Nice trailer.When you talk about hauling multiple loads of material back and forth on a job with your truck and trailer you really got my attention.I always keep a tri-axle driver in my back pocket.I find that when pricing flat rates,it's not worth it on a bigger job to waist time running around with a smaller rig to get material.I found it's better to call in the bigger jobs to a dump truck while staying on site and working it in.It's also more cost competive on a flat bid against others.You can also mark up on material being delivered to account for the time you spend orchestrating the job.It could be the difference in getting the job vs. the competition who is more efficient.Just my experience.
I agree. Depending on location, if it is more than a couple of trips, it make sense to call a big truck I have another video talking about that very thing: What Owning a dump Trailer is REALLY Like- Watching this Before you Buy th-cam.com/video/npsT3Gsls2A/w-d-xo.html
From what I've seen trailer manufacturers are putting the axles in the same place on gooseneck as bumper pulls. My dad had to move the front axle behind the back axle on his hay hauler to get it to pull right. Think goose necks are 2/1 weight distribution and bumper pulls are 5/1.
I think you made the right choice with a bumper pull. Like you said. They weigh less and you can still used the bed of your truck if needed. Very nice trailer.
Thanks for sharing Brock. I had to buy a second truck recently when my truck blew a fuel pump and I can't get it in the shop for over a month to get fixed. Bought an old 00 7.3 Powerstroke for a backup truck.
What we have encountered is that our bumper pull trailers get stolen more frequently than our gooseneck trailers. We have never had a gooseneck trailer taken, but have had several bumper pull trailers taken. So, gooseneck has become a leading option for us just to try to deter the thieves. Now if I could find a way to stop them from stealing the catalytic convertors. So far this year, over $20,000 in replacement cost for convertors.
@@RockhillfarmYT Mechanical contractor. We do everything except iron work, which we sub out. We have had three trailers stolen from our electrical division, one from our laborers, and one from our industrial division. The most recent theft was five convertors and prior to that they stole a F150 from a jobsite. We have recovered all of them, yet the F150 was totaled when we got it back. We have been working with area police departments on effective methods to reduce the theft. The sad part, some of the solutions cost as much or more than just replacing the item. The simple solution we found with trailers, most vehicles/trucks aren't setup to tow gooseneck trailers, so that is a cost effective method for us to reduce that potential.
@@BradMyers That’s so frustrating to hear. As I build up equipment and trailers I’ve been expanding my parking area next to the house. I’m on a pretty steep slope so that’s not an easy thing. One thing I want to add soon is heavy gates. I’ve got woods around 3 sides, so a heavy gate would slow people down and make them work pretty hard to get a vehicle in/trailers out. It’s a shame you have to work so hard to keep people from helping themselves these days.
@@jeremyj612 In our three many properties we have added over 20 cameras. Now we get to watch the thieves steal everything from multiple angles. :) We are in the process of adding cameras that are monitored by our alarm company that will notify police if they see someone on our property. Last month, we fixed two fences where they had cut through. We have another fence that we have given up fixing, they just stop along the highway, get dropped off, run up to the fence, cut right through, and into the property they go. Yet, with us and surrounding businesses adding monitored cameras, we are hoping to catch a few of them and bring this to the end. So far in three years, we have only caught four different individuals. Sad part is that if these people would go to the local union hall, they are all looking to higher people because their benches are clear.
Thanks for the video. You mentioned angle iron but you have an I beam frame. I like the weight rated hitch, never saw one of these. Thanks of the info.
0:53: ⚙️ Brock discusses the features of his new 16-foot dump trailer and explains his decision to trade in his old one, emphasizing the importance of the three-way door. 5:01: 🚚 Review of features of a new dump trailer, including tarp cover, side steps, and stake pockets. 9:16: 🚚 Evaluation of weigh safe hitch and tire suitability for hauling trailers, with a discount offer included. 13:36: 🚚 Consider the appropriate dump trailer size based on the type of material being hauled and towing capacity. Smaller trailers may suffice for dense materials like rocks, while larger trailers are necessary for loose materials or heavy equipment. 17:51: 🚜 Struggling with trailer options and equipment needs, selling old trailers for debt relief. Recapped using Tammy AI
With 14klb on the axles a bumper pull is the right choice. I got a gooseneck dump as my dually truck can tow 24klb that way. Trailer weighs 6klb so available payload is nine tons. I also got a 16ft box with ramps so equipment will fit and I have a deckover flatbed, also a 24klb gooseneck, so we seem to aim the same direction. I borrow a light mower trailer from a friend. People don't borrow goosenecks.)
Great information and I've now subscribed to your channel! I agree with the bumper pull for the weight savings to haul more material. What I disagree with is pulling 9700 lbs. with a half-ton. I've always owned 3/4-1 tons and am a firm believer in having it and not needing it vs. the opposite. I recently owned my first half-ton pick-up and though it had a 9400# towing capacity, I didn't trust the handling characteristics when pulling 7500#. the pulling power isn't the issue, it's the brakes, suspension and transmission. If I were to have to make an evasive maneuver for whatever reason, I believe the trailer with payload has control. I have returned to a 3/4 ton and when pulling the identical set-up, I feel more in control of the load. This is my opinion and own experience, not saying the half-ton can't do it in a pinch on a short distance, it's a safety thing!
Yeah, my half ton truck was brand-new and it had upgraded towing package and the air ride suspension so that a 12,000 pound tow rating. I did not feel comfortable with that though and I now have a three-quarter ton.
GM Sir….. I went with the Lamar16 foot GN….. I did a similar review on my channel. Just purchased a Ram 2500 to pull it. I added a step on the right side as well. Good analysis on GN vs bumper pull.
Works great and doesn’t cost that much more than other premium drop hitches For 15% off of your Weigh Safe order use code: rockhill www.weigh-safe.com/
Badass trailer brother. Glad I found this channel. I only have gooseneck for work and I feel like they're better all around. But each person has there own opinion. Shit if it works it works lol
On the subject of bomper pull vs gooseneck: You can pull a bumper pull with a van, a SUV and a tractor. There are rigs you hook to the 3-pt which makes it possible to pull a gooseneck with your tractor, but it's an extra accessory you have to buy.
Hey Brock, good video.. I went through the same thought process as you, and I haul a compact tractor and a mini skidsteer. I moved from a bumper pull 14' 14k, to a bumper pull 16ft, 18k trailer. Both of my trailer are scissor lift. My personal thoughts are... I sould have bought a telescoping lift.. I didnt initially because my bigger tractor had to put the bucket over the front to fit.. but i sold that machine. The telescoping hoist pretty much eliminates any worry of not being able to dump. Heavily loaded, I wish i purchased a goose.. the tongue weight can add up fast hauling logs, and tree chips..when hauling dirt, its easy to balance the weight over the trailer axles, as it will max out on weight long before cube. Hauling concrete tear outs, it can get tongue heavy. The trade off of a bumper pull being more available to pull with other vehicles, is prob a wash with being able to haul more per load with a goose. A side note, your empty trailer may transfer 10% to your truck, but loaded can be a way different story. As far as your tires, IMO 10 ply load range E are the bare minimum. For your rim size I would go to 14 ply when you change tires. I went with 16ply on 17.5s, but im running 8k axles. Last, I bought a Diamond C, and while its prob much more expensive than most, I chose it because the deck height is one of the lowest ive seen.. 21 inches i think. That matters to me for both equipment loading, and loading over the side with the mini skid or subcompact machine. My old dump trailer had a 28" deck height, and it was steep to load equipment.. I dont know much about the East Texas brand trailer either, but I hope it works well for you. I would maybe see if the dealer can do something about those stake pockets though.. they dont seem useable the way they are. Cheers
Thank you for that. Lot of good information The one comment about the 10% trailer weight on the tongue when it is loaded, I have actually done a full video just measuring that and with my previous dump trailer I got between 10 and 11% on the tongue at all times. That was with me making sure that the weight was properly centered. I’m going out right now to see how it works out hauling my skid loader in the new dump trailer and I’m interested to see if I’m still getting the 10%. May have to try it forward and backward to get my weight in the right place. Normally I would just eyeball that to where it looks centered but now I will try to move the skid steer back-and-forth until I get that 10 to 12% number From that point on I will know where I want to Park it Weigh Safe Trailer Hitch Test - Check Your Tongue Weight In Seconds th-cam.com/video/fuUeut6ybk8/w-d-xo.html
My Texas pride Trailers all came with 14ply tires with 8 thousand pound axels 14'gooseneck with telescopic joist is that to go much better lifting capabilities. Congratulations on your new trailer.
I have a ETT gooseneck lowboy that has those same ramps and I bent my ramps a little loading my Kubota 75-2 skid steer. I ended up welding 1/2" by 2" flat bar down the sides inside the 3" channel and I did cut off those little ears that hook on to the trailer and welded on heavy angle iron because the ears put a lot of weight in a little area on the trailer and I was having issues with it bending the lip on the back of the trailer. So keep an eye on them.
Listening to you Brock, I think you made a better argument to have gotten the gooseneck lol. The ability to be used on “somebody else’s truck” being one of them, in my opinion(can I borrow….). Looks like a well built trailer though, sure it will serve you well👍
A couple things, for me as a private individual not using it for work, that might affect my be decision would be that I WANT a gooseneck because of the fact not everyone can pull it. When i bought my flatbed trailer I bought a gooseneck just for that reason. I'm not super concerned about weight of the neck or extra length of a bigger box, being that I normally tow with an F450, but have an F250 and an International 8100 for backup if something happens to it. I would much rather have the bigger box for equipment room and balancing the load than worrying about the extra weight.
Fasten a small d ring to the center of the tarp bar, when your going to load dirt/sand/rock clip a rope to the ring and you can tull the tarp out from the center.also, instead of mounting your plate down low, weld 2 studs to the panel of one of the rear doors. It wont get destroyed up there.
“People think I’m rich, I have a lot of debt.” 100% can relate, we all take loans mixed with down payments mixed with interest rates to have things. If we were rich we could buy it cash, if we were poor we cant afford payments…
Yeah, and it feels like 100%. The smart thing to do is to save money and pay cash for everything but it’s a more complicated conversation when you’re buying things that you hope will make you money.
Your reasoning is very sound... I think you'll be more than happy with your decision. Of course my opinion and $4 will get you a cup of coffee... so... Another bonus savings - you have fewer tags to renew every year lol. Looking forward to seeing the new trailer in action!
Without any experience on this, would it be practical to attach a rope, or strap to the center of the trailer cargo cover? Then you could pull from the rear of the trailer.
First thing id do is get rid of that ball hitch and get a pintle. My buddy had his dump trailer pop off the ball and go through his tailgate when he was loading a skidsteer in back. I have pintles on all my trailers..never a problem. Just a thought.
It’s because the capacity of the tire is at least half the capacity of the axle. But I’m with you. They should come with at least 14 ply tires or higher, depending if the axle is 7k or more.
Looking to buy a similar trailer, mostly for hauling fill dirt and rocks. Have been told that these kind of trailers are good for firewood and such but not able to lift the deck with a full load of dirt, is that right?
Most of them have 14,000 pound capacity including their own weight. That means the axles can support you put in 10,000 pounds of material in the bed The dump can lift that 10,000 pounds. However, if you use a really dense material like wet dirt, you could easily fit twice that much weight into the bed and it won’t lift it. so basically just don’t overload it. You can’t pull that much down the highway anyway. Here’s how I solve that problem: th-cam.com/video/fuUeut6ybk8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=1NVzDcHAnQxNOt3o
Sounds like you made a good choice for yourself Brock. Something I seen on a different channel was a solar powered trickle charger for a dump trailer, sounded like it was pretty beneficial to the overall life of the battery as well. Should be some videos on it out there and surely they wouldn't be too expensive. Love the content! -Eric
@@RockhillfarmYT I put a solar charger on my dump. It keeps the battery charged up so I can run back to back runs, about 1.5 hour cycle type between dumps.
Hey man, I’m kinda going through the same dilemma. I recently purchased a 2,300lb piece of equipment for demo purposes. I thought I’d be able to haul it and debris to and from jobs but I just can’t get the weight to sit right. (I was loading debris as far forward as possible then parking my machine on the back, as to unload the machine before I dump) it was just to much, made the trailer wobble quite a bit. No idea what to do other than run 2 trucks 😬
Contrary to what many people believe, a bumper pull trailer is more maneuverable going up and down curved driveways then a gooseneck because it has less off tracking. The only thing a gooseneck has over a bumper pull when turning is that you can jackknife 90 degrees
Congrats Brock! Agree with all of your logic. Same reasons I ended on my 7x14 a couple months ago. Word of advise, and you might have figured this out by now, but it doesn’t take much material to see how much of a difference it makes when the dump pivot point is that much farther behind the axles. In mine, when I’m getting 2/3 of the way dumped and the material passes beyond the axles vertically, the tongue lifts hard. With mine it’s right at the point where I’d not want to do it without jacks. I wonder if the extra foot or so (half of 2 feet) would make that worse on yours. Curious to see what you think after dumping 7 or 8k pounds of gravel or more.
Hey there, fun review... you have a good voice for reviews ; ). I have some feedback that might help you or someone, but regardless what i say, be sure- i don't think you will regret this unit anytime soon. 😉 First thing, if you're in the South, u'd be better w/gravity down because it saves battery. The only real help for gravity down is up north in the cold when the oil is thick and coming down could take forever. Another con to yours is if the battery dies while you've got it up in the air.. no bueno. Those hitch scales are convenient. But don't think they are telling you how much weight you have in the bed, way too variable upon how it's loaded.... Last thing; looks like no sockets in the back for rear stabilizers. I got my dump trailer just to move my mini ex- for me that's a deal breaker (and Most dump trailers don't come with them, which afaic is some kind of scam to get you to buy a separate machine mover. That's a hefty trailer behind a single wheel pickup... i would be extra cautious with how you load it (even w/the hitch scale). Hopefully you don't think i'm knocking your unit, totally not.. you seem like someone open for words that can (ultimately) help. Be well~
Thanks for the feedback. Agree that You can not draw an exact weight of the contents of your trailer from that gauge but you can check it on a regular basis and use it as a reference for when you are full. Particularly if you don’t know what your material weighs per scoop it’s helpful. Obviously that is dependent on the fact that you are loading the weight properly. I’m trying to decide if I want to add the built-in jackstands or just put something like jackstands under the back of the trailer. One reason I hesitate on the built-in jackstands is if it squats very much they can get stuck in the down position Probably that is less of a problem on a dump trailer that may not squat the rear as bad but I definitely had that problem on another equipment trailer where I couldn’t get the jacks out without pulling forward or unloading the trailer It is a single axle truck but it’s also a 2022 model with The air suspension. It handles 14 K pretty well Thanks for watching
@@RockhillfarmYT , Happy to help, where possible... You might want to think about the physics of using rear stabilzers... using them correctly they will not get stuck with weight on them (on any trailer). The reason that the hitch scale isn't a good indicator of load weight is that the axles are a fulcrum, which means you can be Adding or Removing tongue weight with only a few inches difference, front-to-back loading. I have a pintle hitch, otherwise yes i would use one, just to know. If you want, there is a phone app that correctly determines a bunch of parameters like gross weight, hitch weight etc, just by punching in your info, calibrating it, and driving and applying the brakes. Fairly amazing and i believe it works well, thou they have been making revissions. A search should bring it up. I >myself< am not a big fan of towning a heavy trailer with a single wheel truck. Load range E tires are in two different load capacityes and trucks nearly always have the softer kind so the ride is tolerable. That, combined with there being only one wheel for the weight means they Could be overloaded or run hot. Wouldnt be a big deal, but that is the single most important spots Not to have a blowout... Steering gets immediately thrown off, ...your Rear wheels are the Front wheels of the dump trailer, if you think about it. Not saying not to do it, obviously... but i think it misleads others into thinking what a safely towed heavy trailer looks like. Just trying to give info that expalins some of the physics... Trucks w/trailers arent minvans: the gov't can't make a safety net for any schmo who doesn't want to think, and CDL requirements don't begin until heavier weights. For we who want to fly below the radar, the burdeon is on us to Think about what we are doing on shared roads ; ) peace~g-luck -
From my understanding another issue with power up/down is if the battery is low when you power down it can cause the hydraulic tank to overflow making a big mess inside the storage box
@@RockhillfarmYT I'm shopping for on now and that's my plan. I also want telescopic hoist. Besides all the normal benefits that have been talked about it saves about 1000 lbs. Now you can get that extra scoop back in there
@@RockhillfarmYT Doesn’t look like I’ll find what I want for that same reason but I’ll find something that works. Hopefully I’ll come across a good deal somewhere
I watched your video where you explain in detail how much your Dodge would haul but I don’t remember the number. I really feel like that truck should haul 25,000 pounds but it seems like it was closer to 16 or 17. It’s hard to believe that truck cost about as much as your skid steer….
I honestly should have got a tradesman. The price tag on the truck is overkill Tow rating on the truck is 20k but I’m at my payload rating with a 14k trailer. The way companies handle Payload rating doesn’t make any sense though
In my opinion dump trailers really should be ran with 14ply tires load range g…..load range e is undersized for your total load I believe they are rated at around 1500 lb per tire however a 14ply range g would get you approximately 4000 lbs per tire
Yeah, I would love to have a dump truck in a mini excavator and hire a second person and really be in business. Right now I need to prove that I can really make money with the equipment I have
You cannot measure the load weight by how much you have on the hitch....load heavy at the rear will give you a false reading at the hitch....nice trailer though
If you know how much the load weighs you can determine if it is centered If you know the load is centered you can estimatehow much it weighs You need to know one variable or the other and It is not exact but a good reference point
@@RockhillfarmYT how most likely you need a DOT #. Depending upon weight, and out of state usage. I know I have one. I do lawn care. Don't want to see you get in trouble.
I wouldn't have anything less than a "G" rated tire on a trailer that size. Too many blowouts in my experience. ESPECIALLY with an expensive 10k lb track loader inside.
@@RockhillfarmYT very important when constantly loading tires to their limit, to maintain tire pressures. Low pressure will generate heat, as will heavy loads.
This video is 2 1/2 years old, so I don’t remember anything about it. I can say that you have a volume switch on your phone, tablet, or TV. You can easily turn the volume down, but if the recording level isn’t high enough there’s nothing you can do about it.
For 15% off of your Weigh Safe order use code: rockhill
www.weigh-safe.com/
Lots to consider, but you covered the main points at a slow enough speed that I could follow along. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
Tough decision bumper or gooseneck, they both got pros and cons, either way trailers are always a must in any man's tool arsenal.
Nice trailer.When you talk about hauling multiple loads of material back and forth on a job with your truck and trailer you really got my attention.I always keep a tri-axle driver in my back pocket.I find that when pricing flat rates,it's not worth it on a bigger job to waist time running around with a smaller rig to get material.I found it's better to call in the bigger jobs to a dump truck while staying on site and working it in.It's also more cost competive on a flat bid against others.You can also mark up on material being delivered to account for the time you spend orchestrating the job.It could be the difference in getting the job vs. the competition who is more efficient.Just my experience.
I agree. Depending on location, if it is more than a couple of trips, it make sense to call a big truck
I have another video talking about that very thing:
What Owning a dump Trailer is REALLY Like- Watching this Before you Buy
th-cam.com/video/npsT3Gsls2A/w-d-xo.html
From what I've seen trailer manufacturers are putting the axles in the same place on gooseneck as bumper pulls. My dad had to move the front axle behind the back axle on his hay hauler to get it to pull right. Think goose necks are 2/1 weight distribution and bumper pulls are 5/1.
I think you made the right choice with a bumper pull. Like you said. They weigh less and you can still used the bed of your truck if needed. Very nice trailer.
Thanks
Thanks for sharing Brock. I had to buy a second truck recently when my truck blew a fuel pump and I can't get it in the shop for over a month to get fixed. Bought an old 00 7.3 Powerstroke for a backup truck.
Probably smart to have an older back up truck.
Thanks for watching
Really looking forward toward your upcoming video explaining the features of your new deck over trailer.
Me too
Thanks!
What we have encountered is that our bumper pull trailers get stolen more frequently than our gooseneck trailers. We have never had a gooseneck trailer taken, but have had several bumper pull trailers taken. So, gooseneck has become a leading option for us just to try to deter the thieves. Now if I could find a way to stop them from stealing the catalytic convertors. So far this year, over $20,000 in replacement cost for convertors.
That is crazy. So sad.
So are you guys operating an excavating business? Or hauling?
@@RockhillfarmYT Mechanical contractor. We do everything except iron work, which we sub out. We have had three trailers stolen from our electrical division, one from our laborers, and one from our industrial division. The most recent theft was five convertors and prior to that they stole a F150 from a jobsite. We have recovered all of them, yet the F150 was totaled when we got it back. We have been working with area police departments on effective methods to reduce the theft. The sad part, some of the solutions cost as much or more than just replacing the item. The simple solution we found with trailers, most vehicles/trucks aren't setup to tow gooseneck trailers, so that is a cost effective method for us to reduce that potential.
@@BradMyers That’s so frustrating to hear. As I build up equipment and trailers I’ve been expanding my parking area next to the house. I’m on a pretty steep slope so that’s not an easy thing. One thing I want to add soon is heavy gates. I’ve got woods around 3 sides, so a heavy gate would slow people down and make them work pretty hard to get a vehicle in/trailers out. It’s a shame you have to work so hard to keep people from helping themselves these days.
@@jeremyj612 In our three many properties we have added over 20 cameras. Now we get to watch the thieves steal everything from multiple angles. :)
We are in the process of adding cameras that are monitored by our alarm company that will notify police if they see someone on our property. Last month, we fixed two fences where they had cut through. We have another fence that we have given up fixing, they just stop along the highway, get dropped off, run up to the fence, cut right through, and into the property they go. Yet, with us and surrounding businesses adding monitored cameras, we are hoping to catch a few of them and bring this to the end. So far in three years, we have only caught four different individuals.
Sad part is that if these people would go to the local union hall, they are all looking to higher people because their benches are clear.
A customer had replaced chain link with steel plate. No more break ins.
I went bumper pull on all my trailers for the same reason. I can run them behind anything rated for the load.
Thanks for the video. You mentioned angle iron but you have an I beam frame. I like the weight rated hitch, never saw one of these. Thanks of the info.
Yeah, I definitely misspoke in that
Weigh Safe makes a great product
I have the 16 foot ultimate dump by bwise i have had it 4 years now I love it.
Thanks for sharing
Good info…10k is 10% of 5k. Love it haha
As I heard you need to update in 14 ply tires.
I upgraded the tires this week
So honest and insightful. Thank you man
Thank you
0:53: ⚙️ Brock discusses the features of his new 16-foot dump trailer and explains his decision to trade in his old one, emphasizing the importance of the three-way door.
5:01: 🚚 Review of features of a new dump trailer, including tarp cover, side steps, and stake pockets.
9:16: 🚚 Evaluation of weigh safe hitch and tire suitability for hauling trailers, with a discount offer included.
13:36: 🚚 Consider the appropriate dump trailer size based on the type of material being hauled and towing capacity. Smaller trailers may suffice for dense materials like rocks, while larger trailers are necessary for loose materials or heavy equipment.
17:51: 🚜 Struggling with trailer options and equipment needs, selling old trailers for debt relief.
Recapped using Tammy AI
She is a beaut Brock. And made in Texas, you know it's going to be good!
Right
Thanks for watching
With 14klb on the axles a bumper pull is the right choice. I got a gooseneck dump as my dually truck can tow 24klb that way. Trailer weighs 6klb so available payload is nine tons. I also got a 16ft box with ramps so equipment will fit and I have a deckover flatbed, also a 24klb gooseneck, so we seem to aim the same direction.
I borrow a light mower trailer from a friend. People don't borrow goosenecks.)
Great information and I've now subscribed to your channel! I agree with the bumper pull for the weight savings to haul more material. What I disagree with is pulling 9700 lbs. with a half-ton. I've always owned 3/4-1 tons and am a firm believer in having it and not needing it vs. the opposite. I recently owned my first half-ton pick-up and though it had a 9400# towing capacity, I didn't trust the handling characteristics when pulling 7500#. the pulling power isn't the issue, it's the brakes, suspension and transmission. If I were to have to make an evasive maneuver for whatever reason, I believe the trailer with payload has control. I have returned to a 3/4 ton and when pulling the identical set-up, I feel more in control of the load. This is my opinion and own experience, not saying the half-ton can't do it in a pinch on a short distance, it's a safety thing!
Yeah, my half ton truck was brand-new and it had upgraded towing package and the air ride suspension so that a 12,000 pound tow rating.
I did not feel comfortable with that though and I now have a three-quarter ton.
GM Sir….. I went with the Lamar16 foot GN….. I did a similar review on my channel. Just purchased a Ram 2500 to pull it. I added a step on the right side as well.
Good analysis on GN vs bumper pull.
Thanks for sharing. I’ll check out your channel
Awesome! Never seen the gauge before.
Works great and doesn’t cost that much more than other premium drop hitches
For 15% off of your Weigh Safe order use code: rockhill
www.weigh-safe.com/
Nice trailer and great review! I recently purchased a similar 16’ dump trailer and impressed so far. Enjoy!
Thanks for watching
Badass trailer brother. Glad I found this channel. I only have gooseneck for work and I feel like they're better all around. But each person has there own opinion. Shit if it works it works lol
On the subject of bomper pull vs gooseneck: You can pull a bumper pull with a van, a SUV and a tractor. There are rigs you hook to the 3-pt which makes it possible to pull a gooseneck with your tractor, but it's an extra accessory you have to buy.
Hey Brock, good video.. I went through the same thought process as you, and I haul a compact tractor and a mini skidsteer. I moved from a bumper pull 14' 14k, to a bumper pull 16ft, 18k trailer. Both of my trailer are scissor lift. My personal thoughts are...
I sould have bought a telescoping lift.. I didnt initially because my bigger tractor had to put the bucket over the front to fit.. but i sold that machine. The telescoping hoist pretty much eliminates any worry of not being able to dump.
Heavily loaded, I wish i purchased a goose.. the tongue weight can add up fast hauling logs, and tree chips..when hauling dirt, its easy to balance the weight over the trailer axles, as it will max out on weight long before cube. Hauling concrete tear outs, it can get tongue heavy. The trade off of a bumper pull being more available to pull with other vehicles, is prob a wash with being able to haul more per load with a goose. A side note, your empty trailer may transfer 10% to your truck, but loaded can be a way different story.
As far as your tires, IMO 10 ply load range E are the bare minimum. For your rim size I would go to 14 ply when you change tires. I went with 16ply on 17.5s, but im running 8k axles.
Last, I bought a Diamond C, and while its prob much more expensive than most, I chose it because the deck height is one of the lowest ive seen.. 21 inches i think. That matters to me for both equipment loading, and loading over the side with the mini skid or subcompact machine. My old dump trailer had a 28" deck height, and it was steep to load equipment..
I dont know much about the East Texas brand trailer either, but I hope it works well for you. I would maybe see if the dealer can do something about those stake pockets though.. they dont seem useable the way they are. Cheers
Thank you for that. Lot of good information
The one comment about the 10% trailer weight on the tongue when it is loaded, I have actually done a full video just measuring that and with my previous dump trailer I got between 10 and 11% on the tongue at all times.
That was with me making sure that the weight was properly centered.
I’m going out right now to see how it works out hauling my skid loader in the new dump trailer and I’m interested to see if I’m still getting the 10%.
May have to try it forward and backward to get my weight in the right place. Normally I would just eyeball that to where it looks centered but now I will try to move the skid steer back-and-forth until I get that 10 to 12% number
From that point on I will know where I want to Park it
Weigh Safe Trailer Hitch Test - Check Your Tongue Weight In Seconds
th-cam.com/video/fuUeut6ybk8/w-d-xo.html
My Texas pride Trailers all came with 14ply tires with 8 thousand pound axels 14'gooseneck with telescopic joist is that to go much better lifting capabilities. Congratulations on your new trailer.
Thanks
Awesome video Brock! Keep up the good work.
Congrats on 17k subscribers
Thanks
I have a ETT gooseneck lowboy that has those same ramps and I bent my ramps a little loading my Kubota 75-2 skid steer. I ended up welding 1/2" by 2" flat bar down the sides inside the 3" channel and I did cut off those little ears that hook on to the trailer and welded on heavy angle iron because the ears put a lot of weight in a little area on the trailer and I was having issues with it bending the lip on the back of the trailer. So keep an eye on them.
Thanks for the feedback
Listening to you Brock, I think you made a better argument to have gotten the gooseneck lol. The ability to be used on “somebody else’s truck” being one of them, in my opinion(can I borrow….). Looks like a well built trailer though, sure it will serve you well👍
Sounds right
Thanks for watching
Good vid and explanation. I am in the market and will begin looking this week. Good info to help me with the questions I need to ask.
At 7:27, isnt that 8" i beam?
A couple things, for me as a private individual not using it for work, that might affect my be decision would be that I WANT a gooseneck because of the fact not everyone can pull it. When i bought my flatbed trailer I bought a gooseneck just for that reason. I'm not super concerned about weight of the neck or extra length of a bigger box, being that I normally tow with an F450, but have an F250 and an International 8100 for backup if something happens to it. I would much rather have the bigger box for equipment room and balancing the load than worrying about the extra weight.
How do you like the scissor lifting over other?
Fasten a small d ring to the center of the tarp bar, when your going to load dirt/sand/rock clip a rope to the ring and you can tull the tarp out from the center.also, instead of mounting your plate down low, weld 2 studs to the panel of one of the rear doors. It wont get destroyed up there.
How's the paint holding up on the trailer? I'm looking at an east texas trailer but iv seen some paint issues with this brand.
Is a gooseneck trailer good with a single rear wheel truck?
Has a lot of the same features and designs that my Lamar dump has on it. Looks like a good trailer.
Thanks
Nice Trailer, Filler up..😁😁
Exactly.
“People think I’m rich, I have a lot of debt.”
100% can relate, we all take loans mixed with down payments mixed with interest rates to have things.
If we were rich we could buy it cash, if we were poor we cant afford payments…
Yeah, and it feels like 100%. The smart thing to do is to save money and pay cash for everything but it’s a more complicated conversation when you’re buying things that you hope will make you money.
@@RockhillfarmYT Yeah the risk is the reward, we literally pay to play.
Tell me how those doors to cover the ram are holding up ? I'm in my second dump traile in 7 years and that shit always gets rotted..
Your reasoning is very sound... I think you'll be more than happy with your decision. Of course my opinion and $4 will get you a cup of coffee... so...
Another bonus savings - you have fewer tags to renew every year lol. Looking forward to seeing the new trailer in action!
Thanks
What size truck are you using to pull?
What’s your identifying as angle iron is actually an I-beam piece of steel not angle iron
Without any experience on this, would it be practical to attach a rope, or strap to the center of the trailer cargo cover? Then you could pull from the rear of the trailer.
Good suggestion
Might work
It does work that is how PJTrailer builds theirs.
Thanks for sharing
First thing id do is get rid of that ball hitch and get a pintle. My buddy had his dump trailer pop off the ball and go through his tailgate when he was loading a skidsteer in back. I have pintles on all my trailers..never a problem. Just a thought.
That probably wouldn’t have happened if he had rear jacks.
Got to get one.
Handy as a pocket on a shirt
A weight distribution hitch would help alot
Why the heck would they put a 10 ply tire on a dump trailer. All 16ft trailers I’ve seen have 16 ply tires.
It’s because the capacity of the tire is at least half the capacity of the axle. But I’m with you. They should come with at least 14 ply tires or higher, depending if the axle is 7k or more.
Good video!
Looking to buy a similar trailer, mostly for hauling fill dirt and rocks. Have been told that these kind of trailers are good for firewood and such but not able to lift the deck with a full load of dirt, is that right?
Most of them have 14,000 pound capacity including their own weight. That means the axles can support you put in 10,000 pounds of material in the bed
The dump can lift that 10,000 pounds. However, if you use a really dense material like wet dirt, you could easily fit twice that much weight into the bed and it won’t lift it. so basically just don’t overload it. You can’t pull that much down the highway anyway.
Here’s how I solve that problem: th-cam.com/video/fuUeut6ybk8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=1NVzDcHAnQxNOt3o
Thanks Brook, PS I have a 19 acre ranch in east Texas also. @@RockhillfarmYT
Sounds like you made a good choice for yourself Brock. Something I seen on a different channel was a solar powered trickle charger for a dump trailer, sounded like it was pretty beneficial to the overall life of the battery as well. Should be some videos on it out there and surely they wouldn't be too expensive. Love the content! -Eric
Thanks
@@RockhillfarmYT I put a solar charger on my dump. It keeps the battery charged up so I can run back to back runs, about 1.5 hour cycle type between dumps.
Thanks for sharing
Hey man, I’m kinda going through the same dilemma. I recently purchased a 2,300lb piece of equipment for demo purposes. I thought I’d be able to haul it and debris to and from jobs but I just can’t get the weight to sit right. (I was loading debris as far forward as possible then parking my machine on the back, as to unload the machine before I dump) it was just to much, made the trailer wobble quite a bit. No idea what to do other than run 2 trucks 😬
Contrary to what many people believe, a bumper pull trailer is more maneuverable going up and down curved driveways then a gooseneck because it has less off tracking. The only thing a gooseneck has over a bumper pull when turning is that you can jackknife 90 degrees
That is the only thing it has going for it. It is also a complete and total GameChanger in a tight spot.
Congrats Brock! Agree with all of your logic. Same reasons I ended on my 7x14 a couple months ago. Word of advise, and you might have figured this out by now, but it doesn’t take much material to see how much of a difference it makes when the dump pivot point is that much farther behind the axles. In mine, when I’m getting 2/3 of the way dumped and the material passes beyond the axles vertically, the tongue lifts hard. With mine it’s right at the point where I’d not want to do it without jacks. I wonder if the extra foot or so (half of 2 feet) would make that worse on yours. Curious to see what you think after dumping 7 or 8k pounds of gravel or more.
Thanks for the heads up. I will be hauling rock with it tomorrow
Hey there, fun review... you have a good voice for reviews ; ). I have some feedback that might help you or someone, but regardless what i say, be sure- i don't think you will regret this unit anytime soon. 😉 First thing, if you're in the South, u'd be better w/gravity down because it saves battery. The only real help for gravity down is up north in the cold when the oil is thick and coming down could take forever. Another con to yours is if the battery dies while you've got it up in the air.. no bueno. Those hitch scales are convenient. But don't think they are telling you how much weight you have in the bed, way too variable upon how it's loaded.... Last thing; looks like no sockets in the back for rear stabilizers. I got my dump trailer just to move my mini ex- for me that's a deal breaker (and Most dump trailers don't come with them, which afaic is some kind of scam to get you to buy a separate machine mover. That's a hefty trailer behind a single wheel pickup... i would be extra cautious with how you load it (even w/the hitch scale). Hopefully you don't think i'm knocking your unit, totally not.. you seem like someone open for words that can (ultimately) help. Be well~
Thanks for the feedback.
Agree that You can not draw an exact weight of the contents of your trailer from that gauge but you can check it on a regular basis and use it as a reference for when you are full. Particularly if you don’t know what your material weighs per scoop it’s helpful.
Obviously that is dependent on the fact that you are loading the weight properly.
I’m trying to decide if I want to add the built-in jackstands or just put something like jackstands under the back of the trailer.
One reason I hesitate on the built-in jackstands is if it squats very much they can get stuck in the down position
Probably that is less of a problem on a dump trailer that may not squat the rear as bad but I definitely had that problem on another equipment trailer where I couldn’t get the jacks out without pulling forward or unloading the trailer
It is a single axle truck but it’s also a 2022 model with The air suspension. It handles 14 K pretty well
Thanks for watching
@@RockhillfarmYT , Happy to help, where possible... You might want to think about the physics of using rear stabilzers... using them correctly they will not get stuck with weight on them (on any trailer). The reason that the hitch scale isn't a good indicator of load weight is that the axles are a fulcrum, which means you can be Adding or Removing tongue weight with only a few inches difference, front-to-back loading. I have a pintle hitch, otherwise yes i would use one, just to know. If you want, there is a phone app that correctly determines a bunch of parameters like gross weight, hitch weight etc, just by punching in your info, calibrating it, and driving and applying the brakes. Fairly amazing and i believe it works well, thou they have been making revissions. A search should bring it up. I >myself< am not a big fan of towning a heavy trailer with a single wheel truck. Load range E tires are in two different load capacityes and trucks nearly always have the softer kind so the ride is tolerable. That, combined with there being only one wheel for the weight means they Could be overloaded or run hot. Wouldnt be a big deal, but that is the single most important spots Not to have a blowout... Steering gets immediately thrown off, ...your Rear wheels are the Front wheels of the dump trailer, if you think about it. Not saying not to do it, obviously... but i think it misleads others into thinking what a safely towed heavy trailer looks like. Just trying to give info that expalins some of the physics... Trucks w/trailers arent minvans: the gov't can't make a safety net for any schmo who doesn't want to think, and CDL requirements don't begin until heavier weights. For we who want to fly below the radar, the burdeon is on us to Think about what we are doing on shared roads ; ) peace~g-luck -
Great info
🙏❤️ Love Scotland ❤️🙏
From my understanding another issue with power up/down is if the battery is low when you power down it can cause the hydraulic tank to overflow making a big mess inside the storage box
I’ve had one of each and I would prefer to have gravity down
@@RockhillfarmYT I'm shopping for on now and that's my plan. I also want telescopic hoist. Besides all the normal benefits that have been talked about it saves about 1000 lbs. Now you can get that extra scoop back in there
Yeah, nobody around me sells those unless you want a special order and wait. I hope you find what you’re looking for
If you only have a gravity down hydraulic system what keeps the bed from popping up when you load the trailer?
@@RockhillfarmYT Doesn’t look like I’ll find what I want for that same reason but I’ll find something that works. Hopefully I’ll come across a good deal somewhere
I watched your video where you explain in detail how much your Dodge would haul but I don’t remember the number. I really feel like that truck should haul 25,000 pounds but it seems like it was closer to 16 or 17. It’s hard to believe that truck cost about as much as your skid steer….
I honestly should have got a tradesman. The price tag on the truck is overkill
Tow rating on the truck is 20k but I’m at my payload rating with a 14k trailer. The way companies handle Payload rating doesn’t make any sense though
Nice job god bless
You might need a CDL with everything you mentioned that you want to haul. It's best to look into your your state laws and find out the weight limits.
Awesomeness
Thanks
In my opinion dump trailers really should be ran with 14ply tires load range g…..load range e is undersized for your total load I believe they are rated at around 1500 lb per tire however a 14ply range g would get you approximately 4000 lbs per tire
Agreed. I upgraded mine
Load Range E tires are usually in the 2700-3200 lb capacity range. It depends on the tire size and brand.
Bummer, I would like to have bought the old dump trailer. Even having to drive from Missouri to your place to pick it up.
I should have announced in a video that I was selling it to see who was interested
@@RockhillfarmYTHey you did what you needed to at the time. Saved me some money!
Consider your insurance requirements if you have someone else haul your truck/tractor for your business. Are you insured for that, or are they?
Good Point
Tires made in USA ?
I don’t know
Good luck trying to find usa made tires, your lucky to get tires period in this mess of a world !
How big is that one
I-beam
Good info...sounds like someone needs a dump truck in the equipment arsenal!! Hurry up and get rich so we can see you get one! :P
Yeah, I would love to have a dump truck in a mini excavator and hire a second person and really be in business.
Right now I need to prove that I can really make money with the equipment I have
Yup. I love my 16' gooseneck dumper, but I'm the only one I know with a truck that can pull it. That's the only downside for me.
You could make a case for that being a downside or an upside….
Thanks for watching
Upside no one can borrow it
You cannot measure the load weight by how much you have on the hitch....load heavy at the rear will give you a false reading at the hitch....nice trailer though
If you know how much the load weighs you can determine if it is centered
If you know the load is centered you can estimatehow much it weighs
You need to know one variable or the other and It is not exact but a good reference point
Angle iron. Maybe I beam
That frame is I beam
However a gooseneck will add 25% hauling weight so your comment about gooseneck vs bumper pull is inaccurate
No back legs for loading equipment, bad choice. That frame is I beam not angle
I gossesneck and a lift in front
Sounds like a nice set up
Thanks for watching
Me thought great was idea week last taco before Tuesday dinner table the?
Might want to get a larger truck, or lose some weight
Sorry too back the news but ,,, when are you going to make a video about DOT. BECAUSE I know you have business liability insurance 🙄
Yes, I have business liability insurance. What would you like me to say about DOT
@@RockhillfarmYT how most likely you need a DOT #. Depending upon weight, and out of state usage. I know I have one. I do lawn care. Don't want to see you get in trouble.
Thanks for the feedback.
Not sure what state you’re in , moves up bigger, want you need CDL license.
I wouldn't have anything less than a "G" rated tire on a trailer that size. Too many blowouts in my experience. ESPECIALLY with an expensive 10k lb track loader inside.
Thanks for the info
@@RockhillfarmYT very important when constantly loading tires to their limit, to maintain tire pressures. Low pressure will generate heat, as will heavy loads.
I tried to haul 3.5 tons in my 7x14 Iron Bill with my F150 and it wouldn’t even lift the trailer off the ground
26000 = A
16 ply are much stronger
Why do you always yell in your videos?
This video is 2 1/2 years old, so I don’t remember anything about it. I can say that you have a volume switch on your phone, tablet, or TV.
You can easily turn the volume down, but if the recording level isn’t high enough there’s nothing you can do about it.
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Annual household income, vs Total debt ???
What is your question
That is the question.......
Vs total debt in equipment / toys......
So honest and insightful. Thank you man