It's taper tap, plug tap and bottoming tap For starting the hole, enlarging it a bit at the end of the blind hole, and finishing it with bottoming tap for full threads to the bottom. If using a device to keep it straight (a thick plate with straight holes in it, a spring loaded center in the drill press or lathe, etc) a plug tap can be the first to be used and then the bottoming tap. Taper taps are good for hand taping and eyeballing squareness. The taper makes it go straighter and self align.
For metric taps, you can determine the tap drill size by subtracting the pitch from the diameter. In this case it is a M10-1.5 thread. 10-1.5 =8.5 no table needed.
Thanks - I never quite understood about the reason for having to use the three taps as opposed to just the one. Really helpful video. Very clear explanation and demonstration.
Wow, this is the first metal working video I've watched where you have all positive comments! You deserve a medal! A+ Thanks for the informative video.
Handyman, thanks for the advice. I started out with small size bits, then moved up to the final size, I used 3 increments. It worked perfectly. To be fair, I don't think it was cast iron, I think it was just "aged" steel to make it look like that. Basically rusted. Your video and advice helped, I haven't had to tap holes for 30 years so your refresher was just what I needed.
Thanks! I made my first three taps today. M6 through two 1/4” steel plates. I only had one type of that taper so it was a great guide to get it right the first time. Now I have my foredom rotary tool attached quick change tool holder for my lathe. Cheers!
if you want a reliable way to do a straight tap without using a square, you can use a squared ?"x?"x1" thick block of aluminum and drill a 10mm or 10.1mm hole in it (for a M10 x 1,5 obviously).Then you just put the block over the hole you want tapped.I suggest this because you only checked one axis with your square (that we could see). Your tap could be off in the other axis and you wont notice it unless you check all around.Just drill all the common tap size you need on one block to save time.
What I use as a tapping guide to help make perfectly perpendicular holes are pre-tapped pieces of steel (done with a drill press) which I start the tap inside and align with the hole, clamp it in place if possible and start tapping the piece. This is when the piece I am tapping is too awkward to tap on the press. Give it a try and if you like the method, feel free to post a demo.
The third is called a bottoming tap on this side of the pond. It's good for starting holes but also for tapping blind holes because it allows the thread to terminate at the very bottom of the hole.
ULTIMATEHANDYMAN...Love your work mate. Just a few questions:1). I'm about to tap a hole in a car - the plenum chamber really and I need to tap into about 10mm approx....now the hole size I want is 4mm but the thing is that I've already drilled the hole and it's exactly 4mm...I don't really want a bigger hole size. Could I get away with this and do you also think I only need to use the initial tap in order to go through 10mm instead of using the 3 taps. Thanks in advance. Cheers
Great video but I have a question. How difficult is it to drill and tap into an iron railing? I have a gate that I need to drill and tap to add a lock to. I'm a little concerned about drilling and taping holes into iron. It's been years since I've had to drill and tap something and the iron adds a degree of difficulty.
Thanks for the great video. This is all new to me but now I feel like an expert. :) I agree that having the right tool makes a huge difference but having a quality tool is essential for this kind of work. My other tools are the best quality I can afford and I've never had a tool break or bend etc.
Tap wrench probably cracked because you were applying too much pressure when turning the tap, best to turn tap through half to three quarter turn before reversing to break off chip, especially when using smaller diameter threads.
@ultimatehandyman...It ain't a blind hole....I drilled through the other side.So U reckon if the hole's too big then I should use a Plug tap or a Helicoil insert? Cheers
For SAE, the body drill is the major diameter +.030". So a 1/4-20 thread= .250+.030=.280". Find a drill and tap chart either online, on your phone, consult a book(yes they still exist) find .280" and that's your drill size, in this case it's a 9/32nds. Also, if you like budget friendly tools, I'd recommend a half turn fwd, quarter turn backward and it should save some stress on the tool. Often times taps and wrenches break because the chip gets too long and gums up the hole. Thorough video thx
For metric, subtract the thread pitch from the tap size. 10M-1.5 = 8.5mm hole. 6M-1.0 = 5. So a 5mm hole for a 6mm tap ONLY works if the thread pitch is 1.0. If the thread pitch was .75, you would need a 5.25 hole for a M6-.75
for jerry cutini,drill hole smaler then one you will be treading,then use tool called tread cutting drill tool from Wurth.easy to use looks like a drill with tapper in one.
Use a drill press, turn it on and then turn it off again and let the momentum of the drill press make the tap work its way down untill it stops by itself. Now you can use a tap-holder to do the rest of the work and it ensures that the thread is perpendicular to the workpiece.
They are probably useful in certain situations. I have some made by HMT, but have not used them yet. I have used the HMT turbo drills and impact taps, I can drill and tap M12 holes in steel I beams in a couple of minutes, with ease 👍
Honestly I have to tap like 50 parts in a day sometimes and for a 1/4-20 bolt tap I literally just use my cordless drill and some wd-40. I have a badass dewalt and I set the power around 10 and the speed at 1. Also if you think a drill can't handle that abuse, it has for 3 years and my boss bought it and trained me to tap that way. It seriously works like a charm.
Actually I watched another one of your videos and I see you do this the same, I'm always trying to learn new ways of doing things. Thanks for the video!
I have a bridgeport, so I can keep it straight. I do half turn cw, then quarter turn ccw. I've only tapped aluminum before and wondered if there was anything special for steel I need to know.
FYI, I have the exact same Chinese tap set. They are good for about 1-2 uses then they are in the trash bin. I’ve also learned a few these taps were slightly out of spec. I’m done with subpar tools. Keep posting great insight videos.
This might be a dumb question, but I'm a total rookie to this. Can you use a simple bit of motor oil, or even plain old vegetable oil or cooking spray? All you want is some lube, right? Thanks
what do i do when i have noticed the the tap is in crooked but ive already gone one or two revolutions, can the hole be remedied or shall i just keep turning?
In most cases, you can remove it and start again. If you have a pillar drill, I would suggest putting the tap in the chuck and rotating it by hand to get is started squarely!
Thanks, I use the panasonic hdc-sd10 I have about three of them now as they are so reliable and easy to use. Sometimes you can pick them up cheap second hand (just make sure they work properly before buying)
***** Thank you very much for sharing the information. Your video, audio and focusing are very good in these tutorials, of course your teachings are very valuable as well.
You can but it depends on the wall thickness of the tube. It will probably be too thin to tap, but you could use a nut insert, which is used like a rivet but leaves a tapped hole. They are sometimes called rivnuts or rivet nuts
Thank you! I wish I had heard of rivet nuts sooner. I was thinking the pipe wall thinness would be an issue. What I am trying to do sounds extremely simple but turns out is one of the more difficult things to figure out.
Anklepants Skate Zine No problem, I managed to make a video on how to use them yesterday- Rivet nuts | Riv nuts | Nutsert | thread inserts for thin metal
Yes, but you must grip the round shank and not the square on the end. It's common to use them in a drill press to get the tap started and ensure that it's parallel, you can't of course switch the machine on to tap the hole unless you have a special tapping head attachment.
I have a M10x1.5 tap and using a 8.5mm drill bit, but the tap is unable to enter the hole. It would just keep on spinning at the tip of the hole. I thought at first the hole is too small but it seems that 8.5 mm drill bit is indeed the correct one to use. Any idea what's wrong ? (same problem with the M8x1.25 tap using 6.5mm drill bit)
There is a chart on this page- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/metalworking/tap-and-die If you are ever stuck and don't have a chart, you can deduct the pitch of the thread from the diameter of the thread and that will give you the drill size. Example- M10 X 1.5 pitch 10 - 1.5 = 8.5
I would wear safety glasses and full face visor, so that the chips do not fall into your eyes. Apart from that, it is pretty much the same. Thanks for the comment
+testbooster You can-providing it is new and not used. Be aware though that the fumes that come from it might be toxic, so best to use a dedicated cutting fluid/oil or even water.
I've recently snapped off two tapered tap screws: how much pressure do I use? I'm not that strong; perhaps the metal is crap? Broke both Irwin and DeWalt screw bolts. Weird. What am I doing wrong?
Can you please clarify, exactly what you have broken? I'm in the UK and I'm not quite sure what you mean by a tapered tap screw? Or Irwin and DeWalt screw bolts?
@@corporaterobotslave400 Oh, OK (no problem) Taps are made from a very hard steel, but hard steels are often brittle. So, whilst they are very hard, the steel can easily be broken, as it is not flexible like a mild steel. If the tap breaks, you need to ensure that you are drilling the correct diameter tapping hole. There is a chart on this page for metric tapping sizes- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/metalworking/tap-and-die Once the correct sized hole is drilled, you need to start off slowly and ensure that the tap is kept as straight as possible, don’t forget to reverse the tap every few turns to break off the chip. Cheap taps are notorious for breaking! I often try to purchase quality taps such as Dormer or Presto I hope this helps 😉
Yes, that is correct. There is a chart on this page for future reference- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/metalworking/tap-and-die Thanks for the comment
I ordered a Driller bit kit with the tapping kit, they're coming with a 3mm and a 3.5mm. I'll have to try the 3mm, and if the tapper get too hard, I'll try the 3.5mm. I'll try to test it before doing in my computer case. Thanks for the reply.
Leonardo Bruno Chaves Siqueira You are welcome. You might manage with the 3mm bit on a computer case as they are generally very thin. If you use a little lubricant/oil it will help. Take it easy with the 3mm and like you say if that does not work you will have to use the 3.5mm, although it will be a loose fitting screw afterwards!
Thanks, I really wanna thank you about all your videos, I had Learned a lot from you, I like what you are doing and how you do it. I appreciate it. Good Luck Bro.
I've found that you have to push down on the tap as you turn it, especially to start with. Otherwise at the start, the tap just eats out the metal before finally getting to threading. That's my experience anyway. I push as hard as I can until the tap's halfway in. Using taper taps.
I normally only use a finishing tap when tapping thick material. Once you get past half way on a taper tap it's exactly the same as a plug tap (or so I was told). Thanks for the comments
Not necessarily. Cheap tools can be good tools. When I was a pro mechanic I started with a 25 dollar impact socket set from HF. I still have all but one socket and thats because I lost it
I had 1 boss showing me to do it this way, yesterday and then the soon to be owner of the store (son of the "main" owner, nephew to all the other owners" came out and showed me how to do it with a drill......l😅
i drilled the right hole size for my 1/2"-20 UNF but i stilll cant tap it i think because the tap is cheep.... update : i broke it in the tap whole LOL....oh joy oh joy.... this what happens when you buy cheap tools lol what a horrible day
oh man...oh sweet lord.. drilled in the middle to use easy out... BROKE IN as well,,,what in the name of gods kindome going on im tap dancing in the shop...aahh im going to bed before i lose what ever sanity left in me... horrible horrible day....i have to tackle it immediately first thing in the morning,,, what a bugger ..this is true punishment from above :(
update : took the Oxygen Acetylene and blew it threw .. welded in more beef using a stick welder... redrilled to proper size "warning welding points are actauly harder then untouched areas so get your hardest drill bit on that one..try your carbids if you got any" went to my favorite hardware shop and got me an SKC brand TAP 1/2-20 UNF "made in japan" drilled it to propper size which is around 11.45mm-11.5mm it went there like it was nobodys business MAJOR difference i say...hmmmm finaly...burden off me shoulders.. so...on taps...yes you can buy cheapy taps BUT for love of whatever god/idol/fish you worship DONT
![[TH] VCT Pacific Stage 2 - Week 1 Day 1 // DRX vs ZETA | BLD vs TS](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AWaOqaxN6Y0/mqdefault.jpg)
It's taper tap, plug tap and bottoming tap
For starting the hole, enlarging it a bit at the end of the blind hole, and finishing it with bottoming tap for full threads to the bottom.
If using a device to keep it straight (a thick plate with straight holes in it, a spring loaded center in the drill press or lathe, etc) a plug tap can be the first to be used and then the bottoming tap.
Taper taps are good for hand taping and eyeballing squareness. The taper makes it go straighter and self align.
For metric taps, you can determine the tap drill size by subtracting the pitch from the diameter. In this case it is a M10-1.5 thread. 10-1.5 =8.5 no table needed.
Thanks for that, I'm new to this game and that's the kind of tip I like!
powaybob
I liked your comment
I think good idea
Yet another advantage of the metric system
Thanks - I never quite understood about the reason for having to use the three taps as opposed to just the one. Really helpful video. Very clear explanation and demonstration.
That's the 2nd time your videos have helped me this week, thanks man!!!!!
You are welcome Zac.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Wow, this is the first metal working video I've watched where you have all positive comments! You deserve a medal! A+ Thanks for the informative video.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Handyman, thanks for the advice. I started out with small size bits, then moved up to the final size, I used 3 increments. It worked perfectly. To be fair, I don't think it was cast iron, I think it was just "aged" steel to make it look like that. Basically rusted. Your video and advice helped, I haven't had to tap holes for 30 years so your refresher was just what I needed.
Thanks! I made my first three taps today. M6 through two 1/4” steel plates. I only had one type of that taper
so it was a great guide to get it right the first time. Now I have my foredom rotary tool attached quick change tool holder for my lathe. Cheers!
Fantastic!
Thanks for the comment
Thanks dude, I really was needing a guide.
Cheers,
Steve
if you want a reliable way to do a straight tap without using a square, you can use a squared ?"x?"x1" thick block of aluminum and drill a 10mm or 10.1mm hole in it (for a M10 x 1,5 obviously).Then you just put the block over the hole you want tapped.I suggest this because you only checked one axis with your square (that we could see). Your tap could be off in the other axis and you wont notice it unless you check all around.Just drill all the common tap size you need on one block to save time.
You are the real expert in metal works ;)..thanks for all the videos very very useful
Meiji Jap
I'm glad the videos help ;-)
Thanks for the comment
What I use as a tapping guide to help make perfectly perpendicular holes are pre-tapped pieces of steel (done with a drill press) which I start the tap inside and align with the hole, clamp it in place if possible and start tapping the piece. This is when the piece I am tapping is too awkward to tap on the press. Give it a try and if you like the method, feel free to post a demo.
I was taught the taps are called a Taper Tap for beginning and a Plug Tap for finishing and dead holes. Never seen a set with 3 taps. Good video.
You're an excellent teacher-thanks-Michael-Australia
+sergentm1
Thanks Michael ;-)
Thanks man that's just what I needed! Took me 15 minutes to figure out what an 'ole was haha!
brit, man.
The third is called a bottoming tap on this side of the pond. It's good for starting holes but also for tapping blind holes because it allows the thread to terminate at the very bottom of the hole.
ULTIMATEHANDYMAN...Love your work mate. Just a few questions:1). I'm about to tap a hole in a car - the plenum chamber really and I need to tap into about 10mm approx....now the hole size I want is 4mm but the thing is that I've already drilled the hole and it's exactly 4mm...I don't really want a bigger hole size. Could I get away with this and do you also think I only need to use the initial tap in order to go through 10mm instead of using the 3 taps. Thanks in advance. Cheers
Great video but I have a question. How difficult is it to drill and tap into an iron railing? I have a gate that I need to drill and tap to add a lock to. I'm a little concerned about drilling and taping holes into iron. It's been years since I've had to drill and tap something and the iron adds a degree of difficulty.
Wow, what do you use to record? The quality of this video is amazing even at 480p.
amazing video im looking a good way to do it and this is the way to do it
Thanks for the great video. This is all new to me but now I feel like an expert. :) I agree that having the right tool makes a huge difference but having a quality tool is essential for this kind of work. My other tools are the best quality I can afford and I've never had a tool break or bend etc.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Tap wrench probably cracked because you were applying too much pressure when turning the tap, best to turn tap through half to three quarter turn before reversing to break off chip, especially when using smaller diameter threads.
@ultimatehandyman...Hey man....or do you reckon i'm better off using a press-fit insert? Cheers
@ultimatehandyman...It ain't a blind hole....I drilled through the other side.So U reckon if the hole's too big then I should use a Plug tap or a Helicoil insert?
Cheers
For SAE, the body drill is the major diameter +.030". So a 1/4-20 thread= .250+.030=.280". Find a drill and tap chart either online, on your phone, consult a book(yes they still exist) find .280" and that's your drill size, in this case it's a 9/32nds. Also, if you like budget friendly tools, I'd recommend a half turn fwd, quarter turn backward and it should save some stress on the tool. Often times taps and wrenches break because the chip gets too long and gums up the hole. Thorough video thx
man if I knew how to tap threads before my life would have been so much easier!
Great basic explained video
Thanks for the comment 👍
@bestamerica always good to know the old way of doing it, never know when you won't have electricity.
this video is very useful, thank you very much
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
For metric, subtract the thread pitch from the tap size. 10M-1.5 = 8.5mm hole. 6M-1.0 = 5. So a 5mm hole for a 6mm tap ONLY works if the thread pitch is 1.0. If the thread pitch was .75, you would need a 5.25 hole for a M6-.75
for jerry cutini,drill hole smaler then one you will be treading,then use tool called tread cutting drill tool from Wurth.easy to use looks like a drill with tapper in one.
Over here at work, trying to tap out a hole. They had me with an M24 x 3 tap with a 47/64 bit. TH-cam and google to the rescue. Thanks bro
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Excellent! I’ve been struggling tapping a thread in brass 😏
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Just finished a hand tapping machine made from a old drill stand ,makes tapping child's play ,have a look
What's an ole? Just playing nice vid!
How do you thread the outside of a cylindrical metal object if you want to screw something else onto it?
@donkeymorris
Machine mart (UK) has a decent set for around £20, I've had a set for a few years and used it hundreds of times without any problems.
500th like! Great video, thank you.
Thanks for the comment and the like ;-)
Use a drill press, turn it on and then turn it off again and let the momentum of the drill press make the tap work its way down untill it stops by itself. Now you can use a tap-holder to do the rest of the work and it ensures that the thread is perpendicular to the workpiece.
Great tutorial, Thanks.......
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Thanks, very handy, i'll give it a go.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Is it recommended to drill and tap a preexisting metal clothesline. I want to put up a badminton net for some neighborhood kids and need a project.
It might be a bit thin to tap?
Perhaps drill right through it and use bolts?
It depends on the wall thickness, really 😉
very good
how much must be the difference between taps diameter and hole diameter?
What is your opinion on those Milwaukee drill bits that both drill and tap? They look stupid to me. Using a drill to tap.
They are probably useful in certain situations. I have some made by HMT, but have not used them yet. I have used the HMT turbo drills and impact taps, I can drill and tap M12 holes in steel I beams in a couple of minutes, with ease 👍
Thanks for that, useful.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thank you!
You're welcome!
I think Irwin is good place to get taps i heard that they make good drill bits
I think Dormer or Heller might be better, although I have only ever tried Irwin wood bits.
👍
I sometimes just spot weld the nut on the back
That's what she said...
Honestly I have to tap like 50 parts in a day sometimes and for a 1/4-20 bolt tap I literally just use my cordless drill and some wd-40. I have a badass dewalt and I set the power around 10 and the speed at 1. Also if you think a drill can't handle that abuse, it has for 3 years and my boss bought it and trained me to tap that way. It seriously works like a charm.
+C Smith I do that as well, but you would not believe how many people frown upon it LOLth-cam.com/video/0MyzdVGQXkgT/w-d-xo.htmlhanks for the comment
Actually I watched another one of your videos and I see you do this the same, I'm always trying to learn new ways of doing things. Thanks for the video!
+C Smith poop on me?
I have a bridgeport, so I can keep it straight. I do half turn cw, then quarter turn ccw. I've only tapped aluminum before and wondered if there was anything special for steel I need to know.
Just ensure you use a coolant/lubricant and don't apply too much pressure.
Thanks for the comment
Thanks 👍
Thanks Bud.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
FYI, I have the exact same Chinese tap set. They are good for about 1-2 uses then they are in the trash bin. I’ve also learned a few these taps were slightly out of spec. I’m done with subpar tools. Keep posting great insight videos.
This might be a dumb question, but I'm a total rookie to this. Can you use a simple bit of motor oil, or even plain old vegetable oil or cooking spray? All you want is some lube, right? Thanks
Yes, anything is better than nothing.
what do i do when i have noticed the the tap is in crooked but ive already gone one or two revolutions, can the hole be remedied or shall i just keep turning?
In most cases, you can remove it and start again.
If you have a pillar drill, I would suggest putting the tap in the chuck and rotating it by hand to get is started squarely!
Nice video. May I ask what camera did you use to film it?
Thanks, I use the panasonic hdc-sd10
I have about three of them now as they are so reliable and easy to use. Sometimes you can pick them up cheap second hand (just make sure they work properly before buying)
***** Thank you very much for sharing the information.
Your video, audio and focusing are very good in these tutorials, of course your teachings are very valuable as well.
Jan Waldner
You are welcome ;-)
Thanks for the comments
1.make sure the tool is straight,use lubricants other wise the tool could brake in the middle.
Can you tap into the side of a pipe, or more specifically, a chain link fence post? Do taps come in smaller sizes with finer threads, too?
You can but it depends on the wall thickness of the tube. It will probably be too thin to tap, but you could use a nut insert, which is used like a rivet but leaves a tapped hole. They are sometimes called rivnuts or rivet nuts
Thank you! I wish I had heard of rivet nuts sooner. I was thinking the pipe wall thinness would be an issue. What I am trying to do sounds extremely simple but turns out is one of the more difficult things to figure out.
Anklepants Skate Zine
No problem, I managed to make a video on how to use them yesterday-
Rivet nuts | Riv nuts | Nutsert | thread inserts for thin metal
Do you know if those taps can be put in a drill press?
Yes, but you must grip the round shank and not the square on the end. It's common to use them in a drill press to get the tap started and ensure that it's parallel, you can't of course switch the machine on to tap the hole unless you have a special tapping head attachment.
what size would i use to re thread a 7/8 hole (not to make a new hole but to re thread it because of stripped threads )
+nick diaz
Not sure sorry, as I don't normally work with Imperial sizes.
I have a M10x1.5 tap and using a 8.5mm drill bit, but the tap is unable to enter the hole. It would just keep on spinning at the tip of the hole. I thought at first the hole is too small but it seems that 8.5 mm drill bit is indeed the correct one to use. Any idea what's wrong ? (same problem with the M8x1.25 tap using 6.5mm drill bit)
It sounds like you might be using a plug tap.
You need a taper tap to start the threads off www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/3-taps.jpg
Sir can you pls.help mhie i have hand tap which is m12 m10 m8 m6 m5 what size of drill bit should i use of each hand tap size
There is a chart on this page- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/metalworking/tap-and-die
If you are ever stuck and don't have a chart, you can deduct the pitch of the thread from the diameter of the thread and that will give you the drill size. Example-
M10 X 1.5 pitch
10 - 1.5 = 8.5
I have to tap a 40 mm deep blind hole in an overhead position, is there anything I need to do different?
I would wear safety glasses and full face visor, so that the chips do not fall into your eyes. Apart from that, it is pretty much the same.
Thanks for the comment
can you use engine oil/motor oil as cutting oil?
+testbooster
You can-providing it is new and not used.
Be aware though that the fumes that come from it might be toxic, so best to use a dedicated cutting fluid/oil or even water.
den viser lige hvad jeg skal bruge :)
Taps are known as 1st taper,2nd taper and plug tap.
excellent video, i now understand the bullshit about taps and dies in my resistant materials text book.
I've recently snapped off two tapered tap screws: how much pressure do I use? I'm not that strong; perhaps the metal is crap? Broke both Irwin and DeWalt screw bolts. Weird. What am I doing wrong?
Can you please clarify, exactly what you have broken?
I'm in the UK and I'm not quite sure what you mean by a tapered tap screw?
Or Irwin and DeWalt screw bolts?
@@ultimatehandyman I'm brand new to this, so I'm sure I'm getting terms wrong. Tapered taps?
@@corporaterobotslave400 Oh, OK (no problem)
Taps are made from a very hard steel, but hard steels are often brittle. So, whilst they are very hard, the steel can easily be broken, as it is not flexible like a mild steel.
If the tap breaks, you need to ensure that you are drilling the correct diameter tapping hole. There is a chart on this page for metric tapping sizes- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/metalworking/tap-and-die
Once the correct sized hole is drilled, you need to start off slowly and ensure that the tap is kept as straight as possible, don’t forget to reverse the tap every few turns to break off the chip.
Cheap taps are notorious for breaking! I often try to purchase quality taps such as Dormer or Presto
I hope this helps 😉
@@ultimatehandyman thanks; haven't heard of those brands, but found a Dormer tap on ebay in the States. Cheers, mate!
sir, pls calrify, for M10 do i need to drill 8.5mm hole, is that correct
Yes, that is correct. There is a chart on this page for future reference-
www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/metalworking/tap-and-die
Thanks for the comment
What's the name of that guide again please.
Zeus guide 👍
Example here- bit.ly/3JLp7CK
I could tap that in 3 seconds with the tap in a cordless drill, just need to enlarge the hole slightly.
Me too 👍
I have the same cheap set of taps that I finally got around to using last night. It's now in the garbage.
Best place for them 😂
Did you say "Zeuss" guide for the chart?
Yes, that is correct- fave.co/2ZKCuMw
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman Thanks!
'
i did used a drill with a tapping screw,,,
no need it both hands
I liked the part where he tapped threads into that piece of steel!
👍
Say I need an M4 thread (the screw have 4mm on the outside of its thread, right?), what diameter should the driller have?
3.3mm should do it ;-)
I ordered a Driller bit kit with the tapping kit, they're coming with a 3mm and a 3.5mm. I'll have to try the 3mm, and if the tapper get too hard, I'll try the 3.5mm. I'll try to test it before doing in my computer case. Thanks for the reply.
Leonardo Bruno Chaves Siqueira
You are welcome.
You might manage with the 3mm bit on a computer case as they are generally very thin. If you use a little lubricant/oil it will help. Take it easy with the 3mm and like you say if that does not work you will have to use the 3.5mm, although it will be a loose fitting screw afterwards!
Thanks, man! I think I'll do fine with your tips.
What is the spray you are using?
Its drilling/tapping fluid.
Thanks,
I really wanna thank you about all your videos, I had Learned a lot from you, I like what you are doing and how you do it.
I appreciate it.
Good Luck Bro.
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comments
tried 4 times doing this for a tube. imposible to get it straight..
😱
Yea, a die. You can also repair threads with a die.
Push it in the ole, eh? Lol just teasing bud. good vid!
LOL
Hi,
I have a 4 mm hole.
Which tap do I need? M5 or M6 ?
thanks.
Long range Ben
You will have a chance with the M5 but no chance with the M6
Really the hole needs to be 4.2mm for a M5 tap ;-)
*****
thank you
Long range Ben
You are welcome ;-)
Hai.. how about m6.. I drill 5.5mm.. can I do that.. I am a beginer.. please help.. i wis try so hard 🤣
I try tap stanlees stell.. first i drill hole 5mm.. dosnt work.. u right.. tomorrow I wan to try 5.5mm .. couse very hard to find drill bit 5.2mm
damn 11 years ago
👍
I've found that you have to push down on the tap as you turn it, especially to start with. Otherwise at the start, the tap just eats out the metal before finally getting to threading. That's my experience anyway. I push as hard as I can until the tap's halfway in. Using taper taps.
No finishing tap?
I normally only use a finishing tap when tapping thick material.
Once you get past half way on a taper tap it's exactly the same as a plug tap (or so I was told).
Thanks for the comments
Thanks man. So we’ll explained. Yorkshire kiwi
Thanks for the comment 👍
try tapping with wd40. it works best.
What about wd40 as lube?
WD-40 is fine, any oil or even water is better than nothing at all.
Lesson #2: Never buy cheap tools. I've learned that one with a set of screwdrivers. Lesson #1 is PPE
Thanks for the comment
Not necessarily. Cheap tools can be good tools.
When I was a pro mechanic I started with a 25 dollar impact socket set from HF. I still have all but one socket and thats because I lost it
I had 1 boss showing me to do it this way, yesterday and then the soon to be owner of the store (son of the "main" owner, nephew to all the other owners" came out and showed me how to do it with a drill......l😅
i drilled the right hole size
for my 1/2"-20 UNF but i stilll cant tap it
i think because the tap is cheep....
update : i broke it in the tap whole LOL....oh joy oh joy....
this what happens when you buy cheap tools lol
what a horrible day
Nightmare!
I had to drill a broken tap out once, it took a while!
Good luck with it ;-)
oh man...oh sweet lord..
drilled in the middle to use easy out...
BROKE IN as well,,,what in the name of gods kindome going on
im tap dancing in the shop...aahh im going to bed before i lose what ever sanity left in me...
horrible horrible day....i have to tackle it immediately first thing in the morning,,,
what a bugger ..this is true punishment from above :(
Faisal Abdulaziz
Sometimes I have days like that.
Tomorrow is another day ;-)
Best of luck with it tomorrow!
update :
took the Oxygen Acetylene and blew it threw ..
welded in more beef using a stick welder...
redrilled to proper size
"warning welding points are actauly harder then untouched areas so get your hardest drill bit on that one..try your carbids if you got any"
went to my favorite hardware shop
and got me an SKC brand TAP
1/2-20 UNF "made in japan"
drilled it to propper size which is around 11.45mm-11.5mm
it went there like it was nobodys business
MAJOR difference i say...hmmmm finaly...burden off me shoulders..
so...on taps...yes you can buy cheapy taps
BUT for love of whatever god/idol/fish you worship DONT
Faisal Abdulaziz
Sounds like you had fun!
Thanks for the update and the comments ;-)
a little countersink is needed for gripping the tap easily, here some drill diameters for tapping: (Tap ISO-Metric - Drill diameter in mm)
M1 -0,7 / M1,2 -0,9 / M1,4 -1 / M1,7 -1,3 / M2 -1,5 / M2,3 -1,8 / M2,6 -2,1 / M3 -2,5 / M3,5 -2,9 / M4 -3,3 / M5 -4,2 / M6 -5 / M8 -6,7 / M10 -8,4 / M12 -10,25 / M14 -12 / M16 -14 / M18 -15,5 / M20 -17,5 / M24 -20,75
ISO-Metric Fine: M8x1 -7 / M10x1 -9 / M12x1 -11 / M14x1 -13 / M12x1,5 -10,5 / M14x1,5 -12,5 / M16x1,5 -14,5 / M18x1,5 -16,5 / M20x1,5 -18,5 / M22x1,5 -20,5 / M24x1,5 -22,5 / M27x1,5 -25,5 / M30x1,5 -28,5 / M33x1,5 -31,5 / M24x2 -22 /
M27x2 -25 / M30x2 -28 / M33x2 -31
It's all fun and games until you have to tap 3x holes in 70 piece of metal :\
Never use cheap taps and dies for steel...
He tapped that ole' like a mofo
'ole' = hole
'tread' = thread
'tree' = three
Aussies do not using the letter 'h' much.
Nothing worse than cheap Chinese tools failing when you need to do a job.
Absolutely!
Thanks for the comment 👍