Quite amazing how few people use split dies correctly, and this is an example of someone not realising what they are doing. The die is split for a reason, and the holder has grub screws for a reason, yet few people ever mention them. The die should be installed in the holder with the split in line with the middle grub screw. You should tighten the middle screw a little to expand the die for the first cut. It’s instead of having first second and bottom taps for internal threads. Expanding the die makes the first cut if the thread shallow so that the thread isn’t fully bottomed out and it’s easier to cut, especially if you have a very long thread to cut. Once you have done a first pass, you loosen the middle screw and just nip up the outer two screws, just a tad. This closes the die a tiny amount such that when you make the next pass the thread is cut to the very bottom of the thread profile. The screws are also a way of matching the size of an existing thread if the thread length needs to be increased. The screws can be tightened until the die is not loose on the existing thread, and this ensures that the new thread is cut to the same diameter. The guy in this video put the die in the holder in the wrong position and didn’t even bother with the screws. Not the end of the world, but in some circumstances you may end up with a thread that is too tight for a matching female thread if you don’t know what you’re doing.
thats what I thought the point of the split was, to start loosened and gradually cut the the threads by tightening up the split through a series of passes
Thank you sir for helping me to understand better what I've been doing wrong. I'm in between a rock & a hard spot because I'm trying to make a stud for my tractor engine that has been DISCONTINUED. It is 3.375"/85.725mm long. It is a rocker stud in the head that I MUST have to get my diesel engine back running. The stud 10mm has 1.5mm threads .625"/15.875mm long on one end with 1.25mm threads 1.5"/38.10mm long on the other end with a NO THREAD area in the middle 1.25"/31.75mm. So far, the two that I have threaded have bent slightly just enough that they WON'T work in the rockers in the engine. I'm NOT giving up because if I don't get one to work my tractor is done. Thanks for your insight that has helped me. Keep your fingers crossed that I can get two made. GOD BLESS SIR!🙏🙏🙏
Thanks for this very informative video. I learned some things that I didn’t know before. I’m wanting to correctly chase the threads on 1/8-27, 1/4-18 and 3/8-18 pipe in the near future.
So, is the rod 3/8" diameter or a bit smaller. I've seen a lot of videos on this subject, and no one ever mentions the size of the rod in relation to the size of the die. This would be very helpful for a rookie such as myself. Very clear and to the point tutorial though. Thank you.
In all my years of experience with machines & Repairing equipment of all shapes types and sizes nobody has ever tried to teach me or pass it on to me what die nut to use for a specific job. that's a new one on me. I've been cranking a wrench close to 40 years. guess it's never too late to teach a old dog new tricks... ????
I do it al the days i make treads with taps and dies but when I was younger I has a little factory and in this thime I tread on treadrolling machines and that is super faster in 24mm you can it do in 4 seconds that machines was nicely
HI, when I am using a Die to thread a rod i never seam to get the correct diameter in the lathe. where does one find the diameter of the rod for a specific threading Die. An example, the diameter of rod for a 1/4 28 or a 5/8 11 Die? Thank you.
Great video! I do have a question tho. When it says "This side up" does that refer to when you are LOADING the die into the handle or as you are USING it, meaning you would load that side down into the handle?
Kyle Runyan Refers to what you see when threading. You should see ‘this side up’ while you are cutting threads. Also remember to use lots of cutting oil and go backwards every 1/4 turn or less to release the cut material. Patience is key in using taps and dies. Cheers dude
when i use the die to make a threaded rod i get a curved-like thread. as if the rod is banana shaped- except its straight, but the threads are sharp on one side and dull on the other side of rod. i have no idea what is causing this, but its fairly often that this happens to me- anyone have any thoughts?
I have problems getting short threads straight. They always turn out a little bit angled. The thread is only about an inch long and when the die is on there, there is barely anything to measure. Any tips? I have this problem on all the threads I'm cutting.
I was wondering the same thing. You could put your workpiece in a lathe and run it at low speed, but I wonder how you would hold the die? Maybe a big enough chuck in a tailstock could take it? And then hopefully the screw inside the die would be enough to expand it for your first pass, because the die is meant to be used in the stock.
@@godsamongmen8003 You do not use a die with a lathe. Cutting threads on a lathe is an entirely different process from using a die, and is much more complicated. This video shows how to use a die, and that's the long and the short of it. There's really no quicker way to use one.
I can’t find a video on how to keep it from spinning in the vise, I got my fuse so tight I almost bent the handle and the 1/4 round keeps turning in the vise, yeah it’s a weak mill vise but there’s gotta be a a trick to hold it
robalan57 Yes they make both threading and rethreading dies for pipes. These are not identified like normal thread sizes (1/4”-20) but rather in the form of NPT or BPT and other types. If you are in the United States you should look for NPT. For example, a 3/4” NPT die will thread 3/4” nominal pipe. They make hand threaders for new threads (see RIDGID for example) or rethreading dies for repairing threads (made by Hanson for example).
I guess I'm pretty well hooped; I spent all my money on hex dies thinkin I could thread what I needed with them, only to find that I have the wrong tools for the job!!
Because they are new and sharp, the hex dies will work just fine. The SECRET IS, to make your own decent sized handles - with a decent GUIDE, to make starting and straightness effortless. I couldn't stand using that junk stuff up above - NO rod guides? - what a joke!.
Yes because the thread is on the screw side so screwing it in opens the die. But presumably one should then loosen the screw to get a deeper cut thread on the rod.
this is twice if had too thread clean rod and every time the treads will start to twist at an angle about 1/3 way down... then it will go straight not sure why. my be too fast or dull cutting dia !!!
Thanks for bad advice - I followed your instructions with the die the wrong way round!!! It's lucky people in the comments section know the right orientation of the die!!
I am learning this as a need for fabricating my own rods to hold bluetooth speakers to my stock BMW R1150RT handlebar. This bike comes with stop fairing mirrors and predrilled holes in the controls brace. By fabricating my own rod I am hoping to use a rod similar to the one used on the GS model mirrors but instead of mirrors they will be die at whatever needs to be to match the socket screw of my speaker. Intuitively doable but had never done anything like this. So your video instructs me in the right direction. Each BT speaker weights about 30 Oz. So weight wise I don’t need heavy duty rod but i figure that because of the air pressure and vibration I need to go a bit “overkill”. Any recommendation (material, diameter and pitch) all welcome
I've been trying this. Couldn't get the thread die started: (I had the starter side in the right side.) So I opened it further. Still no start. So I put more downward force on it. Then the die broke into two parts! What did I do wrong? The funny think is: I managed to make the thread with the broken die. It finally opened put far enough to start the thread, and I could still close it in the stock to make the final pass.
You listened to this guy if you did what he did in this video, it's one turn forward and half turn back, always use a cutting compound like oil or whatever, also there are dies that are made of different metals, the main ones are carbon and then there is high speed steel (HSS) , you want them to last, use HSS, use carbon if you don't use it much, lubricate both die and part you're working on, makes things easier, last longer and makes you equipment last too, hope it helps.
@@CHEVI789 thanks for the response, but the problem is that I cannot get it started. Your response doesn't give any insight on how to fix that. All the other stuff you mention: already doing that.
@@jhbonarius , sorry about that buddy, I usually put it on a lathe at a 60 degree pitch but not to a point, sorry it's hard to describe by writing, if you have a lathe as I do, put the work into the lathe if you can, then turn the tool post to 30 degrees ( 90-30=60), take bit by bit off the edge, say 2 millimeters and try that, if not take more off the edge, say 3 millimeters, I've found 3 millimeters works well but depending on the size you might have to take off less or more, if you don;t have a lathe then use a bench grinder, hope it helps.
![Wuthering Waves | #1 ผมมากู้โลกที่ล่มสลาย อีกหนึ่งเกมเทพที่ลอยคอ [บท 1 ตอน 1-2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YtnWJmY2DNU/mqdefault.jpg)
sir:
That was the best demonstration of threading I have ever seen. Thank you so much for your patience and time. I have actually learned something.
Quite amazing how few people use split dies correctly, and this is an example of someone not realising what they are doing. The die is split for a reason, and the holder has grub screws for a reason, yet few people ever mention them. The die should be installed in the holder with the split in line with the middle grub screw. You should tighten the middle screw a little to expand the die for the first cut. It’s instead of having first second and bottom taps for internal threads. Expanding the die makes the first cut if the thread shallow so that the thread isn’t fully bottomed out and it’s easier to cut, especially if you have a very long thread to cut. Once you have done a first pass, you loosen the middle screw and just nip up the outer two screws, just a tad. This closes the die a tiny amount such that when you make the next pass the thread is cut to the very bottom of the thread profile. The screws are also a way of matching the size of an existing thread if the thread length needs to be increased. The screws can be tightened until the die is not loose on the existing thread, and this ensures that the new thread is cut to the same diameter. The guy in this video put the die in the holder in the wrong position and didn’t even bother with the screws. Not the end of the world, but in some circumstances you may end up with a thread that is too tight for a matching female thread if you don’t know what you’re doing.
thats what I thought the point of the split was, to start loosened and gradually cut the the threads by tightening up the split through a series of passes
You should make a video!
Agreed. You set it as wide as possible for the first cut. I was viewing to find out what cutting lube to use..
I wasn't aware of this info, but I haven't used my die yet, so I am glad you put this in as a comment, and now I know.
The split is there so you can adjust for wear, an cut to different classes of thread fit.
Best instructional video I’ve seen explaining threading with dies!
Always worth checking out what you think you already know. I learnt a lot from your explanation. Much appreciated
Thank you sir for helping me to understand better what I've been doing wrong. I'm in between a rock & a hard spot because I'm trying to make a stud for my tractor engine that has been DISCONTINUED. It is 3.375"/85.725mm long. It is a rocker stud in the head that I MUST have to get my diesel engine back running. The stud 10mm has 1.5mm threads .625"/15.875mm long on one end with 1.25mm threads 1.5"/38.10mm long on the other end with a NO THREAD area in the middle 1.25"/31.75mm. So far, the two that I have threaded have bent slightly just enough that they WON'T work in the rockers in the engine. I'm NOT giving up because if I don't get one to work my tractor is done. Thanks for your insight that has helped me. Keep your fingers crossed that I can get two made. GOD BLESS SIR!🙏🙏🙏
You kown I've been doing this for years and learn a lot from this little video. Thank you.
Thank you, excellent help. Pleasure to see a skilled machinist teaching.
7:58 is where you just taught me my lesson. I’ve been trying a damn hex die to make the threads.
Thanks for pointing that out. I also have a set of hex chasing dies that I've been using, and had major trouble with cutting.
Same here, got pretty angry trying to figure out wtf was wrong
Literally same thing here. Smh🤦🏾♂️
The hex dies work just fine for making threads - when they are nice and sharp. Been using a set of 3 - 8mm hex dies for years.
Thanks for this very informative video. I learned some things that I didn’t know before. I’m wanting to correctly chase the threads on
1/8-27, 1/4-18 and 3/8-18 pipe in the near future.
Thank you for sharing the knowledge of threading with us
Great video man. Thank you. I really appreciate the instruction and useful tips.
You answered all of my questions except for recommending a cutting fluid. Thanks!
Any cutting oil will do. It's basically just for lubrication.
Thanks again.
Love what I do now but this video made me miss the smell of my old machine shop job.
Thank you for the video.
Thank you!
Do you need a handle on you die stock just to chase threads on lug bolts that are not badly stripped nut just not turning freely ?
Thanks a bunch! Great help for me.
Very well made video, great for beginners.
Thank you.
Thanks for the video. Which Die (unc pitch form can I use on a 3/16” ss round bar ? Thanks in advance.
How many turns can you go and still be able to correct a crooked start ? Example: 15/16 x 18 thread. I made a mess of it
Very helpful. Thank you.
I like the voice mail box at the end of the video with email and all😂
Good instructions, very through..
Great information. Thank you for sharing.
Great video sir!
are the dies marked as to what size they are as you can tell by my question I never did this before trying to make threads on a rod for a hood release
Great explanation and video
Thank you, really helpful 😊
So, is the rod 3/8" diameter or a bit smaller. I've seen a lot of videos on this subject, and no one ever mentions the size of the rod in relation to the size of the die. This would be very helpful for a rookie such as myself. Very clear and to the point tutorial though. Thank you.
Eye ball it. Grind some material off the stock if needed.
In all my years of experience with machines & Repairing equipment of all shapes types and sizes nobody has ever tried to teach me or pass it on to me what die nut to use for a specific job. that's a new one on me. I've been cranking a wrench close to 40 years. guess it's never too late to teach a old dog new tricks... ????
Another old dog here sayin' AMEN!
That's exactly what I did yesterday. I didn't call it anything yesterday lol. I just knew what it was for
hank you kind sir !
What's the largest size rod that can be threaded by hand ?? I need to thread a 5/8" rod to 5/8-18 thread.
I do it al the days i make treads with taps and dies but when I was younger I has a little factory and in this thime I tread on treadrolling machines and that is super faster in 24mm you can it do in 4 seconds that machines was nicely
HI, when I am using a Die to thread a rod i never seam to get the correct diameter in the lathe. where does one find the diameter of the rod for a specific threading Die. An example, the diameter of rod for a 1/4 28 or a 5/8 11 Die? Thank you.
Great video! I do have a question tho. When it says "This side up" does that refer to when you are LOADING the die into the handle or as you are USING it, meaning you would load that side down into the handle?
Kyle Runyan
Refers to what you see when threading. You should see ‘this side up’ while you are cutting threads. Also remember to use lots of cutting oil and go backwards every 1/4 turn or less to release the cut material. Patience is key in using taps and dies. Cheers dude
Hello Machine Tool Etc, Have you (or anybody here) ever put threads on the pointed end of an 8d common nail? Would there be any issues to do so?
when i use the die to make a threaded rod i get a curved-like thread. as if the rod is banana shaped- except its straight, but the threads are sharp on one side and dull on the other side of rod. i have no idea what is causing this, but its fairly often that this happens to me- anyone have any thoughts?
can it be for stainless steel?
I have a metal plate that's 5"x5" 1/8 thick.. with a center hole.. can I thread this plate on to a rod that's 1" in diameter
Are these pieces already heat treated when you thread them?
Thank you
Kinda can't believe I have to watch this for homework. Really good and informative video tho, so thanks for that
Where u from?
I have problems getting short threads straight. They always turn out a little bit angled.
The thread is only about an inch long and when the die is on there, there is barely anything to measure.
Any tips?
I have this problem on all the threads I'm cutting.
Yep, anything without rod straightness guides incorporated in the design are trouble making junk.
I wish this video didnt skip the part where you prepare the rod on the edge before you do this part.
At least he mentioned it. the 1st video I watched did not even elude to it.
Use a flapper disk or a hand file .
Is there a way you can add a pilot with these hand dies to make sure the die is straight?
How much will this tools cost?
Great help, thanks for sharing
great info thank you
This is time consuming for big jobs. Can you use a machine with a die to speed up the task? Thank you great video
Lathe
I was wondering the same thing. You could put your workpiece in a lathe and run it at low speed, but I wonder how you would hold the die? Maybe a big enough chuck in a tailstock could take it? And then hopefully the screw inside the die would be enough to expand it for your first pass, because the die is meant to be used in the stock.
@@godsamongmen8003 You do not use a die with a lathe. Cutting threads on a lathe is an entirely different process from using a die, and is much more complicated. This video shows how to use a die, and that's the long and the short of it. There's really no quicker way to use one.
I can’t find a video on how to keep it from spinning in the vise, I got my fuse so tight I almost bent the handle and the 1/4 round keeps turning in the vise, yeah it’s a weak mill vise but there’s gotta be a a trick to hold it
Well done practicle ability highest form of intelligence
Can you thread plumbing pipes with it?
robalan57 Yes they make both threading and rethreading dies for pipes. These are not identified like normal thread sizes (1/4”-20) but rather in the form of NPT or BPT and other types. If you are in the United States you should look for NPT. For example, a 3/4” NPT die will thread 3/4” nominal pipe.
They make hand threaders for new threads (see RIDGID for example) or rethreading dies for repairing threads (made by Hanson for example).
But if it tilts what would you do?
iv been trying like 10 times threading a metal tube on the inside straight. But always wobbly..
all i did was make my custom bolts thinner...
i did the 45deg taper too. im going to say it was my cheap Chinese solid dies.
I guess I'm pretty well hooped; I spent all my money on hex dies thinkin I could thread what I needed with them, only to find that I have the wrong tools for the job!!
Because they are new and sharp, the hex dies will work just fine. The SECRET IS, to make your own decent sized handles - with a decent GUIDE, to make starting and straightness effortless. I couldn't stand using that junk stuff up above - NO rod guides? - what a joke!.
where can i buy this items?
I'm want to thread a 7/16 O.D. rod do I use a 7/16 Die ? Never use taps or dies.
Yes, use a 7/16" die and be very careful to start it straight.
@@clogsdon0001 Thank you
Can I have your Wilton vise since you're not using it?
I have a question I need to put on a ccw nut so what way does I need to thread the rod then cw or ccw?
You'd have to use a ccw die, and turn it counter clock wise.
What about Warragul does or pipe dies
I want to cut tread on 6.5 mm Hollow pipe
Please help to suggest how to cut it.
Nice video, thanks.
خ
خرااطه
The loosening at 5:45 is unneccessary you can also put the tool on the die
start loosened and gradually tighten through a series of passes
Tightening the split die screw opens it up?
Yes because the thread is on the screw side so screwing it in opens the die. But presumably one should then loosen the screw to get a deeper cut thread on the rod.
@@effinog Thanks
this is twice if had too thread clean rod and every time the treads will start to twist at an angle about 1/3 way down... then it will go straight not sure why. my be too fast or dull cutting dia !!!
What kind off thread is it fine or course threading
At 0:41 you can see the Die was marked 3/8 - 24, which is consider fine threading.
Hello anybody knows what size of die rethreading size of is 7mm outer diameter
Why don't you tell us what size rod and what size dye are you using why do you guys keep it a secret
W R O N G
What size u use m12 ??
Why does that even matter? What a waste of a question.
No question is dumb, only idiots wait in silence.
Can these do left hand threads?
Not with the same die used for right hand threads, but you can buy left hand dies.
Thanks for bad advice - I followed your instructions with the die the wrong way round!!! It's lucky people in the comments section know the right orientation of the die!!
need wd40 while hand threading. it will done the job clearly smooth
no magic tap works best for taps and dies. you cant find a better product.
project farm tested a bunch of various products including wd40.
I have a 11/4 bolt that I'm trying to retread just the very end or top of it
I'm not sure if my set even though it say 11/4 is one that it will do is correct
That's about a $70 die from MSC. Easier if you have a metal lathe to chase the threads back on it.
Boss please I need work
I am learning this as a need for fabricating my own rods to hold bluetooth speakers to my stock BMW R1150RT handlebar. This bike comes with stop fairing mirrors and predrilled holes in the controls brace. By fabricating my own rod I am hoping to use a rod similar to the one used on the GS model mirrors but instead of mirrors they will be die at whatever needs to be to match the socket screw of my speaker. Intuitively doable but had never done anything like this. So your video instructs me in the right direction. Each BT speaker weights about 30 Oz. So weight wise I don’t need heavy duty rod but i figure that because of the air pressure and vibration I need to go a bit “overkill”. Any recommendation (material, diameter and pitch) all welcome
I've been trying this. Couldn't get the thread die started: (I had the starter side in the right side.) So I opened it further. Still no start. So I put more downward force on it. Then the die broke into two parts!
What did I do wrong?
The funny think is: I managed to make the thread with the broken die. It finally opened put far enough to start the thread, and I could still close it in the stock to make the final pass.
You listened to this guy if you did what he did in this video, it's one turn forward and half turn back, always use a cutting compound like oil or whatever, also there are dies that are made of different metals, the main ones are carbon and then there is high speed steel (HSS) , you want them to last, use HSS, use carbon if you don't use it much, lubricate both die and part you're working on, makes things easier, last longer and makes you equipment last too, hope it helps.
@@CHEVI789 thanks for the response, but the problem is that I cannot get it started. Your response doesn't give any insight on how to fix that. All the other stuff you mention: already doing that.
@@jhbonarius , sorry about that buddy, I usually put it on a lathe at a 60 degree pitch but not to a point, sorry it's hard to describe by writing, if you have a lathe as I do, put the work into the lathe if you can, then turn the tool post to 30 degrees ( 90-30=60), take bit by bit off the edge, say 2 millimeters and try that, if not take more off the edge, say 3 millimeters, I've found 3 millimeters works well but depending on the size you might have to take off less or more, if you don;t have a lathe then use a bench grinder, hope it helps.
Hi
*👍супер и привет от тренера по футболу18*
Please explain in Hindi Language
Thank you