When I painted my bobber, I put plastic up inside my shed, wrapped my ladder in plastic, and got a roll of wire to hang the parts so i could rotate them for painting. i added fans to exhaust the air, too. like a makeshift paint booth. it worked out well, IMO.
@@ACECafeBikes Yeah, it kinda was. And it was August, so it was HOT. Which dried the paint quickly [but not too quickly]. The upside is, I'm still using some of the leftover supplies to this day!
Wet sanding goes after each step: primer, color, clear. I think you just need more coats of each before sanding. Doing it like this is 100% a learning experience. I had like 5 days to do mine - and 3 of it was prep [evenings only]. Now you know what to do and what to avoid when you do it for real! I wish I had practice tins, LOL.
Yeah, I completely agree with this. Additionally I definitely think you went too course on the grit when wet sanding as well. I would incorporate the tip above but also when wet sanding, you typically want to use much finer grit sand paper like between 800-1000. When you do the final stages of clear, then you want to go up to a 2000 grit wet sand followed by very light polishing. This will give you really great results! 90% of a great paint job is all in the prep work and finishing! Otherwise, like everything else said and regardless of the minor issues, this was a great learning experience and you did an excellent job! There's no better teacher than history and experience, that's for sure! 😉 Edit: One last thing I meant to mention is (and I know you already realized this somewhat from the results) but regarding the over-spray and drips, you definitely went way too thick on the coats. Also when you're spraying the paint, do not hold the trigger the entire time back and forth. I could tell you were trying to at least run off each end before changing direction but even still, this definitely contributes to the paint being too heavy. You want short quick bursts back and forth however you want to start and stop the spray can away from the object you're painting. One of the biggest downsides to aerosol cans are their inconsistencies with air/paint mixture and the spray nozzle so you want to minimize the effects as much as possible. Obviously as it looks like you did, always make sure the can is shaken long and thoroughly enough and when you're done painting (if there's still paint left in the can to be used again), then turn the can upside down and do a couple quick bursts (not pointing at anything in particular) until there's just air coming out - this clears the nozzle and prevents it from clogging. I used to work at an auto body shop many years ago and picked up a lot of good tips and tricks from masters at their trades of over 30 years so I just wanted to share a bit of that knowledge in case any of it helps. Thanks again for sharing - definitely enjoyed this quick series and hope you had a very Happy St Patrick's day today as I write this!
@@fitzstermoto I sincerely appreciate your commitment in watching this series and for leaving such a detailed comment. I knew that 400 was a bit heavy, but I thought that was a good place to start and then move up to the higher grits - 1000,1500,2000 etc. I did learn a lot through this process and I will do better on the next one. I think more practice will be required before attempting the real thing. This truly is a craft worth learning. Thanks again ~ Mike
@@fitzstermoto Yes, what he said. IIRC, I wet-sanded with 1500 grit and then once the clear was wet-sanded, I went to 2000 or 3000 before polishing. It makes a huge difference.
@@ACECafeBikes I'm still watching the 3rd one... just hoping you use epoxy clear coat. I'm at the spot where you're removing tape - an exacto knife comes in handy for starting the peeling process without nicking the paint.
I think you're practicing here, but like I said in another comment - PLEASE use 2k Epoxy clear coat - that stuff really holds up 10x better than regular clear coat. I used it on my bobber, and 7 years later the bike looks like I just painted it. A friend of mine used regular clear coat... and within a year, it was trashed.
Yeah, this was totally just for practice - I made some mistakes - in hopes that I dont make those mistakes on the real job. I will definitely look into the 2x Epoxy Clear when I do the real tank - or any other painting. I really do appreciate you watching all of these John - that means a lot!!
IIRC, I did like 5 or 6 coats of primer and color, each. plenty of depth in case i sanded through. Sorry, just now finishing up watching [had to go riding, it was beautiful out today!]
I think there's a point where it's "dry enough" to peel the tape. If you got a good key on it, then the new paint should stick rather well, even after dry. IIRC, I waited a good long while before removing tape after painting.
That blue tape strip down the center of the tank was on there for a week, but I took it off only minutes after painting the silver metallic paint. I think the tape plays a big part in letting the paint seep. Before I paint my real tank I think I'll ring up some auto body shops and see what kind of tape they are using.
@@ACECafeBikes Good idea! Get what the pros use. I used 3M 2" blue painter's tape, and took it off a day later - no seepage that I could see, but I didn't do a design or anything, just masking off stuff I didn't want paint on.
stand the paint can in hot water get it 70 deg. or hotter found different brands different temp. will cut down on the orange peel. i paint a lot of bikes and parts 99.9% of the time they come out like a mirror. little secret take your time don't rush it. the prep work has to be right for the paint to be right. now get to painting
![เปิดใจ "อาจารย์เบียร์ คนตื่นธรรม" อดีตเคยสุดทุกทาง ถ้าใช้หนี้หมดไปบวชแน่ l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IxeE0xVhy08/mqdefault.jpg)
When I painted my bobber, I put plastic up inside my shed, wrapped my ladder in plastic, and got a roll of wire to hang the parts so i could rotate them for painting. i added fans to exhaust the air, too. like a makeshift paint booth. it worked out well, IMO.
I bet that was cool, sounds kind of like a crime scene. Im sure that worked great.
@@ACECafeBikes Yeah, it kinda was. And it was August, so it was HOT. Which dried the paint quickly [but not too quickly]. The upside is, I'm still using some of the leftover supplies to this day!
Wet sanding goes after each step: primer, color, clear. I think you just need more coats of each before sanding. Doing it like this is 100% a learning experience. I had like 5 days to do mine - and 3 of it was prep [evenings only]. Now you know what to do and what to avoid when you do it for real! I wish I had practice tins, LOL.
Thanks buddy, yeah this took about 9 days to do. Long process. I'll keep the wet sanding tip in my mi d for next time.
@@ACECafeBikes I believe it! I rushed mine due to my time constraints, and it shows.
Yeah, I completely agree with this. Additionally I definitely think you went too course on the grit when wet sanding as well. I would incorporate the tip above but also when wet sanding, you typically want to use much finer grit sand paper like between 800-1000. When you do the final stages of clear, then you want to go up to a 2000 grit wet sand followed by very light polishing. This will give you really great results! 90% of a great paint job is all in the prep work and finishing! Otherwise, like everything else said and regardless of the minor issues, this was a great learning experience and you did an excellent job! There's no better teacher than history and experience, that's for sure! 😉
Edit: One last thing I meant to mention is (and I know you already realized this somewhat from the results) but regarding the over-spray and drips, you definitely went way too thick on the coats. Also when you're spraying the paint, do not hold the trigger the entire time back and forth. I could tell you were trying to at least run off each end before changing direction but even still, this definitely contributes to the paint being too heavy. You want short quick bursts back and forth however you want to start and stop the spray can away from the object you're painting. One of the biggest downsides to aerosol cans are their inconsistencies with air/paint mixture and the spray nozzle so you want to minimize the effects as much as possible. Obviously as it looks like you did, always make sure the can is shaken long and thoroughly enough and when you're done painting (if there's still paint left in the can to be used again), then turn the can upside down and do a couple quick bursts (not pointing at anything in particular) until there's just air coming out - this clears the nozzle and prevents it from clogging.
I used to work at an auto body shop many years ago and picked up a lot of good tips and tricks from masters at their trades of over 30 years so I just wanted to share a bit of that knowledge in case any of it helps. Thanks again for sharing - definitely enjoyed this quick series and hope you had a very Happy St Patrick's day today as I write this!
@@fitzstermoto I sincerely appreciate your commitment in watching this series and for leaving such a detailed comment. I knew that 400 was a bit heavy, but I thought that was a good place to start and then move up to the higher grits - 1000,1500,2000 etc. I did learn a lot through this process and I will do better on the next one. I think more practice will be required before attempting the real thing. This truly is a craft worth learning. Thanks again ~ Mike
@@fitzstermoto Yes, what he said. IIRC, I wet-sanded with 1500 grit and then once the clear was wet-sanded, I went to 2000 or 3000 before polishing. It makes a huge difference.
I dig the design
Thanks buddy
THE TRIFECTA IS MINE!
FIRST on all 3 vids :D
Absolutely - this was amazing - I hope it wasnt to boring for you to watch all three back to back to back
@@ACECafeBikes I'm still watching the 3rd one... just hoping you use epoxy clear coat.
I'm at the spot where you're removing tape - an exacto knife comes in handy for starting the peeling process without nicking the paint.
@@RoadReality nope, no 2x Expoy this time 🤣
I think you're practicing here, but like I said in another comment - PLEASE use 2k Epoxy clear coat - that stuff really holds up 10x better than regular clear coat. I used it on my bobber, and 7 years later the bike looks like I just painted it. A friend of mine used regular clear coat... and within a year, it was trashed.
Yeah, this was totally just for practice - I made some mistakes - in hopes that I dont make those mistakes on the real job. I will definitely look into the 2x Epoxy Clear when I do the real tank - or any other painting. I really do appreciate you watching all of these John - that means a lot!!
IIRC, I did like 5 or 6 coats of primer and color, each. plenty of depth in case i sanded through. Sorry, just now finishing up watching [had to go riding, it was beautiful out today!]
No worries, glad that you had a chance to get out and ride. I only did 2 coats of paint and 3 coats of primer. Thanks again for all of the advice
@@ACECafeBikes I'm always glad to share the advice, however unsolicited it may be :D
I think there's a point where it's "dry enough" to peel the tape. If you got a good key on it, then the new paint should stick rather well, even after dry. IIRC, I waited a good long while before removing tape after painting.
That blue tape strip down the center of the tank was on there for a week, but I took it off only minutes after painting the silver metallic paint. I think the tape plays a big part in letting the paint seep. Before I paint my real tank I think I'll ring up some auto body shops and see what kind of tape they are using.
@@ACECafeBikes Good idea! Get what the pros use. I used 3M 2" blue painter's tape, and took it off a day later - no seepage that I could see, but I didn't do a design or anything, just masking off stuff I didn't want paint on.
We will do a phone call before you do it next time. I have a few pointers for you
Awesome, thanks buddy!
stand the paint can in hot water get it 70 deg. or hotter found different brands different temp. will cut down on the orange peel. i paint a lot of bikes and parts 99.9% of the time they come out like a mirror. little secret take your time don't rush it. the prep work has to be right for the paint to be right. now get to painting
Thanks for the tip, will 100% try this next time!! Thanks so much
Grease 2
👍
Don't get gas on it.
Yep, just for practice, I'll use a better clear when doing the real one 💪🍻