I did my 100 series LC front rotors/bearings/races/axle flange over Thanksgiving. I used many of your techniques. The job was long… but successful. Thank you for posting such useful information.
Happy to see you posting videos again! I drive an 80, but I find myself watching all your videos. Gleaned more than a few useful nuggets/general tip and tricks.
Thanks for sharing the tip on setting the inner torque. As a 100 Series owner, who likes to do my own work, I really appreciate all your content! I’m in Richmond and coming up on 285k.
Great to see you back in action. The best explanation of the processes involved and the seating of the bearings tension that I've seen. I did this process to my own 100 series a few years ago and still learnt a little more for next time. You should come to Australia someday, absolute heaven for Land Cruisers. We'd love to see you here.
That was nice. I've been chasing a pulsation on my lx470 (series 100) front brakes and now I'm reasonably sure the issue is what you illustrate around 9:10 - my hub and rotor did not come apart anywhere nearly as easily as yours (and I suspect those dings were from separating at the previous replacement); I didn't consider that aspect of ensuring the planarity of the two mating surfaces during re-assembly, but am going to revisit and check the rotor with a dial indicator again, and perhaps also the hub, before pulling it apart. But I strongly suspect this is the continued source of my problem. It was too easy to just think, OK, I replaced the rotors, now what? :)
16:30 Would be nice to add the FSM method and torque specs on-screen Seems its at this part of the process everyone has "thier own way" 😉 In saying that, it seems to work for them... I kinda like the feel method as the grease is a variable... Nice Video once again
I've never actually done the FSM method so I wouldn't be comfortable doing it in video. Unfortunately with copyrights on the FSM I can't add the pages in either.
@@OTRAMM They just provide Torque Specs and use a simple Fish Scale or Pull Gauge as you mention to measure the pre-load force from a wheel stud to create rotation of the assembly. As per 2ndgearlow video for the same job 😊
Great video. I can understand changing break pads and rotors due to wear, but what necessitates changing the calipers? What kind of wear are they subjected to?
Great videos, thank you for the time and effort. Ive done this a couple time on my 100 and always used the factory anti-squeak shims with CRC Disc Brake Quite goo in between pad/shim/piston. I see you did neither and wondering why? I prefer your way!
Up until recently we'd never had a noise issue using just the pads alone. Seems the pad formulation has changed and we're having issues with squeaks now. Testing out using the shims.
To replace a wheel stud, do I just slip it in from behind while I’m replacing my rotor and pads? I haven’t taken it apart yet to see for myself. Also, replacing parking brake shoes would be helpful :)
Excellent as always. Glad to hear the Napa calipers are a good option for the 100 series! Any OEM parts used for the brakes, or do the aftermarket parts work well in your experience? Thanks again!
What a pain that you have to take the bearings apart just to do a brake job. My Chrysler minivan the rotors come right off the hub and you leave the bearings alone.
Is there anything similar to Pelican Parts for the Land Cruiser world? I'm a new 100 series owner and DIY mechanic. After 7 years of driving a mid-90s BMW, I can say that while actually working on Toyotas is easier, the process of inventorying the parts needed and ordering them is much more difficult. Sites like Pelican Parts have thorough walkthroughs for common maintenance jobs and conveniently list all the parts and tools needed. I just haven't found anything like it for Toyota/Lexus. Please help.
Thanks for the great video, 2 questions 1) is there a recommended interval for replacing the front calipers (or why didn’t you reuse existing) 2) is it generally recommended to replace inner/outer bearings ‘while you’re in there’ and if so - what brand do you recc? Thanks!
No real mileage on calipers. They get replaced when they start leaking or sticking. You save labor doing the wheel bearings at the same time. We usually use Koyo but Timkens work too.
@@OTRAMM thanks! Great video, knocked it out over the weekend. First side took forever as I figured it out, 2nd side much faster. Knowledge = power = speed. My hub was corroded to old rotor, had to press it apart. One detail question - do you grease the new/fresh caliper pins or no? Thank again, if I lived anywhere close I'd happily bring the 100 to you (Seattle area)!
@@OTRAMM one more question - i apologize but the details are critical, and being a weekend warrior I want to make sure I'm all dialed in correctly. I noticed additional brake pad hardware installed on my old pads, which I threw away (pad shim kit/unsure of term/name?). I noticed in the video you do not install this additional hardware on the new pads, you just installed fresh pins, pin retainer wire/clip, and retaining/anti-rattle clips. So my question is, what purpose does the additional/optional pad hardware kit serve, and why didn't you include those on your install?
@mchestnut45 the shims help with keeping noise down. Aftermarket pads generally include them but the factory pads don't. In the past we left the shims off since they're quite expensive on their own. We've recently started using them. Pad formulations changed and have gotten noisier. We used to never see noise issues. We've been seeing them enough lately that the cost of the shims now makes sense.
I am getting ready to put love to my 04 100 with 200k. I am ging t replace the the rubber brake hoses but when do ypu change the calipers? Thanks Michael
I did my 100 series LC front rotors/bearings/races/axle flange over Thanksgiving. I used many of your techniques. The job was long… but successful. Thank you for posting such useful information.
Happy to see you posting videos again! I drive an 80, but I find myself watching all your videos. Gleaned more than a few useful nuggets/general tip and tricks.
It’s good to see you back in action Ryan/OTRAMM TEAM.
Thanks for sharing the tip on setting the inner torque. As a 100 Series owner, who likes to do my own work, I really appreciate all your content! I’m in Richmond and coming up on 285k.
Great to see you back in action. The best explanation of the processes involved and the seating of the bearings tension that I've seen. I did this process to my own 100 series a few years ago and still learnt a little more for next time. You should come to Australia someday, absolute heaven for Land Cruisers. We'd love to see you here.
I want some kangaroo meats please 🙏
😢ee
Editing is top notch! Thanks for posting and keeping us on the road
That was nice. I've been chasing a pulsation on my lx470 (series 100) front brakes and now I'm reasonably sure the issue is what you illustrate around 9:10 - my hub and rotor did not come apart anywhere nearly as easily as yours (and I suspect those dings were from separating at the previous replacement); I didn't consider that aspect of ensuring the planarity of the two mating surfaces during re-assembly, but am going to revisit and check the rotor with a dial indicator again, and perhaps also the hub, before pulling it apart. But I strongly suspect this is the continued source of my problem. It was too easy to just think, OK, I replaced the rotors, now what? :)
Thanks!
Mate if followed your tutorial and also did the bearings/races. Thanks for the info 😎👍
Coming from LC100 owner: thank you!💪
Thank you for all the great details & helpful information! Great to see you again, take good care Brother! 👍
Thanks a lot for the video and all the efforts you put in it. Though nothing special, it,s pleasure to watch
16:30 Would be nice to add the FSM method and torque specs on-screen
Seems its at this part of the process everyone has "thier own way" 😉
In saying that, it seems to work for them...
I kinda like the feel method as the grease is a variable...
Nice Video once again
I've never actually done the FSM method so I wouldn't be comfortable doing it in video. Unfortunately with copyrights on the FSM I can't add the pages in either.
@@OTRAMM They just provide Torque Specs and use a simple Fish Scale or Pull Gauge as you mention to measure the pre-load force from a wheel stud to create rotation of the assembly.
As per 2ndgearlow video for the same job 😊
I would like to have seen the bleeding performed.
Great informative video - thank you!
That's a really helpful video thankyou!
Looking forward to this 😊
Perfect video. Doing today...
great job 👍🏻
Great video. I can understand changing break pads and rotors due to wear, but what necessitates changing the calipers? What kind of wear are they subjected to?
The piston seals wear out and leak, or the bores get corroded and the pistons get stuck.
@@OTRAMM Thank you for responding and for that explanation. 🙏
Great videos, thank you for the time and effort. Ive done this a couple time on my 100 and always used the factory anti-squeak shims with CRC Disc Brake Quite goo in between pad/shim/piston. I see you did neither and wondering why? I prefer your way!
Up until recently we'd never had a noise issue using just the pads alone. Seems the pad formulation has changed and we're having issues with squeaks now. Testing out using the shims.
To replace a wheel stud, do I just slip it in from behind while I’m replacing my rotor and pads? I haven’t taken it apart yet to see for myself. Also, replacing parking brake shoes would be helpful :)
Excellent as always. Glad to hear the Napa calipers are a good option for the 100 series! Any OEM parts used for the brakes, or do the aftermarket parts work well in your experience? Thanks again!
For pads and rotors we almost always go oe Toyota. I've used EBC a few times for more stopping power but they don't last as long.
It's amazing you didn't drop the F word..
Gotta keep it PG for the videos. This job went smoothly. There are some that take creative editing😃
Thank you, useful video. Was it my imagination, or did you not put anti-scrip plates? Or are they not needed?
Ty
What a pain that you have to take the bearings apart just to do a brake job. My Chrysler minivan the rotors come right off the hub and you leave the bearings alone.
good job
Thank you ❤️
Is there anything similar to Pelican Parts for the Land Cruiser world?
I'm a new 100 series owner and DIY mechanic. After 7 years of driving a mid-90s BMW, I can say that while actually working on Toyotas is easier, the process of inventorying the parts needed and ordering them is much more difficult.
Sites like Pelican Parts have thorough walkthroughs for common maintenance jobs and conveniently list all the parts and tools needed. I just haven't found anything like it for Toyota/Lexus. Please help.
Cruiser Outfitters and Slee offroad are likely the closest you'll get to Pelican
This would be the same for the 105 Landcruiser too..? Cheers from 🇦🇺
I'm not sure. We didn't get the 105 here
Thanks for the great video, 2 questions 1) is there a recommended interval for replacing the front calipers (or why didn’t you reuse existing) 2) is it generally recommended to replace inner/outer bearings ‘while you’re in there’ and if so - what brand do you recc? Thanks!
No real mileage on calipers. They get replaced when they start leaking or sticking. You save labor doing the wheel bearings at the same time. We usually use Koyo but Timkens work too.
@@OTRAMM thanks! Great video, knocked it out over the weekend. First side took forever as I figured it out, 2nd side much faster. Knowledge = power = speed. My hub was corroded to old rotor, had to press it apart. One detail question - do you grease the new/fresh caliper pins or no? Thank again, if I lived anywhere close I'd happily bring the 100 to you (Seattle area)!
@mchestnut45 I don't grease the caliper pins. I just clean them real well.
@@OTRAMM one more question - i apologize but the details are critical, and being a weekend warrior I want to make sure I'm all dialed in correctly. I noticed additional brake pad hardware installed on my old pads, which I threw away (pad shim kit/unsure of term/name?). I noticed in the video you do not install this additional hardware on the new pads, you just installed fresh pins, pin retainer wire/clip, and retaining/anti-rattle clips. So my question is, what purpose does the additional/optional pad hardware kit serve, and why didn't you include those on your install?
@mchestnut45 the shims help with keeping noise down. Aftermarket pads generally include them but the factory pads don't. In the past we left the shims off since they're quite expensive on their own. We've recently started using them. Pad formulations changed and have gotten noisier. We used to never see noise issues. We've been seeing them enough lately that the cost of the shims now makes sense.
I am getting ready to put love to my 04 100 with 200k. I am ging t replace the the rubber brake hoses but when do ypu change the calipers? Thanks Michael
We change the calipers when they leak, or more commonly when they stick and you start getting a pull and uneven pad wear.
Great video! I heard that 100 series pads will fit on a 96 80 series without issue. Can you confirm this?
It's been hit and miss. We've seen them be a bit too tight. We generally don't do that swap.
Good to know, thanks!@@OTRAMM
Best videos
You don't need to bleed brakes when changing pads?
Not if you don't open the lines.
Awesome. I always like to put a little anti-seize on those brake pins. It helps for the next time. What is your preferred way to bleed brakes?
We use a pressure bleeder along with the factory scan tool.
Hey Otramm what happen to the ABS sensor?
What do you mean? Never touched the sensor. It stays in the knuckle.
Ok I see now
Luv your videos
Ati uitat sa indoiti aripile sigurantei la a doua piulita !😉
Nope they're bent