I like the performance of Lupo batteries, but it is a pain to find ones that fit in the older RCs, and even some newer vintage style ones. I made a video a long time ago about the different size, shape, weight, and types of batteries. They should really have some kind of standard sizes. And yeah, Gartpot? 😂
Nice! The translucent yellow tape is kapton tape, I use that to insulate/protect the smaller packs after decasing them, heat shrink looks heaps better though. 👍
I always thought it was mylar tape. I was going to insulate the ends more with some electrical tape, then the shrink wrap, but I think this is good enough. It's just big enough to not bounce around too. If anything, I can use some foam tape to fill in space if needed. I got so frustrated trying to fit batteries in older vintage cars, I don't know why I didn't do this sooner! Thanks for watching!
Yeah, definitely... I've seen people cut into their battery holders, and modify the cars...this makes more sense to me. So I get better performance, and the car stays intact. It's a win win!
@@UncleBobsRC I would agree if this was going in one of my Arrma RCs, but the vintage ones are lightly run...it should not be an issue. To get a shorty lipo in both my JRX2 and JRX-T I have to modify the mounts, cut into the graphite...or have to buy something 3D printed. You saw how it was mounted in the hard case...it would be prone to most of the same things in the case. I'm very careful how I charge/store/handle my lipo batteries. I have heard too many horrible stories from other people in the hobby.
There are so many better options than this. First option is a correct size hardcase stick pack. Intellect makes stick packs in various lengths, their 3800mah pack is only 132mm long which will fit in anything. Most Tamiya racers use the CoreRC 4000mah battery as it's 136mm long. Or get a soft pack. RC cars is the only hobby that uses hard case looks, so there are many more options in soft case batteries around 4000 to 5000mah, just make sure they have a high enough discharge rate. If you are going to make your own soft packs, I would suggest strips of plastic sheet, such as styrene or polycarbonate, around the sides of the cells before covering in the heat shrink to give some protection to the cells.
I appreciate the input, but it is the height of the packs not the length that is the issue. Also I have so many batteries...different brands, different ratings, different sizes...none of them fit. The point was to come up with a cheap solution using an existing pack. Why spend the money on another battery when I can do this. This worked for me so I thought I would share it. Also, there is already mylar tape on the ends protecting the contacts. The shrink wrap should be good enough since I won't be bashing these cars. There are plenty of options yes, but this one was the best for me.
Nice tip! I am still a dinosaur and running Nimh packs in most of mine! LOL! I do love the odd names of some of these companies as well!
I like the performance of Lupo batteries, but it is a pain to find ones that fit in the older RCs, and even some newer vintage style ones. I made a video a long time ago about the different size, shape, weight, and types of batteries. They should really have some kind of standard sizes. And yeah, Gartpot? 😂
Nice! The translucent yellow tape is kapton tape, I use that to insulate/protect the smaller packs after decasing them, heat shrink looks heaps better though. 👍
I always thought it was mylar tape. I was going to insulate the ends more with some electrical tape, then the shrink wrap, but I think this is good enough. It's just big enough to not bounce around too. If anything, I can use some foam tape to fill in space if needed. I got so frustrated trying to fit batteries in older vintage cars, I don't know why I didn't do this sooner! Thanks for watching!
Great video. Time to do some surgery. Lol
Yeah, definitely... I've seen people cut into their battery holders, and modify the cars...this makes more sense to me. So I get better performance, and the car stays intact. It's a win win!
Now you have a soft case, fire hazard, more prone to hard knocks, jolts and swelling, lipo... I say, use a 2S shorty pack, if you can..
@@UncleBobsRC I would agree if this was going in one of my Arrma RCs, but the vintage ones are lightly run...it should not be an issue. To get a shorty lipo in both my JRX2 and JRX-T I have to modify the mounts, cut into the graphite...or have to buy something 3D printed. You saw how it was mounted in the hard case...it would be prone to most of the same things in the case. I'm very careful how I charge/store/handle my lipo batteries. I have heard too many horrible stories from other people in the hobby.
There are so many better options than this. First option is a correct size hardcase stick pack. Intellect makes stick packs in various lengths, their 3800mah pack is only 132mm long which will fit in anything. Most Tamiya racers use the CoreRC 4000mah battery as it's 136mm long.
Or get a soft pack. RC cars is the only hobby that uses hard case looks, so there are many more options in soft case batteries around 4000 to 5000mah, just make sure they have a high enough discharge rate.
If you are going to make your own soft packs, I would suggest strips of plastic sheet, such as styrene or polycarbonate, around the sides of the cells before covering in the heat shrink to give some protection to the cells.
I appreciate the input, but it is the height of the packs not the length that is the issue. Also I have so many batteries...different brands, different ratings, different sizes...none of them fit. The point was to come up with a cheap solution using an existing pack. Why spend the money on another battery when I can do this.
This worked for me so I thought I would share it. Also, there is already mylar tape on the ends protecting the contacts. The shrink wrap should be good enough since I won't be bashing these cars. There are plenty of options yes, but this one was the best for me.