Marco,really hope you will make a video showing all your studio stuff and especially a special inside "model resin kit Tour " with all your models painted in big scale !👍 I worked with milli-yellow grey for years and i discover this new technique with diluted with alcool ,you are a genius Marco !Thanks!😊😊
Thanks 😊!!! Sadly I left everything in Italy when I moved to Ireland, BUT 'll make for sure a video when I'll go seeing my parents to show my full nerd/otaku collection 😁😍😁
I know this is an older video but holy heck it came in handy today! Needed a good way to fill the gaps on my first resin model kit and I didn't know about milliput and iso.
Started watching you a week ago and i have now watched every video 3 times, you are really sparking the old uni art student in me. Your passion is inspiring. Thank you so much!
Loved the tip on making “milli-butter” for easier to control fine patching! Will also need to find some butyl for mini mounting. Awesome vid on model prep!
You are easily the most creative painter I have come across on youtube. I'm not referring to just this model but across all of your video's. Absolutely amazing work. You have a true natural talent that can only be obtained over years of practice.
Dear Marco, a brilliant tutorial! This will help me greatly as I am about to start my first resin kit! Thank you, you are a life saver! Kind Regards Johnny
Man, I was coming to tell you how hyped I'm for the next video, but I also have to thank you for the milliput one. That is gonna save MY LIFE with the Underworld bands I have to paint. Some of the models have huge gaps, even for small goblins. You have such neat tricks in every video... is amazing how much I learn Marco, really. So yeah, thanks xD
😍😁😍😁😍 Awesome!!! Thank you sooo much!!! For Shadespire try also this one (it's a gunpla trick): when you build a pushfit cut diagonally in half the female part of the junction with the nippers. The two parts will fit perfectly without gaps😉
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM I'm gonna definitely try this. Thank you so much!!! When I thought I had learned all I could possibly learn from this video... Second trick of the night xD
Thanks for all the great content Marco. Just wanted to say an extra special thanks for the superglue tip (toothpick and parchment). Also going to be ordering some milliput asap.
What a great video! So many ideas I have now. And thank you for doing larger scale models. That's majority of what I work on. Your amazing! Thank you! ❤️
splendido! Forse ripeto i concetti espressi dai precedenti commentatori, ma apprendere tanti interessanti metodi in un solo video è apprezzatissimo. Attendo i seguenti. Buon lavoro.
Great explanation about resin kits. I would like ask you if there is a chance to see a video related to your approach to making and painting an anime garage kits, like toe one you made mention on 8:08 minute.
Very cool . I have the ,Dahak, the Unbreakable model from Beyond miniatures half built on my desk. Its pretty good for gaps but i hate using greenstuff . Love the milliput trick.
I love Proxxon tools! They are made precisely for modelling and our kind of works, they operate well at low speed and power (particularly important working with plastic) and they can easily work with generic/other brand's bits
It works! Milliput is water soluble, so you can use also just water but alcohol creates a better, smoother paste that drys faster. Thinner is basically diluted iso so it works but a little lower its full potential 😉
Holy crap. Your milli-butter technique just changed my life! Thank you! BTW...do you have a link for where you got that cool adjustable handle that the mini is mounted on? Love your vids! Keep them coming!
😁😊 Super happy to hear that the trick has been useful!!! Thanks a million to you 😊 The handle is a product of Dino Pivato and in the description there's a link to his FB page; he is an artisan and sells directly plinths, boxes and different handles 😊
Ti scriverò in italiano......io di solito non lascio mai commenti e mi limito solo a guardare ma penso veramente che il tuo canale dia degli importantissimi contributi al nostro hobby per questo ti ringrazio! sono anni che dipingo per me...per amici e per terzi...ma ho trovato veramente una ricchissima fonte di ispirazione in quello che fai! Veramente bravo! Mi piacerebbe lasciarti il link della mia pagina instagram in modo da avere qualche tuo consiglio...ma ovviamente non trovo giusto farlo qui. ti scriverò magari in pvt passando dalla tua pagina web. Grazie ancora
Grazie mille a te!!! Davvero davvero davvero di cuore!!! Non hai idea di quanta soddisfazione mi dia il tuo commento :). E' un piacerone, mandami il link e scrivimi pure dove ti sta più comodo, FB, Instagram, mail... ci sono tutti i link in cima alla pagina ;)
OK great video, thank you! And next question is, for resin builds, can I do a similar thin-and-paint with Tamiya basic type putty? (Or maybe I should just throw it out and get Milli?)
Thanks! You can use that kind of putties mixed with plastic glue to make them more fluid and easy to spread with the brush but the finish is a bit rougher than the one you can obtain from Milliput (to the point that I use it to add fine rough textures to flat panels! Check my video on the Grimdark Imperial Fist 😉)
Yippee Friday has come early :) Thanks Marco..... .....Is it Friday Nov 1st yet? Need another 'fix' of Marco :( Another great video full of tips, wet sanding as a prime example of never putting 2 and 2 together! Butyl; never heard of the stuff by name so will go digging to see if I can get any. Does it have a 'shelf life' ie looses its elasticity and stickyness after X days/weeks/months etc??? Have a great weekend bro
Thank you sooo much man! 😍 Butyl lives almost forever; it's used to seal roofs and car parts adapting its volume to temperature changes so a long life it's one of its primary functions 😉
Thanks a million!!! I use Isopropyl alcohol. You can find it in any pharmacy or with better prices online (Amazon, eBay, pharmaceutical supplies websites...). You can use also methilated alcohol from hardware stores or the simple pink alcohol from the supermarket (but Isopropanol is more efficient and the pink one doesn't exist in Ireland 😅)
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM (sorry, me again with essentially the same question) but it's just the alcohol reacting, right? the [-OH] appendix in the chemical formula. so it doesn't really matter what (concentrated) alcohol you use. ethanol/spirit, the one you have as part of camping supplies, would work as well, right? or am i missing something?
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM si hai ragione voglio prenderlo per questo, i bassi giri sono ottimi per la plastica, e io la uso molto. Vediamo cosa trovo qui nel Pacific North West!
sapresti suggerirmi come rimodellare delle ali storte di un devilman in resina?mi è arrivato il modello con le ali che non combaciano con la shiena.... ti ringrazio
Sto lavorando a un problema simile su un resin kit! Dipende un po' da come si incastrano meccanicamente le parti e di quanto non combaciano; se è un problema di resina in eccesso basta togliere pian piano materiale raffinando la zona di contatto, unire tutto con dei perni solidi e lavorare di stucchi per fare sparire la giunzione. Se è un problema di mancanze bisogna per forza scolpire il volume mancante dopo aver pernato
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM no purtroppo nulla di tutto ciò...le ali che vanno sui "binari" scavati sulla schiena (parliamo di un devilman)sono più arcuati,quindi non combaciano😭 Con delle foto si capirebbe meglio. Grazie per ora,magari potrei provare riscaldandoli con acqua calda?🤔
@@giuseppecaforio1538 ah bhè questa situazione in realtà potrebbe essere ancora più facile da risolvere. Su quel tipo di resina acqua quasi bollente o asciugacapelli fanno miracoli per aggiustare l'angolo o la curvatura dei pezzi!
Hi! No it's definitely tooooo strong, it will remove the paint and probably a piece of the model 😱 but you can use silly putty for this job (or any other "brain" putty, "stress" putty... from toy stores) and that's really amazing!
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM I'm GMT +8 so it came out for me Friday morning at work which is awesome, downside would be if the next video is back at normal time so Saturday my world....a WHOLE 8 days without Marco....that thought makes me a sad panda :)
Amazing video with plenty helpful stuff! One small question if i may: usually after you pin (anything) do you superglue the Pins inside and outside? Or what is the procedure? I mean the whole point is securing the pins completely with superglue or just offer some support with them (like magnets) and that is it?
Hey, I want to get into the big scale models like these. But i'd rather not f* them up cause I am a complete beginner in the miniature painting hobby. For the time being am just collecting stuff for "FUTURE". Could you suggest relatively cheap stuff I could train on, before targetting that sweet stuff?
The price point of this kind of models is more or less the same everywhere... 3D printing is probably the "cheapest" way to get a large number of big expendable figures. But if you are a beginner standard miniatures are still the best way to train your skills and wargaming monster and big heroes are almost 54/75mm models so perfect to do your first experiments 😉
Awesome video! lot´s of new things for me in this one. Good timing as i am painting a 1/10 Bust now. "Abyssal from scale75" Are you going to use any Kimera paints on this Kimera model?
Ciao Marco, ma non sarebbe stato meglio dare la prima passata di primer con il modello smontato? Hello Marco, but wouldn't it have been better to give the first primer pass with the model disassembled?
Decisamente no; non ci sono veri e propri punti nascosti sul modello e primerando prima vai a toccare le superfici di incollaggio che é meglio tenere senza vernice e devi fare buchi e mettere perni per reggere i pezzi perdendo un sacco di tempo. Definitely not; there aren't real hidden spots on the model and priming first you mess with gluing surfaces and you have to drill and pin everything to make painting support losing a lot of extra time!
Again, you've shown us something that no one else does, in this case how you attach the models so they don't slip and how they're kept in place on wires (drill a hole and superglue the wire I presume). If this were the magic circle you'd have been kicked out by now!
"Yes Forgeworld, we are talking about you" :) :) :) Another great video - and weirdly, I was only today looking at this model (which I have): www.greebo-games.com/25989-black-hydra.html ...and this picture: www.belloflostsouls.net/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/rise_of_tiamat.jpg ...which is how I'm planning to paint it. And then here today, you start a series on exactly the kind of project I'm looking at. Amazing!
I never thought of mixing milliput with isopropyl alcohol. What a brilliant tip. Thank you so much for this!
Milli-butter! Pure genius! You just made that step 109 times easier. Yes, 109!
😁😍😁😍😁
Marco,really hope you will make a video showing all your studio stuff and especially a special inside "model resin kit Tour " with all your models painted in big scale !👍
I worked with milli-yellow grey for years and i discover this new technique with diluted with alcool ,you are a genius Marco !Thanks!😊😊
Thanks 😊!!! Sadly I left everything in Italy when I moved to Ireland, BUT 'll make for sure a video when I'll go seeing my parents to show my full nerd/otaku collection 😁😍😁
I know this is an older video but holy heck it came in handy today! Needed a good way to fill the gaps on my first resin model kit and I didn't know about milliput and iso.
😊😁😊
So many helpful tips!
My god. I thought I knew enough about prepping models. I have learned a lot of tricks here. Thanks a bunch!!!
😁😊😁
I may be late to the party, but this video was super informative and inspiring! Thank you Marco!
😁 Thanks a million to you man!
oh man thank you for sharing that trick for marking where to drill your holes when pinning!
😊 It's a pleasure! And thanks to you 😉!
Started watching you a week ago and i have now watched every video 3 times, you are really sparking the old uni art student in me. Your passion is inspiring. Thank you so much!
Thank you sooooo much buddy 😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍!!!
Great video, Man. I will be your patron.
Thanks 😍😍😍!!! And thanks a million for the support 😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😘!!!
Great video, it's always nice to pick up more tips and tricks from great craftsmen.
Master!!! every video I learn a ton of stufff!!!!
😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁 So happy!!!
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM thanks!!!
That Millibutter idea seems fantastic. Will definitely have to try it out. Thanks.
😁😁😁
Between the milli-gravy and butyl, I learned two whole entirely new things today. 🤤
😁😁😁 Awesome 😁😁😁
Loved the tip on making “milli-butter” for easier to control fine patching! Will also need to find some butyl for mini mounting. Awesome vid on model prep!
Every goddamn video is so packed with helpful information, it's honestly astounding. Thank you so much!
😍😍😍Thanks buddy 😉😊😁
You are easily the most creative painter I have come across on youtube. I'm not referring to just this model but across all of your video's. Absolutely amazing work. You have a true natural talent that can only be obtained over years of practice.
I really wish I had this kind of patience in my figure prep haha. I'm inspired now!
😁😍😁
My GOODDD!!! Using a Davinci kolinsky brush with millibutter!!! :) Looking forward to see how you paint that nasty guy!
😉 it was an old one that I use only for this job 😉 Thanks man!
Dear Marco, a brilliant tutorial! This will help me greatly as I am about to start my first resin kit! Thank you, you are a life saver! Kind Regards Johnny
😊😁😊 Awesome timing!!! Thanks to you buddy 😉!
I learn something new with every video :D
😍😍😍
I stumbled across your channel recently and love the way you explain things- the millibutter is amazing. Need to get me some Isopropyl Alcohol now..
Awesome information 👏 Helped me a great deal!
Thanks Marco! Look forward to the painting. Kimera models are radical!
😍
Really like the video.. love the tip about the tooth pick for the super glue... something new every week. Got to try the miliputty too 😉
😉😉😉 Thanks 😉😉😉!!!
Milli-butter was genius. Looking forward to see how this turns out.
😁😊😁 Thanks buddy!!!
I’m going to steal the millibutter term never thought of doing it in a small cup. Also really like the miniature holder u made great ideas.
Someone here in the comments proposed the name Millibutter to make the technique more iconic and I love it 😍! It became immediately official!
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Hi Marco, would this work with greenstuff as well? greenbutter sounds great... but is it equal in usage to milibutter?😊
Man, I was coming to tell you how hyped I'm for the next video, but I also have to thank you for the milliput one. That is gonna save MY LIFE with the Underworld bands I have to paint. Some of the models have huge gaps, even for small goblins.
You have such neat tricks in every video... is amazing how much I learn Marco, really. So yeah, thanks xD
😍😁😍😁😍 Awesome!!! Thank you sooo much!!!
For Shadespire try also this one (it's a gunpla trick): when you build a pushfit cut diagonally in half the female part of the junction with the nippers. The two parts will fit perfectly without gaps😉
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM I'm gonna definitely try this. Thank you so much!!! When I thought I had learned all I could possibly learn from this video... Second trick of the night xD
@@MagatsuNimura 😉😉😉 It's a pleasure 😊
Thanks for all the great content Marco. Just wanted to say an extra special thanks for the superglue tip (toothpick and parchment). Also going to be ordering some milliput asap.
Thanks a million to you!!! I love when my tricks improve your own workflow 😁
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM have also just ordered some Mr hobby mixing trays and some milliput so I too can make millibutter :)
Awesome video, full of information, as usual! Thanks!
Thanks man!!! 😍
This looks great so far. I am really looking forward to seeing the rest of the series.
😍😁😍😁
Awesome timing. One of my next projects will be a 70mm miniature.
😁😁😁 I love when it happens!
What a great video! So many ideas I have now. And thank you for doing larger scale models. That's majority of what I work on. Your amazing! Thank you! ❤️
😍 Thanks to you!!! After Monte San Savino I plan to do something bigger; a proper large resin kit because it's too much time since my last one 😁
Quality channel and great content thanks for sharing
Thank you sooooo much!!! 😍😍😍
Amazing as always! My boy and I always learn a tonne from your videos. Cheers
Thanks a million 😍😍😍 really from the heart, I can't tell how is satisfying to know that the videos are useful 😊😊😊
splendido! Forse ripeto i concetti espressi dai precedenti commentatori, ma apprendere tanti interessanti metodi in un solo video è apprezzatissimo. Attendo i seguenti. Buon lavoro.
😁😁😁 è sempre un piacere vai tranquillo! Grazie mille 😊
great tip with the Butyl, never thought of using that before
😉😊😉
Great explanation about resin kits. I would like ask you if there is a chance to see a video related to your approach to making and painting an anime garage kits, like toe one you made mention on 8:08 minute.
Wow! Thanks for the Butyl tip! I’ve been looking for a stickier substance to hold my bombs up! :D
There's nothing worse than a bomb that doesn't stay where you need 😂😂😂
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Haha I'd go for RD X rather than Trinitrotoluene.
There's nothing worse than rogue C-4.
The Butyl tip is one I will be adopting in the future .
@@Photoshop3000 😁😁😁
Very cool . I have the ,Dahak, the Unbreakable model from Beyond miniatures half built on my desk. Its pretty good for gaps but i hate using greenstuff . Love the milliput trick.
Thanks!!! Yeah Greenstuff is quite difficult to use and not very versatile for this kind of small and precise works
You are the fuck*** boss Marco, your knowledge is amazing!
😁😊😁😊😘😘😘
Another awesome video, thank you! Would love to see you paint the great 45 - 120mm HIPS minis for the game Oathsworn, running on kickstarter now :)
I'll check it out immediately, it sounds very interesting...
Cool models!!!!!
Do you have any recomendations for rotary tools for drillig holes for pins? So many to choose from !
I love Proxxon tools! They are made precisely for modelling and our kind of works, they operate well at low speed and power (particularly important working with plastic) and they can easily work with generic/other brand's bits
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Excellent \m/
Thoes metal wire holders are a great idea! How thick is the wire?
thnx :)
What kind of electrical drill you use?
Can I make millibutter with airbrush thinner?
or does it have to be 100% Iso?
It works! Milliput is water soluble, so you can use also just water but alcohol creates a better, smoother paste that drys faster. Thinner is basically diluted iso so it works but a little lower its full potential 😉
Thank you for Milli-butter.
Tony
😁😍😁
Holy crap. Your milli-butter technique just changed my life! Thank you! BTW...do you have a link for where you got that cool adjustable handle that the mini is mounted on? Love your vids! Keep them coming!
😁😊 Super happy to hear that the trick has been useful!!! Thanks a million to you 😊
The handle is a product of Dino Pivato and in the description there's a link to his FB page; he is an artisan and sells directly plinths, boxes and different handles 😊
will that alcohol trick work with all brands of green stuff?
No, GreenStuff is chemically a bit different and this trick doesn't work but it works on any proper epoxy putty
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM ah. the answer to my question Apoxiesculpt may work?
Ti scriverò in italiano......io di solito non lascio mai commenti e mi limito solo a guardare ma penso veramente che il tuo canale dia degli importantissimi contributi al nostro hobby per questo ti ringrazio! sono anni che dipingo per me...per amici e per terzi...ma ho trovato veramente una ricchissima fonte di ispirazione in quello che fai! Veramente bravo! Mi piacerebbe lasciarti il link della mia pagina instagram in modo da avere qualche tuo consiglio...ma ovviamente non trovo giusto farlo qui. ti scriverò magari in pvt passando dalla tua pagina web. Grazie ancora
Grazie mille a te!!! Davvero davvero davvero di cuore!!! Non hai idea di quanta soddisfazione mi dia il tuo commento :).
E' un piacerone, mandami il link e scrivimi pure dove ti sta più comodo, FB, Instagram, mail... ci sono tutti i link in cima alla pagina ;)
I need a paint handle like that!
😁
WOW ! Milli-Butter ! Do you know if it would work with green stuff?
😁 No, Greenstuff has a different chemical composition and this trick doesn't work with it
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM thats a shame I guess I'll have to buy milliput then ;)
@@teritras41 I can assure you, you'll never regret the purchase 😉
OK great video, thank you! And next question is, for resin builds, can I do a similar thin-and-paint with Tamiya basic type putty? (Or maybe I should just throw it out and get Milli?)
Thanks! You can use that kind of putties mixed with plastic glue to make them more fluid and easy to spread with the brush but the finish is a bit rougher than the one you can obtain from Milliput (to the point that I use it to add fine rough textures to flat panels! Check my video on the Grimdark Imperial Fist 😉)
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Brilliant, thanks again Marco.
What you mix milliput..water or thinner..?
He used isopropyl alcohol
Yippee Friday has come early :) Thanks Marco.....
.....Is it Friday Nov 1st yet? Need another 'fix' of Marco :(
Another great video full of tips, wet sanding as a prime example of never putting 2 and 2 together! Butyl; never heard of the stuff by name so will go digging to see if I can get any. Does it have a 'shelf life' ie looses its elasticity and stickyness after X days/weeks/months etc???
Have a great weekend bro
Thank you sooo much man! 😍
Butyl lives almost forever; it's used to seal roofs and car parts adapting its volume to temperature changes so a long life it's one of its primary functions 😉
Come and teach me your magic. I need trained in your amazing ways
😂😂😂😍
wonderful video! what alcohol did you use/where did you get it? cari saluti dalla svizzera!
Thanks a million!!! I use Isopropyl alcohol. You can find it in any pharmacy or with better prices online (Amazon, eBay, pharmaceutical supplies websites...). You can use also methilated alcohol from hardware stores or the simple pink alcohol from the supermarket (but Isopropanol is more efficient and the pink one doesn't exist in Ireland 😅)
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM (sorry, me again with essentially the same question)
but it's just the alcohol reacting, right? the [-OH] appendix in the chemical formula. so it doesn't really matter what (concentrated) alcohol you use. ethanol/spirit, the one you have as part of camping supplies, would work as well, right? or am i missing something?
Marco great video as usual!! I notice that you are using a proxxon drill, could you please let us know which model are you using?
Grazie ancora!
Thanks a million 😊! It's a Proxxon NG 2/E 😉
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM con la finanziaria di Novembre vediamo di comprarlo!! :):)
@@Snr-SCV-Driver forse un Dremel fa piú cose, ma il bello di questo é che va anche a velocità molto basse ottime per la plastica
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM si hai ragione voglio prenderlo per questo, i bassi giri sono ottimi per la plastica, e io la uso molto. Vediamo cosa trovo qui nel Pacific North West!
ho gia il cutter per il polistirolo proxxon e mi trovo bene, vedremo insomma!
sapresti suggerirmi come rimodellare delle ali storte di un devilman in resina?mi è arrivato il modello con le ali che non combaciano con la shiena....
ti ringrazio
Sto lavorando a un problema simile su un resin kit! Dipende un po' da come si incastrano meccanicamente le parti e di quanto non combaciano; se è un problema di resina in eccesso basta togliere pian piano materiale raffinando la zona di contatto, unire tutto con dei perni solidi e lavorare di stucchi per fare sparire la giunzione. Se è un problema di mancanze bisogna per forza scolpire il volume mancante dopo aver pernato
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM no purtroppo nulla di tutto ciò...le ali che vanno sui "binari" scavati sulla schiena (parliamo di un devilman)sono più arcuati,quindi non combaciano😭
Con delle foto si capirebbe meglio.
Grazie per ora,magari potrei provare riscaldandoli con acqua calda?🤔
@@giuseppecaforio1538 ah bhè questa situazione in realtà potrebbe essere ancora più facile da risolvere. Su quel tipo di resina acqua quasi bollente o asciugacapelli fanno miracoli per aggiustare l'angolo o la curvatura dei pezzi!
@@giuseppecaforio1538 mandami qualche foto qui notjustmecha@gmail.com 😉
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM ok ok 😄🤘
Hello Marco
can i use Butyl, as an option for camouflage tape from tamiya? Or is this material too strong and will remove paint when removed?
Hi! No it's definitely tooooo strong, it will remove the paint and probably a piece of the model 😱 but you can use silly putty for this job (or any other "brain" putty, "stress" putty... from toy stores) and that's really amazing!
Hey! Where's the link to buy my own mini vacuum? :)
😁😂😁
video on Thursday?!?! 🤩🤩🤩
I'm doing experiments with new time zones 😉
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Really far away if for you is already Friday! 🤣
@@gianmariasandigliano LOL!
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM I'm GMT +8 so it came out for me Friday morning at work which is awesome, downside would be if the next video is back at normal time so Saturday my world....a WHOLE 8 days without Marco....that thought makes me a sad panda :)
@@innsmouthharbour 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 This timing worked quite well so I could probably keep it!
Where did you get this kit?
Here's the website 😉 www.pegasoworld.com/kimera/
Amazing video with plenty helpful stuff! One small question if i may: usually after you pin (anything) do you superglue the Pins inside and outside? Or what is the procedure? I mean the whole point is securing the pins completely with superglue or just offer some support with them (like magnets) and that is it?
Glue everything and generously, making the pin a solid, integral part of the structure of the model! 😊
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM thank you so much!
Hey, I want to get into the big scale models like these. But i'd rather not f* them up cause I am a complete beginner in the miniature painting hobby. For the time being am just collecting stuff for "FUTURE". Could you suggest relatively cheap stuff I could train on, before targetting that sweet stuff?
The price point of this kind of models is more or less the same everywhere... 3D printing is probably the "cheapest" way to get a large number of big expendable figures. But if you are a beginner standard miniatures are still the best way to train your skills and wargaming monster and big heroes are almost 54/75mm models so perfect to do your first experiments 😉
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM thanks :D
Awesome video! lot´s of new things for me in this one. Good timing as i am painting a 1/10 Bust now. "Abyssal from scale75"
Are you going to use any Kimera paints on this Kimera model?
Awesome! And nice bust 😊 Yep, I'm going to use the whole arsenal on him (also enamels and oils 😉)
@@MarcoFrisoniNJMVery much looking forward to this! :D
Ciao Marco, ma non sarebbe stato meglio dare la prima passata di primer con il modello smontato?
Hello Marco, but wouldn't it have been better to give the first primer pass with the model disassembled?
Decisamente no; non ci sono veri e propri punti nascosti sul modello e primerando prima vai a toccare le superfici di incollaggio che é meglio tenere senza vernice e devi fare buchi e mettere perni per reggere i pezzi perdendo un sacco di tempo.
Definitely not; there aren't real hidden spots on the model and priming first you mess with gluing surfaces and you have to drill and pin everything to make painting support losing a lot of extra time!
I love large scale too. Check out Cthulugizzard on Etsy. Really awesome sculpts
Uuuu interesting!!! 😍
Again, you've shown us something that no one else does, in this case how you attach the models so they don't slip and how they're kept in place on wires (drill a hole and superglue the wire I presume).
If this were the magic circle you'd have been kicked out by now!
Fry: "A magician never reveals his secrets! Except the Great Reveal-o" 😂😂😂 Thanks man!!!
Somebody please freeze me for a week so I don't have to wait for next video!
LOL 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Just bought my first pack of milliput )))
Aren`t you a bit uneconomic with it?
Awesome!!! Lol, I had a lot of other stuff on the shelf waiting for some putty bit it happened after the video 😉
"Yes Forgeworld, we are talking about you" :) :) :)
Another great video - and weirdly, I was only today looking at this model (which I have): www.greebo-games.com/25989-black-hydra.html
...and this picture: www.belloflostsouls.net/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/rise_of_tiamat.jpg
...which is how I'm planning to paint it.
And then here today, you start a series on exactly the kind of project I'm looking at. Amazing!