This was a great look into forge world models, I've always wanted to get one from there more of one of their character models but still this was incredibly helpful. Great video as always Andy :)
Thanks so much! The character models are slightly different to this, I think I covered them in one of my primarch videos though! If you ever have questions on specific models just let me know!
Really helpful Andy I have a stormhammer to build a present from Santa to me…… 😂 not as stressed about it now especially the misaligned pieces bravo mate
Great video thanks for sharing your thoughts and tips … I have used resin safe paint stripper for stubborn mould release agent in the past but on the whole dish soap and hot water ( hands safe) tends to be for the win also helps with dry fitting enjoy the Vulcan dakka 👍🍻
Superglue and pinning for a thunder hawk. Superglue will give your a surprising strong hold as the material is porus so seeps down and holds very tight.
That’s a great idea! In the meantime, I have a video on building and posing a contemptor dreadnought that might help a bit? If you have any specific questions let me know!
Thanks but I bought 1 resin kit from Forgeworld and that was enough for me, never again as not one bit fitted properly and I used all the tricks you have shown, plus loads of filler to make it half decent. Thankfully it was a Orc Kit so looked patchy in places.
i'll never understand why forgeworld or their resin models are still a thing. the details are ten times worse compared to plastic models; the parts are crooked and bent, and a lot more fragile than plastic; the clean-up stage is way more annoying and you never end up with a totally clean model. i made the mistake of buying a couple of resin models - the tau drone sniper and tau ethereal. never again.
It’s a purely economic thing. Molds for resin models are far less expensive to make than the steel molds used for plastic; GW have to know they will sell a certain very large amount of any given plastic model to actually make any money once the cost of tooling is taken into account. The resin molding process also lets them do certain kinds of detail more easily without requiring multiple parts (see the shoulder pads with bonding studs on plastic Mk VI marines, which have to be a two-part assembly with a seam in plastic).
Further to this, the models you mention are finecast, not forgeworld resin! Very different and with forgeworld new mix, the detail is much crisper and it even seems to have less release agent.
Best FW tip: Wait until GW releases them in plastic. * glares at FW Sicarans * But seriously, great video. A soak in Diet Coke (make sure it's DIET) is great for stripping the mold release with hardly any scrubbing.
@@MediocreHobbies The chemicals in Diet Coke are not just bad for you, they're bad for other chemicals. People have used it as a weak oven cleaner too. I learned this from a very experienced hobbyist at my GW who builds FW models as a commission including many Titans.
As a former resin caster, just wanted to add a safety recommendation to absolutely never use boiling water with resin. I wouldn't want people watching this to scald themselves. Lukewarm water is absolutely fine for purpose and not dangerous. The science behind this is that the resin always solidifies perfectly in the mould. The chemical reaction can be understood in a similar fashion to water retaining shape by memory. However, if the part is not laid flat then it could warp before going to pick and pack, or it could warp via heat and pressure in transit. In essence the resin becomes like a solid object being bent out of shape, such as sheet metal with a dent in it. The advantage of resin is that gentle heating with warm water, and laying the piece flat to mimic the moulding process, is usually sufficient enough to encourage the shape to reform.
I’m sure people can manage some hot water. Forgeworld modles are designed for ages 15 and up. And some of the larger parts won’t Bend back into place with warm water they need boiling. I’ve never had any issues doing it this way.
For the money you pay for FW models they really should prep them at least to the point of being cut and cleaned off of the big parts. Just my opinon though
Putting FW kits together is not the hardest part... The hardest part is the absolutely abysmal quality some of the kits, warping and mold lines all over, bubbles galore and just so bad quality all over
This video couldn't of come at a better time I just got my 1st forge world model, a Exo driller for my squats gang very useful
Oh awesome, he’s a great model! Hope you enjoy painting it too!
I use those extra bits that you cut off in the beginnng (don't know the name) as jersey barriers. Spray grey, drybrush lighter grey, done.
Oh that’s a great idea! Really good way to use them, love it!
Awesome video. I have several resin proxy tanks so found this super useful
That’s great to hear, glad it was helpful 🙌
Quality tutorial Andy!
Thanks so much! 🙌
This was a great look into forge world models, I've always wanted to get one from there more of one of their character models but still this was incredibly helpful.
Great video as always Andy :)
Thanks so much! The character models are slightly different to this, I think I covered them in one of my primarch videos though! If you ever have questions on specific models just let me know!
We need to see it being painted up!!
Yes sir.
Fantastic Guide.
Glad it was helpful!
1 tip about the dust is if you wet your tools in a bit of water then the dust will just stick to them.
Good idea.
Really helpful Andy I have a stormhammer to build a present from Santa to me…… 😂 not as stressed about it now especially the misaligned pieces bravo mate
Glad it helped.
Buddy that Video was super handy! Thank you!
Aw glad to hear, thanks for letting me know!
Fabulous stuff boss! I’ve loads of forgeworld stuff to build
Oh awesome, good luck with it! If you have any questions just let me know and we’ll get through the hard parts together 😄
really helpful video, gonna build a moirax knight soon so hopefully this applies
For sure pal. Glad it helps.
"I like to receive Forge World for Christmas" - hey, wouldn't we all but most of us have to make do with socks!!!!!!
Hey man socks are a vital part of the hobby too, gotta keep those feet warm during painting sessions 😂
Really helpful
That’s great to hear, appreciate the comment!
Great video thanks for sharing your thoughts and tips … I have used resin safe paint stripper for stubborn mould release agent in the past but on the whole dish soap and hot water ( hands safe) tends to be for the win also helps with dry fitting enjoy the Vulcan dakka 👍🍻
Hahah cheers pal I plan on.
What was the superglue you were using because that stuff went off really fast
Agree. Would love to know what super glue this is.
It’s. The cheapest one from deal a kind of cheap shop here in Ireland.
Thanks for this! I just got a Earth Shaker carrier and the barrel is very bent.
Ah man, that's frustrating, hope this helps!
Would a thunderhawk be large enough that I should start using epoxy or would superglue still be strong enough?
Superglue and pinning for a thunder hawk. Superglue will give your a surprising strong hold as the material is porus so seeps down and holds very tight.
How about a video on actually pinning large models? I’m building a kytan but have been putting it of because I’m unsure how to pin the legs!
That’s a great idea! In the meantime, I have a video on building and posing a contemptor dreadnought that might help a bit? If you have any specific questions let me know!
Nifty video. Lol I'll never have to worry about forgeworld models though. I have enough trouble getting regular armies 😀
HahahHa me to lol
Thanks but I bought 1 resin kit from Forgeworld and that was enough for me, never again as not one bit fitted properly and I used all the tricks you have shown, plus loads of filler to make it half decent. Thankfully it was a Orc Kit so looked patchy in places.
Of you have the will power to stay away from them then yes that’s probably the best choice lol
Would you still need to wash the resin even for something small such as the MKVI helmets??
No not at all. Unless if felt a little slippery. But I haven’t needed to wash resin in a long time.
@MediocreHobbies Ahh, okay, thanks for the reply.
I know I'm late here, but thank you so much for this, essential guide
Never too late, glad you liked it!
Man glad forge world release comes off with soap some resin or polymer I’ve come across needed rubbing alcohol too be sure .
Yep I’d go crazy I’ve I had to use anything other then water.
i'll never understand why forgeworld or their resin models are still a thing. the details are ten times worse compared to plastic models; the parts are crooked and bent, and a lot more fragile than plastic; the clean-up stage is way more annoying and you never end up with a totally clean model. i made the mistake of buying a couple of resin models - the tau drone sniper and tau ethereal. never again.
It’s a purely economic thing. Molds for resin models are far less expensive to make than the steel molds used for plastic; GW have to know they will sell a certain very large amount of any given plastic model to actually make any money once the cost of tooling is taken into account. The resin molding process also lets them do certain kinds of detail more easily without requiring multiple parts (see the shoulder pads with bonding studs on plastic Mk VI marines, which have to be a two-part assembly with a seam in plastic).
What merz said he nailed it.
Further to this, the models you mention are finecast, not forgeworld resin! Very different and with forgeworld new mix, the detail is much crisper and it even seems to have less release agent.
I have an issue. I have washed my forgeworld models like 3-4 times now and the primer still just scratches right off of the model.
What do you mean by scratches right off? Are you trying to scratch it off to test it?
I was told that we had to wear eye wear and gloves and a mask when cleaning forgeworld products is that not true?
No that’s not true at all pal
Best FW tip: Wait until GW releases them in plastic. * glares at FW Sicarans *
But seriously, great video. A soak in Diet Coke (make sure it's DIET) is great for stripping the mold release with hardly any scrubbing.
That seams like a crazy idea lol.
@@MediocreHobbies The chemicals in Diet Coke are not just bad for you, they're bad for other chemicals. People have used it as a weak oven cleaner too.
I learned this from a very experienced hobbyist at my GW who builds FW models as a commission including many Titans.
Really hoping there is a high detail painting video coming for this kit too 😁
There is indeed.
As a former resin caster, just wanted to add a safety recommendation to absolutely never use boiling water with resin. I wouldn't want people watching this to scald themselves. Lukewarm water is absolutely fine for purpose and not dangerous.
The science behind this is that the resin always solidifies perfectly in the mould. The chemical reaction can be understood in a similar fashion to water retaining shape by memory. However, if the part is not laid flat then it could warp before going to pick and pack, or it could warp via heat and pressure in transit. In essence the resin becomes like a solid object being bent out of shape, such as sheet metal with a dent in it. The advantage of resin is that gentle heating with warm water, and laying the piece flat to mimic the moulding process, is usually sufficient enough to encourage the shape to reform.
I’m sure people can manage some hot water. Forgeworld modles are designed for ages 15 and up. And some of the larger parts won’t Bend back into place with warm water they need boiling. I’ve never had any issues doing it this way.
What kind of mask do you use?
amzn.to/3wDuhOj
@@MediocreHobbies wow! Fast reply thank you!
@@JSsm987 HahahHa no worries pal.
thx bro
No problem
For the money you pay for FW models they really should prep them at least to the point of being cut and cleaned off of the big parts. Just my opinon though
And I agree with your opinion 100%
Putting FW kits together is not the hardest part... The hardest part is the absolutely abysmal quality some of the kits, warping and mold lines all over, bubbles galore and just so bad quality all over
The “quality” of the kits for the price they sell them at is what makes it so annoying. Premium price should be premium quality.
I agree with both you guys 100%
Great tips. What a pain.
You get used to it and they do feel like a special piece when it’s finally painted, certainly wouldn’t to do too much though!