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🔴 Fluke 289 Multimeter Review - Sponsored by Fluke & Pomona - No.1046
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ส.ค. 2024
- Fluke 289 Multimeter Review
I review the Fluke 289 True RMS Multimeter which was provided to me at no cost thanks to Fluke and Pomona.
I look at the features of the Fluke 289, and check the 289's accuracy against my reference standards and my Datron 4700 Calibrator.
Fluke 289 Logging Multimeter: defs.link/?u=0ecbc34
0:00 - Intro.
0:15 - Unboxing the Fluke 289 and looking at its accessories.
4:40 - Opening the Fluke 289 battery and fuse cover.
6:18 - First look at Fluke 289 multimeter.
14:00 - Testing continuity mode of Fluke 289.
17:00 - Testing Capacitance Mode of Fluke 289.
18:50 - Testing Diode Mode of Fluke 289.
20:25 - Lead connection warning of Fluke 289.
23:08 - Basic DC accuracy testing.
24:34 - Fluke 289 Hold& Min/Max mode.
26:20 - Info Button of Fluke 289 multimeter.
29:55 - Setting Fluke 289 backlight timeout.
30.40 - Logging on the Fluke 289.
35:35 - Temperature mode, showing internal temp.
36:15 - Testing Fluke 289 DC V accuracy on Datron 4700 Calibrator.
38:38 - Testing Fluke 289 AC V accuracy on Datron 4700 Calibrator.
41:10 - Testing Fluke 289 AC frequency response on Datron 4700 Calibrator.
44:20 - Testing Duty Cycle on Fluke 289.
45:00 - Testing Fluke 289 low pass filter.
46:14 - Testing crest factor.
46:50 - Testing Fluke 289 resistance accuracy on Datron 4700 Calibrator.
51:15 - Testing Fluke 289 DC uA & DC mA accuracy.
52:52 - Testing Fluke 289 AC uA & AC mA accuracy.
54:02 - Testing Fluke 289 DC A accuracy.
55:02 - Testing Fluke 289 AC A accuracy.
55:31 - Closer look at the factory verification data.
56:46 - THE PEEL !
57:12 - Fluke 289 teardown.
1:04:16 - Summary of Fluke 289 review.
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My 2 favorite meters my 87 V and my 289 I find myself now days using the 289 more the graphing and memory are super handy for power rail glitch detection . Excellent review sir
My god, the 289 is really awesome. One of my favorite use for its precision and logging feature. A beefy unit. Switched to Enelop Pro batteries and never looked back. Appreciate your review. It's highly educational as always.
The battery life sucks so here's my hack:
I simply place two 4.2V Li-Ion 14500 (AA sized) and 4 AA-sized battery conductors/shunts. Ensure your Li-Ion charger accepts these sizes (many of them are pretty universal). Buy a 4-pack of good quality cells (EBL is fine) so when these two start to droop you can simply swap them out with the other two freshly charged cells.
I love the feature of turning the selector off and then back to get back to "Normal" mode. Once you have set the different modes you want it is damn near impossible to get back out. Like when you have selected the min-max feature, there is no other way to turn this back off other than getting out of that selection and going back in.
When you are doing the capacitor measurements you need to zero out your leads. You will notice that it wasn't anywhere near zero before you connected the test capacitors. REL in the menu is your friend.
Like this battery trick, cool. ;)
Just a heads up for anyone that ends up using this meter. In the video he sets it to measure crest factor, then tries to switch it to measure peak value, and it just beeps at him. For whatever reason, with this meter, if you turn on crest factor measurement, you have to go back and hit crest factor again to disable it, then you can bring up peak or frequency or whatever. Not sure why crest factor is the only function that acts this way though. Every other mode you can switch between them no problem. It's a great meter so far. I have it locked in a panel logging a 24v power supply overnight tonight. I'm hoping this logging function is going to help track down some rare intermittent issues at work.
Damn fine meter. Great review. Thanks!
Fluke should include a basic case with their meters
If the plastic was to break, it's not a worry as it would be covered under Flukes lifetime warranty. I have one of these meters too and I love it. Awesome review.
Just bought a Fluke 289...Super Awesome features including data logging, low pass filter, Fluke Connect ir3000 FC Connector to view on your smart phone or computer, etc... The Fluke 289 is the Best out of ALL of all the Fluke multimeters I've owned in over 30 years. Fluke is the best still. No they don't say "John Fluke - Made in the U.S.A." on the back of the units anymore but hey...even my ex wife was "Made in China"... Thank You for this video! Aloha!!!
lmao
I've got this meter myself (among others) as well but I don't use it very much. I prefer the 189 which is, in my opinion, the best multimeter Fluke ever produced. I choose that one over my 87V too.
You didn't REL out the meter on Cap measurement and blame the meter for inaccuracy, I don't know what to say to that.
Great review, you say nit picking but at this price I don't want to see screws that have clearly not been screwed in properly, thats a Fluke QA issue and also your quite right about the screws being to short as 1 turn aint enough, but at the end of the day I will never need a fraction of those functions but it's good news for those who do...cheers.
Great info and thorough insite on the Flute👍..Hope😺gang are better..
The cat is still dead… she had so many health issues and kept going for so long we used to joke that she was a zombie cat… the other two cats are doing fine though, they were all sisters so they are the same age.
Best review of the fluke 289 I have seen. A pity you didn't have the fluke view software. Which is not that intuitive to use, it's more to do with documenting data.
I find Hioki software for data logging more user friendly (simple) and you can directly log data to Excel with it.
From the Fluke website: Fluke 287 multimeters beginning with serial number 42700001 and Fluke 289 multimeters beginning with serial number 42830001 ship with firmware version 1.41. Older versions of the Fluke 287 or 289 with lower serial numbers cannot be upgraded to version 1.41
Not sure about earlier versions as I seem to recall a lack of keeping settings, but I can confirm the firmware version 1.41 does keep the settings about AC or DC for both the A/mA and uA when power-cycling the meter. So, that annoyance is fixed.
Ridiculous price and huge battery hungry meter. Thumbs up for your work!
Beware the Dura-Leaks! I also got a much better price by getting a gently used and calibrated unit locally. Mine was a 287.
Chauvin Arnough, Gossen Metrawatt and Keysight are all have similar cost for high end meters.
Hi. Nice review.
Would you know what's a difference between your newer version with 1.41 software and the older ones with software up to 1.16?
Would you do a quick test for us. Set it to Vdc range, short leads and do the "peak" function (not min.max). What are your readings?
Cheers in advance.
my favorite fluke 87v fluke 289 and fluke 179
Always check and calibrate your leads and look into calibration for your meters
What a storming bit of kit. Quality leads too, none of that PVC junk.
Thanks!
thank you !
For 100 uV and 1 mV you should give it more time for settle. Eventually will show a more close value with the calibrator. Anyway, a very good review for this valuable meter.
I did let it settle, I cut out wasted time during editing, these were the final values
I'm using it for many years. Don't really like it. I prefer previous 189. Boot up time and display contrast drive me nuts. For most of jobs i grab 1587. Only when accuracy matter i grab 289. Wish they finally made upgraded at least put better display.
Are Duracell's good? Was that a joke? I've always experienced them leaking but I'm kinda new to this level of electronics repair. (trying to push myself)
It is times like these that I reach for a moving coil meter.
You can use it with TestController and TestController wil track the range switch.
Good to know
🔥👍
What I like: low ohms mode, I think I saw adjustable dBm (different ohm setting), bargraph positive and negative.
What I don't like: display with a lot of ghosting, defaults to AC current, not remembering the settings (with such extensive menu's imho it's a must), price (fluke is crazy expensive here in europe). Not sure if it has a 4-20mA mode, but that is something a meter like this also should have.
Too bad you didn't show the software interface (pomona didn't include it). To me logging without software is pretty much useless. Usually you want to do something with the data, share it, or process it in excel etc.
I wonder if logging by the software interface can be done faster than 1sec intervals. Because it's a bit strange to log in 1sec intervals where the display update rate is much faster.
Especially if you want to do energy or charge measurements, 1sec interval logging might not be precise enough.
Too bad the software interface has to be bought separately, and is very expensive, even more expensive than a lot of good multimeters itself.
Although these newer 289's are a little bit cost-optimised they are still great meters.
Just don't buy them right now, way overpriced because of chip shortage.
For anyone looking for a second hand deal, here is an easy way to check if it's the old version or the new one: open the battery tray and see if it has bent metal strips as contacts for the batteries as this one in the video does, or if it has old fashioned spring (coil-wound) contacts. The old style is most likely to have the supercap inside that fails.
Fun fact: in the new version the backlight functionality is "backwards". When switched on it starts in high brightness mode, press the button again to dim, and then again to turn it off. In the old version it started in the dim mode.
The dustcaps I've personally never used but make sense for this meter as the lead-insertion detection is optical (IR) through the 4mm contact holes as opposed to the shitty split jacks that are in the 87V. Never had a problem with dust though, but in some environments the dustcaps might be beneficial.
Dang I wish I saw your commitment a day ago. Compared the second hand unit that I just bought to my newer style everyday driver. And sure enough the battery door has the spring contacts. I couldn't figure out why the guy was selling it nearly mint condition for 375 until now. I'll get a new battery door and hope for the best. And yes the backlight is dim on the first button press. Compared to my newer style. Smh FML.
@@engineeredappliancerepair2752 Still a good deal if you ask me. The supercap can be easily replaced.
@@MrDubje Thanks for the reassurance
Great video, I noticed that when measuring the 200pf cap the display was already showing 87pf with nothing connected, that may be why it was so far off, is there a way to zero the display prior to measuring?
It does have nulling, it calls it Delta which accessible from the menu in each mode. I wanted to do the tests with raw measurements to show its out of the box accuracy without compensation.
👍👍
👍
It's the ghosting I can't live with........probably a slow, cheaper type LCD, as well as for the lower current consumption probably.
I own a 289. Recently noticed in DCV it will not stay stable when at rest. 0.0000 it fluctuates as high as .0300v i have zeroed it out with the leads, however resumes to fluctuate as soon as you separate the leads.
No leads same thing. New batteries. Reset it. 🤷♂️ at a loss as it should settle to 0.0000 or very close once you zero it out
High input impedance can result in a floating reading, my old Fluke 8842 was really bad for that.
I noticed the same thing when playing around with my 289 today. It's a very high sensitivity meter. There's a good chance the voltage you are seeing is real. Especially if the weather is dry. I played around with it a bit and coiled up each lead and kept it separated, and laid it on my bench. When moving my hands towards and away from the coiled up leads, I could see voltage rising and falling. Probably from static (or could be capacitive coupling). I wouldn't worry about it. When it's in circuit, this is probably a non-issue.
Move it to LoZ and it will not show ghost voltage
Try new leads?
There is a small 1.5V battery on the mainboard, which konks off every 2 years,
Is it 1,5V? geez... I've heard of that battery, but expected it to be a 3V coincell. In these newer 289's it replaces the supercap backup for date and time (for when you replace the batteries) The little supercaps fail in all the older 289's that have them. You can actually replace them very easily, I found, and it just makes it less annoying to reset the date and time.
Yeah that will be for the RTC function.
@@MrDubje Can you share the part number of the super cap u used?
@@hanial-kiwi503 Mouser part: 555-DSK3R3H224U-HL
Type: RSCSK2243R3D02008U
sir. i have a FLUKE 115. But the miter is automatic off after 3o second .please tel me what can i do .
- power off the meter
- hold the yellow button down and turn the meter back on
- this will disable the automatic power off (the display should read 'Poff' when enabled)
Complete multimeter, fluke 289 have LPF + DATA LOGGING, 👍👍👍👍👍
There are two versions of Fluke 289, one is for local use in China, another one for international use. For local use in China the precision of Fluke 289 is not good enough. Which one do you have?
This review video shows me testing its accuracy.
@@TheDefpom I think that after the fluke289 was made in China, it is better to use an R&S oscilloscope to check the accuracy. Today, Fluke289 accuracy should be the same as UNI-T, Mastech, Brymen products. This means that the price of fluke289 should be the same as that of UNI-T or Brymen, i.e. less than $200 for fluke289.
@@ossaossa4392 uni-t is nowhere near as good as a fluke or brymen, and scopes are not as accurate as you seem to think they are.
As far as I know, currently the Fluke 289 meter has 3 versions for 3 markets. 289 for the US and International, 289 C for the Chinese market, 289 SI for the Japanese market.
They should make it rechargeable like cell phone.
When measuring AC voltage, it does not show frequency on the second screen. I can not believe this.
It however can do it the other way around. Volt. AC mode > F1 > (> Hz, %, ms) > F1.
The big display will be the frequency and the second display the voltage AC.
I know but it should show by default. most dual display multimeters are like this.
Like other commenters said, I think the settings and display mode for each function of the rotary knob should be retained by the meter. Defaults can be hard to get right. What works for one, can be a bother to someone else.
And aside from the batterylife when heavily used the tilting bale is very prone to wear and in a couple of years or earlier when heavily used will just fall from the backshell when trying to use the meter in free standing position on a desk. I found it's always best to have the 289 lean against something sturdy. Do you have one yourself? What do you think?
I was going to buy fluke289 a few months ago but gave up. for the reason I wrote above. This brand sells name only. not worth spending that much money. this is my personal opinion. I also looked at the hioki dt4282 model. very good device but I gave up because there is no bargraph. I am currently using BM869S. I just wish it was autohold but unfortunately there isn't. The newly released BM789 has it, but they removed the dual screen. Anyway, I'm sorry I don't know your language. I cannot write more details.
@@Nazmi_PWM.C Fluke 289 is more complete, most because of the graphic log.
I asked couple months ago for this review and not saying its because of me but ill credit you with delivering anyway.
Thankyou
It could have been your fault, I don’t remember how it came about, the model number came up a couple of times so it was mentioned enough for me to look into it, credit has to go to my contract at Flue/Pomona who watched one of my reviews and picked up on the comment about the 289 as a possible review item.
the LCD appears to have a dead pixel?
Not that I’ve noticed, and I’ve been using it a fair bit.
It looks like a dust
The Fluke 289 came out around 2008. Isn't its technology outdated?
He is best
No it’s a top meter.
@@michaelmitchell8218 which is better?
@@NoMadManKZ depends what you want out a meter? Only spend for what you need. I got a 289 the USA version and it’s great but I do a lot of electronics and it’s a spot on meter for test.
@@michaelmitchell8218 in my opinion this is the best for an electronics engineer. Now I have unit 61e+, ut60s. but I want to buy fluke 289 again
Fluke now is using Duracell batteries. LOL
Show
So here we are in 2022 and we're still using alkaline batteries to power our meters? And you need a screwdriver to replace them? Nothing rechargeable. On a meter this expensive! I'm not seeing ANY gasketing so no IP rating I suppose. For that price you could have a scope with real logging and color display with a lot more features. If it were rechargeable, you could seal it up for IP ratings.
So, I don't get it.
I assume it runs on nimh AA's
Sealing it up and having some bespoke lipo.....not a real fan of that. Lifespan of a lipo is 5 or 10 years. It's always a guess if that part is still available then. Batteries in normal sizes are here to stay. AA's, AAA's and 9V blocks for sure. You buy a meter like this for longer use than 5-10 years.
Also when charging you usually can't use the meter, otherwise it won't get it's CAT ratings (a third lead goes out of the meter..)
It seems that the battery door can be opened with a coin too.
But indeed strange that they provide rubber plugs for the input jacks, but that no gaskets are seen in the rest of the housing.
I prefer the AA cells, the reason being is shipping, I struggle to get anything sent to me that has a battery in it, lithium cells are just about impossible to get posted, even inside a device.
@@mrpetit2 Using 18650-type cells (maybe even one) would solve the replacement problem. I have 3 or 4 pieces of equipment that use those. Or they could custom a LiON like my Flir Cameras. No, this is design laziness. Did you ever notice that Fluke is looking more and more like a Dewalt?
@@DennisMathias it's not design lazyness. This meter was designed in 2008 or so.
How many devices from 2008 you have that use 18650?
That wasn't common tech back then.
Yes the design is old, but usually multimeterdesigns last a long time because they need to be tried and tested (remember that unlike a scope, this is a safety device)
To me a dewalt is looking more and more like a fluke tbh.
Also: AA batteries can be had anywhere: gas stations, supermarkets etc
18650's can't. And AA's will still be around in 30 years. 18650's still have to prove that.
And there still is the charging issue. You have to swap batteries to charge if you want the meter to be use ready, as charging while using is impossible if you want to maintain CAT rating. So there's no benefit for 18650 over Nimh. Nimh is much more common and versitile.
An expensive meter like this, you buy for life, so these things matter.
Ask any fluke guy. They always start with "I have this 27 and it has never let me down" 😁
These are all reasons why fluke meters (and probably most quality meters like keysight and brymen) are all designed fairly conventional. Because it just lasts longer. It's build to be used decades, not years.
If you want something with a lipo, buy a cheap product from a chinese brand, like Uni-T or similar.
@@mrpetit2 "I have this 79 and it has never let me down" 😃
fluke is cheap, they should have put brass inserts in there for the screws, on the other hand if you stay out of the meter inside's it will last forever; no user serviceable parts in there anyway.
Display of this device is of poor quality and got faint within few years 😁😁
My big disappointment with this multimeter. The display is a disaster, small viewing angles, non-contrast, blurry. It's overpriced crap. !!! I will never buy this brand again.
Thanks for this Video❤ I am searching like an crazy for a cover of 4mm Plugs and you have the solution Fluke INPUT CAP Amp Jack Plug 🫶🏽
👍👍