So out of curiosity, which wire connector do you think is best? What are you using now? For convenience, there are links to all of them in the video description so you can check them out for yourself!
I have been an EE and a licensed electrical contractor for 42 years. I always twist first and have used Ideal “Tan” wire nuts (with “wings”) for most of those years and used the Ideal “Yellow” type wire nuts before switching. For HVAC #18 or #16 solid copper and Fire Alarm / Automation Controls #18 /#16 / #14 solid copper, I always used different sizes of Ideal wire nuts (blue / orange / grey ) depending on size and number of wires to connect. I have switched to the Ideal “InLine” lever connectors about 8 months ago and will never go back ! I even use 3 “port” connectors for much of our HVAC and thermostat installations, leaving one “port” empty. It’s a great way to test and troubleshoot. (Using a small jumper of the same wire gauge). Beats disassembling connections to test controls. They are much better than Wago as far as the lever locking mechanism. Thanks for the video.
when i was doing my sparky training in the very late 80's i would have loved to have used wago's but then we had to learn how to hard strip wires to the required lengths to double up and not go deep and all that stuff the plethora of tools available these days means that almost anyone can do a job that took proper skills to learn to do back in the day but it also makes life easier and less stresful when you've nicked a wire and then have to run an entire length again, twice, been there, done that, and then i put a drill through the same wire from the other side as i'd left it dangling before i made the final hole in the joist wagos saved the day with their ease of use
@@davidperry4013 Yeah I used to use those. The wagos are so much more flexible though since you can remove the wires (even stranded) without having to strip more insulation.
My experience with Wagos are that they tend to be space hogs and are more expensive. Wire nuts are cheaper and cover more varieties of situations. Where Wagos do best is where serviceability is required.
@@Weuffel not the variation or size I was talking about. Wagos are generally larger per number of wires they accept. Also, wire nuts tend to accept a much larger variety of wire groupings per size. Yes, you can get smaller Wagos for smaller wires. However, they are still very limited in application usage per unit. The ideal orange-blue wire nuts, for example, range from 22 AWG to 10 AWG and can connect up to four 12 AWG wires. Name a Wago with that kind of variety of acceptance. Wagos do have their place but generally they are best suited for maintenance and testing scenarios where quickly swapping connections is important.
The Orange Blue wire nut can not safely handle (5) #12 wires like the Wago can. - You would need the red/yellow version which is larger. I really do enjoy working with lever nuts. Quicker and easier to make modifications, and you can re-use them.
One of the benefit of Wago and other lever nuts over the wing nuts is in rewiring a box. A twisted wing nut does just that, twists the wire. If you have to add a wire or remove one, you end up with a twisted wire that you have to try and straighten before it can be reused. It’s very hard to do when your wire doesn’t quite reach outside the box. Having a Wago means you can still connect it without the wire getting all bent and twisted. It also makes adding or removing a wire very easy.
Also, twisting and straightening a wire will work harden it making it more likely to break. This is a concern with wire nuts when doing rework (especially if you don't know how many times the wire has been twisted and straightened out already), not a concern with lever nuts.
You might run into this "advantage" in 20 years. In the meantime, properly twisted cables plus a wire nut offer lower resistance and better thermals than a wago ever could.
You made a great educational video, I don’t understand why some comments are so blindly polarized on one or the other! You specifically give examples of who and why and when to use one over the other. I’m not an electrician and I’ve twisted hundreds of wire nuts and still prefer them overall, but there’s some occasions when the quick connects are so convenient that they warrant the higher price so I use both (90 wire nuts). Since quick connects are industry approved its great to have the choice depending on the job, we should be grateful for choices!
Much as I like the Wagos I had one open up when installing a recessed ceiling light. It was the only one that failed to light when we powered them on and it took less than a minute to find the loose wire, but I learned to be more careful when folding wires into the box.
Great comparison. Thank you. If I’m gonna take the time to tape my connections (as i always do), I’m gonna keep rocking old school wire nuts. I like the version of wire nuts w/ the protective shroud, but I’m still gonna tape ‘em. Like you stated twice: it’s the installer’s job (& responsibility) to ensure that all connections are sound. I’m not a Wago-hater, just my preference for wire nuts, and for knowing that my connections won’t be disrupted.
Nice job on this video. 40 years as an electrician. Love the O/B wire nut. But the clamping lever connectors are better for stranded to solid connections. Again love your channel. God bless.
I agree with this video, either of those lever nuts are way better than regular wire nuts. Not only are the levers more fool-proof, they're also easier to upgrade in the future. I've replaced lots of switches and outlets multiple times as technology has changed, and every time it's fast and easy because I can just open and close a lever nut, and I know the result will work. I never want to twist and untwist and straighten and have a wire fly out of a regular wire nut / marrette ever again.
Fantastic review! Both the WAGO and IDEAL connectors are great. I've seen these used more and more and they are super helpful when hanging lighting fixtures. GREAT review and presentation! 👍👍👍
I started using the 3M wirenuts near 20 years ago in industrial, commercial and residential. I use them for almost everything. There are times when the WAGOs are better, so I use them. Each has their use in a project.
I recently wired my electrical system in my cargo conversion camper that I am building. The wago’s were great to work with as I could easily correct any mistakes I happened to make without have to cut wire. To me that is one of the best things with lever connectors.
I came to the US about 30 years ago and saw the wire nuts. I never trusted them. I know I should, but I just felt it was just too easy to unscrew them. I had it too often that cables came out because someone had not properly put the nut on. Yes, you can twist the cables, but who has that sort of time. When I saw the wagos about 10 years ago I rejoiced. Being able to see from the outside whether a cable sits properly vs having to wiggle (and fail) gives me a lot of confidence. There was a good video on this channel some time ago that showed heat properties of the wagos and other connectors. They work.
Personally, I've never had a friendly relationship with wire nuts, so I do like the WAGOs, except for price. I do not recall that you commented on the number of wires you can combine in one of the newer wire nuts. This could be a big factor. Thanks
I bought a jar of 500 of the Ideal 2-port connectors on Amazon for about $26. Crazy good deal but they stopped selling that jar. Maybe the best deal they have now is a box of 150 for about $43.
I can't believe I just discovered WAGOs a few weeks ago. I used a few to swap out a dumb light switch for a smart light switch. There were 4 neutrals in one wire nut, and I needed to add a 5th for the smart switch. The 5-hole WAGO made it really easy - especially since the smart switch used stranded wire. I also splurged and bought a Klein Tools wire stripper that that separates the insulation automatically. Life is good when you are willing to give up some old ways of doing things sometimes.
I first learned about WAGOs from one of your videos years ago. Over the years I’ve been involved in lots of wiring projects and the WAGO connector was a nice trick to add to the tool bag. I still mostly use wire nuts and save the lever connectors for difficult, temporary, fast, or mix media connections. When the wire nut is easy I go there first.
Yeah I agree with you on that one. Wire nuts are better for permanently splicing at most 3 wires, especially when dealing with things like daisy chained outlets. I know Wagos don't really have enough resistance to cause so much of a voltage drop, but still, if we can avoid certain power issues, why not. For ballasts or light fixtures though, especially since they come with stranded wire, Wagos definitely shine here.
Agree about the Wago 221's. I was running a few accessory circuits in my Suburban and noticed the levers have a way of opening inadvertently if you're not careful. I tried a few of the Ideal connectors and didn't have this problem. Wago 222's have very firm levers that do not have the problem of the 221's. I'd recommend the Wago 222's.
WAGO doesn't specifically recommend pushing in solid wires into Lever Nuts. I've tried it and it doesn't push in as well as with Ideal's lever connector.
I was quickly convinced by Wago. Reconfigurable and reusable and reliable under very dusty circumstances. Tested that during sanding the plaster walls. Some also got accidentally embedded in plaster but the dishwasher could easily fix that.
I personally like the Wagos, especially in a crowded box, because they allow the wires to pivot, making stuffing the connection into the box much easier. I assume the same would be true for Ideals version.
3M T&R+ by the gallon. I use wagos in locations I know I'm going to be separating connections frequently. but I don't use them for live work or corrosive environment work. they fail in less than a year in corrosive environments.
I LOVE wago's. This channel always promotes the 221 type. I learned they are inferior due to ease of lever flip up. Check out the 222 type. These have a grey body and orange levers, WHICH, DO, CLICK UP AND DOWN. In fact, the move from down to up sometimes is under so much pressure, I use a tool to flip up the levers. Check out the Wago 222 type - These too come in all the multi wire and wide range of awg's too. What I like MOST about Wago's are the ease in accessing wires for later upgrades without need to further shorten wires each time, like is required when using wire nuts. Also, NO, ARC-ing. Combing a fixtures' tiny stranded wires with much larger, solid wire, house wiring using a wago rocks.
I’ve been using WAGOs for a long time especially after opening CB radios and finding someone used wire nuts and they had come off leaving the joint capable of touching the metal chassis. I also use them on 12v systems and 240v here in Australia. As with anything you must strip the wire correctly and insert it correctly and then it won’t come out. There very handy for wiring because if you suddenly realise you need another wire you just use another WAGO with more connections.
I just had to wire nut wires for my 12V transformer to reduce the number of wires going into the COM port and didn't even think to use my WAGO connectors! Doh
I have always used wire nuts. I still believe the wire nut is the best option for a permanent (rarely disconnected) connection. I picked up a box of assorted WAGO's the other day. I am using them for prototyping/modifying an electrical system I am installing. It's all 24vac. These have saved me a ton of time over wire nuts and screw type terminal strips. I also have some timer boxes that need servicing on a occasional basis, There are multiple wire connections that need to be made in these boxes that have always been made with wire nuts. I just converted one such timer box over to WAGO's. It is now much neater and more easley serviced. I will still shy away from using WAGO's for line voltage circuits, I just trust wire nuts more.
I have used both the Wago and Ideal lever nuts. I found the Ideal harder to push the wires into them but they are a step above the old twist connectors. I'm not going back. I have noticed that the lever on the Wago popping up sometimes usually in a crowded box. What I do in the case of a crowded box is to wrap some electrical tape around it.
At my job I got my boss to start using the Ideal 5 port and two port for when we replace fast acting fume hood damper actuators. We have so many that wear out and having to untangle the wires in a wire nut to remove just one of them is a pain. Now we flip the lever, take out the one wire without disturbing the other 4 common wires, and swap in the new one. Especially when the actuator is in an awkward position in the ceiling. Never going back.
Just have to say, I really love Wago's. I've installed so many of these I've lost count and never had a failure. Yes, you do have the be careful with the levers and the Wago levers are actually easy to break if not cautious. The Ideal pieces do look very nice, I'll have to try them.
Is it right to compare a wire nut with a 5 port WAGO? Can you put 5 wires in that wire nut? It seems I heard that you should never put more than three wires in a wire nut, which means it would take TWO wire nuts for the same 5 wires of the WAGO. Plus the pig-tail wire. Unless you know something else.
I ultimately compared it to all of them. You can put 5 wires in a wire nut. Need to check the capacities though of each wire nut to know how many of what gauge it’s rated for though. There are capacities and best practices. They don’t always align.
You have such a great little channel ... I got hooked on Wago's a long time ago & of course Ideal makes good products as well ... Thx for doing these vids
Thanks for your video and comparison. In my country, Germany, wire nuts are not allowed to use. Tha wagos with the lever are only used if needed (connect stranded and solid wire), because they are expensive. For solid wires the wagos without lever are used. If rewireing is needed ( take out one wire and add another one) the wagos have an advantage.
yes, german. you can simply twist and pull the wires out of the wagos without lever. its quite easy. lever wagos are mostly only used if connect stranded with solid by professionals. price is almost the same, no one care and the customer pay.
I don't think that's technically true. I found an article that mentioned that the market for twist-on style electrical connectors in Germany was about USD $0.4 billion in 2022. It's my understanding that modern plastic shell wire nuts with metal spirals are legal to use in Germany if they meet specific codes, but they're less common. I suppose a lot of it came from earlier ceramic wire nuts that didn't have a metal spiral, which had a tendency to break if overtightened and might not have created terribly secure connections. It does sound like the preference is for push-in or lever connectors, although I've heard screw-in blocks (aka "chocolate blocks") are also used throughout Europe. WAGO sells a lot of lever connectors in the US, but I think their market share of push-in connectors is low here. Ideal's In-Sure push-in connector is by far the biggest seller in the US.
Nice - didn't realize the lever ones had ports for testing - informative clip, thanks!
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Have you tried the Wago 2273 and 773 series ? When it is about space, these are unbeatable. The drawback is that to remove a wire from them you just need to pull like hell on the wire to get them out. Also, they only take solid wire. But more compact you won't find ! And no risk of any lever to get caught anywhere, because there is no lever.
The 2273 looks very similar to the Ideal Push-in Wire Connectors. There are some minor differences, such as a port in the orange base on the wire side of the Ideal - I assume it's for inserting a meter probe. I heard some people got good results re-using them by twisting while pulling the wire.
Normally you wouldn't want to splice 2 wires of different size together, but yeah. I had an led dimmer I had to install and the wire from the dimmer was something like 18 or 20 AWG. I used a wire nut anyways but a lever nut would have been ideal here (no pun intended lol).
Push in on solid strands. You can do the same with the Wago... 7:00 The leveral on the Wago point backwards when you push them into an enclosure, so you push them close, only when you would pull on them the lever could open. The blue ones, if you push them into somewhere the lever points forward and can catch much easier...
As a professional, I use both lever nuts and wire nuts. I use wire nuts when I expect typical loads to be more than 5 amps because the connection is stronger in a properly done wire nut. However, I'll use lever nuts for anything smaller than 5 amps because of ease of use.
I know it's your personal preference as the "man on the job", but the lever nuts should be good up to 20 amp loads (both are rated to 30 amps so 10 amps feels to me like a good safety derating margin). Anything higher than 20 amps, it makes sense to use wire nuts.
@Sembazuru normally your right. However, in my particular line of work, there are a LOT of motor loads. I derate them more because of the inrush current. I also work with 480v circuits, and I will only use wire nuts or connectors that are more robust with those.
Love the new flexible wire nuts, they work extremely well. But the thing i love most about them is the incredible range of wire sizes and quantities they are compatible with. I've been using a bag of the exact ones he has in the video, and they really are capable of replacing all of the wire nut sizes smaller than the big red ones. A guy used to need a half dozen different sizes of wire nuts to cover the range of applications they're typically used for. Not only do these new ones replace most of the old sizes, I've found these new ones will even work to make reliable splices between itty bitty stranded wires and larger gauge solids. They will quickly and reliably let you splice a #22 stranded wire to a #14 solid, something nearly impossible to do with traditional wire nuts, impossible to do reliably of course. well not anymore! When i first saw a bag of these things on the shelf in Menards, I was skeptical, probably just another overpriced gimmick that overpromises but underdelivers, but nope, i was wrong. They're actually F.M. (f'n magic!) Only thing I don't like about em is that they're kinda expensive when compared to normal "not magic" ones... come on now, I just want the magic wire nuts for nothing, and chicks for free...
I was walking down my street and I saw a guy who was installing an exterior wall sconce. He was trying to connect it up with wire nuts. He used one hand to hold the fixture, another hand to hold the wire nut, and a third hand to grab the wires, and a fourth hand to move the wires so their ends were aligned and could be simultaneously inserted into the wire nut. With lever nuts, that could have been accomplished with only two hands.
I agree with the comments that the 221 levers require care when folding the work back into place after the connection is made. But there are a couple of other things with the wago 221s that require good craftsmanship that no one has mentioned. The first thing is that for solid #12, you have to be careful that the stripped wire is not crowned (slightly bowed) before you insert it into the connector. If the wire is crowned, it can be difficult to get #12 solid to seat fully. For remodeling where #12 solid is involved, I always either strip new where the conductor is already flat, or use my needlenose or kleins to flatten any crown (probably left from previously being twisted into a wirenut). And I always make sure that the stripped wires are all buried right to the back of the connector after they are inserted and the levers fully closed. I first rotate the wago around so that I can see that the connectors are all buried. I then rotate it back so I can see that the levers are all locked down. For light fixtures, the crown may not be a common problem as many lighting circuits are thinner #14 and will seat a little easier, but they should still be flattened, the connection isn't really right if the solid wire is curved inside there. Tge 2nd comment is that if you have say a 5 conductor lever nut all locked in set to go and you then twist it more than one rotation (as if you were twisting a wire nut on multiple solid conductors) you WILL quickly generate enough force to start pulling the wires right out of the connector on the outsides! The wires are getting shorter faster due to being on the outside of the twist as the twisted wire bundle grows grow in thickness, and this generates a lot of force on the connections. If you don't believe this give it a try! Twisting the completed connection around just 180 degrees as mentioned above to check the connection or to point the lever in a safe direction is fine but if you twist the wires more after that half twist you are asking for trouble. Having said all of this, I love the 221s and feel sorry for people that won't try them. For some situations, e.g., small stranded vs larger solid, or even any stranded vs stranded, IMO they are FAR superior to wire nuts. I guarantee you I can pull any small stranded vs larger romex (typical light fixture connection) apart with almost no force, unless a zip tie or some tape wraps have been used as a strain relief an inch or two back from the connection. Also, this stuff about 22 stranded wire in a wire nut connection being OK together with larger solid wire is incomprehensible to me. When you put any force on 22 stranded (as in a twist), the conductors will just tear right apart. If you really have #22 (unlikely, as the smallest legal house wire is way larger than that, even signalling circuits are supposed to be #18 ga and larger, and most fixture wires will be 16 ga minimum) then you should be using a ferrule and then going into a box connection of some kind with that #22. And after that, you'd have to be careful because you can't use a ferrule in most types of connectors (although wago seemes to say they are OK for their connectors). But again, #22 isn't a building wire, so I don't know why people are talking about it here so much being joined to romex. The bottom line is that everything requires craftsmanship, there is no magic bullet. And IMO the lever nuts are the best choice for many situations. I do think wire nuts are fine for solid wires 12-14 where no stranded is involved , perhaps even preferable for connections that shouldn't ever have to be disturbed, such as splices where no device replacement or changes are contemplated.
yup it can be pretty annoying when a old solid wire is extremely twisted from a previous connection. It's a pain to get it perfectly straight sometimes, and if you can't get it at least 90 percent straight it doesn't go in properly, which then slows things down esp if you have a lot of connections to do. With new straight wires it takes a second, but yeah no one ever really talks about this part in any video about wagos.
I am no electrician but am doing electrical stuffs with my new home. IMO, I find that WAGOs are easier for hard-wired ceiling light fixtures as i might change them later down the road. It also easier to connect wires that has been cutting too short for wire nuts. Another advantage is 4+ wires connection, wing nuts are sometime too small. The con to WAGOs is that you do need to wrap the levers in electrical tape if you are using 221s. Wing nuts are better for hooking up water heaters, and any connection that has 3 wires or less. I think both wing nuts and WAGOs are great, just depend on the environment and circumstances.
I've seen Quickfix JB3 and Connexbox carriers and junction boxes made specifically for wagos that they have over in the UK. Is there anything like that here in the US for either lever nut brand? Maybe they're not here because of certification issues...?
The only time that I have used Wago lever connectors is when I was adding electrical accessories on my Goldwing. Definitely taped those levers down. Was a clean look in very limited space, especially for my big hands.
I've never had any problem with a wire nut, and just don't like the different metal in the level-type. I was always told that using different metals in a connector can lead to problems. So, two copper wires are going to make better connection if they are in a wire nut vs going copper to tin to copper, or whatever silver metal is in the level connector. If a DIY can't navigate a wire nut, they probably shouldn't be touching wires.
The connection is made with tinned copper with both the WAGO 221 and the Ideal In-Sure Lever. If you install an electrical outlet it's going from copper wire to a combination of different metals/alloys including nickel and brass.
My house was built in 1978 in Arizona and has aluminum wiring in all original places. (Copper has been used in renovations). Can I safely use lever connectors with aluminum? I am a conscientious DIY person. Re-wiring the house is cost prohibitive at this point. Thanks.
I really like the WAGO style. One thing I do after I get everything inserted and seated if group the wires together below the wago by an inch or so and use very small wire ties to secure the wires together. I cut off the tail of the wire tie. That helps eliminate the possibility of a wire coming out due a lever being accidentally lifted when tucking the WAGO in the box.
I do low voltage 18g building automation wiring and the Ideal "lever nuts" are a game changer! The positive snap lock lever is far better than the WAGO loosey goosey levers which can get hung up in the wire raceways.
Four different cases in different locations lost power to printer outlets, cubicles, ceiling lights, etc. - in each case it was failed wagos - installed by electricians ! I cut the wagos out and replaced these wagos with " properly installed" wire nuts WITH WIRES TWISTED TOGETHER !!!!! You like wagos so much -:you can have them !!!!! I am going to test one on #12 wire, wired to 20 amp outlet on a 20 amp breaker with a 16 amp load, while monitoring the wago with a laser temp monitor. Bet it gets hot ! You like the wagos - they are all yours !!!! Including the lever junk.
@@HowToHomeDIY The human factor/Ladder of inference will always take things to a questionable level. It's like baseball teams, people can get fanatical about their opinions. :P Personally, I enjoyed the video and now more aware of my choices depending on what I am doing- Have a good one and keep those videos coming!
Wagos are nice for people who have no idea how to properly pig tail two or more wires together before using the proper size wire nut (Marette). They become a better choice for stranded wires connections with solid conductors like Romex.
Can the lever nuts be used with ALU wire? For example could you butt joint a aluminum wire to a copper wire using the lever nut butt joint you show there? Would save having to use that gooey compound on the joint when using wire nuts.
We use the WAGO 221 series as it covers 20-10AWG 221-612 (2 wire) 221-613 (3 wire) and 614 and 615 (4 and 5 wire respectively). I like them as they are a little larger to work with too.
I only use Wagos when I think people are going to be in the box messing about like heavily used switch or outlet ect. Good day they are nice man I wish wago would send me some. Lol
@@scoops0406 They have been tested and approved by Underwriters Laboratory (UL) I don't know how long they have been around. I have been using them for about 18 years. Many trades people are reluctant to try anything new. They tired vanilla ice cream when they were 5 years old - and dog gone it - that's all they still eat 50 years later.
This dude is clearly clickbaiting and content making of of WAGO hate, such a weird carve out of youtube. Just admit a whole continent does electrical better than you and move on.
@@GTOVR4702 There are lots of irrational Wago haters out there. There are also haters of lots of other things/ideas/people whose basis for their hatred is baseless or just plain irrational
WAGO shines with old work! This is OVERLOOKED in so many of these WAGO vs wire nut discussions! If you're working on a house in USA built before 1970 you're going to encounter short leads in boxes and worse yet, rubber and cloth insulated BX. The rubber often breaks when you try to un-twist a wire nut connections. Worse yet, either the wire or the rubber breaks EVERY TIME when you attempt to twist new wire nuts. BTW, I'm in the twist before nut camp, but NEVER with rubber BX. Even with plastic/poly insulation, prior to NEC 300.14, there might be only a tiny stub of wire that breaks when you attempt a proper pre-twist wire-nutting. Or a wire breaks when you un-twist, so you have tiny stub to connect. It's totally typical to use a 2x WAGO for a pigtail to a larger twisted wire-nut connection. This is why I now only use WAGO if I can with old work. PS, I don't endorse WAGO over Ideal Insure, I'm just saying lever connectors have big advantages for old work.
When I was rewiring a whole house, I used whatever was bought which were the Ideals and WAGOS....about equal amounts of each. This is the first video I've seen that mentions the extra 'push' you need to secure the Ideals. And as I discovered, if you don't do that extra push, the wires CAN pull back out. Once I realized that, I thought the Ideals were the best device overall. But because of the ease in the WAGO levers flipping up and the extra push required to set the Ideals, I wrapped tape around them all.
IMHO, the most important feature of a connector is the amount of resistance measured after the connection is made. Less resistance creates less heat and voltage drop, and wire nuts have been demonstrated time and again to provide the best connection. Try it for yourself - same size and length conductors and measure the Ohms.
This video brought to you by big wirenut. All jokes aside, I prefer Wagos. They will also allow you to bend conductors easier in a tight box. Not worried about the lever coming loose, basic workmanship and it's a non issue. Wirenuts are fine and fast, but when it comes to troubleshooting, the lever nuts (in general) are the best to work with.
Years ago and my first encounter with WAGO Connectors in an existing installation and whereas a lighting fixture issue was determined to be arching within the WAGO. I have witnessed that a few times since. I'm not convinced and refuse to use them.
I am going be installing an automatic transfer switch in my travel trailer so I can have my inverter power coach while dry camping with the solar. I think the Ideal connectors would a better application due movement and vibration of trailer. Thanks for sharing.
For old construction, you don't always have the option for a larger box. For new construction, use a bigger box if possible, then it doesn't matter what nut type you have.
The problem with Wagos, as I have seen them in factory equipment made overseas, is that when there is high current the spring contacts will lose their tension. That then causes them to heat up. I won't use them for that reason. I have seen too many of those clear windows turn brown, black, or get melted.
I used the Ideal connectors for a light fixture recently and I liked them! But I secured them with electrical tape as you suggested for the WAGOs…. Overkill I know but I wanted to them to be locked in lol.
The Wago has been around a while and I have used many. I don't like how easy the levers will flip open, so I put a wrap or 2 of tape around them. I have only used the Ideal a couple of times. I was surprised how much I liked them. I have expressed my concerns to Wago and have been looking for a little change. My biggest concern is that consumers will try to save a buck and use the (push in only) 2773 series.
I have read that there are two types of WAGO 221, one that can handle wires from 28g to 12g and another that can handle 20g to 10 g. I would like the 20g - 10g best but Im not sure what a read was true???
I believe the wagos are less expensive here in Canada. Nice to see some competition. I had a wire pop out of one recently on my motorcycle. It was with stranded wire, if I recall correctly.
You're a little late to the party! We've been using the 3M wirenuts in the field now for about, oh, 15 years! They come in various sizes, like the large blue/gray that took the place of the individual blue and gray ones, the medium red/yellow, which took the place of the individual red and yellow ones, the orange/blue ones, that took the place of the individual orange and small blue ones, etc, etc.
If you're doing maintance or renovations. wire nuts are a pita. Lifting a lever to add or remove a circuit is so much easier. Also 1000x easier to isolate live circuits in a wago and add later.
For me the Wagos are the winner because you can clearly see that your wire is connected properly. Maybe I'm wrong but from my feeling I also like it more that the Wagos are being locked after inserting the wire as on the other connector the connection relies on the preloaded spring busbar.
WAGO 2273 is the answer.. (also called Compact) they are superior in all points.. no professional electrician in Europe is using the WAGO 221/222. Those are only valid if you don't have solid wires, which isn't the case for most house installation..
Where lever nuts really hold their own is on boxes with short wires or were you're fighting for room but as stated cost you can't beat good old wire Nuts.
Yes they can be used in 12v applications. Off the top of my head, the wago gel boxes may fit the scenarios you’re referencing. I personally don’t have much experience using them outside of the home.
The wago are still better than the ideal. I've pulled solid wires right out of the ideal, but I do use them for stranded with no issues. The two major things the ideal have on wago is 1) Cheper and 2) they are available at Lowes. Like you said Wago has been around for a while now, and it's disappointing that they still have yet to make a deal with a big box retailer.
When Ideal first introduced these they were sending out free samples to trades people or anyone who asked for them. I managed to get some and they are good. I would not hesitate to use them.
Am new to Wago's and in my first use adding one receptical the new junction box was in "hell" (crawl space) and when I checked the new receptical it showed a fault. Sure enough I had tripped open a lever and the wire was out. This was MY FAULT as was not aware of the pinch method or double check. I am sold on Wago and will not go back to wire nuts but I should have not assumed they are fool proof
What life expectancy do these plastic things have? The old screw in type connectors live inside a plastic case but font rely on plastic for the connection to still be ok even if the plastic breaks down. Genuinely interested, im no longer working but used to be a electronics tech and seen lots of different connection types over the years with varying failure rates.
@@HowToHomeDIY It felt like you were saying the wire-nut was always better if you were space constrained. There was no mention of how many wires could fit in it compared to the others.
@AlanW because it was until you get to the 2 port wago. The 3M is capable of 4 #14 wires. Wago and Ideal don’t make 4 port lever connectors so you have to use a 5 port, hence the comparison.
I like the ability to get more wires I to or onto a breaker using the wago connectors...But I'm not gonna throw away butt connectors for connecting simple wires in a light switch or outlet box that's nuts 😄
I like a lot of the features of the new Ideal lever nuts. However, the fact they don't use a clear plastic for the case of the lever nut is a deal killer. In good lighting conditions, you can see whether or not the wire has been properly inserted through Ideal's translucent, rather than clear, plastic. However, when installing, lighting is often far from perfect. That said, I'll never use a wire nut if using a lever nut is an option. For a DIYer like myself, it's simply too hard to know if the two or more wires have been properly connected inside the wire nut. That's a particular problem when connecting two different types (stranded and solid) or sizes of wire. Sometimes the wire nut seems to grab onto the insulation of the wire rather than the wire itself. When that happens, tugging on the wires gives you false confidence that you have a solid connection.
Okay, it is a wire nut and this is just another video for wire nuts. I've used both. When I doubt if a wire nut will work well or if I think that I'm going to have to dig back into the work soon I Wago. Otherwise the wire to wire contact of the wire nut is better. There was a video and the guy used a thermal camera. The Wago got hotter than the wire nut. I don't think that the difference was significant enough to not use wagos where they would have advantages.
So out of curiosity, which wire connector do you think is best? What are you using now? For convenience, there are links to all of them in the video description so you can check them out for yourself!
i like the Ideal. They work great. I prefer how the close compared to the wago.
I have been an EE and a licensed electrical contractor for 42 years.
I always twist first and have used Ideal “Tan” wire nuts (with “wings”) for most of those years and used the Ideal “Yellow” type wire nuts before switching.
For HVAC #18 or #16 solid copper and Fire Alarm / Automation Controls #18 /#16 / #14 solid copper, I always used different sizes of Ideal wire nuts (blue / orange / grey ) depending on size and number of wires to connect.
I have switched to the Ideal “InLine” lever connectors about 8 months ago and will never go back !
I even use 3 “port” connectors for much of our HVAC and thermostat installations, leaving one “port” empty.
It’s a great way to test and troubleshoot. (Using a small jumper of the same wire gauge).
Beats disassembling connections to test controls.
They are much better than Wago as far as the lever locking mechanism.
Thanks for the video.
Connecting stranded wire to solid, I'd use the Wago or the Ideal.
Wire nuts.
when i was doing my sparky training in the very late 80's i would have loved to have used wago's
but then we had to learn how to hard strip wires to the required lengths to double up and not go deep and all that stuff
the plethora of tools available these days means that almost anyone can do a job that took proper skills to learn to do back in the day
but it also makes life easier and less stresful when you've nicked a wire and then have to run an entire length again, twice, been there, done that, and then i put a drill through the same wire from the other side as i'd left it dangling before i made the final hole in the joist
wagos saved the day with their ease of use
I'm never going back to wirenuts after using wagos. There are so many advantages of the lever design.
You can get the push-only ones which are smaller than the lever ones
@@davidperry4013 Yeah I used to use those. The wagos are so much more flexible though since you can remove the wires (even stranded) without having to strip more insulation.
My experience with Wagos are that they tend to be space hogs and are more expensive. Wire nuts are cheaper and cover more varieties of situations. Where Wagos do best is where serviceability is required.
@@ianbelletti6241 There are smaller wagos. 243 Micro is way better than wirenuts.
@@Weuffel not the variation or size I was talking about. Wagos are generally larger per number of wires they accept. Also, wire nuts tend to accept a much larger variety of wire groupings per size. Yes, you can get smaller Wagos for smaller wires. However, they are still very limited in application usage per unit. The ideal orange-blue wire nuts, for example, range from 22 AWG to 10 AWG and can connect up to four 12 AWG wires. Name a Wago with that kind of variety of acceptance. Wagos do have their place but generally they are best suited for maintenance and testing scenarios where quickly swapping connections is important.
The Orange Blue wire nut can not safely handle (5) #12 wires like the Wago can. - You would need the red/yellow version which is larger.
I really do enjoy working with lever nuts. Quicker and easier to make modifications, and you can re-use them.
One of the benefit of Wago and other lever nuts over the wing nuts is in rewiring a box. A twisted wing nut does just that, twists the wire. If you have to add a wire or remove one, you end up with a twisted wire that you have to try and straighten before it can be reused. It’s very hard to do when your wire doesn’t quite reach outside the box. Having a Wago means you can still connect it without the wire getting all bent and twisted. It also makes adding or removing a wire very easy.
Also, twisting and straightening a wire will work harden it making it more likely to break. This is a concern with wire nuts when doing rework (especially if you don't know how many times the wire has been twisted and straightened out already), not a concern with lever nuts.
As a diy guy I tinker and reconfigure stuff often. Most people may not need them but to me lever nuts are amazing
You might run into this "advantage" in 20 years. In the meantime, properly twisted cables plus a wire nut offer lower resistance and better thermals than a wago ever could.
@@lazm3518 Agree! Pre-twist and use a 3M connector. You'll never revisit that splice.
You made a great educational video, I don’t understand why some comments are so blindly polarized on one or the other! You specifically give examples of who and why and when to use one over the other. I’m not an electrician and I’ve twisted hundreds of wire nuts and still prefer them overall, but there’s some occasions when the quick connects are so convenient that they warrant the higher price so I use both (90 wire nuts). Since quick connects are industry approved its great to have the choice depending on the job, we should be grateful for choices!
Much as I like the Wagos I had one open up when installing a recessed ceiling light. It was the only one that failed to light when we powered them on and it took less than a minute to find the loose wire, but I learned to be more careful when folding wires into the box.
Wrap electrical tape around the levers. Problem solved.
To me, that's the one issue in the design. The lever should have a slight "snap" to close and open..
Great comparison. Thank you. If I’m gonna take the time to tape my connections (as i always do), I’m gonna keep rocking old school wire nuts. I like the version of wire nuts w/ the protective shroud, but I’m still gonna tape ‘em. Like you stated twice: it’s the installer’s job (& responsibility) to ensure that all connections are sound. I’m not a Wago-hater, just my preference for wire nuts, and for knowing that my connections won’t be disrupted.
Nice job on this video. 40 years as an electrician. Love the O/B wire nut. But the clamping lever connectors are better for stranded to solid connections. Again love your channel. God bless.
I agree with this video, either of those lever nuts are way better than regular wire nuts. Not only are the levers more fool-proof, they're also easier to upgrade in the future. I've replaced lots of switches and outlets multiple times as technology has changed, and every time it's fast and easy because I can just open and close a lever nut, and I know the result will work. I never want to twist and untwist and straighten and have a wire fly out of a regular wire nut / marrette ever again.
Fantastic review! Both the WAGO and IDEAL connectors are great. I've seen these used more and more and they are super helpful when hanging lighting fixtures. GREAT review and presentation! 👍👍👍
I started using the 3M wirenuts near 20 years ago in industrial, commercial and residential. I use them for almost everything. There are times when the WAGOs are better, so I use them. Each has their use in a project.
I discovered that lever flaw a while back. As a good practice, I tape around the Wagos. Yes its an extra step but I can feel better about install.
Why not just use a properly twisted pair of wires plus a wire nut?
I’m an electrician and love the 3 m wire nuts. I have been using them for 20 years.
Is time you are comming in to the 21 century, in europe we only use Wago connectors sinds the 80's .. never ever wire nuts anymore..
I have been using my oxy-acetylene torch to weld steel for almost 30 years… Screw those mig / tig machines, who wants to use those to weld! /s
Agree. 3M products have been a standard in wiring for decades. Outstanding product!
3 m is nice
Properly twisted wires plus a 3m wire nuts are peak thermal performance.
I recently wired my electrical system in my cargo conversion camper that I am building. The wago’s were great to work with as I could easily correct any mistakes I happened to make without have to cut wire. To me that is one of the best things with lever connectors.
I came to the US about 30 years ago and saw the wire nuts. I never trusted them. I know I should, but I just felt it was just too easy to unscrew them. I had it too often that cables came out because someone had not properly put the nut on. Yes, you can twist the cables, but who has that sort of time.
When I saw the wagos about 10 years ago I rejoiced. Being able to see from the outside whether a cable sits properly vs having to wiggle (and fail) gives me a lot of confidence.
There was a good video on this channel some time ago that showed heat properties of the wagos and other connectors. They work.
Personally, I've never had a friendly relationship with wire nuts, so I do like the WAGOs, except for price.
I do not recall that you commented on the number of wires you can combine in one of the newer wire nuts. This could be a big factor.
Thanks
I bought a jar of 500 of the Ideal 2-port connectors on Amazon for about $26. Crazy good deal but they stopped selling that jar. Maybe the best deal they have now is a box of 150 for about $43.
I can't believe I just discovered WAGOs a few weeks ago. I used a few to swap out a dumb light switch for a smart light switch. There were 4 neutrals in one wire nut, and I needed to add a 5th for the smart switch. The 5-hole WAGO made it really easy - especially since the smart switch used stranded wire. I also splurged and bought a Klein Tools wire stripper that that separates the insulation automatically. Life is good when you are willing to give up some old ways of doing things sometimes.
I first learned about WAGOs from one of your videos years ago. Over the years I’ve been involved in lots of wiring projects and the WAGO connector was a nice trick to add to the tool bag. I still mostly use wire nuts and save the lever connectors for difficult, temporary, fast, or mix media connections. When the wire nut is easy I go there first.
Yeah I agree with you on that one. Wire nuts are better for permanently splicing at most 3 wires, especially when dealing with things like daisy chained outlets. I know Wagos don't really have enough resistance to cause so much of a voltage drop, but still, if we can avoid certain power issues, why not.
For ballasts or light fixtures though, especially since they come with stranded wire, Wagos definitely shine here.
Agree about the Wago 221's. I was running a few accessory circuits in my Suburban and noticed the levers have a way of opening inadvertently if you're not careful. I tried a few of the Ideal connectors and didn't have this problem. Wago 222's have very firm levers that do not have the problem of the 221's. I'd recommend the Wago 222's.
Just beware that the 222s are not transparent, but do incorporate test ports.
The 222 is huge compared to the 221.
Wago 👍👍 ; Ideal 👍 : Wire Nut 🤏 ; Video Quality / Information 👍👍👍.
Appreciate the feedback, glad you liked the video!
Just a heads up. You can also just push to connect with the wago connector as well. Excellent video and info. Thank you.
my whole reason for commenting, suprised to see this so far down. It´s one of the keypoints of using WAGO's
WAGO doesn't specifically recommend pushing in solid wires into Lever Nuts. I've tried it and it doesn't push in as well as with Ideal's lever connector.
I was quickly convinced by Wago. Reconfigurable and reusable and reliable under very dusty circumstances. Tested that during sanding the plaster walls. Some also got accidentally embedded in plaster but the dishwasher could easily fix that.
I personally like the Wagos, especially in a crowded box, because they allow the wires to pivot, making stuffing the connection into the box much easier. I assume the same would be true for Ideals version.
This always makes me wonder how good the connection is.
@@AdrianBoyko why? Because you think you would think of a failure mode that they didn't and didn't test for?
@@VYR1985 Nope… Its just not intuitive that such a wiggly connection can be adequate.
Excellent video with some very good information and safety tips to follow when using these products . Thanks for sharing. 👍 Artie
3M T&R+ by the gallon. I use wagos in locations I know I'm going to be separating connections frequently. but I don't use them for live work or corrosive environment work. they fail in less than a year in corrosive environments.
Good to know about the short-term success in a corrosive environment.
Don't they have gel boxes for that sort of use?
I LOVE wago's. This channel always promotes the 221 type. I learned they are inferior due to ease of lever flip up. Check out the 222 type. These have a grey body and orange levers, WHICH, DO, CLICK UP AND DOWN. In fact, the move from down to up sometimes is under so much pressure, I use a tool to flip up the levers.
Check out the Wago 222 type - These too come in all the multi wire and wide range of awg's too. What I like MOST about Wago's are the ease in accessing wires for later upgrades without need to further shorten wires each time, like is required when using wire nuts. Also, NO, ARC-ing. Combing a fixtures' tiny stranded wires with much larger, solid wire, house wiring using a wago rocks.
222 are much larger. FYI
I’ve been using WAGOs for a long time especially after opening CB radios and finding someone used wire nuts and they had come off leaving the joint capable of touching the metal chassis. I also use them on 12v systems and 240v here in Australia.
As with anything you must strip the wire correctly and insert it correctly and then it won’t come out.
There very handy for wiring because if you suddenly realise you need another wire you just use another WAGO with more connections.
I just had to wire nut wires for my 12V transformer to reduce the number of wires going into the COM port and didn't even think to use my WAGO connectors! Doh
I have always used wire nuts. I still believe the wire nut is the best option for a permanent (rarely disconnected) connection.
I picked up a box of assorted WAGO's the other day. I am using them for prototyping/modifying an electrical system I am installing. It's all 24vac. These have saved me a ton of time over wire nuts and screw type terminal strips. I also have some timer boxes that need servicing on a occasional basis, There are multiple wire connections that need to be made in these boxes that have always been made with wire nuts. I just converted one such timer box over to WAGO's. It is now much neater and more easley serviced. I will still shy away from using WAGO's for line voltage circuits, I just trust wire nuts more.
I have used both the Wago and Ideal lever nuts. I found the Ideal harder to push the wires into them but they are a step above the old twist connectors. I'm not going back. I have noticed that the lever on the Wago popping up sometimes usually in a crowded box. What I do in the case of a crowded box is to wrap some electrical tape around it.
Just used the 3M nuts on a big job. Fantastic, they grab way better than Ideal!
At my job I got my boss to start using the Ideal 5 port and two port for when we replace fast acting fume hood damper actuators. We have so many that wear out and having to untangle the wires in a wire nut to remove just one of them is a pain. Now we flip the lever, take out the one wire without disturbing the other 4 common wires, and swap in the new one. Especially when the actuator is in an awkward position in the ceiling. Never going back.
Just have to say, I really love Wago's. I've installed so many of these I've lost count and never had a failure. Yes, you do have the be careful with the levers and the Wago levers are actually easy to break if not cautious. The Ideal pieces do look very nice, I'll have to try them.
Is it right to compare a wire nut with a 5 port WAGO? Can you put 5 wires in that wire nut? It seems I heard that you should never put more than three wires in a wire nut, which means it would take TWO wire nuts for the same 5 wires of the WAGO. Plus the pig-tail wire. Unless you know something else.
I ultimately compared it to all of them. You can put 5 wires in a wire nut. Need to check the capacities though of each wire nut to know how many of what gauge it’s rated for though. There are capacities and best practices. They don’t always align.
@@HowToHomeDIY You are limited by the manufactures directions.
Indeed
Different sizes of wire nuts.
I’ve used the ideals and they’re great.
You have such a great little channel ... I got hooked on Wago's a long time ago & of course Ideal makes good products as well ... Thx for doing these vids
Thanks for your video and comparison. In my country, Germany, wire nuts are not allowed to use. Tha wagos with the lever are only used if needed (connect stranded and solid wire), because they are expensive. For solid wires the wagos without lever are used. If rewireing is needed ( take out one wire and add another one) the wagos have an advantage.
yes, german. you can simply twist and pull the wires out of the wagos without lever. its quite easy.
lever wagos are mostly only used if connect stranded with solid by professionals. price is almost the same, no one care and the customer pay.
I don't think that's technically true. I found an article that mentioned that the market for twist-on style electrical connectors in Germany was about USD $0.4 billion in 2022. It's my understanding that modern plastic shell wire nuts with metal spirals are legal to use in Germany if they meet specific codes, but they're less common. I suppose a lot of it came from earlier ceramic wire nuts that didn't have a metal spiral, which had a tendency to break if overtightened and might not have created terribly secure connections.
It does sound like the preference is for push-in or lever connectors, although I've heard screw-in blocks (aka "chocolate blocks") are also used throughout Europe.
WAGO sells a lot of lever connectors in the US, but I think their market share of push-in connectors is low here. Ideal's In-Sure push-in connector is by far the biggest seller in the US.
Nice - didn't realize the lever ones had ports for testing - informative clip, thanks!
Have you tried the Wago 2273 and 773 series ? When it is about space, these are unbeatable. The drawback is that to remove a wire from them you just need to pull like hell on the wire to get them out. Also, they only take solid wire. But more compact you won't find ! And no risk of any lever to get caught anywhere, because there is no lever.
The 2273 looks very similar to the Ideal Push-in Wire Connectors. There are some minor differences, such as a port in the orange base on the wire side of the Ideal - I assume it's for inserting a meter probe. I heard some people got good results re-using them by twisting while pulling the wire.
Nice overview of the options. 👏👏👏
Wire nuts suck, especially if wire gauges are different.
Normally you wouldn't want to splice 2 wires of different size together, but yeah. I had an led dimmer I had to install and the wire from the dimmer was something like 18 or 20 AWG. I used a wire nut anyways but a lever nut would have been ideal here (no pun intended lol).
@@caffeinatedinsanity2324
Using wire nuts to splice different sized wires is actually quite common. Especially with lighting.
Push in on solid strands. You can do the same with the Wago... 7:00 The leveral on the Wago point backwards when you push them into an enclosure, so you push them close, only when you would pull on them the lever could open. The blue ones, if you push them into somewhere the lever points forward and can catch much easier...
As a professional, I use both lever nuts and wire nuts. I use wire nuts when I expect typical loads to be more than 5 amps because the connection is stronger in a properly done wire nut. However, I'll use lever nuts for anything smaller than 5 amps because of ease of use.
I know it's your personal preference as the "man on the job", but the lever nuts should be good up to 20 amp loads (both are rated to 30 amps so 10 amps feels to me like a good safety derating margin). Anything higher than 20 amps, it makes sense to use wire nuts.
@Sembazuru normally your right. However, in my particular line of work, there are a LOT of motor loads. I derate them more because of the inrush current. I also work with 480v circuits, and I will only use wire nuts or connectors that are more robust with those.
@@VTdarkangel Yes, that all makes sense.
Great video as always my friend. 👍
Thank you John! Hope you are doing well!
@@HowToHomeDIY I doing Well Adam.. I hope you and your family are have a nice summer.
@BackyardMaine I’m really glad to hear that John. We are doing well but we are ready for fall and winter. It’s way too hot down here! 😂
Love the new flexible wire nuts, they work extremely well. But the thing i love most about them is the incredible range of wire sizes and quantities they are compatible with. I've been using a bag of the exact ones he has in the video, and they really are capable of replacing all of the wire nut sizes smaller than the big red ones. A guy used to need a half dozen different sizes of wire nuts to cover the range of applications they're typically used for. Not only do these new ones replace most of the old sizes, I've found these new ones will even work to make reliable splices between itty bitty stranded wires and larger gauge solids. They will quickly and reliably let you splice a #22 stranded wire to a #14 solid, something nearly impossible to do with traditional wire nuts, impossible to do reliably of course. well not anymore! When i first saw a bag of these things on the shelf in Menards, I was skeptical, probably just another overpriced gimmick that overpromises but underdelivers, but nope, i was wrong. They're actually F.M. (f'n magic!) Only thing I don't like about em is that they're kinda expensive when compared to normal "not magic" ones... come on now, I just want the magic wire nuts for nothing, and chicks for free...
I was walking down my street and I saw a guy who was installing an exterior wall sconce. He was trying to connect it up with wire nuts. He used one hand to hold the fixture, another hand to hold the wire nut, and a third hand to grab the wires, and a fourth hand to move the wires so their ends were aligned and could be simultaneously inserted into the wire nut. With lever nuts, that could have been accomplished with only two hands.
I agree with the comments that the 221 levers require care when folding the work back into place after the connection is made.
But there are a couple of other things with the wago 221s that require good craftsmanship that no one has mentioned.
The first thing is that for solid #12, you have to be careful that the stripped wire is not crowned (slightly bowed) before you insert it into the connector. If the wire is crowned, it can be difficult to get #12 solid to seat fully. For remodeling where #12 solid is involved, I always either strip new where the conductor is already flat, or use my needlenose or kleins to flatten any crown (probably left from previously being twisted into a wirenut). And I always make sure that the stripped wires are all buried right to the back of the connector after they are inserted and the levers fully closed. I first rotate the wago around so that I can see that the connectors are all buried. I then rotate it back so I can see that the levers are all locked down. For light fixtures, the crown may not be a common problem as many lighting circuits are thinner #14 and will seat a little easier, but they should still be flattened, the connection isn't really right if the solid wire is curved inside there.
Tge 2nd comment is that if you have say a 5 conductor lever nut all locked in set to go and you then twist it more than one rotation (as if you were twisting a wire nut on multiple solid conductors) you WILL quickly generate enough force to start pulling the wires right out of the connector on the outsides! The wires are getting shorter faster due to being on the outside of the twist as the twisted wire bundle grows grow in thickness, and this generates a lot of force on the connections. If you don't believe this give it a try! Twisting the completed connection around just 180 degrees as mentioned above to check the connection or to point the lever in a safe direction is fine but if you twist the wires more after that half twist you are asking for trouble.
Having said all of this, I love the 221s and feel sorry for people that won't try them. For some situations, e.g., small stranded vs larger solid, or even any stranded vs stranded, IMO they are FAR superior to wire nuts. I guarantee you I can pull any small stranded vs larger romex (typical light fixture connection) apart with almost no force, unless a zip tie or some tape wraps have been used as a strain relief an inch or two back from the connection.
Also, this stuff about 22 stranded wire in a wire nut connection being OK together with larger solid wire is incomprehensible to me. When you put any force on 22 stranded (as in a twist), the conductors will just tear right apart. If you really have #22 (unlikely, as the smallest legal house wire is way larger than that, even signalling circuits are supposed to be #18 ga and larger, and most fixture wires will be 16 ga minimum) then you should be using a ferrule and then going into a box connection of some kind with that #22. And after that, you'd have to be careful because you can't use a ferrule in most types of connectors (although wago seemes to say they are OK for their connectors). But again, #22 isn't a building wire, so I don't know why people are talking about it here so much being joined to romex.
The bottom line is that everything requires craftsmanship, there is no magic bullet. And IMO the lever nuts are the best choice for many situations. I do think wire nuts are fine for solid wires 12-14 where no stranded is involved , perhaps even preferable for connections that shouldn't ever have to be disturbed, such as splices where no device replacement or changes are contemplated.
yup it can be pretty annoying when a old solid wire is extremely twisted from a previous connection. It's a pain to get it perfectly straight sometimes, and if you can't get it at least 90 percent straight it doesn't go in properly, which then slows things down esp if you have a lot of connections to do. With new straight wires it takes a second, but yeah no one ever really talks about this part in any video about wagos.
I am no electrician but am doing electrical stuffs with my new home.
IMO, I find that WAGOs are easier for hard-wired ceiling light fixtures as i might change them later down the road. It also easier to connect wires that has been cutting too short for wire nuts. Another advantage is 4+ wires connection, wing nuts are sometime too small. The con to WAGOs is that you do need to wrap the levers in electrical tape if you are using 221s.
Wing nuts are better for hooking up water heaters, and any connection that has 3 wires or less.
I think both wing nuts and WAGOs are great, just depend on the environment and circumstances.
I've seen Quickfix JB3 and Connexbox carriers and junction boxes made specifically for wagos that they have over in the UK. Is there anything like that here in the US for either lever nut brand? Maybe they're not here because of certification issues...?
The only time that I have used Wago lever connectors is when I was adding electrical accessories on my Goldwing. Definitely taped those levers down. Was a clean look in very limited space, especially for my big hands.
I've never had any problem with a wire nut, and just don't like the different metal in the level-type. I was always told that using different metals in a connector can lead to problems. So, two copper wires are going to make better connection if they are in a wire nut vs going copper to tin to copper, or whatever silver metal is in the level connector. If a DIY can't navigate a wire nut, they probably shouldn't be touching wires.
The connection is made with tinned copper with both the WAGO 221 and the Ideal In-Sure Lever. If you install an electrical outlet it's going from copper wire to a combination of different metals/alloys including nickel and brass.
My house was built in 1978 in Arizona and has aluminum wiring in all original places. (Copper has been used in renovations). Can I safely use lever connectors with aluminum? I am a conscientious DIY person. Re-wiring the house is cost prohibitive at this point. Thanks.
Little tape around the Wago to prevent the lever from snagging on anything.
I really like the WAGO style. One thing I do after I get everything inserted and seated if group the wires together below the wago by an inch or so and use very small wire ties to secure the wires together. I cut off the tail of the wire tie. That helps eliminate the possibility of a wire coming out due a lever being accidentally lifted when tucking the WAGO in the box.
Wire nuts will cap caulk tubes with some vinyl tape.
that's a useful tip. ty
I do low voltage 18g building automation wiring and the Ideal "lever nuts" are a game changer! The positive snap lock lever is far better than the WAGO loosey goosey levers which can get hung up in the wire raceways.
Four different cases in different locations lost power to printer outlets, cubicles, ceiling lights, etc. - in each case it was failed wagos - installed by electricians ! I cut the wagos out and replaced these wagos with " properly installed" wire nuts WITH WIRES TWISTED TOGETHER !!!!!
You like wagos so much -:you can have them !!!!!
I am going to test one on #12 wire, wired to 20 amp outlet on a 20 amp breaker with a 16 amp load, while monitoring the wago with a laser temp monitor. Bet it gets hot !
You like the wagos - they are all yours !!!! Including the lever junk.
I love how I have gotten the pro wire nut and pro lever nut people both so upset claiming I like one over the other 😂
@@HowToHomeDIY The human factor/Ladder of inference will always take things to a questionable level. It's like baseball teams, people can get fanatical about their opinions. :P Personally, I enjoyed the video and now more aware of my choices depending on what I am doing- Have a good one and keep those videos coming!
Wagos are nice for people who have no idea how to properly pig tail two or more wires together before using the proper size wire nut (Marette). They become a better choice for stranded wires connections with solid conductors like Romex.
Awesome video
Can the lever nuts be used with ALU wire? For example could you butt joint a aluminum wire to a copper wire using the lever nut butt joint you show there? Would save having to use that gooey compound on the joint when using wire nuts.
We use the WAGO 221 series as it covers 20-10AWG 221-612 (2 wire) 221-613 (3 wire) and 614 and 615 (4 and 5 wire respectively). I like them as they are a little larger to work with too.
How do the wago connectors compare with the ideal connectors for thermal conductivity and heat? Which one runs cooler?
What is the lifespan of plastic snap connectors? Plastic does disintegrate at some point.
Okay, what are wire nuts constructed of - 100 percent titanium?
I only use Wagos when I think people are going to be in the box messing about like heavily used switch or outlet ect. Good day they are nice man I wish wago would send me some. Lol
Tried and true wire nuts, been used for years!
There's that phrase "tried and true" - yep, heard it before too. (Those wire nuts never fail, right?) Never, ever, ever, right?
And how long do you think wagos have been around, would you suspect they might have been tested?
@@scoops0406 They have been tested and approved by Underwriters Laboratory (UL) I don't know how long they have been around. I have been using them for about 18 years. Many trades people are reluctant to try anything new. They tired vanilla ice cream when they were 5 years old - and dog gone it - that's all they still eat 50 years later.
3M Performance Plus connectors are outstanding! Very common in quality installations..
How are you going to compare the size of the orange blue wire nut to a 5 port connector when that won’t hold 5 wires (14 guage of course)
I compared it to all of them.
...never ever seen a Wago opened unintentionally.
I've seen the fake from China became loose, but not the original Wago
This dude is clearly clickbaiting and content making of of WAGO hate, such a weird carve out of youtube. Just admit a whole continent does electrical better than you and move on.
Golly, gee, me neither - yuk-yuk-yuk
Yes that’s what I thought too. It’s not that easy to open. In video he show it too easy to open on purpose 😏
@@GTOVR4702 There are lots of irrational Wago haters out there. There are also haters of lots of other things/ideas/people whose basis for their hatred is baseless or just plain irrational
WAGO shines with old work! This is OVERLOOKED in so many of these WAGO vs wire nut discussions!
If you're working on a house in USA built before 1970 you're going to encounter short leads in boxes and worse yet, rubber and cloth insulated BX. The rubber often breaks when you try to un-twist a wire nut connections. Worse yet, either the wire or the rubber breaks EVERY TIME when you attempt to twist new wire nuts. BTW, I'm in the twist before nut camp, but NEVER with rubber BX.
Even with plastic/poly insulation, prior to NEC 300.14, there might be only a tiny stub of wire that breaks when you attempt a proper pre-twist wire-nutting. Or a wire breaks when you un-twist, so you have tiny stub to connect. It's totally typical to use a 2x WAGO for a pigtail to a larger twisted wire-nut connection.
This is why I now only use WAGO if I can with old work.
PS, I don't endorse WAGO over Ideal Insure, I'm just saying lever connectors have big advantages for old work.
When I was rewiring a whole house, I used whatever was bought which were the Ideals and WAGOS....about equal amounts of each. This is the first video I've seen that mentions the extra 'push' you need to secure the Ideals. And as I discovered, if you don't do that extra push, the wires CAN pull back out. Once I realized that, I thought the Ideals were the best device overall. But because of the ease in the WAGO levers flipping up and the extra push required to set the Ideals, I wrapped tape around them all.
22 is older design and more bulky. Really no benefit at all to the 221. You'd need to be extremely inept for the lever on either to pose a problem
IMHO, the most important feature of a connector is the amount of resistance measured after the connection is made. Less resistance creates less heat and voltage drop, and wire nuts have been demonstrated time and again to provide the best connection. Try it for yourself - same size and length conductors and measure the Ohms.
This video brought to you by big wirenut.
All jokes aside, I prefer Wagos. They will also allow you to bend conductors easier in a tight box.
Not worried about the lever coming loose, basic workmanship and it's a non issue.
Wirenuts are fine and fast, but when it comes to troubleshooting, the lever nuts (in general) are the best to work with.
Years ago and my first encounter with WAGO Connectors in an existing installation and whereas a lighting fixture issue was determined to be arching within the WAGO. I have witnessed that a few times since. I'm not convinced and refuse to use them.
I am going be installing an automatic transfer switch in my travel trailer so I can have my inverter power coach while dry camping with the solar.
I think the Ideal connectors would a better application due movement and vibration of trailer.
Thanks for sharing.
Considering the first part of the video where you are measuring the connectors, isn't it better to just use a bigger box if space is the issue ?
He should measure the Wago's using the side that the wire would go into as compared to a wirenut.
A bigger box isn’t always a practical option on old work.
For old construction, you don't always have the option for a larger box. For new construction, use a bigger box if possible, then it doesn't matter what nut type you have.
You don't change the box
If you like the Wago trough connector, you should like the 224-112 or 224-101 as well
The problem with Wagos, as I have seen them in factory equipment made overseas, is that when there is high current the spring contacts will lose their tension. That then causes them to heat up. I won't use them for that reason. I have seen too many of those clear windows turn brown, black, or get melted.
I used the Ideal connectors for a light fixture recently and I liked them! But I secured them with electrical tape as you suggested for the WAGOs…. Overkill I know but I wanted to them to be locked in lol.
The Wago has been around a while and I have used many. I don't like how easy the levers will flip open, so I put a wrap or 2 of tape around them. I have only used the Ideal a couple of times. I was surprised how much I liked them. I have expressed my concerns to Wago and have been looking for a little change. My biggest concern is that consumers will try to save a buck and use the (push in only) 2773 series.
I have read that there are two types of WAGO 221, one that can handle wires from 28g to 12g and another that can handle 20g to 10 g. I would like the 20g - 10g best but Im not sure what a read was true???
I've got a couple WAGO branded connectors in the toolbox. They don't have the levers is that an older design?
I believe the wagos are less expensive here in Canada. Nice to see some competition. I had a wire pop out of one recently on my motorcycle. It was with stranded wire, if I recall correctly.
You're a little late to the party! We've been using the 3M wirenuts in the field now for about, oh, 15 years! They come in various sizes, like the large blue/gray that took the place of the individual blue and gray ones, the medium red/yellow, which took the place of the individual red and yellow ones, the orange/blue ones, that took the place of the individual orange and small blue ones, etc, etc.
I prefer the red/gray 3m wire nuts.
@@jimmac1185red is best for number 12 wire. The yellow for number 14. 73
If you're doing maintance or renovations. wire nuts are a pita. Lifting a lever to add or remove a circuit is so much easier. Also 1000x easier to isolate live circuits in a wago and add later.
Thanks for the video. Going to try the ideal line of lever nuts and twist wire nut. I always tape the wago levers.
For me the Wagos are the winner because you can clearly see that your wire is connected properly. Maybe I'm wrong but from my feeling I also like it more that the Wagos are being locked after inserting the wire as on the other connector the connection relies on the preloaded spring busbar.
I’ve had the levers actually snap off the Wagos. I love them, but I’ll be looking at the ldeal ones soon
WAGO 2273 is the answer.. (also called Compact)
they are superior in all points.. no professional electrician in Europe is using the WAGO 221/222. Those are only valid if you don't have solid wires, which isn't the case for most house installation..
I need to wire 2-12 gauge with 1- 10 gauge. I planned to use Wagos, but this is for my shop, and I read they are good for high draw connections....
Where lever nuts really hold their own is on boxes with short wires or were you're fighting for room but as stated cost you can't beat good old wire Nuts.
Can I use the lever nuts for 12V systems? Im not a fan of crimping. Probably no way to seal them in a marine environment
Yes they can be used in 12v applications. Off the top of my head, the wago gel boxes may fit the scenarios you’re referencing. I personally don’t have much experience using them outside of the home.
Google 'wago marine' for details.
The wago are still better than the ideal. I've pulled solid wires right out of the ideal, but I do use them for stranded with no issues. The two major things the ideal have on wago is 1) Cheper and 2) they are available at Lowes. Like you said Wago has been around for a while now, and it's disappointing that they still have yet to make a deal with a big box retailer.
I can finally get them at home depot. Took long enough, but they're there.
I just use this on my Christmas tree; the family puppy chews through the wire. I clean-cut the wires, and it works perfectly.
According to the NEC cubic inches is the number to be considered fore devices in an electrical box. L x W is not a sufficient comparison.
When Ideal first introduced these they were sending out free samples to trades people or anyone who asked for them. I managed to get some and they are good. I would not hesitate to use them.
Am new to Wago's and in my first use adding one receptical the new junction box was in "hell" (crawl space) and when I checked the new receptical it showed a fault. Sure enough I had tripped open a lever and the wire was out. This was MY FAULT as was not aware of the pinch method or double check. I am sold on Wago and will not go back to wire nuts but I should have not assumed they are fool proof
What life expectancy do these plastic things have?
The old screw in type connectors live inside a plastic case but font rely on plastic for the connection to still be ok even if the plastic breaks down.
Genuinely interested, im no longer working but used to be a electronics tech and seen lots of different connection types over the years with varying failure rates.
There’s no way you’re fitting five 12 ga wires in that wire nut, so comparing it to the 5-port Wago’s doesn’t make a whole lot of sense.
Yeah, seemed like a glaring oversight.
I never said 5 #12s in this one and then I did talk about how the difference is not as big when going to the smaller lever connectors.
@AlanW I compared them with the others as well. Nothing was overlooked. My goodness.
@@HowToHomeDIY It felt like you were saying the wire-nut was always better if you were space constrained. There was no mention of how many wires could fit in it compared to the others.
@AlanW because it was until you get to the 2 port wago. The 3M is capable of 4 #14 wires. Wago and Ideal don’t make 4 port lever connectors so you have to use a 5 port, hence the comparison.
I like the ability to get more wires I to or onto a breaker using the wago connectors...But I'm not gonna throw away butt connectors for connecting simple wires in a light switch or outlet box that's nuts 😄
I like a lot of the features of the new Ideal lever nuts. However, the fact they don't use a clear plastic for the case of the lever nut is a deal killer. In good lighting conditions, you can see whether or not the wire has been properly inserted through Ideal's translucent, rather than clear, plastic. However, when installing, lighting is often far from perfect.
That said, I'll never use a wire nut if using a lever nut is an option. For a DIYer like myself, it's simply too hard to know if the two or more wires have been properly connected inside the wire nut. That's a particular problem when connecting two different types (stranded and solid) or sizes of wire. Sometimes the wire nut seems to grab onto the insulation of the wire rather than the wire itself. When that happens, tugging on the wires gives you false confidence that you have a solid connection.
Okay, it is a wire nut and this is just another video for wire nuts. I've used both. When I doubt if a wire nut will work well or if I think that I'm going to have to dig back into the work soon I Wago. Otherwise the wire to wire contact of the wire nut is better. There was a video and the guy used a thermal camera. The Wago got hotter than the wire nut. I don't think that the difference was significant enough to not use wagos where they would have advantages.