Great review (again) Scott. I have a Fluke 87 Series III that I use as my "traveling" multimeter. It has bounced around in my tool kit for years - great meter and it always works. It looks as if Fluke has continued with the quality and added some features. Thank you for showing it to us.
I have a Fluke 77 that I bought in 1988. It's still going 100% and it's still my go to meter, well above my newer non-Fluke (with fancy shit like Freq & Capacitance). Silly little things always bring me back to my Fluke, like the feel of the knob "click" and the fact that it wakes when turning the knob just ONE click (unlike my new one that requires the knob to cycle all the way to off and back, soooo dumb!)
@@chocholatemilkshake4799 Why do you think that is a problem? I don't have a Fluke 87V handy, I could ask a friend who has that meter. But my Fluke 76 does exactly the same: it buzzes and shows 00.00 VDC.
You got the 87V MAX/E2 Kit. I don't need the kit accessories version, nor another DMM but I just ordered the 87V MAX from Mouser. Abt 600 Sheckels (USD). Stop tormenting us with goodies Scott, it's not fair play.
I used to had the Fluke 117 when i was studying for my diploma in 2009, and 5 years went by with 2 years of using it due to military service in Singapore, the battery had corroded the main board and fluke after sales for end users with no warranty was just injustice Had to get one asap for my university days in 2015. A great guy working in the industrial field retired and sold his 87V to me for like just $350 SGD. Man i knew then it was a steal considering the default price. Learnt my lesson from the corroded battery and always took the 9V battery out when not in use. 9 years now and the meter is still spotless for when i do need to conduct continuity tests and resistance tests as an engineer. Really thankful for that seller who sold me this "tanky" multimeter. His legacy continues hahahah.
My TI-89 Titanium calculator suffered the same faith with Duracell batteries left inside.. the circuit board liquefied into green gunk unrepairable.. I learn my lesson
I couldn't do without my fluke 175,, being my own personal meter it's treated very well..it still has the protective cover on the display 🤓👍 Why do people mistreat their/other peoples tools 🤬
I use a Fluke 287 for work and I don't like it at all. It takes forever to boot It's slow to take measurements The continuity buzzer is far too quiet in a noisy environment. Screen is hard to read without the back light. Unnecessarily heavy and bulky. And far too expensive for what it does. The only positive points: It is tough, and yellow.
I use Klein stuff for most of my day to day (datacom so I’m not too demanding). But that’s MY meters I have to bring to work. My work FINALLY got me proper meters after years and of course I’m going Fluke. We have some nasty messes to clean up so 87v and the LinkIQ in a sweet little kit are gonna help me do that. IM BEYOND EXCITED. The only thing I’m sad about is they’re not mine, but since I’m the only one using them, that’s close enough.
My 2 Fluke 289's and 2 Fluke 87V's came with the same twist guard silicon leads as well as the other bits and bobs. Fluke don't just make a DMM then forget about it, they are constantly looking ways to improve it, either from a manufacturing or end users point of view.
A gentleman suggested Fluke moving manufacturing to China to lower costs. If you study China's approach to business, their National Industrial Planning builds entire subsidized cities around technology areas they want to dominate. It's against WTO rules for governments to directly subsidize Companies but apparently it's OK to finance and subsidies entire cities to attract global businesses and undercut other nations. The Industrial cities entice global Corporations to close facilities outside of China by offering cities with subsidizes streets, roads, shipping, fuel, lower property costs and large tax incentives to manufacturers seeking lower costs. The cities and hold their costs well below market (think National Monopoly) until competitor nation's de-capitalize their industries. Examples include rare earth metals, solar panels, LED lighting, lithium batteries, steel, coal plant construction, basic semiconductors, consumer electronics, etc. Most global Corporation's take the deal. China essentially ignores intellectual property, and later copies the technology and undercuts the prices of the global corporations that relocated to their shores. Bottom line is their formula, based on national subsidized property, works hollowing out the middle class of their competitor nations ( Europe and the US ). Most consumers simply go along with it and believe the Chinese are just another competitor and doing a better job.
They are very competitive no doubt and it's not uncommon for governments to offer some incentives to entice business to setup shop in their district but I'm not sure to what extent they subsidize if at all. Now that China is the manufacturing hub of the world with established supply chain infrastructure and significant cost advantages I'm not sure if they still do that and to what extent. In the film industry many states in North America and even in Europe and China as well offer film credits to entice film productions so likely manufacturing does the same thing but is less transparent about it. Great comment.
Thanks Tom for highlighting this, people (and makers) needs to know this and avoid supporting the CCP. Do more research where products are made. Avoid purchasing if you don’t know the products Country of Origin. I haven’t bought any China-made products in years. It doesn’t have to cost more as long as you just spend some time looking for better alternatives. Thanks.
Yep.. Theses days I wouldn't consider a meter over $35.00 coming without silicon test leads, But hey.. If those awkward leads wont melt by an accidental graze by from a hot Soldering iron tip cooling down from last being used, then I am willing to overlook those stiff awkward leads..
I've owned an original first generation 87 for many years and with the exception of the internal grey LCD mounting tabs breaking, the meter has been trouble free. I 'fixed' the LCD mount by strategically placing a Q-Tip behind the display to keep the zebra strips in firm contact with the PCB and display! I also have gone to the rechargeable 8.4V lithium 9V replacement and find that it works perfectly without error--so a big savings on batteries--especially since I often use the backlight. Since I don't work in explosive or high-voltage environments, I actually use regular AGC-type fuses that are first inserted into salvaged PCB fuse-holder ends, then inserted into the larger Fluke fuse holders. I had to do this for two reasons: First, I'm not smart enough to 'without-fail' remove the leads from the AMPs jacks, and as a result of that, would be living out of a cardboard box, had I paid for all the fancy fuses I would have blown! As far as the leads go, I find that I love the feel an flexibility of the silicone leads but in a dirty-greasy environment, they really collect the gunk. Also, I find the silicone leads harder to clean with the dirt seemingly embedded and rolls along the length ast you try to wipe them down. The PVC ones are much better at resisting collected gunk and are easier to wipe down with bit of your favorite solvent and a rag. At this point with them being $500 on even Amazon, I would not buy another, as they've just priced themselves out of reasonability. Having said that, if I was a new tech with a long career ahead of me, I would seriously consider it since they do seem to last. However, you have to make sure you don't just leave it somewhere or it getting stolen, otherwise cheaper meters make more sense. Finally, Fluke is making a killing out of these because with them being the standard, called out in military and commercial test procedures, they get away with pure robbery. Anyway, great review and insightful analysis of this meter...
That's what happened to me. I go for lunch later at end of the day noticed my Fluke was gone. It was a cheaper model but still you can't leave it lying around. They have pretty good resale value and there's no fingerprint security so it's an easy sell on the used market. Good hack on fixing the LCD mount and rechargeable lithium? You must use your meter alot cause a battery lasts 10+ years for me... or maybe I don't use it enough. 👍
@@jonfreeman9682 sorry to hear about your loss. I always keep mine with me don’t trust anyone unless they’re willing to replace it. I use mine daily so the lithium is a huge savings and even when I get the battery-low indicator, it still shows accurate on the calibrator. I did buy a Kaiweets 208D for $50 on sale. It is good for low light conditions and has a DC amp-clamp which is rare for the price. It has a few rough edges but great for the money 💰
I have never in my life touched a multimeter, have absolutely no idea how to use one obviously and I just want to learn how to test my car battery that's it and for my 1st multimeter I just purchased a $500 dollar multimeter. 💵 lol 😆 thank you this is my 1st video of learning how to use one and learning other valuable information. 😃
Speaking of fixing problems during the long lifetime of the product, why has Fluke not removed the nonsense of the backlight flashing on when you change into and out of high resolution mode (needlessly draining the battery every time)? Maybe you could kindly ask them that for us.
Ya this is the do-it-all all meter. love this machine - love it... work with it, use it at home. for my money not a better meter. to answer the question why silicon leads - because for silicon the conductivity is 1.67 × 10-2 to 10 vs say, hard rubber at 1 × 10-15 to 1 × 10-13 which would be unusable. anything else would be less conductive. although anything else would be more comfortable. So for best results FLUKE went with this material anything else is on the end user.
Today I remove the holster of my Fluke 87V for cleaning, after reinsert the meter I notice the window are broken in the four corners. I don't understand how is posible. New front cover cost me Us$60 dollars. Very fragile. I thing my Fluke 28ii is stronger in any way.
Hi Scott, the screen isn’t visible till 8:13, then you show it and then you turn it away again, we can’t see what your doing mate. Just wanted to let you know mate.🤙🏼🇦🇺
I own several Flukes including the 87V and a couple of Brymens, with a BM869s on backorder from Welectron. The 87V is a fine meter and Flukes are legendary for their quality and durability, but I agree that the Brymen meters are better in many aspects especially bang for buck. If I'm a professional field electrician/technician/engineer whose income and safety are at stake, and where "professional image" to prospective employers or clients means something, I'm packing a Fluke. It's a well respected workhorse known for safety and dependability, and holds its calibration well. If I'm an electronics engineer or tinkerer working at low voltages, then I'd lean more towards Brymen. Well, first I'd have a bench DMM or two, but when I needed the portability of a handheld DMM, it would be Brymen more than anything else. But don't ask me how many DMMs I have, LOL. I have a DMM addiction and collect meters of many brands and price points. At least count I was up around 30.
Legendary meter but expensive. For my non professional applications an el cheapo budget meter works fine but no doubt Fluke is the industry standard for professional use and 87 is one of the most popular. Great review.
Hello, engineer, please teach us the keys and secret codes of Fluke 179 and 78 V series 5 multimeters in the next video. Thank you for your good videos.
When measuring ohms with your calibrator, you MUST program 0 not to check 0 on multimeter, but to perform a zero on multimeter with delta function. If you would have done so, you would have correct results for all ohms ranges. This is true for milliamps also…
It seems REL is your friend when testing small capacitors on these - mine has a residual capacitance of 0.34 nF which I understand is typical. Meanwhile my $40 101 is right at 0!
Bought a second hand (New in box: never used) from an MOD surplus auction site a few years ago. It didn't come with the crock-clips but it did have the pucka silicon leads and a K-Type thermocouple.
While a great multimeter you can get something with much more functions for half the Price. But then again that is not FLUKES claim to the market with this thing, rather than that it is it's ruggedness and long term reputation as a reliable device. Brymen makes some great Meters but they certainly lack Flukes reputation. My friend swears by Beha Amprobe HEXAGON (nowadays a FLUKE company). For me personally o don't really need ruggedness or a godd reputation rather quantity is more important so i've been sticking with UNI-T Although i do have a HIOKI. Which is probably the best metter i have used so far. And oh man those probes that come with it? Pure bliss.
That's one reason why I would like to buy the fluke Because of the Is little tripping noise when testing components But the fluke meters are a little too pricey ... Would like to get my hands on Fluke 289 True-RMS Do you have a review video of that 1 ?
I use a Fluke 287 for work and I don't like it at all. It takes forever to boot It's slow to take measurements The continuity buzzer is far too quiet in a noisy environment. Screen is hard to read without the back light. Unnecessarily heavy and bulky. And far too expensive for what it does. The only positive points: It is tough, and yellow.
I was shocked to see that the Fluke 87v retails on Amazon for a whopping £485 squid! Why on earth would you buy this when you can get a perfectly decent DMM for a tenth of that price? Is accuracy to 3 or 4 significant figures really required by the hobbyist? Wish I could get a freebie like DefPom; must start a TH-cam Vid channel!
Well they use quality components custom designed. No off the shelf el cheapo chips covered with a silicone blob. They're made in USA rigorously tested and comes with calibration certificates. Quality is assured in the most exacting of industrial applications. These are professional precision instruments. For the home hobbyist a 10 quid disposable meter works fine. It's kinda like me driving a used Volkswagen but I still look at new Mercedes knowing I can never afford one. LoL
Because its the ONLY meter you will have to buy, it should last a lifetime. 2nd hand ones go for around £150, I would rather get 2nd hand fluke 87v then settle for a new alternative brand,,
If I’m doing a voltage drop test and if the manufacturer says there should be no more then a 200mV I know this meter is going to give me the confidence I need to fail or pass a component .
Why isn't there a calibration sticker on your mighty Fluke 87V ? Metrawatt multimeters come calibrated and with a calibration sticker from an approved calibration lab. But buy those Metrawatt multimeters with a physical on/off switch only. Once they built meters with an always on real time clock inside whose batteries emptied their guts out into the meter when the batteries got depleted by the real time clock. In Saudi Arabia the product manager responsible for that would get a hand cut off for such bloody nonsense. On longevity I love the first multimeter I bought, a Taiwanese KT 8801 from 1989. It works perfectly still and did not spill out its battery in all of these years. Nearly as good as my HP15C.
I'm very surprized this meter cannot measure AC millivolts. That's very odd for the standard electrician's meter one would think it's capable of reading millivolts AC
It can in fact measure mV AC, (see from 19:33 ) is just that it doesn't have a proper accuracy and perhaps not a dedicated range (on the rotary switch) for it .
Fluke is a greedy JOKE!!!!!!!!!! Insane to pay $AU1.5k for a friggin multimeter!!!!!!!!!!! GARBAGE VALUE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Lost respect for Fluke some years ago now, ...beyond INSANE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ive had my 87V for years i love it my fav. DMM
Beautiful instrument. Built like a tank and very, very accurate. Thanks for the effort! No need to gift wrap it for me, I'll take it as-is LOL.
Great review (again) Scott. I have a Fluke 87 Series III that I use as my "traveling" multimeter. It has bounced around in my tool kit for years - great meter and it always works. It looks as if Fluke has continued with the quality and added some features. Thank you for showing it to us.
I have a Fluke 77 that I bought in 1988. It's still going 100% and it's still my go to meter, well above my newer non-Fluke (with fancy shit like Freq & Capacitance).
Silly little things always bring me back to my Fluke, like the feel of the knob "click" and the fact that it wakes when turning the knob just ONE click
(unlike my new one that requires the knob to cycle all the way to off and back, soooo dumb!)
The most important thing about this meter is that 25 years later it will work the same as the first time.
Hey. Mine Fluke 87V have problem. On "Diode mode" I hear buzzer when connect both cables. Is this normal?
@@chocholatemilkshake4799 Why do you think that is a problem? I don't have a Fluke 87V handy, I could ask a friend who has that meter. But my Fluke 76 does exactly the same: it buzzes and shows 00.00 VDC.
Yes, it is supposed to do that
Absolutely. My dad’s is probably 24-ish years old and it’s still the one we use for anything around the house.
You got the 87V MAX/E2 Kit. I don't need the kit accessories version, nor another DMM but I just ordered the 87V MAX from Mouser. Abt 600 Sheckels (USD). Stop tormenting us with goodies Scott, it's not fair play.
I used to had the Fluke 117 when i was studying for my diploma in 2009, and 5 years went by with 2 years of using it due to military service in Singapore, the battery had corroded the main board and fluke after sales for end users with no warranty was just injustice
Had to get one asap for my university days in 2015. A great guy working in the industrial field retired and sold his 87V to me for like just $350 SGD.
Man i knew then it was a steal considering the default price.
Learnt my lesson from the corroded battery and always took the 9V battery out when not in use.
9 years now and the meter is still spotless for when i do need to conduct continuity tests and resistance tests as an engineer.
Really thankful for that seller who sold me this "tanky" multimeter. His legacy continues hahahah.
My TI-89 Titanium calculator suffered the same faith with Duracell batteries left inside.. the circuit board liquefied into green gunk unrepairable.. I learn my lesson
Proud Owner Fluke 87V MAX
Buy once cry once, glad it's going to last a lifetime, Cause it'll probably take me that long to learn its capabilities
I couldn't do without my fluke 175,, being my own personal meter it's treated very well..it still has the protective cover on the display 🤓👍
Why do people mistreat their/other peoples tools 🤬
Woo, my name comes up in a Defpom video! I'm famous! I need to call my mother!
I use a Fluke 287 for work and I don't like it at all.
It takes forever to boot
It's slow to take measurements
The continuity buzzer is far too quiet in a noisy environment.
Screen is hard to read without the back light.
Unnecessarily heavy and bulky.
And far too expensive for what it does.
The only positive points:
It is tough, and yellow.
Thank you, that is exactly what I needed to know.
I use Klein stuff for most of my day to day (datacom so I’m not too demanding). But that’s MY meters I have to bring to work. My work FINALLY got me proper meters after years and of course I’m going Fluke. We have some nasty messes to clean up so 87v and the LinkIQ in a sweet little kit are gonna help me do that. IM BEYOND EXCITED. The only thing I’m sad about is they’re not mine, but since I’m the only one using them, that’s close enough.
Love my old school fluke 87!
My 2 Fluke 289's and 2 Fluke 87V's came with the same twist guard silicon leads
as well as the other bits and bobs. Fluke don't just make a DMM then forget about it, they are constantly looking ways to improve it, either from a manufacturing or end users point of view.
A gentleman suggested Fluke moving manufacturing to China to lower costs. If you study China's approach to business, their National Industrial Planning builds entire subsidized cities around technology areas they want to dominate. It's against WTO rules for governments to directly subsidize Companies but apparently it's OK to finance and subsidies entire cities to attract global businesses and undercut other nations. The Industrial cities entice global Corporations to close facilities outside of China by offering cities with subsidizes streets, roads, shipping, fuel, lower property costs and large tax incentives to manufacturers seeking lower costs. The cities and hold their costs well below market (think National Monopoly) until competitor nation's de-capitalize their industries. Examples include rare earth metals, solar panels, LED lighting, lithium batteries, steel, coal plant construction, basic semiconductors, consumer electronics, etc.
Most global Corporation's take the deal. China essentially ignores intellectual property, and later copies the technology and undercuts the prices of the global corporations that relocated to their shores. Bottom line is their formula, based on national subsidized property, works hollowing out the middle class of their competitor nations ( Europe and the US ). Most consumers simply go along with it and believe the Chinese are just another competitor and doing a better job.
They are very competitive no doubt and it's not uncommon for governments to offer some incentives to entice business to setup shop in their district but I'm not sure to what extent they subsidize if at all. Now that China is the manufacturing hub of the world with established supply chain infrastructure and significant cost advantages I'm not sure if they still do that and to what extent. In the film industry many states in North America and even in Europe and China as well offer film credits to entice film productions so likely manufacturing does the same thing but is less transparent about it. Great comment.
not for models 83-87s made in USA
Thanks Tom for highlighting this, people (and makers) needs to know this and avoid supporting the CCP. Do more research where products are made. Avoid purchasing if you don’t know the products Country of Origin. I haven’t bought any China-made products in years. It doesn’t have to cost more as long as you just spend some time looking for better alternatives. Thanks.
I use rechargeable 9V batteries in my meters. Both NiMH and Li ion.
Yep.. Theses days I wouldn't consider a meter over $35.00 coming without silicon test leads, But hey.. If those awkward leads wont melt by an accidental graze by from a hot Soldering iron tip cooling down from last being used, then I am willing to overlook those stiff awkward leads..
You can buy better probes. They're not too expensive.
I've owned an original first generation 87 for many years and with the exception of the internal grey LCD mounting tabs breaking, the meter has been trouble free. I 'fixed' the LCD mount by strategically placing a Q-Tip behind the display to keep the zebra strips in firm contact with the PCB and display!
I also have gone to the rechargeable 8.4V lithium 9V replacement and find that it works perfectly without error--so a big savings on batteries--especially since I often use the backlight.
Since I don't work in explosive or high-voltage environments, I actually use regular AGC-type fuses that are first inserted into salvaged PCB fuse-holder ends, then inserted into the larger Fluke fuse holders. I had to do this for two reasons: First, I'm not smart enough to 'without-fail' remove the leads from the AMPs jacks, and as a result of that, would be living out of a cardboard box, had I paid for all the fancy fuses I would have blown!
As far as the leads go, I find that I love the feel an flexibility of the silicone leads but in a dirty-greasy environment, they really collect the gunk. Also, I find the silicone leads harder to clean with the dirt seemingly embedded and rolls along the length ast you try to wipe them down. The PVC ones are much better at resisting collected gunk and are easier to wipe down with bit of your favorite solvent and a rag.
At this point with them being $500 on even Amazon, I would not buy another, as they've just priced themselves out of reasonability. Having said that, if I was a new tech with a long career ahead of me, I would seriously consider it since they do seem to last. However, you have to make sure you don't just leave it somewhere or it getting stolen, otherwise cheaper meters make more sense. Finally, Fluke is making a killing out of these because with them being the standard, called out in military and commercial test procedures, they get away with pure robbery.
Anyway, great review and insightful analysis of this meter...
That's what happened to me. I go for lunch later at end of the day noticed my Fluke was gone. It was a cheaper model but still you can't leave it lying around. They have pretty good resale value and there's no fingerprint security so it's an easy sell on the used market. Good hack on fixing the LCD mount and rechargeable lithium? You must use your meter alot cause a battery lasts 10+ years for me... or maybe I don't use it enough. 👍
@@jonfreeman9682 sorry to hear about your loss. I always keep mine with me don’t trust anyone unless they’re willing to replace it. I use mine daily so the lithium is a huge savings and even when I get the battery-low indicator, it still shows accurate on the calibrator.
I did buy a Kaiweets 208D for $50 on sale. It is good for low light conditions and has a DC amp-clamp which is rare for the price.
It has a few rough edges but great for the money 💰
One of the best out there and consistent
I have never in my life touched a multimeter, have absolutely no idea how to use one obviously and I just want to learn how to test my car battery that's it and for my 1st multimeter I just purchased a $500 dollar multimeter. 💵 lol 😆 thank you this is my 1st video of learning how to use one and learning other valuable information. 😃
If you got this fluke (or any fluke) it will last you decades.
@Defpom's Electronics Repair I bought a Fluke 87 V, the one featured in this video. 😊
Well, a fifty dollar meter would have been more than sufficient for testing car battery voltage. 😥
@@douglas2lee929 you mean a $4 meter
I got the TL175 silicone leads in the box when I bought mine 87 V some years ago.
Nice
Th 87 has been THE industrial standard for decades, dont bother buying anything else for day to day measuring.
Speaking of fixing problems during the long lifetime of the product, why has Fluke not removed the nonsense of the backlight flashing on when you change into and out of high resolution mode (needlessly draining the battery every time)? Maybe you could kindly ask them that for us.
Ya this is the do-it-all all meter. love this machine - love it... work with it, use it at home. for my money not a better meter. to answer the question why silicon leads - because for silicon the conductivity is 1.67 × 10-2 to 10 vs say, hard rubber at 1 × 10-15 to 1 × 10-13 which would be unusable. anything else would be less conductive. although anything else would be more comfortable. So for best results FLUKE went with this material anything else is on the end user.
Today I remove the holster of my Fluke 87V for cleaning, after reinsert the meter I notice the window are broken in the four corners.
I don't understand how is posible.
New front cover cost me Us$60 dollars.
Very fragile.
I thing my Fluke 28ii is stronger in any way.
Hi Scott, the screen isn’t visible till 8:13, then you show it and then you turn it away again, we can’t see what your doing mate.
Just wanted to let you know mate.🤙🏼🇦🇺
Owner of a Fluke 87V here. To be perfectly honest, I think the Brymen BM869 is a better and less expensive alternative.
Where do you buy brymen in US?
I own several Flukes including the 87V and a couple of Brymens, with a BM869s on backorder from Welectron. The 87V is a fine meter and Flukes are legendary for their quality and durability, but I agree that the Brymen meters are better in many aspects especially bang for buck. If I'm a professional field electrician/technician/engineer whose income and safety are at stake, and where "professional image" to prospective employers or clients means something, I'm packing a Fluke. It's a well respected workhorse known for safety and dependability, and holds its calibration well. If I'm an electronics engineer or tinkerer working at low voltages, then I'd lean more towards Brymen. Well, first I'd have a bench DMM or two, but when I needed the portability of a handheld DMM, it would be Brymen more than anything else.
But don't ask me how many DMMs I have, LOL. I have a DMM addiction and collect meters of many brands and price points. At least count I was up around 30.
30 metres! I'm starting to collect them too. Hope my wife does not read your comment....@@dwmorris
I mean same with trucks right? Why an F150 when you can get a loaded Frontier? Different expectations.
Legendary meter but expensive. For my non professional applications an el cheapo budget meter works fine but no doubt Fluke is the industry standard for professional use and 87 is one of the most popular. Great review.
Hello, engineer, please teach us the keys and secret codes of Fluke 179 and 78 V series 5 multimeters in the next video. Thank you for your good videos.
When measuring ohms with your calibrator, you MUST program 0 not to check 0 on multimeter, but to perform a zero on multimeter with delta function. If you would have done so, you would have correct results for all ohms ranges. This is true for milliamps also…
At work I use a 787 and love it as well.
love the 4-20 mA capability, but I rather use separate current injector for commissioning activity. So I can calibrate each other.
The Fluke 87v 600 volt ac range has a resolution of 0.1 mA that measures ac millibolts very well.
Sorry, millivolts.
It seems REL is your friend when testing small capacitors on these - mine has a residual capacitance of 0.34 nF which I understand is typical. Meanwhile my $40 101 is right at 0!
Bought a second hand (New in box: never used) from an MOD surplus auction site a few years ago. It didn't come with the crock-clips but it did have the pucka silicon leads and a K-Type thermocouple.
Flule👑👍👍👍👍
While a great multimeter you can get something with much more functions for half the Price. But then again that is not FLUKES claim to the market with this thing, rather than that it is it's ruggedness and long term reputation as a reliable device. Brymen makes some great Meters but they certainly lack Flukes reputation. My friend swears by Beha Amprobe HEXAGON (nowadays a FLUKE company). For me personally o don't really need ruggedness or a godd reputation rather quantity is more important so i've been sticking with UNI-T Although i do have a HIOKI. Which is probably the best metter i have used so far. And oh man those probes that come with it? Pure bliss.
Curious on how much this multimeter costs from where you are from? In Australia, this meter costs over $1000.
It cost me $500 US 20 years ago. I use it for automotive testing. It’s the only meter I trust for any testing.
That's one reason why I would like to buy the fluke Because of the Is little tripping noise when testing components But the fluke meters are a little too pricey ... Would like to get my hands on Fluke 289 True-RMS Do you have a review video of that 1 ?
Nope I don’t have any 200 series… I might ask them for one, they might say yes, if we’re lucky!
@@TheDefpom OK that would be awesome to see I'm curious about Diode mode With pro master leads lol
Am interested in the 287 if you ever get the chance
I use a Fluke 287 for work and I don't like it at all.
It takes forever to boot
It's slow to take measurements
The continuity buzzer is far too quiet in a noisy environment.
Screen is hard to read without the back light.
Unnecessarily heavy and bulky.
And far too expensive for what it does.
The only positive points:
It is tough, and yellow.
cool!
Exelent video, & Exelent Tester FLUKE 87 V, tks 🎩
I was shocked to see that the Fluke 87v retails on Amazon for a whopping £485 squid! Why on earth would you buy this when you can get a perfectly decent DMM for a tenth of that price? Is accuracy to 3 or 4 significant figures really required by the hobbyist? Wish I could get a freebie like DefPom; must start a TH-cam Vid channel!
Well they use quality components custom designed. No off the shelf el cheapo chips covered with a silicone blob. They're made in USA rigorously tested and comes with calibration certificates. Quality is assured in the most exacting of industrial applications. These are professional precision instruments. For the home hobbyist a 10 quid disposable meter works fine. It's kinda like me driving a used Volkswagen but I still look at new Mercedes knowing I can never afford one. LoL
Because its the ONLY meter you will have to buy, it should last a lifetime. 2nd hand ones go for around £150, I would rather get 2nd hand fluke 87v then settle for a new alternative brand,,
Fluke 17b+ please.
If I’m doing a voltage drop test and if the manufacturer says there should be no more then a 200mV I know this meter is going to give me the confidence I need to fail or pass a component .
Why isn't there a calibration sticker on your mighty Fluke 87V ? Metrawatt multimeters come calibrated and with a calibration sticker from an approved calibration lab.
But buy those Metrawatt multimeters with a physical on/off switch only. Once they built meters with an always on real time clock inside whose batteries emptied their
guts out into the meter when the batteries got depleted by the real time clock. In Saudi Arabia the product manager responsible for that would get a hand cut off
for such bloody nonsense. On longevity I love the first multimeter I bought, a Taiwanese KT 8801 from 1989. It works perfectly still and did not spill out its battery
in all of these years. Nearly as good as my HP15C.
The fluke has a traceable calibration included with it.
@@TheDefpom : How do you know when this instrument has to be calibrated again ? There is no due date on its front or on its back.
I think silicon has a melting point at 4-450F
I'm very surprized this meter cannot measure AC millivolts. That's very odd for the standard electrician's meter one would think it's capable of reading millivolts AC
It can in fact measure mV AC, (see from 19:33 ) is just that it doesn't have a proper accuracy and perhaps not a dedicated range (on the rotary switch) for it .
@@ovi_4 ahh yes that makes sense.
Fluke is a greedy JOKE!!!!!!!!!! Insane to pay $AU1.5k for a friggin multimeter!!!!!!!!!!! GARBAGE VALUE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Lost respect for Fluke some years ago now, ...beyond INSANE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
TOO MUCH WAFFLING.