Chem Dip is usually used for soaking carburetors, and there's some things about is. What you are showing here looks to be the "add to" can. It's for the 5gal Dip Bucket (w/parts basket). Reason I bring this up, is the 5gal bucket only has about 25% of the actual Chemical in it. The top part 75% of the bucket is oil that floats on top to keep it from evaporating. The "add-to" can that you have there is about 75% Chem & 25% (anti-evap) Oil. If you pour the stuff from the top of either of these, it won't do much (because it's just oil) you have to pull the stuff from the bottom to get the "good stuff". The "good stuff" hiding in the bottom of these, actually eats metals. Leave it in there long enough and it starts to eat away the aluminum turning it black. Also you have to Neutralize it when you pull it out of the "Dip" buy washing it all with HOT water, other wise it will etch itself into the aluminum. It's why our wash basin is near the Carburetor bench in the shop, so we can pull a carb out and immediately scrub it down with hot water. That all being said, be very careful with this stuff. Even with full PPE on, and thick rubber sleeved gloves, when I do a Carburetor I smell like carb cleaner for a couple days, and it turns your pee pink. It absorbs into anything made of Carbon, and we all are Carbon Based Lifeforms.
" Leave it in there long enough and it starts to eat away the aluminum turning it black". Yep, learned that the hard way back in 1980. Tough lesson for a 16 year old buying his own parts LOL.
Good to know on the safety side. I’m usually pretty brazen with the chemicals except for MEK, gas & methanol, turps…some things scare me enough to make sure I’m well protected. Gas is one most people don’t even bother with, but get enough of that shit soaking into your skin or breathing it in…not good. It’s probably less the fuel itself and more the additives, but regardless, I quit using it to clean shit a long time ago.
That was informational AND entertaining. Its amazing how many ppl make comments about things u said u would be addressing in a later video. I gave a thumbs up. Then i took my wife's phone and rewatched it with another 👍! You deserve more subs for the work u put in.
The best thing to clean carbon is dot 4 brake fluid. Leave it to soak for about 20 minutes and wipe it away with a cloth. Brings up piston crowns like new.
What would happen if you would put a Couple of ounces into the Gas Tank. Or is Marvel Oil Better to Clean the top Pistons without Disassembling the Engine.
Oh trust me this product does remove carbon ! Very toxic shit you do not want to leave on your skin or your skin will blister if left on too long I had that happen
That Berryman is very potent. I run the fuel injector gas treatment in my car. It had a tiny amount of liquid on the bottom of the can. I set the can on my trunk for less than a minute. Ate through the clear coat and paint.. Imagine how well it cleans the injectors.
Yeah, we were doing this back in the 70’s using the 25gal. Drums of chemical, we called it cold tanking or cold dip as opposed to the hot tank we used for steel and iron. So, it’s not really an experiment, it’s a well established practice.
Yeah see, back in the 70s there was all sorts of fun chemical stuff nobody really thought much about touching and inhaling that did a great job, but there’s this thing we have nowadays that everybody from that era seems to have, it’s called cancer...
I used to have a very precious man do all the valve jobs in my aluminum heads he would put the heads in a big tank of carburetor cleaner and they will come out like brand new the only man I trusted with doing valve jobs and all my aluminum stuff back in the day lot of Fiats with burnt exhaust valves actually made a special l Socket wrench just to torque the head bolts without taking a cam tower off
Had A 1970 Ford Maverick with an inline 6 cylinder engine and from the travel to work or home again (about five miles) it would "PING" like crazy. Finally pulled the head off and every piston had a layer of fuzzy black carbon. Had I had this stuff you showed I would of used it. Instead of working for a weekend to remove the carbon and reseat all the valves and other seals and gaskets and adjustments. Really cool man what that stuff does.
It *can* etch certain aluminum parts if left in too long as it says on the can; however I have left small carburetors in it for a week with no effect other than super clean.
Thank you, next time I have ot do this to a head I know what works best. I used carb cleaner in a spray can. I pokes a hole in the can and drained it out and poured it into the head area and let is soak over night. The next morning I used a tooth brush and clean it and like you had a clean head. Your method looks like it did a better job over all with less scrubbing.
It’s been awhile since I’ve used Berryman but i think it might say since 1928 on the can. Very aggressive stuff. It says don’t get it on your paint and I’ve learned the hard way to take great care as to not let this stuff get on your paint. Lol. Great video and nice project.
Someone else has discovered my magic in a can. I knew about this stuff nearly 15 yrs ago when the can it was delivered in was white at least for the Gunk version, which are probably the same chemical with a different label. I put oil/carbon baked internal engine parts in it and let them sit over night and couldn't believe the as new cast appearance they came out with. Advance auto is where I get mine and usually they have a 25% off coupon floating around somewhere to sweeten the deal, especially now given how the price has increased by about $10 to $28. I would advise sparing use because of how expensive it is. Apply a smaller amount to soften build up on large parts like cylinder heads and use a cheap secondary cleaner and high pressure water spray to finish the job. You don't want to end up paying the same price for cleaning at home that it would cost to just drop the parts off at a shop. A good high pressure washer might do a very effective job and eliminate the use of chemicals altogether for this job and any future for the cost of the machine and low cost for water as the cleaning solution. Another old time favorite for removing a lot of the crud is Easy Off oven cleaner, just be careful not to use it on aluminum with delicate surfaces (cylinder heads, alum blocks) that need microscopic smoothness.
there is a mild version of easy off i use.. but for the hard baked on stuff & on cast iron i use tergo industrial paint stripper... just not on ali gasket surfaces
Full strength Simple Green works for carbon removal. Over night soak and 90% of the baked on carbon wipes off with a rag. Stubborn carbon may need a second soaking to remove. Simple Green is cheap from Big Box Stores and is safe to use. I have used Simple Green on several engine heads and pistons with good results.
@@falsem1nd use Simple Green HD (the purple one) if you use it on aluminum. I just used it this weekend for my aluminum LS cylinder heads and I let it sit in there for six hours, took it out to brush them down, then rinse and repeat that step 4 or so times. A day later, they're almost like 90%+ clean.
its a good sign when the chemical doesn't drain out right away too, that is a nice engine to rebuild. I don't know a whole lot, but the fact those valves still seal tightly even carbon coated is a good thing. Honda power :-)
Next time you need to clean carbon, try dot 4 brake fluid. Put it on a cloth and start wiping. It immediately starts melting carbon. No soaking required
Chem-Dip has phosphoric acid in it... That's why the 4 hour limit on soaking aluminum parts. Unless you want to etch or destroy thin aluminum part sections. Always wash Chem-Dip off with water to dilute and remove it from the surface. It will continue to eat aluminum surfaces if just wiped off.
I looked up the Chem-dip MSDS - it contains no acids, phosphoric or otherwise. As expected, it is caustic (pH 10-11), which is why you can't leave it on aluminum too long.
@@idontwantachannel3091 Chem-Dip, Tyme, and Gunk have all changed their formulas over the last dozen years or so. Thank California's Proposition 65 for that. The old stuff worked much better....but wasn't up to California standards and the manufacturers would rather make just one product instead of two. If the current stuff only works part way, it's guaranteed you'll buy more of it to get the job done. Be it a base or an acid, it's rough on aluminum. I stand corrected.......
Yo guys, just use Easy Off oven cleaner. Carbon comes off with a wipe if you leave for 5 min. Don’t waste your money on this Chem-Dip stuff. Legit cheaper.
Some chemicals can cause "hydrogen embrittlement" in aluminum, this could be why the company does not want the product left on too long. We had problems in the Air Force with some chemical cleaner / degreasers that were not approved by the manufacturer used on our F-16's and had to have some skin removed and replaced.
Seriously Thank You for Your Service to our County its Super Appreciated!! Unfortunately in many cases UNDER APPRECIATED by the media! BUT THANK YOU!! Could you provide a bit more in the details? Nothing that would get you in trouble but im curious. Thanks Again! Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
Since the head is off, why not just disassemble it (remove valves) and clean it entirely? I think you'll find significant carbon under the valve heads and/or in the intake/exhaust ports, especially if that engine is is direct injected. With the head disassembled, you'll also have access to inspect for any valve, valve seat or valve guide wear, as well as the head sealing surface for flatness.
The carbon on the exhaust valve gets a lot hotter, and will turn to "glass", same thing that cause "splash fouling "of plugs when an engine is run at high speed after carbon build up. Probably need to chip it off.
You sir are a genius! Walnut blasting intake valves is ridiculous. There has to be a "solution" for this god awful procedure which my chevy dealers in town have no idea about but sell gdi cars. My cobalt ss turbo needs intake valve cleaning desperately. I am going to try this. THANK YOU! I will let you know how it works.
Aluminum and Brass can literally disolve in Acidic Solutions like this. That's why you have to keep it under 4 hrs. Our Machine shop does the same with Acid Bath, but Iron motor blocks can stay in a lot longer
There are 2 grades of Chem Dip. Standard and Professional. You know you have the good stuff if it makes your shop wreak forever, the other doesn't do much.
Lightning Cleaner is what I found unreal for removing baked on carbon the VW cylinder head in a water mixture (1:1)soaking for 8hrs then rinsed it off with tap water (no scrubbing) for a bright shiny finish.
Simple green... That's all you need. I mix it 4 to 1 with water. If you soak your parts overnight then rinse with strong water pressure everything looks new. Non corrosive and very mild on your hands..
Thanks for sharing your experience with this product. I guess some of these juvenile posters should make a video and post if they know it all already ;) and we'll watch their vids :)
SP Tuning, have you read the label on the bottle to discover what chemicals are in that stuff? The warning about alloys is concerning. How much does it affect the alloy whilst removing the carbon? In the old days on bikes (especially two strokes) we used to polish the combustion chambers like a mirror to avoid carbon buildup. We now know that’s potentially somewhat detrimental to the combustion process, but it stops carbon buildup completely if you do it right. By that I mean you first have to totally flatten the surface by removing all imperfections. Only then can you start to polish.
Really? So the heat and pressure inside the cylinders is no stronger than gravity acting on a little liquid? Horse apples. That seal you are imagining is likely more carbon baked onto the valves & seats. Reinvent something else, 'cause this wheel has been done.
hi mate i have the honda shuttle uk spec the 2.3 same as this engine any ideas on the right type of tool to remove the temp sensor as mine is a tiny bit rounded i was replaceing but it stopped me and don't really want to damage anything
The warning is made due to linings and (aluminum hydrogen enbattlement. never soak aluminum long in it.)that may be present since it's a parts cleaner not a specific internal or external motor parts cleaner. You don't want to clean carburetor internal parts with it. Per my brother who was a mechanic before his death in 2010. He taught what I do know about motors. He worked on everything from cars, tractors to diesel trucks for 40 yrs. He was fascinated by modern motors and electronics. Always learning new technologies. That I know of there was nothing that guy could not do. I sure miss him working on my vehicles.. the man was a genius with motors. Love your videos. If you bought it a truck driver delivered it. Happy 2022 to you and yours.😁
I've been using Chemdip since the early 80's to clean gunked-up carbs. Great stuff that had a very unique smell. I haven't found anything that works as fast or as good as that stuff.
@@a.m.7060 Thanks, one day I will try it. For cleaning an engine that isn't disassembled and still runs I use some stuff called Kreen Motor Tonic by Kano Labs. You add some to the gas & oil and it dissolves carbon, gunk, the varnish from the rings, and cleans the entire fuel system. It can be used on cars, boats, motorcycles, aircraft, or any gas or diesel engine. I used it in an engine that had to be rebuilt after 50,000 miles and it was remarkably clean internally. It's way better than Sea Foam or any other similar product. See: www.kroil.com/order-kroil-products/
Hey Thanks for the Tip! It's Super Appreciated. Kroil seriously sells a lot of Great sounding products!!! Somewhat unfortunately I can't just run-up to my local auto parts store I'll have to order it as its not sold in my local AutoZone or Advanced Auto Parts. You'd think a company thats been around since the late 1930's selling chems for auto repair shops would be in ever Auto Parts store but than again there are not a lot of Rolls-Royce dealerships everywhere. Thinking about it Rolls-Royce was a fantastic auto manufacturer they need to go back to making thier own drive-trains again with a bit of BMW'S performance influence. Thanks again Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
Question 2006 xc90 changed 2 valves 5 sliders fall out of and not sure if I put them on right places Does it matter and how to check if they are over corresponding valve can you help me, please. Your Video is great explains all in clear detail
I’ve wondered about cleaning carbon. While build up can be not good, the extra layer of carbon on a piston can improve the thermal efficiency of the engine. It’s an insulator.
The Berryman B-12 Chemtool is good- see the Project Farm comparison videos. It made the spark plugs look the cleanest when added to the gasoline, compared to the others.
I'll seriously check out the video your suggesting as I just bought a 2003 Z71 Chevy Tahoe with 93k and dealer serviced. If im say running to my local 7-11 during the night and punch it with a vehicle behind me I see a lot of carbon blowing out. I was thinking of using my favorite goto Seafoam spray to fog the intake and valves as its helped my other trucks and cars. Can this be sprayed into the intake like Seafoam spray top engine cleaner? Thanks for any advice its super appreciated! Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
@@eddiej.2354 SeaFoam isn't a very good solvent, but it does one thing very well, soften the carbon at the valve faces. Berryman's B12 isn't intended as an induction solvent. B12 is far superior for dissolving carbon, however, but I wouldn't try it as an induced one.
Good to know. Will be removing a head soon so I will give this a try. Looks much easier than what I have done on previous heads. Another benefit is you know the valves are sealing properly.
o•tor mō′tər ► n. Something, such as a machine or an engine, that produces or imparts motion. n. A device that converts any form of energy into mechanical energy, especially an internal-combustion engine or an arrangement of coils and magnets that converts electric current into mechanical power. n. A motor vehicle, especially an automobile
Wow! Question: if I just remove the intake manifold and pour som chemdip at the valves, leave it for an hour, scrub with a toothbrush, then extract the chemdip hunker carbon with the blue towels will that cause any harm doing it that way?
Paint reducer or "grow" wax and grease remover also removes it fast, dont even have to soak it for a while, just scrub it with a brass brush, and everything is clean within minutes.. I just built an f23, and currently also building an f22 like you.haha
How do you clean out the water jackets of any residual crud in head and block? Radiator cleaner in a tank/big tub? I used Kerosene in the past to remove oils/ grease and carbon (let it soak for a few days and then plastic brush it), but needed to come up with something to clean the water jackets...
U should always stuff ur piston skirts w rags, or and nvr alloww them to bang off the rod as it could start a stress crack and lead to a catastrophic failure in which ur puzzled by what what wrong.... just a tip from an old man
Cool . Can you use this product while the heads are still on the car . Kind of like seafoam . It clearly works wonders as many other product don't do half as good and clame to .
So can you pour chemdip into the cylinders to clean out carbon without rebuilding the engine? Then suck it out and cycle the engine with no spark plugs. Change the oil? Put fresh oil and run a bit and change again?
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Chem Dip is usually used for soaking carburetors, and there's some things about is. What you are showing here looks to be the "add to" can. It's for the 5gal Dip Bucket (w/parts basket). Reason I bring this up, is the 5gal bucket only has about 25% of the actual Chemical in it. The top part 75% of the bucket is oil that floats on top to keep it from evaporating. The "add-to" can that you have there is about 75% Chem & 25% (anti-evap) Oil. If you pour the stuff from the top of either of these, it won't do much (because it's just oil) you have to pull the stuff from the bottom to get the "good stuff".
The "good stuff" hiding in the bottom of these, actually eats metals. Leave it in there long enough and it starts to eat away the aluminum turning it black. Also you have to Neutralize it when you pull it out of the "Dip" buy washing it all with HOT water, other wise it will etch itself into the aluminum. It's why our wash basin is near the Carburetor bench in the shop, so we can pull a carb out and immediately scrub it down with hot water.
That all being said, be very careful with this stuff. Even with full PPE on, and thick rubber sleeved gloves, when I do a Carburetor I smell like carb cleaner for a couple days, and it turns your pee pink. It absorbs into anything made of Carbon, and we all are Carbon Based Lifeforms.
" Leave it in there long enough and it starts to eat away the aluminum turning it black". Yep, learned that the hard way back in 1980. Tough lesson for a 16 year old buying his own parts LOL.
Thanks!
👍🏼😊👍🏼
I wouldn't have known..🤔
Good to know on the safety side. I’m usually pretty brazen with the chemicals except for MEK, gas & methanol, turps…some things scare me enough to make sure I’m well protected. Gas is one most people don’t even bother with, but get enough of that shit soaking into your skin or breathing it in…not good. It’s probably less the fuel itself and more the additives, but regardless, I quit using it to clean shit a long time ago.
I was reading the website and yes the smaller gallon cans are worse for Aluminum....and to the Pink Pee....Hell NO! Thanks for the heads up.
Thank you for the advice. Very helpful!
That also checks for bent valves as it cleans. If you come back to it and 1 chamber is a lot lower than it was, there you go.
Bent valves is an unlikely cause of combustion chamber leak. More likely the valve to valve face seal needs to be corrected.
That was informational AND entertaining. Its amazing how many ppl make comments about things u said u would be addressing in a later video. I gave a thumbs up. Then i took my wife's phone and rewatched it with another 👍! You deserve more subs for the work u put in.
Thank you!!
The best thing to clean carbon is dot 4 brake fluid. Leave it to soak for about 20 minutes and wipe it away with a cloth. Brings up piston crowns like new.
Thanks, I'll have to try that
What would happen if you would put a Couple of ounces into the Gas Tank.
Or is Marvel Oil Better to Clean the top Pistons without Disassembling the Engine.
@@MB1Billion wouldn't hurt
Really? Wow gotta learn how to open the top engine and gotta try that
Dave Leighton, thanks for the tip!
Thanks for sharing since i no longer trust product adverts or their claims
Oh trust me this product does remove carbon ! Very toxic shit you do not want to leave on your skin or your skin will blister if left on too long I had that happen
I’m 56 years old it’s great to see the younger generation learning what I learned when I was 17..You guys do eventually figure it out
@@antoniononame3037 what’s your problem?
@@antoniononame3037 you need to see a shrink for those anger problems
@@antoniononame3037 the young generation don't know manners
@@BlueRice And can’t spell or write coherently.
@@antoniononame3037 Ignorant that’s what u are 100%
whoa, great product, that was really clean. Thanks for posting this
That Berryman is very potent. I run the fuel injector gas treatment in my car. It had a tiny amount of liquid on the bottom of the can. I set the can on my trunk for less than a minute. Ate through the clear coat and paint..
Imagine how well it cleans the injectors.
…and strips the lining from the gas tank.
Great job! I appreciate you taking the time and getting valuable information out there!
Yeah, we were doing this back in the 70’s using the 25gal. Drums of chemical, we called it cold tanking or cold dip as opposed to the hot tank we used for steel and iron. So, it’s not really an experiment, it’s a well established practice.
Just because you did it does not mean it's a well established practice
Dude is right been common practice by mechanics for years
@@jamesdodson9417 lmfao me barely learning how it works on a small one cylinder engine😂😂(not a car engine a motorcycle engine..)
Yeah see, back in the 70s there was all sorts of fun chemical stuff nobody really thought much about touching and inhaling that did a great job, but there’s this thing we have nowadays that everybody from that era seems to have, it’s called cancer...
-- Well explained. Did this 20 years ago with my tractor.
I used to have a very precious man do all the valve jobs in my aluminum heads he would put the heads in a big tank of carburetor cleaner and they will come out like brand new the only man I trusted with doing valve jobs and all my aluminum stuff back in the day lot of Fiats with burnt exhaust valves actually made a special l
Socket wrench just to torque the head bolts without taking a cam tower off
Nice work, just what I was looking for. Have a great day.
Had A 1970 Ford Maverick with an inline 6 cylinder engine and from the travel to work or home again (about five miles) it would "PING" like crazy. Finally pulled the head off and every piston had a layer of fuzzy black carbon. Had I had this stuff you showed I would of used it. Instead of working for a weekend to remove the carbon and reseat all the valves and other seals and gaskets and adjustments. Really cool man what that stuff does.
I just enjoyed the video man, and not to mention gave the 5000th like to your video :D
It *can* etch certain aluminum parts if left in too long as it says on the can; however I have left small carburetors in it for a week with no effect other than super clean.
i would try that solution thanks for sharing thats the way i check for valves not seating right whit fuel.
Thank you, next time I have ot do this to a head I know what works best. I used carb cleaner in a spray can. I pokes a hole in the can and drained it out and poured it into the head area and let is soak over night. The next morning I used a tooth brush and clean it and like you had a clean head. Your method looks like it did a better job over all with less scrubbing.
I wonder if this can be used for the routine manual cleaning of the top end of a direct injection engine (engine in tact, minus intake)?
Nice vid....gave a 👍, may I suggest "work benches" for the future?
It’s been awhile since I’ve used Berryman but i think it might say since 1928 on the can. Very aggressive stuff. It says don’t get it on your paint and I’ve learned the hard way to take great care as to not let this stuff get on your paint. Lol. Great video and nice project.
Someone else has discovered my magic in a can. I knew about this stuff nearly 15 yrs ago when the can it was delivered in was white at least for the Gunk version, which are probably the same chemical with a different label. I put oil/carbon baked internal engine parts in it and let them sit over night and couldn't believe the as new cast appearance they came out with. Advance auto is where I get mine and usually they have a 25% off coupon floating around somewhere to sweeten the deal, especially now given how the price has increased by about $10 to $28. I would advise sparing use because of how expensive it is. Apply a smaller amount to soften build up on large parts like cylinder heads and use a cheap secondary cleaner and high pressure water spray to finish the job. You don't want to end up paying the same price for cleaning at home that it would cost to just drop the parts off at a shop. A good high pressure washer might do a very effective job and eliminate the use of chemicals altogether for this job and any future for the cost of the machine and low cost for water as the cleaning solution. Another old time favorite for removing a lot of the crud is Easy Off oven cleaner, just be careful not to use it on aluminum with delicate surfaces (cylinder heads, alum blocks) that need microscopic smoothness.
there is a mild version of easy off i use.. but for the hard baked on stuff & on cast iron i use tergo industrial paint stripper... just not on ali gasket surfaces
Yeah, it works but its absolutely noxious.
Thanks a lot for all this great info.
Looks great, excellent job.
Full strength Simple Green works for carbon removal. Over night soak and 90% of the baked on carbon wipes off with a rag. Stubborn carbon may need a second soaking to remove. Simple Green is cheap from Big Box Stores and is safe to use. I have used Simple Green on several engine heads and pistons with good results.
can you do a piston soak with it? Does it corrode the aluminum, darkens it, if you leave it on for a while, let's say, overnight?
@@falsem1nd use Simple Green HD (the purple one) if you use it on aluminum. I just used it this weekend for my aluminum LS cylinder heads and I let it sit in there for six hours, took it out to brush them down, then rinse and repeat that step 4 or so times. A day later, they're almost like 90%+ clean.
A lot of beer kegs.. my best problem solving came at the bottom of kegs as well. It’s good to see honestly.
its a good sign when the chemical doesn't drain out right away too, that is a nice engine to rebuild. I don't know a whole lot, but the fact those valves still seal tightly even carbon coated is a good thing. Honda power :-)
Really impressive, thanks for the video
Next time you need to clean carbon, try dot 4 brake fluid. Put it on a cloth and start wiping. It immediately starts melting carbon. No soaking required
no kiddin? have to try that next time i've got a engine appart, Cheers!
What is dot 4 brake fluid?
Any pictures?
I have a burned pot. I can test on it. :)
Chem-Dip has phosphoric acid in it... That's why the 4 hour limit on soaking aluminum parts. Unless you want to etch or destroy thin aluminum part sections. Always wash Chem-Dip off with water to dilute and remove it from the surface. It will continue to eat aluminum surfaces if just wiped off.
SPOT ON
Flush out the water jackets the chem-dip went into also rinse the whole head with a garden hose to stop the chemical reaction.
I looked up the Chem-dip MSDS - it contains no acids, phosphoric or otherwise. As expected, it is caustic (pH 10-11), which is why you can't leave it on aluminum too long.
@@idontwantachannel3091 Chem-Dip, Tyme, and Gunk have all changed their formulas over the last dozen years or so. Thank California's Proposition 65 for that. The old stuff worked much better....but wasn't up to California standards and the manufacturers would rather make just one product instead of two. If the current stuff only works part way, it's guaranteed you'll buy more of it to get the job done. Be it a base or an acid, it's rough on aluminum. I stand corrected.......
Incorrect! www.berrymanproducts.com/assets/CD-A-Int-0996-R01.pdf
What did you run thru it to get all the chemicals out
chemdip is great,spray gasket remover works great on carbon deposits as well
I have used Berrymans Chem Dip for years. The stuff works great. Sea foam works too with brushing and a longer soak time.
will kerosene clean egr carbon if I let it soak 24h
“Easy off” oven cleaner.
@@ross_ulbright7779 but don’t use oven cleaner on aluminum it will ruin it and the corrosion will never stop
@@richardcrouse9074what’s suitable for thick carbon on aluminium
@@aqib2000 My best thought is media blasting
Concrete mixing tube, Medium or large I have three of them they come in real handy for either change or like you’re doing cleaning parts.
You just lost extra compression! LOL!
Yo guys, just use Easy Off oven cleaner. Carbon comes off with a wipe if you leave for 5 min. Don’t waste your money on this Chem-Dip stuff. Legit cheaper.
Some chemicals can cause "hydrogen embrittlement" in aluminum, this could be why the company does not want the product left on too long. We had problems in the Air Force with some chemical cleaner / degreasers that were not approved by the manufacturer used on our F-16's and had to have some skin removed and replaced.
Seriously Thank You for Your Service to our County its Super Appreciated!! Unfortunately in many cases UNDER APPRECIATED by the media! BUT THANK YOU!!
Could you provide a bit more in the details? Nothing that would get you in trouble but im curious. Thanks Again! Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
Since the head is off, why not just disassemble it (remove valves) and clean it entirely? I think you'll find significant carbon under the valve heads and/or in the intake/exhaust ports, especially if that engine is is direct injected. With the head disassembled, you'll also have access to inspect for any valve, valve seat or valve guide wear, as well as the head sealing surface for flatness.
Awesome Tip! Thanks Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
what do you do with your cleaning fluid once your done with it? there must be gallons of it, do you take it to a recycle place?
In the egr passagess for those intake manifolds but you should take the head apart valves on the drill chuck and a wire brush grinder
The carbon on the exhaust valve gets a lot hotter, and will turn to "glass", same thing that cause "splash fouling "of plugs when an engine is run at high speed after carbon build up. Probably need to chip it off.
You sir are a genius! Walnut blasting intake valves is ridiculous. There has to be a "solution" for this god awful procedure which my chevy dealers in town have no idea about but sell gdi cars. My cobalt ss turbo needs intake valve cleaning desperately. I am going to try this. THANK YOU!
I will let you know how it works.
Wear gloves. It will dissolve you too.
For the big diesels we leave the pistone crown situng in a tub off water over night and the carbo comes off pretty easy
Aluminum and Brass can literally disolve in Acidic Solutions like this. That's why you have to keep it under 4 hrs. Our Machine shop does the same with Acid Bath, but Iron motor blocks can stay in a lot longer
Very nice! How many miles were on that engine?
There are 2 grades of Chem Dip. Standard and Professional. You know you have the good stuff if it makes your shop wreak forever, the other doesn't do much.
Kroil does the same thing.....the smell hangs around for days.
@@mikerieck306
YES it does! PB Blaster also tends to linger.
Wtf? Even the tip of the sparkplugs were clean!
Geez I can smell it from here. Since you used that brass brush anyway, you didn't need the chem stink.
Lightning Cleaner is what I found unreal for removing baked on carbon the VW cylinder head in a water mixture (1:1)soaking for 8hrs then rinsed it off with tap water (no scrubbing) for a bright shiny finish.
Hey Thanks for the tip! Is that the name of the product you used? As I've never heard of it? Thanks Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
Am about to do my vw too 😮
Simple green... That's all you need. I mix it 4 to 1 with water. If you soak your parts overnight then rinse with strong water pressure everything looks new. Non corrosive and very mild on your hands..
Thanks for sharing your experience with this product. I guess some of these juvenile posters should make a video and post if they know it all already ;) and we'll watch their vids :)
Lmao 🤣
Nice video. Thanks for the content
SP Tuning, have you read the label on the bottle to discover what chemicals are in that stuff? The warning about alloys is concerning. How much does it affect the alloy whilst removing the carbon?
In the old days on bikes (especially two strokes) we used to polish the combustion chambers like a mirror to avoid carbon buildup. We now know that’s potentially somewhat detrimental to the combustion process, but it stops carbon buildup completely if you do it right. By that I mean you first have to totally flatten the surface by removing all imperfections. Only then can you start to polish.
Hey Looks good. It looks like the valves are seating otherwise the liquid would have leaked out. Nice job Nice tutorial video
Really? So the heat and pressure inside the cylinders is no stronger than gravity acting on a little liquid? Horse apples. That seal you are imagining is likely more carbon baked onto the valves & seats. Reinvent something else, 'cause this wheel has been done.
Yep!
......yes, it's a good sign. Things may change slightly though with temperature change .
What do you do with the used chemicals?
dang, thats pretty nice. I wonder if you can use this stuff to clean a DI engine intake ports?
Hey bro love your videos. Was wondering if you have a shop or do things like engine swaps for people I’m pretty close to you.
hi mate i have the honda shuttle uk spec the 2.3 same as this engine
any ideas on the right type of tool to remove the temp sensor as mine is a tiny bit rounded i was replaceing but it stopped me and don't really want to damage anything
The warning is made due to linings and (aluminum hydrogen enbattlement. never soak aluminum long in it.)that may be present since it's a parts cleaner not a specific internal or external motor parts cleaner. You don't want to clean carburetor internal parts with it. Per my brother who was a mechanic before his death in 2010. He taught what I do know about motors. He worked on everything from cars, tractors to diesel trucks for 40 yrs. He was fascinated by modern motors and electronics. Always learning new technologies. That I know of there was nothing that guy could not do. I sure miss him working on my vehicles.. the man was a genius with motors. Love your videos. If you bought it a truck driver delivered it. Happy 2022 to you and yours.😁
I've been using Chemdip since the early 80's to clean gunked-up carbs. Great stuff that had a very unique smell. I haven't found anything that works as fast or as good as that stuff.
Easy Off would probably do better. I used it myself and took the carbon off my pistons in 5-10mins.
@@a.m.7060 Thanks, one day I will try it. For cleaning an engine that isn't disassembled and still runs I use some stuff called Kreen Motor Tonic by Kano Labs. You add some to the gas & oil and it dissolves carbon, gunk, the varnish from the rings, and cleans the entire fuel system. It can be used on cars, boats, motorcycles, aircraft, or any gas or diesel engine. I used it in an engine that had to be rebuilt after 50,000 miles and it was remarkably clean internally. It's way better than Sea Foam or any other similar product. See: www.kroil.com/order-kroil-products/
@@kst357 Dang, I’ll try that too.
Hey Thanks for the Tip! It's Super Appreciated. Kroil seriously sells a lot of Great sounding products!!! Somewhat unfortunately I can't just run-up to my local auto parts store I'll have to order it as its not sold in my local AutoZone or Advanced Auto Parts. You'd think a company thats been around since the late 1930's selling chems for auto repair shops would be in ever Auto Parts store but than again there are not a lot of Rolls-Royce dealerships everywhere. Thinking about it Rolls-Royce was a fantastic auto manufacturer they need to go back to making thier own drive-trains again with a bit of BMW'S performance influence. Thanks again Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
@@kst357 Kano products are so expensive but they are worth the cost. I just can't spend the money on a "tool" I will only use once a year.
Can't go wrong with Berryman. Great vid 👍🏼
I know that shop smells like chem dip and will forever! ; )
Yip. That stuff is nasty.
Great video I used so much of that berrymans when i was a young buck i cant stand the smell of it anymore so i use kroil and it smells like pinesol.
Kroil smells soo good
Kroil is probably one of the greatest smells ever, used that stuff as my grandpa had it in his shop when I was about ten
I like the chem dip for rebuilding carburetors , it works well.
Question 2006 xc90 changed 2 valves 5 sliders fall out of and not sure if I put them on right places Does it matter and how to check if they are over corresponding valve can you help me, please. Your Video is great explains all in clear detail
I put a piston from a leaf blower in that stuff over nite and it turned it almost black and still didn't free up the stuck rings!!
the reason of 4 hours is that chemical reaction cause the aluminum to become brittle, you must wash that off with water
For the heavy crap on top of the heads paint stripper works well ,but you will need a jet wash .
That chem dip is good stuff super clean nice engine man should run pretty good
Been wrenching for 40yrs. Berryman makes some fine products.
You can tell this cat is young, no work table he's working off the floor.
haha ,he has no idea!!!
Fuck i feel you brothers
Yes his knees still work. lol
Hey, he has a work buckets! yeah as you get older you stop working on the ground.
Balonga! The older you get the more crap piles up on all your work surfaces. The only thing left is the floor!
I’ve wondered about cleaning carbon. While build up can be not good, the extra layer of carbon on a piston can improve the thermal efficiency of the engine. It’s an insulator.
Just wondering what it looks like on next tear down? Etching the metal.
The Berryman B-12 Chemtool is good- see the Project Farm comparison videos. It made the spark plugs look the cleanest when added to the gasoline, compared to the others.
I'll seriously check out the video your suggesting as I just bought a 2003 Z71 Chevy Tahoe with 93k and dealer serviced. If im say running to my local 7-11 during the night and punch it with a vehicle behind me I see a lot of carbon blowing out. I was thinking of using my favorite goto Seafoam spray to fog the intake and valves as its helped my other trucks and cars. Can this be sprayed into the intake like Seafoam spray top engine cleaner? Thanks for any advice its super appreciated! Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
@@eddiej.2354 SeaFoam isn't a very good solvent, but it does one thing very well, soften the carbon at the valve faces. Berryman's B12 isn't intended as an induction solvent. B12 is far superior for dissolving carbon, however, but I wouldn't try it as an induced one.
Woooooow, great stuff, informative, and thanks
Good to know. Will be removing a head soon so I will give this a try. Looks much easier than what I have done on previous heads. Another benefit is you know the valves are sealing properly.
how did it go?
Usually when it comes to aluminum the concern is pitting?
I just use CRC gasket stripper , It removes Carbon too .
Chances are both products have acetone in them. It just dissolves the oil and makes everything nice and clean.
Great video, the only thing is it’s an engine!, and not a motor, a motor is electrical,, thanks for sharing your thoughts and great videos
o•tor mō′tər
►
n.
Something, such as a machine or an engine, that produces or imparts motion.
n.
A device that converts any form of energy into mechanical energy, especially an internal-combustion engine or an arrangement of coils and magnets that converts electric current into mechanical power.
n.
A motor vehicle, especially an automobile
That’s serious work, you ought to have a cleaner, less cluttered facility to work in. Good job, though
Wow! Question: if I just remove the intake manifold and pour som chemdip at the valves, leave it for an hour, scrub with a toothbrush, then extract the chemdip hunker carbon with the blue towels will that cause any harm doing it that way?
Not all of your valves will be in the closed position my friend.
Paint reducer or "grow" wax and grease remover also removes it fast, dont even have to soak it for a while, just scrub it with a brass brush, and everything is clean within minutes..
I just built an f23, and currently also building an f22 like you.haha
Can we add this to the engine oil
Any idea how to remove the black carbon build up that is very difficult to remove from inside the foot long cannon chrome exhaust tips.
I just used a glass bead machine into the intake. Engine quit running BUT no more carbon buildup.
M.A.G A
.........supposedly this is gentle and been around for a while:
Piston Kleen Carbon Remover by Orison
awesome deep clean,what is the product name,do you have any link to buy
It is called Chem-Dip by Berryman, and they stock it at Autozone.
How do you clean out the water jackets of any residual crud in head and block? Radiator cleaner in a tank/big tub?
I used Kerosene in the past to remove oils/ grease and carbon (let it soak for a few days and then plastic brush it), but needed to come up with something to clean the water jackets...
Pressure washer just a wild guess lol
Is one of the ingredients xylene?
U should always stuff ur piston skirts w rags, or and nvr alloww them to bang off the rod as it could start a stress crack and lead to a catastrophic failure in which ur puzzled by what what wrong.... just a tip from an old man
Good way to see if any leak down through valves
What is the volatility of this chemical? Can the same aliquot be reused numerous times?
You should test it on GDI intake valves like bmw vw etc. We use expensive walnut blasting
Walnut blasting won't dissolve your skin.
Is it something you would use for a catalytic converter??
Cool . Can you use this product while the heads are still on the car . Kind of like seafoam . It clearly works wonders as many other product don't do half as good and clame to .
Mercury Power Tune works awesome also. I use it on my outboard and you should see the carbon that comes out. I also use it to clean my prop.
The old Ford upper cylinder lubricant was some NASTY stuff, too!!! LOL
can you spray it thru the intake while running and help clean the egr.......trucks deleted??
How many miles are on the engine?
I used Chem-Dip on carburetors , soaked them over night , they were aluminum . It didn't harm them
So can you pour chemdip into the cylinders to clean out carbon without rebuilding the engine? Then suck it out and cycle the engine with no spark plugs. Change the oil? Put fresh oil and run a bit and change again?
the chemical can damage some kinds of aluminum if left in too long mostly carb parts that are thin