wires 12-14 where no stranded is involved , perhaps even preferable for connections that shouldn't ever have to be disturbed, such as splices where no device replacement or changes are contemplated.
I do low voltage 18g building automation wiring and the Ideal "lever nuts" are a game changer! The positive snap lock lever is far better than the WAGO loosey goosey levers which can get hung up in the wire raceways.
Little tape around the Wago to prevent the lever from snagging on anything.
I am going be installing an automatic transfer switch in my travel trailer so I can have my inverter power coach while dry camping with the solar.
I think the Ideal connectors would a better application due movement and vibration of trailer.
Thanks for sharing.
Wago 👍👍 ; Ideal 👍 : Wire Nut 🤏 ; Video Quality / Information 👍👍👍.
Appreciate the feedback, glad you liked the video!
Other than when you cram wires into a box to close lid when are the wires disturbed or moved that would cause an accidental tab being lifted up? Do wire nuts never loosen when cramming wires in a box?
Tried and true wire nuts, been used for years!
There's that phrase "tried and true" - yep, heard it before too. (Those wire nuts never fail, right?) Never, ever, ever, right?
And how long do you think wagos have been around, would you suspect they might have been tested?
@@scoops0406 They have been tested and approved by Underwriters Laboratory (UL) I don't know how long they have been around. I have been using them for about 18 years. Many trades people are reluctant to try anything new. They tired vanilla ice cream when they were 5 years old - and dog gone it - that's all they still eat 50 years later.
Am new to Wago's and in my first use adding one receptical the new junction box was in "hell" (crawl space) and when I checked the new receptical it showed a fault. Sure enough I had tripped open a lever and the wire was out. This was MY FAULT as was not aware of the pinch method or double check. I am sold on Wago and will not go back to wire nuts but I should have not assumed they are fool proof
Can I use the lever nuts for 12V systems? Im not a fan of crimping. Probably no way to seal them in a marine environment
Yes they can be used in 12v applications. Off the top of my head, the wago gel boxes may fit the scenarios you’re referencing. I personally don’t have much experience using them outside of the home.
Google 'wago marine' for details.
When I was rewiring a whole house, I used whatever was bought which were the Ideals and WAGOS....about equal amounts of each. This is the first video I've seen that mentions the extra 'push' you need to secure the Ideals. And as I discovered, if you don't do that extra push, the wires CAN pull back out. Once I realized that, I thought the Ideals were the best device overall. But because of the ease in the WAGO levers flipping up and the extra push required to set the Ideals, I wrapped tape around them all.
22 is older design and more bulky. Really no benefit at all to the 221. You'd need to be extremely inept for the lever on either to pose a problem
I was walking down my street and I saw a guy who was installing an exterior wall sconce. He was trying to connect it up with wire nuts. He used one hand to hold the fixture, another hand to hold the wire nut, and a third hand to grab the wires, and a fourth hand to move the wires so their ends were aligned and could be simultaneously inserted into the wire nut. With lever nuts, that could have been accomplished with only two hands.
As a professional, I use both lever nuts and wire nuts. I use wire nuts when I expect typical loads to be more than 5 amps because the connection is stronger in a properly done wire nut. However, I'll use lever nuts for anything smaller than 5 amps because of ease of use.
I know it's your personal preference as the "man on the job", but the lever nuts should be good up to 20 amp loads (both are rated to 30 amps so 10 amps feels to me like a good safety derating margin). Anything higher than 20 amps, it makes sense to use wire nuts.
@Sembazuru normally your right. However, in my particular line of work, there are a LOT of motor loads. I derate them more because of the inrush current. I also work with 480v circuits, and I will only use wire nuts or connectors that are more robust with those.
@@VTdarkangel Yes, that all makes sense.
Can the lever nuts be used with ALU wire? For example could you butt joint a aluminum wire to a copper wire using the lever nut butt joint you show there? Would save having to use that gooey compound on the joint when using wire nuts.
Nice overview of the options. 👏👏👏
How are you going to compare the size of the orange blue wire nut to a 5 port connector when that won’t hold 5 wires (14 guage of course)
I compared it to all of them.
Considering the first part of the video where you are measuring the connectors, isn't it better to just use a bigger box if space is the issue ?
He should measure the Wago's using the side that the wire would go into as compared to a wirenut.
A bigger box isn’t always a practical option on old work.
For old construction, you don't always have the option for a larger box. For new construction, use a bigger box if possible, then it doesn't matter what nut type you have.
You don't change the box
I need to wire 2-12 gauge with 1- 10 gauge. I planned to use Wagos, but this is for my shop, and I read they are good for high draw connections....
I used the Ideal connectors for a light fixture recently and I liked them! But I secured them with electrical tape as you suggested for the WAGOs…. Overkill I know but I wanted to them to be locked in lol.
Wire nuts suck, especially if wire gauges are different.
Normally you wouldn't want to splice 2 wires of different size together, but yeah. I had an led dimmer I had to install and the wire from the dimmer was something like 18 or 20 AWG. I used a wire nut anyways but a lever nut would have been ideal here (no pun intended lol).
Sorry about changing the subject however need your advice
My AC on the home quit blowing cold air , I call a tech to work on it , he told me that the system don’t have any refrigerant, so I ask him how we fix this , he reply that the option was add refrigerant and add a leak seal to close any leaks that may be on the system, after he finish he said your system is ok now and was blowing cold air when he was there , however after 20 minute after he left the ac quit blowing cold air again ! I called him back and he said he was coming next day , never show up , I called several time however no one answered the phone . Aside from this un responsable tech what do you think the problem is with my ac ?
Currently have a window unit until solve this issue ! Thank you
What is the lifespan of plastic snap connectors? Plastic does disintegrate at some point.
Okay, what are wire nuts constructed of - 100 percent titanium?
I love wagos for fixtures and wire nuts for everything else.
The wago are still better than the ideal. I've pulled solid wires right out of the ideal, but I do use them for stranded with no issues. The two major things the ideal have on wago is 1) Cheper and 2) they are available at Lowes. Like you said Wago has been around for a while now, and it's disappointing that they still have yet to make a deal with a big box retailer.
I can finally get them at home depot. Took long enough, but they're there.
Nice - didn't realize the lever ones had ports for testing - informative clip, thanks!
If you're doing maintance or renovations. wire nuts are a pita. Lifting a lever to add or remove a circuit is so much easier. Also 1000x easier to isolate live circuits in a wago and add later.
Years ago and my first encounter with WAGO Connectors in an existing installation and whereas a lighting fixture issue was determined to be arching within the WAGO. I have witnessed that a few times since. I'm not convinced and refuse to use them.
This video brought to you by big wirenut.
All jokes aside, I prefer Wagos. They will also allow you to bend conductors easier in a tight box.
Not worried about the lever coming loose, basic workmanship and it's a non issue.
Wirenuts are fine and fast, but when it comes to troubleshooting, the lever nuts (in general) are the best to work with.
For me the Wagos are the winner because you can clearly see that your wire is connected properly. Maybe I'm wrong but from my feeling I also like it more that the Wagos are being locked after inserting the wire as on the other connector the connection relies on the preloaded spring busbar.
When Ideal first introduced these they were sending out free samples to trades people or anyone who asked for them. I managed to get some and they are good. I would not hesitate to use them.
We have both lever nuts at work I like the wago’s more we use them on lighting makes it easier to replace the drivers and power packs without having to turn off the power
We have a 9 year old house. About 6 months ago the 5 way switches in the hallway started acting funny, some switches would work some wouldn't. Long story short a wire nut had come off and shorted out. We had burnt wires in the breaker panel and a large bill for an electrician. I gave him wagos and said replace all wire nuts in all of these hallway boxes.
There is no such thing as a five way switch. Wire nuts have worked fine for decades and Wago will work too. Read directions.
This is not a connector issue, this is an installer issue.
@@EricksonEtc and I think that is the point. Wire nuts may work well if installed correctly. I think with wago being clear you 100% of the time know if it is done correctly or not. There is no mystery if 1 of your 3 wires wasn't all the way in the nut or not. The house was done by a "professional installer" was not touched by me or a DIYer and failed.
@@bill-8794 think you are focusing on the wrong part. Ok 5 way is called 4 way, but the point is there were 5 switches controlling 1 light circuit. 1 of those wire nuts failed and caused burned wires in the electrical panel. I will try my luck with wago now.
@@bill-8794 Maybe he meant the the lights were controlled by 5 switches. could be if in a hall way with 3 rooms and switches at the ends of the hall.
I've got a couple WAGO branded connectors in the toolbox. They don't have the levers is that an older design?
I believe the wagos are less expensive here in Canada. Nice to see some competition. I had a wire pop out of one recently on my motorcycle. It was with stranded wire, if I recall correctly.
You have such a great little channel ... I got hooked on Wago's a long time ago & of course Ideal makes good products as well ... Thx for doing these vids
I like a lot of the features of the new Ideal lever nuts. However, the fact they don't use a clear plastic for the case of the lever nut is a deal killer. In good lighting conditions, you can see whether or not the wire has been properly inserted through Ideal's translucent, rather than clear, plastic. However, when installing, lighting is often far from perfect.
That said, I'll never use a wire nut if using a lever nut is an option. For a DIYer like myself, it's simply too hard to know if the two or more wires have been properly connected inside the wire nut. That's a particular problem when connecting two different types (stranded and solid) or sizes of wire. Sometimes the wire nut seems to grab onto the insulation of the wire rather than the wire itself. When that happens, tugging on the wires gives you false confidence that you have a solid connection.
I like Wago!!! I like plug and play. I don't like the wire nuts, you can't see the connection inside the wire nut. Like you can kind of feel if its secure, but you can not see threw the metal and check if its secure.
Where lever nuts really hold their own is on boxes with short wires or were you're fighting for room but as stated cost you can't beat good old wire Nuts.
Its fun how us ppl love wire nuts.
They are not accepted in electrical connections where i live, in denmark.
But the size comparisent is not complete, when there is no mention of the mini wago's, wich we use when installing equipment.
Just google wago 2273-203 for the 3 wire edition.
Plus all the stuff they supply for DIN installment...
And the 3wire edition is 1,5x1,5x0,5 cm...
So considerable smaller than the wago's in the video...
What life expectancy do these plastic things have?
The old screw in type connectors live inside a plastic case but font rely on plastic for the connection to still be ok even if the plastic breaks down.
Genuinely interested, im no longer working but used to be a electronics tech and seen lots of different connection types over the years with varying failure rates.
Well, I see some practical application for Wago and such, but after 45 years of twisting nuts, I know my connections will not fail. I'm still a wire nut guy.
I've seen Quickfix JB3 and Connexbox carriers and junction boxes made specifically for wagos that they have over in the UK. Is there anything like that here in the US for either lever nut brand? Maybe they're not here because of certification issues...?
In UK you use the wago box to hold all the wires in place and stop the wago open then you tie wrap it to secure it shut.
When you were comparing the 3M performance wire nut to the 5-port lever nuts I thought of an important question. Is that wire nut rated for 5 12AWG wires? If not, that wasn't a fair comparison.
As 4 me, I'll keep using Ideal winged wire nuts. And I always pree twist.
I like the new Ideal lever connectors. In some applications, Like 5 gang light switches. I think they will work better than wire nuts. Tanks 4 all the great information Sir.
No pre twist, just fully twist as per directions. Then remove nut and you will see wires are twisted. Peace
WAGO 2273 is the answer.. (also called Compact)
they are superior in all points.. no professional electrician in Europe is using the WAGO 221/222. Those are only valid if you don't have solid wires, which isn't the case for most house installation..
WAGO shines with old work! This is OVERLOOKED in so many of these WAGO vs wire nut discussions!
If you're working on a house in USA built before 1970 you're going to encounter short leads in boxes and worse yet, rubber and cloth insulated BX. The rubber often breaks when you try to un-twist a wire nut connections. Worse yet, either the wire or the rubber breaks EVERY TIME when you attempt to twist new wire nuts. BTW, I'm in the twist before nut camp, but NEVER with rubber BX.
Even with plastic/poly insulation, prior to NEC 300.14, there might be only a tiny stub of wire that breaks when you attempt a proper pre-twist wire-nutting. Or a wire breaks when you un-twist, so you have tiny stub to connect. It's totally typical to use a 2x WAGO for a pigtail to a larger twisted wire-nut connection.
This is why I now only use WAGO if I can with old work.
PS, I don't endorse WAGO over Ideal Insure, I'm just saying lever connectors have big advantages for old work.
When space is tight, I can attach or detach a WAGO with one hand, even my left hand. And the WAGO connector technology works well in industrial situations with motion and vibration, where wire nuts are not a good choice.
According to the NEC cubic inches is the number to be considered fore devices in an electrical box. L x W is not a sufficient comparison.
The wirenut replacement would be the wago 2773 series. They only work with solid an 7 stranded wire and are difficult to remove, but the are half the price and size of the 221 series.
The 221 is best when stranded wire is involves or the connection is intended to be serviced, like in a light fixture.
I just use this on my Christmas tree; the family puppy chews through the wire. I clean-cut the wires, and it works perfectly.
A disadvantage of the Ideal vs Wago is in the bottom side inspection on the free-end side. The Wago casing is clear so you can easily see that while the end of the insulation is inside the connector, it doesn't go all the way into the electrical connection part. In this video I couldn't see the insulation part of the wire clearly enough to easily verify that we didn't get the insulation inside the electrical connection part. I do like that the Ideal levers latch down though.
If you twist the stranded wire in the lever lock it will easily pull out. Also if you pull on wires in a lever lock the lever can possibly unlatch.
Wagos and wago boxes allow a certain number of wires before you can't fit any more
This is extra safe
And they should always be placed in a box
But I'm in the UK where the rules are so much better 😁
Plus the wago comes in normal 1.0-4.0mm size and the bigger 6mm wire sizes
Safety is #1 priority IDEAL FTW!
Okay, it is a wire nut and this is just another video for wire nuts. I've used both. When I doubt if a wire nut will work well or if I think that I'm going to have to dig back into the work soon I Wago. Otherwise the wire to wire contact of the wire nut is better. There was a video and the guy used a thermal camera. The Wago got hotter than the wire nut. I don't think that the difference was significant enough to not use wagos where they would have advantages.
if you have solid wires you can use also Wago 2273 - those are much smaler as the 221 - and also just push to install ;)
Does anyone know why 4 port connections are not made? I see 2, 3, then 5's. For my application, 4 is what I need, so I guess I'd use a 5?
4 is a "wicked" number
Thanks for the video. Going to try the ideal line of lever nuts and twist wire nut. I always tape the wago levers.
There are wagos without levers. They avoid the lever problem and are also cheaper. They are much smaller but only single-use. You will not be able to push in a stranded wire even after crimping there you need the levers. Wile you cut off about 15mm every time, the rest of the wires are not twisted and mechanically stressed.
An interesting detail for the case you need to perform some work or troubleshooting on powered circuits: Wago can keep your live wire protected while you disconnect/add circuits. Removing a wire nut from a live wire would make me feel a "bit uncomfortable".
Great video as always my friend. 👍
Thank you John! Hope you are doing well!
@@HowToHomeDIY I doing Well Adam.. I hope you and your family are have a nice summer.
@BackyardMaine I’m really glad to hear that John. We are doing well but we are ready for fall and winter. It’s way too hot down here! 😂