May i ask why ur seatbelt and airbag on? I wana know i got a long stupid story and want more info to pin point the problem that was before another problem that occurred
It took a while to figure out but was the clock spring circuit that failed. You'll have to check your seatbelt circuits, airbag and clockspring. It could also be the airbag module itself. I show how to fix it here: th-cam.com/video/_K9EA79MLpY/w-d-xo.html
Sometimes those valves give no error codes sadly, while the flaps are not functioning correctly. Only way to be sure is to pull them out and do the actuation test and physically look and confirm, that the valves fully close and open.
Yes, very true. I had one code for disa and I cleared it, then it only came back once. I think the flap breaks and then the shaft can turn freely again so the ECU thinks "the disa flap is turning" so there's no problem and it doesn't give you the code anymore. Good point.
Very concerned. I thought it may have damaged a valve or something. Since it was so small and plastic, I assume it went through the engine with no problems. Im glad I caught the problem early.
I recently bought a 135k 328i, and I noticed a few crackling sounds during acceleration. From your videos, it might just be the Disa valve, but mines an N51
Maybe a bit late to the party but the oil in the intake indicates either a bad/worn CCV or a CCV without heater hoses. Sitting for a longer period of time, then starting will cause oil in the intake on the N52 as well. Usually a bad CCV works it's way down the line and kills the DISA valves too.
Also pothole damage is known for killing the CCV and DISA valves so if your bmw has been crashed or damaged in some way it's very recommended to just outright replace these parts even if they aren't immediately showing problems, because they probably will.
Obd2 cable for BMWs. depending on which model bmw you have, you need to get the right cable. Some cars have the dcan bus system you need to be able to integrate with.
@@buildanddriveI changed my disa valve, and I’m still having the rough idle. Even though that was the issue, the disa was literally broken. What do I do?
My n52 clicks sort of like a clock every other second. I only notice it at idle when I'm outside the car, would it be this? I'm at 266k miles. Kind of sounds like an electric motor is stuck and its trying to move every other second.
@@buildanddrive yea i found it! I wiil try to find the plastic pin but if i dont find it inside the intake manifold then I dont know where it can be. I think the pin has been loose like 2000km so I dont think that im going to find it but I still want to try.
Don't bother , the plastic pin has been sucked in engine , this happen to me , but the engine is running normal that means the pin was melted and gone into exhust , luckly this disa has plastic pin if it was metal I was screwed@@rassez1253
Hello ! I have a problem, i repaired my disa valve and i installed it on my car.I checked the disa valve with the inpa and it is working but when i start the engine the flap it doesn’t close. What to do to fix this ? Thank you!
@@buildanddrive do you have any videos of how to reset adaption only for disa? P.S. I found that it is working in reverse, when engine starts the valve is open when I rev the engine the valve is closing … I could installed the valve wrong ?
@@buildanddrive I founded the problem, I didn't know that the actuator of the disa valve have a single position and if you reverse it will open the valve when it should close. Thank you for your answer!
i removed disa valve and its open ( there is no play or broken ) is it consider bad ..? e90 2010 325i , the car has rough idle at start and loosing power not picking the way it should
Do you have the intake with 2 disa valves? Do you have the same error codes I am getting? If it's stuck open, then you'll have full power after 4k rpm but no low end torque.
Les comparto mi experiencia y solución: Tengo un BMW 530i (E60) con motor n52... Todo comenzó con el clásico chillido que hace el vehículo cuando la válvula pcv está dañada, así lo dejé pensando que era alguna polea, le cambié la banda y la polea loca y el chillido seguía, otro síntoma es que el vehículo de la nada se me apagaba, y comence a notar que el consumo de gasolina no era el óptimo, lo volvía a encender y andaba de nuevo, después hice la prueba con el motor encendido intentaba quitar el tapón del aceite y era tanta la succión que a veces ni siquiera lo podía quitar, lo que me llevó a la conclusión de que la válvula pcv estaba dañada... Después cambie la pcv (en estos motores se cambia la tapa de punterías completa, ya que la pcv viene integrada a la tapa), y asunto arreglado, se quitó el chillido y dejó de apagarse de la nada, hasta aquí todo bien.... Pasó el tiempo y noté que el consumo de gasolina estaba muy elevado y el carro comenzó a hacerme otros síntomas, ralentí inestable, y cuando el motor caía a las 600-700 rpm, el coche comenzaba a vibrar, pero era una vibración excesiva en general, adentro se escuchaba demasiado, el volante, tablero, el habitáculo vibraba mucho y sentí que el carro tenía pérdida de potencia, Check engine encendido con código de falla 2AA9, pero ojo!!, Primero lo escanee con un escáner clásico, actron sencillo y no arrojaba código, hasta que le metí un escáner más completo y con este si lo arrojó, por lo que recomiendo que lo escaneen con el mejor posible... Después quité las 2 válvulas disa y sorpresa!, todo el colector de admisión tenía residuos de aceite, quite el sistema de admision, le hice su limpieza, probé las disa y estaban atascadas, las abrí para checarlas por dentro y que creen?...la disa primaria tenía ya el motor oxidado y con residuos de aceite, le hice su limpieza y volvió a la vida!, pero la secundaria estaba inundada de aceite! Y la tarjeta electrónica que lleva se estropeó, solo pude rescatar la disa primaria, así que preferí comprar las 2 disa usadas en buen estado y originales, que nuevas genéricas... Después hice las pruebas para checar las válvulas, es importante que hagan la prueba de esta manera: coloquen las disa usadas en su lugar pero sin conectar, teniendo las disa nuevas afuera, les puse sus conectores para poder observarlas, eché a andar el vehículo y la primaria cerró por completo y se mantuvo cerrada en ralentí (así debe ser), y la secundaria cerró entre las 3500 y 4500 rpm (así debe ser también), y dependiendo las rpm están abriendo y cerrando todo el tiempo, por lo que concluí que estaban en perfecto estado, ya solo armé todo nuevamente y asunto arreglado, el coche anda perfecto, y ya no tiene ningún síntoma que les mencioné, le borré el código y ya no apareció más.. En conclusión, cuando noten el primer síntoma o que la pcv comienza a dar problemas, no duden en cambiarla inmediatamente!!, esto les evitará problemas con las disa y créanme, les ahorrará bastante tiempo y dinero (disa nuevas, gasto de gasolina innecesaria, sensores, etc)... Si en algo les puedo colaborar, estoy a la orden, saludos!
Thanks for the information. My fuel consumption is a bit higher than normal now. I suggest also smoke testing the engine to find where the air is leaking from. I made a video and will try this again.
@@buildanddrive turns out i had a 330i manifold on my 328i so i got the wrong manifold which didnt have the 2 orange sensor wire plugins so i ordered a 330i one and it should be running after that
Looking for help, I had a code related to tank ventilation, I changed the part but after a month it came back again with code related to tank ventilation, this is the second time changing that part in a month,I don't know what could be happening, I always use gasoline 93.
Yep, but I didn't want to pay an insane amount of money. Funny thing is, the seals in this Chinese part failed after a year. I had idle issues and had to silicone it 😆
![How To Replace The Crankcase Ventilation Valve [CCV or PCV] On A BMW N52 Engine (E90, E91, E60)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mZRf6R7-zws/mqdefault.jpg)
May i ask why ur seatbelt and airbag on? I wana know i got a long stupid story and want more info to pin point the problem that was before another problem that occurred
It took a while to figure out but was the clock spring circuit that failed. You'll have to check your seatbelt circuits, airbag and clockspring. It could also be the airbag module itself. I show how to fix it here: th-cam.com/video/_K9EA79MLpY/w-d-xo.html
Sometimes those valves give no error codes sadly, while the flaps are not functioning correctly. Only way to be sure is to pull them out and do the actuation test and physically look and confirm, that the valves fully close and open.
Yes, very true. I had one code for disa and I cleared it, then it only came back once. I think the flap breaks and then the shaft can turn freely again so the ECU thinks "the disa flap is turning" so there's no problem and it doesn't give you the code anymore. Good point.
this is very true. BOTH my disas are broken and the motor is not able to turn the flaps, yet my car does not throw any codes at all.
We’re you concerned at all that the pin snapped? It did on mine too and people say that it might end up in the engine
Very concerned. I thought it may have damaged a valve or something. Since it was so small and plastic, I assume it went through the engine with no problems. Im glad I caught the problem early.
Excellent content, where did you access inpa from?
Search for 'mikes easy bmw tools' and see if it works for you. Been a few years since I had to install it.
Great video
Merci jeffrey
Only the 3 stage manifold has the disa valves ?
2 stage manifold also has 1 disa valve on the outer side
I recently bought a 135k 328i, and I noticed a few crackling sounds during acceleration. From your videos, it might just be the Disa valve, but mines an N51
Does it sound similar to the video?
@@buildanddriveYes, sounds quite similar. But feels more like a slight crackle which gets better after the engine is hot
Maybe a bit late to the party but the oil in the intake indicates either a bad/worn CCV or a CCV without heater hoses. Sitting for a longer period of time, then starting will cause oil in the intake on the N52 as well.
Usually a bad CCV works it's way down the line and kills the DISA valves too.
Also pothole damage is known for killing the CCV and DISA valves so if your bmw has been crashed or damaged in some way it's very recommended to just outright replace these parts even if they aren't immediately showing problems, because they probably will.
Didnt know about the pothole thing. CCV failed every 2 years so yes, eventually it killed both DISA valves.
What code reader do you use? regular OBD or something specially for BMW
Obd2 cable for BMWs. depending on which model bmw you have, you need to get the right cable. Some cars have the dcan bus system you need to be able to integrate with.
Hi, do you need to “teach” the new Disa after change, or you just change it and then it’s finish?
You just change it. I think It automatically does a check when you start the car. If there is a problem, it throws a code
@@buildanddriveI changed my disa valve, and I’m still having the rough idle. Even though that was the issue, the disa was literally broken. What do I do?
@@jasan-xq2lk check my channel for a smoke test. Find the air leaks in your intake/engine
Czy można jeździć z odłączoną dużą disą
My n52 clicks sort of like a clock every other second. I only notice it at idle when I'm outside the car, would it be this? I'm at 266k miles. Kind of sounds like an electric motor is stuck and its trying to move every other second.
Can you send me a video on Instagram?
Please share the link for the DISA valve you purchased!
No, the seals in this disa valve failed after a year. Get a mahle or valeo part instead if you really want to keep the car a long time
@@buildanddrive How do you find out which brands are OEM?
Normally Valeo or Malhe are OEM spec
I have same issue. Is it bad if i dont find the plastic pin. It can be in intake manifold. Do I need to take intake manifold off and try to find it?
If you want to, did you find the flap at least?
@@buildanddrive yea i found it! I wiil try to find the plastic pin but if i dont find it inside the intake manifold then I dont know where it can be. I think the pin has been loose like 2000km so I dont think that im going to find it but I still want to try.
Don't bother , the plastic pin has been sucked in engine , this happen to me , but the engine is running normal that means the pin was melted and gone into exhust , luckly this disa has plastic pin if it was metal I was screwed@@rassez1253
what brand did you buy? I might modify flaps instead since DISAS so expensive so better buy DIY flaps kit from US or Ukraine :)
Yes, you can buy the kit with the long metal pin and rebuild it. The brand was some Chinese brand off eBay.
Hello !
I have a problem, i repaired my disa valve and i installed it on my car.I checked the disa valve with the inpa and it is working but when i start the engine the flap it doesn’t close.
What to do to fix this ?
Thank you!
Maybe reset disa adaptations in inpa
@@buildanddrive do you have any videos of how to reset adaption only for disa?
P.S. I found that it is working in reverse, when engine starts the valve is open when I rev the engine the valve is closing … I could installed the valve wrong ?
@@buildanddrive I founded the problem, I didn't know that the actuator of the disa valve have a single position and if you reverse it will open the valve when it should close.
Thank you for your answer!
i removed disa valve and its open ( there is no play or broken ) is it consider bad ..? e90 2010 325i , the car has rough idle at start and loosing power not picking the way it should
Do you have the intake with 2 disa valves? Do you have the same error codes I am getting? If it's stuck open, then you'll have full power after 4k rpm but no low end torque.
Check for vacuum leaks. If your car isn't using properly, that's the first step th-cam.com/video/_5Sbz818YVI/w-d-xo.html
@@buildanddrive i will replace those valves today and will let you know the codes
bcz i am getting bunch of codes now 🤭
2AAE, 29E1, 2AAC,2AA8,2AA9
Nice video 📹 👍
Thanks Omar! 🙏🏽
Les comparto mi experiencia y solución:
Tengo un BMW 530i (E60) con motor n52...
Todo comenzó con el clásico chillido que hace el vehículo cuando la válvula pcv está dañada, así lo dejé pensando que era alguna polea, le cambié la banda y la polea loca y el chillido seguía, otro síntoma es que el vehículo de la nada se me apagaba, y comence a notar que el consumo de gasolina no era el óptimo, lo volvía a encender y andaba de nuevo, después hice la prueba con el motor encendido intentaba quitar el tapón del aceite y era tanta la succión que a veces ni siquiera lo podía quitar, lo que me llevó a la conclusión de que la válvula pcv estaba dañada...
Después cambie la pcv (en estos motores se cambia la tapa de punterías completa, ya que la pcv viene integrada a la tapa), y asunto arreglado, se quitó el chillido y dejó de apagarse de la nada, hasta aquí todo bien....
Pasó el tiempo y noté que el consumo de gasolina estaba muy elevado y el carro comenzó a hacerme otros síntomas, ralentí inestable, y cuando el motor caía a las 600-700 rpm, el coche comenzaba a vibrar, pero era una vibración excesiva en general, adentro se escuchaba demasiado, el volante, tablero, el habitáculo vibraba mucho y sentí que el carro tenía pérdida de potencia, Check engine encendido con código de falla 2AA9, pero ojo!!, Primero lo escanee con un escáner clásico, actron sencillo y no arrojaba código, hasta que le metí un escáner más completo y con este si lo arrojó, por lo que recomiendo que lo escaneen con el mejor posible...
Después quité las 2 válvulas disa y sorpresa!, todo el colector de admisión tenía residuos de aceite, quite el sistema de admision, le hice su limpieza, probé las disa y estaban atascadas, las abrí para checarlas por dentro y que creen?...la disa primaria tenía ya el motor oxidado y con residuos de aceite, le hice su limpieza y volvió a la vida!, pero la secundaria estaba inundada de aceite! Y la tarjeta electrónica que lleva se estropeó, solo pude rescatar la disa primaria, así que preferí comprar las 2 disa usadas en buen estado y originales, que nuevas genéricas...
Después hice las pruebas para checar las válvulas, es importante que hagan la prueba de esta manera: coloquen las disa usadas en su lugar pero sin conectar, teniendo las disa nuevas afuera, les puse sus conectores para poder observarlas, eché a andar el vehículo y la primaria cerró por completo y se mantuvo cerrada en ralentí (así debe ser), y la secundaria cerró entre las 3500 y 4500 rpm (así debe ser también), y dependiendo las rpm están abriendo y cerrando todo el tiempo, por lo que concluí que estaban en perfecto estado, ya solo armé todo nuevamente y asunto arreglado, el coche anda perfecto, y ya no tiene ningún síntoma que les mencioné, le borré el código y ya no apareció más..
En conclusión, cuando noten el primer síntoma o que la pcv comienza a dar problemas, no duden en cambiarla inmediatamente!!, esto les evitará problemas con las disa y créanme, les ahorrará bastante tiempo y dinero (disa nuevas, gasto de gasolina innecesaria, sensores, etc)...
Si en algo les puedo colaborar, estoy a la orden, saludos!
Thanks for the information. My fuel consumption is a bit higher than normal now. I suggest also smoke testing the engine to find where the air is leaking from. I made a video and will try this again.
Gracias Excelente información
Can someone tell me how i can get this inpa diagnose ? 😊
Google mikes bmw tools install
Do you know where the 872-405 A wire goes and the 7507524.9 I've been having trouble finding the place to plug it in
Can you send me a photo on Instagram?
@@buildanddrive turns out i had a 330i manifold on my 328i so i got the wrong manifold which didnt have the 2 orange sensor wire plugins so i ordered a 330i one and it should be running after that
Where did you get your Inpa program from?
Google mikes bmw tools and you'll need to buy a obd2 cable.
So it’s not supposed to have play at all right
None
Looking for help, I had a code related to tank ventilation, I changed the part but after a month it came back again with code related to tank ventilation, this is the second time changing that part in a month,I don't know what could be happening, I always use gasoline 93.
What's is the code?
@@buildanddrive 2A1A- TANK VENTILATION FUNCTION.
From my experience generic Disa valve is a bad idea. It's better to buy a used original part with the updated (latest) part number.
Yep, but I didn't want to pay an insane amount of money. Funny thing is, the seals in this Chinese part failed after a year. I had idle issues and had to silicone it 😆
🎉
💪🏽