ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- This Weber IDF Series Carburetor video covers everything from soup to nuts. The Weber IDF is one of the all time favorite Horse Power upgrades for the VW enthusiast. I try to make this entertaining and fun. I will give my personal opinions, I will cover Jet Sizing, Venturi Sizing, what every screw, nut and bolt does. We will disassemble and replace a Venturi. If you have been wondering about what part does what but been afraid to ask? This video should cover it. But Wait! There's More!
If you have HPMX, Empi, Super D. Dellorto carbs which all are basically copies of this Famous carburetor. Then you came to the right place. If you have comments or questions leave them down below and I will try and help or admit I don't have the answer. I double dog dare ya!
IDF Carburetors Low Speed Circuit Tuning
It is most important to verify all linkage and levers are installed without binding and the linkage opens to full throttle and is allowed to close to the Idle Speed Screw. This is the number one and two reasons for tuning errors, improper linkage installations and over tightened linkage nut, causing binding in the linkage assembly.
Standard IDF Settings: Speed screw ¼ to ½ turn in after contact with lever maximum.
Mixture Screw 1 turn out from lightly seated.
“Lean Best Idle” Procedures
After confirming the linkage allows the throttle lever to seat against the Idle Speed Screw. Back off the Idle Speed Screw, then turn the screw in until it contacts the throttle lever and turn it in ½ turn. Turn in the Mixture Screw in until it “LIGHTLY” seats, then back it out 1 full turn. Loosen the 8mm wrench size nuts on the “air bleed” screws, turn in the air screws until it seats then tighten the nut.
a. Start the engine, it will run slow and like a tractor. As long as it will stay running, the idle speed is not important at this point.
b. First, turn in the mixture screw until the engine runs worse, then back out the screw ¼ turn at a time. The engine should start to smooth out. Continue to back the screw out ¼ turn at a time until the screw does nothing or runs worse. Then turn it back in to the point where it ran best. You want to tune the engine by sound. Adjust each mixture screw to the best, fastest and smoothest running point. Do this procedure with each mixture screw.
c. Now you may adjust the Idle Speed Screw. It should be sensitive and only require ¼ turn in or out to achieve the idle speed you like.
d. These carbs are commonly used in pairs, this makes the synchronization important, be sure to bring the high flowing carb down to the low flow carb. Then bring them both up to “proper” Idle speed. The Idle Speed Screws are not opened more than ½ turn in.
e. After synchronizing multiple carbs, reconfirm steps b. c. & d.
“Simple Rules for Calibration”
If your mixture screw is out more than one turn like 11/2 turns then your idle jet is too lean, go up one half size on the Idle jet. If you mixture screw is not out one full turn, something like only 1/2 turn out from seated then your Idle jet is too rich, go down one half size on the idle jet.
More Tuning & Adjustment
1. Most Critical! Be sure for initial carburetor set up all air by-pass screws should be in closed position. These are not commonly used in standard carburetor adjustment.
2. Set the idle speed screw at ¼ to ½ turn in after contact with throttle lever. When doing multiple carburetors all linkage should be disconnected. All carbs should be bench adjusted to same setting.
3. Set the idle mixture screw to one turn out form lightly seated. When checking the seated position to make only light contact with seat, aggressive seating will damage needle and seat of carburetor,
Adjustment if possible should be to find smoothest idle with each mixture screw on all carburetors. Some prefer to do one barrel of each carburetor then come back and do the second barrel
4. Start engine as long as engine starts and runs do not turn up idle speed first.
5. After preliminary lean best setting of idle. Check carburetors for synchronization. Commonly done by checking lead or front barrel of each carburetor.
6. You will always want to bring high flow carburetor down to match the low flow carburetor. If this cannot be done you will need to recheck bench assembly for binding throttle in high flow carb. Once you have matched both carburetors you will need to set the idle to the desired idle speed setting. This will be done by adjusting both carbs up or down the same amount and re checking for synchronization.
7. Make one last check of lean best (smoothest running position) idle on all mixture screws one last time.
8. Best idle should end up with the mixture screws at or near one turn off seat. Check rule of thumb for idle jet selection on the other side of this page.
REDLINE
1225 W. Imperial Hwy Brea, CA 92821
1-877-405-4345
REDLINE is a division of WORLDPAC
The REDLINE Difference
Thanks for the education. I always learn something. I did the cam break in, on my 1776, tonight. It’s my first solo, engine rebuild. Lost an exhaust gasket, about 5 minutes in. I thought something was bad wrong. LOL. After it cooled down, I replaced the gasket, and it sounds good. Keep educating people, and me. Thanks
What exciting time you had!!!! I still hold my breath when I fire one off for the first time. CONGRADULATGIONS!!! 1776 is one of my favorite builds. May you get lots of smiles to the miles my friend. I appreciate your comment and support1 :-)
Lots of good nuggets in there! Thank you again for taking time to sit down and share your thoughts and knowledge. Always good to have a refresher and hear others points of views and interpretations of the book.
Gary, Your so kind. Thanks for your friendship and support.
Long live the VW power people.... Love ya buddy, keep on keepin on.!!!!!
Probably the most in depth video on the weber carb i have ever seen. great work! I I hate when other people are just like "Go look it up in the book"
I left a lot on the table. The books help you understand more but the books are from another time. The fuel has changed and we have to change with it. Thankfully there is technology that allow's us to monitor what's happening. VW engines will take a lot of mistakes for a short term but if you want long life and drivability you have to learn how to blend the new with the old. Keep the radio off and listen to your engine. It will tell you what it wants. Live Long and Prosper Silver Skrubb! Love the name :-)
A little to much explaining 60 yrs of weber ...lol...lost interest in 5 mins .
Congratulations, you have received 114 virtual burritos 🌯 for 114 minutes of great information and a great time! Glad your back at it I'm just getting caught back up on your video's been out in the garage going thru my wife's engine in her 62
sounds good. I wish I was just virtually fat instead of it being real. LOL
@@TheEZGZ hahaha too much!
I never could figure out how to tune the 40 idfs right on my bug but they certainly were reliable once they were tuned right by the local VW mechanic. Never had an issue with cold or hot starts, they just worked. The sound that little 1679cc made with twin idfs, velocity stacks, and a long tube exhaust was just glorious. Thank you for the video EZ!
Sounds like a happy ending. No shame in asking for help. U tubers are always leaving comments and helping learn new things. Thanks for your comment and support. :-)
Have you ever had any issues with gas clogging the jets if you don't turn on the car for long periods of time?
@@arthurbttf Modern gas will do that on a carburetor unfortunately. There's a few things that you can do to help mitigate it like draining the carbs and blocking the fuel lines or using some additives. It has to do with how modern fuel evaporates iirc.
Good to see ya, Loved that buggy ride last week. Mine was popping so I took them off, till I move next door to you. thanks buddy
Me too! I wish this weather would warm up....
Greg, Awesome isn't a word I normally use but this video is just that. So much info! I will need to watch it a couple more times and take some notes. Thank you for sharing your hard earned knowledge.
EZ you sounded very focused, talking about these carburetors! Very informative! Thank you, sir!
If you only new how many takes it took to get there. It could have been better..... I appreciate your support my friend.
@@TheEZGZ 😆
@@TheEZGZ Yes sir!🤝
Maybe you can do a segment on the Kadron 40tys as to show people. Liked your videos! Keep it going! A lot of good info!
Good idea! I have a set already. They came on my Baja and worked great.
This is the most explained carbureto video I ever seen. Clear and objective. Good Job bro!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Just started working on the '68 Beetle of my Uncle who passed away 2 years ago.
Got it MOT'd last week. (Lots, and lots of rust.) And next up is the engine...
Its a type 4 engine, with supposedly 2.7l displacement. It has 2 Weber 40 IDF's on it.
And this is the very first time I'm working on car carbs. (My only experience is lawnmowers and Nitro engines.)
First thing I got is a book, on weber Carbs only. After that, we'll see how it goes.
Good Luck with your project!
That "step'" in the manifolds to allow for the big 48s is something I'm surprised no one has addressed by welding extra material and then reshaping with a porting stone or something. Great vid EZ, I've never run these on a VW motor but I used to have a Ford Escort (4cyl British car) which I fitted with a sidedraft Weber and it was a magnificent carburettor, so tunable and versatile!
Those DCOE Weber carbs will at least fit under the hood. I never had any. Some sand cars use them with a Centermount Turbo charger and they get the job done.
@@TheEZGZ Yep seen those setups on some of those crazy Hawaiian Beach buggies, I'll bet they're a handful on the street!!
Very informative, now to rebuild mine for the next dune trip 🤙
Have fun!
The EZGZ is the dual carb doctor KING! Thänx for all the tips and videos. Your tips can make these carbs play the music globally for all the Motörheads! Greetings from Finland 🇫🇮 💀🏁
Greetings to you my friend !
Honestly stuck here with nothing to make my day except ezgz videos. Makes for a great day! Seriously considering buying a 10k dollar near mint mid sixties bug just because of your channel. The motors look like adult legos with spark plugs.
If you have a garage to keep it in and take care of it. It will probably hold it's value. It's a great conversation starter. It's also a Chick magnet for older women. They always have a story to tell me.
@@TheEZGZ HA! the truth comes out... cuz the chicks dig it! 😆😆
Let me rephrase that to clarify. It's a Hen magnet.... LOL We can always hope for the chicks. hehehe
Thank you EZGZ, for all your videos and sharing your knowledge 🙏🏽
Glad you like them!
I have a type4 with Weber's Enjoy all your video's Thank you for sharing all your Knowledge Most of all I enjoy you and your Personality !!
Thanks for watching! I appreciate your support and friendship
G'day,
Kevin here from Australia.
Your right you never stop learning about these and I've only had them for 4 years now. they can be beautiful one day and there in the bin the next.
But hey i love these videos I'm just about to watch this one for the 3rd time.
Anyhoo stay healthy man.
✌ Peace.
There seems to be a built in Gremlin when you start changing the cars. One day the work great. But take a shower and put on clean cloths to go for a drive and they have a mind of there own. It's a Love/Hate affair for sure.
Thanks for watching 3 times. Don't be late for your therapist appointment.
Cheers! I love ya Kevin. hehehe
@@TheEZGZ 🤣🤣🤣
Love the opening music Ez!..
One of my favorites from the U tube free music library
Well. I wanted to know about these as I have started working on some. Boy I found the right video 👍🏻
Hi EZ! Thanks for the video!
Thanks for your support Patrick. People like you keep it coming. I appreciate it.
@@TheEZGZ
I know you've been over this before. Right now I'm having a hard time getting my head temp down. Just got a CHT and it keeps showing my head temp at 375-400
rejetted the new 30/31 Solex to 130/60/65/125z, timing at about 5 btdc, SVDA, SP 1600 in a bus
runs great, oil temp stays low
every where I read says it's too hot
guess I'll have to have dig through your old videos and see if I can figure something out
Thanks for the resource!
You are the Best too!!!!
I'm trying. I always feel like I left to much out. Thanks for your support! :-)
Thanks for the gold nuggets tips. That was a awesome video. Thanks for taking the time to make it. 👍
Your my inspiration...... Thank You!
Thanks so much for the lesson. I could always use more insight on these style carbs. I have a Haynes manual for them but it's like trying to read Chinese. LOL
Glad it was helpful!
If memory serves, Weber outsourced casting and manufacturing to a Spanish supplier, while continuing to own the weber name. To use the guitar theme, a made in USA vs a made in Mexico Strat.
Yep
Glad your back, I really enjoy your videos
I appreciate that!
Thank you very much for sharing your mad skills and wisdom.
Your very kind. Thanks for putting up with my screaming. :-)
solid information . . . thank you
Great video tons of info. I think I missed the point on adjusting the accelerator pump adjustment nut. Any recommendations I.e. starting point and adjustment of the squirt.
Screwing the in is more squirt. Out is less. If I'm out in the dunes where your on and off all the time I screw it where it almost flush with the stem. If I'm on pavement I will screw it in so that the stem is showing about the width of the nut. Test drive and tune. Let the seat of the pants meter guide you. Makes a big difference in MPG.
Another way is if you blip the throttle and see black smoke your rich. Back it off. Factory says it's tuned when you get it. Don't mess with it. HaHa I have to fiddle with everything cause I'm stupid.
Thanks Ez. I see the cute little pupper made an appearance at 22:06! Hope you both are well and happy - Ted
Wow! You got a good eye! She is always close even when I'm screaming at a camera. heehehe
Wow... EZGZ that is a ton of awesome information!!! Excellent video. Now I need a burrito too!!
Sounds good to me! LOL I'm buying you a virtual
Burrito smothered in love. hehehehe Don't forget the hot sauce!
@@TheEZGZ Thanks brother!!
Hey there EZ. What a great rundown on the webers. I wish you had done this 2 years ago when I was trying to untangle my setup. I must have a look at the progression holes to make sure they are covered. I had some clone idf’s on my buggy 2276 engine, FK8 cam. Never had much luck with them until I bought new Spanish webers. What a difference in tune ability. Anyway I had one question. When setting float level the float isn’t parallel to the carbie top. When it reaches the point where it cuts the fuel the float is on an angle with one float a bit lower than the other one which is closer to the pivot point. I don’t want to bend the float as surely that will damage the plastic floats. My question is where do you measure the 12mm or whatever from because the gap is bigger the further you get from the pivot point. How that makes sense.
GREAT QUESTION Peter! This is not an uncommon problem. You want that 12mm or what ever from the bottom of the gasket that is above the float to the top of the float. I should be parallel (the same) all the way across the top. If you can't get to the tab with needle nose pliers, use a punch to tap out the hinge pin and remove the float so you can get at it without things in the way. If you don't have a small punch use a nail. Make sure when you put it back together the wire bale is around the tab. It's also a good time to unscrew the inlet valve (float needle) and make sure there is nothing in there and it works freely. New gasket and needle comes in the master rebuild kit but you probably won't need it.
A high float setting causes your main fuel venturi to start pulling in fuel sooner and if out of balance with the other carb will make your spark plugs rich (dark or even wet) I know you can do this and IT WILL run smoother when both carbs are the same. I keep thinking about taking my 2276 out of the sand car and putting it myt tub buggy. hmmmmmm Have a great day Peter
Love watching your video's on centremount I've got a 40 IDF in the UK on a 1776 looking at getting an extra spring to fully close the butterfly have you got any recommendations?
What kind of car is it? Sandcar, Baja, stock sedan or Buss?
I've fought that fight before and come up with different solutions. The throttle cable should move freely without any drag. The buss throttle is a single wire instead of a cable. It has less drag. Cleanout the throttle cable tube.
instead of using a spring that pulls use one that pushes and place it between the fan shroud and the carb connection???? I use a morse cable on my sandcar with a spring at the gas peddle. Time to get creative. I don't like extra springs on the Carb.
18:15 Weber recommends a 2mm (5/64) hole in the throttle plates for single center mount
You are correct but it is not specific as to where? It just says in the throttle plate. Ounce you make that hole there is no turning back. If you make it to big you raise the idle. It all depends on the size of your engine. I don't want to suggest that mod and then have someone blame me for there issue's
@@TheEZGZ Always keep the originals and modify replacement parts, in this case, throttle plates are $12. Start small and only go as much as needed. Worked on my single DCNF.
Good idea. Where are you getting the plates from?
@@TheEZGZ I've gotten parts from Pierce Manifolds, Pegasus Auto Parts, and the last batch of parts was from alfa1750 on Evilbay
@@bedlamite42 I got my set of Dellorto 40’s from alfa1750 (Gabrielle in Italy) in the early 2000’s for about $400 (try that price nowadays!). Last time I looked his supply had dried up.
Where did you get that "air cooled" poster/flag in your intro and background?
Great video
A friend of mine bought it for me as a gift. The artist is from California and goes to most of the VW swap meets. There is no signature on it. Sorry. I like it too.
@@TheEZGZ ok thanks for the reply. I'll try and search the internet for it.
A most informative video.....thank you
Glad it was helpful!
How to fix weber progressive stumbling under accelerated
www.aircooled.net/making-weber-progressive-dfev-work-aircooled-vw-engine/
Well done Greg, that was a marathon, I needed 2 cups of tea get through. The big videos are harder as the editing requirement increases....thank you for the effort. How do you keep your garage warm so you don't freeze your a#$e off out there in winter?? My garage is separate from my house and in winter is like a refrigerator when the sun goes down. Cheers Mick
Glad you enjoyed it! My garage is attached. I installed a natural gas space heater. The kind that hangs in the corner of the ceiling. It makes all the difference but is noisy when it cycles on. I have to make sure it's turned off when I make a vid. It's worth having. Have you checked into those pellet stoves?? Or even a propane heater?
Natural gas is cheaper in the long run. You would have to run a gas line underground to the garage. You might have to pull permits and get it inspected. Butttt I think it would increase the value of your home and you would get out there more? Take care and stay warm.
What are your thoughts on making a custom manifold to run webers on a 5.3 LM7? I see a lot of mixed opinions on them for a street/track car. The motor is going in a porsche 944 and im looking into getting an aluminum block eventually
I have seen people make one 44IDF Weber work on 240 cubic inch V8 with simple adapter plate. Usually gets horrible mileage but look kool
I just put a 2110 with dual 40 IDF... And it's flooding like crazy. I've all but closed off the idle mixture screws but the acc pump spits in hesitation. Did I simply under-carb the thing or do I have a week's worth of tinkering ahead of me? Either way, I'll tinker, follow some advice from here. Got a bunch of printouts and bought a copy of the Tech Manual from CBP. Pray for me!!!
I run a fuel regulator and set it at 2 1/2 PSI and confirm with a accurate gauge.
The hesitation on accelerator pump is ether contamination in the tiny fuel circuit or the brass bypass check valve in the bottom of the float bowl is not closing. They make a 0 bypass valve normally used on single center mount carbs. You can also adjust the stroke on the diaphragm
I know you have IDFs and Dellorto DRLAs. Which one is your favorite? I thought they were pretty much the same thing.
I like my Delorroto's but they haven't been made for a long time. The idle jets in the air cleaner are nice on some cars but the weber IDF are on the outside and easy to get to on some cars. It's all good. Port on Port is best IMHO
my 40 Dells run like a champ!
Long live the Dell's
I've used IDF's on a few different engines. This time around I'm going DRLA.
You'll like the way Dells hold their tune. The idle mixtures have finer threads and fit tighter. They also have a habit of whistling.
Good tech talk !
I try' but always feel like I could have done better.
Is there a gasket manufacture .. ie , Redline, Empi, , Bantley.. ( made in England) that you prefer ?
Paper vs Rubber ?
I’ve noticed a slight difference in the gasket between the carb body and the top. Some gaskets , you can take the top off without disturbing the gasket, some have to come off because of the floats.
Great Question! The gasket goes between the float and the top It's not a bad idea to coat the bottom side with something like chapstick or a soft candle wax????? Not sure if you have chapstick across the pond?? hehehe
I've never seen a rubber replacement and you want to set your float from the bottom of the gasket so the "paper" would be more accurate than rubber witch would compress more. I hope that answers your question?
Oh.. re-read your comment.
I’m in California, my gaskets are from an England company I purchased from Pierce Manifolds Inc in Gilroy , Ca.
Thanks ezgz 😊
So if I have junk sloshing around in my trash can I can intermittent stalls when stopping aggressively?
sorry for the delay! Might just have to set your idle a little higher, like around 1,100 rpm
Hi EGZZ
Can you advise me on the development of my single DRLA 36?
My engine is a 1600 double intake.
My glucides are :
Glucide principal 158
Glucide slow 66
Glucide pump 70
Venturis 30
Thank you in advance
A other wise stock 1600 DP engine with a single 36mm DRLA Dellorto carb on a low profile cross port manifold should respond very well to: 28mm venturis, 170 air correction, 150 main gas. 60 idle, and 55 pump jets
Merci @@TheEZGZ 👍
Hi, enjoying your videos, I'm currently doing a project on a 3.5V6 their 287hp and around 250ftlbs tourqe as standard and I want to run 3x48idf, but it's confusing trying to work out what jets, emulsions, venturies, air jets etc I need to get her going, what do you recommend please for this setup?. Once it's done I will get it tuned properly. Its such hard these days as my tuner has now retired, he always setup my builds for me and I've done some unusual builds over the years, always liked webers and my v6's but I'm at a bit of a loss.
Many Thanx Gaf
1 48 IDF with stock jetting should work with stock jets but why not use the factory fuel system that came with the engine?
@@TheEZGZ @TheEZGZ hia, I'm old school and Carbs I've always put on injection engines and always had good results, i love tinkering from time to time balancing Carbs etc, my car is also Road/Track toy so the idea of using X3 sets of idf id have 1 port into each Cylinder (X6 ports for the V6) the sound alone is fantastic and it gives me maximum airflow into each cylinder enabling me to add the extra fuel and get this thing to sing, its a 3.5ltr so I'm looking around 0.58 per cylinder that I need to work out what I need to use to get a good base to get it all up and running, I'll fabricate my own inlet, and add a cowl on the bonnet like I normally do, I'll run a trigger setup for the timing etc, (miss my old type distributor and points to but I have to move with the times on this I'm afraid but I'm gonna hold onto Carbs until the day I die.
Thanx for your time really appreciate it.
Gaf
Another great video thanks ezgz one question as a newbie what size engine for 40 idf or 44 idf? I mean is there a range they work on say 1600 to 1900 for 40 idf then I would need to get 44 idf for 2110? Thanks again for a great video
You nailed it right there buddy. Your one of those naturals. I had to work at it. Those 40 IDF will work on most anything from a stock 1600 to much larger. No sense oversizing the carb and loosing drivability if your not a real racer. You could always pop in some 30mm venturi's and bigger jets similar to the 36 Dellorto's
Ez I'm about to set fire to my bug iv asked for your help and you have always gave advice and I thank you for that but I build a brand new engine all new everything and it a 1700 I put a engle w100 cam 1.25 ratio rockers and the empi gtv-2 heads it ran great for five blocks 😂 that turned out to be the empi all in one distributor do I threw that way and I put in a vac advance compufire distributor runs great till third gear and it cuts out bad so bad it just does now I have a single weber 40 it has 150 mains 200 air and 50 idle jet I have to turn the mix screws all the way out and my plugs a sut black iv also trued 115 mains and 175 air no difference any suggestions should I just put the pic 34 back on it or have I already hurt my new engine it DNT have 50 miles on it
Calm Down, You probably haven't hurt your engine yet. But don't keep driving it that way. Start watching more of my vids and you will see that you have one of a pair of Weber carbs jetted for dual carbs. It won't work as a single carb with that jeting. You need a 160 air correction jet (richer). you need a 65 idle jet and your ok with the 150 main jet just to get you in the ball park. Don't forget the zero bypass valve on your accelerator pump inlet at the bottom of the float bowl. You may need to drill your throttle plates to get it to idle without being in the progression holes. WATCH MY VIDS!!!! I'VE TOLD IT ALL. Good Luck. I have faith in you. Don't give up.
@@TheEZGZ thanks ya I have a zero by pass valve ok I'll get those jets and try from there thank ez
my old shop teacher used to tell us to "never stick nothin harder than your pecker in a jet" hahah
Good Advice! LOL
Does the butterfly shaft have replaceable seals? If not, How critical is that shaft to body seal ? I blew compressed air along the shaft and noticed a bit of fuel bleeding through.....thanks in advance....cheers from Australia.
The butterfly shaft has sealed ball bearings . Can't get much better than that. If you go turbo they say you should have double sealed bearings.......
Ok, so if I can blow air through that shaft/bearing , I probably have a leak.....how do you think that would affect the motor? If at all? It’s certainly minor but I’m still having issues. Thanks Eric
Head is spinning thanks
I tried
Is this Ron from car craft?
EZ, how are you? I just acquired a set of Weber 40 DCNF. What's the difference in those and 40 DCOE? Are these good for a 1600 daily driver? Thanks!
DCOE are horizontal carbs. DCNF are vertical. IDF are a far better choice for VW engines
@@TheEZGZ Thanks EZ.
have you messed around with mechanical fuel injection on these bugs? what’d you think?
The factory stuff did not work that great. Were a bit complicated and were desgined for emissions. Consequently the made less power. There are a lot of EFI systems out there and some folks had good luck building there own with Mega Squirt ECU most of that stuff is expensive
Does the height of the velocity stacks make a difference?
Taller Velocity stacks will increase the entrance velocity to help override and force bounced mixture into the cylinder. Taller velocity stacks can some times be used to contain fuel stand or reversion. Most street driven cars are limited in the size of the velocity stacks that will fit inside the air cleaner. You must have enough room between the top of the stack and the air cleaner lid to prevent restriction. Usually half the diameter of the stack should be used to calculate this space. Stacks should match the size of the carb bore and not have steps at the transition that will cause turbulence.
@TheEZGZ I have dual weber 44's with big 5.5x9x6 air cleaners with the maybe 3inch velocity stacks now. I just wondered if putn taller stacks with the taller air cleaner would help for any reason.
EZGZ, what are your recommendations to get a good running centermount idf blow through carb?
Blow threw!!! Your talking Turbo??? Some of my friends have used Dual 40 IDF and some have used 40 DRA with good results on 2276 for the sand...... In both cases you need a fuel regulator that will compensate for boost. More Boost more pressure. Hope that answers your question on old school carb. EFI Turbo is the way to go for long life.
Hi I have hesetation in the middle of my acceleration can you give me input sherry Burg 40s
Watch all my weber videos
So on my 48ida setup with a cam that gets up to 6krpm (engle 125) my 37venturi could go up to 40 🤔 hmmm
If I see a progression hole I need a larger air jet?
Dear Vic I'm sorry my video was so painful to watch. If you could endure watching the whole thing it may address your question. I can not answer your question without knowing the displacement of your engine, exhaust, heads and so on. I also provide a snapshot from the weber book for sizing venturi's. Pause there and study the example. Plug in your single cylinder displacement. Then go up to the RPM scale and turn left to find the correct venturi for your engine. I think I did a good job discribing the progression holes and if you read all of the discrition box you will find where I copy and pasted more help.
Engel lists the 125 cam for drag racing or competition offroad. I suspect you would loose drivability on the street going with the larger venturi. My 2110 with scat c35 cam (engel 110) easily pulled to 6 k RPM with 48 Dellortos using 34mm venturi's. The Weber book is a good read and I refer to it all the time.
I did watch the video. It was great. The pages you posted said that.
I have Empi ida not webber. Never had any book.
My apologies but you still didn't tell me anything to help make recommendations?
You did in last video. I have 2109cc with dual 48ida 125 cam 42x37.5 heads and 1:25:1 rockers largest exhaust. MSD ignition NGK 6 plugs 60idle, 200air F7 tubes and 140mains
Dont over carburate your engine...
A single IDA or IDF 40 would be fine for a std 2litre and below. You will have a lot of power and fuel economy with this combination.
Hi buddy, here in Brazil They put 30 % of alcool in gasoline...
Helps it run cooler but you need to step up the main jet???
@@TheEZGZ the problem is corrosion in The carbs, tank and exhaust. We need to use a eletrical fuel pump to drain all fuel from The carbs before stop The engine. Happy New year ! Joy and peace !
IDF and IDA are Great......
But DCOE are Greatest...
depends on the application
what does idf mean?
The Weber book is not clear on that but it appears that the letters represent the first letter of Italian words. I do not speak Italian??? (Inverted, Downdraft, Frustration) hehehe
Invertire Doppio Fiat or Ferrari?