Was recommended this video by a friend. Very nice overview of the multiple print types and methods showing the weaknesses of the materials and such. Much appreciated brother!
I just printed the STL you have linked to Printables, and it came out great. Bambu Lab X1-C, 0.4mm SS nozzle, textured PEI plate, Esun PLA+, 100% infill with the rectilinear infill, I up my temp of PLA to ~223C-226C, normal supports, and SLOW IT DOWN TO HALF SPEED. Mine came out perfect. All GPIO, D-pad, etc, all excellent. I had to change the orientation to have the most surface area in contact with the build plate, but ~2 hours later it was done.
Hi MT, I had not seen this, I assume you're referring to the one at this link: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5812963/files ? Not sure, but I am curious too, so I have downloaded the files and will try them out. But initial look at them in the slicer, they look identical to the ones on Printables that I tried in the video, same dimensions, even the orientation is the same.
So I printed the thingiverse version with what I had in the printer already, ABS. Printed at a diagonal (about 45 degrees) for bot top and bottom whihhc produced a much nicer print. The print does have some dimensions that appear to be marginally larger, but I can't test fit the flipper because I have a wrung screw (which happened in my video) that just will not come out now. So if someone else can print it and test fit maybe we can get a definitive.
also, jurgen's 'model' is of a flipper prototype that flipper inc released the design for, sizing is off in quite a few places including i button pin placement
Was recommended this video by a friend.
Very nice overview of the multiple print types and methods showing the weaknesses of the materials and such.
Much appreciated brother!
@HotelHero Thank you, great to know it was helpful.
I just printed the STL you have linked to Printables, and it came out great. Bambu Lab X1-C, 0.4mm SS nozzle, textured PEI plate, Esun PLA+, 100% infill with the rectilinear infill, I up my temp of PLA to ~223C-226C, normal supports, and SLOW IT DOWN TO HALF SPEED. Mine came out perfect. All GPIO, D-pad, etc, all excellent. I had to change the orientation to have the most surface area in contact with the build plate, but ~2 hours later it was done.
good video, but your bambu labs needs to be recalibrated. out of the box, it should print better than the MK3.
im not sure if you noticed or not but your I button pins broke off when you were pulling apart the case😬
Hi, do you think the stl available on thingyverse for resin prints would fit properly? Ive heard resin curing can cause some shrinking. Thank you!!
Hi MT, I had not seen this, I assume you're referring to the one at this link: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5812963/files ?
Not sure, but I am curious too, so I have downloaded the files and will try them out. But initial look at them in the slicer, they look identical to the ones on Printables that I tried in the video, same dimensions, even the orientation is the same.
So I printed the thingiverse version with what I had in the printer already, ABS. Printed at a diagonal (about 45 degrees) for bot top and bottom whihhc produced a much nicer print. The print does have some dimensions that appear to be marginally larger, but I can't test fit the flipper because I have a wrung screw (which happened in my video) that just will not come out now. So if someone else can print it and test fit maybe we can get a definitive.
should have printed my one ;) just sayin'
also, jurgen's 'model' is of a flipper prototype that flipper inc released the design for, sizing is off in quite a few places including i button pin placement
I want to sell My flipper zero
Sorry, I didn't think the video was that bad... 😉
@@T8Maker 🤔
Only Flipper? Not printers etc.? ;)
@@T8Maker love the video and the struggle. :) It actually does motivate me as I know not always you have to succeed. :D
@b3k thank you for the feedback, glad the video was useful. I had contemplated not uploading, but I thought it’s no harm to share what I learned.