Hauling a tractor in a dump trailer - Important Tips You Need to Know
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 มิ.ย. 2022
- Hauling a tractor in a dump trailer - Important Safety Tips You Need to Know
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I learned years ago as a transporter, that in order to have safer shallower incline, it requires a longer incline in the form of longer ramps. The best way to do that when you have such short ramps is to use cribbing, such as a long 2×6 or even 4×6(could be staggered doubled up 2×6's) with the end of your steel ramp resting on top of the them. This will lessen the steep angle, as well as get the back tires up higher off of the ground to prevent dragging. This is MUCH safer than tilting your bed, which can lead to sliding off to side and dropping off of the ramps.
Good thought provoking video though, with good points about propper weight ratios to be able to control load properly...to avoid dangerous steering and sway issues. I've seen too many bad consequences over the years for those who just "sent it."😊
Thanks for sharing your thoughts on it
You can also put a 4 foot length of 2x12 on top of the loading ramps down at the Ground end to add an additional amount of length which will help as well !
I had a similar issue with my backhoe dragging while loading. Solution was simple - get front wheels about half way up the ramps then place a couple short pieces of 2x8 - on the ground at the end of the ramps. I use a 24" piece with an 18" piece centered and screwed to the top. This lifted my rear wheels enough (three inches of course but you could easily add one more board) for the backhoe to not drag. I have integrated rear jacks on my trailer - but I leave enough slack for normal suspension squat so they aren't compressed against the ground once loaded - making it impossible to pull the pins to stow (or to remove the jacks). This works for ANY trailer - not just a dump trailer. Hope this helps. Stay safe out there.
Thanks for watching
Good morning! I’ve been dealing with trailers and hauling equipment and wrecker/towing for the last 43 years and the only knowledge I can possibly share that I’ve learned over all my trials is……. Dump trailers are designed for dumping. And equipment trailers are designed for hauling equipment. I would NEVER haul any equipment in a dump trailer period not the correct use. Mixing and matching uses is never the answer. I’m too old to drive around worried about my loaded trailer behind me at 65 mph. Be careful brother!! I really enjoy your content and channel.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts on it
Definitely won’t be my primary way to Haul
If it is not designed for it then why is there tie downs and ramps? Just because it is not the perfect solution does not mean it is not designed for it.
Lol. If it fits and your tied down with proper distribution, it's no problem. Send it
So now a day they do make dump trailers for hauling equipment
Sometimes that's all you got. It's good to know how it should be done to do it as safe as possible. So go shove it ya rich boomer
Your indepth trailering videos will surely save a lot of folks some time and grief.
I was hoping these will benefit people down the road. I did a bunch of searches looking for this type of video and there’s not much out there
Thanks for watching
I wish I had seen this before I traded my 16’ car hauler for a 12’ dump 2 weeks ago. Good information. Will be ordering one of the weigh safe hitches.
Thanks for watching
This is great stuff Brock. Almost all of my trailer experience is with RVs and GN horse trailers... you can't really change the weight distribution on those type trailers. I have been thinking about getting a flatbed trailer and this is some valuable information. It is not only good for learning about how to center your load, but also helps me decide what size trailer to get. Thank you sir!
Thanks for watching
Get a flat bed and put on your truck and you can carry any extra attachments you need and you can make a holder that goes under the trailer that the forks fit into , just my 3 cents lol 🤪
Good video and explanation. You definitely do trailering correctly! Lotta "just haul it" types on our roads....and I'm sure on yours too.
Yes sir. I at least try
Hi Brock you are one of my favorite youtube people I gain alot of knowledge from your videos I personaly own a 14 foot dump trailor and a 1025r john deer. I have a drive over 60 inch mowerdeck and while loading I get hung up on the ramps so I invested in a remote control for my trailer and put it on my keyring to the tractor and can adjust on the fly how much pitch I need to get loaded works perfect! They are very inexpensive and every one that has a dumptrailer should look into one ! Makes tailgating for gravel driveways so rewarding.
Thanks for the kind words and for the tip on the wireless controller. It’s been on my to do list since I bought the first dump trailer but I still haven’t made time for it.
Is the 1025r able to fit on the 14 ft trailer with both the bucket and backhoe attached?
It would help if you move the jack stands down a few hole so the springs will give some with the weight of the equipment This will help a great deal i never put my out riggers all the way to the ground it will solve most of the loading problem .
Good video! Answered several of the questions I had!
Good information Brock , Thank You ...this trailer " Balanced Load" info. has been an eye opener for a lot of us " Load it and go " guys !
I'm getting a Weigh Safe Hitch scale ordered soon !
pc
Thanks for watching
Hi mate great video just little tip drive trailer on blocks then pack block away
Like your style. No music and communicating practical and useful information.
Subscribed
Thanks
Other thing on the weigh-safe hitch, couldn't tell if you had stowed the ramps or not, but those steel ramps are not light and only half the weight of them are on the trailer when they are setup as "ramps". Just another thing to consider.
On the issue of loading angle, you might be able to just place two 2x12's that are say 2 ft long under the ends of your ramps, they would lower the angle slightly and get the rear wheels up off the ground before they reach the ramp, giving you more clearance for the backhoe and box blade, so you aren't scraping them as you are loading to leave your jobsite... You may have to play around with the length they stick out beyond the ramps so they get the machine up but don't get in the way of the rear attachment. This suggestion is meant to be used in conjunction with raising the bed of the dump trailer.
And if the bed of the trailer is wet, remember you only really need to have the bed raised while you get the machine onto or off of the ramps, once your rear wheels are half way up the ramp, you can lower the bed (or wait to raise the bed till you rear wheels are half way down the ramps during unloading). This is easier with a wireless remote, but your corded remote may be long enough to do this.
Anyways, good video, and I think your couple of videos on loading a dump trailer confirm that a power down setup is better, as it keeps the bed from moving as you load and unload.
Greg comment. Lot of good ideas in there
With all the space and equipment you have out there sir, you should build yourself a loading ramp. When ever I go to my tractor dealer, I just back up to his ramp made of railroad tie with dirt packed up against it and drive on/off. Of course, doesn't really help when out in the field, but at home it would help immensely. I got tired of dragging out my ramps, so building one here on my homestead.
I agree. I’ve been thinking about it all day and I have a plan for how I’m going to do it
Thanks for watching
Stumbled upon your channel and thought I would check it out. Good information on loading. I’ve seen guys haul skid-loaders in those dump trailers but unless there’s tie down points on the floor I can’t believe they’re very secure. I don’t think I would bother using that type of trailer for hauling equipment and stick with a low-boy trailer or something equivalent. (In my opinion)
Great video Brock. I just got a quote for a 14ft dump trailer to haul my 2038R from Texas Pride Trailers. I am definitely changing it to a 16ft trailer now. Thank you.
Probably a good idea.
From my experience with this model Tractor, I would simplify it as 12 foot is Tractor with no attachments. 14 foot let you have either a front attachment or a smaller rear attachment. 16 foot let you have both.
And there is the weight distribution aspect
It doesn’t seem like a huge price difference just getting the extra 2 feet on the trailer
Get the 16. I have the 14’ Texas Pride (great trailer ) that I haul my TYM T25 in with a backhoe. It fits but I have to hang both buckets over.
I also added ramp extensions so I could load it without dragging the backhoe.
Thanks for sharing
Good work! Very nice and informative video. Keep up the good work. 👍🏻
Nice job
Good info, thanks.
Thanks for watching
My 2 cents is make a loading ramp at your house sometime. You will like it cuz it will be easier and easier on your trailer hydro's . So you only have to do the raising of the trailer bed on work site. Just a thought. Great job! Todd
Thanks for the suggestion
@@RockhillfarmYT like this guy said it would be a lot easier to just drive on it . It doesn't have to fancy. A ramp made from some clay that is packed into a ramp.
Yeah, that seems like a good idea. I’m thinking about the best place to put it on the property but you’ll probably see it at some point
Great idea Sir
You could also try lowering your Jack stands and allowing the front of the trailer to come up an the rear of the truck to lift a little. We have to do that on are 1ton when we put the mini in the dump trailer so the blade won’t get stuck
Sounds right
Thanks for watching
Another good video Sir . . . I need to load my tractor in my dump trailer as well. I may need a backhoe instead of looking for an excavator..... on the fence about the weight-safe ball for my GN, but your discount puts it in my price range.
Thanks for watching
Just remember that if you detach your bucket to make more room, you have to secure the bucket also. What? You thought you'd get by without me finding something to comment on? Great video, Brock. Keep up the good work!
I doubt I ever make a video that covers every detail properly.
I appreciate the comments
If his front tires are pushing against it or can put some down pressure with the loader arms then he should be good.
@@Jtwizzle That may be good for you and me, but the DOT might consider that an unsecured load. And we all know what that means...
@@RockhillfarmYT Just so you know, that's just what they are. Comments, not criticisms. You produce one of my favorite channels! Keep up the good work!
All good. I try to consider every comment. Some of them teach me important things that I had not thought of. Some of them are how should I say… Less helpful
But usually even a criticism has a grain of truth in it and I don’t Ever recall you leaving a negative comment
Hi
I understand your loading situations.
One thing I did was having a flat bed truck so you can put an attachment also.
That was really handy.
Just a suggestion
That would be useful.
Most of the time I won’t be hauling my equipment in this trailer. Only when I’m also hauling material on the same job
Thanks for watching
Maybe you addressed this in another video but in this context I really want to know if a gooseneck would make a difference for ya? Would you be able to legally tie the bucket down to the neck and get a little more lenght out of a trailer that way?
Also, would the gooseneck structure give you a winch mounting spot to assist in loading? I know it wouldn't help the ramp angles w/ equipment dragging the ground but would make crawling up the slick bottom a bit safer.
The other thing you can do is leave your truck hooked up and jack the front of the trailer up. the truck will prevent the trailer from skying and the jack and coupler will have no problem lifting the truck. The combination of both the tilt deck and the jack might be a good way to flatten it out
Get a Diamond C dump. Low ramps. Everything fits
I like to use a handyman jack in place of a jack stand, it is more stable under the trailer then you would think, but you are not lifting the trailer so I stay stable
the only reason i wouldn't tilt the trailer to load a heavy thing such as a tractor is you could overload the tilt mechanism or the hydraulics. if your trailer hydraulics are overloaded they may hold the tractor up during loading, but once lowered it may not raise up again leaving you with a dangerous situation of how do you unload the tractor if the back end digs into the ground. also if it's in the partially tilted up position, you may end up overloading the hydraulics and now you're depending upon the safety relief valve to do it's job before say a hose breaks possibly leaving you half way loaded as the bed comes down suddenly. i would think it would be better to put some 4"x12" by 4' long wood blocks with a wedge cut at one end at the base of the loading ramps to both make the ramps less angled, and make them longer (allowing the rear tire to start up the blocks picking the back end of the tractor up off the ground).
How did you tie the tractor down? I’m in the market for a dump trailer to haul my CUT. I’ve seen D-rings welded to the floor of the dump bed, is this what you have? are they rated to secure a 2800# , wheeled load?
One more thing you might add to your preliminary loading checklist (set parking brake, chock wheels etc.)-that is to place your automatic transmission in neutral. With the brakes set and the wheels chocked there is going to be some front-to-rear movement of the truck/trailer combo when loading. Even a small rocking motion can ruin the parking pawl inside your transmission if it’s engaged.
Curious, is the truck equipped w/class 4 or 5 receiver frame?
Maybe drop the jack stands down a notch or 2 to let the trailer squat more. I ended up leaving them out and just letting it completely squat to get somethings off and on without super dragging. Just got to be a little more aware of where you're parking to keep the strain off the truck.
Sounds right
That was my first thought. Tractor weighs almost 4k less than the skid steer id just let it squat for that load.
Another 👍👍
Thanks Rodney
Was there any issues with the backhoe over the side? How far did it hang over? Can the backhoe be over the back gates instead?
one thing to think about, the r4 tires, most aggressive,
are taller.
Is it safe on the hydraulic cylinder to load it when it’s lifted like that?
Hi Brock! Great video as always. It looks like driveway jobs may be a good part of growing your business. Have you given any thoughts to adding culvert cleaning to your services? A stand alone Porta-mole type equipment or as an attachment for you tractor or skid loader might be a good investment. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the suggestion
Great video. I wonder if your stump grinder would fit? I find my bucket & stump grinder to be a common configuration with my dump trailer for jobs where I’m clearing and grading where people have had trees taken out and ground. Once you start clearing chips you always find roots and stump remnants that were missed. I only have a 1025r so I use a Baumalight 1P24 and that’s pretty short, but if I remember right yours is a lot longer from the rear of the tractor.
Yeah, it sticks out 6 foot so it probably wouldn’t work even with the bucket hanging over the front.
I bet yours would though
@@RockhillfarmYT Yeah mine fits in my 7x14, but I hang my bucket over the tailgate. I back on in that configuration because the grinder fits between the ramps as the tractor climbs to the ramp angle. Keeps me from having to dump it a little or do I anything with lumber to get it in. With a tape measure I can fit it without hanging the bucket over, but it’s so tight I don’t want the bucket banging or attachment banging into the tarp roll.
FYI I went to the Weigh Safe site and they are out of stock...they will notify me when stock is in...( I wonder if my Rockhill discount will still apply )
I'll find out !
Thanks again Brock
pc
It should still work
Send like everything is unavailable or long lead times right now
If I seen a couple pieces of even 2x4, I’d hear you out. But oh boy. Lol
What’s the size of the trailer you’re using and how do you secure that tractor inside the trailer?
I think you need to do the tongue weight again with the backhoe without the jack stands, there is no way a box blade is anywhere near as, or heavier than a backhoe. two 2x12 screwed together under each rear wheel should stop the scraping of the BH. I always thought JD said to back on the tractor in the manual so the hood won't fly off.
My box blade has suitcase weights on it, but the backhoe probably still weighs 500 pounds more than the box blade. With 10% of the weight going onto the tongue that means a 50 pound difference on my gauge if the tractor is in exactly the same place
They do tell you to back the tractor on but I’m much more concerned with proper weight distribution than I am the hood. It’s easy to put a strap over the hood if you are concerned about it
I have experienced an improperly balanced trailer. It’s no fun
What about securing the load ? Most states require any equipment to be chained or strapped down. Is there room to get in there and do that?
Yes. Shackles on the floor.
I sure hope there’s chains and binders securing the tractor as it goes down the road and its not just (gravity strapped) in the trailer.
Yeah, of course I secure my equipment
Thanks for watching
That's some much needed info and loading hints. I was disappointed to see that you were loading a 2038. My JD is 4044. Do you have any info about hauling a 3 or 4 series in a 14-16 foot dump ? In the meantime I'll head a mile up the road to my JD dealer with my measuring tape.
Weight is not going to be an issue. It’s just a matter of the length, and I don’t have any personal knowledge of that.
Not sure if our state or a universal law but the bucket of the backhoe needs to be rested on the deck and chained. The loader and tractor are the same way. All implements need secured even though attached to equipment.
Yeah but the trail was raised to load and then lowered which took it off the stands.
You have a bed of a truck still that and implement could sit in
weigh safe link doesn't work
What is the model name and brand of trailer is it?
I tilt my bed before loading and no problems...
Thanks for sharing, it definitely improves the geometry. I only wanted to do that if required.
Depending on how heavy the machine is, I think it’s better on your hydraulic cylinder to have the bed down and I saw a pretty scary video of a tractor sliding while trying to pull into an angled dump bed
Looks like your front tires need some air
Thanks for the tip
I better check it
Hey Rocky . (that’s just the name I call you). I have a question. Do you ever wished your dump trailer was telescopic?
How many hp is that tractor?
38
Is the backhoe attachment broken? I've seen many different ways to get it in there. Just by listening to you, your pretty new at trailers, equipment, and working for yourself. What in the heck triggered everyone with zero experience and good credit to decide they wanted machinery and equipment, Covid??
Brock, you do for an oil change/maintenance on tractor or skid steer? Do you normally film this? I think your viewers want to see this kind of thing
When I bought the machines I bought the service plan with them so the dealer has done most of my service to this point.
The service plan on the tractor has run out though so I’ll most likely will be doing my own service and recording it
@@RockhillfarmYT gotcha
How about securing that 5000 pound tractor to the trailer?
Yes, of course I do that every time, but I also have separate videos just about that topic and I don’t show it in every video where I Haul the machine
@@RockhillfarmYT lol. Quick response. I figured you did I just wanted to see how and where you anchor that thing. I currently have a flat 10k trailer and wanna get the dump bed setup like you have. I’ll check your other vids.
@@RobertGammie on my specific jump trailer, there are heavy shackles in the corners, and I use a chain and binder.
I think it’s pretty common nowadays to have those shackles.
Ball hitches are crap. Pintle is the only way to go. My buddy was loading a skid steer into his dump trailer..the trailer popped of the Ball and it was locked...but the 2 5/16 Ball was slightly worn. You don't see Ball hitches on heavy trailers or dump trucks.
Wierd. Seems like that when you consider ball hitches are being used in 99.9% of residential hauling, you'd hear more about trailers coming loose(not counting wrong size balls of course). But you dont..
Seems like you are the first person I've ever heard say they know someone who had an issue, which seems a pretty good track record for my 40 years of being around. And then in the end,you said it was a warn ball, which means they probably weren't using lubricant or maintaining their equipment.
Yes, there are better options out there for kore money, but to say all ball joints are crap is just plane silly. An incredibly rare issue due to lack of maintenance does not make for a bad product. Do you also not buy any products from Amazon if they don't have a perfect 5 star review because someone misused the product? Because then they would just be crap if they weren't perfect 100% of the time no matter what..
put smaller tires with same rating on trailer
Thanks for the suggestion but what is the advantage in that
Now dump it out.
Put your truck in Neutral , so you're , NOT , pushing against the parking Pawl and lock your parking brake !!!
That is what I do every time.
Shouldnt even try to do this. Its a dump trailer not an equipment trailer. There is a reason why an equipment trailer is set/build lower. Cutter corners usually leads to a safety issue. Or equipment malfunction.
It comes with ramps to haul a tractor/equipment.
Bring tractor to worksite. Load....dump....load...dump... At end of day, load tractor back up and leave for home.
I have a similar dump trailer, but with higher walls. And the ramps are incredibly heavy, over 100lbs+ each. They look exactly the same as his. They can support a tractor without issue and are made for it. So yes, misusing equipment is bad, but so is assuming when you don't know what you are talking about.
He says I like to use weight safe hitch when I don’t know the weight of what what I’m hauling , ( then you wouldn’t know what weight should be on hitch to use weight safe hitch ) . Don’t use you tube to educate. To many things wrong here
This seems like a troll comment, but just in case you actually don’t understand what I was saying:
The weigh safe is a great tool, whether or not you know the weight of what you are hauling. In fact, it is such a good idea, that the truck manufactures are now building it into the truck.
A new Ford truck will show you your tongue weight on the dash using a similar system.
If you’re hauling a tractor, and you know what it weighs, and the Gauge will show you how to center your weight. A tractor or a skid loader is a great example of this because you can know what it weighs but not exactly the center of gravity, depending on the attachments that are on it.
In this scenario, it’s a great way to tell where to place your tongue weight
Now if you are hauling loose material like rocks, the hitch has a lot of value also. in that scenario, since you can’t tell exactly how much the rocks weigh without going to scale, you attempt to center them on the trailer as well as possible.
By centering the rocks in the trailer and then checking your gauge it will tell you when you have a full load.
Since I have purchased rock at a Rock Yard many times and I know what my gauge reads with different weights, now if I’m hauling scrap, metal or wet dirt or anything else I can know what the contents of the trailer weigh.
This is important information because if you don’t know it, you can overloaded and have either an unsafe driving condition, or be unable to lift the dump trailer.
Bottom line about having a gauge built into the your receiver is that more information is better than less information. It’s not some miraculous thing. It’s a point of reference. Having it let you know more then if you don’t have it.
I would use the attachment to lift the rear tires and push the tractor inside the trailer...
Hell that's an easy one