What makes a '70 Mach 1 really desirable, other than the 428CJ model, is the M code. This is a 351C 4V and when combined with a toploader 4spd and factory Hurst shifter makes for an awesome combo. I think you were smart to pass on this one. There are nicer examples out there that might cost you more upfront but a whole lot cheaper overall in the end. Nice video thanks.
Hey Parker! Thanks for sharing another fun filled video, whether or not some of the viewers don’t like particular brands or models of cars, you can’t please everyone all of the time!
You definitely made a big mistake with not trying to buy that '70 Mach 1. These things are harder to come by especially in running and driving condition.
Looks like a nice car. Invest in a special body magnet. It will give you a good idea how much bondo/ body filler is behind the paint. Rust can be expensive to fix. I still have my 65 Mustang Fastback w/ 351w and a 67 Shelby GT 500. Both are original California cars. Rust free.
That's a basic Mach I with no performance options at all, I wouldn't pay 25 for that one especially if you were looking to flip it, I own a 70 Mach I that I bought from the original owner in 1978 still has the original yellow paint with black striped hood, 351C4V, 4 speed, shaker hood, window louvers, A/C, fold down rear seat, hood locks, which are all options that make it desirable and valuable and that car didn't really have any of those things except the hood locks.
At limits of "Fair Condition" by Hagerty which is around $25k. Without taking it to an appraiser and trusted mechanic familiar with these its hard to say actual value. What adds curb appeal is the "Twisted Tornado" grabber orange. Looking at a 1970 myself which is fastback(302?) with 351W? being used as a shelf in garage like most who have no time to fix. Its a auto trans with 3 layers of paint. Hagerty says 10.5k in fair condition but who knows what it needs or body shape until the layers. Sometimes the paint makes a good bondo or filler. My guess is no more than 5k. Don't wanna upset the guy, but with most of these cars if running and in descent shape its worth it, but if it needs a ton of work..$$$$$. What's the market? What's big in some areas is Restomods, where you see suspension upgrades, engine crate Coyote, Tremec 5/6spd trans for about 25k+ th-cam.com/video/3rArT4BIR-E/w-d-xo.html " If you want drop in the coyote monster engine, the rest of the car might be an issue, so you'll have to remove it" A joke if you watch the video.
If the buyer of the Mustang bought it to have a cool car, the price was okay. He didn't steal it, but he didn't get his head blown off either. It'd be tough to make on it. To get it into the kind of condition that would bring top money would likely cost you more than any profit you might see. Noting could be worse than spending $15,000 to increase the value of a hypothetical car by $7,500. Bud Faubel is a name that any Mopar enthusiast should know. He drove the "Hemi Honker". The first car that carried that name, if I remember correctly, was a '64 Dodge 330. A Hemi powered factory lightweight with aluminum fenders, doors, and bumpers, as well as plexiglass windows. By '65 he was running an altered wheelbase car with even more lightweight bits and a Hilborn injected Hemi. Bud set a couple of national records, had around 200 wins, and close to 15 track records. He's in the NHRA Hall of Fame, and that Chrysler is one sweet car.
A good condition Mach 1 should go for 40 to 50k depending on options. That car looked like it needed some hidden rust replaced in it though. Its hard to tell without seeing it in person but 20k sounds fair as long as it doesn't need to be stripped down and repainted.
To get the car to next level, youd spend another $25k.....unless you did work yourself. Its not the original paint color, not AC, NOT A "M" code engine, and no upgrade in options. All that hurts value and cost big to fix. Rust is the BIG unknowh which could make that $25k MORE.
Being just a Chevy guy, I want to cry every time I look at those shock towers and imagine the nightmare of getting headers to fit in such a tight spot. Maybe I'm wrong, but.....
Cheap headers like Hooker/ Heddman are junk. If you really want a quality header go with JBA, Ford Power Train, Sanderson Doug Thorley. I used JBA headers for my 351w in my 65 Mustang Fastback. $1100 coated, fits perfectly.
Take a look under the hood of a 68 Mustang with a 428 CJ FE, you wanna talk about Headers, Spark Plugs will take a while to change on those CJ FE,s ! You're Definitely Not Wrong about that.
Way over the top for that car and if you have been doing these cars long enough and not blabbing on a youtube channel trying to make dollars you know that those shoddy repairs on the aprons should really make you go looking at the real trouble spots on these cars which you did not. Id bet dollars to doughnuts that car needs a full restoration to stop mother nature before she takes more of it. 20 would be tops considering youre looking at 25K as a bottom dollar figure to get it right. So that puts it right at 45 and for 45 you can buy what this one would be if fixed. The mustang market has gone sideways largely because of the internet and people not having half a clue about what they are looking at . The prices are upside down considering what most of these cars need to be set right. I am not talking a "Concourse" car , I am talking a sold car that isnt suffering further decay that you simply cannot see.
Super bird when I was a kid at a Plymouth dealer there was two of them in the showroom I remember seeing them in 1970 one of the guys that sold one of them in 1970 I seen him at a car show he said one was B5 blue the other was lime green and he said they were 446 packs with automatic transmissions and they came without radios and they had to install them at the dealer I do not know if all came like that but them two came with no radios and they messed up and put the antenna on the wrong side on one of them into this day because they know we're both of them are that one still has the antenna in the wrong spot and as far as they know that's the only one that's ever been installed that way out of all the superbirds
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Agree, not enough profit to flip, but at a great price to own and drive. Love the color.
Great info! Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
What makes a '70 Mach 1 really desirable, other than the 428CJ model, is the M code. This is a 351C 4V and when combined with a toploader 4spd and factory Hurst shifter makes for an awesome combo. I think you were smart to pass on this one. There are nicer examples out there that might cost you more upfront but a whole lot cheaper overall in the end. Nice video thanks.
Hey Parker! Thanks for sharing another fun filled video, whether or not some of the viewers don’t like particular brands or models of cars, you can’t please everyone all of the time!
Another great video keep em coming
Love the Road Runner! What I'd give to drive that around town.
You definitely made a big mistake with not trying to buy that '70 Mach 1. These things are harder to come by especially in running and driving condition.
Looks like a nice car. Invest in a special body magnet. It will give you a good idea how much bondo/ body filler is behind the paint. Rust can be expensive to fix.
I still have my 65 Mustang Fastback w/ 351w and a 67 Shelby GT 500. Both are original California cars. Rust free.
Thanks for the extra Mopar Content. Please find some AMC Rambler
Great vid.. recently got a 69 Mach one and if wondering if you could do it detailed description of one ( preferably 390)!!
That's a basic Mach I with no performance options at all, I wouldn't pay 25 for that one especially if you were looking to flip it, I own a 70 Mach I that I bought from the original owner in 1978 still has the original yellow paint with black striped hood, 351C4V, 4 speed, shaker hood, window louvers, A/C, fold down rear seat, hood locks, which are all options that make it desirable and valuable and that car didn't really have any of those things except the hood locks.
I always liked that color yellow. That car looks very similar to the Mustang from "Bobby Jo and the Outlaw"
The 70 was one of the heavyweights of stangs but was a great looking ride.
At limits of "Fair Condition" by Hagerty which is around $25k. Without taking it to an appraiser and trusted mechanic familiar with these its hard to say actual value. What adds curb appeal is the "Twisted Tornado" grabber orange. Looking at a 1970 myself which is fastback(302?) with 351W? being used as a shelf in garage like most who have no time to fix. Its a auto trans with 3 layers of paint. Hagerty says 10.5k in fair condition but who knows what it needs or body shape until the layers. Sometimes the paint makes a good bondo or filler. My guess is no more than 5k. Don't wanna upset the guy, but with most of these cars if running and in descent shape its worth it, but if it needs a ton of work..$$$$$. What's the market? What's big in some areas is Restomods, where you see suspension upgrades, engine crate Coyote, Tremec 5/6spd trans for about 25k+ th-cam.com/video/3rArT4BIR-E/w-d-xo.html " If you want drop in the coyote monster engine, the rest of the car might be an issue, so you'll have to remove it" A joke if you watch the video.
My numbers matching 1970 340 duster is sassy grass green. Ive been offered 20K for it and said no.
I was 20 y/o in 1970. Bought my first new car, a 70 Mach I. Had the 351C 4V, automatic, no air, was told it had 300 hp. Cost me $3200.
Molars are my favorite but I want one done
I have a 1969 M code 351W car with the R code for San Jose in Black Jade.
If the buyer of the Mustang bought it to have a cool car, the price was okay. He didn't steal it, but he didn't get his head blown off either. It'd be tough to make on it. To get it into the kind of condition that would bring top money would likely cost you more than any profit you might see. Noting could be worse than spending $15,000 to increase the value of a hypothetical car by $7,500.
Bud Faubel is a name that any Mopar enthusiast should know. He drove the "Hemi Honker". The first car that carried that name, if I remember correctly, was a '64 Dodge 330. A Hemi powered factory lightweight with aluminum fenders, doors, and bumpers, as well as plexiglass windows. By '65 he was running an altered wheelbase car with even more lightweight bits and a Hilborn injected Hemi. Bud set a couple of national records, had around 200 wins, and close to 15 track records. He's in the NHRA Hall of Fame, and that Chrysler is one sweet car.
Love it molars better
A good condition Mach 1 should go for 40 to 50k depending on options. That car looked like it needed some hidden rust replaced in it though. Its hard to tell without seeing it in person but 20k sounds fair as long as it doesn't need to be stripped down and repainted.
i am in Australia and a GM guy all my 63 years BUT i am partial to a good 67 to 70 mustang
To get the car to next level, youd spend another $25k.....unless you did work yourself. Its not the original paint color, not AC, NOT A "M" code engine, and no upgrade in options. All that hurts value and cost big to fix. Rust is the BIG unknowh which could make that $25k MORE.
You save yourself many headaches not buying mustang
The Charger purple color is “plum crazy”
Being just a Chevy guy, I want to cry every time I look at those shock towers and imagine the nightmare of getting headers to fit in such a tight spot. Maybe I'm wrong, but.....
Cheap headers like Hooker/ Heddman are junk. If you really want a quality header go with JBA, Ford Power Train, Sanderson Doug Thorley. I used JBA headers for my 351w in my 65 Mustang Fastback. $1100 coated, fits perfectly.
Take a look under the hood of a 68 Mustang with a 428 CJ FE, you wanna talk about Headers, Spark Plugs will take a while to change on those CJ FE,s ! You're Definitely Not Wrong about that.
That rust old was a giveaway. It's why the car has been sprayed with undercoat.
2 barrel carb on a Mach. Never should have left the factory that way.
not enough meat left on the bone to make profit on the Mach 1
You should have bought it
Good decision to pass on it.
Way over the top for that car and if you have been doing these cars long enough and not blabbing on a youtube channel trying to make dollars you know that those shoddy repairs on the aprons should really make you go looking at the real trouble spots on these cars which you did not. Id bet dollars to doughnuts that car needs a full restoration to stop mother nature before she takes more of it. 20 would be tops considering youre looking at 25K as a bottom dollar figure to get it right. So that puts it right at 45 and for 45 you can buy what this one would be if fixed. The mustang market has gone sideways largely because of the internet and people not having half a clue about what they are looking at . The prices are upside down considering what most of these cars need to be set right. I am not talking a "Concourse" car , I am talking a sold car that isnt suffering further decay that you simply cannot see.
When I see that junk undercoating, that's it for me. Not interested at any price.
Plymouth Stupid Bird.
?
Super bird when I was a kid at a Plymouth dealer there was two of them in the showroom I remember seeing them in 1970 one of the guys that sold one of them in 1970 I seen him at a car show he said one was B5 blue the other was lime green and he said they were 446 packs with automatic transmissions and they came without radios and they had to install them at the dealer I do not know if all came like that but them two came with no radios and they messed up and put the antenna on the wrong side on one of them into this day because they know we're both of them are that one still has the antenna in the wrong spot and as far as they know that's the only one that's ever been installed that way out of all the superbirds