Honestly, I've seen enough of those coils die, that swapping the coil from a good cylinder to #7 to see if the problem follows the coil would have been high on my list after verifying everything was reconnected properly and in the correct locations. I believe those early year trucks get pissy if theres a poor ground to the coil pack via the mounting bolt. maybe due to age and fussing around in the engine bay, you disturbed the little connection it had. Could stick a power probe to it while loaded to provide direct ground and see if it improves. Sometimes its easy to look past the simple stuff
Put the hood in service position! That hood can be opened to a full 90° by simple moving 2 bolts. Wouldn't have had to be hunched over so far during intake and blower install. GMT800 Easter egg is hood service position
Run a scanner on it and see how many counts of misfire you’re getting. Had a 6.0 with small crack in exhaust manifold that was barely noticeable unless u were almost against manifold listening . No cel ,good o2 reading, . Kept throwing misfires on 7 and slight across the board on that bank . Welded it up and it cleared out them all . Just a thought
Rich, are we ever going to see the m90 on a 4.3 V6 Vortec? Rich, there is an Astro van or a express van with a 4.3 in it with your name on it at your favorite U pull it.
Richard, Bud, DONT GIVE UP ON THIS!!! I CANNOT WAIT TO SEE this work I have the same truck with a 5.3l59 with AFR heads, truck Norris, Fast intake, 90mm tb, headers, 36lb injr, 4.11 front/rear it screams! Lol
@lifeishard1211 Yep, I have a gen 3 and 5. Not bad until you are bent over front and trying to set them in place. Not bad if you can get in engine bay but mine I couldn't
Maybe your catalytic converter is stopped up and it just won’t flow anymore so the added boost is killed by extra exhaust back pressure and the power to turn the blower?
The 'heatsink' d585 coils have lately become a common problem. I had one turbo truck where 2 weren't firing, and another that literally blew the bottom out as we were warming the truck up prior to tuning. A friend also had them on a 6.2 that blew up, we suspect from 2 firing early due to overheating (self-protection). You'll still get spark, but being so early it either knocks or kills power like it's a dead cylinder.
Champion made a plug cleaning / testing machine back in the 1960's or earlier. There was a spot to screw the plug into then you applied air pressure to see if the plug still sparked when you looked through the little glass window.
I had a "The Other Guys" idea. How about a comparison between a Chevy 265 vs. Pontiac 265. I believe they have the same bore & stroke but I wonder how they'd respond to similar upgrades. I know it's a long shot since they're both ancient engines. Keep up the good work.
Are you confident that the injector plug was making contact with the pins in the injector? Ive seen cheap plugs be janky and have issues making connection with pins. Could pup that rail out and crank it to verify spray out of all injectors
Plus a bad transmission isn’t going to make one cylinder “dead”. I think it has to do with the injector plugs, coil pack or a combination of both. I don’t think it’s a spark plug because they swapped them around. If it were a spark plug then it would’ve followed the plug. The only thing they messed with was the injector plugs and could’ve had a weak coil when it was N/A and ran fine until boost was applied.
Rewatched and saw you addressed most of that stuff I guess the only thing might be a worn seat lifter holding the valve open a bit when pumped up but not at low rpm?
I think it has to do with the injector plug, coil pack or a combination of both on that particular cylinder. I don’t think it’s a spark plug because you said that you swapped them around, correct? If it were a spark plug and you did move them around then it would’ve followed the plug. The only thing you messed with was the injector plugs and it’s possible that you could’ve had a weak coil when it was N/A and ran fine until boost was applied. 2 months later and have you pinpointed the issue?
Sorry if I missed it in the video but what is your cylinder drop test and how did #7 fail said test? Also I think even if one cylinder was down it would still make more power.
A cylinder drop test is more commonly called a power balance test. There are a few different ways to do it but the gist is that, while the engine is running, you deactivate one cylinder at a time by cutting off the fuel and/or spark and seeing what effect that has on the RPM. In a normally operating engine, each cylinder will cause the RPM to drop by the same amount (since they're each equally contributing to the engine running properly). If you have one cylinder that's running poorly and causing your issue, when you deactivate that cylinder the RPM will drop less (or sometimes not at all) compared to the others bc it wasn't contributing as much as the other cylinders were to begin with. So by going through and doing this individually to each cylinder and then comparing them to each other it can help you identify which one is your problem child.
@@nowayjose596 thanks for the comment and explanation, I figured that’s what is was. I do them almost everyday I just never knew that there was a term for it. My favorite is to squirt water on the individual exhaust, or check with an infrared temperature gun. Often times guys will pull a plug wire one at a time and *think* that one makes less of a difference and go chasing a problem that doesn’t exist. Probably I might have even done it…… once
@@baby-sharkgto4902 Yeah I was going to ask how he identified #7 was the issue bc looking at the exhaust temp of each cylinder is also an option but then I heard him say they did a drop test. With some scanners (I know you can with Ford's VCM) it can do the power balance test for you and provide a graph of the results without you even having to leave the driver's seat, which is nice. Then there's no confusion about whether or not one cylinder is really dropping the RPM more compared to others like you mentioned.
Did you see a dramatic difference in required fuel to get the correct AF ratio? If the one cylinder’s coil was trash, that cylinder would skew the AF lean, which might give you a clue when comparing tunes. Just a guess
Maybe blowing out the spark, close the gap and run hotter plugs. 3 bar map install. I haven’t followed the full build, but these things plagued me when I’ve built similar projects.
Id like to put one of these on my 3.5l dodge challenger but i cant find any info on how to do it all mt stock interals are forged so i think it will handle the boost just need to find out how to build the mounting plate
You already know this but yeah, replacing the coil is the obvious next step. I just replaced one on my truck that was having issues intermittently but just not quite bad enough to actually throw a code.
@@thatturbotruck He said they did a compression test and that looked fine, so why would you go on to do a leakdown test in addition to that? Not asking sarcastically, I'm genuinely curious. If you do a power balance test and identify an issue with one cylinder, and then a compression test and that cylinder shows the same compression as the rest, I would move compression to the back of the line as likely culprits and go on to look at fuel and spark. I know a leakdown test can give you more specific information if there IS a problem related to compression, but I can't think of a scenario where it would identify a problem exists (that has been narrowed down to a single cylinder) that a compression test would miss.
@@nowayjose596 what you are saying is in general correct. But I've seen these motors have a slightly leaky valve and produce decent compression test results and test bad on a leak down. This is because a small leak may only be down 8-10psi vs the other cylinders which is acceptable yet when it's running and making 1000+psi when compression occurs that small leak becomes much bigger. It's not a guarantee or anything but a test you can run before spending any money is all. I would typically go for compression test first myself.
@@thatturbotruckThanks for the reply. I agree, if he had a leakdown tester available then while he had the valve cover off would have been an easy time to test that cylinder just to verify.
Hey my brother love your videos! We're you able to test pressure in each cylinder? I had seen in the video that the opening is towards the front. I was wondering if the back cylinders were getting as much air? The censors tell the tail! Most people don't have access to a dyno so man do we appreciate what you do!
Dont recall if you said if you ran a compression test and a leak down test or not ? If fuel isnt the issue or spark ?? then compression from piston /rings or valve leaking possible on mechanical side. We know that it isn't timing causeit was running . Also you dont have a major vacum leak on that cylinder? Dont sound like it? Check cylinder pressure
On my 02 Saturn, I started getting a "cam sensor" code (the engine doesn't have a cam sensor). I found that the back of the coil pack was corroded and losing ground. I removed it and took some sandpaper to it, and the mating surface on the block. this fixed it for 6 months then it came back and kept returning about every 6 months.
Nice truck! We have a 2002 suburban and like it. I wonder if something else is restricting it like the cats having 300000 and flowing enough for stock but not more
I'm sure Mr holdener would have looked in wondering how the number7 plug looked after some pulls? Is that low ram intake wanting to work in a rpm range to high? Still would think with 7 psi it would have made more @@richardholdener1727
@@richardholdener1727 one of the comments mentions that the cylinder could be bad at RPM and not at idle or off. i think you should rev it out to see what pressures that cylinder is making compared to the rest. i have a bad feeling it could be the valves not seating properly at RPM(and then throw boost into the equation which makes it worse) which is why number 7 could probably be roached
Can’t tell you how many times I have seen them seem to run fine NA, and act up under boost. My latest project was nosing over at 6800, and I tried three different sets of coils before getting good ones.
Im struggling to find a camshaft for my 5.9 magnum that is soon to be a 408 stroker. I have a torque storm supercharger and its in a big truck. Id like to have good torque with a choppy idle.
I have a 5.3 in a s10 with a 78/75 vs turbo,sloppy stage 2 cam etc. It also has a #7 missfire and I have changed couls,plugs, wires,injectors and its still there. Sometimes it goes away and then comes back. Very frustrating. I recently pulled the wiring harness and checked it for bad connections and didn't find anything. I am having a issue with water gettung in my gastank that I will be addressing next but not sure that would kill 1 cylinder.
Maybe a MAF disable and a VE tune only would be the way to go. were you maxing out the maf scale with the extra flow? Bc maf takes over at 4k rpm on a factory ecu where you would be making the most power.
Hello Richard! I have a question about an LS7. I’m getting a decent deal on a complete shortblock LS7 and I already have a set of ls3 heads and intake. Would the heads bolt on and not have any issues with Piston to valve clearance? Or would the different valve angle cause issues like premature valve wear? I don’t want to spend more money for a set of “fixed” LS7 heads and intake when I already have the ls3 stuff! Thank you in advance!
Have you tried swapping coils to see if your mis fire moves. Did a small piece of grit get down on the intake valve seat? How many psi boost? Crank pulley same size as one on dyno? Boost leak? Maybe valve seat worn, loosen rocker a bit? That’s all I can think of at the moment ...
So I was thinking about something and not sure if you've done it or not. But what about a test between holley, edelbrock, maybe carter, and Motorcraft carbs to see what actually makes the most power. Everyone has their own brand they like just like ford, chevy, and dodge people. So instead of comparing engines run all the carbs on one engine no matter what brand engine you choose. Carb ls, sbc BBC, sbf, bbf, small block chrysler, big block chrysler, etc. Think it would be a fun comparison that wouldn't take a lot of work
Cyl leak test. Then drop the y pipe to check for bad cats. Did you swap coil with another hole? I think you said you did. I’ve had a good comp test and still failed leak test. It caused a miss under load.
Maybe the added pressure is squeezing things to much for plug to ignite past spark. I had a high compression sbc that would kill spark plugs if it didn’t have enough power for the spark.
Richard, did Ish have a tune in the trans too? I have dealt with controllers that have a torque map or chart, maybe actual torque exceeded what the trans was compensating for according to map?
The lm7 in my turbo s10 had 267k. Went to check ring gap and they were .025-.026 on top and .027 to .028 on the bottom. Slapped em back in and kept the file fit rings for my lh6 lol
@@sons_of_slewfoot_garage back in the '80s when I did small block overalls used to see excessive ring gap but that was mainly due to cylinder wear I seen up to 0.40 ring gap and seen it worse than that but I said it was due to excessive cylinder wear to where the block had to be 40 to 60 over to clean up because it would have a groove off to one side at the top of the bore. I'm going to be honest I've been out of the game for a long while. Just got back in and everything I seen in pictures and video on the new LS and LT motors. They don't have that issue anymore like the sbc. Thank God. The L59 5.3 with 159,000 on it I picked up when I did the tear down the ring gap was top ring was 0.29 second ring was 0.32 and that was pretty much the same across all the cylinders. That was quite a ring gap for a stock motor with that many miles. The rod and main bearings were perfect! So upgraded to Gen 4 rods and upgraded to summit racing forged pistons raising my CP to 10.6 with 243 heads with a new Z06 camshaft and new cam bearings because I looked at them when everybody said don't.
@@richardholdener1727 Rich, I based what I said on when I used to work on SBC back in the '80s. Most of what I saw had excessive cylinder wear causing a large ring gap and the cylinders were kind of oval shaped where they had to be bored to 40 to 60 over to clear it up by then the engine at 60 over pretty much junk for a daily driver. But from what I've seen of the newer engines in pictures and videos like you put out in your videos the engines don't have that excessive wear like the sbc did back in the day. I stopped doing engine work in 1987 it went full-time in the car, audio and security business. That's where the money was at that time everybody had to have the boom in their ride. And nobody was going fast with a 1000 to 1500 lb of car audio in their car or truck. LOL The only drag racing I was doing was drag racing but those days are over. My hearing is screwed so it was time for a change of pace.
Compression test the Cyl to make sure it’s up to snuff could have a burnt valve a tuliped valve or a possible ring issue but I would say you might see smoke if the rings were bad.
My thought on this could be wrong but here it is. Seems like a small hole on that plate for all the open area under the supercharger. Also isn't there problems with them getting hot could solve the hot problem by allowing more air through the plate it's mounted to. I could be wrong but seems to be part of boost problem
a couple thoughts, what was the spark plug gap set to? maybe there was spark blowout if the gap was too big. if there was a dead cylinder the air fuel ratio would have been leaner, what was that banks o2 sensor showing? edit for another question, I don't know what setting torque management should be set to for the engine and transmission but that could also be a factor.
Try that coil pack. But, you really should have got a NA test before taking it apart for the swap. Time schedule being short, I know, kept you from getting it done before. Two years since the last NA numbers is not that good, if you’re saying the engine has 300k on it. You didn’t say if the knock sensors were looked at for pulling timing.
Do a leak down then move forward from there. Once thats sorted get a pressure gauge on the exhaust ,most likely running into extreme backpressure with a cat that old.
RICHARD is it possible y'all had a pinhole boost leak on the intake near that cylinder? Im thinking small enough that you'd still make most of the boost, but big enough to throw the AFR for that cylinder rich? Or potentially maybe you had a pre-02 exhaust leak on that bank? Also maybe you had a loose connection on that cylinder's injectir during the run, or perhaps that adapter is bad? I do think y'all shouldve swapped that coil before you pullet things apart
on the factory 3008 2&3 engines i do belive the mass air fow is in behind the throttle body? its been awhile since i worked on 1 but i think thst part of the reason is youre not pulling enough air past the factory mass air flow? just throwing that out there cause location of that might be part of several issues.
I don’t know how you don’t have more subscribers!! Content is too good!
V mounted Knock sensors could be picking up blower rotors, pulling ignition.
Honestly, I've seen enough of those coils die, that swapping the coil from a good cylinder to #7 to see if the problem follows the coil would have been high on my list after verifying everything was reconnected properly and in the correct locations.
I believe those early year trucks get pissy if theres a poor ground to the coil pack via the mounting bolt. maybe due to age and fussing around in the engine bay, you disturbed the little connection it had. Could stick a power probe to it while loaded to provide direct ground and see if it improves. Sometimes its easy to look past the simple stuff
None of the Gen 3/4 coils ground through the mounting bolts. The coil brackets and valve covers are insulated from ground.....
Every coil that I found bad = we're physically broken or aftermarket.
Put the hood in service position! That hood can be opened to a full 90° by simple moving 2 bolts. Wouldn't have had to be hunched over so far during intake and blower install. GMT800 Easter egg is hood service position
I admire the amount of work you went through to make this video happen.
Run a scanner on it and see how many counts of misfire you’re getting. Had a 6.0 with small crack in exhaust manifold that was barely noticeable unless u were almost against manifold listening . No cel ,good o2 reading, . Kept throwing misfires on 7 and slight across the board on that bank . Welded it up and it cleared out them all . Just a thought
Rich, are we ever going to see the m90 on a 4.3 V6 Vortec? Rich, there is an Astro van or a express van with a 4.3 in it with your name on it at your favorite U pull it.
Dont give up. Power through. Definitely following.
Richard,
Bud, DONT GIVE UP ON THIS!!! I CANNOT WAIT TO SEE this work I have the same truck with a 5.3l59 with AFR heads, truck Norris, Fast intake, 90mm tb, headers, 36lb injr, 4.11 front/rear it screams! Lol
Don't realize how heavy a supercharger is until you have to lift out over the engine to put it in its home.
the gen 5 I just bought weighed like 30 lbs.
@lifeishard1211 Yep, I have a gen 3 and 5. Not bad until you are bent over front and trying to set them in place. Not bad if you can get in engine bay but mine I couldn't
Maybe your catalytic converter is stopped up and it just won’t flow anymore so the added boost is killed by extra exhaust back pressure and the power to turn the blower?
The 'heatsink' d585 coils have lately become a common problem. I had one turbo truck where 2 weren't firing, and another that literally blew the bottom out as we were warming the truck up prior to tuning. A friend also had them on a 6.2 that blew up, we suspect from 2 firing early due to overheating (self-protection). You'll still get spark, but being so early it either knocks or kills power like it's a dead cylinder.
Can’t wait to see what you figure out. Good luck!
Whoa! I thought for sure you were NOT going to stick the landing @ 5:38.
Did you put intake manifold gaskets on? It didn’t look like it..
I didn’t see any intake gaskets go on either.
I saw the same.. but sure didn’t want to be the one who asked!
Did OJ cut the plug wire?
It wouldn't be the first time I've seen a coil spark a plug outside of the cylinder and not wotk under cylinder pressure.
Champion made a plug cleaning / testing machine back in the 1960's or earlier. There was a spot to screw the plug into then you applied air pressure to see if the plug still sparked when you looked through the little glass window.
Fix that thing Richard! Can't leave us hanging??
I had a "The Other Guys" idea. How about a comparison between a Chevy 265 vs. Pontiac 265. I believe they have the same bore & stroke but I wonder how they'd respond to similar upgrades. I know it's a long shot since they're both ancient engines. Keep up the good work.
Are you confident that the injector plug was making contact with the pins in the injector? Ive seen cheap plugs be janky and have issues making connection with pins. Could pup that rail out and crank it to verify spray out of all injectors
Check your spark arc length. I've had coils fail that still sparked. Car made about 50 hp til I changed coil packs
spark plugs and coils? this is quite the pickle you got yourself into richard! cant wait too see the rest of this project!
Richard i love your videos! Have you ever thought about doing a dyno comparison on different turbo compressor housing designs?
Did you check for slippage in the trans., and just in case, did you change the torque management settings in the "ECM/TCM"?
Ish was in the driver seat doing the tuning 100% that’s correctly done
Plus a bad transmission isn’t going to make one cylinder “dead”. I think it has to do with the injector plugs, coil pack or a combination of both. I don’t think it’s a spark plug because they swapped them around. If it were a spark plug then it would’ve followed the plug. The only thing they messed with was the injector plugs and could’ve had a weak coil when it was N/A and ran fine until boost was applied.
Rewatched and saw you addressed most of that stuff I guess the only thing might be a worn seat lifter holding the valve open a bit when pumped up but not at low rpm?
@1:48 I don’t see any intake runner gaskets..
intake gaskets on the Lo Ram are orings in the mating flange
Nimble like a ninja!! 🥷
So silly question, what DID end up being the issue?
Also interested..
Tight converter a possibility?
What is the best air cold intake for yukon 5.3 2008
Volant or S&b or k&n or.........?
Thanks
have not tested those
Check the gasket on the intake to the head on that cylinder
no boost leaks-boost was solid
I dont believe the issue is with the motor
I think it has to do with the injector plug, coil pack or a combination of both on that particular cylinder. I don’t think it’s a spark plug because you said that you swapped them around, correct? If it were a spark plug and you did move them around then it would’ve followed the plug. The only thing you messed with was the injector plugs and it’s possible that you could’ve had a weak coil when it was N/A and ran fine until boost was applied. 2 months later and have you pinpointed the issue?
Sorry if I missed it in the video but what is your cylinder drop test and how did #7 fail said test? Also I think even if one cylinder was down it would still make more power.
A cylinder drop test is more commonly called a power balance test. There are a few different ways to do it but the gist is that, while the engine is running, you deactivate one cylinder at a time by cutting off the fuel and/or spark and seeing what effect that has on the RPM. In a normally operating engine, each cylinder will cause the RPM to drop by the same amount (since they're each equally contributing to the engine running properly). If you have one cylinder that's running poorly and causing your issue, when you deactivate that cylinder the RPM will drop less (or sometimes not at all) compared to the others bc it wasn't contributing as much as the other cylinders were to begin with. So by going through and doing this individually to each cylinder and then comparing them to each other it can help you identify which one is your problem child.
@@nowayjose596 thanks for the comment and explanation, I figured that’s what is was. I do them almost everyday I just never knew that there was a term for it. My favorite is to squirt water on the individual exhaust, or check with an infrared temperature gun. Often times guys will pull a plug wire one at a time and *think* that one makes less of a difference and go chasing a problem that doesn’t exist. Probably I might have even done it…… once
@@baby-sharkgto4902 Yeah I was going to ask how he identified #7 was the issue bc looking at the exhaust temp of each cylinder is also an option but then I heard him say they did a drop test. With some scanners (I know you can with Ford's VCM) it can do the power balance test for you and provide a graph of the results without you even having to leave the driver's seat, which is nice. Then there's no confusion about whether or not one cylinder is really dropping the RPM more compared to others like you mentioned.
Did you see a dramatic difference in required fuel to get the correct AF ratio? If the one cylinder’s coil was trash, that cylinder would skew the AF lean, which might give you a clue when comparing tunes. Just a guess
I just said the same thing, you beat me to it.
different injectors
Super soft springs? Or misfiring constantly?
Maybe blowing out the spark, close the gap and run hotter plugs. 3 bar map install. I haven’t followed the full build, but these things plagued me when I’ve built similar projects.
Id like to put one of these on my 3.5l dodge challenger but i cant find any info on how to do it all mt stock interals are forged so i think it will handle the boost just need to find out how to build the mounting plate
Its that red hose ontop of the supercharger sitting lose boost leak
it goes to the MAP-no boost leak
You already know this but yeah, replacing the coil is the obvious next step. I just replaced one on my truck that was having issues intermittently but just not quite bad enough to actually throw a code.
Leakdown test would be my next step before spending any money. If that checks out then coil.
@@thatturbotruck He said they did a compression test and that looked fine, so why would you go on to do a leakdown test in addition to that? Not asking sarcastically, I'm genuinely curious. If you do a power balance test and identify an issue with one cylinder, and then a compression test and that cylinder shows the same compression as the rest, I would move compression to the back of the line as likely culprits and go on to look at fuel and spark. I know a leakdown test can give you more specific information if there IS a problem related to compression, but I can't think of a scenario where it would identify a problem exists (that has been narrowed down to a single cylinder) that a compression test would miss.
@@nowayjose596 what you are saying is in general correct. But I've seen these motors have a slightly leaky valve and produce decent compression test results and test bad on a leak down. This is because a small leak may only be down 8-10psi vs the other cylinders which is acceptable yet when it's running and making 1000+psi when compression occurs that small leak becomes much bigger. It's not a guarantee or anything but a test you can run before spending any money is all. I would typically go for compression test first myself.
@@thatturbotruckThanks for the reply. I agree, if he had a leakdown tester available then while he had the valve cover off would have been an easy time to test that cylinder just to verify.
we did a compression test
I can't wait to find out what the source of the problem is... You listed everything I would have possibly checked.
Welcome to the real world of being a mechanic! Nice job !
you would have to welcome me 35 years ago
I was a GM tech since 1989. Doing the trouble shooting is the worst.
@@richardholdener1727😂
When will Richard compare that gen 2 lt1 to the ls6 like he said he would which was 2 years ago?
Keep us updated!
I didn't see any intake gaskets when you put the low ram on
o rings on lo ram
Is the trans slipping? I don't think it would still make 7 psi if something was wrong with the motor or the tune.
Exhaust plugged up? Convertor plugged?
we dropped the exhaust to check
@@richardholdener1727 It may seem extreme but you could actually check the exhaust backpressure.
Looking forward to see what the problem is.
Could it be the timing chain?
Did you swap coils with another cylinder? You mentioned injectors and spark plugged being swapped but you didn’t mention swapping coils.
Did you try turning it off and on again?
Have you checked out the Comp Turbo oil less center section turbos?
yes
@@richardholdener1727 🤣 Go or no Go? Haven't seen a video from you on them. But, I haven't seen all your vids either:):):)
maybe that red plug at the back of the intake runner failed and caused a boost leak? or i hate saying it maybe bad tune/ injector timing off?
Hey my brother love your videos! We're you able to test pressure in each cylinder? I had seen in the video that the opening is towards the front. I was wondering if the back cylinders were getting as much air? The censors tell the tail! Most people don't have access to a dyno so man do we appreciate what you do!
Coil, collapsing lifter or weak valve spring. One of the 3 for sure..
Did you change to colder plugs
Dont recall if you said if you ran a compression test and a leak down test or not ? If fuel isnt the issue or spark ?? then compression from piston /rings or valve leaking possible on mechanical side. We know that it isn't timing causeit was running . Also you dont have a major vacum leak on that cylinder? Dont sound like it? Check cylinder pressure
On my 02 Saturn, I started getting a "cam sensor" code (the engine doesn't have a cam sensor). I found that the back of the coil pack was corroded and losing ground. I removed it and took some sandpaper to it, and the mating surface on the block. this fixed it for 6 months then it came back and kept returning about every 6 months.
Nice truck! We have a 2002 suburban and like it. I wonder if something else is restricting it like the cats having 300000 and flowing enough for stock but not more
we tried dropping all the exhaust
That’s what I was wondering, maybe interment firing could.
I heard that in the talk after, hmm that's a head scratcher. @@richardholdener1727
I'm sure Mr holdener would have looked in wondering how the number7 plug looked after some pulls? Is that low ram intake wanting to work in a rpm range to high? Still would think with 7 psi it would have made more @@richardholdener1727
@@richardholdener1727 one of the comments mentions that the cylinder could be bad at RPM and not at idle or off. i think you should rev it out to see what pressures that cylinder is making compared to the rest. i have a bad feeling it could be the valves not seating properly at RPM(and then throw boost into the equation which makes it worse) which is why number 7 could probably be roached
Can’t tell you how many times I have seen them seem to run fine NA, and act up under boost. My latest project was nosing over at 6800, and I tried three different sets of coils before getting good ones.
Use a procharger instead? Or Combination of both?
no need
What's your cylinder compression numbers ? 😮
Maybe the elbow you have on the supercharger is collapsing like on the engine dyno when you first tried to use the elbow an dthe m90
it was-but only at idle
Im struggling to find a camshaft for my 5.9 magnum that is soon to be a 408 stroker. I have a torque storm supercharger and its in a big truck. Id like to have good torque with a choppy idle.
I only see retrofits from Comp that are big enough-maybe another cam manufacturer
Doesn't sound like unscheduled rapid disassembly
I have a 5.3 in a s10 with a 78/75 vs turbo,sloppy stage 2 cam etc. It also has a #7 missfire and I have changed couls,plugs, wires,injectors and its still there. Sometimes it goes away and then comes back. Very frustrating. I recently pulled the wiring harness and checked it for bad connections and didn't find anything. I am having a issue with water gettung in my gastank that I will be addressing next but not sure that would kill 1 cylinder.
Sounded good, and considering you checked just about everything, I wondering if if the Transmission is on the way out the door,
Any versions of doing something like this on a 4.6 or a diy turbo setup
planned
@richardholdener1727 awesome I can't wait!! Love what you did with the cam battle videos
Maybe a MAF disable and a VE tune only would be the way to go. were you maxing out the maf scale with the extra flow? Bc maf takes over at 4k rpm on a factory ecu where you would be making the most power.
Hello Richard! I have a question about an LS7. I’m getting a decent deal on a complete shortblock LS7 and I already have a set of ls3 heads and intake. Would the heads bolt on and not have any issues with Piston to valve clearance? Or would the different valve angle cause issues like premature valve wear? I don’t want to spend more money for a set of “fixed” LS7 heads and intake when I already have the ls3 stuff! Thank you in advance!
Spark plug gap too wide and blowing out under boost maybe?
nope
Good content . Waiting to see what the culprit was
Have you tried swapping coils to see if your mis fire moves. Did a small piece of grit get down on the intake valve seat? How many psi boost? Crank pulley same size as one on dyno? Boost leak? Maybe valve seat worn, loosen rocker a bit? That’s all I can think of at the moment ...
he did swap coils. he did pull valve covers. boost was at normal levels, I think he said 6lbs.
I did not do coil swaps yet
@@richardholdener1727 my apologies.
Did I miss the intake manifold gaskets? My guess it’s has a major vacuum leak
lo ram has o ring gaskets
That bronco tho 😂
So I was thinking about something and not sure if you've done it or not. But what about a test between holley, edelbrock, maybe carter, and Motorcraft carbs to see what actually makes the most power. Everyone has their own brand they like just like ford, chevy, and dodge people. So instead of comparing engines run all the carbs on one engine no matter what brand engine you choose. Carb ls, sbc BBC, sbf, bbf, small block chrysler, big block chrysler, etc. Think it would be a fun comparison that wouldn't take a lot of work
Cyl leak test. Then drop the y pipe to check for bad cats. Did you swap coil with another hole? I think you said you did. I’ve had a good comp test and still failed leak test. It caused a miss under load.
we dropped the exhaust
Sorry if this is a stupid question. Is there any way to put an old school hot rod style blower on a 5.3?
yes-I have a 6-71 LS video up
Where are the intake gaskets at on the heads or intake maybe I missed them some place??🤷♀️🤷♀️🤷♀️
o rings on the lo ram
Maybe the added pressure is squeezing things to much for plug to ignite past spark. I had a high compression sbc that would kill spark plugs if it didn’t have enough power for the spark.
I'd do a re write entire on the tuneup with a charger on it. I've had injectors and o2 sensors go crazy for no reason.
Richard, did Ish have a tune in the trans too? I have dealt with controllers that have a torque map or chart, maybe actual torque exceeded what the trans was compensating for according to map?
Which would cause a slip due to inadaquate line pressure?
Did the trans still have a tps signal? I assume so if you used the stock harness and computer
tps was hooked up-stock throttle body and harness
Did you break a plug/wire with your feet?
never stepped on that side-but replace that side wire
Does the air box flow enough to supply the blower?
we even tried opening it up
I guess at 330,000 mi you don't need to worry about ring gap. It's already self-gapped.
that doesn't happen
The lm7 in my turbo s10 had 267k. Went to check ring gap and they were .025-.026 on top and .027 to .028 on the bottom. Slapped em back in and kept the file fit rings for my lh6 lol
@@sons_of_slewfoot_garage back in the '80s when I did small block overalls used to see excessive ring gap but that was mainly due to cylinder wear I seen up to 0.40 ring gap and seen it worse than that but I said it was due to excessive cylinder wear to where the block had to be 40 to 60 over to clean up because it would have a groove off to one side at the top of the bore. I'm going to be honest I've been out of the game for a long while. Just got back in and everything I seen in pictures and video on the new LS and LT motors. They don't have that issue anymore like the sbc. Thank God. The L59 5.3 with 159,000 on it I picked up when I did the tear down the ring gap was top ring was 0.29 second ring was 0.32 and that was pretty much the same across all the cylinders. That was quite a ring gap for a stock motor with that many miles. The rod and main bearings were perfect! So upgraded to Gen 4 rods and upgraded to summit racing forged pistons raising my CP to 10.6 with 243 heads with a new Z06 camshaft and new cam bearings because I looked at them when everybody said don't.
@@richardholdener1727 Rich, I based what I said on when I used to work on SBC back in the '80s. Most of what I saw had excessive cylinder wear causing a large ring gap and the cylinders were kind of oval shaped where they had to be bored to 40 to 60 over to clear it up by then the engine at 60 over pretty much junk for a daily driver. But from what I've seen of the newer engines in pictures and videos like you put out in your videos the engines don't have that excessive wear like the sbc did back in the day. I stopped doing engine work in 1987 it went full-time in the car, audio and security business. That's where the money was at that time everybody had to have the boom in their ride. And nobody was going fast with a 1000 to 1500 lb of car audio in their car or truck. LOL The only drag racing I was doing was drag racing but those days are over. My hearing is screwed so it was time for a change of pace.
Compression test the Cyl to make sure it’s up to snuff could have a burnt valve a tuliped valve or a possible ring issue but I would say you might see smoke if the rings were bad.
compression test was done
My thought on this could be wrong but here it is. Seems like a small hole on that plate for all the open area under the supercharger. Also isn't there problems with them getting hot could solve the hot problem by allowing more air through the plate it's mounted to. I could be wrong but seems to be part of boost problem
The opening in the pate is larger than the opening in the bottom of the blower
Sweet bronco!
Have you ever turbocharged a dodge 5.9 magnum
I want to see a big bang video on the aluminum blocks only how much can they really take and what breaks?
a couple thoughts, what was the spark plug gap set to? maybe there was spark blowout if the gap was too big. if there was a dead cylinder the air fuel ratio would have been leaner, what was that banks o2 sensor showing? edit for another question, I don't know what setting torque management should be set to for the engine and transmission but that could also be a factor.
Possible leak, intake or exhaust side?
no boost leaks
plastic plug blow out on the intake ? doubt it would take much pressure to do that.
I wondered that too at first but he says it’s making 7 lbs
plug is secured in with a bolt-no boost leaks
Try that coil pack. But, you really should have got a NA test before taking it apart for the swap. Time schedule being short, I know, kept you from getting it done before. Two years since the last NA numbers is not that good, if you’re saying the engine has 300k on it.
You didn’t say if the knock sensors were looked at for pulling timing.
i would say just a good tune up and it should be ok, what about knock sensors pulling timing?
Hi MR Holdener my question is can you use a high performance chip in OEM to adjust tuning
the older chip ECUs could be programmed with timing and fuel changes via changing the chip
Do a leak down then move forward from there. Once thats sorted get a pressure gauge on the exhaust ,most likely running into extreme backpressure with a cat that old.
we dropped the exhaust
RICHARD is it possible y'all had a pinhole boost leak on the intake near that cylinder? Im thinking small enough that you'd still make most of the boost, but big enough to throw the AFR for that cylinder rich? Or potentially maybe you had a pre-02 exhaust leak on that bank?
Also maybe you had a loose connection on that cylinder's injectir during the run, or perhaps that adapter is bad? I do think y'all shouldve swapped that coil before you pullet things apart
no boost leak
Leak down test?
Was there lower intake gasket?
o rings on the lo ram
on the factory 3008 2&3 engines i do belive the mass air fow is in behind the throttle body? its been awhile since i worked on 1 but i think thst part of the reason is youre not pulling enough air past the factory mass air flow? just throwing that out there cause location of that might be part of several issues.
the factory MAF on the truck is in its factory location
Happy Birthday
Bad blower actuator? Boost gauge showing boost? 2000 L did the same...
it had boost
Im planning on doing a m112 on 6 to 7psi should i gap the rings or send it?
gap or take a chance