Thanks. My son has been having issues with starting when he fills up his tank. I used the same DTC scanner you have and came up with P1450 and P0456. I didn't know where to look for the purge valve but thankfully I clicked on your video. Gonna test it and hopefully that's the problem. Seems common. Thanks again.
The heat shield on the line is allegedly made of soy. Rats love it. A $300 repair, and the dealer told me exactly how to prevent it, and even gave me some free advice and components. How is that not subject to a recall?
So I have this code. Would this make the engine try to die after putting in fuel? At all other times, it's fine. Starts and runs normally. Only after I put in fuel, it tries to die, so I give it a little gas for about 5 seconds, and then it's fine again
So i have a 2011 Ford e350 v8 giving me this code. If I open the gas cap all this pressure is released. I changed the part under the hood with a ford part and i still get this code. Also i haven't been able to fill up without it clicking all the time.
The purge valve isn’t designed to have excessive vacuum pulled on it that way. The EVAP system works with less than 1 psi. Proper way to test the purge valve to pull vacuum on the intake side of it. Just FYI.
@Carrot Top Nick is correct. Gauge was hooked up incorrectly. The intake (or throttle body in this case) is to the left (front). Fuel tank side on the right (firewall).
I have a 2014 Ford Escape and had the purge valve replaced at 64,000 miles at a cost of $400. I'm now at 112,000 with the same problem. First it shudders then hard to start and the code reads 1450. It's unfortunate that the Ford Focus with the same engine has this problem and there is a recall on it but not the Escape.
@William Vaughan My car now has a 186,000 miles and I just had to have the purge valve replaced again. This time it was $350.00. The part was ordered from the dealership so it was around $95.00 and the rest was labor. It sucks having had to replace this 3 times.
@@cele8910 This is the 4th time my 2016 ford edge sport has had this code. The last 2 times I had to fight with the dealership to fix the same issue that was within a year of each problem. They keep wanting me to pay for a smoke test for $350 and I have to fight them on this as well. Wish me luck ! I’m taking it in for the 4th time tomorrow! They really need to recall this part.
I have a 2010 milan and about to change it again myself for the third time in 2 yrs. I'm thinking I might also have a different issue if this keeps happening. But it does fix it for about 10 months
I have changed them both and still having p1450, any thoughts? It's the Unable to bleed up fuel tank vacuum p1450 Update* drove it for 2 days and the code went away.
Cars have a learn process in their programming. If the ECM no longer detects the fault, it will remove the fault from memory. Just takes a few miles/kilometers to get it to do that.
@@brandonquinn6176 Hello. It worked very well indeed! It turns out it was causing a few problems besides just check engine light. The car would stutter/shudder at 40-45mph before I replaced the purge valve. Also, whenever I filled the gas tank from empty the car would experience a hard starting process where it would crank a long time to start up ( if it was say 1/2 tank with gas it wouldn't happen). After replacing this purge valve all those problems disappeared. Oh, and prior to this the idle was always rough and sometimes the engine would shut off too! No more shudder at 40-45mph, no more hard starting, AND I have not had the check engine light return since that time. It's been about a month now. BTW, I replaced the spark plugs and they really looked chewed up bad! I also replaced the ignition coils. I also replaced the A/C Pressure Switch ($25 part easy to replace) because the A/C had a good charge but it was not engaging the A/C clutch. It solved that problem. I also replaced all the fuel injectors (easy to do also, time consuming but easy, cost for the injector set of 6 was $70). I also cleaned the Mass Air Flow Sensor ( You just spray the brick colored resistor with Mass Air Flow Cleaner Spray, not expensive). I also replaced the Throttle Body ($73, easy to do also). The reason I replaced so many things is because my 2013 Ford XLT Explorer has over 125,000 miles. I didn't buy it new so after checking it appears these parts needed to be replaced to ensure reliability. The only thing I plan to do now is get the Rear Suspension Toe links replaced at the dealer tomorrow because of the safety recall (19S17). They say these can break and cause loss of control which may cause an accident or worse! I did go look under the rear of the car to check if mine were cracked or borderline but I did not see anything wrong. But, after closer inspection I could see that the way these Toe Links were designed it's just a matter of time before I run over enough train crossings to cause a fracture and then maybe I crash into something! I also took close-up picture for my archives. I will be also marking them later today and taking pictures again to make sure that they are actually changed as the recall dictates. Anyway, at this time the vehicle is running very well, acceleration has also improved. I may look at the vacuum lines next for any leaks. Ok, that's pretty much it for now. I hope this helps of you with 2013 Ford Explorers out there. Now that I think of it, the steering power assist rack and pinion had also failed about a year ago (Ford did not have my VIN in the recall, some others did). I had to muscle steer the car for a month before I found a dealer to replace it for $2,000 with warranty. Also, now that I recall further, last summer the A/C condenser had a leak. Replacing it cost another $2,000 because it is hiding behind the dash (labor was the biggest cost). Anyway, I can say since purchasing this car used with 76,000 miles I have spent about $5,000 to get it working properly since then. Have a great day!
@@brandonquinn6176 Sorry I added a lot of extra info. To answer just your question about about the purge valve. It eliminated the check engine light, hard starting , and rough idle problems. Have a great day!
@@Movieman1965 it helps so much! Don’t be sorry at all! I seem to be having the exact same problems...hard start after putting gas in, had some rev issues a while back, stuttering etc. Gonna try out what you said
i had the same exact problem. i changed them out without testing the purge valve first. i reset my codes. however the wrench indicator light is back on. Even though my check engine light isnt back on this is how it started right before i fixed it. The wrench indicator light came on and would go on and off for about a month and even when on wouldnt throw a code but after a month the check engine light came on with it and it was the P1450 code. I changed the purge valve, cleared the check engine light and it has yet to come back on but since the wrench indicator light has come back on im wondering if it even fixed the problem?
This code happened for me a couple days after I did the 100k mile servicing (replacing spark plugs and coolant flush). Could either of these things have anything to do with this code? Thanks in advance!
Same here I change spark plugs and it popped up I believe my purge valve ain broke because it’s not stuck open maybe stuck closed what was your problem?
Could you tell me an estimate on what this problem would probably cost to take care of this problem? It is a P1450 code Definition CodeP1450 indicates that with the engine running the PCM the PMC detected a control fault in the Evap system P1450 Unable to bleed Up Fuel Tank Vacuum PO456 Evaporative Emssion System Leak Detected very small leak
last week i replaced the purge valve in my 2014 MKZ.. ran good up until today. Got a CEL as soon as i got into the car. Ran the code and it was a P1450. I drove to the gas station to get gas and the car wouldn't start. So long story short i has to get the car towed today to the mechanic. Could this happen if someone put something in the gas tank.. These cars don't have a locking gas door. I came out Sunday morning and the gas door was open. just a crack. thanks in advance
You probably got it fixed but that could be from the valve being stuck open and filling the tank pushed extra fumes into the intake and made it too rich to start
The Flat Rate Mechanic I have a 05 Lincoln Navigator with the P1450 code...i change the purge valve,solenoid,FTP sensor,fuel tank cap and still getting the code...canister it’s not plug and the hoses are good...any advise please
I changed the part and put the new one but the engine light is still on, do I have to delete the code with a scanner or can I disconnect the battery? can you help me please
I bought a obd2 to reset the mykey volume limit on the radio and I couldn’t get it do u know how to do it? They said to buy the little adapter and then use the Ford sys scan app
seems fairly easy to access and remove? how much would it cost to fix yourself? or is there more to it then just disconnecting a couple hoses and putting the new valve in?
Thanks for this. Just on the chance someone reads this in time, what are the implications of driving the car a few days like this? Is it safe? Will I be in violation of emissions laws? I have another part on back order from Ford for nearly a month. If this part is a backorder, I'm not sure I can be without the car for a month. OK to drive it? Many thanks.
Had a customer that drove there 2013 escape for over a year before it finally would not start. Some people don’t listen. They finally had me replace the purge valve and it’s good now
Thanks. You're video was informative helpful. I have a question. My 2013 Ford fusion SE just picked up the 1450 code as well as a 144C code right after I got gas. Does the presence of both of these codes eliminate either the purge valve or the vent valve from the puzzle?
There could be a few adverse effects. Basically, if the purge valve is leaking that means the engine is pulling unmetered air which can affect drivability and fuel mileage. And with the purge valve leaking, that means you are pulling a vacuum on the fuel tank and if the vent valve fails for some reason you could clasp your fuel tank. Seen it happen.
@@FlatRateMechanic great video brother! I have the p1450 on a 04 Taurus, I knew there was some kind of vacum in the tank. I thought it might be the gas cap. When I remove the gas cap the car dies. Does that go with what you just taught us? Thanks brother for any info.
@@FlatRateMechanic my vehicle has been stalling (2015 Ford Edge), most of the time there is no code. Just stalls after making a weird "whaaa" noise coming from the fuel tank area...the last time it stalled I got this P1450 error code. I will be taking to a mechanic because I'm not a DYI'er - but can you please tell me if the stalling could be in relation to this error? 10 months ago I did get an evap code pop up, but then it went away shortly after.
@@FlatRateMechanicsmog tech here. Have a 2013 focus. I've tested the valve and it seems fine. The gas tank is deformed and I can watch it suck when using a binditectional scan tool. I T'd in a vacuum gauge and it reads about 3 psi.... However the fuel tank pressure sensors reads -0.31!?!? Am I crazy or is the ftps bad? Or should I just say screw it and replace the purge valve anyway 😂😩. Thank you!!!!
A stuck open purge valve may/may not be noticeable so depends on how bad yours is. May idle high, surge, or stall out at idle; or impact may be negligible. Generally a purge valve you should replace ASAP. A vent valve though you can typically do when it's convenient (unless it's preventing you from filling up the tank).
@@Mrputitintheair29 replaced the gas tank cap boom the code went away..the gas tank needs the pressure so if the gas cap is leaky this will cause excessive sucking by the fuel system.
Your video is terrible! "Stick a hose right there.." Where?! You're moving the camera all over the place and mumbling, talk to us like we don't already know how to fix the problem... because that's why we're here!
Because I’m the car world getting one number wrong can cause a headache. Saying it one by one assures the other party hold you clearly. Like instead of saying “r” people say “R as in Robert”
That’s great, I just got this code can’t wait to ignore it
😂😂😂
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👌🏻
Are you still ignoring it? 😂
@@Dmac2593 the check engine lights gone so o guess it worked 😂
@@tonygood35 lucky for you not mine. It's been a year and it's still there
I just did this on my 2016 Focus ... $50 part saved $140CA in labour !!
Thanks. My son has been having issues with starting when he fills up his tank. I used the same DTC scanner you have and came up with P1450 and P0456. I didn't know where to look for the purge valve but thankfully I clicked on your video. Gonna test it and hopefully that's the problem. Seems common. Thanks again.
You're very welcome. Glad the video was helpful.
That would be a problem with the vent valve or blockage at the charcoal canister. A purge valve won't affect issues with filling the tank.
I had the same problem and codes turns out it was the purge valve
That is my exact code, what ended up being your problem?
Was that the problem with your vehicle? I'm having the same issue.
The heat shield on the line is allegedly made of soy. Rats love it. A $300 repair, and the dealer told me exactly how to prevent it, and even gave me some free advice and components. How is that not subject to a recall?
Please share how to prevent this.
@@mikescalise3913 Cable tie scented clothes dryer sheets around it, and replace them every three months. Seriously.
You need to hook up the vacuum gauge to the engine side of the valve. Not all are designed to hold vacuum both ways, this one included.
Thanks a lot dude this diesel mechanic appreciates you brother.
Thanks man!
So I have this code. Would this make the engine try to die after putting in fuel? At all other times, it's fine. Starts and runs normally. Only after I put in fuel, it tries to die, so I give it a little gas for about 5 seconds, and then it's fine again
Yes, my Ford 2013 Escape SEL died or tried to die every time I put fuel in the tank. Changed the purge valve, and it runs fine after fill ups.
I changed the purge valve and vent valve solenoid and the light still comes back 1450
so in your situation here would be be replacing just that hose or the whole system
So i have a 2011 Ford e350 v8 giving me this code. If I open the gas cap all this pressure is released. I changed the part under the hood with a ford part and i still get this code. Also i haven't been able to fill up without it clicking all the time.
Did u figure out the problem? My e250 does the same
@@snoopy5736 yes. I needed a new canister
"...installed a rubber hose " Where?!
The purge valve isn’t designed to have excessive vacuum pulled on it that way. The EVAP system works with less than 1 psi. Proper way to test the purge valve to pull vacuum on the intake side of it. Just FYI.
@Carrot Top Nick is correct. Gauge was hooked up incorrectly. The intake (or throttle body in this case) is to the left (front). Fuel tank side on the right (firewall).
Its a video makers mistake if anything
When I hooked the hose up and blew, air passed through but when I sucked, the valve would close. Does this mean its working properly?
Thanks for the advice. 2010 ford fusion 3.0 sel. Old purge valve was definitely stuck open.
Did you hear a hissing coming from your gas tank? Cuz I have p01450 and p0456 and there’s a hissing from the gas tank
@@ashtonlilly7047 maybe a leak in ur fuel evap system causing to drop vacuum pressure
I have a 2015 Escape and I get this code Everytime I pump gas
I have a 2014 Ford Escape and had the purge valve replaced at 64,000 miles at a cost of $400. I'm now at 112,000 with the same problem. First it shudders then hard to start and the code reads 1450. It's unfortunate that the Ford Focus with the same engine has this problem and there is a recall on it but not the Escape.
Oh boy 400 bucks they took you for a ride. The purge valve is like 35 bucks
@William Vaughan My car now has a 186,000 miles and I just had to have the purge valve replaced again. This time it was $350.00. The part was ordered from the dealership so it was around $95.00 and the rest was labor. It sucks having had to replace this 3 times.
@@cele8910 This is the 4th time my 2016 ford edge sport has had this code. The last 2 times I had to fight with the dealership to fix the same issue that was within a year of each problem. They keep wanting me to pay for a smoke test for $350 and I have to fight them on this as well. Wish me luck ! I’m taking it in for the 4th time tomorrow! They really need to recall this part.
I have a 2010 milan and about to change it again myself for the third time in 2 yrs. I'm thinking I might also have a different issue if this keeps happening. But it does fix it for about 10 months
I have changed them both and still having p1450, any thoughts? It's the Unable to bleed up fuel tank vacuum p1450
Update* drove it for 2 days and the code went away.
Glad I’m not the only one looking for answers. Having the same issues
Cars have a learn process in their programming. If the ECM no longer detects the fault, it will remove the fault from memory. Just takes a few miles/kilometers to get it to do that.
@@mikeford963 no it was still showing a fault after the change. I just drove with it and after 2 days it went away
@@Hinman_9124 Well, unless you cleared the fault with the code reader, it will. And it can take up to 30km's(Canadian here) for a code to clear.
Better not to clear after fix and drive first. This way the vehicle goes through relearn process and confirms your fix.
Where it's at on a lincoln mkc black label 2016
What's the repair cost on something like this typically?
Does anyone have an idea where I can find the canister purge valve on my 2018 Ford escape sel.. so I can check it
This is very helpful thanks
So I have the 2016 fusion 1.5 L but Im having trouble finding this part for the 1.5L, Im only finding it for the 2.0. Any ideas?? Thanks!
Is in the same location as this video
I tested the purge valve by blowing into it. It was letting air go through! I replaced it! I'll let you know if the code doesn't return.
Did it work out for you?
@@brandonquinn6176 Hello. It worked very well indeed! It turns out it was causing a few problems besides just check engine light. The car would stutter/shudder at 40-45mph before I replaced the purge valve. Also, whenever I filled the gas tank from empty the car would experience a hard starting process where it would crank a long time to start up ( if it was say 1/2 tank with gas it wouldn't happen). After replacing this purge valve all those problems disappeared. Oh, and prior to this the idle was always rough and sometimes the engine would shut off too! No more shudder at 40-45mph, no more hard starting, AND I have not had the check engine light return since that time. It's been about a month now. BTW, I replaced the spark plugs and they really looked chewed up bad! I also replaced the ignition coils. I also replaced the A/C Pressure Switch ($25 part easy to replace) because the A/C had a good charge but it was not engaging the A/C clutch. It solved that problem. I also replaced all the fuel injectors (easy to do also, time consuming but easy, cost for the injector set of 6 was $70). I also cleaned the Mass Air Flow Sensor ( You just spray the brick colored resistor with Mass Air Flow Cleaner Spray, not expensive). I also replaced the Throttle Body ($73, easy to do also). The reason I replaced so many things is because my 2013 Ford XLT Explorer has over 125,000 miles. I didn't buy it new so after checking it appears these parts needed to be replaced to ensure reliability. The only thing I plan to do now is get the Rear Suspension Toe links replaced at the dealer tomorrow because of the safety recall (19S17). They say these can break and cause loss of control which may cause an accident or worse! I did go look under the rear of the car to check if mine were cracked or borderline but I did not see anything wrong. But, after closer inspection I could see that the way these Toe Links were designed it's just a matter of time before I run over enough train crossings to cause a fracture and then maybe I crash into something! I also took close-up picture for my archives. I will be also marking them later today and taking pictures again to make sure that they are actually changed as the recall dictates. Anyway, at this time the vehicle is running very well, acceleration has also improved. I may look at the vacuum lines next for any leaks. Ok, that's pretty much it for now. I hope this helps of you with 2013 Ford Explorers out there. Now that I think of it, the steering power assist rack and pinion had also failed about a year ago (Ford did not have my VIN in the recall, some others did). I had to muscle steer the car for a month before I found a dealer to replace it for $2,000 with warranty. Also, now that I recall further, last summer the A/C condenser had a leak. Replacing it cost another $2,000 because it is hiding behind the dash (labor was the biggest cost). Anyway, I can say since purchasing this car used with 76,000 miles I have spent about $5,000 to get it working properly since then. Have a great day!
@@brandonquinn6176 Sorry I added a lot of extra info. To answer just your question about about the purge valve. It eliminated the check engine light, hard starting , and rough idle problems. Have a great day!
@@Movieman1965 it helps so much! Don’t be sorry at all! I seem to be having the exact same problems...hard start after putting gas in, had some rev issues a while back, stuttering etc. Gonna try out what you said
@@brandonquinn6176 Cool. It's very simple to replace the purge valve. Let me know how it goes?
I'm getting the P1450 code on a 2014 Fusion SE 1.5L, is the part number the same?
Yes, I believe so. But I would definitely cross reference part # before ordering anything
I have the same vehicle as yours and the same issue. Have you ever run across that part number for the purge valve?
What is the part number for 2014 Fusion SE 1.5L ?
What is the part number for 2014 Fusion SE 1.5L ?
@@BLR220 did you ever get the part number
i had the same exact problem. i changed them out without testing the purge valve first. i reset my codes. however the wrench indicator light is back on. Even though my check engine light isnt back on this is how it started right before i fixed it. The wrench indicator light came on and would go on and off for about a month and even when on wouldnt throw a code but after a month the check engine light came on with it and it was the P1450 code. I changed the purge valve, cleared the check engine light and it has yet to come back on but since the wrench indicator light has come back on im wondering if it even fixed the problem?
I’m having the same problem what was it ?
What a wrench indicator?
This code happened for me a couple days after I did the 100k mile servicing (replacing spark plugs and coolant flush). Could either of these things have anything to do with this code? Thanks in advance!
No, this code is related to the EVAP system. Emissions and such.
Same here I change spark plugs and it popped up I believe my purge valve ain broke because it’s not stuck open maybe stuck closed what was your problem?
O with engine running and the valve electrical connector removed if vacuum is present valve is bad
Could you tell me an estimate on what this problem would probably cost to take care of this problem? It is a P1450 code Definition CodeP1450 indicates that with the engine running the PCM the PMC detected a control fault in the Evap system P1450 Unable to bleed Up Fuel Tank Vacuum PO456 Evaporative Emssion System Leak Detected very small leak
Can u drive with this code on until u fix it
Yeah
last week i replaced the purge valve in my 2014 MKZ.. ran good up until today. Got a CEL as soon as i got into the car. Ran the code and it was a P1450. I drove to the gas station to get gas and the car wouldn't start. So long story short i has to get the car towed today to the mechanic. Could this happen if someone put something in the gas tank.. These cars don't have a locking gas door. I came out Sunday morning and the gas door was open. just a crack. thanks in advance
You probably got it fixed but that could be from the valve being stuck open and filling the tank pushed extra fumes into the intake and made it too rich to start
Can the vent valve at the tank cause that same code... how can u test that
Hey man have you ever encountered. p164d-00 on a ford edge? I just bought it and this popped up. Says id block corrupt- not programmed
So do u buy the canister purge valve if you have the p1450 code ?
If its test bad.
The Flat Rate Mechanic I have a 05 Lincoln Navigator with the P1450 code...i change the purge valve,solenoid,FTP sensor,fuel tank cap and still getting the code...canister it’s not plug and the hoses are good...any advise please
@@JoseRodriguez-vw5mo probably the other valve at by the tank. The more expensive one.
@@JoseRodriguez-vw5mo probably a permanent code
I changed the part and put the new one but the engine light is still on, do I have to delete the code with a scanner or can I disconnect the battery? can you help me please
Did your code ever turn off? I replaced mine months ago in my code is also still on. Plus I tested it and it seems like it's working.
I bought a obd2 to reset the mykey volume limit on the radio and I couldn’t get it do u know how to do it? They said to buy the little adapter and then use the Ford sys scan app
i remember clearing it but the backup car key has to be away from the car for some reason?
How much does it normally cost to fix ?
If you were to bring this to a repair shop probably around 300$
seems fairly easy to access and remove? how much would it cost to fix yourself? or is there more to it then just disconnecting a couple hoses and putting the new valve in?
Was quoted $700+ by my local dealer for a valve/hose replacement
@@ChristopherFreezeYT Yeah he said 'repair shop' dealer is going to be more :D
Thanks for this. Just on the chance someone reads this in time, what are the implications of driving the car a few days like this? Is it safe? Will I be in violation of emissions laws? I have another part on back order from Ford for nearly a month. If this part is a backorder, I'm not sure I can be without the car for a month. OK to drive it? Many thanks.
Had a customer that drove there 2013 escape for over a year before it finally would not start. Some people don’t listen. They finally had me replace the purge valve and it’s good now
Thanks. You're video was informative helpful. I have a question. My 2013 Ford fusion SE just picked up the 1450 code as well as a 144C code right after I got gas. Does the presence of both of these codes eliminate either the purge valve or the vent valve from the puzzle?
If not repaired, what are the effects on the vehicle besides the CEL?
There could be a few adverse effects. Basically, if the purge valve is leaking that means the engine is pulling unmetered air which can affect drivability and fuel mileage. And with the purge valve leaking, that means you are pulling a vacuum on the fuel tank and if the vent valve fails for some reason you could clasp your fuel tank. Seen it happen.
@@FlatRateMechanic great video brother! I have the p1450 on a 04 Taurus, I knew there was some kind of vacum in the tank. I thought it might be the gas cap. When I remove the gas cap the car dies. Does that go with what you just taught us? Thanks brother for any info.
@@FlatRateMechanic my vehicle has been stalling (2015 Ford Edge), most of the time there is no code. Just stalls after making a weird "whaaa" noise coming from the fuel tank area...the last time it stalled I got this P1450 error code. I will be taking to a mechanic because I'm not a DYI'er - but can you please tell me if the stalling could be in relation to this error? 10 months ago I did get an evap code pop up, but then it went away shortly after.
@@FlatRateMechanicsmog tech here. Have a 2013 focus. I've tested the valve and it seems fine. The gas tank is deformed and I can watch it suck when using a binditectional scan tool. I T'd in a vacuum gauge and it reads about 3 psi.... However the fuel tank pressure sensors reads -0.31!?!? Am I crazy or is the ftps bad? Or should I just say screw it and replace the purge valve anyway 😂😩. Thank you!!!!
It ended up being my purge valve , I have a 2016
I'm getting po172 po 175 and p1450?? Purge Valve??
Yes, the would be my best guess with out being able to test anything.
Can I still drive my car for like 2 weeks or so till I get it fix?
A stuck open purge valve may/may not be noticeable so depends on how bad yours is. May idle high, surge, or stall out at idle; or impact may be negligible. Generally a purge valve you should replace ASAP. A vent valve though you can typically do when it's convenient (unless it's preventing you from filling up the tank).
Thank you!
hu, is ur fusion FWD or AWD
How do you delete the purge valve?
Follow me. For the answer
First clean the flapper on gas fill.
I hear a sound coming from my gas tank cap
Joey Lathus me too did you figure out what it is?
@@Mrputitintheair29 replaced the gas tank cap boom the code went away..the gas tank needs the pressure so if the gas cap is leaky this will cause excessive sucking by the fuel system.
Yea I do too it’s a weird buzzing sound for me sounds like bees.
@@Mrputitintheair29 It’s air that’s stuck in the tank.
Ford fiesta 2014 eco boost.somthing different.
Your video is terrible! "Stick a hose right there.." Where?! You're moving the camera all over the place and mumbling, talk to us like we don't already know how to fix the problem... because that's why we're here!
you talk to much and don't show much under the hood
WHY do all you guys say P--- one--- four--- five--- zero ____Instead of saying P fourteen fifty ?? is it so hard??
Because I’m the car world getting one number wrong can cause a headache. Saying it one by one assures the other party hold you clearly. Like instead of saying “r” people say “R as in Robert”
You talk to much. I listen 4 min of blah blah to see the 10 sec part I was looking for. Unfortunately that was at the end