For ANYONE replacing the whole thing. the connector that people always have problems with is down by the alternator. The solution is to loosen the hose clamps above and below the piece that the connector is attached to and simply rotate it out to the front of the engine. then you can get to it without tearing your hands to shreads or trying to jab at it with picks and screwdrivers.
Just did this on mine and spent around an hour messing with that bottom connector. Disconnecting the hose would have probably made it a little easier. Was able to get it with picks and screwdrivers lol
Thank you for showing us how to take out those connectors. I was having a hard time with this. I was afraid to break them. You showed me how to do it. Thank you again.
Thank you for a great video. I wish that I had seen it before I attempted to remove the hose with the yellow clip that goes to the large rubber air tube. I was attempting to remove that air tube to give better access to the solenoid valve which is the only part that I was changing, (I have big hands). But, when I attempted to remove the yellow clip, I did it incorrectly and I broke the clip. I was willing to take a chance on just changing the solenoid purge valve because the part cost was only about $15.00 on Amazon, and ninety-nine percent of the time, it's the solenoid valve that is bad, and in my case, it fixed the problem. But now, I'm sort of in a pile of dung because that clip is not replaceable, (unless of course someone knows of a way to repair/replace it). It's not a problem right now because the hose is still securely attached to the air tube since the locking part of the clip is still in the connector so the hose cannot be removed. But, if and when the day ever comes that I have to remove that hose, I suspect that my only option will be to destroy the entire connector, remove the hose, and change the entire tube, (if that day comes I'll buy a FANLIDE Vapor Canister Purge Valve F2GZ-9D289-A on Amazon for $70.00 and use that assembly, which is a far cry better than the $176.00 that Ford wants for the same assembly.
Folks, if you haven't taken yours apart yet and are planning to tackle this yourself, save your hands, knuckles, wrists, energy, curse words, and frustration. Do this instead - Clip the zip ties holding the 3 hoses together. Undo the white pinch connector hose from the top of the intake and underneath, and also the purge valve over on the driver's side under the intake hose. LEAVE the hose with the YELLOW CONNECTOR ALONE. Undo the zip ties on the new standard piece, and use the hoses there, other than the one with the yellow connectors. After you have the other new hoses set into place and purge valve in place, just zip tie them back together like they were from the factory and you're set. I'm 2 days into a 15 minute job, so don't be like me.
Awesome video 👏 It's always good to get the science behind repair, thanks again. Lemme ask a quick question, could you have just changed the Vapor Canister Purge Valve only, instead of the whole assembly
Just had this code come on today with my 2017 Ford Fusion after a free Diagnostic at Advanced Auto. How much can it possible cause to fix this issue cause sounds like it's not just one thing but several...
Question i changed the canister purge valve and the canister the one is next to fuel tank but keep saying Unable to Bleed Up Fuel Tank Vacuum and when i go to put gas the fuel tank sounds boom and when i try to start it is hard
Hey I have the 2015 ford edge 2.0 but my valve has 2 hoses and just the solenoid and I can’t find it anywhere I’m very confused the thing has 2 hoses and on the solenoid not the 3 hoses and the solenoid any advice thanks!
For ANYONE replacing the whole thing. the connector that people always have problems with is down by the alternator. The solution is to loosen the hose clamps above and below the piece that the connector is attached to and simply rotate it out to the front of the engine. then you can get to it without tearing your hands to shreads
Nice explanations…. Anyone have any other idea about the P1450 fail? Since I replace it on my 2017 ford escape and the issue persists…. Every time I fill my tank, I have to wait couple minutes to start the engine
Whomever invented the upside down yellow connector needs their engineering degree pulled. Way to over complicate a relative easy fix. 2 hours into a 15 minute job!
For ANYONE replacing the whole thing. the connector that people always have problems with is down by the alternator. The solution is to loosen the hose clamps above and below the piece that the connector is attached to and simply rotate it out to the front of the engine. then you can get to it without tearing your hands to shreads or trying to jab at it with picks and screwdrivers.
Just did this on mine and spent around an hour messing with that bottom connector. Disconnecting the hose would have probably made it a little easier. Was able to get it with picks and screwdrivers lol
God damn. What a well explained, holistic video. Thank you!!
Thanks!
Thanks for recording this very detailed video. You deserve many thumbs up for this excellent video.
@@kennydoolarchan9515 Thanks! Glad this video was helpful 🙂
Thank you for showing us how to take out those connectors. I was having a hard time with this. I was afraid to break them. You showed me how to do it. Thank you again.
Excellent video! Really great explanation to how to determine.
Thank you for a great video. I wish that I had seen it before I attempted to remove the hose with the yellow clip that goes to the large rubber air tube. I was attempting to remove that air tube to give better access to the solenoid valve which is the only part that I was changing, (I have big hands). But, when I attempted to remove the yellow clip, I did it incorrectly and I broke the clip. I was willing to take a chance on just changing the solenoid purge valve because the part cost was only about $15.00 on Amazon, and ninety-nine percent of the time, it's the solenoid valve that is bad, and in my case, it fixed the problem. But now, I'm sort of in a pile of dung because that clip is not replaceable, (unless of course someone knows of a way to repair/replace it). It's not a problem right now because the hose is still securely attached to the air tube since the locking part of the clip is still in the connector so the hose cannot be removed. But, if and when the day ever comes that I have to remove that hose, I suspect that my only option will be to destroy the entire connector, remove the hose, and change the entire tube, (if that day comes I'll buy a FANLIDE Vapor Canister Purge Valve F2GZ-9D289-A on Amazon for $70.00 and use that assembly, which is a far cry better than the $176.00 that Ford wants for the same assembly.
Outstanding explanation. Thank You.
Thanks! Glad this was helpful 🙂
Great video and explanation on how the system works.
Folks, if you haven't taken yours apart yet and are planning to tackle this yourself, save your hands, knuckles, wrists, energy, curse words, and frustration. Do this instead - Clip the zip ties holding the 3 hoses together. Undo the white pinch connector hose from the top of the intake and underneath, and also the purge valve over on the driver's side under the intake hose. LEAVE the hose with the YELLOW CONNECTOR ALONE. Undo the zip ties on the new standard piece, and use the hoses there, other than the one with the yellow connectors. After you have the other new hoses set into place and purge valve in place, just zip tie them back together like they were from the factory and you're set. I'm 2 days into a 15 minute job, so don't be like me.
Hey Adrian! Thanks for the tip 👍
Awesome video 👏
It's always good to get the science behind repair, thanks again.
Lemme ask a quick question, could you have just changed the Vapor Canister Purge Valve only, instead of the whole assembly
From what I’ve seen, the hoses are all permanently connected.
Yes, you can, but you'll have to replace the hose that you'll need to cut for the repair.
Thank u 4 this..couldn’t have been explained any better..2thumbs up for sure 👍🏽 👍🏽
best ever explained=two thumbs up,thanks
Thanks for this video explained everything and easy to understand thank you!
Glad this was helpful 👍
The bottom yellow connector was a pain in the rear however after I cut it with a pex cutter I able to rotate for easy access and it came out
Nice tip! 👍
Awesome explanation.... 2020 MKZ gives P0456 code. but same symptoms... thanks
@@FrogiAli You're welcome 👍
My vehicle has that symptom after my fill up it is flooded. Thank you very much.
Thanks
Just had this code come on today with my 2017 Ford Fusion after a free Diagnostic at Advanced Auto. How much can it possible cause to fix this issue cause sounds like it's not just one thing but several...
Question i changed the canister purge valve and the canister the one is next to fuel tank but keep saying Unable to Bleed Up Fuel Tank Vacuum and when i go to put gas the fuel tank sounds boom and when i try to start it is hard
Yes… I have same issue after replaced…. It doesn’t work… Have you find a different solution?
@@RodrigoJesus-u1c Same here.😂
@@chrisaesculus5520did you guys figure it out?
Hey I have the 2015 ford edge 2.0 but my valve has 2 hoses and just the solenoid and I can’t find it anywhere I’m very confused the thing has 2 hoses and on the solenoid not the 3 hoses and the solenoid any advice thanks!
You have to look for a video of that specific car
Lol, I did this replacement literally a week before you posted this, real knucklebuster. Btw what scanner are you using there?
I sure would like to know too what scanner that is…
How did you reach the connector way down under the engine? I'm having a really hard time getting my hand around the radiator hoses
For ANYONE replacing the whole thing. the connector that people always have problems with is down by the alternator. The solution is to loosen the hose clamps above and below the piece that the connector is attached to and simply rotate it out to the front of the engine. then you can get to it without tearing your hands to shreads
I'd tell you
But it's been 8 months already😂
You're probably good by now
@@rapinncapin123how tho
Nice explanations…. Anyone have any other idea about the P1450 fail? Since I replace it on my 2017 ford escape and the issue persists…. Every time I fill my tank, I have to wait couple minutes to start the engine
Hey did you figured it out
So would this be the fix for mine possibly code 1450 and problem is hard time starting after getting fuel
The code along with your symptoms makes it a big possibility this is your issue.
Wi this work for a ford escape?
@@ATAHUALPA867 Yes, it should be very similar 👍
what is the Part number for the whole assembly?
I'm not sure. I got it from the local parts store.
How much would this repair cost at the dealer?
I have a same problem and I gave a call the ford dealer! The said around $300 …
Bro when are you located? Or what’s your service area?
what the name of the part?
Purge solenoid.
✅✅✅✅✅👍👍👍👍🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
I don't know how to interpret life data lol
I feel you brother!
all this Oppenheimer bro. its already known ford made that part from loose trash. just show us how to change it
Whomever invented the upside down yellow connector needs their engineering degree pulled. Way to over complicate a relative easy fix. 2 hours into a 15 minute job!