Waterless cleaning of the coils is very simple. It requires a screwdriver, a dustbuster or shop vac, a towel, and 2 cans of cleaner. Unhook your shore power and disconnect the house batteries. Remove the shroud and the evap coil cover, and place them on the ground. Put the towel down under the evap coils so the sludge doesn't run down into the interior. Remove the freeze sensor/thermistor from the fins, and be sure to make note of exactly where it was (or take a picture). Use the dustbuster to suck up the big stuff like leaves and big dust clumps, then run the fin brush from the coil cleaner can over both sets of coils. Use an up & down motion to loosen dirt and straighten the fins. Spray both sets of coils with foaming waterless cleaner. For the evaporator coils I use Nu-Calgon 417175 Evap Foam, and for the condenser I use Frost King ACF19 Foam Coil Cleaner. (The Frost King comes with a fin brush built into the cap) Let it fully foam and fully dissolve back into a liquid. Repeat if needed, until the coils are clean. You can use a spray bottle of water to help move things along, if needed. Use the towel to pat the coils dry and remove any lingering emulsified dirt. Be sure to wipe down the fan and make sure it turns freely. Inspect all wires for heat damage (insulation color change). Check the weep holes on the cover mount to be sure they aren't clogged. Put the freeze sensor back *exactly* where it was, and give it a good shove to make sure it stays put. Put the covers back on, and restore power.
It’s called a “Multimeter” Josh, LOL! You can get them for around $15. They can also check battery voltage, verify live/dead circuits and trace wires using the continuity function. 😊 IMHO it’s a required tool.
My air went out a couple yrs ago night 1 of a weeklong trip. Dont remember exactly what happened but it was done. Tracked one down a hundred miles away from where we were, and changed it out myself. Fun times. As the saying goes, "I am the warranty"
We have a Progressive Industires surge protector and line analyzer. We love it as it checks the power from the pedestal including voltage on each line, ground and cycles. It will take about 2 minutes to complete its testing then it will flip on and pass power to the RV, excellent. Filters and cooling coils being clean is the most important. Great video.
We are gate guarding in south Texas oil fields right now. Clean the filters daily and the coils monthly. We also run a second portable A/C to assist the top unit, which allows it to cycle on and off. Knock on wood we are able to stay a comfortable 77-78 inside with 100-108 outside.
My experience with my AC / heating was all about the wrong wiring from the factory. I really don’t want to bore you with the story but after months in the shop and back and forth warranty red tape that’s all it was and it took longer than necessary but we were grateful to have it for the trip with the grand kids this 4 rth of July Thanks 🙏 Josh again for your super duper out put to us to be able to RV with confidence!!! 👍😁🥰
Josh, what a great change of pace, maybe make a series of this type of assistance, even get some of the team involved as well. maybe a tech, or one of your call centre problem solvers. in Australia we run 240V systems @ 15amps. i watch grateful glamper and see that America has 30A and 50A systems, so i wonder if some of the air con issues being faced come down to this compatibility issue. what are your thought about the youtuber Liz Amazing, and her fight against RV dealers and manufacturers regarding RV repairs and lemons
would love to see more of this style of videos. also too bad I'm in New England area, a little too far of a trip for when it comes time to get my camper.
My RV stopped working while hooked up at an RV resort. When I tried starting it there was a clicking noise like it wanted to. After a bit of research I replaced the capacitor under the roof shroud and the thing has worked like a champ since then. A new capacitor ran about 40 bucks.
The biggest problem is not being installed properly from the manufacturer. The cold and return air are mixing and or being blown into roof cavities. You can buy a kit or fix it up with some foam pieces and foil tape. Everyone should pull their filter cover off and see what's going on in there. You may be surprised at what you see.
I’m confused, you never want an AC to vent INTO the roof, ever. I think you meant the vent is blocked? We’ve had a few times where we had to get on the roof, remove the AC cover and blow out the grills to improve airflow.
Yep. My brand new RV with two ACs had no separation from the cold outflow and warm inflow, thus it froze up within 20 minutes consistently. Also meaning the freeze sensor was not working.
To unfreeze it had to run it on fan only mode. Then it rained water, and ice out of. Enough to soak a towel clear through. I got some aluminum tape and sealed everything up. Its much better. Also had a piece of this tape from the very poor job of install by the manufacturer, block the only ducted vent to the back bedroom effectively making it so that room got no air flow at all.
I have our trusted loal RV mech service the a/c annually, when he treats the roof and repacks the wheel bearings. It's worth an hour of his (expensive) time to be reassuired we'll sould have cool air in our warm New Mexico summers and I don't have to crawl up on the roof on my aging knees.
My Imagine A/C quit and I found it to be the motor start and run Capacitor. They are pretty standard and I now have a spare as they could not figure it out and replaced the whole A/C unit.
One other thing that can result in the A/C not keeping the trailer cool is the thermistor location. Some such as the Furrion units used in many Grand Design trailers are installed in the air return of the A/C unit. This results in short cycling as the return air sucks in cooler air from the dump or nearby vents the fix is to relocate the thermistor to outside the unit away from drafts. There are relocation kits you can buy to do this. Another cause of short cycles is vents blowing directly on the thermistor. The resolution is to redirect the vent or move the thermistor. Condensation around the A/C unit can also be caused by air leaks due to manufacturer sloppiness. I have seen gaps and lack of tape in A/C units both of which will allow warm humid air to mix with cold air along the A/C framing. The result is condensation inside the air handler where the pan cannot catch it and drain it outside. It is worth the time to buy some silver tape and go over the interior of a new trailer's A/C to fix the factory taping job. A side benefit is you will usually improve the efficiency of the unit by not sending cold air into the attic. If you have to recharge an A/C unit it means there is a leak. Rather than waste money on the expensive Freon that will leak out again you are better off replacing the unit.
If I had $1 for every time I've seen someone post in the Rv camping for newbies group "I went out to boondock and my outlets weren't working?" As an electrical teacher, It's a bit of a reality check for me to remember most folks really don't understand how electricity works. We just take it for granted because we work around it all the time and after awhile it's easy to assume everyone knows this stuff. They most definitely do NOT know this stuff. That's why folks like us are here to help.
Absolutely! The RVElectricity channel has a couple of excellent videos done by Mike Sokol, RV master electrician and guru of all things related to RV power.
You kinda covered with looking under cover. I once got called to park for no A/C. IT TRYS NO FAN. So I pull cover and got stung. There was huge wasp nest blocking the fan. Look and be careful when pulling that cover!
They have chemical coil cleaner, most cases you can just take the cover off and use a garden hose with a nozzle . Spray from the inside out to push the debris outside of the coil, try not to spray to the inside of the coil try to spray from the inside out
Last summer my A/C stopped working on Low: no Low Fan or Low Cool. Only the High settings worked. I paid a guy $175 to come out and pop the knob off and pop it back on. I wish I would’ve known about that handy trick before calling him.
Hey Josh, this has nothing to do with air conditioning, however, can you do a video or do some sort of info on why it takes so long to get your camper fixed. If it’s under warranty or if it’s not under warranty, it doesn’t matter, you never can get anything fixed unless it takes three months. That is just crazy and unacceptable. I see so many people asking why it’s taking so long to get work done. I know some of it has to do with supply chain, but you can only use that excuse for so long. Thanks!
Same with me. Works great for a while then won't blow cold. Shut it down for a while and then it will work again. Wondering if it's low on freon but without ports how are you supposed to diagnose that?
For the evaporator coils I use Nu-Calgon 417175 Evap Foam, and for the condenser I use Frost King ACF19 Foam Coil Cleaner. The Frost King also comes with a fin brush built into the cap.
Thanks for the info! Speaking of air conditioners, we are moving from a motorhome to a travel trailer to increase our cargo carrying capacity, but I can’t find anything under 30 feet that has an option for A/C with heat pump. Is that just totally unheard of? I hate giving up the heat pump’s dehumidifying function in cool damp weather.
You might have to work with your dealer and see if you can get one added. Very uncommon for manufacturers to add a heat pump to a travel trailer. Additionally, make sure that the dealer gets you a heat pump and not just an AC with a heat strip. Or just get a portable dehumidifier.
@@JoshtheRVNerd Thanks! What I really want is the Eagle’s a/c heat pump as an option for the JayFeather. Or an Eagle that’s less than 30 feet. I’m sure if I tell Jayco they’ll arrange it for me haha
I suggest the 100/55/15 system. Open 100% of the windows and drive at 55mph for 15 minutes. Your RV interior temp will then be whatever the ambient temperature is.
Hello. Just bought 2025 jayco swift 20 T. No sewer hose storage? Can you fit the telescopic sewer hose holder on a class B ? I can’t find any videos and the dealer is no help🤔
Had a newbie couldn’t figure out why their a/c wouldn’t work and later when their slide wouldn’t go in. Their rv sales rep told them to keep battery cutoff turned off if they aren’t driving it. So, when they were on shore power, their. battery was not charging. I was not troubleshooting it for them, but if I remember correctly, the A/C system needs 12v for full functionality. I did mention this and help them find the ports to manually close the slides.
Well freedom 257 was retired and replaced by the 258 Freedom generally does everything apex does and then more to put it quickly but I’m not able to list it all out here
Waterless cleaning of the coils is very simple. It requires a screwdriver, a dustbuster or shop vac, a towel, and 2 cans of cleaner.
Unhook your shore power and disconnect the house batteries. Remove the shroud and the evap coil cover, and place them on the ground. Put the towel down under the evap coils so the sludge doesn't run down into the interior. Remove the freeze sensor/thermistor from the fins, and be sure to make note of exactly where it was (or take a picture).
Use the dustbuster to suck up the big stuff like leaves and big dust clumps, then run the fin brush from the coil cleaner can over both sets of coils. Use an up & down motion to loosen dirt and straighten the fins.
Spray both sets of coils with foaming waterless cleaner. For the evaporator coils I use Nu-Calgon 417175 Evap Foam, and for the condenser I use Frost King ACF19 Foam Coil Cleaner. (The Frost King comes with a fin brush built into the cap) Let it fully foam and fully dissolve back into a liquid. Repeat if needed, until the coils are clean. You can use a spray bottle of water to help move things along, if needed.
Use the towel to pat the coils dry and remove any lingering emulsified dirt. Be sure to wipe down the fan and make sure it turns freely. Inspect all wires for heat damage (insulation color change). Check the weep holes on the cover mount to be sure they aren't clogged.
Put the freeze sensor back *exactly* where it was, and give it a good shove to make sure it stays put. Put the covers back on, and restore power.
Considering, how many times friends have called me. You just helped more people than you know.
Same here. I bookmarked just to share with the next people who call me. We'll done, Josh!
Hope it helps!
It’s called a “Multimeter” Josh, LOL! You can get them for around $15. They can also check battery voltage, verify live/dead circuits and trace wires using the continuity function. 😊 IMHO it’s a required tool.
But is it pronounced multimeter or multimeter?
@@JoshtheRVNerd - Mult-I-meter. In Texas that’d be Mult-ahh-meter.
My air went out a couple yrs ago night 1 of a weeklong trip. Dont remember exactly what happened but it was done. Tracked one down a hundred miles away from where we were, and changed it out myself. Fun times. As the saying goes, "I am the warranty"
We have a Progressive Industires surge protector and line analyzer. We love it as it checks the power from the pedestal including voltage on each line, ground and cycles. It will take about 2 minutes to complete its testing then it will flip on and pass power to the RV, excellent. Filters and cooling coils being clean is the most important. Great video.
Those are so good. Everyone should have something similar
We are gate guarding in south Texas oil fields right now. Clean the filters daily and the coils monthly. We also run a second portable A/C to assist the top unit, which allows it to cycle on and off. Knock on wood we are able to stay a comfortable 77-78 inside with 100-108 outside.
Good insights. Gotta keep on top of it
My experience with my AC / heating was all about the wrong wiring from the factory.
I really don’t want to bore you with the story but after months in the shop and back and forth warranty red tape that’s all it was and it took longer than necessary but we were grateful to have it for the trip with the grand kids this 4 rth of July
Thanks 🙏 Josh again for your super duper out put to us to be able to RV with confidence!!! 👍😁🥰
Josh, what a great change of pace, maybe make a series of this type of assistance, even get some of the team involved as well. maybe a tech, or one of your call centre problem solvers.
in Australia we run 240V systems @ 15amps.
i watch grateful glamper and see that America has 30A and 50A systems, so i wonder if some of the air con issues being faced come down to this compatibility issue.
what are your thought about the youtuber Liz Amazing, and her fight against RV dealers and manufacturers regarding RV repairs and lemons
I have a batch coming actually
Love these kind of videos Josh
My pleasure!
would love to see more of this style of videos. also too bad I'm in New England area, a little too far of a trip for when it comes time to get my camper.
I get to them when I can and have a whole playlist I’ve made over the years
My RV stopped working while hooked up at an RV resort. When I tried starting it there was a clicking noise like it wanted to. After a bit of research I replaced the capacitor under the roof shroud and the thing has worked like a champ since then. A new capacitor ran about 40 bucks.
Thank you Uncle Josh for making this video, I sincerely hope that you are feeling way better now! ❤️
Thanks, Josh.
The biggest problem is not being installed properly from the manufacturer. The cold and return air are mixing and or being blown into roof cavities. You can buy a kit or fix it up with some foam pieces and foil tape. Everyone should pull their filter cover off and see what's going on in there. You may be surprised at what you see.
I’m confused, you never want an AC to vent INTO the roof, ever. I think you meant the vent is blocked? We’ve had a few times where we had to get on the roof, remove the AC cover and blow out the grills to improve airflow.
Correct. That's what I meant.😊
@@CommonCentsOutdoorsman - Understood!
Yep. My brand new RV with two ACs had no separation from the cold outflow and warm inflow, thus it froze up within 20 minutes consistently. Also meaning the freeze sensor was not working.
To unfreeze it had to run it on fan only mode. Then it rained water, and ice out of. Enough to soak a towel clear through. I got some aluminum tape and sealed everything up. Its much better. Also had a piece of this tape from the very poor job of install by the manufacturer, block the only ducted vent to the back bedroom effectively making it so that room got no air flow at all.
You are always so helpful, thanks again for the video
Thanks Josh. Great info.
Thanks for the info , I like your how to videos.
Thanks for watching!
I have our trusted loal RV mech service the a/c annually, when he treats the roof and repacks the wheel bearings. It's worth an hour of his (expensive) time to be reassuired we'll sould have cool air in our warm New Mexico summers and I don't have to crawl up on the roof on my aging knees.
Thanks, Josh good information
Hi Josh, thank you for the tips, and thank you for everything you do. When I am ready I will travel from Iowa to see you.
We have two stores in Iowa to serve you!!
Thanks Nerd!!
My Imagine A/C quit and I found it to be the motor start and run Capacitor. They are pretty standard and I now have a spare as they could not figure it out and replaced the whole A/C unit.
Good tip
One other thing that can result in the A/C not keeping the trailer cool is the thermistor location. Some such as the Furrion units used in many Grand Design trailers are installed in the air return of the A/C unit. This results in short cycling as the return air sucks in cooler air from the dump or nearby vents the fix is to relocate the thermistor to outside the unit away from drafts. There are relocation kits you can buy to do this. Another cause of short cycles is vents blowing directly on the thermistor. The resolution is to redirect the vent or move the thermistor.
Condensation around the A/C unit can also be caused by air leaks due to manufacturer sloppiness. I have seen gaps and lack of tape in A/C units both of which will allow warm humid air to mix with cold air along the A/C framing. The result is condensation inside the air handler where the pan cannot catch it and drain it outside. It is worth the time to buy some silver tape and go over the interior of a new trailer's A/C to fix the factory taping job. A side benefit is you will usually improve the efficiency of the unit by not sending cold air into the attic.
If you have to recharge an A/C unit it means there is a leak. Rather than waste money on the expensive Freon that will leak out again you are better off replacing the unit.
Good points Ty
Thanks. Very educational
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the tips!
Thanks Nerd
Check for a nest or check your capacitor. Just like at home, or it could be a contactor.
If I had $1 for every time I've seen someone post in the Rv camping for newbies group "I went out to boondock and my outlets weren't working?"
As an electrical teacher, It's a bit of a reality check for me to remember most folks really don't understand how electricity works. We just take it for granted because we work around it all the time and after awhile it's easy to assume everyone knows this stuff.
They most definitely do NOT know this stuff. That's why folks like us are here to help.
Thanks Nerd! ;-)
You bet!
Is a “Soft Start” on the AC compressor something safe to install?
Absolutely! The RVElectricity channel has a couple of excellent videos done by Mike Sokol, RV master electrician and guru of all things related to RV power.
@@stormraven4183 agree. I installed soft start in spring now instead of a clunck when starting it is a shove. I am happy with it
There is definitely a generational learning curve here. Ha.
Thanks nerd 🍺 🤓. Alot of good information.
Thanks for video
Most welcome
You kinda covered with looking under cover. I once got called to park for no A/C. IT TRYS NO FAN. So I pull cover and got stung. There was huge wasp nest blocking the fan. Look and be careful when pulling that cover!
They have chemical coil cleaner, most cases you can just take the cover off and use a garden hose with a nozzle . Spray from the inside out to push the debris outside of the coil, try not to spray to the inside of the coil try to spray from the inside out
Last summer my A/C stopped working on Low: no Low Fan or Low Cool. Only the High settings worked. I paid a guy $175 to come out and pop the knob off and pop it back on. I wish I would’ve known about that handy trick before calling him.
Great vid,
Ty!
Thanks nerd
Hey Josh, this has nothing to do with air conditioning, however, can you do a video or do some sort of info on why it takes so long to get your camper fixed. If it’s under warranty or if it’s not under warranty, it doesn’t matter, you never can get anything fixed unless it takes three months. That is just crazy and unacceptable. I see so many people asking why it’s taking so long to get work done. I know some of it has to do with supply chain, but you can only use that excuse for so long. Thanks!
I actually think I answer that here m.th-cam.com/video/6hcrBqKD52k/w-d-xo.html
@@JoshtheRVNerd thank you! I missed that one. 🤦♀️
My AC started having issues this year. Sometimes it works great and other times it will be 89 degrees in the AC is running on low...
Hmm.. wonder if the control board is going screwy
Same with me. Works great for a while then won't blow cold. Shut it down for a while and then it will work again. Wondering if it's low on freon but without ports how are you supposed to diagnose that?
Maybe your AC doesn’t work because your spare tire is in the travel trailer. Lol
Pretty sure it’s not working because I had fish for dinner last week
Yes You Have To SERVICE IT. It's Just Like Your New Car's And Pick Up Truck's.
Thanks Uncle Josh! But you have to tell us why there's a tire in that unit 🤣
Sometimes that’s where mfgs ship them
Viper evaporator and coil cleaner no rinse
Thank you
Thanks nerd check with maintenance team to find out what cleaner to use and let us know
For the evaporator coils I use Nu-Calgon 417175 Evap Foam, and for the condenser I use Frost King ACF19 Foam Coil Cleaner. The Frost King also comes with a fin brush built into the cap.
If your unit needs to be recharged, you have a leak and need to get it repaired. All HVAC systems are sealed. Just an FYI.
Thanks for the info! Speaking of air conditioners, we are moving from a motorhome to a travel trailer to increase our cargo carrying capacity, but I can’t find anything under 30 feet that has an option for A/C with heat pump. Is that just totally unheard of? I hate giving up the heat pump’s dehumidifying function in cool damp weather.
You might have to work with your dealer and see if you can get one added. Very uncommon for manufacturers to add a heat pump to a travel trailer. Additionally, make sure that the dealer gets you a heat pump and not just an AC with a heat strip. Or just get a portable dehumidifier.
Towables rarely have heat pumps on airs but its started happening
Look for GE Profile airs like on Catalina’s
@@JoshtheRVNerd Thanks! What I really want is the Eagle’s a/c heat pump as an option for the JayFeather. Or an Eagle that’s less than 30 feet. I’m sure if I tell Jayco they’ll arrange it for me haha
Thnx nerd
I suggest the 100/55/15 system. Open 100% of the windows and drive at 55mph for 15 minutes. Your RV interior temp will then be whatever the ambient temperature is.
Great vid. Can anybody tell me the brand and model # of the RV seen in this vid from 00:40 to 3:02. I really like that interior! Thx!
That’s actually a several year old used Jay flight 29rks
@@JoshtheRVNerd Excellent! Thx for the quick response (and on a Sunday afternoon too). I really liked how that kitchen was put together.
Most RV parks will be in denial if you complain about power issues.
lol it’s so true
I bought the cheapest Coleman in the world. Has a window shaker in it.if it breaks, I can replace it for about 400 bucks at Lowe's. 😂😂😂
#RVNerdHerd 🎉 😊 🎉
Hello. Just bought 2025 jayco swift 20 T. No sewer hose storage? Can you fit the telescopic sewer hose holder on a class B ? I can’t find any videos and the dealer is no help🤔
Apologies I am not familiar enough with those to feel qualified to get you insights and don’t want to steer you wrong
Had a newbie couldn’t figure out why their a/c wouldn’t work and later when their slide wouldn’t go in.
Their rv sales rep told them to keep battery cutoff turned off if they aren’t driving it. So, when they were on shore power, their. battery was not charging.
I was not troubleshooting it for them, but if I remember correctly, the A/C system needs 12v for full functionality.
I did mention this and help them find the ports to manually close the slides.
🎉#NerdHerd
Can you compare apex 256 vs 245 vs freedom 257bhs
Well freedom 257 was retired and replaced by the 258
Freedom generally does everything apex does and then more to put it quickly but I’m not able to list it all out here
😁
👍🍻💥