@@troyswarts7353 yes sir, pros do it after every race at the track, super handy how they designed these motors for the purpose. Thanks for watching, I appreciate you!
The book mentions flatness spec for the metal plates... That's also important to measure and make sure within spec. If out of spec it will cause clutch drag.
Ima sub this dude. He’s so true he picked for gold and didn’t give a fuk about it. Haha love it. Good video bro. This helped me remember which way the plates go back in. Thanks and hop to see your next vid soon buddy!
I ran a set of plates for 120 hours, of course it was a mix of tracks and desert free riding. It’s not uncommon if you shift correctly and limit clutch in that it last for a long time. Worst thing on a clutch is using it when not necessary. Learning to shift correctly, with and without the clutch is key to long clutch and engine life. I use Rotella T4 15w-40 and it’s all I use in all my bikes. As long as it has no friction modifiers, your 10W-30 will be fine:
Not really, most fibers and steels have a tapered or sharp edge on the outside, and I try to keep it consistent on them facing the same direction as I talk about in my video.
When I pull my clutch in there is no roaring but if I let it out in neutral I hear a good bit of roaring should I look into the push rod bearing? Where is a good place to start thank you
I would pull the clutch apart and check the basket for wear. Those YZ's are famous for a bit of clutch noise at idle. If it performs well and you have no other issues, give it a quick look and see if anything looks off. I doubt the push rod bearing is the issue, but again give it a look. Thanks for watching, hope you come out good.
Hello I have a question, I took out my plates and springs the other day , I have a 2008 ktm 200 xcw the book says the springs should be 39 mm or 40 new, all the springs I took out were 35mm. So I took off the basket filed it a little and I think I will get a new tusk clutch kit. I’ve already rebuilt slave and master cylinder’s so I’m thinking someone put in wrong springs and it might work. What say you Thanks for reading.
Hello! So I have a 2012 CRF 250R the issue I am having is when I put the bike in 1st it’ll wanna move with giving it any gas and then it’ll die. When I pull the clutch lever in I can see the pressure plate move. I have not taken the clutch plates apart yet I plan on to. Do you think it’s more than likely bad plates or worn out cable? When I’m riding the clutch sometimes seems to not engage or have to hit the sweet spot for it to shift
Cable adjustment is an easy fix, nickel in between the lever and perch. More than likely you have a grooved basket or issues otherwise with the inner hub and plates. Most times the basket grooves and clutch won’t disengage, causing the issues your describing.
New to dirt bikes glad I found your channel. Love the video.
Nice, glad it’s helping you out. Reach out if you need anything and glad to here we have another guy shredding!!!
Didn’t know you could do this without drawing oil, great video helps a lot for someone like myself that hasn’t done this before.
@@troyswarts7353 yes sir, pros do it after every race at the track, super handy how they designed these motors for the purpose. Thanks for watching, I appreciate you!
Just had to replace both inner basket and outer basket cause they were grooved so badly! Great Video man! Clutch looks fantastic for that many hours!
Thanks dude, your bike is gonna be so smooth with those new parts. Huge difference!
The book mentions flatness spec for the metal plates... That's also important to measure and make sure within spec. If out of spec it will cause clutch drag.
Right you are sir! Warped plates are no good and cause friction when disengaged. Thanks for the tip!!!
Wow just what i needed, great video. Gonna check the clutch on my ‘18 wr250f. Hope you keep up the dirtbike videos! Super helpful! Thanks!!
You’re welcome, and yes I will once I’m done sledding! Thanks for watching and let me know how it checks out!
Very helpful Thankyou!
Thanks Payton, I appreciate the feedback and glad to help!
Great Job, Bro. I guess you can do the same Check without drawing the oil on a 2 Stroke, correct?
@@FamousLive11 yes sir, the exact same way. Thanks for watching!
@@DanMX2112 Mostly appreciated
Ima sub this dude. He’s so true he picked for gold and didn’t give a fuk about it. Haha love it. Good video bro. This helped me remember which way the plates go back in. Thanks and hop to see your next vid soon buddy!
Thanks for the sub, glad you got help from it bro!
I use regular 10*30 oil q
I have yz125 2003 an i have new clutch plates 6 months ago 80 hours how long do they last?? Will clutch slip
I ran a set of plates for 120 hours, of course it was a mix of tracks and desert free riding. It’s not uncommon if you shift correctly and limit clutch in that it last for a long time. Worst thing on a clutch is using it when not necessary. Learning to shift correctly, with and without the clutch is key to long clutch and engine life. I use Rotella T4 15w-40 and it’s all I use in all my bikes. As long as it has no friction modifiers, your 10W-30 will be fine:
Does it matter about the way the fibers go in or are they all the same on a new clutch
Not really, most fibers and steels have a tapered or sharp edge on the outside, and I try to keep it consistent on them facing the same direction as I talk about in my video.
When I pull my clutch in there is no roaring but if I let it out in neutral I hear a good bit of roaring should I look into the push rod bearing? Where is a good place to start thank you
I would pull the clutch apart and check the basket for wear. Those YZ's are famous for a bit of clutch noise at idle. If it performs well and you have no other issues, give it a quick look and see if anything looks off. I doubt the push rod bearing is the issue, but again give it a look. Thanks for watching, hope you come out good.
Hello I have a question,
I took out my plates and springs the other day , I have a 2008 ktm 200 xcw the book says the springs should be 39 mm or 40 new, all the springs I took out were 35mm. So I took off the basket filed it a little and I think I will get a new tusk clutch kit. I’ve already rebuilt slave and master cylinder’s so I’m thinking someone put in wrong springs and it might work.
What say you
Thanks for reading.
I will always say run spec, so replace and run what KTM says. When in doubt, use manufacture specs.
Hello! So I have a 2012 CRF 250R the issue I am having is when I put the bike in 1st it’ll wanna move with giving it any gas and then it’ll die. When I pull the clutch lever in I can see the pressure plate move. I have not taken the clutch plates apart yet I plan on to. Do you think it’s more than likely bad plates or worn out cable? When I’m riding the clutch sometimes seems to not engage or have to hit the sweet spot for it to shift
Cable adjustment is an easy fix, nickel in between the lever and perch. More than likely you have a grooved basket or issues otherwise with the inner hub and plates. Most times the basket grooves and clutch won’t disengage, causing the issues your describing.
A little Zmax ?
Haha, YZ450F